Hi all I am having a strange problem with my PC I have a year old motherboard Leadtek Winfast K nCR D Pro and a new Athlon XP and new x GB corsair value memory - PC slot issue weird Resets sticks My PC is randomly resetting itself even sitting at the bios screen just as though the reset button had been pressed I disconnected all the drives and it still happens I have installed a new PSU and it still happens This is the bit that confuses me I PC Resets - weird memory slot issue have three dimm slots one black two blue for dual channel If I put either of the chips only in the black slot I get NO problems at all If I put either of the chips only in either of the blue slots it randomly resets this happens whether I have a single chip in one of the blue slots or both chips in both blue slots Obviously when there is only one chip in one blue slot the bios does not show dual channel enabled Is there any difference in the way a motherboard deals with the memory in the blue slots which could indicate a problem with the memory or is it likely the motherboard is dying Thanks for your help nbsp
I recommend downloading and running Reimage. It's a computer repair tool that has been proven to identify and fix many Windows problems with a high level of success.
I've used it in the past to identify and fix everything from blue screens (BSOD's), ActiveX errors, corrupt files and processes, dll/exe/sys errors, recover lost memory, Windows update problems, defragging, malware removal etc.
You can download it direct from this link http://downloadreimage.com/directdownload.php. (This link will automatically start a download of Reimage that you can save to your computer.)
Assuming the RAM is correct for your PC go into BIOS and set DRAM or RAM or whatever your RAM is listed under to Auto, reboot and see if that helps. ALso, make sure that you have the RAM in the correct slots for DDR (probably the two blue as you stated).http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/pc-resets-weird-memory-slot-issue.27567/
Intel and Micron held a joint press conference earlier today to announce a breakthrough memory technology called 3D Xpoint (pronounced 3D crosspoint) that's up to 1,000 times faster (read speeds) than today's NAND, features 1,000 times better endurance and is...
I hope this really brings about the death of the hard drive. And it can't come soon enough.
Gimme a 1 TB Xpoint SSD that doesn't break the bank and I'm sold.
Hi everyone A few days ago I replaced my cpu motherboard and hdds on my system OLD System main components Case Antec v Cpu i Mobo Asus onboard realtek mobo low crackling) bk volume (very ud3h sound ac1150 issue - and Gigabyte p x d-e RAM corsair vengence gb x GPU Zotac GTX Boot drive Intel Gigabyte ud3h bk mobo - realtek ac1150 onboard sound issue (very low volume and crackling) gb ssd Win HDD WD TB black New System main components Case Antec v Cpu i k Mobo Gigabyte z x - ud h-bk RAM corsair vengence gb x GPU Zotac GTX Boot drive Samsumg evo gb ssd Win HDD WD Gigabyte ud3h bk mobo - realtek ac1150 onboard sound issue (very low volume and crackling) TB black I was able to clone the ssd and hdd samsung migration for ssd and Easeus todo backup for hdd Initally I had some driver conflict when I Gigabyte ud3h bk mobo - realtek ac1150 onboard sound issue (very low volume and crackling) booted up the computer on the new mobo I managed to uninstall all the old drivers and then used the driver cd to install the mobo drivers and even updated all of them to the latest version I The conflict I m still having is with the back panel audio for the onboard sound I get very low volume and and crackling at certain frequencies tried on both my generic creative speaker and Audio technical headphones When I m plugging in the speaker into the green port and have it plugged in half way or accidentally touch the jack to the I o plate I get really strong loud static noise Here is the list of solution that I tried with no success Updated the Realtek HD Audio Manager app I e the one installed from the driver cd to the latest one Used DPC latency checker and it is showing all greens didn t test it for more than a minute though should I be doing something while the app is on to test for interference Installed Generic Realtek driver for ac codec Disabled C E and EIST in the bios Played with the equalizers on Realtek HD Audio Manager helped to reduce bit of static but its still there and the volume is still very low Disabled all line in devices Checked audio with a ubuntu live cd and the problem still persists does this indicate a hardware issue What I find strange is that my front panel that is connected to the HD audio pins on the motherboard works fine with the same speaker and headphones I still have some more solutions I need to test out like Update the bios currently on F version the latest is F I have a spare asus xonar dg PCI so will try to install it and test if audio will works fine But this is not a permanent solution as I only have one PCI slot which I m using for my wireless card adapter Edimax g Run Memtest can this ever be a problem for sound related issues Driver Sweeper I believe I have properly manually uninstalled all the mobo drivers but going try this app to be sure Can someone please point me in the right direction on how to solve this This is the first time I m installing replacing a mobo and cpu so should check if there is a wiring issue when I replaced all the parts back into the case Please let me know if more information is need to help resolve this I have a few more days left incase I have to RMA the mobo so any pointers would really be helpful before I decide to send it back if at all TIA Sreejit S nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/gigabyte-ud3h-bk-mobo-realtek-ac1150-onboard-sound-issue-very-low-volume-and-crackling.217321/
Can someone give me an advice, I want to use the very high setting for GTA 5, but the video memory indicator indicates that I go overboard the 2GB of my GTX 750 TI, is that safe?.
BTW my resolution is 1366x768 only.
My samsung 16GB memory card is not getting detected in my laptop.
Even if I connect through my phone data card it's not detected. But it is working properly in my phone. I have been using it for 2 years.
Have you tried it on other computers?Click to expand...
yes, even then it is not getting detected
Memtest and other memory test software don't tell you which of the modules is the faulty one. Is there any way to tell which is the bad stick besides testing one-by-one?
Not really. but you can test each stick one by one
Many in the PC gaming world are turning their attention to AMD's upcoming Radeon R9 300 series launch and specifically, the R9 390X. According to the latest scuttlebutt, this card will ship with two different SKUs - an air-cooled version...
Having to resort to water cooling just to be on par with nvidia what a joke
amd with their hot running primitive brute force gpus
My friend's USB flash memory has data (its drive shows that there is data in it) but when I double click on it to open it and see the contents, it doesn't show any folders and files! I did the following works:
1- I scanned it by my updated kaspersky AV. but no threat found
2- Scanned by windows defender tool. same result!
3- scanned by malwarebytes anti-malware. same.
4- cmd (run as administrator) -> go to its drive (e.g., H:, when H is my flash drive) and typing the attarib -s -h *.* /s /d command. It could not to show the data.
All my attempts faced failure till now.
Can anyone help me please?
Go to cmd (run as administrator) -> go to its drive (e.g. H: where H is my flash drive) and type the attrib -s -h *.* /s /d
Now flash will show the data.
Your attrib spelling was wrong correct them
I have a HDMI cable for my monitor, with a nvidia graphic card...
but now I have a big doubt, I dont know if my motherboard's graphic card's imput is not working anymore or if its my graphic's card after a FLASHY BLACKOUT today...
my nvidia control panel is not working anymore... whenever I try using VGA or HDMI with my graphic card it doesnt show any sign in the screen... so im currently using my normal VGA motherboard's imput...
I tried using an old graphic card and its not working, I tested the VGA cable and HDMI cable and they are working perfectly...
yet, after I set the graphic card in the slot, the fan it start working, if I unplug the graphic card but leave the curent cable, it doesnt start the fan so I guess the motherboard's imput is working
so idk what's the problem here, I have all the drivers and everythign was working perfectly before the blackout
Well... its too late and soon for expect an answer but...
I tested my graphic card in an old motherboard and it was working... it didnt load windows cuz of the diferent motherboard but connecting my VGA in my gpu worked, and the HMDI didnt work I guess because it need to be configured after windows loading etc
I need some professional help.
R9270x BY XFX
NOW, without the graphics card the computer runs fine. When I install the ddriver's for the r9 it will work, but eventually the display driver stopped working makes its way back.
I've ran all diagnostics on the memory and checked temperstures which all turned out to be fine.
I sent the card into xfx and they returned it saying it's fine.
WTF DO I DO MATES. I think it's the card....but that's just me.
As the title implies I m currently having issues the first major issue is that my PC is turning on off and which the second is that my other hard drive suddenly up and Issue Invisible & HDD Computer Grounding disappeared on me My computer started to turn on and off on me for no reason while I was trouble shooting my initial problem of the HDD when I fiddled around inside my case Eventually ripping everything out of the case and quot card-boarding quot the motherboard which it worked and stayed on and as I gradually put everything back together it was all good until I sat the motherboard back onto the brass copper studs that sits inside the frame and screwed it in At that point my computer started to turn on and off again which lead me to believe it s some manner of a grounding issue Computer Grounding Issue & Invisible HDD I have no clue on what to do at this point about going about this should I just get a new case made of plastic My current full tower case is all steel While I was watching a movie which was stored on my second hard drive is started to freeze lag repeat all that good stuff on me It froze my computer up completely and I was force to hard reset the computer when I booted my PC back up I found that my second hard drive had up and vanished on me So I went into my bios and saw it quot working quot I switch to ACHI to see if it ll make a difference but I got a BSoD so I left it at IDE At that point my computer gave me the option to quot repair windoe files quot or start normally Both options made my computer get stuck on the loading screen thankfully safe mode boots up fine So what could had caused this and how may I go about fixing it nbsp
I also swapped out the PSU with a spare I had lying around, didn't get any power from it so I reused my old one. Now I don't have power from that one either. So besides the "missing" HDD and a suddenly a "no longer working PSU "I'm assuming the motherboard is bad, opinions?
Hi to all at Techspot. I'm not a techie but noticed that there was two kinds of memory, DDR3 and DDR5. My Question is,
What's the difference between DDR3 Memory and the Graphics DDR5 Memory and if the DDR5 is in anyway better then why is it not used for desktop computer memory instead of DDR3.
I know some apps are taking advantage of or utilizing graphics memory Thanks for any explanation
As far as I know, memories used on video cards have different characteristics than memories used on PC.. since this is beyond my knowledge, I'm sorry I can't explain much more in details.. Just wait for other members with deeper knowledge that can give some information regarding of this matter
Ever since I setup a KVM switch to have 2 computers sharing 1 monitor/keyboard/mouse, I have had monitor problems.
There is a subtle but noticeable wobble/ wavey-ness thing happening across the screen when connected to one of my computers (my AMD).
Also, my display (with AMD computer) has a stretched horizontally look. I have tried different screen resolutions but they all give this stretched look which I didn't have before.
And my AMD used to give 1920 x 1080 as an option for max resolution, but this is now capped at 1600 x 1200.
Please help as this is very annoying & looks awful. The specs of the KVM switch say "Max. Resolution: 1920 x 1440. Bandwidth: 200MHZ"
My AMD computer:
Windows 7 64 bit SP1.
AMD Athlon II X4 620 2.6GHz.
Video card ATI Radeon HD 4350
What is the make and model of the KVM switch you purchased? I have tried lower quality switches at my work and found similar results. Ended up having to get one of the more expensive / better brand ones that solved the issues.
My Dell has been acting up pretty recently (6 months old and still under warranty), and the battery does not charge past 80%. Once it get's near the 80% charge, it immediately fills up to 100%.
I've remembered using the laptop for more than 6 hours under moderate use but now it barely lasts 2 hours.
Please give me some advice because I'm really dependent on this laptop.
You have 6 or 8 cells battery. If 6 it's normall. Should work about 2-max 3 hours when new. On 8 cells could work till 5 h.
Producers give only 6 months of warranty on bateries
I recently got this amazing p monitor for my custom rig and I love it Well most of it There is this problem with the backlight where when the monitor turns on after a while of inactivity the backlight turns on Monitor Backlight ASUS an with Issue VK-248h for a split second Issue with an ASUS VK-248h Monitor Backlight then suddenly goes very dim Issue with an ASUS VK-248h Monitor Backlight The brightness setting Issue with an ASUS VK-248h Monitor Backlight is unchanged kept at a solid yet it s a quarter as bright as it should be I can go into the menu and change the brightness and I can tell faintly that it does adjust but never up to the proper level To remedy the issue I repeatedly turn the monitor off and on until the display finally lights up properly and it stays that way for the entire time I am using it At the start of the session in which I write this post I had to do this at least times before it worked so I finally decided to really look into this problem It seems this is a unique issue as I found absolutely no matching posts on the interwebs by searching with the all-mighty Google Search Is there anyone that can provide some insight as to why this occurs and or how to fix it Thanks for your time nbsp
New theory: Bad capacitors... somewhere. Possibly power supply
After a day at work, observing some coworkers working on used LCD TVs (and working on one myself), I now understand quite a bit more about such things.
I had removed the display from my setup and left it on the floor for a few days. Today, I decided to try it again. The backlight started up perfectly fine, surprisingly. The ASUS screen showed for a couple seconds, then went off, as normal. Then, when it's supposed to activate the selected display input, it shows the screen for just long enough to get half a frame drawn, then goes completely black. Turning monitor off and on repeatedly, and trying different input methods, gave same result. I got it to work once, but at that time the backlight had gone too dim again.
I think now I might know how to fix it, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to take the dang thing apart! Lol.
My system has starting to slow down and sometimes stop when on the net. Seems to be when waiting for a reply to a request like opening a web site. When opening my email I have to wait for a minute because when the page opens and I start to type the screen go blank and the page will redisplay....any thing that I typed will be gone. System is running on an ethernet cable. More problems seems to be when I back page it will take some time before the page will display. Has at times just hang and will not go back.
Another weird problem is when I try to download Flash Player it will not let it download. Just hangs and does nothing.
These program are more on Chrome than on Firefox. Also when I send it my work timesheet Chrome will not display the reply from my company but Firefox will. AT&T has run several test on the DSL line and said all is OK. Eithernet card problem maybe? I am beginning to think maybe a complete system failure is coming.
BTW...Lap top runs fine on wireless.
Disable all browser extensions and add-ons, quit the browser and relaunch it
I'm working on a XP machine. I think its slowness when installing apps (and also when its installation) is because of the HDD issue. Maybe there are bad sectors. I know that using C:\ drive properties -> tools, I can test the C: drive for bad sectors. But how to see the results!? It's wants me to restart the PC. Is there any log file after finishing of the test?
Is there any better way to find and solve the issue please?
The better way is to run a true diagnostic utility like SeaTools. Run a Long Generic test on the drive and see what happens (this will take a while).
For the past month, Nvidia has faced its fair share of bad PR thanks to the GeForce GTX 970's memory allocation issue. As has been uncovered by users and explained by Nvidia, the GTX 970's last 512 MB of VRAM...
Again: the performance didn't change overnight; it's today the same performance than the advertised on launch date. Even that technicality can kill the case. Specifications were the "misleading" part.
The $35 Raspberry Pi 2 launched earlier this month sporting a wealth of upgrades and apparently, one of the most peculiar hardware bugs in recent memory.
Reminds me of what a big solar flare could do.
Hi forum I have changed my power supply because my ex power supply involved in the problem specs was Watt Watt Real model GP B Green with that before it crash down my system was boot up correctly after I hit the Power On button on top of my chassis since a few days ago that I ve bought a new PSU with this spec Green Watt Real OC edition model GP B GOLD plus Gold now the problem is every time I want to turn on my PC first it doesn t boot up but it s powered on and all hardware are in correct position and nothing s weird just actually do nothing until I push or times Reset button or Power button from chassis and then after a while when it re-started again everything goes well and system will boot up perfectly note - new results and experience I decided to have had some tests so I told by myself let s check the computer when it s powered off recently and I did uninterrupted turn it back ON again so it worked I tried several times to power On and power Off shutting down from windows and it worked so I get that when my machine is powered off for half an hour or maybe several hours then it should be handle after my problem PSU changing Weird this problem Weird problem after changing my PSU which I mention and This test was a huge leap in my opinion pluralization - I m thinking maybe it refers to my new and fresh PSU maybe it has a new system delay interrupt or maybe optional Weird problem after changing my PSU setting that can help through this - maybe the problem is related to the cables I m not sure because I double checked the cables and all connections before - if problem is related to the Capacitors so in this case Capacitors are usually swollen but there is no sign of this condition I also double checked Capacitors for assurance - especially this PSU is the best kind of high power supplies and it s new no sign of ripple noise or any suspicious signs of its internal hardware - so we can say no MOBO suspicious no PSU suspicious no Graphics suspicious anything but only RAM at this point we can say maybe problem is refers to the RAM modules because I haven t test it yet and I hope it is nothing to worry - according to recent test we can assuming there should be a common setting or case that helping us through this because if there was a problem with any kind of hardware then why when I test it repeatedly ON OFF uninterrupted there was no sign of a problem and one more thing remember not to there is no sign or overheating of any kind of my hardware too I m always aware about this any help will appreciate in advance Thanks System Specs OS - Win Enterprise x CPU - i Video - GTX Mobo - Asus P X D Premium x chip RAM - GB Corsair XMP x GB MHz nbsp
Any suggestion ? HELLOOOO?anybody's home?game time..
Hi All I have a strange one here I connect to the net via my Belkin router nothing special about the setup of the router My main pc however I have configured to use a static IP for downloading purposes I have used the same IPV settings for a number of years with no dramas Last night I switched on the PC and connected to the Internet but after a few minutes I got the no internet connection symbol yellow triangle I am connected via networking plugs also so tried the see if they were the issue but they are fine I ran the windows troubleshoot wizard and it came back with Your computer is trying to use a DNS server that is incorrect or doesn t exist I removed my static IP details and tried to connect by obtaining IP details automatically but this had no effect I used my phone s internet connection DNS Issue to google this DNS Issue and was advised to try which I then reinput my static ip details but this time putting the google dns settings and I can connect to the net The wierd thing is that my wifi will not connect to the net my DNS Issue question really is do I need to update the DNS setting in my router in order to get wifi working or should I be flushing DNS on pc the wifi is for my Ipad so not a lot DNS Issue I can do on that to connect Making my brain ache a bit sorry for the long post any help or advice would be appreciated Arvon nbsp
Yes, you can set the DNS addresses in the router manually and then every device connected to that router will inherit your settings when they are configured to you DHCP
Samsung has started mass producing what's being called the industry's first ePoP, or embedded package on package. By combining two key smartphone elements into a single package, Samsung's solution promises to offer high-end handset makers up to 40 percent more space.
It's the natural progression of tech right now.
Hello all...I'm having problems with my Dell PC. I just purchased a sweet new scanner (ScanSnap SV600) and when I scan a lot of pages at once, I get an error message saying I'm out of storage and to restart the computer. The specific code given is 0x8007000E. I've also been noticing when I run a few web tabs at once, sometimes they just go black and I need to restart the browser. It has 8GB of RAM and all the drivers are updated. Anything I'm missing? Thank you kindly!
Dell Optiplex 790
Win 7 Pro
How much storage space do you have? From what I could research this error is tied to programs demanding a great deal of memory. You say this occurs when trying to scan a lot of pages at once. Does this occur when scanning less material at once? Have you tried updating your drivers for the scanner?
I m doing this on my Toshiba laptop at the moment and you ll see why later in this post Earlier today I acquired an ASUS Z C notebook and had noticed that the keyboard is acting rather strange Certain keys will also register other keys when pressed Here s which ones react this ASUS Issue Z54C/X54C Mapping Keyboard way letters are not case sensitive U will also register Zero will register registers registers R W registers S ASUS Z54C/X54C Keyboard Mapping Issue I I places a Date Stamp this might be the problem There may be others but I d like to move on to the behavior the way this behaves is if I press the key U then quot u quot or quot U quot will show up depending on ASUS Z54C/X54C Keyboard Mapping Issue if I press Shift or not The same thing happens if I press the key This is the same for all others if I press one or the other of these keys in question the other appears with it At first I thought this was a problem with the copy of Windows that was installed so I installed Windows Tech Preview I was going to do so anyway However this behavior did not go away Looking for help and I d be more than happy to resolve this problem I should note that not all keys behave this way but that the majority of them work fine It s just that this should not be happening to begin with I ve also pulled the keyboard out and inspected it I didn t see any dried fluids or any obstructions in the keys Should I perhaps consider replacing the keyboard Sadly I have no USB keyboards to see if the behavior is isolated to the laptops primary keyboard although using the On-Screen Keyboard doesn t elicit this behavior nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/asus-z54c-x54c-keyboard-mapping-issue.208302/
Have an unusual mark on screen at startup then green lines and pink but otherwise pc ok cannot upload jpeg image for some reason
HI all I am having problems detecting the Xonar Pheobus and have tried all and 5 Rampage Asus Phoebus Xonar issue Asus Extreme the pcie slots with no luck Red and the grey - even the shorter grey slot Have disabled the motherboard s HD onboard Asus Xonar Phoebus and Asus Rampage 5 Extreme issue sound too and still not detected in my devices The pcie cable is connected to the sound card and I have enough PSU to power all - Enermax W When the card is inserted to the grey slots - The red light Asus Xonar Phoebus and Asus Rampage 5 Extreme issue is seen through the control extension box Headphone Microphone Connector Asus Xonar Phoebus and Asus Rampage 5 Extreme issue box jack ports However the green light is NOT seen AND the Xonar Phoebus logo on the card itself is lit powered up However when I insert the card into the red pcie slots these lights are not on One this else I noticed is the card DOES go warm over some time so tells me it is not switched off I tried to install the driver and I get a message no card detected etc etc Is there anyone kind enough to advise me their BIOS settings etc who has managed to get the Xonar to work properly Did you have to adjust any BIOS settings from default to get the card to be recognised Printscreens would be cool if it is not too much of a bother Thank you in advance Kind regards Killershadow nbsp
The question(s) I have is ->
Am I missing anything when attempting to install the sound card? I have tried with no GPU drivers (including the Nvidia sound for the GTX 750 ti sc) / disabled onboard HD sound and still the sound card not detected.
Even in this motherboard, it should detect the sound card regardless of what sound source is set as default and then allow me to install it and set it as default (without messing about with the BIOS)?
Maybe my sound card has died when moving it from the last computer - Static death.....................
Hello All I am having a bit of a strange issue that I have with CPU Motherboard or Strange issue never run into before Yesterday after getting home from the store I booted up my PC and started to play a game although I noticed that I was getting framerate stuttering It seemed to keep dropping a lot throughout my play So I started taking a look at some of my sensor utilities Strange issue with CPU or Motherboard When I opened Asus Probe II I noticed that it was telling me that one of my chassis fans weren t running Okay no problem it must have gone bad I than took at look at the frequency and noticed that my AMD FX- was only running at GHz per core I also checked CPUZ and had the same results So I booted to the bios just to take a look and noticed that it show my Chassis fan WAS running fine and that my frequency was at GHz per core as it should So I though that it must be a fluke Booted back into windows and again same issues So I shutdown and took the side off my case which is also where the Chassis fan it said was running is located Turned the computer back on and noticed the fan was running fine I logged into windows and noticed that seconds after windows logs in that one chassis fan turns off and the CPU underclocks to GHz multiplier All of the other fans in my case still running perfectly GPU running fine HDD s running fine Could it be possible that Asus probe II itself is underclocking my CPU If so what would be causing the fan to shut off My first thought was power-supply but I have no issues when stressing my hardware even in this state I am an IT consultant but have not run into this issue before Any help would be greatly appreciated PC Specs- ASUS m a r Motherboard AMD FX- CPU CoolerMaster HYPER N CPU Cooler Kingston HyperX Blu GB x Galaxy Geforce GTX Ti OC w PowerSupply Cougar Evolution Full Tower Case Samsung gb SSD Let me know if you need any other information nbsp
CPU temperature too high?
So I have a Toshiba Portege r500 with no H/d & a second one for parts. When I went to take the H/D and pop it in I realized the H/D hook-up cables are different. The "parts laptop" has a "FMUSH1" cable connecting it to the sata drive. The newer Portege has a cable labeled " FMUPH2" (I'm assuming for an SSD?)
My Question is....Can easily swap them somehow or is there an adapter/converter possibly?
Thanks in advance for any possible help!
So with more research I'm thinking I have a ZIF Tape (Cable) that previously connected to a 1.8 SSD which I now need to convert to a 2.5 sata connection.
I ordered a 24-Pin ZIF to SATA Adapter Connector Card off eBay. It comes with its own "ribbon" (Tape/cable whatever) as shown in the pic. Will I need to replace the ZIF from my mobo with it? or is it simply in case "you" need it?
Also just wondering could I have swapped out the sata ribbon (Fmush1) with the ZIF ribbon (Fmuph2) where they connect to the MoBo instead? (It's extremely difficult to get to on this model and the "clips" seem very fragile so I avoided attempting it)
My pc was getting heated nd fan was a bit noisy.
so cleaned my fan in a shop .when I returned home hardly 10 min my pc worked then shut down
again I went der he saw fan was not moving he pushed it a bit nd it started moving it worked for me till this this evening but again when I shut it down fr a while it gave me the same issue I removed the keypad tried to move the fan with my fingers nd its working now .....
whats the main issue
The fan is old and needs to be replaced.
So I ve owned my P HM gaming laptop for around years now and for the most part I haven t had any issues However when I start my laptop it always defaults to booting off of the ethernet card even after switching my SSD to the position in the bios menu Normally this isn t that much of an issue as I can just cycle through the bios boot options using CTRL Laptop Boot issue ALT DEL The main issue that I am having now is that the last time I was using my laptop I used hibernate instead of the normal quot sleep quot or quot standby quot Now whenever I attempt to start my laptop up the message quot Resume from hibernate quot is on my screen which is normal except it tries to resume using the ethernet card If the laptop is in hibernate evidently I am not able to access the BIOS menu or cycle through my boot drives I have read that a way to fix this Laptop Boot issue might just be taking the battery out and letting any residual power that the motherboard might be running off of fade away over time I read that this normally only takes minutes or so I tried waiting minutes and it Laptop Boot issue didn t work so I just tried again but waited a few hours this time before putting the battery back in and attempting to start my laptop up The laptop is still attempting to boot from hibernate Does anyone know of any way to get to the BIOS menu from the hibernate screen Or does anyone know of anyway to fully shut off my laptop Laptop Boot issue to get rid of hibernate and just start up normally Any assistance would be greatly appreciated nbsp
it always defaults to booting off of the ethernet cardClick to expand...
This means that BIOS is not seeing any HD, marked Active and contains a bootable partition
1 4gb samsung pc3-12800 1.35 v
1 4gb nanya pc3-10600 1.5 v
The timings are listed different on the stick.
HWInfo reports that at 666.7 both are 9-9-9-24
Crucial will sell me all 1.35 v memory as upgrades and the 4830T-6678 Timeline X came with the [email protected]
The laptop boots and runs with both sticks installed
Any thoughts on this?
Is the laptop reporting 8GB of memory installed? If it is, you should be okay
I cloned my failing hard drive (a 160gb) to a new one (500gb). The installation seemed to go smoothly enough (it was my first time though) as it just required me to stay grounded and remove about 4-5 screws. When I loaded the PC up it wouldnt start the first time so I had to a Windows repair, which didn't seem to do anything except now it worked (it said it failed or something). I then had an issue with Windows 7 claiming to not be genuine although for one reason or another that stopped. Now my issue is that I am unable to access the additional memory of my new hard drive, I am able to access the cloned portion but not the rest (about 316gb). Any help would be appreciated, my PC is a Dell Latitude E6400 if that helps.
It is absolutely normal not to see the rest of the free space in the moment. When you clone a drive you create the exact same image of old drive on the new one. This includes the size of the original HDD. However if you go to Disk Management ( type diskmgmt.msc in the search in the start menu and hit enter) you will see that you have one partition of 160GB and the rest of the space will be listed as unallocated. To use it you have two options ? you can create a second partition or you can extend the original one to take all the available space.
To create a new second partition just right-click on the unallocated space and select ?New Simple Volume?. This will starts a wizard to guide you through the rest of the process. First it will ask about the size of the partition. To use all the remaining space just type in the same value you have for Maximum disk space. Click Next.
Then you will get to choose and available drive letter to assign to this partition. Choose one and click Next.
Then you get to the Format partition window. You should choose ?Format volume with the following settings: ?. For the file system is best to leave NTFS. Allocation unit size as default. You can also put a label for the volume here. Then tick the box for ?Perform a Quick Format. ? Click Next. Then Click Finish. And you're done.
If at any point Windows pops up with the following message ?The operation selected will convert the disk to dynamic... are you sure you want to continue? ? click NO as this will most probably make your Windows unbootable and you will have to reinstall it.
If you want to extend the existing partition right-click on 160GB partition and select ?Extend Volume?. It will start the wizard and will only ask about how much space to add. Just select the maximum available space here and click Next, then click Finish. Once done your existing partition will be bigger and you'll be able to use all the space on your new HDD.
Hope that helps.
I need help Okay so I hooked up all my parts last night with issue 560ti Crosshair and Video V Asus GPU to my ASUS Crosshair Formula V mobo and Video issue with Asus Crosshair V and 560ti GPU when I boot it will not show any video whatsoever No beeps no video no nothing I have a ti in there right now because I wanted to test it before my new came in that I ordered yesterday Video issue with Asus Crosshair V and 560ti GPU just wanted to see if the mobo was functional and all my other components were working Does anyone know why I would be getting no video I was thinking maybe I need to reset Video issue with Asus Crosshair V and 560ti GPU the CMOS Some people told me to check the BIOS but how do I do that if I have zero video on my screen Any help would be great as I am at wit s end with this stupid computer it has not run right since I moved and it is extremely frustrating putting all this time and money into this thing with no results I used to have a Corsair Liquid CPU cooler but the pump died and I finally got fed up with Liquid Coolers and went with a Noctua heat sink instead Going to do some more testing after work but was hoping to get some tips from you guys I have other ti s I can test to see if that card is just dead but it was like midnight and just decided to give up for the night last night Also My motherboard doesn t have an on-board video port I don t believe I see none at least My PC was up and running with drivers loaded for this exact card before it went down the computer has just been sitting there for months I am using the same hard drive only thing that has changed is the Noctua cpu cooler being in place of the now dead Corsair H All the fans are running the video card fan is running the psu fan is running so it seems like everything is getting power Any help would be greatly appreciated If you need more info please let me know nbsp
Let's do this one step at a time, first no part of any computer lasts for ever. U said u had 2 other video cards, first, see if either one of them will work. If that does not work, it could be the slot in the mother board, try an other X16 slot. but honestly to me it sounds like the mother board is not working if u have a speaker plugged into it and assuming the speaker is working because normally there would be beeps if the motherboard is not sending a video signal.
Hey, so I have an OCZ ZT 750 and its one of the units which runs 100% fan noise when ever im doing anything that requires the GPU, ive seen you can run the fan into a molex with a resistor to keep it constant, but what I want to do is, run it to my fan controller, just so I can ramp the fan up if needed, rather than nailing down the performance.
What I found is the fan is a 2 Pin connector, but fan controllers run 3 pins, am I able to run the 2 pin into the 3 pin on the fan controller and have control over it, or does the 3rd pin need to be connected for it to work?
I have a very strange problem with my sound card and Here is the details ....
My sound Card was working well the day before ...I was just recording from line in and running the audio recorded from line in and no problems occurred ...
Next Day I found that there is no sound and the speaker and the line in and microphone all not working and showing that they were "Not Plugged In"
I tried to reinstall the driver and I even tried to reinstall the windows But this was useless . I also installed the new driver but didn't work
the sound manager showing that they are working fine but ther are not plugged in
and the weird thing is that the optical port "which is part of the sound card " is working fine this means that the sound card isn't faulty or burnt out ??
this is the picture
please Help me .........
thanks in advance
Is it that you have selected Digital Audio (S/PDIF) as 'default'. so the speakers cannot be, at the same time.
Right click on 'Speakers' icon, is there an 'Enable' option?
Most of memories, RAM, ROM, HDD, DVD-RAM and others are
random access. What are some non random access memories please?
I plan on upgrading the ram on an older laptop.
It comes with IGB DDR2 PC2-4200 533MHz SODIMM, can I add
IGB DDR2 667MHz SODIMM to the spare slot and will it detect it?
Thought I'd ask before attempting!
Hard to say, there is only one way to know, that is to try. I'm assuming you have the modules in question. Otherwise I would suggest buying modules of the same specs to increase chances of compatibility.
I just finished assembling my first build. At first it turned on without a hitch, was able to install windows and a few drivers.
I had to restart a few times, which went fine for the first few times, and then it just didn't boot back up. The power button doesn't do anything, the fans don't start, nothing happens.
When I jump the psu, all the fans start, so I'm thinking the issue must be with the mobo..
Here's a list of all the parts I'm using : http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/JFVvD3
First, are any wires touching that might be causing a short such as a wire touching the back of the mobo? Second, I had something similar happen to me a few years ago with a new build. There is a tried and true though often tedious way that can help diagnose possible issues.
1. Remove all hardware except for one RAM stick from the motherboard and this includes Sata and fan connections to peripherals such as your SSD, etc,
2. Now see if the system boots with only the one RAM stick. If it boots then shut down add the second stick of RAM and then reboot. If it boots then repeat by adding a piece at a time.
3. If is doesn't boot then it is either your mobo or your power supply. Also, check to see if your heat sink is seated correctly.
BTW, nice little system there.
My brothers schoolwork laptop is frozen the problem occured like 2 days ago were the laptop seemed to be freezing for a couple of minutes and now when he trys to switch it on
Bios is not booting up.
and the only options he gets is launch in repair safe mode and start windows normally. which end up both the same in a black screen and a little black cursor with nothing to do but move the cursor.
after this happened my first reaction was for a complete format so I tried to install him a new copy of windows but my bootable device isnt even being recognized by the system it always ends up in the same screen for the windows startup.
edit ok so I dug a little more.psh..never had a laptop and found out the bios is on the asus logo screen.....well anyhow I booted up the system from the pendrive and the result is always the same the black screen with cursor only
The laptops hard drive has failed...
I've recently built a new computer for myself and has been running perfect for a few months. A couple days ago whilst gaming/browsing my monitor went into power safe mode and shortly after my computer shut off, I tried to start up again only to have the same problem occur , the only old parts were a graphics card and psu, I just got in a new gpu and installed it successfully. Same problem occurs. All fans are running properly including the heatsink , processor core temps are around 39 , everything seems to be running ok? Thoughts?
Check event viewer to see why it shut down.
I installed a Windows XP x86 on my PC. But when I open the system information window in the System Summary tab, in the right-hand pane and at bottom the following are written:
Total Physical memory 768.00 MB Available Physical memory 270.41 MB !!
Why Available Physical memory is 270.41 MB please?
PS: My system is very slow and also very slower when start up. Isn't that less Available Physical memory the source of that slowness?
You have only 1Gb of ram installed on the motherboard and XP is using 768Mb which isn't leaving much over. You need to install more ram. It depends on what you are using the computer for but I'd say you want at least 2Gb ram.
The video is 1 min and 14 sec, yet only the couple first seconds is enough to understand the problem. what could be the problem for?
as you can see, half of the screen display colors correctly, the other half, the colors and texts and smudged, they are there but smudged and not applicable to read or view
Can you still RMA it, or did you do something that is not covered by the warranty?
My mother in law gave me her old computer because it would start for a few seconds then stop and continue to repeat the process until she unplugged it. I only wanted it for the extra hard drive. After installing the hard drive into my computer (wanting to format it then clone it since it is larger than the one I currently have) it caused my computer to start and stop even being set as a secondary or slave. If I completely unhook it from my computer and start it up again, My normal set up works fine. Any ideas about what could cause this?
There is only one answer, the drive has gone bad. Chances are the rest of the machine may still be good.
Will the old machine attempt to boot without a drive? Does it come up to a boot drive not found error? If it does, the HDD was the whole trouble.
First of all hello from a new user, I have a problem with my computer but I need help to nail it down to one part (I think it's the graphics card, but who am I to tell).
A friend of mine said people over here are very nice and competent so why not try to get help here.
Long story short, I played a game, Velvet Assassin, that is rather buggy (I.e. it didn't let me change the resolution to my native 1680x1050).
After some time the screen started flickering in complete white with some color bars here and there. I thought it was another bug on newer systems and changed the resolution; the problem seemed resolved.
Until my little brother started to play Forge of Empires, that little browser game, where the problem again occured at an even faster rate.
I hope you can help me, I made a short video of the issue, I know it's not of best quality, but maybe it helps.
Thank you in advance
Have you tried updating your drivers? Also could you please post the make and model of your laptop /desktop and the system specs.
Hi Im new here and im hopeless hope u can help me, !st sorry because I cant find in forum on my problem. well here it is..
I have Samsung 900x New series 9.0 Usb slot is 3.0. just a simple problem but for me its big problem, I cant install any of my 6 pcs usb all is 2.0, It detect yes in device manager but cant install while im updating driver so my laptop can install what usb I inserted, It says error code 28. acess denied, so I cant install any of my flash drive including my external hdd 500gb, pls can someone help me.. I already search to google but non of it helps.. Thanks very much! hope to hear from you guys,
Can you please provide more specific information of your laptop's specifications and operating system used.
My dad was putting some paper into his printer and had apparently put the paper in too far. When he tried to print something it jammed up and the printer had abruptly shut off. I have tried leaving it unplugged for a while and plugging it back in however, the printer WILL NOT turn back on at all.
Hi gang. My usb modem HAS to be unplugged then plugged in for it to work?
Even if PC is off when I do this it will automatically start/connect when windows(7) loads and will work normally. If I don't do this I can not get it to work?
'device mngr' shows it as an 'unknown device'?
I have reinstalled it to no avail.
Are you talking about a modem or a usb network adapter?
Hello. my rig is
fx 4100 4.53ghz
amd r9 270
corsair 600w gs600 gaming series psu
ocz vertex 3 90gb boot drive
240gb samsung 840 ssd
500 gb seagate hdd
1866mhz kingston hyperx ram
asus sabertooth fx990 r2.0
so my issue is this. I can overclock the r9 just fine, run benchmarks and whatnot. everything runs stable. I have clocked it as far as 1100 core and 1600 memory. everything ran stable on heaven and 3dmark vantage and things like msi kombustor to check for stability. as soon as I went into a game, it went bsod. so I figured ok. oc too high. I dropped it abit, tried again. same result. I continued reducing the core and memory till it went down to stock, and then it runs stable. any increase in core or memory by even 1 mhz, will cause it to crash in game. drivers are all up to date, bios, things like that all up to date. any suggestions as to why games don't like it? its multiple games as well. me1, 2, 3, swtor, wow etc. thanks
Well if the overclock if causing the issue, chances are it can seem stable but then turn out to not be because a certain area is stressed more than on benchmarks or other games. Normally I would suggest working on bumping up the core clock first before memory and then checking stability because thats the easiest part to focus on at first. Memory can cause distortions and other issues like a BSOD just because you stressed it just enough to cause an issue.
Try moving just the core clocks and voltage up first, then work on the memory once you have that stable.
I'm having an issue connecting to my wireless network with my computer. Things were working fine until a few weeks ago when the wifi on my computer stopped connecting; now I can only get internet through a wired connection (although the fact I can do this is strange to me). My rooommate is not having any issues with the wireless whatsoever. I have a fairly new acer aspire s7 which has no difficulties connecting to any other wireless network while I am at campus or have gone home for the weekend. I'm at a loss as to how to fix this issue as it has become impossible to do any form of research while I am at home. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Posibilities are your wireless signal is not in range or the wireless router is full of user who are connected to it, or it surpasses the user's limit.. how many user's has wifi connected to the wireless router?
PSU issue I think
heres what it is when I first installed this card (had a 500w antec psu) the comp was fine till I played diablo and poof shut off the comp via psu , so decide to get a thermaltake 2 600w and hook tht up now ot plays for a longer time
but does the same thing,I took the card back and got a new one of the same
same thing happens , so I decided to try a different approach and I have a psu I modded for xbox 360 tht is wired to stay on and I ran the card powered by tht and was able to play for hours and only 2 times it shut that psu off suggestions or now a psu tht doesnt get fooled so easy or what is really going on...lol thank you
If you got a different video card and a different PSU, chances are there is something else wrong unless you got very unlucky and got another bad part from one of the two things swapped out.
My guess would be one of the following just from one you said:
The new PSU is bad as well
The CPU is overheating and shutting off
GPU could be overheating and shutting off (Though this is unlikely)
Those are just a few things to check, I would go into the bios and see what temp the CPU is running at while in there and decide if its running above what it should be. If that's not the issue I would try returning the PSU for a different one and see if that fixes the issue. Though the fact that the machine shuts off with 3 different PSU's points to a different part being an issue.
What command do I type in Command Prompt if I want to use Last Known Good configuration
Boot into Safe Mode (F8), that's where the option is located
I am having a issue with my new router (Tenda W150D Router), its not giving me access for uploading any files through wi fi on my iphone 5s using app (Wireless Drive), even I tried the same with vlc upload feature in iphone still it doesnt work......
I think the issue is with the firewall in the router which I cannot access normally from the router setup...
guys pls help.. any comments are welcome
Hmm; accessing a website is an outbound action thru the firewall on port 80.
A site with file uploading uses the same port 80 as normally used for surfing the web.
We need more data to analyze the problem
?What URL are you accessing for the upload?
from this "iphone 5s using app (Wireless Drive)", I assume the data moves this way:
ISP==router -- wifi to your 5S: using an app called Wireless Drive?can you confirm this please?
?are you sure you're accessing the router and NOT attempting upload via the cellular connection?
Hello, I'm new here. I'm trying to fix my sons Asus laptop. it won't connect wirelessly but will connect via ethernet cable. device manager has exclamation point beside network controller. I cannot download drivers for it. can you help?
"I cannot download drivers for it"... Why? Can you get the driver from here:
If the driver won't install, the Wifi card may be bad... Something that doesn't happen very often
Hey guys I had some contractors doing some work on my house today and they needed to shut the circuit off to the room my computer was in The computer was on at the time so it shut off when the power was cut Now it won t go back on Power button does nothing at all and I don t know if it s the power supply mobo or switch I ve got a power supply tester which causes my computers fans to start up when it s plugged in so the power supply does respond not Power mobo button working... issue? The results are in the attached file It shows LL which means to low to register voltage for the - V line I honestly don t know if I even have that line so I don t know if that s bad I attached the label on my power supply too Would Power button not working... mobo issue? no voltage cause a computer to completely not respond Because the fans DO start up when the power supply tester is plugged in I don t think the switch is the problem because I tried to short the power switch jumpers with a paper clip and nothing happened I also took the CMOS battery out for a while and then tried it again and that didn t work Any ideas on whether I need a mobo or a power supply I don t have an extra PSU around to test with but I may try to find one before ordering a new mobo thanks in advance -mike nbsp
Not the switch. Could be the motherboard or PSU, but I don't have any good insight.
I would unplug the PSU and flip the 120/240V switch to 240V, then flip it back before plugging it in. To me, this doesn't make any logical sense, but over about 16 years of playing with PCs I have seen it work twice.
Hello I got a weird one for you guys and I literally have tried everything can think of so I am hoping someone has some new fresh ideas I have a Dell Latitude E that can no longer connect via wired or wireless connections Both adapters display yellow exclamation marks next to them and in the properties of both adapters says Windows cannot install because the drivers are not recognized Error Both adapters are also missing from the adapter page in network settings I have download the most recent versions of the driver and installed no luck I have downloaded previous version of the driver from dell and installed no luck I download the driver directly from Intel and installed no luck Tried a BIOS update nothing Tried to reset to defaults nothing So I decided I would rebuild the is one Windows 31, not NICs weird Error this working 7 machine and SURPRISE that worked for a week and then the problem started again So my first thought is well maybe its a bad motherboard so I swapped the HDD with another Dell E boot it up and NICs not working Windows 7 Error 31, this one is weird both connections are working In the laptop with the drive from the bad laptop it can no longer connect now so the problem is related to windows and follows the drive Does anybody have any idea whats happening hear I am all tapped out of ideas Thanks let me know if you need any additional info Dell E Windows Enterprise auretsky vailresorts com nbsp
"so the problem is related to windows and follows the drive"... Re-install Windows on this drive. Error 31 relates to a bad driver that may be reflected in the device manager
I Made a mistake buying Samsung laptop model NP350V5C-A0EUK. It worked exactly for 1 year I.e till warranty period within 1 month from the date my warranty expired one of my RAM's stopped working - I bought a new RAM, after that my hard drive got bad memory sectors - I replaced it, then one of my RAM slots was dead, now there is a problem with the second slot.
My question is - By any chance can we get RAM slot repaired ?? - I suppose answer may be NO - I may be wrong as well
If the answer is NO, I suppose I can use other parts of the laptop like processors, RAM, HD, Key pads, display screen so .. on. Is there any way that I can replace some thing like mother board alone to get back my laptop to life ??
Thanks in advance for your suggestion
One friendly suggestion out of scope of this question - never ever ever buy Samsung laptops
I'm willing to bet there is not one repair shop willing to take on the task. Not only would it cost more to do the labor than the motherboard is worth, it would take specialized equipment. Motherboards are dated so quickly, it doesn't pay to repair them. Unless the damage is very simple to work with.
Hi all I m hoping you might be able to guide me in diagnosing what the problem is with my editing workstation Specs Microsoft Windows Professional -bit SP CPU Intel Core i GHz C RAM GB Triple-Channel DDR MHz - - - Motherboard Gigabyte Technology Co Ltd X A-UD Socket C Graphics MB GeForce GTX EVGA C Hard Drives GB Western Digital WDC WD HLHX- JJPV SATA C GB Seamus SATA GB Western Digital WDC WD EARS- Z B SCSI Disk Device SATA C Optical Drives PIONEER DVD-RW DVR- D ATA Device have attached rest of Speccy TXT file I ve had a range of problems from random BSOD to general instability slow downs rebuild, PC issue etc) numerous Help diagnosing (after reinstalls, to very slow internet to HDMI output of video card not working OCCT tests said occt core over maximum value I have formatted and reinstalled Windows twice tested no problems and even reseated ram - which seemed to work for a time Help diagnosing PC issue (after numerous reinstalls, rebuild, etc) When problems started again I bit the bullet and paid someone to check it rebuild update BIOS and reinstall Windows which AGAIN seemed to fix the problems for a time this was doubtless a waste of time and money It s caused so much grief that I d move on and buy an entirely new machine - but I m too stubborn I want to get to the bottom of the hardware issue which is hopefully a component that needs to be upgraded anyway and can get on with my life So I m hoping people can give me guidance to run tests and diagnose exactly what the hell is broken in this box Thanks in advance Morgan nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/help-diagnosing-pc-issue-after-numerous-reinstalls-rebuild-etc.200246/
I have a problem with a batch of Dell optiplex 980's, for some reason the Main boards fail at a alarming rate.
According to Dell it is the memory controller that fails.
Error Lights 1,3,4 are on nothing on screen, power led solid blue about 10 error beeps!
Dell tech replaced the main boards and all is fine for a while but same problem persists.
Also according to Dell level 6 tech, it could be over heating, I had some fun proving them wrong, two PC's sealed in a box , hammering them, Temp between 85 Celsius - 90 Celsius in the sealed enclosure, optical drive started melting, cooled the PC's for a day and powered back on, no problems!!
Does any one out there maybe have a issue similar to this on the optiplex 980, main board failures?
Dell Optiplex 980 Lights 134 on no screen
Yes I have exactly the same problem. Turned PC on this morning lights 134 on plus blue power light but no screen at all. Still under warranty, phoning dell in the morning - I will keep you posted
After Broni s series of attempts to help me in THIS THREAD he suggested that I may have a video chip or motherboard issue NOTE I am on issue motherboard Possible a Chromebook now and am trying to clean my fiance s laptop He just got it back from a local tech shop on windows reinstall - he downloaded some nasty viruses via email attachments we believe BAD BAD BOY and I tried to reinstall windows on my own times but the acer discs would not complete the reinstall so we took it to the shop By he d managed to get reinfected but I don t know if it was residual from the previous infection My latest thread to him following his instructions to go into System Recovery mode was After some Googling re not being able to start the Acer the only way I could figure Possible motherboard issue out how to get past the screen with several vertical lines comprised of the little horizontal lines like my earlier video shows let s call it my HVLinePattern for shorthand was to take out battery for over minutes while unplugged the whole time press down power for seconds plug back in reboot and I could F and F but NOT F At some point I got a single set of short beeps cpu failure wild guess per http www fixya com support t -acer aspire laptop problems booting I cannot seem to reproduce these beeps tho I tried to let the laptop Possible motherboard issue start up in regular mode and kept looping the acer logo with options to F or F at the bottom vs a brief flash of black screen until I powered it down with the power button I rebooted tried to F and got what I interpret to be long short beeps immediately followed by long short beeps immediately followed by long short beeps immediately followed by the HVLinePattern screen I powered down and rebooted then hit F chose boot by disc took a screenshot but it s in video format oops can add later if necessary hit F and changed to boot order screenshot on my google drive -bit ly foRTDf put my windows install disc in the drive recovery disc of crossed my fingers rebooted got what I interpret to be long short beeps immediately followed by long short beeps immediately followed by long short beeps immediately followed by the HVLinePattern screen I then took out battery for over minutes while unplugged the whole time pressed down power for seconds plugged back in rebooted and long short beeps immediately followed by long short beeps immediately followed by long short beepsimmediately followed by the HVLinePattern screen I rebooted a few times and shot a little video LINK ON YOUTUBE while I observed the same pattern of beeping Riveting stuff Click to expand As I expressed to Broni I m not terribly optimistic we ve already began the process of shopping for a replacement Now that I know the beeps have a significance I m a bit agitated that the tech shop ignored the HVLinePattern screen and the beeps they likely also heard Oh well At any rate if you have any insights I d be so very appreciative If not I truly understand that my fiance managed to do too much damage by not getting help quickly enough and or by clicking on an especially malicious piece of malware We just hope we can take steps to avoid it again in the future Thank you nbsp
Sorry! must've been half asleep when I posted this under MOBILE COMPUTING ... meant to put it in PROCESSORS AND MOTHERBOARDS and just did so. If there's a way I can delete my original post above, let me know so I can learn the RIGHT WAY to take advantage of this valuable resource.
Moderator note: Irwynn, I moved your post here to a more appropriate subject forum IMO.
I have a 2TB My Book Live that I and my housemates use to store media. Initially I was the primary contributor to the drive, and at that time there were no issues. Eventually, someone else began adding files to the server. Since then, any folder that someone else has added files to cannot be accessed by me unless I am logged in as a guest. If I log in as an administrator the folders show up but are greyed out. This only happened with one user. I am running a Mac, and they were using Windows, but other Windows users have added files without causing this issue. I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this, and if anyone knows of a workaround other than always logging out as administrator when I want to access those folders.
Thanks for any help
This appears to be an issue on how the drive was formatted and hard disk permissions. Before I go through a bunch of steps to fix, since this is an older post, is this still an issue or have you resolved it?!
Post back please.
OK, so I have a stable network connection through my modem at all times and of which is currently hard wired to my desk top. Every hour or so I seem to lose connection to the internet through my pc but the modem still shows a stable signal (online light stays on) I run the trouble shooter for internet and get nothing most times so I end up having to re-boot the pc to get connection back. I'm not the most tech savy so any suggestions on how to get this fixed step by step instructions would be VERY helpful !
First I would try replacing the Ethernet cable being used to connect the modem & PC. Next, if there are other "LAN" ports in the modem, plug into a different port. After that I would try pinging the default gateway (ip address of the modem) with an infinite ping and watch to see if there are dropped packets. if there are multiple dropped packets, then it could be a bad network card in the PC or a bad port in the modem.
to infinite ping, open the command prompt and type the following:
ping <ip address of modem> -t (c:\ping 192.168.1.1 -t)
to make the ping stop press: Control C look at the results and see if you have dropped packets. Here's a look at mine after 10 pings
C:\>ping 192.168.10.1 -t
Pinging 192.168.10.1 with 32 bytes of data:
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Ping statistics for 192.168.10.1:
Packets: Sent = 10, Received = 10, Lost = 0 (0% loss),
Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:
Minimum = 0ms, Maximum = 0ms, Average = 0ms
Hope this helps, post back!!
I am new to upgrading my PC, but I have some experienced friends and I have stumped them all with my issue. I installed a new MSI Twin Frozr III R7850 graphics card in my HP Pavillion Desktop, I have a PCIe x16 2.0 and the card uses 3.0, however from research that should not be my problem. I installed the card and two startups in a row I got 8 1 second beeps. On the third startup however I got nothing, it just started up, no picture and obviously not loading any programing, but no beeping. I have tried the HDMI and DVI ports that the graphics card uses and I still have nothing. My computer, however, runs perfectly fine when I do not have this new graphics card powered. Am I doing something wrong, or is my card just dead?
Well ill go through a few basic things:
First did you hook up both 6 pin connectors?
Second what video card was installed previously, if it was NVidia, did you remove the previous drivers.
Third, have you tried different slots on the motherboard for testing, also does the motherboard have onboard video.
Try these solutions and lets go from there.
I'm having an issue with the keyboard for my Toshiba Satellite P775-S7320. Put plainly, keys have started triggering other keys, as if both keys were pressed at the same time. Nothing was spilled on the keyboard, but now, A and Tilde trigger one another, and the same for 1 and 2, Q and S, W and Tab, X and Capslock. The only exception to this is Z and \. Z will trigger \, but \ will not trigger Z. I've popped off the keys and cleaned them with compressed air, I've rebooted my computer several times, and am unsure of where to go from here.
Try hitting the NUM LK/SCRN LK key
I wanna make sure I done all steps before sending these 2 new sticks of memory back to newegg because there defective.
2 new sticks match the old stick. G.Skill, F1-3200PHU2-2GBNS, DDR-400, CL2.5-3-3-6 2.5 ~ 2.75v, PC3200 1Gx2
The 2 old sticks works in all 4 memory slots. New memory sticks does not.
When the PC completely boots up I get lines on the monitor and freezes PC up after done booting everything. I reboot PC then get check sum error on the black boot up screen with F1 to continue or F2 enter setup.
Acer Aspire T160 desktop
That's a bit too old for me to be confident giving suggestions, sorry.
Lately, My laptop is very slow in recognizing my usb stick, or my Hard drive (usb 3.0) or my sxs cards through my express card slot. It 's also slow in recognizing my sd-cards through my card reader. I have a very fast laptop. A lenovo W530.
I just started a while ago, and I can't get it to recognize faster . Everything else works just fine and fast.... but it takes up to 4 minutes to recognize these things.
Can somebody help?
Hey tidri. 2 things come to mind if it previously worked. One is a reinstall of all the drivers for the mobo, and the other is a full AV/Malware/Rootkit scan. If everything checks out, a full format and an OS reinstall would be my third move.
So, memory timings: 10-10-10-27.
Is that crap?
Edit: Is 9-9-9-24 better? I'm under the impression that the smaller the number the faster the ram.
I'm currently using this memory, it says the timings are 10-10-10-27. I looked in my bios and the timings were set to 9-9-9-24 so I changed them to match the RAM.
Is that recommended or should I have left it?
That's the wrong memory I linked to, I have this. My timings actually are 9-9-9-24. I'm trying to find my command mode, does anyone know what it is for this memory?
Hello, I have a aspire 1430G desktop that has an AMD E-450 APU and I recently upgraded the PSU to support my also recently gained Gigabyte GT610. When I place the GT610 into its PCI slot and turn it on I get a black screen that says no input detected. When I remove the graphics card my computer runs like normal, and now im stuck with not a clue in the world of what to do to get the GT610 to work with my desktop. Any suggestions of what to do?
Are you connecting the monitor to the card? In order for the card to work the monitor must be connected to a port on the card.
If not the reason for the black screen is the integrated graphics is disabled when installing a dedicated graphics card.
I have a Dell Inspiron with Windows Home A few days ago while watching a video on ESPN com an error message popped up saying I had an issue with my video card and then my computer froze and restarted itself before I can write down what the error message said Now when I turn on my computer I get to the screen to type in my username and password and get to my desktop but before the computer is fully loaded it freezes Everything on my desktop comes up normally with all the icons and background I can start my computer in safe mode and tried a system restore to no avail Can anyone help with my issue or send me in the right direction I did notice that under safe mode when my screen saver is supposed to come on I get this message quot The screen save can t run because it requires a newer video card or one that s compatible with Direct D quot Don t know if that is related Thanks for the help Card Video Issue Possible nbsp
This laptop has Intel HD Graphics. It is called on-board graphics permanently part of the motherboard and it is not a video card. The graphics driver might have become corrupted or the graphics chip might have overheated
I issue An logins with user have a former company PC Earlier I was attempting to remove the company An issue with user logins domain from it so that I didn t have to An issue with user logins log in as the previous user every time just to get to the desktop So I changed the computer name right click my computer properties computer name I then clicked on Network ID and set to this computer is for An issue with user logins home use and then it went wrong I restarted the computer as instructed and tried to log on as the user as before but it is telling me the password is incorrect The username is correct and so is the password It s clear that whatever I did with the Network ID has caused this I have logged on as administrator but need to access the other user due to the saved files on there etc Can someone help me revert back access that user account from admin Is there a way to completely detach the PC from the previous domain so that it is like a normal home PC with no log in Thank You nbsp
Administrator account has permission to access files from other users. Just go to the C:/Users section or whatever.
Alright this is really driving me kinda nuts I recently upgraded from a Pentium Dual Core ghz to AMD A - K ghz Quadcore Gigabyte F A M D H GB DDR RAM PowerColor HD GB temp issue A8-5600K monitoring TB HDDs Cooling A8-5600K temp monitoring issue info Aerocool Vs running stock heatsink intake mm fans x facing CPU side x bottom x front facing HDDs and exhaust mm fan at the back And everything s basically fine except the temperature monitoring for the processor A - k in the BIOS it s like C even if System Temperature was C is that even realistic and in Windows bit I can t tell which temp it is using HWInfo HWmonitor Gigabyte s easytune and coretemp In HWinfo it kinda claims the CPU is - degrees Then in Gigabyte s easy tune CPU is C so I traced it and if you look in the picture atleast according to Gigabyte it s Temperature - C but that s kinda unrealistic as it also stays at C even under full load Then finally in HWMonitor there s a Package under AMD A - K that says it s around - C but I m still not sure which one is it What is that quot package quot anyway In fact one time Hwmonitor said C was the max but maybe that was because I was runinng other temp monitors and it conflicted On the rest of the instances in this original post I made sure to run one at a time I ran a Blend Test in Prime and both the TMPIN which is the same value as the - C in Easytune and HWinfo and the A - K Package are changing and maxing at C and C respectively So all in all SpeedFan BIOS HWinfo and ET all display - C or something HWMonitor and Speccy display the - s Which should I trust or what should I use nbsp
Trust the package temp, that's the one on those processors you should be watching for.
I recently upgraded the memory in my fathers Laptop from the original 256Mb sim to a 2Gb sim. No problem there however the Return key and the Cursor keys seem to have stopped working even in the Bios.
I have removed the battery and held the power button in for 30secs thinking a reset of the Bios would fix the problem, no luck there they still do not function.
I have removed the keys and checked that nothing has been spilled on the keyboard, no problem there ether.
I have also checked internally to see if there was any damage to the ribbon cable. Seems fine.
To be honest I cant seem to locate the issue and was hoping someone could offer some additional support. Anybody any ideas?
Specs: Esystem EI 3101 laptop, Intel Celeron M430 1.73ghz CPU, 2Gb DDR2, Internal 256mb GFX card.
Did you try re-installing the 256MB memory to see if the keyboard started working again?
Recently I was doing a research about a memory update for my G - LA Notebook and in many websites including the Netbook User s Manual I found that this Notebook could be upgraded up to Gb of memory So Upgrading Notebook Failure G42-365LA HP Memory I bought two RAM memories of Gb each one SoDIMM DDR PC - MHz according to researched specifications But the thing is that when I installed them I couldn t enter into the OS it sent me to the Windows Error Recovery window directly and whichever option I choose it reboots and it keeps doing that Well I tried installing just one memory alone and the result is different it came up with the BSOD giving me different errors each time I reboot the Netbook These errors are BAD POOL HEADER PFN LIST CORRUPT IRQL NOT LESS OR EQUAL I ve tried to reinstall the OS with memories installed but the result is the same My Notebook is a HP G - LA Windows Home Premium x Service Pack Intel Core i CPU M GHz I don t know if I was cheated by the manufacturer website and or the others websites that s why I need your help P S When I installed just one memory module I can see The Windows intro logo but just for two seconds or so And I tried to install quot Ubuntu desktop amd x quot with just one Gb memory module inserted and everything was good but it wasn t with the two cards installed nbsp
One of the stick of ram maybe bad. Try them each one at a time.
This was posted by Corsair a couple of days ago. What does everyone think? Is this just an attempt to get people to upgrade to shinny corsair ram, or is this finally a reason for gamers to have good ram/ overclock our current sticks?
No way the average FPS increases by 20 just by adding faster RAM (1920x1200 ultra graph)... BF3 barely gains 3 FPS from high speed RAM. It is just bloated graphs and marketing.
In my C drive there's something called download.log
inside is a batch command line
Unsure what it is... But I think it's just saying my win 7 has sp1 or something?
Also, an update did occur when I booted? Maybe it's just a fragment of something and can be deleted?
It's on my laptop, so I didn't know where to really post
Hey, my name is Dazz. I am pretty new here and have just built a new PC, I have connected all the parts of the PC up correctly and seem to be having problems on startup. I hear the general kick into life startup but when I look at my monitor it is completely black, no startup screen. Doesnt even turn on, the light on the monitor is set to 'standby' straight away. I have no idea what the problem is at all.
Any ideas what it might be?
I am using Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 motherboard, 750W ATX PSU, Corsair Dominator 4GB Phenom II x6, and a Prolite E2208HDS monitor
The real question I have is why you are pairing a GTX 690 with a Phenom X6 and 4GB of RAM!
Jokes aside, does the GPU fan spin when you startup the PC? Is it properly seated on the PCIe port? Is there a power connection to the GPU?
In Windows 8, whenever we copy any exe files to USB device/pen drive, there is an Interrupted Action dialog saying that "the file has properties that can't be copied to the new location". How to fix this issue?
I missed to say that there is an easier alternative method to copy files with properties is by creating image of the files need to be copied. For example, iso, daa , bin, etc.
Even if we use alternate methods, we need an easy solution to fix the main issue without any tools or software.
I need forum recommendations on good reliable memory sticks, 4x4 GB or 8x2 GB (don't sure which is better). Mostly PC will be using for games and some audio recording.
Don't know which clock 1866 or 2400 (O.C.) for motherboard will be better.
Can somebody share his experience with me?
First, you should know that X79 is the first (and only) consumer platform with a quad channel memory controller. That means for maximum memory performance you must use at least 4 DIMMs, populating channels A, B, C, and D.
The Sabertooth X79 originally supported up to only 1866 MHz, but I see the QVL lists kits up to 2400. http://support.asus.com/QVL.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&m=SABERTOOTH X79&hashedid=RPOIwd0pKLoXnbFV
If you buy a kit on this list, it has already been tested to work with your board, at least at stock CPU speeds. If you overclock your CPU (and you should with that unlocked processor), some of the higher speed RAM may not boot. I believe you'll be safe buying a 2133 kit, even one that's not on the QVL. I'm running Kingston HyperX Beast 2400 in my Asus P8Z77-V & i5-3570K system with great results, and it's not on my QVL. If you do go for the 2400, you should pick one of the 4x4GB kits from your QVL for assured compatibility. If all those are hard to find (or too expensive), roll the dice and get the kit you want, but make sure it's a name brand like Corsair, Adata, G.Skill, Patriot, Kingston HyperX, Crucial, etc., as they have reputations to preserve and do lots of testing on all platforms.
Also, check out this recent thread about whether or not fast RAM is worth the money - http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=191311
My motherboard is a Z77 Asrok Extreme 6.
It has four dimm slots. I have One kit of 8 gigabyte memory from Gskill that is DDR3. 'dual channel' (11-11-11-28) PC 2133.
If I get another kit of 8 gig from ANOTHER vendor and its different timings can I put them into the alternate slots and have it work? Say I buy Corsair (9-9-9-9) PC 1600. Would the two kits work against each other since they are different timings? Is this NOT recommended?
Here is another better question. What if I buy the exact same memory from Gskill and drop them in as well? So I have two kits of dual channel 8 gig ram for a total of 16 gigs. Both kits would be same type/speed and latency. Will this work or do I need to use 'quad channel'?
Edited for spelling.
If I get another kit of 8 gig from ANOTHER vendor and its different timings can I put them into the alternate slots and have it work? Say I buy Corsair (9-9-9-9) PC 1600. Would the two kits work against each other since they are different timings? Is this NOT recommended?Click to expand...
I'm thinking that different timings will cause issues with Dual Channel functionality. I'm also thinking that Dual Channel only functions if all modules can operate in dual mode. If you are not planning on operating in Dual Channel mode, I don't think it matters. However the modules should operate with the same timing, if they are to be linked together.
Anyway without actually knowing for sure, those are my thoughts.
Greetings Tech memory 64 Pro 7, bit Windows More why? and Folks I have More memory and why? Windows 7, Pro 64 bit since found out that one of my memory modules is bad I am a gamer and built my system Currently my system spec is as follows Intel I K overclocked to ghz I used the default OC settings on Motherboard Asrok Z Extreme motherboard gigs of Gskill Ripsaws DDR PC module died now running on gigs Corsair Gold PS EVGA Geforce GTX w gigs onboard Win Pro Seagate Barracuda Terrabyte Drive rpm OCZ gig SSD This is used as a cache drive using Intels SRT technology set to maximized I play raid EQ high to very high settings Distant worlds all expacs Civ The Secret World X Gal Civ Heroes III and IV and I spend hours up every night correcting people on the internet ok not really I also occasionally watch HD movies I have downloaded via HDMI too my TV I also use my computer for work I typically have spreadsheets open along with a browser with or tabs open in addition to using Open office for documents Oh and lets not forget using Pandora streaming my music while I am working Now I am going to replace my module and get back UP to gigs of ram My question is do we REALLY need more than gigs for ram Also in Win is there anything I should set or reset to optimize its performance such as the page file or anything else I used to set the page file when I had Win XP but since we have so much ram nowadays I thought we no longer have to bother Any advice is most welcome nbsp
This question is a Windows OS question, why was this moved to hardware?
I m gathering components for Other - & Devices PSU Motherboards, compatability Memory, my first PC build And guess what I have a few questions The rig will be a dedicated gaming rig primarily racing games might get into flight sims Looking for reliable gt fps at or just below p single quot - quot display Will keep my current PC for non-gaming duties budget limit less the display and peripherals Will get into Motherboards, Memory, PSU & Other Devices - compatability OC but conservatively and not right away Don t expect to go SLI but might eventually Components bought or en route Corsair Carbide R mid tower ATX Win -bit Home Premium SP OEM disc Core i - K Mobo Asus Z -A LGA HDD TB WD Blue And looking at Gigabyte GTX GB prettly much decided - bang for Motherboards, Memory, PSU & Other Devices - compatability the buck and sufficient Motherboards, Memory, PSU & Other Devices - compatability for purpose price going down and rebate this month Memory GB x GB DDR SSD GB Crucial m SATA Gb s I like the price doesn t have to be the best looks like immediately installing latest drivers should take care of reviewers complaints ODD Lite-On iHAS - PSU Corsair Enthusiast Series TX M W modular subject to further research but I like this From the Asus web site I ve downloaded the Memory Qualified Vendors List QVL and the Devices QVL Too much information and not enough The memory list is extensive the devices list is not My central question is how important is it that I select memory from the Memory QVL and likewise the PSU from the Devices QVL Just looking at the devices list it is clear that not being on the list does not mean a particular part won t play nicely with the Z -A The Corsair PSU selection is very limited What should I focus on other than price Thanks for your help Frank nbsp
I presume then, that although it may be somewhat important to be guided by the Memory QVL (simply because it seems so comprehensive), the Devices QVL can be ignored. Will proceed accordingly.
Alright so I got an Aspire M since One day it suddenly card Graphics or slot? the is broken it wouldn t start up Beeping noises are heard from the CPU long short After a bit of research it seems Graphics card broken or is it the slot? that the computer could not detect the graphic card which results in it not starting up So I reinserted the graphic card Failed Did it again Failed Repeated for hour Still hearing long short beeps Then after a few maybe hours I tried again reinserting the graphics driver connecting the monitor cable and turned it on It worked Graphics card broken or is it the slot? I didn t know what happened but it worked After Graphics card broken or is it the slot? I was done using the computer I turned it off The next day today the problem came back Reinserted plugged monitor cable turned on and it works Now I don t know whether its the graphic card or the slot Wonder if replacing it will work I m afraid that if I turn off the PC the problem will return Any help would be appreciated I never opened the CPU since for cleaning nbsp
Hey Falconet. I think I would be far more likely that the graphic card is flaky since in your research the beeps point to the graphics card. If the slot were damaged, chances are you wouldn't get it to work at all, and since it worked one day and not the next, and since the slot itself won't break on it's own, I would suspect the card first. It wouldn't hurt to check both connection points of the cable the next time, although the beeps indicate the card's operation itself as not being right.
I have problem in starting my Laptop,window could not start normall I got black screen infront
of me whenever I start it so I have to ctrl+Alt+del to start it then thats the time windows is up and
running.What seems to be the problem?Please help I no idea in this issue
It may be possible that Secure sign-in requiring all users to press Ctrl+Alt+Del is enabled on your computer. This generally provides an additional layer of security to protect the system.
In order to disable this option, please try the following steps:
In the Start screen, type netplwiz in the Search box, and then press ENTER.
Administrator permission is required. If you are prompted for an administrator password or confirmation, type the password or provide confirmation.
Click the Advanced tab, un-check the "Require users to press Ctrl+Alt+Delete" check box, and then click Apply/Ok.
Hopefully, this may resolve the issue for you. Please reply if you have further queries.
Thanks and regards,
For easy access to drivers, manuals and product updates, please visit our Support Site .
Issue I currently have hard drives installed on my desktop I m Hard Issue(s) Drive using them as separate Hard Drive Issue(s) drives One is a gig which has windows vista came with the computer for every day use and the other is terabyte with windows which is for music recording purposes only Whenever I boot my computer it gets to a blue HP screen that has several F key options F F F and then there is an ESC option for boot menu to select between the hard drives The gig always boots up regardless of which one I choose All the cables are hooked up properly I don t understand Could somebody please help Oops I forgot issue My gig hd freezes up It was doing this before I got the terabyte hd which is why I bought it in the first place Everything loads up and works fine for about a minute or and then everything freezes Even after letting it set for awhile nothing works Not even Ctrl Alt Delete works Nothing I did a factory restore on it after I got all the files moved from the to the tera Any ideas on this one as well nbsp
What are the make/models of the Hard drives? Have you tried going into your bios and set the 2 Terabyte hard drive as primary? In my opinion, I would eliminate Windows Vista (no point in running Dual Boot Windows Vista AND Windows 7). If you've already saved what you want from the 750 GB hard drive, then I would just format it and use it as extra storage until it no longer works, or just eliminate it totally from the system. You can setup profiles if you are worried about keeping information separate or you can give another operating system (Linux) a try.
Long of it Hey I was playing Minecraft this Friday night when suddenly the screen stopped working correctly The moniter diplays everything fuzzy similer to the background here However at the top of my screen maybe about a centimeter everything is fine I can see the title bar of open folders and even managed to move my task bar up to the top of the screen and can see it about half way I can start the computer and access folders programs threw guessing where the icons are or using the keyboard to select the icons Works best when I have hot keys to work with to remove the clicking guesswork I m not sure what is going on with my laptop I purchased it almost a year ago on June th So I m probably out of luck on the manufacturer s warranty but I did purchase the year warranty from Wallmart so I m trying there But as my collage classes start on the th sooner I can get my laptop working the better Short of it The graphics on my Dell Laptop ain t working properly I can see a centimeter at the top properly but that is it The computer itself still works on issue Laptop Dell Sudden graphics I can open access everything I just don t have a visual on the GUI to make clicking things easy Is there anything I can do to alleviate this problem while waiting to hear back about my warranty Sudden graphics issue on Dell Laptop Or am I just out of luck My laptop is an Inspiron N Intel Core i - M Processor GB Memory Integrated Intel HD Graphics Windows Home Premiun -bit Microsoft Office Starter Dell Stage software nbsp
It's the sort of screen corruption seen when the integrated graphics are shot. The laptop probably needs a new motherboard. Playing high intensity video games for long periods on laptops isn't a good idea unless they have been designed to do the job. That warranty should come in handy.
Hi there guys, hope you are all having a wonderful day. I need a little advice on my computer as I am a very passionate gamer. I have a custom made PC which I spent quite a bit of money on and now I come to play games such as Counter-Strike:Global-offensive or DotA/HoN and I get crazy FPS issue. I honestly cannot understand why. Anyways I hope someone can shed some light on this situation or maybe take me towards the right directions
AMDPhenom(tm) II X6 1055T Processor (6CPUs) 2.8GHz
AMD Radeon HD 6900 Series (2.1GB RAM)
10MB Internet - Which runs really fast seeing as I am right next to the exchange
Not sure what other details you need. If you can help me or need more information to do so please let me know! thanks
Sorry I forgot to add that I get around 30-80 FPS on CS:GO
Are you running Windows 7 64 bit?
I just came from a retail store to check on prices but most of their parts weren't available anymore. Instead of a G. Skill Ripjaws 2x4 8gb DDR-3 1600, the clerk offered me a Crucial Ballistix 2x4 8gb DDR-3 1866 memory. The board I'm gonna buy is an Asrock H77 Pro4/Mvp but looking at their memory support list http://www.asrock.com/mb/memory.asp?Model=H77 Pro4/MVP, it doesn't seem compatible.
The clerk had told me it was compatible and that he had tried it before but I'm not sure if it'd have unwanted effects over some period of time. (I got drawn in by how the memory looks and its LED so I'm including it as a choice). Thanks.
It will be compatible, worst case scenario is just setting your 1866Mhz RAM to run at 1600Mhz. You're getting quicker RAM for free.
Hi, I have been trying to solve my problem for two days. I spent some hours on the phone with my internet provider (Bell) to solve the problem and they finally told me that the problem would be my computer or my config.
The problem is that I can connect to internet with my cellphone and my tab but I cant connect with my computer. It says limited connectivity on my windows8. I tried disabling my firewall and most of the turotials posted on the net but still nothing works.
I would love to be able to solve this problem .ty
Ps: sorry if I am difficult to understand I usually speak french =)
I already tried to reinstall my network drivers (Broadcom) and it still doesnt work. My computer is a Dell AMD phenom X6 operating with windows 8 (64)
...I also tried the ip release and renew
Hey Math.Is your router secured?. If so,I would verify that you can connect using an Ethernet cable. If so, I would go into the router's setup and change the broadcast channel the router is using, change it to 10 or 11 and save the changes. Remove the cable, wait a minute, then try to connect.What is the make and model of your router?.
Problem began a few weeks ago with the lap turn not shutting down...would only go to hibernate... now I can't run any virus software or malware software both of which are installed on hard drive, it gives me a message that foxfire is running and I need to close it but it won't allow me to close anything...even loaded malware on external hd and tried to run it from there but the computer won't open it up...
What OS (Operating System) are you using? To shutdown firefox, right click the taskbar & on the menu that pops up left click Start Task Manager & go to the Processes Tab,find firefox,highlight it & click End process. You might get a pop up asking you to confirm it,click yes & X out of Task Manager.
You need to install Malwarebytes on the harddrive. Once its installed, update it & run a (full) scan.
Hi folks, I love to do video editing using adobe premiere, but as videos are recorded more often in HD even from my smartphone feels like there is not enough power anymore.
My system is Biostar Hi-Fi A85W motherboard with AMD A8-6500 and 4 GB DDR3. Now I am wondering if a memory upgrade to 8 GB would really make sense in that case? Or could it be a too slow CPU and I have to replace my current board?
I will be glad to hear your advice!
That is a newly released CPU, so it is not slow. Plus, it is a quad core. If you just do basic computing tasks, the 8GB will allow you to multitask more. Check out this site for what RAM to buy: http://goo.gl/95Yh
I have an USB flash memory brand PNY. Its speed is very low, that is, when I copy or delete files into/from it, it takes a very long time to be done. Is there a way to speed it up?
NO. Most likely you have it inserted to a USB 1.1 slot when it needs USB 2.0.
I have ps2 corupted memory card I try too delete the corupted data but it wont ........... and the memory card wont load by the browser ............ plz smeone show way to format it plz