I'm planning on buying this ->http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130918
I just wanted to know if it would work in my build(part list below).
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO RR-212E-20PK-R2 ...98355780
CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) ...98355780
Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz ...98355780
SeaSonic G Series SSR-550RM 550W ATX12V / ...98355780
HIS iCooler H777F1G2M Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition ...98355780 Which will be replaced.
ASRock Z77 Pro3 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA ...98355780
COOLER MASTER Elite 430 RC-430-KWN1 Black Steel ...98251416
I recommend downloading and running Reimage. It's a computer repair tool that has been proven to identify and fix many Windows problems with a high level of success.
I've used it in the past to identify and fix everything from blue screens (BSOD's), ActiveX errors, corrupt files and processes, dll/exe/sys errors, recover lost memory, Windows update problems, defragging, malware removal etc.
You can download it direct from this link http://downloadreimage.com/directdownload.php. (This link will automatically start a download of Reimage that you can save to your computer.)
Yes, but a 550W PSU is pretty marginal if you're overclocking both the CPU and GPU.http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/will-this-gpu-work-in-my-build.194967/
Hello I am new to building the pcs so I am afraid I may have fried mine I really am pry I did not but this is what happened I finish tower Power will not work button My the pc and My tower Power button will not work when I turned on the power supply the power button on the motherboard glowed so then I pressed my tower button and nothing worked so then I re setup he F PANEL cords u know the pwr switch and all that jazz turns out it was set up wrong so I put them in right and tried to turn on the computer again the power button on the motherboard turns on but not my towers power button and so my pc will not officially turn on I am guessing and I am worried that I may have fryed my pc because when I took out the f panlle cords I realized my pc was still on and turned it off immanently and I am afraid that may have fryed the motherboard if anyone can help me it would be wonderful I am freaking out and have no Idea what the problem thank you for reading P S My tower button does not making a clicking sound when you push it I am not sure if that normal or it is broken or somthing it just doesnt make any click sounds nbsp
You could have a defective power switch on the PC case. Test this by using the reset switch as a temporary power switch. The power switch and the reset switch are the same for practical purposes except, of course, the size of the button (on most cases). If the reset switch works and is able to start the PC, then you know the power switch is defective.
I recently bought a Windows DVD to put it on the new PC I'm building for my mom. That PC has troubles with the DVD drive itself (stupid motherboard doesn't have IDE..), so I figured I'd set up a bootable USB to install Windows before the adapter arrives. Problem is, the installation DVD isn't playing on my drive (I tried another DVD with a movie on it before, so I don't think its my drive). I brought it to a PC shop and for them it worked fine, even though its quite scratched on the back (I guess the person selling those DVDs doesn't know how to ship them properly) I didn't wanna pay 20 bucks for them copying the DVD, even though I'll probably end up having to do that.
Any ideas what the problem is, or what I can do? I'm not sure if the DVD will work in my moms drive either..
I have an Aspire one NAV50 with Windows 7 starter.
One time, when I turned it on, The icon for wireless connection doesn't appear anymore. Every time I try troubleshoot it, it would just say that there is an ethernet cable unplugged. And so, I connected it into the ethernet cable and it works fine. But when I tried it again on the wireless connections, it doesn't locate to any wireless connection.
I've tried the ff on my laptop:
scan the laptop with MalwareBytes
by the way, last night, when I turned on again the laptop, the wireless connections can already be found. However, after few minutes, it went back to being unlocated again.
I had doubt the Starter supports the Wireless connecting but since you say " the wireless connections can already be found.", so probably it's possible.
In this case and at the moment the thing I'm thinking about is the driver. Try to update its driver for wireless connecting. (You've said the 'update', but update of what?).
hi there my wireless through cable work will not My only ethernet internet internet was My internet will only work through ethernet cable not wireless running fine until yesterday when I tried to connect to the internet the message quot windows can t communicate with the device or resource primary dns server quot came up I followed all methods on this website http answers microsoft com en-us w -b d ec fae but none of them worked for me I then returned my laptop to factory settings in the hope it will work but that didnt not work I then realised it works through the ethernet cable but not wireless I ran ipconfig all with my ethernet cable in and this is the result SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME THANKYOU Windows IP Configuration Host Name Nida-TOSH Primary Dns Suffix Node Type Hybrid IP Routing Enabled No WINS Proxy Enabled No Wireless LAN adapter Wireless Network Connection Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Realtek RTL CE Wireless LAN n PC I-E NIC Physical Address D -DF- A-EB- -B DHCP Enabled Yes Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Link-local IPv Address fe d fccc e c eb Preferred IPv Address Preferred Subnet Mask Lease Obtained October Lease Expires October Default Gateway DHCP Server DHCPv IAID DHCPv Client DUID - - - - -EB- A- A-B - -F -D - -E DNS Servers NetBIOS over Tcpip Enabled Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Realtek PCIe FE Family Controller Physical Address B - -F -D - -EF DHCP Enabled Yes Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter isatap EEB-B - C-AC - CEB F Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes IPv Address ef fb affc eb Pre erred Link-local IPv Address fe affc eb Preferred Default Gateway NetBIOS over Tcpip Disabled Tunnel adapter isatap DF D AB- BF- FA - CB -DFA C Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes nbsp
There may be an issue on the ISP side or router side since restoring to defaults didnt help. Or it could be an issue with the network adapter. Or it could be an issue with the firewall.
Try downloading running these tools (download via ethernet, run on wireless): Network Fix-It Tool (right click on the internet bars on the task bar in the bottom right hand side of the screen, and click "troubleshoot network...") and Firewall Fix-It Tool.
Did you install anything on your PC before this happened? Did Windows install any updates?
Try disabling your AntiVirus. That may be the issue. I doubt it though.
Tell me if any of these solutions help.
I have a Sony Vaio VPCEH15EN laptop & the OS is Windows 7 home basic. I have a wifi router which is of TPLINK.
The wifi won't connect to my laptop but it works fine on my mobile..it would only start working when I use the ethernet cable. I never had this problem before. I have tried everything ..I also tried the winsockfix.bat but all my efforts have gone in vain..I just don't know if the wifi router is faulty or the modem of my ISP...Please help me solve this problem.
I have solved the problem by myself. To do this, first you have to disconnect your Ethernet cable from your laptop and follow the steps: Start>Control Panel>Network and Sharing Center>Manage Wireless Networks and remove all wireless connections by right click on it and select Remove network from the drop down menu. After doing this, close the windows and scan for the Wi-Fi networks. Click on the available network and select connect. After a while, you will be asked to give a password for your Wi-Fi connection. Type the password and click on connect button. And now will be connected to your Wi-Fi network via wireless.
May be it will help you.
MD. MAHMUDUL HASAN
Hi! I don't know much about this place but there's a problem with my laptop and I don't know how to solve it. My laptop won't connect to the wifi anymore but it works perfectly fine with the ethernet cable. I appreciate it very much if you tech geniuses could help me out. THANK YOU!
Are there any yellow (!) in the device manager?
Hi guys I ve been researching and trying to days to get this to work with no avail so I decided to post here for some help as doesn't Ethernet connected Wifi work cable. using working when only Internet I see this community is really active We ve got different laptops here and none of them can connect to the wifi anymore it suddenly stopped working for the last whole week We can connect to the internet through ethernet cables though We only use one at a time if ethernet then wireless is disabled and vice versa Here is a copy of the ipconfig all Windows IP Configuration Host Name PeterMai-HP Primary Dns Suffix Node Type Hybrid IP Internet only working when connected using Ethernet cable. Wifi doesn't work Routing Enabled No WINS Proxy Enabled No DNS Suffix Search List moolahd local Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection Connection-specific DNS Suffix moolahd local Description Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller Physical Address AC- - D- B-ED-F DHCP Enabled Yes Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Link-local IPv Address fe ac a d b Preferred IPv Address Preferred Subnet Mask Lease Obtained Monday October PM Lease Expires Tuesday October PM Default Gateway DHCP Server DHCPv IAID DHCPv Client DUID - - - - - -FB- -AC- - D- B-ED-F DNS Servers Primary WINS Server NetBIOS over Tcpip Enabled Wireless LAN adapter Wireless Network Connection Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Broadcom GN b g n x Wi-Fi Ada pter Physical Address -ED-B - D- -FD DHCP Enabled Yes Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Link-local IPv Address fe c f e e b fc f Preferred Autoconfiguration IPv Address Preferred Subnet Mask Default Gateway DHCPv IAID DHCPv Client DUID - - - - - -FB- -AC- - D- B-ED-F DNS Servers fec ffff fec ffff fec ffff NetBIOS over Tcpip Enabled Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft to Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter isatap optusnet com au Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter isatap moolahd local Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter Reusable ISATAP Interface CE FC E - F - C C- D - D EBEC Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter isatap DDFAF D- B- -AA A-DBE BA F Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter Reusable ISATAP Interface E ED - - A -BB -FB FA F F Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes And here is a copy of the route print Interface List ac d b ed f Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller ed b d fd Broadcom GN b g n x Wi-Fi Adapter Software Loopback Interface e Microsoft to Adapter e Microsoft ISATAP Adapter e Microsoft ISATAP Adapter e Microsoft ISATAP Adapter e Microsoft ISATAP Adapter e Microsoft ISATAP Adapter e Microsoft ISATAP Adapter e Microsoft ISATAP Adapter IPv Route Table Active Routes Network Destination Netmask Gateway Interface Metric O... Read more
You have an IP on your LAN, but none on your wifi. Check your router to make sure DHCP for wifi is turned on and you have enough available addresses.
Lenovo's VP of Design, David Hill, wants to create a new ThinkPad laptop that is heavily inspired by the old-school designs of popular ThinkPad laptops from the IBM era, stretching as far back as 1992.
I used to use one of those old IBM Thinkpad laptops at around that time and I thought it was the coolest thing ever even if it was terribly slow, weighed almost a ton, had a crappy pixelated display (~2ppi it seemed) and was about a metre thick. I loved it.
Hey guys... I just got a new EVGA GTX650 ti boost superclocked. I just put it in and I was not getting any signal to my monitor. I tried VGA, HDMI and DVI. Nothing worked and when I took it out to try booting with my integrated graphics, I didn't get any signal to my monitor. All of my connections and wires are connected properly, my power supply is the right voltage and has enough power to support my graphics card. My hard drives are spinning but I cant access my BIOS. I have tried everything that is common. I know my graphics card is not defective and im thinking that it might be my motherboard. Any suggestions?
You were using integrated graphics before the discrete card? It's strange that your onboard isn't working if it was before hand. Usually it's just a overlooked cable or something plugged in the wrong place. Did you make any changes to BIOS? Some boards require you to change the primary display adapter to PCIE or onboard. Maybe a BIOS reset will help the situation. I doubt there is any issues with the MOBO itself. I suggest stripping the build down to nothing but the bear essential components for operation. This way you can isolate the issue a lot easier.
Hello TS! I have come here today because I am looking for feedback on a budget build for my friend. His price range is preferably $600-700 but he can go as high as $800ish. This is what I have put together so far: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/9R7gcf
I originally went with a 250GB SSD and 8GB of RAM but he thought it was too little (I was thinking external HDD+250GB). Also what is the consensus here about an i3 versus the 860K? I am thinking the quad core is better over the dual core. Also, should the cost savings from the above questions be translated to a better GPU? Finally, I read online that a 450W PSU wasn't gonna cut it so I upped it to a 750W (same price as 650W after rebate)?
Thanks for the help in advance!
He will be primarily playing DOTA 2 (eSports) and CS:GO (leisure).
Edit/Note: I will also be posting this on Tom's Hardware to get as many opinions as possible, so don't be offended D) if you see it on there!
First I have built a nice system using that board; it was great to work with. Newegg.com has this motherboard and that cpu as a special combo for $133.00.
Second, if that is all he is doing with his system that AMD cpu will do him just fine. i3 is an Intel cpu and when using Intel the unwritten rule is that the i5 quad core is the sweet spot for gaming. But, again, that AMD is quite fine.
Why 16 gigs of RAM? If he was doing video rendering or using intense graphic software I could see it but 8 gigs is very good for gaming. Save money and get only 8 gigs.
Corsair makes great power supplies; good choice.
I really don't know that gpu but from the specs and for what he is doing, again, it will do everything he needs.
I don't know that case. With that motherboard I used the Cooler Master HAF 912. Good room, well built, and plenty of air flow especially with an AMD because they can run hot. You may want to get some extra case fans. Also, perhaps an aftermarket cooler.
I am considering purchasing a MSI ATX DDR3 2133 Motherboard 970 for my new computer build, and heard from somewhere that it is not compatable with windows 7? Is this true?
Where did you hear that? It will run Windows 7 just fine.
Hi All I m planning to build my first ever desktop since my laptop is already having problems and I think it s going to die soon I m going to use the computer mainly for doing D digital artworks editing videos as well as playing games specifically MMORPGs and some like PC First Overclocking) (NO Advice Need Build Gaming Alice Madness amp Skyrim I ll be playing the heavier games on the console so no need to have a monster pc I just First Gaming PC Build Need Advice (NO Overclocking) want something that would accommodate my main use and last First Gaming PC Build Need Advice (NO Overclocking) me a while before I would have the need to upgrade again I also have a budget that I have to stick to I live in the Philippines so it will be Php - Php in USD I think it would be around - As stated above I won t be doing any overclocking whatsoever Here are the specifications of the build I was planning CPU Intel Core i - Processor M Cache up to GHz Motherboard Asus H -PRO GAMER VideoCard EVGA GeForce GTX Ti Superclocked Memory Vengeance Low Profile GB Dual Channel DDR Memory Kit CML GX M A C Storage Samsung GB EVO quot SATA SSD Storage Western Digital Caviar Black TB quot RPM Power Supply Seasonic X W Gold CPU Cooler Cooler Master Seidon V Hybrid Optical Drive ASUS D ST BLACK X SATA Case Obsidian Series D Mid-Tower PC Case Case Fan Scythe Kaze Jyuni PWM mm rpm CFM x Since this is a first opinions are greatly appreciated I m open for First Gaming PC Build Need Advice (NO Overclocking) suggestions if you think there are better parts that should replace the ones listed It would also be very nice if it would be cheaper without losing the performance and quality Thanks in advance nbsp
I'm planning to build my first ever desktop since my laptop is already having problems and I think it's going to die soon...
I'm going to use the computer mainly for doing 2D digital artworks, editing videos as well as playing games, specifically MMORPGs and some like Alice Madness & Skyrim.
I'll be playing the heavier games on the console so no need to have a monster pc.
I just want something that would accommodate my main use and last me a while before I would have the need to upgrade again.
I also have a budget that I have to stick to. I live in the Philippines so it will be Php 50,000 - Php 55,000 , in USD I think it would be around $ 1000 - $ 1200.
As stated above, I won't be doing any overclocking whatsoever.
Here are the specifications of the build I was planning.
CPU: Intel® Core? i5-4690 Processor (6M Cache, up to 3.90 GHz)
Motherboard: Asus H97-PRO GAMER
VideoCard: EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti Superclocked
Memory: Vengeance® Low Profile ? 8GB Dual Channel DDR3 Memory Kit (CML8GX3M2A1600C9)
Storage: Samsung 120 GB 840 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM
Power Supply: Seasonic X650 650W 80+ Gold
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Seidon 120V Hybrid
Optical Drive: ASUS24D3ST BLACK 24X SATA
Case: Obsidian Series® 450D Mid-Tower PC Case
Case Fan: Scythe Kaze Jyuni PWM 120mm, 1300rpm, 74CFM (x3)
Since this is a first, opinions are greatly appreciated. I'm open for suggestions if you think there are better parts that should replace the ones listed. It would also be very nice if it would be cheaper without losing the performance and quality.
Thanks in advance!Click to expand...
What programs do you specifically use for video editing and such?
Also a couple of notes:
1: That PSU is a bit overkill for that build or most builds. I would suggest a Gold Rated 550Watt as being a cheaper better option for you.
2: Save a couple of bucks and grab a Western Digital Blue 1tb HDD or a Seagate Barracuda 1tb HDD. WD Black HDD's are awesome but generally they are a bit more for not much of a difference overall.
Can you link the site from which you are ordering your parts from?
Hi guys I m planning to build my first ever gaming PC I do not know that much about specs and all of that The computer is going to be need first PC for advice build ever my I used for indie games like The Escapists Gmod KSP Pixel Piracy etc heavy games like Skyrim Tomb Raider The Witcher etc and also games like Lichdom Battlemage and Hearthstone It has to be able to play the heaviest games at a consistently high framerate at least - I also own a PS which will be used to play games that are consolebased like ACU horrible game BTW and console exclusive games like Bloodborne Since this is my first ever PC build I want it to last long I won t be doing any overclocking it scares me Therefore I will also be able to pay about I don t know about this pricetag because I don t know how the US taxes and Denmark where I m from has a very large tax I will also be able to pay more than this but I seems right Here are the components that I was planning to use Can you give me some feedback Are there any of these things that won t fit together is I need advice for my first ever PC build something overkill underkill I won t I need advice for my first ever PC build pay for a high end GPU if I have a low end CPU Things have to fit together CPU Intel Core i - Processor M Cache up to GHz GPU GTX Gaming G - MSi MotherBoard Z Gaming - MSi I know nothing about motherboards Memory HyperX Fury Black Series GB x GB Again I know nothing about RAM Storage SAMSUNG EVO MZ- E B AM quot GB SATA III Storage Seagate Barracuda ST DM TB RPM Power Cooler Master G M Would this be enough or would it be overkill CPU Cooler Stock Once again I don t know if this is enough but I am not going to OC sooo Would liquid cooling make sense or should I invest in a stronger cooling unit DVD writer ASUS DVD-Writer Black SATA Model DRW- F ST Case Cooler Master HAF Advanced A case has to be stylish This looks okay and there seems to be room for everything Do I have to buy better fans or are the stock ones good enough Please give me some feedback I really need it to be confident with my PC build If I don t get to know more about this I will have to buy a pre-build PC from another pro company nbsp
Hi. First, I am not sure you are aware of it but right now Newegg.com has a three combo special that includes your processor, motherboard, and memory that will save you $42.00. So you can rest assured what you listed with those items will work well.
1. The i5 is considered by many to be the sweet-spot for gaming. Good choice.
2. HyperX memory is made by Kingston and they manufacture excellent RAM and have for years.
3. That motherboard is a BEAST. Do you need everything/will you utilize everything that it offers?
4. I would just get a stronger cooling unit.
5. Check out Western Digital's Black series for hard drives in the 7200 rpm models.
6. Couldn't say about the psu; I usually use the Corsair line. Whatever you choose seriously consider either the Gold or Plantinum Plus certification. 650 watts of power would probably do you but research how much power that video card demands and what the manufacture recommends.
As for the case, the last four systems I have built have all been encased in the Cooler Master HAF series. I absolutely love them for air flow and build quality but make sure that you purchase a an additional side fan and top fan for greater air flow. Here is a good rule to keep in mind: Between the inflow of air or its exhaust, exhaust is the more important. I would get a 120mm size fan for the side and blow in and a 140mm side for the top as exhaust.
I want to suggest that you seriously consider getting the bigger brother of the 912. I found that the 912 is excellent for the micro-ITX boards but for me personally it seems a little cramped for the standard ATX boards -- though I have done it without issue. Look at the HAF 922 which is a mid-tower but with tons of room; I have one for my main rig. There is the full tower 932 but that is probably overkill.
Hope this helps.
Hi, Guys (And Gals) I'm attempting my 1st PC build and HAVE used the various online power supply calculators... however I'd like to hear some feedback from you all. No matter where I look online I always like to come here to be sure. My specs for the build are as follows:
MoBo: GIGABYTE GA-F2A68HM-H FM2+ USB 3.0 MATX
Amd A6 5400K 3600Mhz Blk Edt 1mb 65w Socket FM2
Video Card: XFX RADEON R7 240 2GB DDR3 LOW PROFILE
RAM: ADATA XPG V1 DDR3 1600 4GB
HDD: Seagate 1TB Serial ATA HD 7200/64MB/SATA-6G
I would really like to use one of the 350W or 400W power supply I stripped from my previous PC's. I'm thinking of hooking it to an HDMI or VGA projector eventually though (Haven't bought it yet) Can I get away with one of these and play a game like World of Warcraft? or do I need to order something like the
SolidGear 650W PS2 ATX Power Supply on Tiger Direct?
Thanks in advance for any advice & thoughts
Over engineer the PS;
Calculate the actual needed power,
add a fudge factor and
multiply by 1.5.
Then round up to the next commonly available size
Is this a good build to play newer shooter games and games like the witcher 3
Any recommendations for better parts this will cost $473 is budget is 500
Compatibility Check: No issues/incompatibilities found
AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor
$96.93 $96.93 OutletPC
Cooler Master RR-HT2-28PK-R1 54.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
$15.99 $15.99 SuperBiiz
MSI 760GMA-P34(FX) Micro ATX AM3+ Motherboard
$54.99 -$10.00 $44.99 Micro Center
$10.00 mail-in rebate
Mushkin Essentials 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
$50.99 FREE $50.99 Newegg
Add Additional Memory
Western Digital RE3 750GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
$28.01 $3.99 $32.00 Amazon
Add Additional Storage
Gigabyte Radeon R9 280 3GB WINDFORCE Video Card
$179.99 -$20.00 $2.99 $162.98 Newegg
$20.00 mail-in rebate
Thermaltake Commander MS-I ID ATX Mid Tower Case
$47.99 -$15.00 $32.99 Micro Center
$15.00 mail-in rebate
EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply
$36.99 $36.99 SuperBiiz
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/92ZHZL
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/92ZHZL/by_merchant/
CPU: AMD Athlon X4 860K 3.7GHz Quad-Core Processor ($72.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper TX3 54.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($17.22 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock FM2A88X Extreme4+ ATX FM2+ Motherboard ($76.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($60.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.75 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon R9 285 2GB WINDFORCE 2X Video Card ($162.98 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($29.99 @ NCIX US)
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-05-31 08:39 EDT-0400
Hello pc builders, I'd like to ask for some advice on building a gaming pc. I've picked out some parts that I think are good, but I do not know that much about custom building computers and what parts are most suitable for gaming.
I'm trying to keep the price limit at $1000 USD. Here are the parts that I've picked out.
CPU: Intel Core i5-4570 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: MSI Z97-GAMING 7 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
HDD: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card
Power Supply: Corsair CX 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
Case (probs doesn't matter) Cooler Master Storm Scout 2 Advanced ATX Mid Tower Case
Looks like a nice build to me
I would drop the cpu down to this
and upgrade the gpu to this
As I don't go menu and Monitor's won't buttons the work away am writing this I have this blue square on the screen with all the settings for this monitor Whichever button I press on the monitor the menu won t go away Not even the power button works so that means I can Monitor's menu won't go away and the buttons don't work t disable Monitor's menu won't go away and the buttons don't work the monitor Unplugging and plugging it back in doesn t work as soon as the picture appears the menu appears Monitor's menu won't go away and the buttons don't work as well Let me give you a bit of a history as it might help determine the cause About a month ago my old monitor monitor started behaving weird It started turning itself off every now and again Sometimes few times a minute Every time it turns off it turns back on with the splash screen saying quot BENQ quot and everything I had no idea why it does that I tried pressing the buttons on it to go into the menu but every button seemed to shut it off and every button seemed to turn it on So I gave it to a family friend to try and fix it He said that the quot control board quot started dying and that he doesn t have a spare one or something like that He then gave me a spare monitor of his monitor until I can buy a new one or fix monitor So I took monitor from him and sent monitor to the shop so they can try and fix it About a week passes and the shop calls and says that they fixed monitor I go and pick it up and when I came home I unplug monitor and plug in monitor monitor was working perfectly then Monitor worked for about minutes and started shutting down again And when I tried using the buttons they wouldn t work again Same thing as last time So I return it to the shop and tell them that it doesn t work That was about a week and a half ago They still didn t fix it The problem is now the monitor also started having problems It doesn t turn off yet but the menu buttons don t work Power button doesn t work Nothing And on top of that the menu won t disappear from the screen As I am typing this there s a menu on top of everything Every now and again the menu will switch to a different option like quot brightness quot quot auto adjustment quot and such like the buttons are being pressed Now I am wondering could it be that my PC is quot breaking quot these monitors Is there a way for a PC to physically damage a monitor What should I do in that case Also I should say that ever since monitor died and after I installed monitor my PC has been getting blue screens of death It hasn t happened once in years since I got this PC and it started after I got monitor I don t know if that s something that s important but there it is If you need more info please let me know I am trying to figure out what is happening and every bit of help is appreciated Thank you nbsp
No one has any relevant information?
Hello its my first post!
Well anyways I just build my first ever pc using tutorials like (Austin Evans) well I build it turned it on, and all the fans would work then right after stop! Sometimes I get one bleep from the psu, What should I do as im really annoyed as I spent hours do this!
Since you say the machine tries to boot, I'll assume the front panel connectors are correctly connected.
Make sure all cards, memory, and cables are properly seated. Including the 4pin/8pin motherboard power connector.
Try a different PSU. I had a PSU go out that acted this way, after an instant shutdown. Yours could be a DOA that acts the same way.
Try a single RAM module at a time. Switch modules if the first one doesn't help.
Try with all unnecessary components disconnected. Any damaged component can keep the PSU from receiving power good status.
I have a Gateway NE56R and ever since I updated to windows 8.1 I cannot use the internet at home even though it says it is connected to WiFi, but it works at other places. Please help asap
Neither my keyboard or mouse are working on any of the 7 USB ports on my computer. My mouse was initially working, but I read somewhere if you delete the keyboard drivers you can reinstall them and it will work again. BUT when I was doing that I stupidly uninstalled my mouse driver so now NOTHING works. I can't try if it works in safe mode because my keyboard doesn't respond when I hit f12 during boot up.
When I plug in the mouse or keyboard, I get a window that pops up asking if I want to install the hardware, but it's impossible for me to do anything because my mouse and keyboard don't work! If anyone has any ideas I would greatly appreciate the help. Thanks!
First I would try to find a different working keyboard because you should at less be able to boot into safe mode because the drivers don't even load until windows start loading.
Hey guys im looking to retrofit my 6 year old gaming PC here soon, and by retrofit I mean totally rebuild it. here is my current build:
AMD Phenom II X6 1075T 3.00Mhz
6gb DDR3 RAM
Nvidia GTX 470
my question is this, I am really not having too many issues with frame rates yet even on the brand new games so I was wondering if upgrading to SLI on the GTX470's would be comparable to upgrading to a GTX 970? Thanks for the help guys
I was wondering if upgrading to SLI on the GTX470's would be comparable to upgrading to a GTX 970?Click to expand...
I would say yes. Just look at the benchmarks from Passmark. The 970 is more than twice the performance of a 470.
Hi, this is my first post on techspot, and I am kind of a newbie on building pc. I have never done it and been looking up everything I can. My needs are just basically normal computing but I want to be able to play new games (shadow of mordor). I dont do any video editing or anything. I have been reading that an i3 will be fine and I need a good gpu instead of overkill on a cpu. I also want a good mobo that has plenty of potential (something about more ports???). I just need to be steered in the right direction of what to get without blowing out the budget. I dont play too many games (and no fps and very few online). I just dont want to see a new game in 6 months that I want and dont have minimum sys requirements. Also I was very skeptical about getting an AMD cpu instead because they get so much hotter, but I know alot of people will recomend it. Sorry for being so longwinded.
Have you thought of going down the used parts path as you seem to be wanting a machine "cheap" with an i3 instead of looking at what kind of job you really want it to do, unless you will only be playing games in a really low resolution (fps). E.g. the Intel NUC and the ASUS Vivo have Core i3 CPU and they are nothing like a gaming PC.
Here is a couple of pros for a Core i5, and they are;
"Intel Turbo Boost":- Which lets the processor increase its clockspeed whenever the workload on the CPU increases and none of the Core i3 CPUs have Turbo Boost.
"Cache":- The i3 (Ivy Bridge) processors have 3MB (except 4 Clarkdale processors which have 4MB) of cache all the Core i5s (except 4 Ivy Bridge processors which have 3MB and 6 Clarkedale which have 4MB), have 6MB of cache. The cache is like RAM for the processor but it is built into the processor chip. So this gives it (the CPU) access to the memory storage a lot quicker. Without a CPU memory cache and RAM the CPU would need to access the HDD which would be even slower.
Searched eBay.com.au for "i5 cpu" in "Computer components and parts" and had a myriad of choices.
You really need to decide on the CPU first then mobo and then components (small SSD for the O/S, graphics card and RAM) and lastly a PSU to power all your choices (you could even bung a cheap PSU in just to get the rig going, so long as you realise that it WILL fail down the line!)
Hope this helps
Edit:- Changed CPU listings to be accurate for world-wide purchasing as some markets did not get some CPU incarnations released as a new product (based entirely on the Ivy Bridge and Clarkdale Core i3 / i5)
Reference Intel 2105/03/22 from http://ark.intel.com/.
Google released the original Chromebook Pixel a little over two years ago. At $1,299, the system didn't make a ton of sense for most but what it did was serve as an example of what a high-end Chromebook could look...
Hey I m new to this site and I was wondering if I could get some help with my computer From what I ve seen it says my computer is compatible with all the parts I ve chosen Compatible? Is Build My But I wanted some help on here to make sure they will work Below are a list of parts that I will be getting CPU Intel Xeon E - V GHz Quad-Core Processor Motherboard MSI Z Guard-Pro ATX LGA Motherboard CPU Cooler Corsair H i CFM Liquid CPU Cooler RAM Kingston Fury Black Series Is My Build Compatible? GB x GB DDR - Memory Hard Drive Seagate Barracuda TB quot RPM Internal Hard Drive Hard Drive Seagate Barracuda TB quot RPM Internal Hard Drive GPU EVGA GeForce GTX GB ACX Video Card Case Deepcool TESSERACT SW ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply Corsair CSM W Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply Optical Drive Sony S-CB-PLUS DVD CD Writer Other Parts I Is My Build Compatible? will figure out later Just to give some perspective I will be using the computer to record videos play games and render out edited videos If you think there are better parts to suit the build or if there are any parts that need to be exchanged please tell me below Also I want to stay at least under Thanks Jettster nbsp
Personaly from just a quick overview so dont take everything for my word, this build seems like it would work well.
What I would do is:
1) I dont think that this build will be able to use a 450W PSU because your parts are pretty high end and the 970 draws alot of power (145W around about) plus everything else I think that you should get a 500W+ PSU so you wont ever have problems related to power you can overclock and be a little future proof.
2) Why not go with more lower storage HDD's and put them in RAID 0? like 3 1tb HDD? each having like 75mb/s totaling to 225mb/s at the minimum as most modern HDDs are faster than those speeds.
Hope this helped and this is only what I would do. Dont take my word for any facts etc from this comment.
I put together a list of parts for my first gaming PC for under here is the list of parts http pcpartpicker com user Linkin saved jTfRsY What do you guys think Please tell me if all the parts are compatible good quality and what settings this build is able to play Dying Light The Evil Within Skyrim Minecraft Max Payne Metro Last Light Bioshock Infinite and a few other games and how much FPS I will most likely be able to get this PC and everything else like the monitor OS optical drive keyboard mouse and anything else in July because right now I have and my birthday is in July I usually get around - from my whole family I will also sell my laptop for because on a site it said it is worth that much I might make a few extra bucks through that time so I will have about - I might be able to get better parts if I do get that much Anyway I hope you guys can help and PLEASE as best as you can try to estimate how good it can handle some of the games I listed above it will be a HUGE help thanks a lot guys nbsp
Get a SSD drive for the boot drive, it will make things load faster, keep the hard drive for u'r down loads, program files, and things that do have to load as fast. and I would advise getting a modular PSU it will make keeping the wires in the case a whole lot cleaner, because u do not have near as many wires connected that way.
I have a computer that I built and I am pretty sure the motherboard is going out on me... Any suggestions for a new motherboard that will support the parts I already have from my previous build?
MoBo - thats going out - : ASUS Crosshair IV Extreme AM3 AMD 890FX SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Extended ATX AMD Moboo
Processor: AMD Phenom II X6 1100T Black Edition Thuban 6-Core 3.3GHz, 3.7GHz Turbo Socket AM3 125W Desktop Processor
Hard Drive: Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 ST3000DM001 3TB 7200RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X + Turbulence II Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2133 (PC3 17000) Desktop Memory Model F3-17000CL9Q-16GBXLD
Videocard: EVGA 02G-P3-1386-KR GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
I built this thing around 2011 so any suggestions for something new that will work for me?
Take a look here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&IsNodeId=1&N=100007625 600158776
My PC with windows 7 is the only computer with issues in the house. Ethernet works perfectly but wifi doesn't even when I don't have the ethernet hooked up. The wifi says it is connected but browsers, steam, and Itunes don't work. I have Bitdefender A/V and already tried uninstalling it, no change. I also uninstalled steam and Itunes with still no change. I even uninstalled and reinstalled the drivers for the wireless adapter. I tried looking and I don't recall downloading or installing anything around the time the problem started. Before I try replacing the adapter itself, I was hoping for help here since I saw a very similar problem in another thread.
If there is any more info I can give to help you help me, please let me know.
I have an Acer that spontaneously decided I no longer needed to play games. Everything else works perfectly fine. It's been doing this for the past few weeks and I've done all that I can. I'm no tech wizard by any means and I need some help. Pretty much it'll open to the load screen for a few moments then disappear back to my home screen. Any ideas on what it could be and what I can do?
These are the specs:
Acer Aspire V5 Touch with Windows 8.1
Model number: Z5WV2
If you need more info let me know, I still have everything for it.
If you are talking about the games that are loaded by a app. You will need to uninstall the app. Then reinstall the app. I have no ideal why this happens . But I have seen it more then once.
I recently just built a gaming PC with my friend I have installed all of the drivers for the GPU from the installation disk it came displays dark. Build. glitches goes then New problem? Monitor GPU with Windows has been updated fully also besides three updates that continue to fail They are just security updates they may or may not be the problem The PC runs fine and the display will show New Build. Monitor displays glitches then goes dark. GPU problem? clear and crisp for about half an hour until New Build. Monitor displays glitches then goes dark. GPU problem? glitches will start to appear in the screen and next the monitor will appear black The light is still on and the PC is still running whatever it was last I know this because it did it during a driver installation and after I waited an hour and then restarted the PC the driver install was done Often after I restart the PC nothing will show up at all If I wait awhile and get lucky it will boot up normal The glitches happen most often when I try to run a game The mentioned updates continue to fail and idk why I have ran a troubleshoot for the PC as well and the it says no driver can be found for the PCI Simple Communications Controller After I choose to search for the driver online or on my computer it says no driver found During a Windows Update failure I got another error message concerning my graphics driver saying a problem could ve occurred because a graphics driver is missing Yet the program GPU Tweak that was installed with the disk says that everything s up-to-date When I try to update manually it says the sam thing This computer was not expensive I can post exact specs when I can get back into it and maybe some pics Specs Not listed is a terabyte of memory blu-ray burner and and an msi Z -G Gaming motherboard I have a strong internet connection and am using a DVI port for the monitor I have ruled out the monitor as the problem Before I said the PC was NOT expensive I meant NOT cheap I spent around on the parts nbsp
Looking at the screen shot of GPU-Z it appears you are running a AMD Catalyst 13.8 BETA drivers. I would suggest downloading the latest drivers from AMD: AMD Catalyst Omega Drivers 14.12. Then go into your control panel and completely uninstall the amd catalyst from your computer. Once completed, you may need to reboot the computer. After reboot, install the newest drivers from the link I posted above. Do so and then try again to produce same error results. Let us know if it works or not so we can try other options, or resolve the issue.
Can I run 1600mhz ram on a mb which is supported 1333mhz (my config MSI-760gm P21-FX 1gb asus amd radeon 5450 gfx card And 4gb rm of 600mhz.
1600 MHz RAM should down-clock to 1333MHz just fine, but I will not make guaranties. It usually works perfect, but there is always the possibility of incompatibilities.
The GPU memory and frequency is independent and irrelevant for this topic.
I have done everything I can think of. I have windows 7 64 bit. I have disabled/re-enabled sound cards, uninstalled/reinstalled drivers. I have checked all settings I possibly can think of. My head phones work GREAT and on startup I can hear the sound, but once in windows, no sounds through my speakers.
I installed win 7 x86 on a sony vaio vpceb36fg. Everything seems OK but the Fn keys. The combination of Fn+related keys work only for sound volume and screen lock button and not for others!
How to get all Fn keys worked please?
Is it needed to install any tool/utility?
Your laptop came with Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit so I'm curious as to why you decided to install a 32 bit version.
Laptops, particularly Vaios, have specific functions assigned to keys. On yours you were previously able to surf the web and play DVDs without booting up into Windows. To regain all that you've lost will take quite a bit of work. The utilities you need will be on a Sony support site. However, sometimes things have to be installed in a particular order before they work. It took me a long time Googling, downloading utilities and experimenting to get everything working when I reinstalled the OS on my Vaio.
Before I say anything else, I am very new to building a computer. Ive never built one in my life. I am curious if the setup I have to far will work! I am trying to look for pretty cheap but good options for parts. So far I have a case, processor, and GPU in mind. I need ideas for the motherboard especially. I dont know how to tell if everything would work correctly, so if something would be incompatible, could you tell me?
So far I have
GPU: Nvidia GTX 760
CPU: Intel Core i7-3770k
Case: NZXT Phantom 240 Mid Tower
Hard-Drive: Seagate Barracuda 2TB HDD
Operating System: Windows 7 64 Bit
Would there be anything else I need? Also what is thermal compound and Heatsink? Are these required for my setup? Please tell me if there is anything wrong with this so far and what items I should use for the unfilled spaces! Thank you all so much!
I have a good system. I am likely to give it to my daughter and build a new one. I have read a few reviews of some new Motherboards and processors taking advantage of the new DDR4.
Does anyone have any insight on if its prudent to build in spring or perhaps wait>?
I can wait as my system is still very good. I just like fiddling with new stuff and builds.
Also will Windows 10 be available for builds by this time or again is this a wait and see?
You can install the preview version of 10 (beta work-in-progress). DDR4 more expensive than DDR3 but of course if you plan on buying CPU to take advantage of DDR4 speed would be the way to go for now.
all the parts etc will they last ? I wont be doing hardcore like using it all the time but I do want top of the line stuff. I don't mind prices at all. I like to pay for stuff thats worth it.
What could I edit in this build to to make it either better bang for its buck and better for performance?
I want to play all games at ultra and I want to be able to not upgrade anything for a couple years or so.
I mainly will be playing old games like modding GTA IV etc...
Surprised no one has responded to this yet.
Without knowing what games you might eventually get, its hard to build a computer that can play "ultra" setting. Games being released now are requiring better (if not top of the line - depending on the game) components.
If you were to use the existing setup that you have linked, I would suggest changing a couple things:
The RAM is rated at 1.6V and the motherboard is 1.5V. This is a small issue, but you should try to make sure that it is the same voltage. Makes for less "headaches" while trying to setup the computer. I would also suggest with the RAM - go 16GB (2x8GB) instead of 8GB (2x4GB). 8GB is the norm for gaming now, but who knows in the future. Better to get it now and out of the way, if you can afford it.
I would suggest getting a 800W (or higher) Power Supply instead of the 600W you have listed. This way "if" you do decide to get a different (or add a second) video card, you will have plenty of power to supply to it.
Last thing is you did not include a case to house all of these parts. I would suggest something that has "breathing" room. Get a case that you can add in a couple case fans to create proper air circulation and help eliminate heat buildup.
This is all just my opinion though, so take it as you want. But if you really want to "future proof" as much as possible, my suggestions would help a good deal with doing so.
Let us know what you end up deciding and ultimately come out with when (and if) you build this computer.
I don't know if this is the topic/forum. I was wondering if this pc build could play all of the following.
Grand theft auto V(GTA5 for when it comes out)
Grand theft auto IV
battle field 3
battle field 4
all metro city's
And a lot of games like that to medium-high-max settings.
If I posted this on the wrong forum I'm sorry.
If you guys want you can post part suggestions.
Lets start with: What is your overall budget for this build? We might be able to build something better depending on how much you have.
Going with what you currently have listed I would suggest only minor changes to include:
The motherboard is a Dual Channel RAM setup - So you need to find RAM that comes as a pair (2x4GB instead of 1x8GB) for better efficiency.
I would also suggest getting a PSU (power supply) that is from a better known manufacture. Yes the one you selected will work, but the lesser brand ones have the tendency to fail more often (and the one you selected does not have too many good reviews).
I have a toshiba laptop right at a year of having it, it will not allow me to get internet connection even though it shows its getting wifi or set up through the router.. Is this a virus or other issue
Moving this topic to appropriate forum.
Hey guys, my laptop asus stopped working with wifi connection and I was just reading some posts here about this same problem but didn't find how to fix it.
I was uninstalling some programs from my pc but I didn't uninstall programs named "something wireless". I just took off what I knew I could.
I also tried the option "solve problems" in the wireless pc symbol and the answer was to connect my laptop to an ethernet cable...that never happened. Just now.
Does anyone knows how I get back my wireless connection? Pleasee
Powercycle the modem and router. Here is a specific order if you have a separate modem and router.
1. Shut down all PC's.
2. Shut down the Modem and router.
3. Power on the modem only. Wait 2 minutes or so.
4. Power on the router. Wait 2 minutes or so.
If you have a modem/router combo, then you don't need step 4.
5. Boot up the PC and see if you can connect.
Okay, I really want to build a gaming PC.
BUT I DON'T KNOW WHERE TO START.
So, I basically want to build a gaming computer for the experience of putting one together.
I'd rather have intel or AMD, whichever is fine.
My budget is anything, but $650-700 MAX.
Now, I know 650-700 is minimum for a GAMING computer (at least I think I know), but all I want to do on the computer is normal gaming. Like, not hardcore 4k thing or whatever, but just ONE monitor playing a simple game. I don't need ULTRA graphic settings on the game, low-medium but still high dps is absolutely fine. I just want to be able to play modern games smoothly.
I have an idea of some stuff I want, BUT I have NO CLUE with compatibility with these things. I don't know how to tell this stuff.
So could someone give me the parts of a good computer for a gamer such as I? I play WoW, D3, MC, L4D2, SMITE, etc.
I shoulda asked this earlier....today's Cyber Monday.. I NEED TO SQUEEZE IN SOME PURCHASES!
Thanks!! Please help me out
Well, since nobody else replied, here is a start: http://www.techspot.com/guides/buying/page3.html
Hi all I have to the WLAN work as rather Router on from a WiFi LAN a a typical situation in my Internet and LAN setup My ISP provides me with a direct LAN cable that I need to connect either into my PC or into the WiFi Router WLAN port I also have a LAN that I need to connect to so I have installed a separate LAN card for the internal LAN purposes My two setups are below with their issues I hope someone can suggest a middle grounds to have a LAN and a WiFi too Scenario The ISP cable goes into the WLAN port of the Router Cables from the router goes into my PC network card and to other PCs for LAN purposes The PC cards are all configured to automatic IP LAN Internet WiFi is now available This works fine for a few days and then the internet stops working because there is a conflict of IP The ISP expects IPs like xxx and the one on the LAN Router for my PC is Scenario Router to work as a WiFi on the LAN rather from a WLAN The ISP cable goes into network card internet sharing is enabled Router to work as a WiFi on the LAN rather from a WLAN and automatic IP with the ISP s expected IP xxx Another cable goes from my PC s network card fixed IP into the regular LAN port of the same Router Without any issues over the months the Internet works the LAN works other PCs have fixed IPs too etc but no Wifi Can I have best of both the worlds in such a situation I can t install a rd network card for sure as the slot on the mother board is limited Please advise Thanks in advance Bhavbhuti nbsp
isp==>(wan)router-->PC card-1, et al (conflict 123.237,234.xxx v 192.168.1.100)
scenario-1 is a configuration or firmware condition
scenario-2 is a real security issue and the primary PC is basically acting as a DMZ server and is at risk.
Here's my setup:
isp==(wan)router-1--- PCs in the same room
+---(lan)router-2(with wifi) - - - wifi connections in the den
configuration to make this work with full file/print sharing:
disable DHCP in this router
setup all WiFi settings here
notice: router-2 wan slot is left empty to make this work
set LAN address of router one as you please (eg: 192.168.1.1 )
set an address reservation for router-2's MAC -> a fixed, constant IP address on that same subnet (eg 192.168.1.254)
set the DHCP range small (eg 2-32)
router-1 will control all auto-ip assignments for both routers.
Personally, I add another tweak;
reserve ip addresses for all of my devices into the low-end of the dhcp range (say 2-10) and
let 'guests' take addresses above 10
This gives the opportunity to allow file/print sharing to known systems (2-10) and disallow for the guests.
Setup totally within the routers allow my laptop to travel and not be effected by these choices.
Well I am accessing my remote router via and it works access work via phone, Remote PC doesnt via ok when I am using my Phone s Remote access ok via phone, doesnt work via PC browser chrome or IE on Samsung however when I am at computer at work I cant access my router I ran Tracert and I am getting up to hoops and th says quot Request timed out quot lt ms lt ms ms lt ms lt ms lt ms lt ms lt ms lt ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms Remote access ok via phone, doesnt work via PC ms ms ms border ge - unitedair- chg pnap net ms ms ms core te - -bbnet chg pnap net ms ms ms ae - chi ip gtt net ms ms ms xe- - - chi ip gtt net ms ms ms c-eth- - - -pe ecermak il ibone comcast ms ms ms he- - - - -cr ecermak il ibone comcast ms ms ms ms ms ms te- - - - -sur mortongrove il chicago com net ms ms ms te- - -cdn mortongrove il chicago comcas t Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Trace complete Anyone would know why it works on the phone and doesnt really go through all the way to the end nbsp
Ok I have to ask first when you are using your phone is it always using mobile data or do you connect it at work via wifi? When reason that makes sense to me is at your work they maybe blocking the remote port. I guess it all depends on what you are using also. If you are just using standard RDP then they might be blocking port 3389. If you could give further information on how you are connecting remotely whether using software such as teamviewer or just standard RDP. Also how do you have your router configured. I can better understand witht is information thanks....
Hi. Im about To build a gaming pc and I have came up with This :
inno 3d ichill geforce gtg 980 herculeZ x4 air boss ultra 4gb GDDR5, DVI, HDMI, 3xdisplayport
Cooler master nepton 280L watercooling system
XFX pro650W core edition full wired power supply
Intel core i7-5820k, 6x 3.30ghz
Fractal design define r4 titnaium grey window
Crucial 8gb ddr4 2133 x 2
is this a good build ?
Moderator note: This thread has been moved from another member's thread.
Hi. Im about To build a gaming pc and I have came up with This :
inno 3d ichill geforce gtg 980 herculeZ x4 air boss ultra 4gb GDDR5, DVI, HDMI, 3xdisplayport
Cooler master nepton 280L watercooling system
XFX pro650W core edition full wired power supply
Intel core i7-5820k, 6x 3.30ghz
Fractal design define r4 titnaium grey window
Crucial 8gb ddr4 2133 x 2
is this a good build ?Click to expand...
You should start your own thread next time with the question instead but its decent depending on what your wanting. I am also a bit confused by your wording in spots because it sounds a bit weird.
Are you just gaming on this machine or do you have other ideas in mind?
Hello everyone - I have just assembled a new build It will not power up I need a suggestion to figure out if the problem is the case or the motherboard This is a mini-itx build power-up: power New or Build MB? no supply case's The case is New Build no power-up: case's power supply or MB? Linkworld LC - B This case comes with a volt watt external laptop-style power supply that plugs into the rear of the case just like New Build no power-up: case's power supply or MB? a laptop power supply plugs into a laptop - a barrel connector Inside this power connection connects to a power supply component that is not like a regular ATX power supply but is on a printed-circuit board New Build no power-up: case's power supply or MB? mounted on the case This has several capacitors and other stuff From that comes the -pin and -pin power supply lines for the motherboard I assume the -volt power supply for this external power supply unit is right since it came with the case It was watt The processor is an IBM t with TDP of watts Lower-powered CPUs can be put in a small so I assumed the power supply might be under-powered I ordered a -watt volt power supply with the right size barrel - and same polarity pos inside The MB is an ASRock H MV-ITX It is mini-itx form factor Still same problem Everything is connected correctly When I press the power-on button an external CD drive I have plugged-in spins up for a while But no power light comes on in the front of the case there are no POST beeps the fan for the CPU does not spin up No other signs of life So power is getting into the MB - the external CD drive is plugged into a USB socket in the rear panel of the MB After trying a watt and watt power supply I believe the problem cannot be the power supply cord Can it be that I have too little load I don t think so I plugged in another mm fan and an ol-fashion floppy drive just the power connection to add more load - same thing no power-up no POST nothing but the CD drive will spin up when I open-then-close it yet again So here is the help I need what else can I try -assuming the MB and case are fine is it more likely the case power supply is bad or the MB --Thanks nbsp
Well, I figured out the problem.
I am planning to re-do the older mini-itx system I have; it has gotten riddled with Trojan software for kids downloading games; it basically has been de-commissioned already.
So, I took the pico-psu power supply from that older computer, and hooked it up to the one I am making. Everything went perfectly.
So, I un-did that, removed the MB from case, disconnected the barrel-power connection from the case, unscrewed and removed the power supply that had been mounted in the case, put the pico-psu power supply back in place (I had to drill the hole for the barrel-connection out to be a little bigger since the pico-psu internal/external connection is threaded and held in place by nut with lock washer), and routed wires to be clear of cpu fan, screwed MB to stand-offs, and closed it all up.
now, everything is great. I like this linkworld case, but the power supply is worthless. I may try to get a few dollars back from the ebay vendor, to make me happy with a case that is less than what I should have gotten, but is working for me; I don't want to wait on returns, etc.
I have a problem with my laptop.
Sometimes the space bar, n and enter key stops working. When this happens, I can usually hit the button a few times and the key finally registers. It happens randomly and quite often. But sometimes I can type for hours without it happening.
I have not spilled any liquid on my laptop and I haven't dropped it. The problem started randomly a few months ago.
Does anyone know what could be causing this?
The laptop is an Asus K55V. It is nearly 3 years old
Not sure if this might work that well, but give it a try! If it doesn't..go to a technician...its probably the best idea.
Shut down the laptop, removed battery and cable for a moment, press and hold the start button for 60 seconds... and replace the battery.. start the lap top.
Hope this helps!
My new build wont power on all I hear is a few high pitch sounds coming from what I think is the psu.
SSD 128GB SAMSUNG 850 Pro
1TB HDD (from previous build it was working fine 2 days ago)
2TB HDD(from previous build it was working fine 2 days ago)
GPU = GTX 680 2GB (from previous build it was working fine 2 days ago) MSI GTX 970 GAMING 4G GeForce GTX 970 4GB 256-Bit on it's way in the mail.
Case is pretty old and doesnt have a lid but it was working fine with my pervious buid)
PSU = CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750W ATX12V v2.31/ EPS12V v2.92 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC High Performance Power Supply (from previous build it was working fine 2 days ago)
Heatsink = Scythe Ashura Universal Processor Cooler
CPU = Intel Core i7-4790K Haswell Refresh Quad-Core 4.0GHz
Motherboard = MSI Z97-Gaming 7 Intel Z97 Motherboard
Memory = CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory
Please help me
Disconnect everything except the monitor, cpu, ram. In fact, go down to 1 stick of ram. Will it POST now?
This build will be for my 77 year old mother who lives in another state and I am trying to build this as stable and problem free preventative mode as best as I can with the understanding that any hardware can fail at any time.
Anyway, NewEgg is having both their Blue and Black WD 1TB hard drives on sale that goes off of sale after tomorrow. I know Black is often the choice due to build quality and 5 year warranty. However, the Blue would really help budget wise because every dollar counts and it sees many people have had good success with the Blue.
She does MS Office, email, surfing plus she has an online business that keeps her very busy along with uploading a lot of photos.
Blue. Because of her work tasks.
Hi, I'm building a budget gaming PC but I don't know what motherboard to get. Here's the parts I'm planning on buying:
Intel Core i5-3570
Corsair Builder Series CX 430
A H77 board will do as the cost of a K cpu and Z77 board (I presume) would cost way more. I'm thinking something around the price of a Asus P8H77-V LE.
It matters on what brand you buy. Some H77 motherboards come close to low end Z77 boards. Also, the 3570K is just $20 more and allows for you to unlock your system fully as long as you have proper cooling.
If you would like, I can take a look at your build and recommend better components if I see it fit. Just provide me with a budget .
What the title says. I bought a TP-Link WDR4300 and installed it, and everything works perfectly on every device except for my laptop (Windows 8.1 Lenovo G480, running Windows Defender as AV). When connecting wirelessly, I get access to the router, but it shows "limited", and it doesn't even let me get into the setup page (192.168.0.1) and when I ping it, every packet is lost. Ethernet, meanwhile, works perfectly. I'd appreciate any suggestions on how to fix it.
I'd like to attach the ipconfig outputs but my command prompt is in spanish and some of the characters are missing in the .txt file, too. I don't know how to get the file in english.
@jobeard I saw one thread you solved in which you said to mention you so you could help. I'd really appreciate it. Thanks beforehand for any and all suggestions.
Hi, You will always have to use the ethernet (Cat 5) cable to get into your router's software, at 192.168.0.1, all routers are set up like that for security reasons.
It's done that way so that no one can change your settings, passwords etc using a wireless connection, you must use the Cat 5 cable to make setup & security changes.
Did you get any setup software with the TP Link router?
If you get good internet access using Windows 8.1 using the ethernet cable, it
might point to possible wireless driver issues.
It might be worth downloading the latest driver for your WDR4300 from the TP-link website;
Hi guys I have a new job build, after advice A new and few outgoing troubles for the moment so I decided I want to throw some A new build, after advice money away while I can For years I have a had a really simple PC usually for uni basic gaming etc with only a couple of upgrades to GPU PSU but now I A new build, after advice have the itch to create something bigger and largely unnecessary I have read and read and snooped and searched A new build, after advice various tech-based sites but it is kind of like opening a book to the middle and trying to understand what is going on so I am here to ask you fine people for some compatibility questions as well as obvious things I may have skipped over or missed Here is a quick list of things I have ended up being interested in MBoard Asus Maximus VII Hero Z or something similar CPU i - K GHz not sure to the benefits of jumping to i or such GPU s In this respect I am perfectly open to discussion I am willing to pay in total for something ridiculous MSI GTX Ti x PSU EVGA w P Memory Corsair Vengeance Pro x gb DDR - Basically the idea is to spend unnecessarily but also with a little future-proofing in there Things to bare in mind I am by no means rich but at this point in time I would like to spend a little money on myself Seriously though in total anything to give or take a couple hundred would be acceptable Secondly this build would be something I need to spend a month or two saving for to buy so if there is anything new and sparkly coming out in the near future I am sure that I am totally oblivious to it so feel free to advise Thank you in advance for anyone who helps me out nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/a-new-build-after-advice.205476/
I just finished assembling my first build. At first it turned on without a hitch, was able to install windows and a few drivers.
I had to restart a few times, which went fine for the first few times, and then it just didn't boot back up. The power button doesn't do anything, the fans don't start, nothing happens.
When I jump the psu, all the fans start, so I'm thinking the issue must be with the mobo..
Here's a list of all the parts I'm using : http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/JFVvD3
First, are any wires touching that might be causing a short such as a wire touching the back of the mobo? Second, I had something similar happen to me a few years ago with a new build. There is a tried and true though often tedious way that can help diagnose possible issues.
1. Remove all hardware except for one RAM stick from the motherboard and this includes Sata and fan connections to peripherals such as your SSD, etc,
2. Now see if the system boots with only the one RAM stick. If it boots then shut down add the second stick of RAM and then reboot. If it boots then repeat by adding a piece at a time.
3. If is doesn't boot then it is either your mobo or your power supply. Also, check to see if your heat sink is seated correctly.
BTW, nice little system there.
My internet wont work, ive tried using both crome and IE but both browsers say that I am not connected to the internet despite the fact my computer says that I am connected to the internet. I know its not a network problem because my other devices are connecting fine. Also I tried connecting to the wifi at home and at school and it still does not work. My laptop is a HP ProBook 6390b and I am using windows 7. This problem started occurring after about 4 months disuse of my laptop which I think might be a factor as to why its not working. I have run windows updater and run a scan with my antivirus but still nothing helps. Thank you for any assistance in advance.
Have you kept up and installed all the Windows 7 updates and are there any yellow (!) in the device manager?
I got a hp 6371it
link --> (http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c02054227&tmp_track_link=ot_faqs/top_issues/it_i...
I have this problem: I bought a kingston Dimm ValueRam 4GB DDR3 1333MHz Non-ECC CL9 (it is compatible with my mb according to hp website). I installed it on my pc and:
1) if I install just that ram it works fine
2) if I install that ram I bought and one ore both ram I had already installed in my pc it doens't work or it blocks on hp main screen or it appears the classic blue screen of hardware error and it never enter on windows (it asks for a system reinstallation)
what is the problem? should I do something else? I tried mounting rams in different slots, I tried everything
Sound as though the ram you bought is not compatible with the existing ram. Is the ram you bought the same specs as the old ram?
About a week ago, our cable internet connection went out. Before I had a chance to reboot the modem & router, my 11 year old decided to completely reset the router to factory settings! Ugh! This caused several issues: my home network is now gone, only a unsecured factory network is available. When I try to plug my laptop into the router via ethernet cord (in order to login to router and setup secure network) my computer will not recognize the router and won't connect to internet. I tried troubleshooting with my cable provider and they say it's in my computer (IP address will not reset) and he recommended I replace my network card. However, today when I brought my laptop to work, it will instantly recognize the wifi at work. So is it really my network card that is causing issues? Please help, I'm desperate and not tech too tech savvy!
Linksys wireless router
Charter cable modem
Hp pavillion dv6 laptop with Windows Vista OS
Did you figure this out?
Hi can any one help I cant hear any sound on my laptop its all turned up but when I conect it to my tv the volumes fine but soon as I disconnet from the tv the sound ont go.
Did you fix this?
Hi, hope I've put enough specs in profile for you to help. I have a Compaq Presario 6735s I bought around 2008. CPU quite slow but graphics card not bad so made decision to upgrade. Looked up the laptop manual here to find compatible CPUs for motherboard, socket type etc. Went through 3 different (*****ic) buys before I found one that actually fitted.
Now with everything reassembled, screen will flash up once upon powering on, then nothing. All usual lights come on, even my wireless connects, makes usual start up noises, fan, dvd drive etc ....
Proceeded to take everything apart again, re-connected everything I tampered with. Even RAM, which I didn't have to remove before.
Still same reaction starting up.
Really frustrated with myself as thought this would be the right one. Could honestly cry, haha.
I read the tutorial on here called 'No POST' to no avail either. I really hope it can come back from this.
One last thing I can think of (before pulling new CPU out) is upgrading BIOS to support new CPU but with no screen I am stuck.
Can someone please give me a little direction?
Did you re-install the old CPU to see if the laptop booted normally again? Upgrading CPU's on laptop motherboards can be a very difficult thing to do. What is supposed to be compatible in reality is not
Hello to all I m going to install Win XP properly port The ps/2 of doesn't work the motherboard on my computer I had win but had some problem with installing the HP printer on it and so I decide to install XP because that printer seems to be installed properly The ps/2 port of the motherboard doesn't work properly on XP Now When I put the XP CD on the CD driver it says press a ker to boot from CD and I press the Enter key now the keyboard works after that within installation time when that I should press Enter to install XP this time the keyboard doesn t work My guess is that the ps port of the case has problem it s old and somewhat has been broad Now what is the solution in your point of The ps/2 port of the motherboard doesn't work properly view please My system manufacturer is quot ECS quot and the system model is quot pl-A quot PS there are two black amp white screens which mobo shows First screen shows the amount of RAM the model of CPU the IDEs and info like these which is common for first screen But the here when I want to enter to BIOS by pressing Del key it seems that keyboard doesn t work so it doesn t go to bios The second black amp white screen shows fewer info and it says quot Press shift-F to configure and when I press these two I can to enter to an environment that seems to not be the BIOS the keyboard here WORKS It has very few options And apparently doesn t have options of manipulating the keyboard settings nbsp
Could someone look over what I have and see if there is anything wrong with the list. oo and I have a SSD hard drive already and can someone recommend a CD drive and ram?
thanks in advance
Qty.Product DescriptionSavingsTotal Price
ASUS GeForce GTX 770 GTX770-DC2OC-2GD5 Video Card
Return Policy: VGA Replacement Only Return Policy
NVIDIA Gift - Watch Dogs
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy
Intel Core i7-4770 3.4GHz LGA 1150 Desktop Processor
Return Policy: CPU Replacement Only Return Policy
CORSAIR CSM Series CS750M 750W Power Supply
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy
ASUS SABERTOOTH Z97 MARK1 ATX Intel Motherboard
Return Policy: Limited Replacement Only Return Policy
NZXT Phantom 410 Series CA-PH410-B1 Black Computer Case With Side Panel Window
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy
Possibly, no one has commented because 1. people want to hear what you are aiming for - a gaming PC? CAD/CAM? Web-surfing? etc., and 2. you sure piled on a list of pricey items without any argument for why you need such pricey items when you can do nearly as well by sliding down the price range a lot, and 3. you have not said what size the SSD is - it might not be large enough to comfortably support operating system plus a few multi-player games.
A first-time build does not have to be the ultimate Win experience. Largely, builders work for a trade-off between cost and function. For your first build, you may want to build something that is straightforward, not too expensive, and can be upgraded in the future.
If money is no object, just get the most expensive of everything and enjoy. Just make sure everything is compatible.
I am not trying to be rude. Just kinda surprised by the price tags, and the lack of responses thus far.
Can someone take a look and tell me if this build is OK.
Intel Celeron G1620
MSI H61M-P20 (G3)
AMERA CASE PINK GIRLS MICRO ATX
Could you suggest also some memory and a video card although I already have a GeForce 8600GS, will that card be enough?
Can someone take a look and tell me if this build is OK.
Intel Celeron G1620
MSI H61M-P20 (G3)
AMERA CASE PINK GIRLS MICRO ATX
Could you suggest also some memory and a video card although I already have a GeForce 8600GS, will that card be enough?
ThanksClick to expand...
Minecraft does not need much but it does need a decent CPU (At least a mediocre one) to do a decent FPS on most settings. In my experience changing the settings does not help as much until you get really low on the game (mostly its draw distance that helps) so I would suggest a slightly higher cpu and a low GPU like an R7 250 or and HD 7750.
Try something like this, Im keeping it cheap but you will appreciate minecraft more with a slightly better processor in the end.
Pentium Dual Core 3.0ghz
Corsair 4gb (2x2gb kit) 1600
PowerColor R7 250
XFX 450Watt 80+ Bronze
You can go lower on the GPU if you wish and the PSU selection on that site did not leave me much room but you can go lower. Otherwise the rest is a decent value budget minecraft build which could get a good playable game experience for anyone needing an inexpensive machine.
So currently I have a modem in the living room Cisco EPC and then it goes all the way to my room to a Cisco WRTG V router Yesterday out of the blue it stopped working This is because I previously had routers in the network Asus and Cisco anyways I decided to disconnect my asus and use only the cisco but the router just won t work I reseted it to it s fabric settings But when I log into it it says the router s IP adress is And hands out IP adresses to my pc such as I have no idea what to do Microsoft Windows Version Copyright c Microsoft Corporation All rights reserved C Users MiKi gt ipconfig all Windows IP Configuration Host Name MiKi-PC Primary Dns Suffix Node Type Hybrid IP Routing Enabled No WINS Proxy Enabled No DNS Suffix Search Router work won't properly List sbb rs Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection Connection-specific DNS Suffix sbb rs Description Intel R V Gigabit Network Connectio n Physical Address - B- - Router won't work properly -B - E DHCP Enabled Yes Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Link-local Router won't work properly IPv Address fe d d ca Preferred IPv Address Preferred Subnet Mask Lease Obtained Wednesday June AM Lease Expires Wednesday June AM Default Gateway DHCP Server DHCPv IAID DHCPv Client DUID - - - - -B -D -EB- - B- - -B - E DNS Servers NetBIOS over Tcpip Enabled Tunnel adapter isatap sbb rs Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix sbb rs Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes IPv Address d abd e a Pref erred Link-local IPv Address fe e a Preferred Default Gateway NetBIOS over Tcpip Disabled Tunnel adapter TO Adapter Connection-specific DNS Suffix sbb rs Description Microsoft to Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes IPv Address ebd bbaa ebd bbaa Preferred Default Gateway c c DNS Servers NetBIOS over Tcpip Disabled C Users MiKi gt This is my ipconfig with the modem and this is with my router Microsoft Windows Version Copyright c Microsoft Corporation All rights reserved C Users MiKi gt ipconfig all Windows IP Configuration Host Name MiKi-PC Primary Dns Suffix Node Type Hybrid IP Routing Enabled No WINS Proxy Enabled No Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Intel R V Gigabit Network Connectio n Physical Address - B- - -B - E DHCP Enabled Yes Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Link-local IPv Address fe d d ca Preferred IPv Address Preferred Subnet Mask Lease Obtained Wednesday June AM Lease Expires Thursday June AM Default Gateway DHCP Server DHCPv IAID DHCPv Client DUID - - - - -B -D -EB- - B- - -B - E DNS Servers NetBIOS over Tcpip Enabled Tunnel adapter Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter isatap BE - - BA - E- B A F Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes C Users MiKi gt nbsp
Have you tried pressing the reset button on the router? (long press)
I have seen this 'reset button' on several router brands/models like tp-link (tl-wr941n, tl-wr740n old version, tl-wr740n newer version), buffalo draft-N routers, cdrking routers (made in china router brand sold in the Philippines).
if the reset process I described is the same as what you typed in your first post, try to manually change the router ip address.
my wimax modem ip address = 192.168.1.1
so for the tp-link wr-740 router, I use ip address - 192.168.0.1
login to your router and change it. if there's any save button, click it. my router prompts me to reboot the router. after a few seconds, the preferred ip address I have chosen is good for use.
(I have hidden my MAC address)
Hi guys I m hoping I could get some advice on a new build I m doing soon It will primarily £1200 Build for MMO Gaming focus on MMOs and Wildstar and WoW absolutely must work on it although it should beast through them Would be nice if other stuff did too though please point out any incompatibilities or things you would do differently Thanks in advance Specs here Case PCS MAELSTROM T BLACK GAMING CASE Processor CPU Intel MMO Gaming Build for £1200 Core i Quad Core Processor i - k MMO Gaming Build for £1200 GHz MB Cache Motherboard Gigabyte Z X Gaming ATX LG USB SATA GBs XFIRE SLI Memory RAM GB KINGSTON HYPER-X BEAST DUAL-DDR MHz X M P x GB Graphics Card GB NVIDIA GEFORCE GTX - DVI HDMI DP - D Vision Ready st Hard Disk GB KINGSTON V SSD SATA Gb MB R MB W nd Hard Disk TB WD CAVIAR BLACK WD FZEX SATA Gb s MB CACHE rpm st DVD BLU-RAY Drive x DUAL LAYER DVD WRITER R RW RAM Memory Card Reader INTERNAL IN CARD READER XD MS CF SD etc x USB PORT Power Supply CORSAIR W RM SERIES MODULAR PLUS GOLD ULTRA QUIET Processor Cooling CoolerMaster Seidon M High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler Sound Card ONBOARD CHANNEL HIGH DEF AUDIO AS STANDARD Wireless Wired Networking WIRELESS N Mbps PCI CARD USB Options MIN x USB amp x USB PORTS BACK PANEL MIN FRONT PORTS Operating System Genuine Windows Bit - inc DVD amp Licence nbsp
A better ssd, use an air cooler like Noctua D14 or 15, phanteks,stronger psu for future sli or crossfire 750 or 850,something like a 450mbp dual band for wireless or something in the ac wireless class, 8gigs would serve you well but 16 is nice to have. Last but not least I7 for just gaming is really just paying far to much for just gaming. One of the newer I5s would serve just aswell and save you a dollar. While the build would run okay, Its price to performance is grossly off. You are building a overclocker that cant overclock.
http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Freaksamcker/saved/BTwkcf As far as ram wise, the fastest ram within your budget.( 8gigs) Make sure the air cooler will fit in your case.
Ok I m not the best and building computers and am very new at it My fresh build will boot but display absolutely nothing on the it like except everything Fresh display all powers at should build, no on monitor monitor by nothing I mean it won t even go to bios or turn the power light from standby to on This build will boot up all fans will run with no problems including cpu and video card fans and everything will shut Fresh build, everything powers like it should except no display at all on monitor off by holding down the power button properly Also I have not gotten any light or beep codes Here is what I have asus m a motherboard amd fx -core processor black edition asus gtx ti direct cu video card ddr gb Fresh build, everything powers like it should except no display at all on monitor x gb MHz dual corsair vengeance ram watt xion xio power supply sata tb barracuda hard drive dvd cd - writable drive cm storm scout case I have tried trouble shooting programs for the motherboard and video card with no results I have tried resetting the rtc ram I have double checked the power plugs are plugged in properly and making a proper circuit I have taken everything out except the motherboard cpu cpu fan and power supply and still gotten no beeps I have tried changing how the stupid speaker wire connects connecting incorrectly according to the manual and still no freaking beeps I have tried using hdmi and vga cords connected to my tv that supports pc s and a monitor nothing worked cord wise but my old pc worked like a dream when connected to them when talking to tech support for the motherboard they helped me check that it wasn t a grounding issue I have talked to all my pc buddies called tech support and no one can tell me anything i haven t tried or that has worked I have no idea what is wrong I need help I have spent the last two day all day working on this with no clue what is happening nbsp
do you have the monitor cable plugged into the GPU or MOBO?
Hey, I am wanting to make my first gaming computer and despite all my research and back checking, I still feel like something may be wrong, not to mention if possible I would like to save a bit more money since I am just above my budget of about $500. Below is a link to my build.
I am hoping to play mainly games like WoW, Arche Age, and mmos like that. Also I may occasionally play something more demanding like Skyrim or something. Any tips, and if possible money saves, let me know.
Probably better to get rid of the GPU and just go with an AMD APU. Like A10-5800K
I think I've checked correctly if the power will be enough and I have plenty of space to fit everything.
Were you wanting all those items? Seemed to be some redundancies and over-kill. Regardless though, 10K has me drooling.
I'm not sure if this the right forum since it's been upgraded. I am thinking of doing a new build of the AMD FM2+ and here is what I think that I want and I'm looking for any suggestions about this build in it's entirety. This is what I've picked at part pickers so far: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/oldguy55/saved/44ya , I'm not really a gamer, but I do a lot of video editing, converting, bluray/dvd recording and music cds. also keep in mind that I will probably be adding more hard drives to this build as my movie library is increasing.
Ok, so since you do a lot of video editing, I would make numerous changes:
1) I would go for an Intel platform rather than an AMD platform since Intel CPUs are dominant when it comes to video editing.
2) If you arent going to overclock the CPU much, I would tone down the cooler to something like a Hyper 212 Evo.
3) I would tone down the RAM to about 1600MHz since 2133MHz doesnt make much of a difference when video editing (or even gaming).
4) I would replace the Digital Black2 HDD/SSD combo with a pure SSD.
5) I would replace the AMD GPU with something more hefty and nVidia based. I say this because nVidia drivers are usually more consistent and nVidia GPUs are generally better for video editing. BUT, if you are working with programs such as Adobe CC, then I would stick with an AMD GPU (more powerful than a 250X) since Adobe products make use of OpenGL for the most part and AMD is dominant at that.
6) Case is your choice. I personally recommend Corsair cases.
7) The PSU can be toned down to a 750W (Corsair HX 750) possibly, but I wouldnt go any lower since you are hoping to add more HDDs.
8) I would find a Bluray reader and writer all in one rather than having 2.
9) There is really no advantage to having Windows 7 Ultimate over Professional or even Home Premium. Ultimate just really allows you to install language packs (there are some other features that arent really important).
10) You dont need a Wifi adapter as long as the motherboard supports Wifi, but it matters on the board. We can determine that once we figure out the specifics.
11) Keyboard looks fine. I personally recommend the Logitech Wireless Solar Keyboard K750 ($60) since you never have to replace the batteries and the keys are more tactile. But it is your choice.
12) That mouse is made for laptops, just so you are aware .
Sorry for the long rant, but I want to get you the best rig possible . I just need you to answer some questions first though, what programs do you use? How hardcore of a video editor are you (professional?)? Are the projects you work with in very high resolutions such as 4K? What is your price range for this machine? <--- this will help determine which CPU and GPU you can purchase (along with other parts).
I hope this helps.
Hi all Up until very recently I have been using Scan XS for custom build workstations for our D designers in our London studio for Build Custom Rendering Unfortunately their customer service has fallen off a cliff in the last few months so I am looking at alternative options One of the biggest advantages with Scan was their prices relative to more established competitors and I m hoping Custom Build for Rendering to find a similarly competitive option I have used Mesh in the past but unfortunately they don t include Quadro graphics Custom Build for Rendering cards in any of their systems this is an essential as we work with Solidworks amp AutoCAD as much as we do ds Max I have built my own in the past but as this is a work machine we d prefer to be backed up by a professional warranty What I am considering at the moment is the HP Z but these use Xeon E - CPUs which according to Intel aren t recommended for rendering I m still happy to consider off-the-shelf systems but ideally I d like to get something along the lines of Windows Pro bit i k or newer nVidia Quadro K or better gb RAM Minimum quot IPS Monitor eg Dell U yr Warranty Under k Any suggestions would be appreciated Thanks in advance nbsp
The Xeon E5-1650 that is in the HP Z420 is an aging processor. I would recommend something newer. I would take a look at the HP workstation site before making a decision through a 3rd party seller like ebuyer.com.
I would recommend looking at newer CPUs such as the ones found >>here<<.
One option is the HP Z420, but it gets quite pricey (~4000 USD not including a monitor (if I am not mistaken)). It has a beefy Xeon E5-1650 V2 inside along with a bunch of other goodies like a Quadro K4000 and a 512GB SSD.
It doesn't seem to me like many of the HP workstations have GPUs, so this is what I recommend: buy a nice HP workstation with a beefy new Xeon E5 6 core CPU (this will kick some mean *** in SolidWorks, AutoCad, and 3DS Max, trust me!) and buy a Quadro or FirePro GPU yourself. Make sure you check the specifications of the PSU first though to confirm that you can run a Quadro GPU on top of the other components. Also, you can easily get a SSD later if you dont want to pay extra for it in the HP workstation. That will run you like $300-500.
If the HP workstations dont work out (the pricing just doesnt workout in the end with the monitors and GPUs and such), then I would get off the shelf parts, but the problem with those is that it is hard to find components with extended warranties. If they do have long warranties, they will probably be expensive.
I hope this helps.
I've bought a Sound Blaster Recon 3D a year ago.
It works awsome ! But this morning it was off the light and cannot work while plug in any computers.
I am very bored and nervous, I think it was broken down and cannot work anymore.
Am I right ?
Please say NO and help me
Thank you very much.
Hello My sound chip on my board was blew for no reason bad thing only being a month old bored and I am not waiting days to rma it and for me to get it back anyway I managed to pick up a old sound card not sure on the model Motherboard? Work. Not Maybe Did Sound Card that worked fine for three days then stopped outputing audio so I bought a sound card intex cmi that did not have the bit wndows dirvers and everytime I turned the computer off the machine would not detect the card I then I have to press the reset button or turn the system a few times to get the card to be recognized again and I could not also find the drivers for the OS Sound Card Did Not Work. Maybe Motherboard? I checked at the back of the cards box and it says bit pci bus master What does the mean could that be that the card was not compatible for the stystem or could it be the motherboard I tried a nvidia video card in the Sound Card Did Not Work. Maybe Motherboard? PCI-E slot and the card works fine with no faults The sound card was using the PCI slot and I tried every PCI slot My Motherboard asrock fm a x extreme Thanks nbsp
I tested in a very old card from 2001 or 2004 something like that and it appears there's power going through the card so that's the plus.
Maybe it's because I'm using old crap and the sound card model is old?
All of a sudden my build-in webcam is no longer recognised. I have upgraded my OS from windows 7, to windows 8, to windows 8.1, but that was a while ago and my webcam has worked in the mean time.
Has anyone had similar problems or does someone have a (possible) solution? All ideas are welcome, since I need my webcam for videoconferences.
It could be compatibility problem,,, try to install webcam for windows 8.1
My laptop doesn't work with wifi when I first open it. It will show at the bottom of the screen that it is fully connected and has full bars, but when I open the internet the pages will not open. I must restart the computer and then it will work. How can I fix this?
When the WiFi is active, the laptop NIC should be disabled - - easy - - just unplug the the cable to the router.
My old HP computer fried, but so far the power supply (Corsair 650W) and my memory 8GB and optical DVD burner/drive are pretty much the only thing that survived, lol. So I need a new processor, mobo, graphics card, mid case, and cooler. I have $400.00 as of right now to spend, but will have maybe more from time to time, this will take me a-while depending on the prices of the parts needed to complete my gaming pc. The games that I usually play are BF4, Titanfall, Arma III, Company of Heroes II, and Total War Rome II. For those asking what type of (Mobo: FOXCONN ALOE 1.01), (Video Card: ATI Radeon HD 5850 1GB), and (CPU: 2.80 gigahertz AMD Phenom II X4 925) I had. Thanks for taking the time to read my post and cry of help .
What resolution do you play at? I think you'll need more than 400$ if you want to play those games with a "gaming" pc.
I hope this is the right section to ask this question in. I'm a big newbie.
I'm having an issue that I have no clue how to solve. There is a specific webpage that I try to view at home with my laptop, and it never loads on Chrome and Firefox, but does on Explorer. But when I take the same laptop to work or school, it does load that website on all browsers. I also have a desktop that stays home, and has the same problem. Its so strange. I don't know if it's a network thing, or an facebook app thing.
I've tried re-installing Chrome, deleting all cookies and caches, disabling all extensions or plugins, and updating Flash and Java. Any ideas?
Mod Note: Facebook game link removed, you are too new to be trusted fully. Problem m ay be solvable without the exact game anyway.
I have recently built a new PC and am having some issues, I am getting power to all of my components but no power to any of my peripherals (keyboard, mouse & monitor) my monitor is in power saving mode.
I have done the following steps to try and resolve the problem:
- Upgrade from a 500w to 750w PSU
- Replace CPU as there was a slightly bent pin.
- Replace motherboard.
- Reset the CMOS.
- Clean the RAM sticks and put back in
- Boot with 1 RAM stick.
- Tried using DVI, VGA & HDMI cables to connect to monitor.
Also, please note my motherboard does not have a VGA or DVI port so I am unable to test if it is the graphics card.
None of these steps worked, does anyone have any idea what may be causing this issue?
Your help would be much appreciated.
Need more info on what hardware you are using. Make and Model of: Motherboard, CPU, RAM, Video Card, PSU, etc.
It's easier to troubleshoot with this info.
Hello! I live in a college apartment (so no access to router). When I hook up my ethernet cable to my computer, all of my messengers work and are connected but I cannot use internet browsers. I recently reformatted my computer and was using a wireless adaptor, but here the internet is so slow that there's really no point and for a decent connection you need to be plugged into the wall. The wall connection worked fine until I reformatted.
This happened before when I moved to my first college and had to use the ethernet cable. I've done everything from messing around with internet explorer proxy settings and whatnot, but what did work was something I found in a thread. It instructed me to go somewhere and delete a file that was blocking the internet part, I guess? I deleted this setting/file and the ethernet connection worked just fine afterwards. I can't find this thread (probably not on this website) anymore. Does anyone here know possibly what the file was?
Check for optional Windows Updates, specifically a network driver. The most common name is Realtek.
And/or try installing this driver. - Software: Drivers & Utilities
If still no go, which computer do you have?
I am using windows 7 and my webcam is not working,whenever I tried to use to it says "webcam not detected ". even it is absent in device manager and I hope someone will help me to solve the problem.
What is the exact brand and model # of your laptop?
Just got the new mouse home, but to enable aim precision and other programmable buttons and need to get the drivers. When I try to download them it says plug in the device, which is already plugged in and I have also tried in different usb ports and safe mode. Anyone with this mouse got it to work?
I have a headset set with a mic. It has 3.5mm plugs for the mic and the speakers. Just recently they stopped working together. What I mean is if I have either one of them plugged in, that one works. If I have both plugged in, the sound manager appears as if neither of them are plugged in. I've tried other headphones with the jacks and get the same result. I've tried reinstalling the driver, doing a system restore and using CCleaner to clean my registry. I've also messed around with just about every setting in the audio manager. Anyone have any ideas? It's odd that they work independently, which leads me to believe that the insertion detection is working just fine.
I have a Toshiba Satellite R845-S95 with Windows 7.
Turn off the insertion detection on realtek. Top-right corner somewhere, from memory.
I want to build the new gaming computer with average specification to play the games like GTA, Battelfield, Warcraft etc. my buget is around 1000$.. all suggetions are welcomed.....
Do you have a machine or configuration, that you are currently looking at?
I've been putting together this build as my first gaming PC and I'm wondering will there been any compatibility issues between any of these parts?
My budget is roughly: £500 / $800 / ?600
Any advice is appreciated
That's a pretty sketchy power supply, I wouldn't use it.
That is OK, but I think it would be easier for you if you just got a wifi enabled motherboard.
Hey guys I have couple of bucks I need to spend on my PC right now
I am looking for a mid range video ed/ gaming setup.
here is my specs currently.
Any help is appreciated
What's your budget? You're gonna need a whole new rig, including OS.
Well, I just put my pc together and I turned it on, it starts out fine but then to power supply fan turns off and the power supply and the system shuts off after about 3 seconds
Can you give a little more detail, about what you are building and how you went about putting it together. A description of all your parts and a list of all the power connections would be a good start.
Hey guys Im building my first gaming pc and I would appreciate if you could tell me if these pieces can hold togheter and if im missing some like I PC build gaming First said its my first build so I dont know if that piece is too powerfull or that other one is too weak etc I plan to First gaming PC build play games like Skyrim Battlefield MMOs etc ASUS Z -A LGA Intel Z HDMI SATA Gb s USB ATX Intel Motherboard ASUS GTX -DC OC- GD GeForce GTX GB -bit GDDR PCI Express HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX M W ATX V v EPS V v PLUS BRONZE Certified Semi Modular High Performance Power Supply New th Gen CPU Certified Haswell Ready Intel Core First gaming PC build i - K Ivy Bridge GHz GHz Turbo LGA W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics BX I K Kingston HyperX GB x GB -Pin DDR SDRAM DDR PC Desktop Memory Model KHX C D K GX Mushkin Enhanced Chronos Deluxe MKNSSDCR GB-DX quot GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive SSD Cooler Master Hyper EVO - CPU Cooler with mm PWM Fan Western Digital WD Blue WD AAKX GB RPM MB Cache SATA Gb s quot Internal Hard Drive Bare Drive - OEM Note At first I had plan to use a W power supply but I dont know if it would be good enough or not so please give me your opinion about it Thanks for helping a noob nbsp
Depending on the price of that TX650 I'd recommend the Rosewill Capstone 550/m or Seasonic g series 550.
Also it'd be nice to find a kit of 1866 RAM, which you can probably find at a similar price if you're lucky and there's some sales.
Also depending on the price you can probably get a Samsung EVO 250gb for a little cheaper.
I dont know if anyone is still active on this thread but I would like to know what would be a good build to go with my cpu i7 4770
im on a 1500 dollar budget and plan on doing alot of video editing using visual effects
Hi guys I ve spent today building a pc for myself However on pressing the on button there s no reaction at all My machine specs are M B - Gigabyte GA- A-UD Processor - AMD RAM - Corsair Gb DDR Case - Zalman Z Graphics card - Gigabyte HD PSU - Corsair CX M W Wi-fi card also installed but can t remember the name and seem to have temporarily lost the box in a pile of packaging So far I ve checked the CPU and motherboard power sockets the wall plug sockets and the power cord to my PSU I ve also checked the connections between my case and the motherboard and these all appear to be correct on power build PC doesn't As part of this final point I switched the power on LED with the power button they both originate from the same location so thought they may be mixed up Anyhows I got a solid LED which suggests to me that a there s power running through the switch circuit and b the pc isn t booting when told to as a PC build doesn't power on solid LED would indicate PC build doesn't power on circuit completion which would be the equivalent of holding in the on button If anybody could shed any light on where to go next I d be eternally grateful currently searching the house for a paperclip to test the PSU nbsp
Does the CPU and case fans move at all, when pressing the power button?
Hi - I am posting pics of the min-itx computer I made within a clear very small plexi-glas case I was motivated to do this after reading abt tiny, clear mini-itx plexi-glas of build Pics the mini-itx form factor including reading that it basically can do what a full ATX format MB could do with some limits on RAM slots and vid cards and reading abt the low-power w tdp intel chips with native video that were Pics of mini-itx tiny, clear plexi-glas build a really cool fit between low power low heat atom processors and the usual intel or amd desktop CPUs the low power makes it easier to have adequate cooling it had to have a max power demand level that would allow a laptop-type power supply with heat sink in the power cable and not in the computer case --the micro-psu atx power supplies plus appropriate laptop-type power cord are a great set-up to allow this I am fascinated by the atoms but still not knowledgeable enough or excited enough to figure out my own build based on an atom I told my year old son that we would make a computer together he likes looking at lego dots com and other kid stuff It would be small since it was just for a boy it would be cool since we like things to be cool for items that might be visually cool to shop for we shopped the case was found on ebay I though some aggressive cool heat sinks on ram would fit per my calculations but I was wrong I ordered g-skill ram with cool heat sinks but had to remove the heat sinks to fit the case temps are fine that was abt it for what would look cool the rest - not much - hard drive and cpu cooler - just had to fit video was not a big concern these intel chips have onboard and these MBs know it and we are not intense gamers the future - maybe not so much I hope he is not living in my basement in years playing rpg specs in next post nbsp
intel g630t. a great price point with the performance we need for everything, at low power - 35w - our needs do not include rpg etc but includes web-browsing, transfer of pics from digital camera to hard drive, some MS Office stuff. ----stock cooler is very low profile, and fits.
4 gb gskill ram.
win7 home 64bit.
Kingston 120 gb hd --repurposed from some other comp I had done.
repurposed 40mm fan as case fan.
usb 150mb/sec transponder -- from Frys for $10.
Oh- big deal - MB is Intel mini-itx dh61dl. you can build a typical atx computer with this, but with limits - the only card slots are 1 (one) mini pci-e and pci-express.
Hi guys I m looking to build myself a new PC suitable I have particular games I d like to run with PC Build Advice decent performance at reasonably high settings - at the moment that s FSX Rome TW and Football Manager yeah that one s not resource heavy but it s on my list - but would like it to be future-proof I already PC Build Advice have a monitor and mouse but everything else needs buying Considering that with the budget I have I ve come up with the following set-up Case - Bitfenix Merc Alpha Gaming Case CPU - AMD FX -core FX GHz Mb cache RAM - Corsair Gb DDR MHz PSU - W Coolermaster B Motherboard - ASUS M A Motherboard Graphics - Gb AMD MSI HD OC PCI-E HDD - Western Digital TB DVD-RW - Liteon x player Cooling - Standard AMD processor cooling fan case has a fan at the rear planning on buying four more fans and adding two to the front one to the top and one to the bottom of the case Speakers - Logitech ZS O S - Windows -bit If anyone can take a quick scan through and let me know if I ve missed something glaringly obvious that would be great Or if there is anything I can PC Build Advice substitute that would give better performance for a similar price that would be great I think everything is compatible I ll double and triple-check this before buying so I m not looking for any in-depth analysis but any guidance would be great Thanks nbsp
Good Selection, but might I make a few alterations for you to consider because you have a £800. We maybe able to squeeze a bit more out of this build, ill go off amazon.uk for the pricing:
Gigabyte Z87-HD3 79.99
i5 4670k 174.50
Corsair 750watt Bronze 68.98
Seagate Barracuda 7200RPM 1tb 49.99
Cooler Master Hyper212 Evo CPU Cooler 23.99
NZXT Phantom 410 mid tower 84.95
Corsair Vengeance 8gb 2x4gb 1600 65.76
Liton DvD Drive 13.15
R9 280X Gigabyte 230.47
Logitech Z323 Speakers 32.99 (Could not find the speakers you listed so went for what I thought might be close.
Thats just a little advice to maxise your build to the budget, this will provide much more power overall and future proof you for quite some time. Hope this help!
Hi this is my first time attempting to build my own gaming PC from scratch with a budget hopefully falling within a total of USD - After researching a few of the parts for the past few days I ve Gaming PC build please advise come up with a rough idea of what I want in the PC as listed below PCPartPicker part list http pcpartpicker com p bzk Price breakdown by merchant http pcpartpicker com p bzk by merchant Benchmarks http pcpartpicker com p Gaming PC build please advise bzk benchmarks CPU Intel Core i - K GHz Quad-Core Processor Newegg CPU Cooler Cooler Master Hyper EVO CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler Newegg Motherboard ASRock Z Extreme ATX LGA Motherboard Newegg Memory Corsair Vengeance Pro GB x GB DDR - Memory Newegg Storage Samsung EVO GB quot Solid State Disk Newegg Storage Western Digital Caviar Black TB quot RPM Internal Hard Drive Newegg Video Card Asus Radeon R X GB Video Card Newegg Wireless Network Adapter Rosewill RNX-N UBE b g n USB Wi-Fi Adapter Newegg Case Corsair R ATX Mid Tower Case Newegg Power Supply Corsair Professional W Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply Newegg Optical Drive Asus DRW- B ST BLK B AS DVD CD Writer Newegg Operating System Microsoft Windows Home Premium SP OEM -bit Newegg Total Prices include shipping taxes and discounts when available COMMENTS ON PART LISTNG CPU I chose the K as I am open to overclocking However still deciding if I should just go with the new Haswell since I ve read that overclocking doesn t really show results for a gaming rig not sure if I m confident enough of overclocking Motherboard Many builds I ve seen that use the K utilize this motherboard so I guess it goes pretty well with the Ivy Bridge Storage SSD for installing of the Windows OS and the HDD for installation of games and the like Video Card My nd choice as of the moment Open to possible SLI Crossfire configurations but unsure of which graphic cards are worth dual-pairing right now VERY open to suggestions and opinions on this Main Gaming PC build please advise choice is the new SAPPHIRE R X GB TOXIC Edition but currently not available in my country Hopefully it ll be released over the course of this month Case Read good reviews about this case Ideally a Mid Tower other considerations are -NZXT Phantom Black ATX Mid Tower Case Newegg -Cooler Master Storm Enforcer ATX Mid Tower Case Newegg Power Supply Enough for possible overclocking Any feedback and suggestions greatly appreciated Like I ve said I m new to building a gaming rig so I am willing to put careful thought into any opinions put forward nbsp
Hi, this is my first time attempting to build my own gaming PC from scratch with a budget hopefully falling within a total of USD$1200-$1500. After researching a few of the parts for the past few days, I've come up with a rough idea of what I want in the PC as listed below.
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/22bzk
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/22bzk/by_merchant/
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($35.98 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($92.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 280X 3GB Video Card ($316.13 @ Newegg)
Wireless Network Adapter: Rosewill RNX-N180UBE 802.11b/g/n USB 2.0 Wi-Fi Adapter ($17.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 400R ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair Professional 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($24.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1283.00 (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
COMMENTS ON PART LISTNG
I chose the 3570K as I am open to overclocking. However, still deciding if I should just go with the new Haswell 4670 since I've read that overclocking doesn't really show results for a gaming rig + not sure if I'm confident enough of overclocking.
Many builds I've seen that use the 3570K utilize this motherboard so I guess it goes pretty well with the Ivy Bridge.
SSD for installing of the Windows 7 OS and the HDD for installation of games and the like.
My 2nd choice as of the moment. Open to possible SLI/Crossfire configurations but unsure of which graphic cards are worth dual-pairing right now. VERY open to suggestions and opinions on this. Main choice is the new SAPPHIRE R9 280X 3GB TOXIC Edition but currently not available in my country. Hopefully it'll be released over the course of this month.
Read good reviews about this case. Ideally a Mid Tower, other considerations are :
-NZXT Phantom 410 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($105.98 @ Newegg)
-Cooler Master Storm Enforcer ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Enough for possible overclocking?
Any feedback and suggestions greatly appreciated. Like I've said I'm new to building a gaming rig so I am willing to put careful thought into any opinions put forward.
As this is my first custom build PC I would like to confirm that these components are from the cheapest sources and are all compatible with each other I am a PC building noob and I am following a guide http www pcmech com byopc step- -materials-required Is this guide up to date and usable I play source games and I want to be able to record sometimes and get at least fps on most games the graphics quality must be around med-high My components please tell me if I can get it cheaper somewhere else and if they aren t compatible what do I need instead I am building a gaming rig as cheaply as possible without getting fps on every game like I do on my GHz laptop with gb of ram build first PC My custom Case http www amazon co uk Aerocool-Strike-X-Toolless-Tower-Gaming dp B NA A ref sr s computers amp ie UTF amp qid amp sr - amp keywords pc cases Price OS http www ebay co uk itm Microsoft-Windows- -Home-Premium-Oem- -Bit-SP -Operating-System- -Bit- trksid p m amp trkparms algo SIC amp its I amp itu UCI BIA BUA BFICS BUFI My first custom build PC amp otn amp pmod amp ps Price Motherboard http www amazon co uk P Z -V-Motherboard-CrossFireX-Intelligent-Processors dp B KZQE Q ref sr s computers amp ie UTF amp qid amp sr - amp keywords atx motherboard Price CPU http www amazon co uk Intel-Graphics-BX I -Generation-Technology dp My first custom build PC B CV E WK ref sr ie UTF amp qid amp sr - amp keywords Intel Core i - Price RAM http www amazon co uk Corsair-CML rmance dp B E M TU ref cm cr pr product top Price PSU http www ebuyer com -alpine-ii- w-b-white-psu-with- mm-blue-fan-alpine-ii- w-blue Price Keyboard My first custom build PC and Mouse I have a decent mouse Razer DeathAdder so I just need a cheap keyboard http www amazon co uk Octigen-JK- amp sr - amp keywords keyboard productDetails Price Graphics Card http www dabs com products gigabyte-geforce-gtx- -ti- mhz- gb-pci-express- - -hdmi- BP html q Nvidia GeForce GTX Ti amp src Price Thermal paste for CPU http www digitaldevicesonline co uk cooler-master-thermal-grease html Price Monitor I may not need a monitor I might be able to use an old one but if someone can find a small monitor VERY cheaply it would be greatly appreciated http www currys co uk gbuk comput s- -led-backlit-monitor- -pdt html Price Hard Drive http www amazon co uk Western-Digital- GB- RPM-Internal dp B A M ref sr s computers amp ie UTF amp qid amp sr - amp keywords gb hard drive Price DVD Drive http www amazon co uk LiteOn-IHAS - -AllWrite-Height-Internal dp B B SJZQW ref sr s computers amp ie UTF amp qid amp sr - amp keywords Internal DVD-RW Price CPU Cooler http www scan co uk products intel-reference-s -aluminum-copper-base-heat-sink-fan-oem Sound Card I m not too bothered about sound so I went for a cheap one but it needs to be able to play game sounds atleast to an OK standard http www ebuyer com -xenta- -channel-pci-soundcard-l- - c Price Not including monitor it totals around I need to get it cheaper and if I can I will get like a gb ram kit and wait till I have more cash and get the gb ram kit if I need to but I would mainly like to know if I can get my ideal cheaper else where and for things like the RAM I just want gb tell me if I can get a cheaper gb RAM kit for example I appreciate this is a lot of things to go through but I really would appreciate and I heard the TechSpot community is the best around and I m sure you will exceed my expectations Note I AM A COMPLETE NOOB I may have made a huge mistake so don t get angry and please spare me too much technical language nbsp
As this is my first custom build PC, I would like to confirm that these components are from the cheapest sources and are all compatible with each other.
I am a PC building noob and I am following a guide (http://www.pcmech.com/byopc/step-1-materials-required/) Is this guide up to date and usable?
I play source games and I want to be able to record sometimes and get at least 30 fps on most games, the graphics quality must be around med-high.
My components; please tell me if I can get it cheaper somewhere else, and if they aren't compatible what do I need instead? I am building a gaming rig as cheaply as possible without getting 4fps on every game like I do on my 1.8 GHz laptop with 3gb of ram...
Case: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Aerocool-Strike-X-Toolless-Tower-Gaming/dp/B00606NA0A/ref=sr_1_4?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1375030634&sr=1-4&keywords=pc cases
Motherboard: http://www.amazon.co.uk/P8Z77-V-Motherboard-CrossFireX-Intelligent-Processors/dp/B007KZQE7Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1375033864&sr=1-2&keywords=atx motherboard
CPU: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Intel-Graphics-BX80646I54570-Generation-Technology/dp/B00CV3E3WK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375034385&sr=8-1&keywords=Intel Core i5-4570
Keyboard and Mouse (I have a decent mouse (Razer DeathAdder 2013) so I just need a cheap keyboard) : http://www.amazon.co.uk/Octigen-JK-...99617&sr=8-9&keywords=keyboard#productDetails
Graphics Card: http://www.dabs.com/products/gigabyte-geforce-gtx-650-ti-1032mhz-1gb-pci-express-3-0-hdmi-8BP8.html?q=Nvidia GeForce GTX 650 Ti&src=16
Thermal paste for CPU: http://www.digitaldevicesonline.co.uk/cooler-master-thermal-grease.html
Monitor (I may not need a monitor I might be able to use an old one, but if someone can find a small monitor VERY cheaply it would be greatly appreciated!): http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/comput...050s-20-led-backlit-monitor-11925669-pdt.html
Hard Drive: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Western-Digital-250GB-7200RPM-Internal/dp/B00134A2M8/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1375101575&sr=1-1&keywords=250 gb hard drive
DVD Drive: http://www.amazon.co.uk/LiteOn-IHAS120-04-AllWrite-Height-Internal/dp/B00B4SJZQW/ref=sr_1_6?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1375101823&sr=1-6&keywords=Internal DVD-RW
CPU Cooler: http://www.scan.co.uk/products/intel-reference-s1156-aluminum-copper-base-heat-sink-fan-oem
Sound Card (I'm not too bothered about sound so I went for a cheap one but it needs to be able to play game sounds atleast to an OK standard) : http://www.ebuyer.com/48180-xenta-6-channel-pci-soundcard-l-8738-6c
Not including monitor it totals around £600, I need to get it cheaper and if I can I will get like a 3gb ram kit and wait till I have more cash and get the 8gb ram kit if I need to but I would mainly like to know if I can get my ideal cheaper else where and for things like the RAM I just want 8gb, tell me if I can get a cheaper 8gb RAM kit for example.
I appreciate this is a lot of things to go through but I really would appreciate and I heard the TechSpot community is the best around! and I'm sure you will exceed my expectations!
Note: I AM A COMPLETE NOOB, I may have made a huge mistake, so don't get angry, and please spare me too much technical language!
The n key had been not working properly and now it stopped all together. I took the key off and tried pressing the white piece of soft plastic but nothing shows up. Is it time to get a new keyboard or is there something else to try? It seems like such a waist to throw out a keyboard when 1/100+ keys stopped working.
Try it on another PC and see.
Hi son cheap my First gaming for build, guys have been reading a few of the help First build, cheap gaming for my son me find the best build threads and as my son wants a pc that will play bf at moderate settings First build, cheap gaming for my son for xmas I ve decided to have a go at building one My budget is pounds sterling This is what I ve priced up so far x - quot Primo a quot AMD A DDR Ready Barebones Socket FM This includes a case a watt power supply and an asrock fm m b x - Kingston GB SSDNow V Drive SATA Gb s x - Arctic Silver Thermal Compound x - AMD Athlon X K Black Edition GHz x - GeIL Black Dragon GB x GB DDR x - Arctic Silver Thermal Compound x - His HD mb graphics card All of the above have been sourced from overclockers co uk baring in my mind I ve never built a machine before I suppose what I want to know is will the components I ve picked compliment each other and could you guys point me in the right direction if I ve missed anything crucial out Or for that matter if you could put together a better build for the same sort of money I have been advised to go for the best graphics card I can afford so this is the reason the build looks so graphics heavy Anyway thanks in advance guys just from looking at some of the other threads on this site I can tell there s a lot of you who really know what you are doing nbsp
If you are not planning on overclocking the CPU, then you can drop off the Arctic Shield 5 Thermal Compound (which you have listed twice by the way). Thermal compound comes with most CPU's, and it works just fine as long as you are not overclocking too much.
You will need to up the RAM to 8GB (4GB is just meeting the minimum requirements on most newer games). Having 8GB of ram will give you that "Buffer" zone to be able to play all the games for at least a couple years.
You only put in a 120GB SSD drive. You will have that filled with the Operating System and maybe a couple games and not have enough room for anything else. I would suggest for now, dumping the SSD drive and getting at least a 500GB to 1TB 7200rpm hard drive.
Should also get a DVD/Bluray drive.
You will also have to factor in the cost of an Operating System.
Those are my few suggestions, I know other people will be adding in theirs too. Hope this helps you out some.
I have decided that I need a new PC and I have no idea what custom parts to choose; I want to build it myself, I want the best high end parts possible in an Intel build that can be overclocked when I need to. The price has to include at least 3 monitors and it needs to look EPIC like with LEDs, a case with a window etc. I have £3000-£3500 to spend on it. Please help me choose the parts, if someone could find them all in one place e.g Amazon so it saves me some time. The rig is for gaming, video editing and rendering sometimes at the same time.
Wait until Ivy Bridge-E comes out in early September, a 4930K with a couple of GTX 770/780's should be within your budget.
In the meantime have a look at what monitors to get, I.e. if you want 120Hz, IPS, size, resolution, etc.