Hello I am new to building the pcs so I am afraid I may have fried mine I really am pry I did not but this is what happened I finish tower Power will not work button My the pc and My tower Power button will not work when I turned on the power supply the power button on the motherboard glowed so then I pressed my tower button and nothing worked so then I re setup he F PANEL cords u know the pwr switch and all that jazz turns out it was set up wrong so I put them in right and tried to turn on the computer again the power button on the motherboard turns on but not my towers power button and so my pc will not officially turn on I am guessing and I am worried that I may have fryed my pc because when I took out the f panlle cords I realized my pc was still on and turned it off immanently and I am afraid that may have fryed the motherboard if anyone can help me it would be wonderful I am freaking out and have no Idea what the problem thank you for reading P S My tower button does not making a clicking sound when you push it I am not sure if that normal or it is broken or somthing it just doesnt make any click sounds nbsp
I recommend downloading and running Reimage. It's a computer repair tool that has been proven to identify and fix many Windows problems with a high level of success.
I've used it in the past to identify and fix everything from blue screens (BSOD's), ActiveX errors, corrupt files and processes, dll/exe/sys errors, recover lost memory, Windows update problems, defragging, malware removal etc.
You can download it direct from this link http://downloadreimage.com/directdownload.php. (This link will automatically start a download of Reimage that you can save to your computer.)
You could have a defective power switch on the PC case. Test this by using the reset switch as a temporary power switch. The power switch and the reset switch are the same for practical purposes except, of course, the size of the button (on most cases). If the reset switch works and is able to start the PC, then you know the power switch is defective.http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/my-tower-power-button-will-not-work.203422/
Power outage due to storm. Came back on without pictures and documents. It's an HP desktop. Would a file recovery program work? I've tried some of the instructions online, but they don't work.
Oh mary; I feel your pain. Were the pics within one folder and now they're ALL missing?
My laptop wont power on at all.
No charge light.
No light when power is pressed.
Was working fine yesterday.
Have tried battery and charger from identical working laptop to no avail.
Any ideas? I can usually fix laptops etc but if it wont power on at all I'm lost.
Did you try removing the battery and AC adapter and holding down the power button for 30 seconds. Then re-installing the battery and try booting again?
I recently bought a Windows DVD to put it on the new PC I'm building for my mom. That PC has troubles with the DVD drive itself (stupid motherboard doesn't have IDE..), so I figured I'd set up a bootable USB to install Windows before the adapter arrives. Problem is, the installation DVD isn't playing on my drive (I tried another DVD with a movie on it before, so I don't think its my drive). I brought it to a PC shop and for them it worked fine, even though its quite scratched on the back (I guess the person selling those DVDs doesn't know how to ship them properly) I didn't wanna pay 20 bucks for them copying the DVD, even though I'll probably end up having to do that.
Any ideas what the problem is, or what I can do? I'm not sure if the DVD will work in my moms drive either..
I have an older eMachines Desktop PC model EL1360G which has a 200 watt power supply.
I would like to upgrade it to at least a 400 watt power supply.
Does anyone have a suggestion as to where or what I should buy? I watched a few videos on youtube on how to do the replacement but how do I know all the plugs on the new unit are the same and will fit? Because if they don't, I'll be more confused than I already am.
Check and make sure all the connectors are the same as the ones you have
I'm not certain if the image above is what you have but I'm thinking it is.
Image above looks to have:
1x 20pin+4pin (ATX Power)
1x 4pin (P4)
2x SATA power
Does your power supply have these and only these?
I have an Aspire one NAV50 with Windows 7 starter.
One time, when I turned it on, The icon for wireless connection doesn't appear anymore. Every time I try troubleshoot it, it would just say that there is an ethernet cable unplugged. And so, I connected it into the ethernet cable and it works fine. But when I tried it again on the wireless connections, it doesn't locate to any wireless connection.
I've tried the ff on my laptop:
scan the laptop with MalwareBytes
by the way, last night, when I turned on again the laptop, the wireless connections can already be found. However, after few minutes, it went back to being unlocated again.
I had doubt the Starter supports the Wireless connecting but since you say " the wireless connections can already be found.", so probably it's possible.
In this case and at the moment the thing I'm thinking about is the driver. Try to update its driver for wireless connecting. (You've said the 'update', but update of what?).
hi there my wireless through cable work will not My only ethernet internet internet was My internet will only work through ethernet cable not wireless running fine until yesterday when I tried to connect to the internet the message quot windows can t communicate with the device or resource primary dns server quot came up I followed all methods on this website http answers microsoft com en-us w -b d ec fae but none of them worked for me I then returned my laptop to factory settings in the hope it will work but that didnt not work I then realised it works through the ethernet cable but not wireless I ran ipconfig all with my ethernet cable in and this is the result SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME THANKYOU Windows IP Configuration Host Name Nida-TOSH Primary Dns Suffix Node Type Hybrid IP Routing Enabled No WINS Proxy Enabled No Wireless LAN adapter Wireless Network Connection Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Realtek RTL CE Wireless LAN n PC I-E NIC Physical Address D -DF- A-EB- -B DHCP Enabled Yes Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Link-local IPv Address fe d fccc e c eb Preferred IPv Address Preferred Subnet Mask Lease Obtained October Lease Expires October Default Gateway DHCP Server DHCPv IAID DHCPv Client DUID - - - - -EB- A- A-B - -F -D - -E DNS Servers NetBIOS over Tcpip Enabled Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Realtek PCIe FE Family Controller Physical Address B - -F -D - -EF DHCP Enabled Yes Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter isatap EEB-B - C-AC - CEB F Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes IPv Address ef fb affc eb Pre erred Link-local IPv Address fe affc eb Preferred Default Gateway NetBIOS over Tcpip Disabled Tunnel adapter isatap DF D AB- BF- FA - CB -DFA C Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes nbsp
There may be an issue on the ISP side or router side since restoring to defaults didnt help. Or it could be an issue with the network adapter. Or it could be an issue with the firewall.
Try downloading running these tools (download via ethernet, run on wireless): Network Fix-It Tool (right click on the internet bars on the task bar in the bottom right hand side of the screen, and click "troubleshoot network...") and Firewall Fix-It Tool.
Did you install anything on your PC before this happened? Did Windows install any updates?
Try disabling your AntiVirus. That may be the issue. I doubt it though.
Tell me if any of these solutions help.
I have a Sony Vaio VPCEH15EN laptop & the OS is Windows 7 home basic. I have a wifi router which is of TPLINK.
The wifi won't connect to my laptop but it works fine on my mobile..it would only start working when I use the ethernet cable. I never had this problem before. I have tried everything ..I also tried the winsockfix.bat but all my efforts have gone in vain..I just don't know if the wifi router is faulty or the modem of my ISP...Please help me solve this problem.
I have solved the problem by myself. To do this, first you have to disconnect your Ethernet cable from your laptop and follow the steps: Start>Control Panel>Network and Sharing Center>Manage Wireless Networks and remove all wireless connections by right click on it and select Remove network from the drop down menu. After doing this, close the windows and scan for the Wi-Fi networks. Click on the available network and select connect. After a while, you will be asked to give a password for your Wi-Fi connection. Type the password and click on connect button. And now will be connected to your Wi-Fi network via wireless.
May be it will help you.
MD. MAHMUDUL HASAN
Hi! I don't know much about this place but there's a problem with my laptop and I don't know how to solve it. My laptop won't connect to the wifi anymore but it works perfectly fine with the ethernet cable. I appreciate it very much if you tech geniuses could help me out. THANK YOU!
Are there any yellow (!) in the device manager?
Hi guys I ve been researching and trying to days to get this to work with no avail so I decided to post here for some help as doesn't Ethernet connected Wifi work cable. using working when only Internet I see this community is really active We ve got different laptops here and none of them can connect to the wifi anymore it suddenly stopped working for the last whole week We can connect to the internet through ethernet cables though We only use one at a time if ethernet then wireless is disabled and vice versa Here is a copy of the ipconfig all Windows IP Configuration Host Name PeterMai-HP Primary Dns Suffix Node Type Hybrid IP Internet only working when connected using Ethernet cable. Wifi doesn't work Routing Enabled No WINS Proxy Enabled No DNS Suffix Search List moolahd local Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection Connection-specific DNS Suffix moolahd local Description Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller Physical Address AC- - D- B-ED-F DHCP Enabled Yes Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Link-local IPv Address fe ac a d b Preferred IPv Address Preferred Subnet Mask Lease Obtained Monday October PM Lease Expires Tuesday October PM Default Gateway DHCP Server DHCPv IAID DHCPv Client DUID - - - - - -FB- -AC- - D- B-ED-F DNS Servers Primary WINS Server NetBIOS over Tcpip Enabled Wireless LAN adapter Wireless Network Connection Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Broadcom GN b g n x Wi-Fi Ada pter Physical Address -ED-B - D- -FD DHCP Enabled Yes Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Link-local IPv Address fe c f e e b fc f Preferred Autoconfiguration IPv Address Preferred Subnet Mask Default Gateway DHCPv IAID DHCPv Client DUID - - - - - -FB- -AC- - D- B-ED-F DNS Servers fec ffff fec ffff fec ffff NetBIOS over Tcpip Enabled Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft to Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter isatap optusnet com au Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter isatap moolahd local Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter Reusable ISATAP Interface CE FC E - F - C C- D - D EBEC Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter isatap DDFAF D- B- -AA A-DBE BA F Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter Reusable ISATAP Interface E ED - - A -BB -FB FA F F Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes And here is a copy of the route print Interface List ac d b ed f Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller ed b d fd Broadcom GN b g n x Wi-Fi Adapter Software Loopback Interface e Microsoft to Adapter e Microsoft ISATAP Adapter e Microsoft ISATAP Adapter e Microsoft ISATAP Adapter e Microsoft ISATAP Adapter e Microsoft ISATAP Adapter e Microsoft ISATAP Adapter e Microsoft ISATAP Adapter IPv Route Table Active Routes Network Destination Netmask Gateway Interface Metric O... Read more
You have an IP on your LAN, but none on your wifi. Check your router to make sure DHCP for wifi is turned on and you have enough available addresses.
Hey guys... I just got a new EVGA GTX650 ti boost superclocked. I just put it in and I was not getting any signal to my monitor. I tried VGA, HDMI and DVI. Nothing worked and when I took it out to try booting with my integrated graphics, I didn't get any signal to my monitor. All of my connections and wires are connected properly, my power supply is the right voltage and has enough power to support my graphics card. My hard drives are spinning but I cant access my BIOS. I have tried everything that is common. I know my graphics card is not defective and im thinking that it might be my motherboard. Any suggestions?
You were using integrated graphics before the discrete card? It's strange that your onboard isn't working if it was before hand. Usually it's just a overlooked cable or something plugged in the wrong place. Did you make any changes to BIOS? Some boards require you to change the primary display adapter to PCIE or onboard. Maybe a BIOS reset will help the situation. I doubt there is any issues with the MOBO itself. I suggest stripping the build down to nothing but the bear essential components for operation. This way you can isolate the issue a lot easier.
Hi guys, new here...I'm setting up a new pc, sooo a few questions here.
I'm planning on getting an Asus A88XM-plus motheboard, Amd X4 860K cpu and Sapphire R9 280 3GB video card...so how much power supply would be enough...450-500W?..would 650 be an overkill? Is all of this fully compatible?
Do I need a sound card, modem or special cooling or something? ( I already have 2*8gb Ram sticks and HDD, don't really need DVD drive).
I'm also thinking in between Antec 902 V3 case and a lot cheaper LC Power Gaming 975b Air wing Midi...how much quality difference is there in between these two?
Also, how much improvement is there in between this card and my current one, sapphire r7 265 2gb?
Are there anything that you would exchange for something else...I'm on a tight budget, but I don't mind spending a few extra bucks if it be worth in the long run.
Thanks in advance.
I am considering purchasing a MSI ATX DDR3 2133 Motherboard 970 for my new computer build, and heard from somewhere that it is not compatable with windows 7? Is this true?
Where did you hear that? It will run Windows 7 just fine.
Microsoft showed off a whole range of new PCs and devices running Windows 10 at Computex 2015, but one that really caught the eye is the Quanta Compute Plug, an entire PC integrated into a power plug the size of...
They may be handy to a lot and even have very reasonable prices but I can't imagine myself ever wanting any of these.
Hi, Guys (And Gals) I'm attempting my 1st PC build and HAVE used the various online power supply calculators... however I'd like to hear some feedback from you all. No matter where I look online I always like to come here to be sure. My specs for the build are as follows:
MoBo: GIGABYTE GA-F2A68HM-H FM2+ USB 3.0 MATX
Amd A6 5400K 3600Mhz Blk Edt 1mb 65w Socket FM2
Video Card: XFX RADEON R7 240 2GB DDR3 LOW PROFILE
RAM: ADATA XPG V1 DDR3 1600 4GB
HDD: Seagate 1TB Serial ATA HD 7200/64MB/SATA-6G
I would really like to use one of the 350W or 400W power supply I stripped from my previous PC's. I'm thinking of hooking it to an HDMI or VGA projector eventually though (Haven't bought it yet) Can I get away with one of these and play a game like World of Warcraft? or do I need to order something like the
SolidGear 650W PS2 ATX Power Supply on Tiger Direct?
Thanks in advance for any advice & thoughts
Over engineer the PS;
Calculate the actual needed power,
add a fudge factor and
multiply by 1.5.
Then round up to the next commonly available size
Asus announced a bevy of new products earlier today at Computex but one thing you might have missed is this transforming desktop PC chassis. Crafted with help from In Win, this unique convertible case from Asus' ROG division takes the...
"Practical" is debatable.
As I don't go menu and Monitor's won't buttons the work away am writing this I have this blue square on the screen with all the settings for this monitor Whichever button I press on the monitor the menu won t go away Not even the power button works so that means I can Monitor's menu won't go away and the buttons don't work t disable Monitor's menu won't go away and the buttons don't work the monitor Unplugging and plugging it back in doesn t work as soon as the picture appears the menu appears Monitor's menu won't go away and the buttons don't work as well Let me give you a bit of a history as it might help determine the cause About a month ago my old monitor monitor started behaving weird It started turning itself off every now and again Sometimes few times a minute Every time it turns off it turns back on with the splash screen saying quot BENQ quot and everything I had no idea why it does that I tried pressing the buttons on it to go into the menu but every button seemed to shut it off and every button seemed to turn it on So I gave it to a family friend to try and fix it He said that the quot control board quot started dying and that he doesn t have a spare one or something like that He then gave me a spare monitor of his monitor until I can buy a new one or fix monitor So I took monitor from him and sent monitor to the shop so they can try and fix it About a week passes and the shop calls and says that they fixed monitor I go and pick it up and when I came home I unplug monitor and plug in monitor monitor was working perfectly then Monitor worked for about minutes and started shutting down again And when I tried using the buttons they wouldn t work again Same thing as last time So I return it to the shop and tell them that it doesn t work That was about a week and a half ago They still didn t fix it The problem is now the monitor also started having problems It doesn t turn off yet but the menu buttons don t work Power button doesn t work Nothing And on top of that the menu won t disappear from the screen As I am typing this there s a menu on top of everything Every now and again the menu will switch to a different option like quot brightness quot quot auto adjustment quot and such like the buttons are being pressed Now I am wondering could it be that my PC is quot breaking quot these monitors Is there a way for a PC to physically damage a monitor What should I do in that case Also I should say that ever since monitor died and after I installed monitor my PC has been getting blue screens of death It hasn t happened once in years since I got this PC and it started after I got monitor I don t know if that s something that s important but there it is If you need more info please let me know I am trying to figure out what is happening and every bit of help is appreciated Thank you nbsp
No one has any relevant information?
Here's the situation. I have this old mITX computer I built a few years ago that I'd like to hook up to Dad's big-screen TV so he can Skype from his living-room. Problem is, the computer is VGA only and his TV is HDMI only. The MoBo has just one PCI (not PCIe) slot with a maximum output of 75watts.
I tried a PCI video card with HDMI output, but the slot couldn't drive the card. Didn't even detect it.
I believe DVI uses less power (the cards are definitely cheaper), and I could just use a simple DVI-to-HDMI cable. A native HDMI port would be better. As long as it works, I don't care. But w/o an external power input, the card can't draw more than 75watts from the PCI slot.
Anyone know of a card that fits this very specific bill? Thx.
ADDENDUM: PC only has a tiny 300watt PSU.
Check this one out: Zotac GeForce GT 610
It is a PCI Card (non express) that has DVI / VGA / HDMI. It is also a Low Profile and requires a 300w power supply or higher. It looks like it should work with your situation.
I recently moved my computer from one side of my desk to the other and somehow it managed to make it so when I press the power button nothing happens. I've disassembled and reassembled the computer numerous times and tested the psu. The psu is working and it seems like the motherboard is the culprit. What is confusing me the most is that when I short the 24 pin connector to the motherboard then plug it in if I also press the power button I can turn on the computer. I dont see that as a permanent fix just in case it sleeps and I assume it is not good for the computer so I am looking for help on how to permanently fix my issue. Thanks in advance.
Hello I need to connect power/reset buttons to dell optiplex 620, but I just can't connect them anywhere on motherboard.
I need help as fast as possible
I've got FSP Aurum Pro 1200W.
What UPS should I buy for that power supply if we assume that it has 100% workload?
See watts to KVA calc: http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/watt-to-kva-calculator.htm
issue: what is the power factor?
hint: PF ~ 0.75
I have a Gateway NE56R and ever since I updated to windows 8.1 I cannot use the internet at home even though it says it is connected to WiFi, but it works at other places. Please help asap
HI, I was wondering if it is safe to use an atx psu on a motherboard with an eatx power connector. The motherboard has a 24-pin eatx and a 4-pin atx 12v connector. I bought the motherboard and started using an atx psu and everything seems to work ok then realized after it was an eatx power connector on the motherboard. Are there eatx psu's? Thanks
EATX is a form factor (12"x13") not a power connector. I'm assuming you are talking about using a PSU with a 20 pin (old ATX) connector with a newer motherboard that has a 24 pin (current ATX) connector. If that is the case you will need to consult your motherboard's manual. Some 24 pin boards run fine with only 20 pins some don't. The issue is that each pin in only rated to carry a certain amount of current (Amps). If you overload one of these pins your risk burning or melting the ATX connector on either the PSU, Motherboard, or both.
Neither my keyboard or mouse are working on any of the 7 USB ports on my computer. My mouse was initially working, but I read somewhere if you delete the keyboard drivers you can reinstall them and it will work again. BUT when I was doing that I stupidly uninstalled my mouse driver so now NOTHING works. I can't try if it works in safe mode because my keyboard doesn't respond when I hit f12 during boot up.
When I plug in the mouse or keyboard, I get a window that pops up asking if I want to install the hardware, but it's impossible for me to do anything because my mouse and keyboard don't work! If anyone has any ideas I would greatly appreciate the help. Thanks!
First I would try to find a different working keyboard because you should at less be able to boot into safe mode because the drivers don't even load until windows start loading.
I want to learn how to manage ARM processor power management with LINUX (for example the Cortex-A53 MP Core).
Can someone recommend literature, a tutorial or web based information?
Thank you in advance
I was given a year old Corsair power supply XMPSU- TX-C I wanted to make sure it Questionable Power Corsair Supply s working right before plugging it to a motherboard So I did the paper clip power on trick and all the voltages were ok I proceeded to connect just one harddrive The harddrive spins up and then Corsair Power Supply Questionable makes a revving noise every second as if its powering down and back up repeatedly Also theres a green LED light on the harddrive that blinks normally its a solid on This doesn t happen every time I cycle the power supply however When the harddrive powers up properly the LED light is constantly on and rpm is constant I tried two other harddrive with the same outcome The problem is definitely intermittent I connected all three harddrives with the same results I tried the same setup with two other power supplies with no issues at all I am now sure the issue is specific with the Corsair power supply Is it because there s not enough load on all rails making the power supply unstable The AC current draw was only mA so it wasn t the overcurrent protection kicking in The V line was steady Corsair Power Supply Questionable but the V line fluctuated a few hundredths of a volt in unison Corsair Power Supply Questionable with the harddrive revving The V line was steady when the harddrive powers up normally I m hesitant to connect a full computer to this Anyone have an idea before I try to RMA the power supply Is this just a peculiarity of this model nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/corsair-power-supply-questionable.209459/
I am looking to get a new graphics card for my computer because atm it has integrated graphics, which as most of you know sucks. The power supply is 250W which I doubt would be enough to have a whole new graphics card implemented. The model is p6166f. The mother board has this for a graphics card slot PCI express 16x GPU. Please give me suggestions, I am looking to spend approximately 150 - 200 $ total.
We need to know who made your system. How old is your system?
So I've been thinking about upgrading my GPU from a GTX 760 2gb to a GTX 980 but I'm not sure if I have to buy a new Power Supply aswell. I'm using a 650W power supply.
My specs are: MSI motherboard(forgot the name), 8GB ram DDR3, SSD 200GB, HDD 1TB, DVD-RW, 2 120mm fans + the CPU fan , a core i5 4670k (3.40 ghz) and the gtx 760 itself.
Try this out; http://www.extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp
my laptop HP g61 does not power on either with battery or when connected to the mains supply(AC). whenever i press the power botton the battery lit in the front of the system will only blink for about 3 seconds without the system been power on(the fan,the keyboard light nor the power botton lit will not on) i try to remove the battery nd press the power button for 30 secs before putting it back,still their is no respond. but i discovered each time i remove the battery and plug it to the Mains,the indicator power light beside the plug of the system will lit for about 3 seconds before it went off again.i have checked it with another charging adapter all to no avail. pls ,help me out.
Perhaps you have one of those infernal HP laptop motherboard problems? How old is your HP g61, and have you kept the cooling channels free of lint and dust? How old is the hard drive?
Since it doesn't work from a battery or from wall power, you should have an experienced tech take a look.
First thing I would do is remove the hard drive, so you can rescue the data if need be.
Then I would remove the battery, and try again from the Mains. If nothing, then there is some real work ahead. Consider this a major failure in that case, and get expert help to take a look.
I doubt there is a quick fix.
Please keep us informed as to what you learn and what helped get your HP G61 back up and running.
My PC with windows 7 is the only computer with issues in the house. Ethernet works perfectly but wifi doesn't even when I don't have the ethernet hooked up. The wifi says it is connected but browsers, steam, and Itunes don't work. I have Bitdefender A/V and already tried uninstalling it, no change. I also uninstalled steam and Itunes with still no change. I even uninstalled and reinstalled the drivers for the wireless adapter. I tried looking and I don't recall downloading or installing anything around the time the problem started. Before I try replacing the adapter itself, I was hoping for help here since I saw a very similar problem in another thread.
If there is any more info I can give to help you help me, please let me know.
I have an Acer that spontaneously decided I no longer needed to play games. Everything else works perfectly fine. It's been doing this for the past few weeks and I've done all that I can. I'm no tech wizard by any means and I need some help. Pretty much it'll open to the load screen for a few moments then disappear back to my home screen. Any ideas on what it could be and what I can do?
These are the specs:
Acer Aspire V5 Touch with Windows 8.1
Model number: Z5WV2
If you need more info let me know, I still have everything for it.
If you are talking about the games that are loaded by a app. You will need to uninstall the app. Then reinstall the app. I have no ideal why this happens . But I have seen it more then once.
Can I run 1600mhz ram on a mb which is supported 1333mhz (my config MSI-760gm P21-FX 1gb asus amd radeon 5450 gfx card And 4gb rm of 600mhz.
1600 MHz RAM should down-clock to 1333MHz just fine, but I will not make guaranties. It usually works perfect, but there is always the possibility of incompatibilities.
The GPU memory and frequency is independent and irrelevant for this topic.
I have done everything I can think of. I have windows 7 64 bit. I have disabled/re-enabled sound cards, uninstalled/reinstalled drivers. I have checked all settings I possibly can think of. My head phones work GREAT and on startup I can hear the sound, but once in windows, no sounds through my speakers.
I installed win 7 x86 on a sony vaio vpceb36fg. Everything seems OK but the Fn keys. The combination of Fn+related keys work only for sound volume and screen lock button and not for others!
How to get all Fn keys worked please?
Is it needed to install any tool/utility?
Your laptop came with Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit so I'm curious as to why you decided to install a 32 bit version.
Laptops, particularly Vaios, have specific functions assigned to keys. On yours you were previously able to surf the web and play DVDs without booting up into Windows. To regain all that you've lost will take quite a bit of work. The utilities you need will be on a Sony support site. However, sometimes things have to be installed in a particular order before they work. It took me a long time Googling, downloading utilities and experimenting to get everything working when I reinstalled the OS on my Vaio.
Before I say anything else, I am very new to building a computer. Ive never built one in my life. I am curious if the setup I have to far will work! I am trying to look for pretty cheap but good options for parts. So far I have a case, processor, and GPU in mind. I need ideas for the motherboard especially. I dont know how to tell if everything would work correctly, so if something would be incompatible, could you tell me?
So far I have
GPU: Nvidia GTX 760
CPU: Intel Core i7-3770k
Case: NZXT Phantom 240 Mid Tower
Hard-Drive: Seagate Barracuda 2TB HDD
Operating System: Windows 7 64 Bit
Would there be anything else I need? Also what is thermal compound and Heatsink? Are these required for my setup? Please tell me if there is anything wrong with this so far and what items I should use for the unfilled spaces! Thank you all so much!
I know we had a thread on this in April of last year but what I really want is a poll so I can quickly see the numbers. What I'm trying to see is how many people are running 3 core machines and how many people have 6 core procs. Keep in mind I want to know actually cores, not the number of simultaneous threads you can run. Also, if you're using a multiprocessor machine please add up your cores. Also, if you have a triple core machine but it's not your primary I would appreciate it if you would post so in the thread.
Work related question or just curiosity?
I run 2 cores now in almost everything I physically use. I have a single core system that runs and does stuff for me nearly 24/7, but I almost never sit in front of it.
I have a toshiba laptop right at a year of having it, it will not allow me to get internet connection even though it shows its getting wifi or set up through the router.. Is this a virus or other issue
Moving this topic to appropriate forum.
Hey guys, my laptop asus stopped working with wifi connection and I was just reading some posts here about this same problem but didn't find how to fix it.
I was uninstalling some programs from my pc but I didn't uninstall programs named "something wireless". I just took off what I knew I could.
I also tried the option "solve problems" in the wireless pc symbol and the answer was to connect my laptop to an ethernet cable...that never happened. Just now.
Does anyone knows how I get back my wireless connection? Pleasee
Powercycle the modem and router. Here is a specific order if you have a separate modem and router.
1. Shut down all PC's.
2. Shut down the Modem and router.
3. Power on the modem only. Wait 2 minutes or so.
4. Power on the router. Wait 2 minutes or so.
If you have a modem/router combo, then you don't need step 4.
5. Boot up the PC and see if you can connect.
Hi all I have to the WLAN work as rather Router on from a WiFi LAN a a typical situation in my Internet and LAN setup My ISP provides me with a direct LAN cable that I need to connect either into my PC or into the WiFi Router WLAN port I also have a LAN that I need to connect to so I have installed a separate LAN card for the internal LAN purposes My two setups are below with their issues I hope someone can suggest a middle grounds to have a LAN and a WiFi too Scenario The ISP cable goes into the WLAN port of the Router Cables from the router goes into my PC network card and to other PCs for LAN purposes The PC cards are all configured to automatic IP LAN Internet WiFi is now available This works fine for a few days and then the internet stops working because there is a conflict of IP The ISP expects IPs like xxx and the one on the LAN Router for my PC is Scenario Router to work as a WiFi on the LAN rather from a WLAN The ISP cable goes into network card internet sharing is enabled Router to work as a WiFi on the LAN rather from a WLAN and automatic IP with the ISP s expected IP xxx Another cable goes from my PC s network card fixed IP into the regular LAN port of the same Router Without any issues over the months the Internet works the LAN works other PCs have fixed IPs too etc but no Wifi Can I have best of both the worlds in such a situation I can t install a rd network card for sure as the slot on the mother board is limited Please advise Thanks in advance Bhavbhuti nbsp
isp==>(wan)router-->PC card-1, et al (conflict 123.237,234.xxx v 192.168.1.100)
scenario-1 is a configuration or firmware condition
scenario-2 is a real security issue and the primary PC is basically acting as a DMZ server and is at risk.
Here's my setup:
isp==(wan)router-1--- PCs in the same room
+---(lan)router-2(with wifi) - - - wifi connections in the den
configuration to make this work with full file/print sharing:
disable DHCP in this router
setup all WiFi settings here
notice: router-2 wan slot is left empty to make this work
set LAN address of router one as you please (eg: 192.168.1.1 )
set an address reservation for router-2's MAC -> a fixed, constant IP address on that same subnet (eg 192.168.1.254)
set the DHCP range small (eg 2-32)
router-1 will control all auto-ip assignments for both routers.
Personally, I add another tweak;
reserve ip addresses for all of my devices into the low-end of the dhcp range (say 2-10) and
let 'guests' take addresses above 10
This gives the opportunity to allow file/print sharing to known systems (2-10) and disallow for the guests.
Setup totally within the routers allow my laptop to travel and not be effected by these choices.
I m a tech with years of IT experience PSU. power bad Still or motherboard a won't up Not and I ve built my fair share of computers over the years I have a puzzling one I cannot get to Not a bad motherboard or PSU. Still won't power up the bottom of I m afraid I cannot for the life of me Not a bad motherboard or PSU. Still won't power up get this computer to power on Here is a list of things I ve tried and or eliminated The first thing to happen was quite strange The computer would start when I first got it it was a used system but only after a few presses of the power button I don t ever remember it powering up on the first press of the power button It s an Intel DX BT Extreme Series motherboard with a bit Intel CPU in it GB of RAM FYI the motherboard has a aux power on off switch ON the motherboard itself used for testing at the labs - the manual recommends using the front panel switch however obviously Current state the computer will not turn on at all There are two LED s by the CPU that are for indicating a voltage regulator overheating and the CPU overheating When I hit the power switch the VR Regulator LED blinks quickly once and that is all Ok here goes - Tested PSU came back fine Decided to use that PSU in another system to double check would not boot up in the nd system I replaced the PSU with a good one I know that works of even higher wattage Still doesn t boot up - Tried using onboard power switch same result Tried using the reset switch as a power switch same result so the switches are likely OK I even removed all front panel switch connectors and tried to jumper the two power pins using a flathead screwdriver Still doesn t boot up no power only a solid green light on the mobo when power is plugged in - Reseated all RAM sticks although a system should still POST if a stick is bad as well as CPU same result - Replaced RAM with RAM I know works Same clock speed compatible with this motherboard Again if it s RAM it shouldn t prevent the fans from spinning - Replaced CPU with a good one same socket factor Still no powering up - Removed all other hardware USB cables video card speaker connector drives etc same result - Also replaced the fan with a non-OEM intel fan that has a higher RPM and draws more air - Tried replacing thermal paste on the premise that since the VR reg is showing it s overheating hopefully this would do something - Replaced CMOS battery Same result After testing just about everything I came to the conclusion that it must be a bad motherboard What Yeah a faulty Intel motherboard I ve never heard of such a thing So I RMA ed the board and got the new on in the mail How puzzled was I when the same exact thing happened Words can t describe Solid green light when power cord is plugged in VR light flashes BTW the green light is a V Standby Power Indicator Now in the manaul it states that these lights CPU amp VR LED s will flash when they re indicating a fault not blink once So I tried all the steps again nothing I have replaced every piece of hardware I can think of with good hardware and am still getting the same result - a flashing VR regulator LED Intel has no support for this and the people I ve spoken with at tech support at Intel are stumped My only thought left is a grounding issue which would seem strange to me since the problem gradually got worse that is taking more presses of the power button to power on then eventually no response I am going to switch cases and see if that s the problem If that fails I am out of troubleshooting steps - I ve literally replaced EVERYTHING inside and outside the computer Again to reiterate these are the things that have remained constant in both motherboards original and RMA ed Solid green V Standby Power Indicator Flash of the VR LED when applying power I have replaced every component with the exception of the case and the standouts which I believe have grounding rings on the threads Any ideas nbsp
Speaking of shorts, try pulling the motherboard out of the case. Place it on a non-static, non-conducting surface and leaving in the CPU, heatsink/fan, only hook up the PSU, RAM and graphics card, see if will post.
Well I am accessing my remote router via and it works access work via phone, Remote PC doesnt via ok when I am using my Phone s Remote access ok via phone, doesnt work via PC browser chrome or IE on Samsung however when I am at computer at work I cant access my router I ran Tracert and I am getting up to hoops and th says quot Request timed out quot lt ms lt ms ms lt ms lt ms lt ms lt ms lt ms lt ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms Remote access ok via phone, doesnt work via PC ms ms ms border ge - unitedair- chg pnap net ms ms ms core te - -bbnet chg pnap net ms ms ms ae - chi ip gtt net ms ms ms xe- - - chi ip gtt net ms ms ms c-eth- - - -pe ecermak il ibone comcast ms ms ms he- - - - -cr ecermak il ibone comcast ms ms ms ms ms ms te- - - - -sur mortongrove il chicago com net ms ms ms te- - -cdn mortongrove il chicago comcas t Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Trace complete Anyone would know why it works on the phone and doesnt really go through all the way to the end nbsp
Ok I have to ask first when you are using your phone is it always using mobile data or do you connect it at work via wifi? When reason that makes sense to me is at your work they maybe blocking the remote port. I guess it all depends on what you are using also. If you are just using standard RDP then they might be blocking port 3389. If you could give further information on how you are connecting remotely whether using software such as teamviewer or just standard RDP. Also how do you have your router configured. I can better understand witht is information thanks....
Hello everyone - I have just assembled a new build It will not power up I need a suggestion to figure out if the problem is the case or the motherboard This is a mini-itx build power-up: power New or Build MB? no supply case's The case is New Build no power-up: case's power supply or MB? Linkworld LC - B This case comes with a volt watt external laptop-style power supply that plugs into the rear of the case just like New Build no power-up: case's power supply or MB? a laptop power supply plugs into a laptop - a barrel connector Inside this power connection connects to a power supply component that is not like a regular ATX power supply but is on a printed-circuit board New Build no power-up: case's power supply or MB? mounted on the case This has several capacitors and other stuff From that comes the -pin and -pin power supply lines for the motherboard I assume the -volt power supply for this external power supply unit is right since it came with the case It was watt The processor is an IBM t with TDP of watts Lower-powered CPUs can be put in a small so I assumed the power supply might be under-powered I ordered a -watt volt power supply with the right size barrel - and same polarity pos inside The MB is an ASRock H MV-ITX It is mini-itx form factor Still same problem Everything is connected correctly When I press the power-on button an external CD drive I have plugged-in spins up for a while But no power light comes on in the front of the case there are no POST beeps the fan for the CPU does not spin up No other signs of life So power is getting into the MB - the external CD drive is plugged into a USB socket in the rear panel of the MB After trying a watt and watt power supply I believe the problem cannot be the power supply cord Can it be that I have too little load I don t think so I plugged in another mm fan and an ol-fashion floppy drive just the power connection to add more load - same thing no power-up no POST nothing but the CD drive will spin up when I open-then-close it yet again So here is the help I need what else can I try -assuming the MB and case are fine is it more likely the case power supply is bad or the MB --Thanks nbsp
Well, I figured out the problem.
I am planning to re-do the older mini-itx system I have; it has gotten riddled with Trojan software for kids downloading games; it basically has been de-commissioned already.
So, I took the pico-psu power supply from that older computer, and hooked it up to the one I am making. Everything went perfectly.
So, I un-did that, removed the MB from case, disconnected the barrel-power connection from the case, unscrewed and removed the power supply that had been mounted in the case, put the pico-psu power supply back in place (I had to drill the hole for the barrel-connection out to be a little bigger since the pico-psu internal/external connection is threaded and held in place by nut with lock washer), and routed wires to be clear of cpu fan, screwed MB to stand-offs, and closed it all up.
now, everything is great. I like this linkworld case, but the power supply is worthless. I may try to get a few dollars back from the ebay vendor, to make me happy with a case that is less than what I should have gotten, but is working for me; I don't want to wait on returns, etc.
I have a problem with my laptop.
Sometimes the space bar, n and enter key stops working. When this happens, I can usually hit the button a few times and the key finally registers. It happens randomly and quite often. But sometimes I can type for hours without it happening.
I have not spilled any liquid on my laptop and I haven't dropped it. The problem started randomly a few months ago.
Does anyone know what could be causing this?
The laptop is an Asus K55V. It is nearly 3 years old
Not sure if this might work that well, but give it a try! If it doesn't..go to a technician...its probably the best idea.
Shut down the laptop, removed battery and cable for a moment, press and hold the start button for 60 seconds... and replace the battery.. start the lap top.
Hope this helps!
My new build wont power on all I hear is a few high pitch sounds coming from what I think is the psu.
SSD 128GB SAMSUNG 850 Pro
1TB HDD (from previous build it was working fine 2 days ago)
2TB HDD(from previous build it was working fine 2 days ago)
GPU = GTX 680 2GB (from previous build it was working fine 2 days ago) MSI GTX 970 GAMING 4G GeForce GTX 970 4GB 256-Bit on it's way in the mail.
Case is pretty old and doesnt have a lid but it was working fine with my pervious buid)
PSU = CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750W ATX12V v2.31/ EPS12V v2.92 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC High Performance Power Supply (from previous build it was working fine 2 days ago)
Heatsink = Scythe Ashura Universal Processor Cooler
CPU = Intel Core i7-4790K Haswell Refresh Quad-Core 4.0GHz
Motherboard = MSI Z97-Gaming 7 Intel Z97 Motherboard
Memory = CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory
Please help me
Disconnect everything except the monitor, cpu, ram. In fact, go down to 1 stick of ram. Will it POST now?
24x7 - Low Power Consumption ? Internet Download Machine
I want to build a System that has LOW POWER Consumption.
Mostly Downloading Stuffs , Might Host Own Cloud too , Email Clients , IRC Clients , Other Internet Connected Apps
I was thinking of a Kabini System
Athlon 5350 (25 W TDP) & Some AM1 Mother Board
Again I was thinking about the Intel G3258 Anniversary edition processor (But it has Much Larger TDP)
It should be A Windows 7 Machine . Not Linux or other what nots !
But I am Here for some Advice. I already told you my requirements.
Advise me - What should I do ?
I only want to buy
Processor + Motherboard + RAM
SMPS (PSU) + HDD
I have the rest
Hmm; Why is power consumption a hi priority issue - - are you running off a solar powered system or portable generator?
What the title says. I bought a TP-Link WDR4300 and installed it, and everything works perfectly on every device except for my laptop (Windows 8.1 Lenovo G480, running Windows Defender as AV). When connecting wirelessly, I get access to the router, but it shows "limited", and it doesn't even let me get into the setup page (192.168.0.1) and when I ping it, every packet is lost. Ethernet, meanwhile, works perfectly. I'd appreciate any suggestions on how to fix it.
I'd like to attach the ipconfig outputs but my command prompt is in spanish and some of the characters are missing in the .txt file, too. I don't know how to get the file in english.
@jobeard I saw one thread you solved in which you said to mention you so you could help. I'd really appreciate it. Thanks beforehand for any and all suggestions.
Hi, You will always have to use the ethernet (Cat 5) cable to get into your router's software, at 192.168.0.1, all routers are set up like that for security reasons.
It's done that way so that no one can change your settings, passwords etc using a wireless connection, you must use the Cat 5 cable to make setup & security changes.
Did you get any setup software with the TP Link router?
If you get good internet access using Windows 8.1 using the ethernet cable, it
might point to possible wireless driver issues.
It might be worth downloading the latest driver for your WDR4300 from the TP-link website;
A good example of why not to buy cheap power supplies.
This power supply was about 6 months old, Used for 2 or 3 days per week, And drew around 450 watts under full load.
Thankfully the rest of my pc components were spared. It was used in my second older pc, I use a corsair TX850 v2 in my main machine.
My internet wont work, ive tried using both crome and IE but both browsers say that I am not connected to the internet despite the fact my computer says that I am connected to the internet. I know its not a network problem because my other devices are connecting fine. Also I tried connecting to the wifi at home and at school and it still does not work. My laptop is a HP ProBook 6390b and I am using windows 7. This problem started occurring after about 4 months disuse of my laptop which I think might be a factor as to why its not working. I have run windows updater and run a scan with my antivirus but still nothing helps. Thank you for any assistance in advance.
Have you kept up and installed all the Windows 7 updates and are there any yellow (!) in the device manager?
I got a hp 6371it
link --> (http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c02054227&tmp_track_link=ot_faqs/top_issues/it_i...
I have this problem: I bought a kingston Dimm ValueRam 4GB DDR3 1333MHz Non-ECC CL9 (it is compatible with my mb according to hp website). I installed it on my pc and:
1) if I install just that ram it works fine
2) if I install that ram I bought and one ore both ram I had already installed in my pc it doens't work or it blocks on hp main screen or it appears the classic blue screen of hardware error and it never enter on windows (it asks for a system reinstallation)
what is the problem? should I do something else? I tried mounting rams in different slots, I tried everything
Sound as though the ram you bought is not compatible with the existing ram. Is the ram you bought the same specs as the old ram?
About a week ago, our cable internet connection went out. Before I had a chance to reboot the modem & router, my 11 year old decided to completely reset the router to factory settings! Ugh! This caused several issues: my home network is now gone, only a unsecured factory network is available. When I try to plug my laptop into the router via ethernet cord (in order to login to router and setup secure network) my computer will not recognize the router and won't connect to internet. I tried troubleshooting with my cable provider and they say it's in my computer (IP address will not reset) and he recommended I replace my network card. However, today when I brought my laptop to work, it will instantly recognize the wifi at work. So is it really my network card that is causing issues? Please help, I'm desperate and not tech too tech savvy!
Linksys wireless router
Charter cable modem
Hp pavillion dv6 laptop with Windows Vista OS
Did you figure this out?
Hi can any one help I cant hear any sound on my laptop its all turned up but when I conect it to my tv the volumes fine but soon as I disconnet from the tv the sound ont go.
Did you fix this?
Sorry I must not have sent the last post correctly I am new to this site So I will try again I was getting ready to upgrade to bigger hard drive or drives Before doing that I needed to take the old hard drives out to obtain some information off the labels I did so and while they where out I cleaned the Mounting slots a little better than using just No drives to SATA Power hard air Having done that I re-installed them both When I turned on the power button the button lit up and the fans were running But No Power to SATA hard drives it No Power to SATA hard drives does not seem that the hard drives are getting any power as I can t hear or feel any thing Plus the computer is not booting No Power to SATA hard drives I don t recall unplugging anything other than the two hard drives But I also notice that I have a short cable bundle with two white plugs with three pins and one empty pin hole on the other end a black connection with with five connector slots with one middle on blank That makes me think that I unplugged the power to the hard drive someplace along the ling As I have a wire bundle that has two SATA power connectors that are plugged in But their are three white female plugs marked P P and P which are not connected to anything in that wire bundle I don t know at this point if the power comes through that bundle from the power source Of if I do not have the power plugged into the lope I hope that somebody can help me figure this out and let me know if I burnt out the hard drives and have to start over with my recover disk reloading windows and going from there nbsp
How would I close this post out. Dumb me had the monitor plugged into an unused VGA port. It only took me two and a half days to figure that out. I wanted to let others know to check and see if they have everything plugged in where it should be. Including the VGA or other monitor cables.
Bought the following brand new at Best Buy on and trying to get setup Lenovo K e desktop tower keyboard and mouse LG MP HQ monitor MS Office key code Webroot internet security disc After connecting everything according to the instruction of both the Lenovo and LG instructions double amp triple checking all parts accounted for and connected properly here s what happened Lenovo tower up turn Monitor tower, hooked on doesn't to but boots up fine disc drive in tower opens and closes properly Lenovo keyboard and mouse both detected Great so far except LG monitor does not turn on at all In the back of the monitor two things are connected blue HDMI connector with pins on both sides is connected to HDMI connection in back of tower AC DC adapter plugged into electrical outlet and other end directly into monitor Everything works when power booted up except monitor shows no life - no light indicator and black screen Monitor hooked up to tower, but doesn't turn on Monitor just doesn t turn on at all There are driver discs for both lenovo win and the LG monitor and like I said I can insert them into the tower and close but nothing happens on the monitor display Best Buy said it should be no issue using the LG monitor with the Lenovo PC tower They will charge me to come out to my home even though I bought two year Geek Squad plan They also said I would still get charged even if they were unable to get Monitor hooked up to tower, but doesn't turn on me setup Seems like there is one probably really easy fix but I don t want to pay to have them come out if I get charged regardless of the outcome Anyone out there with any idea what could be preventing the monitor from powering up other than Monitor hooked up to tower, but doesn't turn on it s bad which is unlikely as it was brand new sealed in the box Thanks nbsp
If no standby LED on monitor, is there a separate on/off switch on the side of the monitor?
With LG there are usually manual buttons for CH+- & vol +- plus On/Off (although I have seen monitors with no on/off at all.)
Also check for 'hidden' buttons on the front lower edge of frame or under the front (right) edge.
I would try a different mains lead/cord that is known to to work, also check for a fuse in the plug, could be missing, or isolated with plastic foil.
Even with no inputs the monitor would show a 'No Signal' sign if it was working.
If no 'standby' LED and you have a separate AC to DC adapter block then that could be the problem. All monitors I've seen have a direct AC connection though.
If it then does work, the on-screen menu will need to be selected, and 'input' changed to HDMI.
I wanted to reset my admin password on my asus ultrabook,
so I took advice from some wanker who told me to remove round battery for 5 min, unplug it from motherboard, plug ac power in without replacing battery yet....... So... THIS WANKER DID!...
Now turning my computer on ive got nothing .... Except a 'battery charging flicker', when releasing power button after holding it a long,long time!!!!! PLEASE HELP ME IM STUMPED, OR SIMPLY THE OWNER OF A PAPER WEIGHT? .... ( I did see a green light briefly when I plugged it in, without the round battery. )
Sounds like this procedure corrupted the motherboards bios, and you may have a "paperweight" now for good. Did you re-install the "round" Bios button battery?
Hi, hope I've put enough specs in profile for you to help. I have a Compaq Presario 6735s I bought around 2008. CPU quite slow but graphics card not bad so made decision to upgrade. Looked up the laptop manual here to find compatible CPUs for motherboard, socket type etc. Went through 3 different (*****ic) buys before I found one that actually fitted.
Now with everything reassembled, screen will flash up once upon powering on, then nothing. All usual lights come on, even my wireless connects, makes usual start up noises, fan, dvd drive etc ....
Proceeded to take everything apart again, re-connected everything I tampered with. Even RAM, which I didn't have to remove before.
Still same reaction starting up.
Really frustrated with myself as thought this would be the right one. Could honestly cry, haha.
I read the tutorial on here called 'No POST' to no avail either. I really hope it can come back from this.
One last thing I can think of (before pulling new CPU out) is upgrading BIOS to support new CPU but with no screen I am stuck.
Can someone please give me a little direction?
Did you re-install the old CPU to see if the laptop booted normally again? Upgrading CPU's on laptop motherboards can be a very difficult thing to do. What is supposed to be compatible in reality is not
I have a 9 yr old Desktop PC and my power supply is going out. The one I have is a modular style power supply. Is it required that I replace it with another modular power supply or does it matter?
No, it doesn't matter which one you use. Use whatever type you wish.
I had a completely new experience.
I installed a new R9 280 today.
I have a CORSAIR HX Series HX750 750W 80 PLUS GOLD PSU. ([email protected])
I was running an ATI 6870.
Previously I never heard the PSU. While checking out a game a fan ramped up and I thought it the
R9 280. I thought man that's loud. Through some experimentation I found the R9 280 fan noise was not the problem but the HX 750. I cannot tolerate too much noise from my computer so this PSU has to go.
I know the R9 280 draws more power then the 6870 so the PSU is doing it's job.
My question is: How many watt PSU would I need so it won't ramp up....or are there other considerations I need to focus on as well...besides the +12 rating and wattage.
Thanks for any help
Just get the Rosewill Gold 450w, I think it's on sale.
You won't really find any good passive power supplies.
I've been playing crysis 3 a lot lately and it usually run's my GPU temp around 65-70 degree's ( MSI GeForce GTX 770 4GB TWIN FROZR ) I know the card is suppose to run up to 80 degree's no problem but I was just wondering if I played at these higher temps for 3-5 hours at a time. Would that be to much stress in terms of heat on the GPU ??
I have the Corsair 230T Windowed-BLUE ATX Mid Tower Case> I have just the stock fans in it and I was looking to add more. I was just wondering if people have preference over tower fans ? if so what are some good ones and why ?
Even 85C for extended periods is fine.
I bought a gaming PC, and I am wondering if my graphics cards and the computer itself are pulling to many watts, Will the lighting inside the box put a demand on the power supply??? I am debating about taking them out, I don't even have the lights on anyways I find them a waste they came with the computer I bought
I bought a gaming PC, and I am wondering if my graphics cards and the computer itself are pulling to many watts, Will the lighting inside the box put a demand on the power supply??? I am debating about taking them out, I don't even have the lights on anyways I find them a waste they came with the computer I boughtClick to expand...
Josh*^ - the lights could not possibly be pulling more that 10 watts, at an extreme. Probably they are actually pulling a level that you could not notice before-and-after if you used an actual measurement, such as with the Kill-A-Watt.
Same for fans, and most anything else you plug in or on except video cards.
Everyone: you will spend all kinds of money to have powerful components, and a suitable power supply - so go ahead and get an ACTUAL power draw measurement -
The kill-a-watt is simple to use and read, very simple. it costs $20 or $25.
You can use it on anything you plug into a 120 volt outlet. Vacuum cleaner, hair curler, radio, anything. It tells you exactly how much power is being used. Exactly.
For over a decade, these power calculators have been estimating power needs, and they have been over-estimating by 100% the entire time.
Greetings I ve moved to another country where electricity is not stable and goes high low or even disconnect power failure many times a day So i brought an old UPS i have discovery and connected it to the outlet and connected the PC and the LCD screen to it Sometimes when the electricity goes high down the UPS seems can t regulate fast enough or when the electricity disconnect the UPS can t change to battery mode fast enough so the PC restarts I though the problem is from the UPS so i bought failure during My despite restarts UPS PC power a new one iXA PRO which also has a built in AVR with wide input range of - Vac wide range of input frequency output short circuit protection overload protection and the transfer time My PC restarts during power failure despite UPS is ms I connected the PC and the LCD screen My PC restarts during power failure despite UPS to the new UPS and connected my modem and an external hard to the old one Surprisingly when the electricity went high low or when it disconnected the modem did not reset but my PC restarted which means that the old UPS is still working and the problem is from the PC itself I use My PC restarts during power failure despite UPS a very god power supply Blue Storm - wat so any idea what the problem could be Note When the electricity goes high low or disconnect the PC doesn t actually restart it just half turned off i mean i can still hear the fans rolling but there is nothing on the screen and i have to turn it off then on Note Sometimes when electricity goes high low or disconnect the PC keeps working normally Thanx in advance nbsp
My guess is your power supply in your PC uses active PFC (Power Factor Control) while your uninterruptible power supply is likely rated for a passive PFC.
Hello to all I m going to install Win XP properly port The ps/2 of doesn't work the motherboard on my computer I had win but had some problem with installing the HP printer on it and so I decide to install XP because that printer seems to be installed properly The ps/2 port of the motherboard doesn't work properly on XP Now When I put the XP CD on the CD driver it says press a ker to boot from CD and I press the Enter key now the keyboard works after that within installation time when that I should press Enter to install XP this time the keyboard doesn t work My guess is that the ps port of the case has problem it s old and somewhat has been broad Now what is the solution in your point of The ps/2 port of the motherboard doesn't work properly view please My system manufacturer is quot ECS quot and the system model is quot pl-A quot PS there are two black amp white screens which mobo shows First screen shows the amount of RAM the model of CPU the IDEs and info like these which is common for first screen But the here when I want to enter to BIOS by pressing Del key it seems that keyboard doesn t work so it doesn t go to bios The second black amp white screen shows fewer info and it says quot Press shift-F to configure and when I press these two I can to enter to an environment that seems to not be the BIOS the keyboard here WORKS It has very few options And apparently doesn t have options of manipulating the keyboard settings nbsp
My sister's 13" MBP (2011) died a few hours ago. According to what she told me, she was using it, and then, poof, black screen and no power. She doesn't have the cash at the moment to have it properly checked by a tech, so I did a basic troubleshoot in an attempt to narrow things down.
While the internals are a bit dirty, I didn't see any obvious signs of physical damage (it was relevant to check for this). Furthermore, the machine doesn't seem to respond to any power sources. I tried a couple different power cables and, while the little amber light on the magsafe (sp?) tab will come on briefly, the computer with neither power on nor display a charge on the built-in charge indicator. I will also note that the machine failed while disconnected from an outlet source with a full battery indicated.
My initial conclusions are a) the computer fried itself or b) the battery is toast. Any suggestions?
If no one here can offer any insight, I would post this to the Apple discussion forum. There are usually people there that can diagnose this from just a description so that is your best bet.
So currently I have a modem in the living room Cisco EPC and then it goes all the way to my room to a Cisco WRTG V router Yesterday out of the blue it stopped working This is because I previously had routers in the network Asus and Cisco anyways I decided to disconnect my asus and use only the cisco but the router just won t work I reseted it to it s fabric settings But when I log into it it says the router s IP adress is And hands out IP adresses to my pc such as I have no idea what to do Microsoft Windows Version Copyright c Microsoft Corporation All rights reserved C Users MiKi gt ipconfig all Windows IP Configuration Host Name MiKi-PC Primary Dns Suffix Node Type Hybrid IP Routing Enabled No WINS Proxy Enabled No DNS Suffix Search Router work won't properly List sbb rs Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection Connection-specific DNS Suffix sbb rs Description Intel R V Gigabit Network Connectio n Physical Address - B- - Router won't work properly -B - E DHCP Enabled Yes Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Link-local Router won't work properly IPv Address fe d d ca Preferred IPv Address Preferred Subnet Mask Lease Obtained Wednesday June AM Lease Expires Wednesday June AM Default Gateway DHCP Server DHCPv IAID DHCPv Client DUID - - - - -B -D -EB- - B- - -B - E DNS Servers NetBIOS over Tcpip Enabled Tunnel adapter isatap sbb rs Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix sbb rs Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes IPv Address d abd e a Pref erred Link-local IPv Address fe e a Preferred Default Gateway NetBIOS over Tcpip Disabled Tunnel adapter TO Adapter Connection-specific DNS Suffix sbb rs Description Microsoft to Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes IPv Address ebd bbaa ebd bbaa Preferred Default Gateway c c DNS Servers NetBIOS over Tcpip Disabled C Users MiKi gt This is my ipconfig with the modem and this is with my router Microsoft Windows Version Copyright c Microsoft Corporation All rights reserved C Users MiKi gt ipconfig all Windows IP Configuration Host Name MiKi-PC Primary Dns Suffix Node Type Hybrid IP Routing Enabled No WINS Proxy Enabled No Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Intel R V Gigabit Network Connectio n Physical Address - B- - -B - E DHCP Enabled Yes Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Link-local IPv Address fe d d ca Preferred IPv Address Preferred Subnet Mask Lease Obtained Wednesday June AM Lease Expires Thursday June AM Default Gateway DHCP Server DHCPv IAID DHCPv Client DUID - - - - -B -D -EB- - B- - -B - E DNS Servers NetBIOS over Tcpip Enabled Tunnel adapter Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter isatap BE - - BA - E- B A F Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes C Users MiKi gt nbsp
Have you tried pressing the reset button on the router? (long press)
I have seen this 'reset button' on several router brands/models like tp-link (tl-wr941n, tl-wr740n old version, tl-wr740n newer version), buffalo draft-N routers, cdrking routers (made in china router brand sold in the Philippines).
if the reset process I described is the same as what you typed in your first post, try to manually change the router ip address.
my wimax modem ip address = 192.168.1.1
so for the tp-link wr-740 router, I use ip address - 192.168.0.1
login to your router and change it. if there's any save button, click it. my router prompts me to reboot the router. after a few seconds, the preferred ip address I have chosen is good for use.
(I have hidden my MAC address)
A few years back I was talking with a friend about dust bunnies in a tower & how to keep them out.
I had a somewhat odd idea of using a case covering somewhat like a pillow case to do such. It gets dirty,take it off & put another one on. Much like an air filter in a car. Does that sound ridicules or not?? Just curious.
Might keep 80% of the dust out, but not all would be stopped. Could also get in the way of case cooling, by entrapping heat insde.
I turn-on the power on my laptop and all I see is a cycle of Red, Green, Blue, White, & Black of color on my screen. Computer was working the night before. I do not know much about troubleshooting a computer. Can anyone please give me an advice or guide if this is something I would be able to tinker to work or bring the laptop over for service.
I have a Dell XPS1730 (5 years old) with Nvidia IUPGA5D G84. Recently, upgraded to Windows 7
I appreciate your assistance.
The internal video has died. To verify this you can attach an external monitor and see if the display is normal
So I've got a mostly custom built pc, its motherboard has everything built in(Graphics.etc) but im looking to upgrade to this for graphics:
I have two questions:
1. I have a 500w psu currently, will I have to upgrade, and by how much.
2.how will I take of the built in graphics on the motherboard.
And also, are there any reccomendations for a better psu
Technology:GDDR5 SDRAM, Size:3 GB, Bus Width:384-bit, Effective Clock Speed:6.4 GHz, Width:4.2 cm, Depth:31.1 cm, Package Type:Retail, Height:15 cm, Cables Included:1 x DVI-VGA adapter, Peripheral / Interface Devices:Two 8-pin power connectors, Required Power Supply:750 WClick to expand...
your link clearly states that a 750w PSU is required.
you can use any of these online power supply calculators:
newegg(store) calculator(power supply requirement)
When I power on my Toshiba equium a200-151, the screen lights up but no display at all - even though there is loading activity. I rigged up to my PC monitor and everything is fine - see bios and windows loading etc. Borrowed a spare compatible working screen but same problem. I'm not 100% sure if its the inverter or the ribbon connector - any ideas before I buy a new inverter? Thanks for looking.
I would say that the video cable (ribbon cable) is bad based on what you have tried so far. This cable goes from the motherboard to the LCD display. Did you use the old inverter off the suspect Toshiba when you tried the compatible spare LCD panel?
Hi all. I just bought a graphics card that needs 350 watts and +12v with 20 amps to run. My power supply has to following output:
+5V 22A MAx -12V 1A max
+5V (FP) 2A Max +3.3V 17A max
+12VA 18A max +12VB 18A max
combined power on +12VA and +12VB rails must not exceed 360 watts
Total combined power must not exceed 375 watts
Can it run the card?
Hi, could you please post a little more detail.
Instead of saying graphics card, it would help if you said the actual graphics card.
Instead of power supply, you could say what power supply you have.
Hi there. Since I bought my new mouse and illuminated keyboard, when I use the PC a lot, they have spontaneously been stoping for a period of time and then they work fine. I didn't have this problem before because I had a ps2 keyboard. Now I have USB mouse and keyboard and this happens. I do believe there is a problem with the power management. A friend of mine has the same motherboard and he incurs the same problem. I have a Gigabyte GA-B75M-D3V and here is a printscreen of my bios with the power management tab.
What settings should I change?
I think you'd be able to adjust that power management settings in Windows under
Control Panel>Power Options>Edit Plan Settings>Change Advanced Power Settings>USB Settings
Or in Device Manager>USB Root Hub Properties>Power Management Tab
I've bought a Sound Blaster Recon 3D a year ago.
It works awsome ! But this morning it was off the light and cannot work while plug in any computers.
I am very bored and nervous, I think it was broken down and cannot work anymore.
Am I right ?
Please say NO and help me
Thank you very much.
Hello My sound chip on my board was blew for no reason bad thing only being a month old bored and I am not waiting days to rma it and for me to get it back anyway I managed to pick up a old sound card not sure on the model Motherboard? Work. Not Maybe Did Sound Card that worked fine for three days then stopped outputing audio so I bought a sound card intex cmi that did not have the bit wndows dirvers and everytime I turned the computer off the machine would not detect the card I then I have to press the reset button or turn the system a few times to get the card to be recognized again and I could not also find the drivers for the OS Sound Card Did Not Work. Maybe Motherboard? I checked at the back of the cards box and it says bit pci bus master What does the mean could that be that the card was not compatible for the stystem or could it be the motherboard I tried a nvidia video card in the Sound Card Did Not Work. Maybe Motherboard? PCI-E slot and the card works fine with no faults The sound card was using the PCI slot and I tried every PCI slot My Motherboard asrock fm a x extreme Thanks nbsp
I tested in a very old card from 2001 or 2004 something like that and it appears there's power going through the card so that's the plus.
Maybe it's because I'm using old crap and the sound card model is old?
Is my motherboard compatible with and does it have enough power watts it compatible my Card have power new to & enough with run Is mob Video to run new video card My specs More details about my computer Component Details Processor Intel R Core TM i CPU GHz Memory RAM GB Graphics Intel R HD Graphics Gaming graphics MB Total available graphics memory Primary hard disk GB Free GB Total Windows Home Premium System Manufacturer Gigabyte Technology Co Ltd Model H M-UD H Total amount of system memory GB RAM System type -bit operating system Number Is my mob compatible with new Video Card & have enough power to run it of processor cores Storage Total size of hard disk s GB Disk partition C GB Free GB Total Media drive D CD DVD Graphics Display adapter type NVIDIA GeForce LE Total available graphics memory MB Dedicated graphics memory MB Dedicated system memory MB Shared system memory MB Display adapter driver version Secondary monitor resolution x Primary monitor resolution x DirectX version DirectX Video Card Information Network Realtek RTL D D Family PCI-E Gigabit Ethernet NIC NDIS New Video card info Nvidia G-Force Video Px Video card UPC- Mb PCIExpress X Dual Monitor Support My power supply is watts and on my motherboard now there is only sticks of GB ram Patriot Viper Extreme and nothing else in any of the expansion slots I looked online but cannot get a straight answer Can my motherboard run this card with no issues Thanks I am shine nbsp
No one can say if it will run with no issues, just because there could be any number of complications that could pop up. If you asking will it work with your current system, then yes it will run on your current system with the PSU. I would advise that you uninstall the video drivers (and software) for the current card, changing out to the new card. This will create less of a head ache for you in the end.
I would also suggest trying to find another 2GB ram stick because your motherboard is a Dual Channel motherboard and the computer will run better if you have 4 sticks of ram instead of 3. Its not going to hurt your computer by having 3 sticks of ram versus 4, but you will get better overall performance.
My laptop doesn't work with wifi when I first open it. It will show at the bottom of the screen that it is fully connected and has full bars, but when I open the internet the pages will not open. I must restart the computer and then it will work. How can I fix this?
When the WiFi is active, the laptop NIC should be disabled - - easy - - just unplug the the cable to the router.
I have put together a new build with the Gigabyte Assassin 2 m/board and a Corsair AX 860i PSU. On start up the PSU clicks out and won't run. The PSU Self test is good - green light and the fan is running, however when I connect all the peripherals the PSU just drops out and will not run. I have double checked all connections from the CPU, M/board, memory, graphics cards. This is all in a Thermaltake Level 10 case, my next check will be the hard drive connections - hot swap bays. Any help will be really appreciated.
I hope this is the right section to ask this question in. I'm a big newbie.
I'm having an issue that I have no clue how to solve. There is a specific webpage that I try to view at home with my laptop, and it never loads on Chrome and Firefox, but does on Explorer. But when I take the same laptop to work or school, it does load that website on all browsers. I also have a desktop that stays home, and has the same problem. Its so strange. I don't know if it's a network thing, or an facebook app thing.
I've tried re-installing Chrome, deleting all cookies and caches, disabling all extensions or plugins, and updating Flash and Java. Any ideas?
Mod Note: Facebook game link removed, you are too new to be trusted fully. Problem m ay be solvable without the exact game anyway.
Hey guys I had some contractors doing some work on my house today and they needed to shut the circuit off to the room my computer was in The computer was on at the time so it shut off when the power was cut Now it won t go back on Power button does nothing at all and I don t know if it s the power supply mobo or switch I ve got a power supply tester which causes my computers fans to start up when it s plugged in so the power supply does respond not Power mobo button working... issue? The results are in the attached file It shows LL which means to low to register voltage for the - V line I honestly don t know if I even have that line so I don t know if that s bad I attached the label on my power supply too Would Power button not working... mobo issue? no voltage cause a computer to completely not respond Because the fans DO start up when the power supply tester is plugged in I don t think the switch is the problem because I tried to short the power switch jumpers with a paper clip and nothing happened I also took the CMOS battery out for a while and then tried it again and that didn t work Any ideas on whether I need a mobo or a power supply I don t have an extra PSU around to test with but I may try to find one before ordering a new mobo thanks in advance -mike nbsp
Not the switch. Could be the motherboard or PSU, but I don't have any good insight.
I would unplug the PSU and flip the 120/240V switch to 240V, then flip it back before plugging it in. To me, this doesn't make any logical sense, but over about 16 years of playing with PCs I have seen it work twice.
My brother in law has a got himself a free computer to which I am going to donate my old Sapphire X1950GT graphics card. The problem is, is that I can't easily wire it in to the computer as it has a crappy generic PSU with only one Molex and several Sata power plugs.
What I do have, without slicing and dicing and getting out the soldering iron, is the adaptor cable below. What I don't know is whether this has a sufficient amount of wires I.e. 0V and 12V to provide power to my G/Card.
System power consumption with a Sapphire X1950 GT is less than 250W. I think you will be fine with the splitter mentioned above. You probably don't need much extra power to run the card. I assume there is at least a 300W PSU or greater in the system.
Hello! I live in a college apartment (so no access to router). When I hook up my ethernet cable to my computer, all of my messengers work and are connected but I cannot use internet browsers. I recently reformatted my computer and was using a wireless adaptor, but here the internet is so slow that there's really no point and for a decent connection you need to be plugged into the wall. The wall connection worked fine until I reformatted.
This happened before when I moved to my first college and had to use the ethernet cable. I've done everything from messing around with internet explorer proxy settings and whatnot, but what did work was something I found in a thread. It instructed me to go somewhere and delete a file that was blocking the internet part, I guess? I deleted this setting/file and the ethernet connection worked just fine afterwards. I can't find this thread (probably not on this website) anymore. Does anyone here know possibly what the file was?
Check for optional Windows Updates, specifically a network driver. The most common name is Realtek.
And/or try installing this driver. - Software: Drivers & Utilities
If still no go, which computer do you have?
I am using windows 7 and my webcam is not working,whenever I tried to use to it says "webcam not detected ". even it is absent in device manager and I hope someone will help me to solve the problem.
What is the exact brand and model # of your laptop?
On my pc f12 is the Internet botton I clicked it and airplane mode came on I clicked it again and it wouldent let me connect bk pls help me :/
Did you find the right button to click to get back on the Internet?
Just got the new mouse home, but to enable aim precision and other programmable buttons and need to get the drivers. When I try to download them it says plug in the device, which is already plugged in and I have also tried in different usb ports and safe mode. Anyone with this mouse got it to work?
I have a headset set with a mic. It has 3.5mm plugs for the mic and the speakers. Just recently they stopped working together. What I mean is if I have either one of them plugged in, that one works. If I have both plugged in, the sound manager appears as if neither of them are plugged in. I've tried other headphones with the jacks and get the same result. I've tried reinstalling the driver, doing a system restore and using CCleaner to clean my registry. I've also messed around with just about every setting in the audio manager. Anyone have any ideas? It's odd that they work independently, which leads me to believe that the insertion detection is working just fine.
I have a Toshiba Satellite R845-S95 with Windows 7.
Turn off the insertion detection on realtek. Top-right corner somewhere, from memory.
Hey how's it going. Any help would be great.
Had an older system so got a new motherboard and CPU. Installed it all and then no power when I try to switch it on. The orange modem light comes on but nothing else turns on.
Gpu- GeForce GTX 460
Ram- Kingston DDR 3
Psu- Shaw p4s6 860w.
I also tried putting in one ram card at a time. Taking the graphic card out and using on board. Taking the motherboard out of the case to see if it was shorting out.
Hey how's it going. Any help would be great.
Had an older system so got a new motherboard and CPU. Installed it all and then no power when I try to switch it on. The orange modem light comes on but nothing else turns on.
Gpu- GeForce GTX 460
Ram- Kingston DDR 3
Psu- Shaw p4s6 860w.
I also tried putting in one ram card at a time. Taking the graphic card out and using on board. Taking the motherboard out of the case to see if it was shorting out.Click to expand...
By any chance could you post a picture of your computer as it is hooked up right now so we can see if your missing anything. Try to check if the 4pin/8pin connector on the motherboard is hooked up and check for tightness of all the Motherboard connectors to start with.
Hi im planning to maximuize my fans in my case Phantom But im not sure if My power Supply could Handle it Right now It Running on Phanton Case top MM fans rear mm fans and front mm fans Raidmax RX- K W ATX Power Supply ASRock GM-VGS FX AM w Radeon AMD FX- GHz Quad-Core Processor AMD Stock AM AM w Case Fan GB Supply Power x GB DDR MHz GB SATA Hard Drive DVDROM DVD Reader Power Supply Drive External USB Wireless N Adapter SAPPHIRE R GB DDR WITH BOOST Required watt My system is running fine now even if I put the fans controler into max speed but now im planning to maximize my fans in my case here is the fans status for my case Side x x mm included rpm Front x x mm included rpm Top x x mm included rpm Rear x x mm included rpm Bottom x mm HDD Pivot x mm Question Can my PSU handle everything for my system im also planning to upgrade my ram to gb or What is the Power Supply recommended for my system Or when im planning to upgrade my motherboard what would fit well with my system looking for slot ram or if my watt power supply strong enough to power thermaltake dual frio heatsink Thx you very much for trying to help nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/power-supply.199652/
So, Youtube and other sites work, but with certain embedded video players, clicking the fullscreen button does nothing. The video just remains windowed. This has been a problem for awhile now, and I have been unable to find a solution anywhere, as nobody seems to share my issue. I run Firefox, and have an HP Pavilion laptop. I will upload a screenshot of one of the players that does not work.
Also, I tried disabling hardware acceleration and had no luck.
It is not the website lacking the required code for fullscreen, because this happens on any website running one of these players, and they used to work fine for me.
Other than the video being stretched on my 16:10 display, I had no issues w/ the playback on IE10 & FF26. Have you tried updating Flash plugin, if not the latest, to see if that fixes your problem? Do you have the same problem w/ IE?
Hello all I made a post regarding the performance failing of one of my supply power affect hard performance? drive/computer Faulty hard drives The conclusion we came to has unfortunately not resolved my problem and I am beginning to think my Power Supply may be the culprit Faulty power supply affect hard drive/computer performance? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Before I go into details here is my current Hardware Q GHZ GIGABYTE EP -DS R GB PC mhz x gb x gb Nvidia GTX mb requires x pin power adapters Asus Xonar soundcard requires floppy power adapters Windows x Jeantech W PSU modular PSU PCI-E nodes and nodes for other devices gb HDD operating system tb HDD data tb HDD data tb HDD data - added recently ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ My original problem in brief Upon accessing certain files in one of my TB drives I hear a distictive quot click lockup halt quot sound and then the entire system crashes first the drive will become inaccessible then windows explorer will crash followed by the mouse and eventually a BSOD after a minute ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ I bought a new TB a month ago to replace what then I thought was a failing TB drive Since the problems have become quot random quot and happen across all four drives tb tb gb tb I am now considering my PSU the culprit Jeantech Absolute w It seems logical to me Sometimes while performing tasks which put stress on several HDD s at the same time my computer is quot choking quot running as fast smooth as it should but with sudden freezes with those HDD quot click - stop - restart quot sounds Booting into windows is failing from time to time freezes on the quot starting windows quot screen or DISK BOOT FAILURE Insert system disk The PSU is modular - could certain quot plugs quot in my PSU are faulty I haven t tested this extensively but in some cases when the computer is not starting up at all using different power ribbon cable combinations seems to help Also I had to remove my DVD drive completely when I first installed the new TB I bought and I don t think my computer will start at all with it plugged in anymore so my PSU MUST be having a hard time coping with all the components If it is of any relevance I use an Nvidia GTX which requires x PCI-E pin power connections hard drives power is supplied via THREE modular ribbon power cables - two HDD s share power from the same ribbon cable lastly worth noting I use an asus Xonar sound card requires floppy power connector several symptoms suggest the PSU any thoughts nbsp
a 1000Watt shouldn't have any problem coping with the components that you have, i would recommend that u borrow a power supply from a friend and try it out on your computer, maybe the power supply is old and is not supplying proper voltages on all the rails....
I've been putting together this build as my first gaming PC and I'm wondering will there been any compatibility issues between any of these parts?
My budget is roughly: £500 / $800 / ?600
Any advice is appreciated
That's a pretty sketchy power supply, I wouldn't use it.
That is OK, but I think it would be easier for you if you just got a wifi enabled motherboard.
Hi can anyone help please, I just received my new Plait GTX Nvidia 770 Jetstream card and noticed it came with an 8pin and 6pin power requirement. They provided a 6pin to 8 pin adapter and I have a Corsair 650 TX PSU with 2 6pin power lines problem is the 6 to 8 pin adapter looks like it need both 6pin lines from the PSU to provide the necessary voltage/amps and that still seems to leave me short the other 6 pin port on the GFX card. Do I need to plug both 6 pin attachments in to the adapter or will one suffice?
My bad, silly fool that I am I failed to realize both 6pin PSU power lines also have additionally the other 2pin lines required to make up the 8pin connection right along side. Thought I may need a newer PSU there! LoL
I gave my external hard drive to a friend but his laptop didn't recognize it. after getting it back, I connected it to my laptop but it didn't show up in disk management at all. the drive is receiving power since the light is on. I felt the drive upon connecting to laptop and noticed it tries multiple times to rotate the magnetic disk but in the end it come to a stop and nothing after that. I think my friend's laptop somehow damaged my drive since I'm sure it's a hardware problem.
So, I was wondering maybe any of you guys have an idea how to fix it if possible otherwise, I'd like to know if I can recover the data without spending for the experts?
Hey armmzd. Sure sounds like a drive gone bad, and assuming you know it was good when you gave it to him,maybe it was dropped,etc. All I can suggest is going to the drive manufacturer's site and see if they have a drive diagnostic tool you can try.
Hi guys I ve spent today building a pc for myself However on pressing the on button there s no reaction at all My machine specs are M B - Gigabyte GA- A-UD Processor - AMD RAM - Corsair Gb DDR Case - Zalman Z Graphics card - Gigabyte HD PSU - Corsair CX M W Wi-fi card also installed but can t remember the name and seem to have temporarily lost the box in a pile of packaging So far I ve checked the CPU and motherboard power sockets the wall plug sockets and the power cord to my PSU I ve also checked the connections between my case and the motherboard and these all appear to be correct on power build PC doesn't As part of this final point I switched the power on LED with the power button they both originate from the same location so thought they may be mixed up Anyhows I got a solid LED which suggests to me that a there s power running through the switch circuit and b the pc isn t booting when told to as a PC build doesn't power on solid LED would indicate PC build doesn't power on circuit completion which would be the equivalent of holding in the on button If anybody could shed any light on where to go next I d be eternally grateful currently searching the house for a paperclip to test the PSU nbsp
Does the CPU and case fans move at all, when pressing the power button?
I have a printer
There is no lighting up
The power supply give
red wire about 7 V
blue wire about 11 V
Holding down the power button en stop/reset won't work
How can I test the logic board is defect?
Image logig board