My new build wont power on all I hear is a few high pitch sounds coming from what I think is the psu.
SSD 128GB SAMSUNG 850 Pro
1TB HDD (from previous build it was working fine 2 days ago)
2TB HDD(from previous build it was working fine 2 days ago)
GPU = GTX 680 2GB (from previous build it was working fine 2 days ago) MSI GTX 970 GAMING 4G GeForce GTX 970 4GB 256-Bit on it's way in the mail.
Case is pretty old and doesnt have a lid but it was working fine with my pervious buid)
PSU = CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750W ATX12V v2.31/ EPS12V v2.92 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC High Performance Power Supply (from previous build it was working fine 2 days ago)
Heatsink = Scythe Ashura Universal Processor Cooler
CPU = Intel Core i7-4790K Haswell Refresh Quad-Core 4.0GHz
Motherboard = MSI Z97-Gaming 7 Intel Z97 Motherboard
Memory = CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory
Please help me
I recommend downloading and running Reimage. It's a computer repair tool that has been proven to identify and fix many Windows problems with a high level of success.
I've used it in the past to identify and fix everything from blue screens (BSOD's), ActiveX errors, corrupt files and processes, dll/exe/sys errors, recover lost memory, Windows update problems, defragging, malware removal etc.
You can download it direct from this link http://downloadreimage.com/directdownload.php. (This link will automatically start a download of Reimage that you can save to your computer.)
Disconnect everything except the monitor, cpu, ram. In fact, go down to 1 stick of ram. Will it POST now?http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/new-build-wont-power-on.206021/
Power outage due to storm. Came back on without pictures and documents. It's an HP desktop. Would a file recovery program work? I've tried some of the instructions online, but they don't work.
Oh mary; I feel your pain. Were the pics within one folder and now they're ALL missing?
My laptop wont power on at all.
No charge light.
No light when power is pressed.
Was working fine yesterday.
Have tried battery and charger from identical working laptop to no avail.
Any ideas? I can usually fix laptops etc but if it wont power on at all I'm lost.
Did you try removing the battery and AC adapter and holding down the power button for 30 seconds. Then re-installing the battery and try booting again?
Hello I am new to building the pcs so I am afraid I may have fried mine I really am pry I did not but this is what happened I finish tower Power will not work button My the pc and My tower Power button will not work when I turned on the power supply the power button on the motherboard glowed so then I pressed my tower button and nothing worked so then I re setup he F PANEL cords u know the pwr switch and all that jazz turns out it was set up wrong so I put them in right and tried to turn on the computer again the power button on the motherboard turns on but not my towers power button and so my pc will not officially turn on I am guessing and I am worried that I may have fryed my pc because when I took out the f panlle cords I realized my pc was still on and turned it off immanently and I am afraid that may have fryed the motherboard if anyone can help me it would be wonderful I am freaking out and have no Idea what the problem thank you for reading P S My tower button does not making a clicking sound when you push it I am not sure if that normal or it is broken or somthing it just doesnt make any click sounds nbsp
You could have a defective power switch on the PC case. Test this by using the reset switch as a temporary power switch. The power switch and the reset switch are the same for practical purposes except, of course, the size of the button (on most cases). If the reset switch works and is able to start the PC, then you know the power switch is defective.
I have an older eMachines Desktop PC model EL1360G which has a 200 watt power supply.
I would like to upgrade it to at least a 400 watt power supply.
Does anyone have a suggestion as to where or what I should buy? I watched a few videos on youtube on how to do the replacement but how do I know all the plugs on the new unit are the same and will fit? Because if they don't, I'll be more confused than I already am.
Check and make sure all the connectors are the same as the ones you have
I'm not certain if the image above is what you have but I'm thinking it is.
Image above looks to have:
1x 20pin+4pin (ATX Power)
1x 4pin (P4)
2x SATA power
Does your power supply have these and only these?
Lenovo's VP of Design, David Hill, wants to create a new ThinkPad laptop that is heavily inspired by the old-school designs of popular ThinkPad laptops from the IBM era, stretching as far back as 1992.
I used to use one of those old IBM Thinkpad laptops at around that time and I thought it was the coolest thing ever even if it was terribly slow, weighed almost a ton, had a crappy pixelated display (~2ppi it seemed) and was about a metre thick. I loved it.
Hello TS! I have come here today because I am looking for feedback on a budget build for my friend. His price range is preferably $600-700 but he can go as high as $800ish. This is what I have put together so far: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/9R7gcf
I originally went with a 250GB SSD and 8GB of RAM but he thought it was too little (I was thinking external HDD+250GB). Also what is the consensus here about an i3 versus the 860K? I am thinking the quad core is better over the dual core. Also, should the cost savings from the above questions be translated to a better GPU? Finally, I read online that a 450W PSU wasn't gonna cut it so I upped it to a 750W (same price as 650W after rebate)?
Thanks for the help in advance!
He will be primarily playing DOTA 2 (eSports) and CS:GO (leisure).
Edit/Note: I will also be posting this on Tom's Hardware to get as many opinions as possible, so don't be offended D) if you see it on there!
First I have built a nice system using that board; it was great to work with. Newegg.com has this motherboard and that cpu as a special combo for $133.00.
Second, if that is all he is doing with his system that AMD cpu will do him just fine. i3 is an Intel cpu and when using Intel the unwritten rule is that the i5 quad core is the sweet spot for gaming. But, again, that AMD is quite fine.
Why 16 gigs of RAM? If he was doing video rendering or using intense graphic software I could see it but 8 gigs is very good for gaming. Save money and get only 8 gigs.
Corsair makes great power supplies; good choice.
I really don't know that gpu but from the specs and for what he is doing, again, it will do everything he needs.
I don't know that case. With that motherboard I used the Cooler Master HAF 912. Good room, well built, and plenty of air flow especially with an AMD because they can run hot. You may want to get some extra case fans. Also, perhaps an aftermarket cooler.
Hi guys, new here...I'm setting up a new pc, sooo a few questions here.
I'm planning on getting an Asus A88XM-plus motheboard, Amd X4 860K cpu and Sapphire R9 280 3GB video card...so how much power supply would be enough...450-500W?..would 650 be an overkill? Is all of this fully compatible?
Do I need a sound card, modem or special cooling or something? ( I already have 2*8gb Ram sticks and HDD, don't really need DVD drive).
I'm also thinking in between Antec 902 V3 case and a lot cheaper LC Power Gaming 975b Air wing Midi...how much quality difference is there in between these two?
Also, how much improvement is there in between this card and my current one, sapphire r7 265 2gb?
Are there anything that you would exchange for something else...I'm on a tight budget, but I don't mind spending a few extra bucks if it be worth in the long run.
Thanks in advance.
My Asus Q550LF crapped out on me. I was browsing when a whole bunch of black rectangles appeared on my screen, about an inch long. I restarted my computer thinking it just froze or something. I could occasionally get to the desktop page if I unplugged the charger but now it doesn't even turn on. It'll make one beep when I push the power button but that's it. What might the issue be and is it gonna be expensive? Because this computer has been one of the worst I have ever owned and I would just scrap it or something if it might end up being costly.
How old is it? It sounds like it could be a multiple of hardware failures including the motherboard. The black rectangles sounds like what we call video card artifacting which means the video card is dying. But the fact that it is not even booting up could point to a failed hard drive. Again, it could be anything.
Asus is known for poor customer service but you could try giving them a call.
Do you know anyone who can do some diagnostics on it? I certainly would be checking out the hard drive.
Hi All I m planning to build my first ever desktop since my laptop is already having problems and I think it s going to die soon I m going to use the computer mainly for doing D digital artworks editing videos as well as playing games specifically MMORPGs and some like PC First Overclocking) (NO Advice Need Build Gaming Alice Madness amp Skyrim I ll be playing the heavier games on the console so no need to have a monster pc I just First Gaming PC Build Need Advice (NO Overclocking) want something that would accommodate my main use and last First Gaming PC Build Need Advice (NO Overclocking) me a while before I would have the need to upgrade again I also have a budget that I have to stick to I live in the Philippines so it will be Php - Php in USD I think it would be around - As stated above I won t be doing any overclocking whatsoever Here are the specifications of the build I was planning CPU Intel Core i - Processor M Cache up to GHz Motherboard Asus H -PRO GAMER VideoCard EVGA GeForce GTX Ti Superclocked Memory Vengeance Low Profile GB Dual Channel DDR Memory Kit CML GX M A C Storage Samsung GB EVO quot SATA SSD Storage Western Digital Caviar Black TB quot RPM Power Supply Seasonic X W Gold CPU Cooler Cooler Master Seidon V Hybrid Optical Drive ASUS D ST BLACK X SATA Case Obsidian Series D Mid-Tower PC Case Case Fan Scythe Kaze Jyuni PWM mm rpm CFM x Since this is a first opinions are greatly appreciated I m open for First Gaming PC Build Need Advice (NO Overclocking) suggestions if you think there are better parts that should replace the ones listed It would also be very nice if it would be cheaper without losing the performance and quality Thanks in advance nbsp
I'm planning to build my first ever desktop since my laptop is already having problems and I think it's going to die soon...
I'm going to use the computer mainly for doing 2D digital artworks, editing videos as well as playing games, specifically MMORPGs and some like Alice Madness & Skyrim.
I'll be playing the heavier games on the console so no need to have a monster pc.
I just want something that would accommodate my main use and last me a while before I would have the need to upgrade again.
I also have a budget that I have to stick to. I live in the Philippines so it will be Php 50,000 - Php 55,000 , in USD I think it would be around $ 1000 - $ 1200.
As stated above, I won't be doing any overclocking whatsoever.
Here are the specifications of the build I was planning.
CPU: Intel® Core? i5-4690 Processor (6M Cache, up to 3.90 GHz)
Motherboard: Asus H97-PRO GAMER
VideoCard: EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti Superclocked
Memory: Vengeance® Low Profile ? 8GB Dual Channel DDR3 Memory Kit (CML8GX3M2A1600C9)
Storage: Samsung 120 GB 840 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM
Power Supply: Seasonic X650 650W 80+ Gold
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Seidon 120V Hybrid
Optical Drive: ASUS24D3ST BLACK 24X SATA
Case: Obsidian Series® 450D Mid-Tower PC Case
Case Fan: Scythe Kaze Jyuni PWM 120mm, 1300rpm, 74CFM (x3)
Since this is a first, opinions are greatly appreciated. I'm open for suggestions if you think there are better parts that should replace the ones listed. It would also be very nice if it would be cheaper without losing the performance and quality.
Thanks in advance!Click to expand...
What programs do you specifically use for video editing and such?
Also a couple of notes:
1: That PSU is a bit overkill for that build or most builds. I would suggest a Gold Rated 550Watt as being a cheaper better option for you.
2: Save a couple of bucks and grab a Western Digital Blue 1tb HDD or a Seagate Barracuda 1tb HDD. WD Black HDD's are awesome but generally they are a bit more for not much of a difference overall.
Can you link the site from which you are ordering your parts from?
Hi guys I m planning to build my first ever gaming PC I do not know that much about specs and all of that The computer is going to be need first PC for advice build ever my I used for indie games like The Escapists Gmod KSP Pixel Piracy etc heavy games like Skyrim Tomb Raider The Witcher etc and also games like Lichdom Battlemage and Hearthstone It has to be able to play the heaviest games at a consistently high framerate at least - I also own a PS which will be used to play games that are consolebased like ACU horrible game BTW and console exclusive games like Bloodborne Since this is my first ever PC build I want it to last long I won t be doing any overclocking it scares me Therefore I will also be able to pay about I don t know about this pricetag because I don t know how the US taxes and Denmark where I m from has a very large tax I will also be able to pay more than this but I seems right Here are the components that I was planning to use Can you give me some feedback Are there any of these things that won t fit together is I need advice for my first ever PC build something overkill underkill I won t I need advice for my first ever PC build pay for a high end GPU if I have a low end CPU Things have to fit together CPU Intel Core i - Processor M Cache up to GHz GPU GTX Gaming G - MSi MotherBoard Z Gaming - MSi I know nothing about motherboards Memory HyperX Fury Black Series GB x GB Again I know nothing about RAM Storage SAMSUNG EVO MZ- E B AM quot GB SATA III Storage Seagate Barracuda ST DM TB RPM Power Cooler Master G M Would this be enough or would it be overkill CPU Cooler Stock Once again I don t know if this is enough but I am not going to OC sooo Would liquid cooling make sense or should I invest in a stronger cooling unit DVD writer ASUS DVD-Writer Black SATA Model DRW- F ST Case Cooler Master HAF Advanced A case has to be stylish This looks okay and there seems to be room for everything Do I have to buy better fans or are the stock ones good enough Please give me some feedback I really need it to be confident with my PC build If I don t get to know more about this I will have to buy a pre-build PC from another pro company nbsp
Hi. First, I am not sure you are aware of it but right now Newegg.com has a three combo special that includes your processor, motherboard, and memory that will save you $42.00. So you can rest assured what you listed with those items will work well.
1. The i5 is considered by many to be the sweet-spot for gaming. Good choice.
2. HyperX memory is made by Kingston and they manufacture excellent RAM and have for years.
3. That motherboard is a BEAST. Do you need everything/will you utilize everything that it offers?
4. I would just get a stronger cooling unit.
5. Check out Western Digital's Black series for hard drives in the 7200 rpm models.
6. Couldn't say about the psu; I usually use the Corsair line. Whatever you choose seriously consider either the Gold or Plantinum Plus certification. 650 watts of power would probably do you but research how much power that video card demands and what the manufacture recommends.
As for the case, the last four systems I have built have all been encased in the Cooler Master HAF series. I absolutely love them for air flow and build quality but make sure that you purchase a an additional side fan and top fan for greater air flow. Here is a good rule to keep in mind: Between the inflow of air or its exhaust, exhaust is the more important. I would get a 120mm size fan for the side and blow in and a 140mm side for the top as exhaust.
I want to suggest that you seriously consider getting the bigger brother of the 912. I found that the 912 is excellent for the micro-ITX boards but for me personally it seems a little cramped for the standard ATX boards -- though I have done it without issue. Look at the HAF 922 which is a mid-tower but with tons of room; I have one for my main rig. There is the full tower 932 but that is probably overkill.
Hope this helps.
Microsoft showed off a whole range of new PCs and devices running Windows 10 at Computex 2015, but one that really caught the eye is the Quanta Compute Plug, an entire PC integrated into a power plug the size of...
They may be handy to a lot and even have very reasonable prices but I can't imagine myself ever wanting any of these.
Hi, Guys (And Gals) I'm attempting my 1st PC build and HAVE used the various online power supply calculators... however I'd like to hear some feedback from you all. No matter where I look online I always like to come here to be sure. My specs for the build are as follows:
MoBo: GIGABYTE GA-F2A68HM-H FM2+ USB 3.0 MATX
Amd A6 5400K 3600Mhz Blk Edt 1mb 65w Socket FM2
Video Card: XFX RADEON R7 240 2GB DDR3 LOW PROFILE
RAM: ADATA XPG V1 DDR3 1600 4GB
HDD: Seagate 1TB Serial ATA HD 7200/64MB/SATA-6G
I would really like to use one of the 350W or 400W power supply I stripped from my previous PC's. I'm thinking of hooking it to an HDMI or VGA projector eventually though (Haven't bought it yet) Can I get away with one of these and play a game like World of Warcraft? or do I need to order something like the
SolidGear 650W PS2 ATX Power Supply on Tiger Direct?
Thanks in advance for any advice & thoughts
Over engineer the PS;
Calculate the actual needed power,
add a fudge factor and
multiply by 1.5.
Then round up to the next commonly available size
Is this a good build to play newer shooter games and games like the witcher 3
Any recommendations for better parts this will cost $473 is budget is 500
Compatibility Check: No issues/incompatibilities found
AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor
$96.93 $96.93 OutletPC
Cooler Master RR-HT2-28PK-R1 54.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
$15.99 $15.99 SuperBiiz
MSI 760GMA-P34(FX) Micro ATX AM3+ Motherboard
$54.99 -$10.00 $44.99 Micro Center
$10.00 mail-in rebate
Mushkin Essentials 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
$50.99 FREE $50.99 Newegg
Add Additional Memory
Western Digital RE3 750GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
$28.01 $3.99 $32.00 Amazon
Add Additional Storage
Gigabyte Radeon R9 280 3GB WINDFORCE Video Card
$179.99 -$20.00 $2.99 $162.98 Newegg
$20.00 mail-in rebate
Thermaltake Commander MS-I ID ATX Mid Tower Case
$47.99 -$15.00 $32.99 Micro Center
$15.00 mail-in rebate
EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply
$36.99 $36.99 SuperBiiz
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/92ZHZL
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/92ZHZL/by_merchant/
CPU: AMD Athlon X4 860K 3.7GHz Quad-Core Processor ($72.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper TX3 54.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($17.22 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock FM2A88X Extreme4+ ATX FM2+ Motherboard ($76.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($60.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.75 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon R9 285 2GB WINDFORCE 2X Video Card ($162.98 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($29.99 @ NCIX US)
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-05-31 08:39 EDT-0400
Hello pc builders, I'd like to ask for some advice on building a gaming pc. I've picked out some parts that I think are good, but I do not know that much about custom building computers and what parts are most suitable for gaming.
I'm trying to keep the price limit at $1000 USD. Here are the parts that I've picked out.
CPU: Intel Core i5-4570 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: MSI Z97-GAMING 7 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
HDD: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card
Power Supply: Corsair CX 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
Case (probs doesn't matter) Cooler Master Storm Scout 2 Advanced ATX Mid Tower Case
Looks like a nice build to me
I would drop the cpu down to this
and upgrade the gpu to this
Here's the situation. I have this old mITX computer I built a few years ago that I'd like to hook up to Dad's big-screen TV so he can Skype from his living-room. Problem is, the computer is VGA only and his TV is HDMI only. The MoBo has just one PCI (not PCIe) slot with a maximum output of 75watts.
I tried a PCI video card with HDMI output, but the slot couldn't drive the card. Didn't even detect it.
I believe DVI uses less power (the cards are definitely cheaper), and I could just use a simple DVI-to-HDMI cable. A native HDMI port would be better. As long as it works, I don't care. But w/o an external power input, the card can't draw more than 75watts from the PCI slot.
Anyone know of a card that fits this very specific bill? Thx.
ADDENDUM: PC only has a tiny 300watt PSU.
Check this one out: Zotac GeForce GT 610
It is a PCI Card (non express) that has DVI / VGA / HDMI. It is also a Low Profile and requires a 300w power supply or higher. It looks like it should work with your situation.
Hello its my first post!
Well anyways I just build my first ever pc using tutorials like (Austin Evans) well I build it turned it on, and all the fans would work then right after stop! Sometimes I get one bleep from the psu, What should I do as im really annoyed as I spent hours do this!
Since you say the machine tries to boot, I'll assume the front panel connectors are correctly connected.
Make sure all cards, memory, and cables are properly seated. Including the 4pin/8pin motherboard power connector.
Try a different PSU. I had a PSU go out that acted this way, after an instant shutdown. Yours could be a DOA that acts the same way.
Try a single RAM module at a time. Switch modules if the first one doesn't help.
Try with all unnecessary components disconnected. Any damaged component can keep the PSU from receiving power good status.
I recently moved my computer from one side of my desk to the other and somehow it managed to make it so when I press the power button nothing happens. I've disassembled and reassembled the computer numerous times and tested the psu. The psu is working and it seems like the motherboard is the culprit. What is confusing me the most is that when I short the 24 pin connector to the motherboard then plug it in if I also press the power button I can turn on the computer. I dont see that as a permanent fix just in case it sleeps and I assume it is not good for the computer so I am looking for help on how to permanently fix my issue. Thanks in advance.
Hello I need to connect power/reset buttons to dell optiplex 620, but I just can't connect them anywhere on motherboard.
I need help as fast as possible
I've got FSP Aurum Pro 1200W.
What UPS should I buy for that power supply if we assume that it has 100% workload?
See watts to KVA calc: http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/watt-to-kva-calculator.htm
issue: what is the power factor?
hint: PF ~ 0.75
Hi I have an HP zbook white a K610m GPU. I want to play GTA V and I read on forums it helps to disable your gpu. howerver when I disabled my GPU the screes flashes black for like 1 sec and then my gpu isnt disabled. can you help me to resolve this?
HI, I was wondering if it is safe to use an atx psu on a motherboard with an eatx power connector. The motherboard has a 24-pin eatx and a 4-pin atx 12v connector. I bought the motherboard and started using an atx psu and everything seems to work ok then realized after it was an eatx power connector on the motherboard. Are there eatx psu's? Thanks
EATX is a form factor (12"x13") not a power connector. I'm assuming you are talking about using a PSU with a 20 pin (old ATX) connector with a newer motherboard that has a 24 pin (current ATX) connector. If that is the case you will need to consult your motherboard's manual. Some 24 pin boards run fine with only 20 pins some don't. The issue is that each pin in only rated to carry a certain amount of current (Amps). If you overload one of these pins your risk burning or melting the ATX connector on either the PSU, Motherboard, or both.
Hey guys im looking to retrofit my 6 year old gaming PC here soon, and by retrofit I mean totally rebuild it. here is my current build:
AMD Phenom II X6 1075T 3.00Mhz
6gb DDR3 RAM
Nvidia GTX 470
my question is this, I am really not having too many issues with frame rates yet even on the brand new games so I was wondering if upgrading to SLI on the GTX470's would be comparable to upgrading to a GTX 970? Thanks for the help guys
I was wondering if upgrading to SLI on the GTX470's would be comparable to upgrading to a GTX 970?Click to expand...
I would say yes. Just look at the benchmarks from Passmark. The 970 is more than twice the performance of a 470.
I want to learn how to manage ARM processor power management with LINUX (for example the Cortex-A53 MP Core).
Can someone recommend literature, a tutorial or web based information?
Thank you in advance
Hi, this is my first post on techspot, and I am kind of a newbie on building pc. I have never done it and been looking up everything I can. My needs are just basically normal computing but I want to be able to play new games (shadow of mordor). I dont do any video editing or anything. I have been reading that an i3 will be fine and I need a good gpu instead of overkill on a cpu. I also want a good mobo that has plenty of potential (something about more ports???). I just need to be steered in the right direction of what to get without blowing out the budget. I dont play too many games (and no fps and very few online). I just dont want to see a new game in 6 months that I want and dont have minimum sys requirements. Also I was very skeptical about getting an AMD cpu instead because they get so much hotter, but I know alot of people will recomend it. Sorry for being so longwinded.
Have you thought of going down the used parts path as you seem to be wanting a machine "cheap" with an i3 instead of looking at what kind of job you really want it to do, unless you will only be playing games in a really low resolution (fps). E.g. the Intel NUC and the ASUS Vivo have Core i3 CPU and they are nothing like a gaming PC.
Here is a couple of pros for a Core i5, and they are;
"Intel Turbo Boost":- Which lets the processor increase its clockspeed whenever the workload on the CPU increases and none of the Core i3 CPUs have Turbo Boost.
"Cache":- The i3 (Ivy Bridge) processors have 3MB (except 4 Clarkdale processors which have 4MB) of cache all the Core i5s (except 4 Ivy Bridge processors which have 3MB and 6 Clarkedale which have 4MB), have 6MB of cache. The cache is like RAM for the processor but it is built into the processor chip. So this gives it (the CPU) access to the memory storage a lot quicker. Without a CPU memory cache and RAM the CPU would need to access the HDD which would be even slower.
Searched eBay.com.au for "i5 cpu" in "Computer components and parts" and had a myriad of choices.
You really need to decide on the CPU first then mobo and then components (small SSD for the O/S, graphics card and RAM) and lastly a PSU to power all your choices (you could even bung a cheap PSU in just to get the rig going, so long as you realise that it WILL fail down the line!)
Hope this helps
Edit:- Changed CPU listings to be accurate for world-wide purchasing as some markets did not get some CPU incarnations released as a new product (based entirely on the Ivy Bridge and Clarkdale Core i3 / i5)
Reference Intel 2105/03/22 from http://ark.intel.com/.
Google released the original Chromebook Pixel a little over two years ago. At $1,299, the system didn't make a ton of sense for most but what it did was serve as an example of what a high-end Chromebook could look...
I was given a year old Corsair power supply XMPSU- TX-C I wanted to make sure it Questionable Power Corsair Supply s working right before plugging it to a motherboard So I did the paper clip power on trick and all the voltages were ok I proceeded to connect just one harddrive The harddrive spins up and then Corsair Power Supply Questionable makes a revving noise every second as if its powering down and back up repeatedly Also theres a green LED light on the harddrive that blinks normally its a solid on This doesn t happen every time I cycle the power supply however When the harddrive powers up properly the LED light is constantly on and rpm is constant I tried two other harddrive with the same outcome The problem is definitely intermittent I connected all three harddrives with the same results I tried the same setup with two other power supplies with no issues at all I am now sure the issue is specific with the Corsair power supply Is it because there s not enough load on all rails making the power supply unstable The AC current draw was only mA so it wasn t the overcurrent protection kicking in The V line was steady Corsair Power Supply Questionable but the V line fluctuated a few hundredths of a volt in unison Corsair Power Supply Questionable with the harddrive revving The V line was steady when the harddrive powers up normally I m hesitant to connect a full computer to this Anyone have an idea before I try to RMA the power supply Is this just a peculiarity of this model nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/corsair-power-supply-questionable.209459/
Hey I m new to this site and I was wondering if I could get some help with my computer From what I ve seen it says my computer is compatible with all the parts I ve chosen Compatible? Is Build My But I wanted some help on here to make sure they will work Below are a list of parts that I will be getting CPU Intel Xeon E - V GHz Quad-Core Processor Motherboard MSI Z Guard-Pro ATX LGA Motherboard CPU Cooler Corsair H i CFM Liquid CPU Cooler RAM Kingston Fury Black Series Is My Build Compatible? GB x GB DDR - Memory Hard Drive Seagate Barracuda TB quot RPM Internal Hard Drive Hard Drive Seagate Barracuda TB quot RPM Internal Hard Drive GPU EVGA GeForce GTX GB ACX Video Card Case Deepcool TESSERACT SW ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply Corsair CSM W Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply Optical Drive Sony S-CB-PLUS DVD CD Writer Other Parts I Is My Build Compatible? will figure out later Just to give some perspective I will be using the computer to record videos play games and render out edited videos If you think there are better parts to suit the build or if there are any parts that need to be exchanged please tell me below Also I want to stay at least under Thanks Jettster nbsp
Personaly from just a quick overview so dont take everything for my word, this build seems like it would work well.
What I would do is:
1) I dont think that this build will be able to use a 450W PSU because your parts are pretty high end and the 970 draws alot of power (145W around about) plus everything else I think that you should get a 500W+ PSU so you wont ever have problems related to power you can overclock and be a little future proof.
2) Why not go with more lower storage HDD's and put them in RAID 0? like 3 1tb HDD? each having like 75mb/s totaling to 225mb/s at the minimum as most modern HDDs are faster than those speeds.
Hope this helped and this is only what I would do. Dont take my word for any facts etc from this comment.
I am looking to get a new graphics card for my computer because atm it has integrated graphics, which as most of you know sucks. The power supply is 250W which I doubt would be enough to have a whole new graphics card implemented. The model is p6166f. The mother board has this for a graphics card slot PCI express 16x GPU. Please give me suggestions, I am looking to spend approximately 150 - 200 $ total.
We need to know who made your system. How old is your system?
I put together a list of parts for my first gaming PC for under here is the list of parts http pcpartpicker com user Linkin saved jTfRsY What do you guys think Please tell me if all the parts are compatible good quality and what settings this build is able to play Dying Light The Evil Within Skyrim Minecraft Max Payne Metro Last Light Bioshock Infinite and a few other games and how much FPS I will most likely be able to get this PC and everything else like the monitor OS optical drive keyboard mouse and anything else in July because right now I have and my birthday is in July I usually get around - from my whole family I will also sell my laptop for because on a site it said it is worth that much I might make a few extra bucks through that time so I will have about - I might be able to get better parts if I do get that much Anyway I hope you guys can help and PLEASE as best as you can try to estimate how good it can handle some of the games I listed above it will be a HUGE help thanks a lot guys nbsp
Get a SSD drive for the boot drive, it will make things load faster, keep the hard drive for u'r down loads, program files, and things that do have to load as fast. and I would advise getting a modular PSU it will make keeping the wires in the case a whole lot cleaner, because u do not have near as many wires connected that way.
I have a computer that I built and I am pretty sure the motherboard is going out on me... Any suggestions for a new motherboard that will support the parts I already have from my previous build?
MoBo - thats going out - : ASUS Crosshair IV Extreme AM3 AMD 890FX SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Extended ATX AMD Moboo
Processor: AMD Phenom II X6 1100T Black Edition Thuban 6-Core 3.3GHz, 3.7GHz Turbo Socket AM3 125W Desktop Processor
Hard Drive: Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 ST3000DM001 3TB 7200RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X + Turbulence II Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2133 (PC3 17000) Desktop Memory Model F3-17000CL9Q-16GBXLD
Videocard: EVGA 02G-P3-1386-KR GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
I built this thing around 2011 so any suggestions for something new that will work for me?
Take a look here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&IsNodeId=1&N=100007625 600158776
So I've been thinking about upgrading my GPU from a GTX 760 2gb to a GTX 980 but I'm not sure if I have to buy a new Power Supply aswell. I'm using a 650W power supply.
My specs are: MSI motherboard(forgot the name), 8GB ram DDR3, SSD 200GB, HDD 1TB, DVD-RW, 2 120mm fans + the CPU fan , a core i5 4670k (3.40 ghz) and the gtx 760 itself.
Try this out; http://www.extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp
my laptop HP g61 does not power on either with battery or when connected to the mains supply(AC). whenever i press the power botton the battery lit in the front of the system will only blink for about 3 seconds without the system been power on(the fan,the keyboard light nor the power botton lit will not on) i try to remove the battery nd press the power button for 30 secs before putting it back,still their is no respond. but i discovered each time i remove the battery and plug it to the Mains,the indicator power light beside the plug of the system will lit for about 3 seconds before it went off again.i have checked it with another charging adapter all to no avail. pls ,help me out.
Perhaps you have one of those infernal HP laptop motherboard problems? How old is your HP g61, and have you kept the cooling channels free of lint and dust? How old is the hard drive?
Since it doesn't work from a battery or from wall power, you should have an experienced tech take a look.
First thing I would do is remove the hard drive, so you can rescue the data if need be.
Then I would remove the battery, and try again from the Mains. If nothing, then there is some real work ahead. Consider this a major failure in that case, and get expert help to take a look.
I doubt there is a quick fix.
Please keep us informed as to what you learn and what helped get your HP G61 back up and running.
Hopefully someone can answer this as im baffle, my computer will turn on and of with no problem as ling my printer is plug in but if printer cable unplug it won't turn on but if printer cable in plug in it will turn on but while the comptuer turn on and I unplug the printer cable it will shut down nothin making since but as long the printer is unplug it will not start or boot blank screen but printer plug in I can get to the boot or cmos screen please help Thanks
PS it a Dell PP17L Latitude
Hi, I have a MSI g31m3 v2 s-7529 motherboard and wont turn on.
I change the power supply
I put on some themical paste in the cpu
I put away all hard drivers
but didnt work, only the fan turn on then its turn off
I think the motherboard dosent work.
Please provide list of make and model for everything you have for this setup (CPU, RAM, GPU, Hard Drives, Optical Drives, Power Supply, Aftermarket coolers, etc.). We need to make sure that you have all compatible parts.
Also, have you tried to disconnect all things except the power supply connection to the motherboard, CPU & RAM and see if the motherboard starts?
I recently just built a gaming PC with my friend I have installed all of the drivers for the GPU from the installation disk it came displays dark. Build. glitches goes then New problem? Monitor GPU with Windows has been updated fully also besides three updates that continue to fail They are just security updates they may or may not be the problem The PC runs fine and the display will show New Build. Monitor displays glitches then goes dark. GPU problem? clear and crisp for about half an hour until New Build. Monitor displays glitches then goes dark. GPU problem? glitches will start to appear in the screen and next the monitor will appear black The light is still on and the PC is still running whatever it was last I know this because it did it during a driver installation and after I waited an hour and then restarted the PC the driver install was done Often after I restart the PC nothing will show up at all If I wait awhile and get lucky it will boot up normal The glitches happen most often when I try to run a game The mentioned updates continue to fail and idk why I have ran a troubleshoot for the PC as well and the it says no driver can be found for the PCI Simple Communications Controller After I choose to search for the driver online or on my computer it says no driver found During a Windows Update failure I got another error message concerning my graphics driver saying a problem could ve occurred because a graphics driver is missing Yet the program GPU Tweak that was installed with the disk says that everything s up-to-date When I try to update manually it says the sam thing This computer was not expensive I can post exact specs when I can get back into it and maybe some pics Specs Not listed is a terabyte of memory blu-ray burner and and an msi Z -G Gaming motherboard I have a strong internet connection and am using a DVI port for the monitor I have ruled out the monitor as the problem Before I said the PC was NOT expensive I meant NOT cheap I spent around on the parts nbsp
Looking at the screen shot of GPU-Z it appears you are running a AMD Catalyst 13.8 BETA drivers. I would suggest downloading the latest drivers from AMD: AMD Catalyst Omega Drivers 14.12. Then go into your control panel and completely uninstall the amd catalyst from your computer. Once completed, you may need to reboot the computer. After reboot, install the newest drivers from the link I posted above. Do so and then try again to produce same error results. Let us know if it works or not so we can try other options, or resolve the issue.
I have a good system. I am likely to give it to my daughter and build a new one. I have read a few reviews of some new Motherboards and processors taking advantage of the new DDR4.
Does anyone have any insight on if its prudent to build in spring or perhaps wait>?
I can wait as my system is still very good. I just like fiddling with new stuff and builds.
Also will Windows 10 be available for builds by this time or again is this a wait and see?
You can install the preview version of 10 (beta work-in-progress). DDR4 more expensive than DDR3 but of course if you plan on buying CPU to take advantage of DDR4 speed would be the way to go for now.
I know we had a thread on this in April of last year but what I really want is a poll so I can quickly see the numbers. What I'm trying to see is how many people are running 3 core machines and how many people have 6 core procs. Keep in mind I want to know actually cores, not the number of simultaneous threads you can run. Also, if you're using a multiprocessor machine please add up your cores. Also, if you have a triple core machine but it's not your primary I would appreciate it if you would post so in the thread.
Work related question or just curiosity?
I run 2 cores now in almost everything I physically use. I have a single core system that runs and does stuff for me nearly 24/7, but I almost never sit in front of it.
all the parts etc will they last ? I wont be doing hardcore like using it all the time but I do want top of the line stuff. I don't mind prices at all. I like to pay for stuff thats worth it.
What could I edit in this build to to make it either better bang for its buck and better for performance?
I want to play all games at ultra and I want to be able to not upgrade anything for a couple years or so.
I mainly will be playing old games like modding GTA IV etc...
Surprised no one has responded to this yet.
Without knowing what games you might eventually get, its hard to build a computer that can play "ultra" setting. Games being released now are requiring better (if not top of the line - depending on the game) components.
If you were to use the existing setup that you have linked, I would suggest changing a couple things:
The RAM is rated at 1.6V and the motherboard is 1.5V. This is a small issue, but you should try to make sure that it is the same voltage. Makes for less "headaches" while trying to setup the computer. I would also suggest with the RAM - go 16GB (2x8GB) instead of 8GB (2x4GB). 8GB is the norm for gaming now, but who knows in the future. Better to get it now and out of the way, if you can afford it.
I would suggest getting a 800W (or higher) Power Supply instead of the 600W you have listed. This way "if" you do decide to get a different (or add a second) video card, you will have plenty of power to supply to it.
Last thing is you did not include a case to house all of these parts. I would suggest something that has "breathing" room. Get a case that you can add in a couple case fans to create proper air circulation and help eliminate heat buildup.
This is all just my opinion though, so take it as you want. But if you really want to "future proof" as much as possible, my suggestions would help a good deal with doing so.
Let us know what you end up deciding and ultimately come out with when (and if) you build this computer.
I don't know if this is the topic/forum. I was wondering if this pc build could play all of the following.
Grand theft auto V(GTA5 for when it comes out)
Grand theft auto IV
battle field 3
battle field 4
all metro city's
And a lot of games like that to medium-high-max settings.
If I posted this on the wrong forum I'm sorry.
If you guys want you can post part suggestions.
Lets start with: What is your overall budget for this build? We might be able to build something better depending on how much you have.
Going with what you currently have listed I would suggest only minor changes to include:
The motherboard is a Dual Channel RAM setup - So you need to find RAM that comes as a pair (2x4GB instead of 1x8GB) for better efficiency.
I would also suggest getting a PSU (power supply) that is from a better known manufacture. Yes the one you selected will work, but the lesser brand ones have the tendency to fail more often (and the one you selected does not have too many good reviews).
Okay, I really want to build a gaming PC.
BUT I DON'T KNOW WHERE TO START.
So, I basically want to build a gaming computer for the experience of putting one together.
I'd rather have intel or AMD, whichever is fine.
My budget is anything, but $650-700 MAX.
Now, I know 650-700 is minimum for a GAMING computer (at least I think I know), but all I want to do on the computer is normal gaming. Like, not hardcore 4k thing or whatever, but just ONE monitor playing a simple game. I don't need ULTRA graphic settings on the game, low-medium but still high dps is absolutely fine. I just want to be able to play modern games smoothly.
I have an idea of some stuff I want, BUT I have NO CLUE with compatibility with these things. I don't know how to tell this stuff.
So could someone give me the parts of a good computer for a gamer such as I? I play WoW, D3, MC, L4D2, SMITE, etc.
I shoulda asked this earlier....today's Cyber Monday.. I NEED TO SQUEEZE IN SOME PURCHASES!
Thanks!! Please help me out
Well, since nobody else replied, here is a start: http://www.techspot.com/guides/buying/page3.html
I m a tech with years of IT experience PSU. power bad Still or motherboard a won't up Not and I ve built my fair share of computers over the years I have a puzzling one I cannot get to Not a bad motherboard or PSU. Still won't power up the bottom of I m afraid I cannot for the life of me Not a bad motherboard or PSU. Still won't power up get this computer to power on Here is a list of things I ve tried and or eliminated The first thing to happen was quite strange The computer would start when I first got it it was a used system but only after a few presses of the power button I don t ever remember it powering up on the first press of the power button It s an Intel DX BT Extreme Series motherboard with a bit Intel CPU in it GB of RAM FYI the motherboard has a aux power on off switch ON the motherboard itself used for testing at the labs - the manual recommends using the front panel switch however obviously Current state the computer will not turn on at all There are two LED s by the CPU that are for indicating a voltage regulator overheating and the CPU overheating When I hit the power switch the VR Regulator LED blinks quickly once and that is all Ok here goes - Tested PSU came back fine Decided to use that PSU in another system to double check would not boot up in the nd system I replaced the PSU with a good one I know that works of even higher wattage Still doesn t boot up - Tried using onboard power switch same result Tried using the reset switch as a power switch same result so the switches are likely OK I even removed all front panel switch connectors and tried to jumper the two power pins using a flathead screwdriver Still doesn t boot up no power only a solid green light on the mobo when power is plugged in - Reseated all RAM sticks although a system should still POST if a stick is bad as well as CPU same result - Replaced RAM with RAM I know works Same clock speed compatible with this motherboard Again if it s RAM it shouldn t prevent the fans from spinning - Replaced CPU with a good one same socket factor Still no powering up - Removed all other hardware USB cables video card speaker connector drives etc same result - Also replaced the fan with a non-OEM intel fan that has a higher RPM and draws more air - Tried replacing thermal paste on the premise that since the VR reg is showing it s overheating hopefully this would do something - Replaced CMOS battery Same result After testing just about everything I came to the conclusion that it must be a bad motherboard What Yeah a faulty Intel motherboard I ve never heard of such a thing So I RMA ed the board and got the new on in the mail How puzzled was I when the same exact thing happened Words can t describe Solid green light when power cord is plugged in VR light flashes BTW the green light is a V Standby Power Indicator Now in the manaul it states that these lights CPU amp VR LED s will flash when they re indicating a fault not blink once So I tried all the steps again nothing I have replaced every piece of hardware I can think of with good hardware and am still getting the same result - a flashing VR regulator LED Intel has no support for this and the people I ve spoken with at tech support at Intel are stumped My only thought left is a grounding issue which would seem strange to me since the problem gradually got worse that is taking more presses of the power button to power on then eventually no response I am going to switch cases and see if that s the problem If that fails I am out of troubleshooting steps - I ve literally replaced EVERYTHING inside and outside the computer Again to reiterate these are the things that have remained constant in both motherboards original and RMA ed Solid green V Standby Power Indicator Flash of the VR LED when applying power I have replaced every component with the exception of the case and the standouts which I believe have grounding rings on the threads Any ideas nbsp
Speaking of shorts, try pulling the motherboard out of the case. Place it on a non-static, non-conducting surface and leaving in the CPU, heatsink/fan, only hook up the PSU, RAM and graphics card, see if will post.
Hi. Im about To build a gaming pc and I have came up with This :
inno 3d ichill geforce gtg 980 herculeZ x4 air boss ultra 4gb GDDR5, DVI, HDMI, 3xdisplayport
Cooler master nepton 280L watercooling system
XFX pro650W core edition full wired power supply
Intel core i7-5820k, 6x 3.30ghz
Fractal design define r4 titnaium grey window
Crucial 8gb ddr4 2133 x 2
is this a good build ?
Moderator note: This thread has been moved from another member's thread.
Hi. Im about To build a gaming pc and I have came up with This :
inno 3d ichill geforce gtg 980 herculeZ x4 air boss ultra 4gb GDDR5, DVI, HDMI, 3xdisplayport
Cooler master nepton 280L watercooling system
XFX pro650W core edition full wired power supply
Intel core i7-5820k, 6x 3.30ghz
Fractal design define r4 titnaium grey window
Crucial 8gb ddr4 2133 x 2
is this a good build ?Click to expand...
You should start your own thread next time with the question instead but its decent depending on what your wanting. I am also a bit confused by your wording in spots because it sounds a bit weird.
Are you just gaming on this machine or do you have other ideas in mind?
Hello everyone - I have just assembled a new build It will not power up I need a suggestion to figure out if the problem is the case or the motherboard This is a mini-itx build power-up: power New or Build MB? no supply case's The case is New Build no power-up: case's power supply or MB? Linkworld LC - B This case comes with a volt watt external laptop-style power supply that plugs into the rear of the case just like New Build no power-up: case's power supply or MB? a laptop power supply plugs into a laptop - a barrel connector Inside this power connection connects to a power supply component that is not like a regular ATX power supply but is on a printed-circuit board New Build no power-up: case's power supply or MB? mounted on the case This has several capacitors and other stuff From that comes the -pin and -pin power supply lines for the motherboard I assume the -volt power supply for this external power supply unit is right since it came with the case It was watt The processor is an IBM t with TDP of watts Lower-powered CPUs can be put in a small so I assumed the power supply might be under-powered I ordered a -watt volt power supply with the right size barrel - and same polarity pos inside The MB is an ASRock H MV-ITX It is mini-itx form factor Still same problem Everything is connected correctly When I press the power-on button an external CD drive I have plugged-in spins up for a while But no power light comes on in the front of the case there are no POST beeps the fan for the CPU does not spin up No other signs of life So power is getting into the MB - the external CD drive is plugged into a USB socket in the rear panel of the MB After trying a watt and watt power supply I believe the problem cannot be the power supply cord Can it be that I have too little load I don t think so I plugged in another mm fan and an ol-fashion floppy drive just the power connection to add more load - same thing no power-up no POST nothing but the CD drive will spin up when I open-then-close it yet again So here is the help I need what else can I try -assuming the MB and case are fine is it more likely the case power supply is bad or the MB --Thanks nbsp
Well, I figured out the problem.
I am planning to re-do the older mini-itx system I have; it has gotten riddled with Trojan software for kids downloading games; it basically has been de-commissioned already.
So, I took the pico-psu power supply from that older computer, and hooked it up to the one I am making. Everything went perfectly.
So, I un-did that, removed the MB from case, disconnected the barrel-power connection from the case, unscrewed and removed the power supply that had been mounted in the case, put the pico-psu power supply back in place (I had to drill the hole for the barrel-connection out to be a little bigger since the pico-psu internal/external connection is threaded and held in place by nut with lock washer), and routed wires to be clear of cpu fan, screwed MB to stand-offs, and closed it all up.
now, everything is great. I like this linkworld case, but the power supply is worthless. I may try to get a few dollars back from the ebay vendor, to make me happy with a case that is less than what I should have gotten, but is working for me; I don't want to wait on returns, etc.
So I have noticed my pc would shut off randomly and its because the 24 volt connector wasn't in all the way so when the pc would move slightly the connector would disconnect itself. When I go to push the 24 volt in all the way it wont clip onto the clip on the motherboard. It will stay in but it wont fully go in and I can easily just pull it out or it will just fall out from movement. Any ideas how to fix this?
I think it is not 24 volts. it is a 24-pin(also labelled as 20+4pin) , 12volts main power connector.
the slots are designed so that the power connector will slide into the slot to form like a 'lock and key'. to remove it.
see to it that the power connector is inserted in the right direction as shown in the pics (towards the side):
edit, any moderator: please delete this post.
(my second post to this thread is more 'presentable')
24x7 - Low Power Consumption ? Internet Download Machine
I want to build a System that has LOW POWER Consumption.
Mostly Downloading Stuffs , Might Host Own Cloud too , Email Clients , IRC Clients , Other Internet Connected Apps
I was thinking of a Kabini System
Athlon 5350 (25 W TDP) & Some AM1 Mother Board
Again I was thinking about the Intel G3258 Anniversary edition processor (But it has Much Larger TDP)
It should be A Windows 7 Machine . Not Linux or other what nots !
But I am Here for some Advice. I already told you my requirements.
Advise me - What should I do ?
I only want to buy
Processor + Motherboard + RAM
SMPS (PSU) + HDD
I have the rest
Hmm; Why is power consumption a hi priority issue - - are you running off a solar powered system or portable generator?
This build will be for my 77 year old mother who lives in another state and I am trying to build this as stable and problem free preventative mode as best as I can with the understanding that any hardware can fail at any time.
Anyway, NewEgg is having both their Blue and Black WD 1TB hard drives on sale that goes off of sale after tomorrow. I know Black is often the choice due to build quality and 5 year warranty. However, the Blue would really help budget wise because every dollar counts and it sees many people have had good success with the Blue.
She does MS Office, email, surfing plus she has an online business that keeps her very busy along with uploading a lot of photos.
Blue. Because of her work tasks.
Hi, I'm building a budget gaming PC but I don't know what motherboard to get. Here's the parts I'm planning on buying:
Intel Core i5-3570
Corsair Builder Series CX 430
A H77 board will do as the cost of a K cpu and Z77 board (I presume) would cost way more. I'm thinking something around the price of a Asus P8H77-V LE.
It matters on what brand you buy. Some H77 motherboards come close to low end Z77 boards. Also, the 3570K is just $20 more and allows for you to unlock your system fully as long as you have proper cooling.
If you would like, I can take a look at your build and recommend better components if I see it fit. Just provide me with a budget .
Hi guys I have a new job build, after advice A new and few outgoing troubles for the moment so I decided I want to throw some A new build, after advice money away while I can For years I have a had a really simple PC usually for uni basic gaming etc with only a couple of upgrades to GPU PSU but now I A new build, after advice have the itch to create something bigger and largely unnecessary I have read and read and snooped and searched A new build, after advice various tech-based sites but it is kind of like opening a book to the middle and trying to understand what is going on so I am here to ask you fine people for some compatibility questions as well as obvious things I may have skipped over or missed Here is a quick list of things I have ended up being interested in MBoard Asus Maximus VII Hero Z or something similar CPU i - K GHz not sure to the benefits of jumping to i or such GPU s In this respect I am perfectly open to discussion I am willing to pay in total for something ridiculous MSI GTX Ti x PSU EVGA w P Memory Corsair Vengeance Pro x gb DDR - Basically the idea is to spend unnecessarily but also with a little future-proofing in there Things to bare in mind I am by no means rich but at this point in time I would like to spend a little money on myself Seriously though in total anything to give or take a couple hundred would be acceptable Secondly this build would be something I need to spend a month or two saving for to buy so if there is anything new and sparkly coming out in the near future I am sure that I am totally oblivious to it so feel free to advise Thank you in advance for anyone who helps me out nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/a-new-build-after-advice.205476/
A good example of why not to buy cheap power supplies.
This power supply was about 6 months old, Used for 2 or 3 days per week, And drew around 450 watts under full load.
Thankfully the rest of my pc components were spared. It was used in my second older pc, I use a corsair TX850 v2 in my main machine.
Hi guys im new in the forum don t ON PC wont stay know PC wont stay ON if I can start threading right away but here goes My setup k stock ASROCK Z pro x gb of gskill ripjaw HX WD Black gb PC wont stay ON SG gb Shappire My problem started quite a while ago with another motherboard one day I started my PC and it just wouldn t boot it ran for about - sec and then it would shut off infinite loop So PC wont stay ON at the time I just swapped my HX psu for a temporary w one and it was all ok apart from having to take the gpu out since this psu wouldn t handle it Then that motherboard burned and I swapped it for a brand new one z pro At the same time as I got the new board I went to a electronic repair shop with my HX psu since I was sure it was broke And a week later they call me to go get it back and the guy tells me shes in perfect condition which was very awkward since ive been messing around with computers for years and I usually dont make this sorta stupid mistake I thought well maybe it was the previous board Even if she did work with the w PSU it didnt really make any sense but I thought wtv lets give it a try anyway Got home got it running and voila works perfectly For TWO days After those two days with a new board and the rest of the same components the PC went back to the same simptoms it would power on and off for seconds and loop and loop Again I switched to the old w psu and it works perfectly Went back to the store they tested it and swap some internal components just to keep it safe and deliver it to me saying it ran for days without a hiccup with HDDs and a bunch of different OS s If that even mattered So I got back home tested it and hurray its finally over its running perfectly and im playing a bunch of games without any problems But its been two days Wont boot LOOP LOOP Same old story HX wont work and im back to the w psu Any ideas Im out of options this makes sense Thanks in advance nbsp
I would rather think the PSU is bad. Your best bet would be to invest in a new one. This more or less would save time and the problems you are having. Plus the expense of repair a PSU that keeps failing.
Laptop wont load bios or OS Interesting wont load Laptop bios OS or issue here When I press the power button the HD activity led light comes on for just a second I feel the HD spinning up and running the fan kicks in and runs then nothing No Laptop wont load bios or OS leds flahing just power led no beeps no screen and no bios I v discharged static build up battery out power button held down quot and tried both mains amp battery to no effect There were no precursors to this issue So I can deduce the laptop is unable to complete POST in pre bios despite the lack of beeps yet can supply power to fan amp HD Now the GPU is Laptop wont load bios or OS GForce m GS aware of the issues with the xxx series I v kept the air flow clean and use a laptop cooler Possible suspect though it never ran hot and all worked fine till I turned on a couple of Laptop wont load bios or OS days ago Now I understood that a failure of the xxx series usually presented a degraded screen lines etc rather than failing post I m backed up and use my second laptop so nothing urgent just a oportunity to learn I am interested in hearing from hardware geeks and their thoughts nbsp
Seem to have been redirected here for some unknown reason !!
I just finished assembling my first build. At first it turned on without a hitch, was able to install windows and a few drivers.
I had to restart a few times, which went fine for the first few times, and then it just didn't boot back up. The power button doesn't do anything, the fans don't start, nothing happens.
When I jump the psu, all the fans start, so I'm thinking the issue must be with the mobo..
Here's a list of all the parts I'm using : http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/JFVvD3
First, are any wires touching that might be causing a short such as a wire touching the back of the mobo? Second, I had something similar happen to me a few years ago with a new build. There is a tried and true though often tedious way that can help diagnose possible issues.
1. Remove all hardware except for one RAM stick from the motherboard and this includes Sata and fan connections to peripherals such as your SSD, etc,
2. Now see if the system boots with only the one RAM stick. If it boots then shut down add the second stick of RAM and then reboot. If it boots then repeat by adding a piece at a time.
3. If is doesn't boot then it is either your mobo or your power supply. Also, check to see if your heat sink is seated correctly.
BTW, nice little system there.
My internet wont work, ive tried using both crome and IE but both browsers say that I am not connected to the internet despite the fact my computer says that I am connected to the internet. I know its not a network problem because my other devices are connecting fine. Also I tried connecting to the wifi at home and at school and it still does not work. My laptop is a HP ProBook 6390b and I am using windows 7. This problem started occurring after about 4 months disuse of my laptop which I think might be a factor as to why its not working. I have run windows updater and run a scan with my antivirus but still nothing helps. Thank you for any assistance in advance.
Have you kept up and installed all the Windows 7 updates and are there any yellow (!) in the device manager?
Hi can any one help I cant hear any sound on my laptop its all turned up but when I conect it to my tv the volumes fine but soon as I disconnet from the tv the sound ont go.
Did you fix this?
Sorry I must not have sent the last post correctly I am new to this site So I will try again I was getting ready to upgrade to bigger hard drive or drives Before doing that I needed to take the old hard drives out to obtain some information off the labels I did so and while they where out I cleaned the Mounting slots a little better than using just No drives to SATA Power hard air Having done that I re-installed them both When I turned on the power button the button lit up and the fans were running But No Power to SATA hard drives it No Power to SATA hard drives does not seem that the hard drives are getting any power as I can t hear or feel any thing Plus the computer is not booting No Power to SATA hard drives I don t recall unplugging anything other than the two hard drives But I also notice that I have a short cable bundle with two white plugs with three pins and one empty pin hole on the other end a black connection with with five connector slots with one middle on blank That makes me think that I unplugged the power to the hard drive someplace along the ling As I have a wire bundle that has two SATA power connectors that are plugged in But their are three white female plugs marked P P and P which are not connected to anything in that wire bundle I don t know at this point if the power comes through that bundle from the power source Of if I do not have the power plugged into the lope I hope that somebody can help me figure this out and let me know if I burnt out the hard drives and have to start over with my recover disk reloading windows and going from there nbsp
How would I close this post out. Dumb me had the monitor plugged into an unused VGA port. It only took me two and a half days to figure that out. I wanted to let others know to check and see if they have everything plugged in where it should be. Including the VGA or other monitor cables.
As the title states I cant seem to get my monitor to turn on when I put ram in slots 3-4.. I currently have 2x2gb ram installed and im trying to install 2x1gb more(in slots 3-4)
both sets are matching pairs
CPU: amd phenom ii x4
GPU: Radeon hd 7700
MOBO: Gigabyte M720-US3
What's the timings, frequency, and voltage on the RAM sets?
Also confirming, that you are putting them into matching ram slots? 3-4 tells me nothing and can be misunderstood anyway.
I wanted to reset my admin password on my asus ultrabook,
so I took advice from some wanker who told me to remove round battery for 5 min, unplug it from motherboard, plug ac power in without replacing battery yet....... So... THIS WANKER DID!...
Now turning my computer on ive got nothing .... Except a 'battery charging flicker', when releasing power button after holding it a long,long time!!!!! PLEASE HELP ME IM STUMPED, OR SIMPLY THE OWNER OF A PAPER WEIGHT? .... ( I did see a green light briefly when I plugged it in, without the round battery. )
Sounds like this procedure corrupted the motherboards bios, and you may have a "paperweight" now for good. Did you re-install the "round" Bios button battery?
I have a 9 yr old Desktop PC and my power supply is going out. The one I have is a modular style power supply. Is it required that I replace it with another modular power supply or does it matter?
No, it doesn't matter which one you use. Use whatever type you wish.
I had a completely new experience.
I installed a new R9 280 today.
I have a CORSAIR HX Series HX750 750W 80 PLUS GOLD PSU. ([email protected])
I was running an ATI 6870.
Previously I never heard the PSU. While checking out a game a fan ramped up and I thought it the
R9 280. I thought man that's loud. Through some experimentation I found the R9 280 fan noise was not the problem but the HX 750. I cannot tolerate too much noise from my computer so this PSU has to go.
I know the R9 280 draws more power then the 6870 so the PSU is doing it's job.
My question is: How many watt PSU would I need so it won't ramp up....or are there other considerations I need to focus on as well...besides the +12 rating and wattage.
Thanks for any help
Just get the Rosewill Gold 450w, I think it's on sale.
You won't really find any good passive power supplies.
So my laptop will not connect to the internet only by the ethernet cable. Ive made sure my wifi is on but for some reason everytime I click troubleshooting it will only tell me to try to connect to the ethernet cable. I tried to find different interney connection or try to disconnect to my router but that option does not even show up.
Ive gone through device manager n unstall things like the newtwork adapter of course after I restrted the computer itll reinstall it. Ive tried the options of restarting the router try to turn off the wifi restarting a an d reconnecting. Please help!! Lol
I have a laptop and use wired connection when at home. Laptops typically have an enable/disable key or switch for the wifi - - on my Dell, <fn>F2 toggles wifi on/off.
I normally run with it off and the device manager looks like this
EVEN when F2 has it disabled! Notice, no red/yellow flags because it's just fine.
The system tray (for a wired connection) looks like
and IF I enable wifi, it changes to
*** SO BE SURE your wifi is 'enabled' (that is not the same as the device mgr enbled)
I bought a gaming PC, and I am wondering if my graphics cards and the computer itself are pulling to many watts, Will the lighting inside the box put a demand on the power supply??? I am debating about taking them out, I don't even have the lights on anyways I find them a waste they came with the computer I bought
I bought a gaming PC, and I am wondering if my graphics cards and the computer itself are pulling to many watts, Will the lighting inside the box put a demand on the power supply??? I am debating about taking them out, I don't even have the lights on anyways I find them a waste they came with the computer I boughtClick to expand...
Josh*^ - the lights could not possibly be pulling more that 10 watts, at an extreme. Probably they are actually pulling a level that you could not notice before-and-after if you used an actual measurement, such as with the Kill-A-Watt.
Same for fans, and most anything else you plug in or on except video cards.
Everyone: you will spend all kinds of money to have powerful components, and a suitable power supply - so go ahead and get an ACTUAL power draw measurement -
The kill-a-watt is simple to use and read, very simple. it costs $20 or $25.
You can use it on anything you plug into a 120 volt outlet. Vacuum cleaner, hair curler, radio, anything. It tells you exactly how much power is being used. Exactly.
For over a decade, these power calculators have been estimating power needs, and they have been over-estimating by 100% the entire time.
Greetings I ve moved to another country where electricity is not stable and goes high low or even disconnect power failure many times a day So i brought an old UPS i have discovery and connected it to the outlet and connected the PC and the LCD screen to it Sometimes when the electricity goes high down the UPS seems can t regulate fast enough or when the electricity disconnect the UPS can t change to battery mode fast enough so the PC restarts I though the problem is from the UPS so i bought failure during My despite restarts UPS PC power a new one iXA PRO which also has a built in AVR with wide input range of - Vac wide range of input frequency output short circuit protection overload protection and the transfer time My PC restarts during power failure despite UPS is ms I connected the PC and the LCD screen My PC restarts during power failure despite UPS to the new UPS and connected my modem and an external hard to the old one Surprisingly when the electricity went high low or when it disconnected the modem did not reset but my PC restarted which means that the old UPS is still working and the problem is from the PC itself I use My PC restarts during power failure despite UPS a very god power supply Blue Storm - wat so any idea what the problem could be Note When the electricity goes high low or disconnect the PC doesn t actually restart it just half turned off i mean i can still hear the fans rolling but there is nothing on the screen and i have to turn it off then on Note Sometimes when electricity goes high low or disconnect the PC keeps working normally Thanx in advance nbsp
My guess is your power supply in your PC uses active PFC (Power Factor Control) while your uninterruptible power supply is likely rated for a passive PFC.
Could someone look over what I have and see if there is anything wrong with the list. oo and I have a SSD hard drive already and can someone recommend a CD drive and ram?
thanks in advance
Qty.Product DescriptionSavingsTotal Price
ASUS GeForce GTX 770 GTX770-DC2OC-2GD5 Video Card
Return Policy: VGA Replacement Only Return Policy
NVIDIA Gift - Watch Dogs
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy
Intel Core i7-4770 3.4GHz LGA 1150 Desktop Processor
Return Policy: CPU Replacement Only Return Policy
CORSAIR CSM Series CS750M 750W Power Supply
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy
ASUS SABERTOOTH Z97 MARK1 ATX Intel Motherboard
Return Policy: Limited Replacement Only Return Policy
NZXT Phantom 410 Series CA-PH410-B1 Black Computer Case With Side Panel Window
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy
Possibly, no one has commented because 1. people want to hear what you are aiming for - a gaming PC? CAD/CAM? Web-surfing? etc., and 2. you sure piled on a list of pricey items without any argument for why you need such pricey items when you can do nearly as well by sliding down the price range a lot, and 3. you have not said what size the SSD is - it might not be large enough to comfortably support operating system plus a few multi-player games.
A first-time build does not have to be the ultimate Win experience. Largely, builders work for a trade-off between cost and function. For your first build, you may want to build something that is straightforward, not too expensive, and can be upgraded in the future.
If money is no object, just get the most expensive of everything and enjoy. Just make sure everything is compatible.
I am not trying to be rude. Just kinda surprised by the price tags, and the lack of responses thus far.
My sister's 13" MBP (2011) died a few hours ago. According to what she told me, she was using it, and then, poof, black screen and no power. She doesn't have the cash at the moment to have it properly checked by a tech, so I did a basic troubleshoot in an attempt to narrow things down.
While the internals are a bit dirty, I didn't see any obvious signs of physical damage (it was relevant to check for this). Furthermore, the machine doesn't seem to respond to any power sources. I tried a couple different power cables and, while the little amber light on the magsafe (sp?) tab will come on briefly, the computer with neither power on nor display a charge on the built-in charge indicator. I will also note that the machine failed while disconnected from an outlet source with a full battery indicated.
My initial conclusions are a) the computer fried itself or b) the battery is toast. Any suggestions?
If no one here can offer any insight, I would post this to the Apple discussion forum. There are usually people there that can diagnose this from just a description so that is your best bet.
Can someone take a look and tell me if this build is OK.
Intel Celeron G1620
MSI H61M-P20 (G3)
AMERA CASE PINK GIRLS MICRO ATX
Could you suggest also some memory and a video card although I already have a GeForce 8600GS, will that card be enough?
Can someone take a look and tell me if this build is OK.
Intel Celeron G1620
MSI H61M-P20 (G3)
AMERA CASE PINK GIRLS MICRO ATX
Could you suggest also some memory and a video card although I already have a GeForce 8600GS, will that card be enough?
ThanksClick to expand...
Minecraft does not need much but it does need a decent CPU (At least a mediocre one) to do a decent FPS on most settings. In my experience changing the settings does not help as much until you get really low on the game (mostly its draw distance that helps) so I would suggest a slightly higher cpu and a low GPU like an R7 250 or and HD 7750.
Try something like this, Im keeping it cheap but you will appreciate minecraft more with a slightly better processor in the end.
Pentium Dual Core 3.0ghz
Corsair 4gb (2x2gb kit) 1600
PowerColor R7 250
XFX 450Watt 80+ Bronze
You can go lower on the GPU if you wish and the PSU selection on that site did not leave me much room but you can go lower. Otherwise the rest is a decent value budget minecraft build which could get a good playable game experience for anyone needing an inexpensive machine.
Hi guys I m hoping I could get some advice on a new build I m doing soon It will primarily £1200 Build for MMO Gaming focus on MMOs and Wildstar and WoW absolutely must work on it although it should beast through them Would be nice if other stuff did too though please point out any incompatibilities or things you would do differently Thanks in advance Specs here Case PCS MAELSTROM T BLACK GAMING CASE Processor CPU Intel MMO Gaming Build for £1200 Core i Quad Core Processor i - k MMO Gaming Build for £1200 GHz MB Cache Motherboard Gigabyte Z X Gaming ATX LG USB SATA GBs XFIRE SLI Memory RAM GB KINGSTON HYPER-X BEAST DUAL-DDR MHz X M P x GB Graphics Card GB NVIDIA GEFORCE GTX - DVI HDMI DP - D Vision Ready st Hard Disk GB KINGSTON V SSD SATA Gb MB R MB W nd Hard Disk TB WD CAVIAR BLACK WD FZEX SATA Gb s MB CACHE rpm st DVD BLU-RAY Drive x DUAL LAYER DVD WRITER R RW RAM Memory Card Reader INTERNAL IN CARD READER XD MS CF SD etc x USB PORT Power Supply CORSAIR W RM SERIES MODULAR PLUS GOLD ULTRA QUIET Processor Cooling CoolerMaster Seidon M High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler Sound Card ONBOARD CHANNEL HIGH DEF AUDIO AS STANDARD Wireless Wired Networking WIRELESS N Mbps PCI CARD USB Options MIN x USB amp x USB PORTS BACK PANEL MIN FRONT PORTS Operating System Genuine Windows Bit - inc DVD amp Licence nbsp
A better ssd, use an air cooler like Noctua D14 or 15, phanteks,stronger psu for future sli or crossfire 750 or 850,something like a 450mbp dual band for wireless or something in the ac wireless class, 8gigs would serve you well but 16 is nice to have. Last but not least I7 for just gaming is really just paying far to much for just gaming. One of the newer I5s would serve just aswell and save you a dollar. While the build would run okay, Its price to performance is grossly off. You are building a overclocker that cant overclock.
http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Freaksamcker/saved/BTwkcf As far as ram wise, the fastest ram within your budget.( 8gigs) Make sure the air cooler will fit in your case.
Ok I m not the best and building computers and am very new at it My fresh build will boot but display absolutely nothing on the it like except everything Fresh display all powers at should build, no on monitor monitor by nothing I mean it won t even go to bios or turn the power light from standby to on This build will boot up all fans will run with no problems including cpu and video card fans and everything will shut Fresh build, everything powers like it should except no display at all on monitor off by holding down the power button properly Also I have not gotten any light or beep codes Here is what I have asus m a motherboard amd fx -core processor black edition asus gtx ti direct cu video card ddr gb Fresh build, everything powers like it should except no display at all on monitor x gb MHz dual corsair vengeance ram watt xion xio power supply sata tb barracuda hard drive dvd cd - writable drive cm storm scout case I have tried trouble shooting programs for the motherboard and video card with no results I have tried resetting the rtc ram I have double checked the power plugs are plugged in properly and making a proper circuit I have taken everything out except the motherboard cpu cpu fan and power supply and still gotten no beeps I have tried changing how the stupid speaker wire connects connecting incorrectly according to the manual and still no freaking beeps I have tried using hdmi and vga cords connected to my tv that supports pc s and a monitor nothing worked cord wise but my old pc worked like a dream when connected to them when talking to tech support for the motherboard they helped me check that it wasn t a grounding issue I have talked to all my pc buddies called tech support and no one can tell me anything i haven t tried or that has worked I have no idea what is wrong I need help I have spent the last two day all day working on this with no clue what is happening nbsp
do you have the monitor cable plugged into the GPU or MOBO?
I turn-on the power on my laptop and all I see is a cycle of Red, Green, Blue, White, & Black of color on my screen. Computer was working the night before. I do not know much about troubleshooting a computer. Can anyone please give me an advice or guide if this is something I would be able to tinker to work or bring the laptop over for service.
I have a Dell XPS1730 (5 years old) with Nvidia IUPGA5D G84. Recently, upgraded to Windows 7
I appreciate your assistance.
The internal video has died. To verify this you can attach an external monitor and see if the display is normal
So I've got a mostly custom built pc, its motherboard has everything built in(Graphics.etc) but im looking to upgrade to this for graphics:
I have two questions:
1. I have a 500w psu currently, will I have to upgrade, and by how much.
2.how will I take of the built in graphics on the motherboard.
And also, are there any reccomendations for a better psu
Technology:GDDR5 SDRAM, Size:3 GB, Bus Width:384-bit, Effective Clock Speed:6.4 GHz, Width:4.2 cm, Depth:31.1 cm, Package Type:Retail, Height:15 cm, Cables Included:1 x DVI-VGA adapter, Peripheral / Interface Devices:Two 8-pin power connectors, Required Power Supply:750 WClick to expand...
your link clearly states that a 750w PSU is required.
you can use any of these online power supply calculators:
newegg(store) calculator(power supply requirement)
When I power on my Toshiba equium a200-151, the screen lights up but no display at all - even though there is loading activity. I rigged up to my PC monitor and everything is fine - see bios and windows loading etc. Borrowed a spare compatible working screen but same problem. I'm not 100% sure if its the inverter or the ribbon connector - any ideas before I buy a new inverter? Thanks for looking.
I would say that the video cable (ribbon cable) is bad based on what you have tried so far. This cable goes from the motherboard to the LCD display. Did you use the old inverter off the suspect Toshiba when you tried the compatible spare LCD panel?
So I have windows 7 installed on my pc ..... I cant hear any sound from my headphones or speakers whether plugged into the front or rear panel. and also windows shows that there are headphones plugged into the front panel. maybe that's the reason I cant hear any sound....but I tried all possible ways....also disconnected the front panel from the motherboard but still it says its connected.
Have you checked out the Sound section in Control Panel. Also check Device Manager.
I built a gaming PC and it wont connect to the monitor. Also the keyboard and mouse won't turn on.
My graphics card is a NVIDIA Geforce GTX 700
Could you please provide the specs for your build? Need to list the exact parts you used, including make and model. It makes things easier to help with diagnosing your issue or issues.
Hey, I am wanting to make my first gaming computer and despite all my research and back checking, I still feel like something may be wrong, not to mention if possible I would like to save a bit more money since I am just above my budget of about $500. Below is a link to my build.
I am hoping to play mainly games like WoW, Arche Age, and mmos like that. Also I may occasionally play something more demanding like Skyrim or something. Any tips, and if possible money saves, let me know.
Probably better to get rid of the GPU and just go with an AMD APU. Like A10-5800K
Hi all. I just bought a graphics card that needs 350 watts and +12v with 20 amps to run. My power supply has to following output:
+5V 22A MAx -12V 1A max
+5V (FP) 2A Max +3.3V 17A max
+12VA 18A max +12VB 18A max
combined power on +12VA and +12VB rails must not exceed 360 watts
Total combined power must not exceed 375 watts
Can it run the card?
Hi, could you please post a little more detail.
Instead of saying graphics card, it would help if you said the actual graphics card.
Instead of power supply, you could say what power supply you have.
I think I've checked correctly if the power will be enough and I have plenty of space to fit everything.
Were you wanting all those items? Seemed to be some redundancies and over-kill. Regardless though, 10K has me drooling.
I'm not sure if this the right forum since it's been upgraded. I am thinking of doing a new build of the AMD FM2+ and here is what I think that I want and I'm looking for any suggestions about this build in it's entirety. This is what I've picked at part pickers so far: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/oldguy55/saved/44ya , I'm not really a gamer, but I do a lot of video editing, converting, bluray/dvd recording and music cds. also keep in mind that I will probably be adding more hard drives to this build as my movie library is increasing.
Ok, so since you do a lot of video editing, I would make numerous changes:
1) I would go for an Intel platform rather than an AMD platform since Intel CPUs are dominant when it comes to video editing.
2) If you arent going to overclock the CPU much, I would tone down the cooler to something like a Hyper 212 Evo.
3) I would tone down the RAM to about 1600MHz since 2133MHz doesnt make much of a difference when video editing (or even gaming).
4) I would replace the Digital Black2 HDD/SSD combo with a pure SSD.
5) I would replace the AMD GPU with something more hefty and nVidia based. I say this because nVidia drivers are usually more consistent and nVidia GPUs are generally better for video editing. BUT, if you are working with programs such as Adobe CC, then I would stick with an AMD GPU (more powerful than a 250X) since Adobe products make use of OpenGL for the most part and AMD is dominant at that.
6) Case is your choice. I personally recommend Corsair cases.
7) The PSU can be toned down to a 750W (Corsair HX 750) possibly, but I wouldnt go any lower since you are hoping to add more HDDs.
8) I would find a Bluray reader and writer all in one rather than having 2.
9) There is really no advantage to having Windows 7 Ultimate over Professional or even Home Premium. Ultimate just really allows you to install language packs (there are some other features that arent really important).
10) You dont need a Wifi adapter as long as the motherboard supports Wifi, but it matters on the board. We can determine that once we figure out the specifics.
11) Keyboard looks fine. I personally recommend the Logitech Wireless Solar Keyboard K750 ($60) since you never have to replace the batteries and the keys are more tactile. But it is your choice.
12) That mouse is made for laptops, just so you are aware .
Sorry for the long rant, but I want to get you the best rig possible . I just need you to answer some questions first though, what programs do you use? How hardcore of a video editor are you (professional?)? Are the projects you work with in very high resolutions such as 4K? What is your price range for this machine? <--- this will help determine which CPU and GPU you can purchase (along with other parts).
I hope this helps.
Hi there. Since I bought my new mouse and illuminated keyboard, when I use the PC a lot, they have spontaneously been stoping for a period of time and then they work fine. I didn't have this problem before because I had a ps2 keyboard. Now I have USB mouse and keyboard and this happens. I do believe there is a problem with the power management. A friend of mine has the same motherboard and he incurs the same problem. I have a Gigabyte GA-B75M-D3V and here is a printscreen of my bios with the power management tab.
What settings should I change?
I think you'd be able to adjust that power management settings in Windows under
Control Panel>Power Options>Edit Plan Settings>Change Advanced Power Settings>USB Settings
Or in Device Manager>USB Root Hub Properties>Power Management Tab
Hi all Up until very recently I have been using Scan XS for custom build workstations for our D designers in our London studio for Build Custom Rendering Unfortunately their customer service has fallen off a cliff in the last few months so I am looking at alternative options One of the biggest advantages with Scan was their prices relative to more established competitors and I m hoping Custom Build for Rendering to find a similarly competitive option I have used Mesh in the past but unfortunately they don t include Quadro graphics Custom Build for Rendering cards in any of their systems this is an essential as we work with Solidworks amp AutoCAD as much as we do ds Max I have built my own in the past but as this is a work machine we d prefer to be backed up by a professional warranty What I am considering at the moment is the HP Z but these use Xeon E - CPUs which according to Intel aren t recommended for rendering I m still happy to consider off-the-shelf systems but ideally I d like to get something along the lines of Windows Pro bit i k or newer nVidia Quadro K or better gb RAM Minimum quot IPS Monitor eg Dell U yr Warranty Under k Any suggestions would be appreciated Thanks in advance nbsp
The Xeon E5-1650 that is in the HP Z420 is an aging processor. I would recommend something newer. I would take a look at the HP workstation site before making a decision through a 3rd party seller like ebuyer.com.
I would recommend looking at newer CPUs such as the ones found >>here<<.
One option is the HP Z420, but it gets quite pricey (~4000 USD not including a monitor (if I am not mistaken)). It has a beefy Xeon E5-1650 V2 inside along with a bunch of other goodies like a Quadro K4000 and a 512GB SSD.
It doesn't seem to me like many of the HP workstations have GPUs, so this is what I recommend: buy a nice HP workstation with a beefy new Xeon E5 6 core CPU (this will kick some mean *** in SolidWorks, AutoCad, and 3DS Max, trust me!) and buy a Quadro or FirePro GPU yourself. Make sure you check the specifications of the PSU first though to confirm that you can run a Quadro GPU on top of the other components. Also, you can easily get a SSD later if you dont want to pay extra for it in the HP workstation. That will run you like $300-500.
If the HP workstations dont work out (the pricing just doesnt workout in the end with the monitors and GPUs and such), then I would get off the shelf parts, but the problem with those is that it is hard to find components with extended warranties. If they do have long warranties, they will probably be expensive.
I hope this helps.
My laptop does not identify my home wifi... while my phone, Ipad and work laptop all identify and connect. it identifies very rarely and this started about a few weeks ago..
this same laptop identifies other wifis but not my home WIFI... even while I am next to it.. it connects very easily when I connect a ethernet cable...
what could be wrong.. please help
Specs on your laptop would be a big help.
Other than that, is there a switch you need to turn/switch on?
How old is this laptop?
Give more info so we don't have to play 20 questions.
Is my motherboard compatible with and does it have enough power watts it compatible my Card have power new to & enough with run Is mob Video to run new video card My specs More details about my computer Component Details Processor Intel R Core TM i CPU GHz Memory RAM GB Graphics Intel R HD Graphics Gaming graphics MB Total available graphics memory Primary hard disk GB Free GB Total Windows Home Premium System Manufacturer Gigabyte Technology Co Ltd Model H M-UD H Total amount of system memory GB RAM System type -bit operating system Number Is my mob compatible with new Video Card & have enough power to run it of processor cores Storage Total size of hard disk s GB Disk partition C GB Free GB Total Media drive D CD DVD Graphics Display adapter type NVIDIA GeForce LE Total available graphics memory MB Dedicated graphics memory MB Dedicated system memory MB Shared system memory MB Display adapter driver version Secondary monitor resolution x Primary monitor resolution x DirectX version DirectX Video Card Information Network Realtek RTL D D Family PCI-E Gigabit Ethernet NIC NDIS New Video card info Nvidia G-Force Video Px Video card UPC- Mb PCIExpress X Dual Monitor Support My power supply is watts and on my motherboard now there is only sticks of GB ram Patriot Viper Extreme and nothing else in any of the expansion slots I looked online but cannot get a straight answer Can my motherboard run this card with no issues Thanks I am shine nbsp
No one can say if it will run with no issues, just because there could be any number of complications that could pop up. If you asking will it work with your current system, then yes it will run on your current system with the PSU. I would advise that you uninstall the video drivers (and software) for the current card, changing out to the new card. This will create less of a head ache for you in the end.
I would also suggest trying to find another 2GB ram stick because your motherboard is a Dual Channel motherboard and the computer will run better if you have 4 sticks of ram instead of 3. Its not going to hurt your computer by having 3 sticks of ram versus 4, but you will get better overall performance.
All of a sudden my build-in webcam is no longer recognised. I have upgraded my OS from windows 7, to windows 8, to windows 8.1, but that was a while ago and my webcam has worked in the mean time.
Has anyone had similar problems or does someone have a (possible) solution? All ideas are welcome, since I need my webcam for videoconferences.
It could be compatibility problem,,, try to install webcam for windows 8.1
I have put together a new build with the Gigabyte Assassin 2 m/board and a Corsair AX 860i PSU. On start up the PSU clicks out and won't run. The PSU Self test is good - green light and the fan is running, however when I connect all the peripherals the PSU just drops out and will not run. I have double checked all connections from the CPU, M/board, memory, graphics cards. This is all in a Thermaltake Level 10 case, my next check will be the hard drive connections - hot swap bays. Any help will be really appreciated.
My old HP computer fried, but so far the power supply (Corsair 650W) and my memory 8GB and optical DVD burner/drive are pretty much the only thing that survived, lol. So I need a new processor, mobo, graphics card, mid case, and cooler. I have $400.00 as of right now to spend, but will have maybe more from time to time, this will take me a-while depending on the prices of the parts needed to complete my gaming pc. The games that I usually play are BF4, Titanfall, Arma III, Company of Heroes II, and Total War Rome II. For those asking what type of (Mobo: FOXCONN ALOE 1.01), (Video Card: ATI Radeon HD 5850 1GB), and (CPU: 2.80 gigahertz AMD Phenom II X4 925) I had. Thanks for taking the time to read my post and cry of help .
What resolution do you play at? I think you'll need more than 400$ if you want to play those games with a "gaming" pc.
Hey guys I had some contractors doing some work on my house today and they needed to shut the circuit off to the room my computer was in The computer was on at the time so it shut off when the power was cut Now it won t go back on Power button does nothing at all and I don t know if it s the power supply mobo or switch I ve got a power supply tester which causes my computers fans to start up when it s plugged in so the power supply does respond not Power mobo button working... issue? The results are in the attached file It shows LL which means to low to register voltage for the - V line I honestly don t know if I even have that line so I don t know if that s bad I attached the label on my power supply too Would Power button not working... mobo issue? no voltage cause a computer to completely not respond Because the fans DO start up when the power supply tester is plugged in I don t think the switch is the problem because I tried to short the power switch jumpers with a paper clip and nothing happened I also took the CMOS battery out for a while and then tried it again and that didn t work Any ideas on whether I need a mobo or a power supply I don t have an extra PSU around to test with but I may try to find one before ordering a new mobo thanks in advance -mike nbsp
Not the switch. Could be the motherboard or PSU, but I don't have any good insight.
I would unplug the PSU and flip the 120/240V switch to 240V, then flip it back before plugging it in. To me, this doesn't make any logical sense, but over about 16 years of playing with PCs I have seen it work twice.
My brother in law has a got himself a free computer to which I am going to donate my old Sapphire X1950GT graphics card. The problem is, is that I can't easily wire it in to the computer as it has a crappy generic PSU with only one Molex and several Sata power plugs.
What I do have, without slicing and dicing and getting out the soldering iron, is the adaptor cable below. What I don't know is whether this has a sufficient amount of wires I.e. 0V and 12V to provide power to my G/Card.
System power consumption with a Sapphire X1950 GT is less than 250W. I think you will be fine with the splitter mentioned above. You probably don't need much extra power to run the card. I assume there is at least a 300W PSU or greater in the system.
I have recently built a new PC and am having some issues, I am getting power to all of my components but no power to any of my peripherals (keyboard, mouse & monitor) my monitor is in power saving mode.
I have done the following steps to try and resolve the problem:
- Upgrade from a 500w to 750w PSU
- Replace CPU as there was a slightly bent pin.
- Replace motherboard.
- Reset the CMOS.
- Clean the RAM sticks and put back in
- Boot with 1 RAM stick.
- Tried using DVI, VGA & HDMI cables to connect to monitor.
Also, please note my motherboard does not have a VGA or DVI port so I am unable to test if it is the graphics card.
None of these steps worked, does anyone have any idea what may be causing this issue?
Your help would be much appreciated.
Need more info on what hardware you are using. Make and Model of: Motherboard, CPU, RAM, Video Card, PSU, etc.
It's easier to troubleshoot with this info.
Hey how's it going. Any help would be great.
Had an older system so got a new motherboard and CPU. Installed it all and then no power when I try to switch it on. The orange modem light comes on but nothing else turns on.
Gpu- GeForce GTX 460
Ram- Kingston DDR 3
Psu- Shaw p4s6 860w.
I also tried putting in one ram card at a time. Taking the graphic card out and using on board. Taking the motherboard out of the case to see if it was shorting out.
Hey how's it going. Any help would be great.
Had an older system so got a new motherboard and CPU. Installed it all and then no power when I try to switch it on. The orange modem light comes on but nothing else turns on.
Gpu- GeForce GTX 460
Ram- Kingston DDR 3
Psu- Shaw p4s6 860w.
I also tried putting in one ram card at a time. Taking the graphic card out and using on board. Taking the motherboard out of the case to see if it was shorting out.Click to expand...
By any chance could you post a picture of your computer as it is hooked up right now so we can see if your missing anything. Try to check if the 4pin/8pin connector on the motherboard is hooked up and check for tightness of all the Motherboard connectors to start with.
Hi im planning to maximuize my fans in my case Phantom But im not sure if My power Supply could Handle it Right now It Running on Phanton Case top MM fans rear mm fans and front mm fans Raidmax RX- K W ATX Power Supply ASRock GM-VGS FX AM w Radeon AMD FX- GHz Quad-Core Processor AMD Stock AM AM w Case Fan GB Supply Power x GB DDR MHz GB SATA Hard Drive DVDROM DVD Reader Power Supply Drive External USB Wireless N Adapter SAPPHIRE R GB DDR WITH BOOST Required watt My system is running fine now even if I put the fans controler into max speed but now im planning to maximize my fans in my case here is the fans status for my case Side x x mm included rpm Front x x mm included rpm Top x x mm included rpm Rear x x mm included rpm Bottom x mm HDD Pivot x mm Question Can my PSU handle everything for my system im also planning to upgrade my ram to gb or What is the Power Supply recommended for my system Or when im planning to upgrade my motherboard what would fit well with my system looking for slot ram or if my watt power supply strong enough to power thermaltake dual frio heatsink Thx you very much for trying to help nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/power-supply.199652/
Hello all I made a post regarding the performance failing of one of my supply power affect hard performance? drive/computer Faulty hard drives The conclusion we came to has unfortunately not resolved my problem and I am beginning to think my Power Supply may be the culprit Faulty power supply affect hard drive/computer performance? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Before I go into details here is my current Hardware Q GHZ GIGABYTE EP -DS R GB PC mhz x gb x gb Nvidia GTX mb requires x pin power adapters Asus Xonar soundcard requires floppy power adapters Windows x Jeantech W PSU modular PSU PCI-E nodes and nodes for other devices gb HDD operating system tb HDD data tb HDD data tb HDD data - added recently ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ My original problem in brief Upon accessing certain files in one of my TB drives I hear a distictive quot click lockup halt quot sound and then the entire system crashes first the drive will become inaccessible then windows explorer will crash followed by the mouse and eventually a BSOD after a minute ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ I bought a new TB a month ago to replace what then I thought was a failing TB drive Since the problems have become quot random quot and happen across all four drives tb tb gb tb I am now considering my PSU the culprit Jeantech Absolute w It seems logical to me Sometimes while performing tasks which put stress on several HDD s at the same time my computer is quot choking quot running as fast smooth as it should but with sudden freezes with those HDD quot click - stop - restart quot sounds Booting into windows is failing from time to time freezes on the quot starting windows quot screen or DISK BOOT FAILURE Insert system disk The PSU is modular - could certain quot plugs quot in my PSU are faulty I haven t tested this extensively but in some cases when the computer is not starting up at all using different power ribbon cable combinations seems to help Also I had to remove my DVD drive completely when I first installed the new TB I bought and I don t think my computer will start at all with it plugged in anymore so my PSU MUST be having a hard time coping with all the components If it is of any relevance I use an Nvidia GTX which requires x PCI-E pin power connections hard drives power is supplied via THREE modular ribbon power cables - two HDD s share power from the same ribbon cable lastly worth noting I use an asus Xonar sound card requires floppy power connector several symptoms suggest the PSU any thoughts nbsp
a 1000Watt shouldn't have any problem coping with the components that you have, i would recommend that u borrow a power supply from a friend and try it out on your computer, maybe the power supply is old and is not supplying proper voltages on all the rails....
I want to build the new gaming computer with average specification to play the games like GTA, Battelfield, Warcraft etc. my buget is around 1000$.. all suggetions are welcomed.....
Do you have a machine or configuration, that you are currently looking at?