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Fast ring build stuck at "downloading"

Q: Fast ring build stuck at "downloading"

hi guys,
im on build 14926 on fast ring on the SP3, I know there is a new build to download but my pc doesn't download it even though it says "downloading"
UPDATE: I fixed it somehow

http://forums.windowscentral.com/windows-10/441159-fast-ring-build-stuck-downloading.html
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Preferred Solution: Fast ring build stuck at "downloading"

I recommend downloading and running Reimage. It's a computer repair tool that has been proven to identify and fix many Windows problems with a high level of success.

I've used it in the past to identify and fix everything from blue screens (BSOD's), ActiveX errors, corrupt files and processes, dll/exe/sys errors, recover lost memory, Windows update problems, defragging, malware removal etc.

You can download it direct from this link http://downloadreimage.com/directdownload.php. (This link will automatically start a download of Reimage that you can save to your computer.)

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I just solved my own problem and thought others might benefit since I could not find the solution using internet search My Realtek HD Audio manager seemed to be creating an echo on my quot Line In quot HD Audio Realtek "line from effect) (if in" echo it Removing output sound not a is audio signal I had already set the environment and equalizer sound effects options to lt None gt but the echo persisted I found the problem seems that I was essentially duplicating the Removing "line in" echo from Realtek HD Audio output (if it is not a sound effect) Line In audio stream The first quot source quot I found was the HD Audio manager You can open the manager and view the Line In tab - mine had a non-zero playback volume the slider was NOT all the way to Removing "line in" echo from Realtek HD Audio output (if it is not a sound effect) the left for zero playback If you want Removing "line in" echo from Realtek HD Audio output (if it is not a sound effect) output from the HD Manager that makes sense I also found out a second Line In quot source quot It was in the Line In properties settings where I had checked off the option to quot Listen to this device quot When I disabled that the echo disappeared To view this Line In properties tab right-click on the speaker icon in the notification area then select Recording Devices yes quot Recording quot Then the tab will display in a window with the title Sound You should see the Line In device in the list Right-click on this item and select Properties The Line In properties window pops up Then select the Listen tab UNselect Listen to this device The echo should disappear if you re experiencing my problem I hope this helps someone I m just trying to help the community from which I ve received so much help grinthumb nbsp

A:Removing "line in" echo from Realtek HD Audio output (if it is not a sound effect)

Two same signals

You're doing the right thing... getting rid of the other input signal.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/removing-line-in-echo-from-realtek-hd-audio-output-if-it-is-not-a-sound-effect.178881/
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I have a choice to make on a new monitor.

It needs to be VESA mountable and will be for strategy gaming and work purposes. Games like Wargame, Supreme Commander and World of Tanks. I work as a sysadmin so think lots of windows open!

Do I get a 24" monitor like this Benq (recommendations on a different one are welcome)

Or do I get a 27" monitor. If you think 27" what res would you recommend baring in mind I am sporting a 760gtx.

Thanks,
 

A:24" monitor or 27"

I think 1080P is the best bet for your GTX 760. 2560x1600 or 2560x1440 (27 inch panels) might be a bit too much. It is really personal preference whether you weant a 24 inch or a 27 inch. There are 1080P monitors in both sizes. I recommend Dell, BenQ, ASUS, Samsung, and ACER monitors. There are some other good ones, but I cant think of them off the top of my head.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/24-monitor-or-27.201808/
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Lenovo's VP of Design, David Hill, wants to create a new ThinkPad laptop that is heavily inspired by the old-school designs of popular ThinkPad laptops from the IBM era, stretching as far back as 1992.

Read more
 

A:Lenovo design chief wants to build a retro-styled ThinkPad laptop

I used to use one of those old IBM Thinkpad laptops at around that time and I thought it was the coolest thing ever even if it was terribly slow, weighed almost a ton, had a crappy pixelated display (~2ppi it seemed) and was about a metre thick. I loved it.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/lenovo-design-chief-wants-to-build-a-retro-styled-thinkpad-laptop.215825/
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Hello TS! I have come here today because I am looking for feedback on a budget build for my friend. His price range is preferably $600-700 but he can go as high as $800ish. This is what I have put together so far: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/9R7gcf

I originally went with a 250GB SSD and 8GB of RAM but he thought it was too little (I was thinking external HDD+250GB). Also what is the consensus here about an i3 versus the 860K? I am thinking the quad core is better over the dual core. Also, should the cost savings from the above questions be translated to a better GPU? Finally, I read online that a 450W PSU wasn't gonna cut it so I upped it to a 750W (same price as 650W after rebate)?

Thanks for the help in advance!

He will be primarily playing DOTA 2 (eSports) and CS:GO (leisure).

Edit/Note: I will also be posting this on Tom's Hardware to get as many opinions as possible, so don't be offended D) if you see it on there!
 

A:Feedback on build for a friend

First I have built a nice system using that board; it was great to work with. Newegg.com has this motherboard and that cpu as a special combo for $133.00.

Second, if that is all he is doing with his system that AMD cpu will do him just fine. i3 is an Intel cpu and when using Intel the unwritten rule is that the i5 quad core is the sweet spot for gaming. But, again, that AMD is quite fine.

Why 16 gigs of RAM? If he was doing video rendering or using intense graphic software I could see it but 8 gigs is very good for gaming. Save money and get only 8 gigs.

Corsair makes great power supplies; good choice.

I really don't know that gpu but from the specs and for what he is doing, again, it will do everything he needs.

I don't know that case. With that motherboard I used the Cooler Master HAF 912. Good room, well built, and plenty of air flow especially with an AMD because they can run hot. You may want to get some extra case fans. Also, perhaps an aftermarket cooler.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/feedback-on-build-for-a-friend.215526/
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Hi fellow techspotters,

odd thing has happened to my friend, whos pc I have handbuilt. Every time he starts downloading lets say 1gb or bigger file his RAM starts to fill up. No processes are visible to be the cause. Cpu usage stays on normal level, but the ram just keeps on filling. Until it is throttled by capping on 8gb and he is forced to pause the download and reboot the machine, and the RAM is cleaned.

I posted this under networking, because I doubt that it is a hardware related problem.
The numbers go some like this. 8gb of RAM = 20gb of download -> cap -> restart -> ram clear -> restore download. And the RAM gets used oddly like its ment to behave like this. Does it store something on the way?

It isnt actually a problem, my friend can cope with it. But I as a builder of the PC would really like to solve this. I have never encountered such memory behavior with downloads before.

Screencaps of the situation available when I get home from work.

cheers
m
 

A:RAM capping while downloading large files

Does the machine have an anti-virus installed? And if so, does memory usage have the same effect with or without active scanning?

When monitoring Task Manager, which process is using the memory allotment that appears to be accumulating? Killing the process should clear memory usage by that process.

Forgive me as I beat around the bush, not really knowing what to say.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/ram-capping-while-downloading-large-files.212335/
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Hi All I m planning to build my first ever desktop since my laptop is already having problems and I think it s going to die soon I m going to use the computer mainly for doing D digital artworks editing videos as well as playing games specifically MMORPGs and some like PC First Overclocking) (NO Advice Need Build Gaming Alice Madness amp Skyrim I ll be playing the heavier games on the console so no need to have a monster pc I just First Gaming PC Build Need Advice (NO Overclocking) want something that would accommodate my main use and last First Gaming PC Build Need Advice (NO Overclocking) me a while before I would have the need to upgrade again I also have a budget that I have to stick to I live in the Philippines so it will be Php - Php in USD I think it would be around - As stated above I won t be doing any overclocking whatsoever Here are the specifications of the build I was planning CPU Intel Core i - Processor M Cache up to GHz Motherboard Asus H -PRO GAMER VideoCard EVGA GeForce GTX Ti Superclocked Memory Vengeance Low Profile GB Dual Channel DDR Memory Kit CML GX M A C Storage Samsung GB EVO quot SATA SSD Storage Western Digital Caviar Black TB quot RPM Power Supply Seasonic X W Gold CPU Cooler Cooler Master Seidon V Hybrid Optical Drive ASUS D ST BLACK X SATA Case Obsidian Series D Mid-Tower PC Case Case Fan Scythe Kaze Jyuni PWM mm rpm CFM x Since this is a first opinions are greatly appreciated I m open for First Gaming PC Build Need Advice (NO Overclocking) suggestions if you think there are better parts that should replace the ones listed It would also be very nice if it would be cheaper without losing the performance and quality Thanks in advance nbsp

A:First Gaming PC Build Need Advice (NO Overclocking)

Thorah said:





Hi All,

I'm planning to build my first ever desktop since my laptop is already having problems and I think it's going to die soon...

I'm going to use the computer mainly for doing 2D digital artworks, editing videos as well as playing games, specifically MMORPGs and some like Alice Madness & Skyrim.
I'll be playing the heavier games on the console so no need to have a monster pc.
I just want something that would accommodate my main use and last me a while before I would have the need to upgrade again.

I also have a budget that I have to stick to. I live in the Philippines so it will be Php 50,000 - Php 55,000 , in USD I think it would be around $ 1000 - $ 1200.

As stated above, I won't be doing any overclocking whatsoever.

Here are the specifications of the build I was planning.

CPU: Intel® Core? i5-4690 Processor (6M Cache, up to 3.90 GHz)
Motherboard: Asus H97-PRO GAMER
VideoCard: EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti Superclocked
Memory: Vengeance® Low Profile ? 8GB Dual Channel DDR3 Memory Kit (CML8GX3M2A1600C9)
Storage: Samsung 120 GB 840 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM
Power Supply: Seasonic X650 650W 80+ Gold
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Seidon 120V Hybrid
Optical Drive: ASUS24D3ST BLACK 24X SATA
Case: Obsidian Series® 450D Mid-Tower PC Case
Case Fan: Scythe Kaze Jyuni PWM 120mm, 1300rpm, 74CFM (x3)

Since this is a first, opinions are greatly appreciated. I'm open for suggestions if you think there are better parts that should replace the ones listed. It would also be very nice if it would be cheaper without losing the performance and quality.

Thanks in advance!Click to expand...

What programs do you specifically use for video editing and such?

Also a couple of notes:
1: That PSU is a bit overkill for that build or most builds. I would suggest a Gold Rated 550Watt as being a cheaper better option for you.
2: Save a couple of bucks and grab a Western Digital Blue 1tb HDD or a Seagate Barracuda 1tb HDD. WD Black HDD's are awesome but generally they are a bit more for not much of a difference overall.

Can you link the site from which you are ordering your parts from?
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/first-gaming-pc-build-need-advice-no-overclocking.210692/
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Hi guys I m planning to build my first ever gaming PC I do not know that much about specs and all of that The computer is going to be need first PC for advice build ever my I used for indie games like The Escapists Gmod KSP Pixel Piracy etc heavy games like Skyrim Tomb Raider The Witcher etc and also games like Lichdom Battlemage and Hearthstone It has to be able to play the heaviest games at a consistently high framerate at least - I also own a PS which will be used to play games that are consolebased like ACU horrible game BTW and console exclusive games like Bloodborne Since this is my first ever PC build I want it to last long I won t be doing any overclocking it scares me Therefore I will also be able to pay about I don t know about this pricetag because I don t know how the US taxes and Denmark where I m from has a very large tax I will also be able to pay more than this but I seems right Here are the components that I was planning to use Can you give me some feedback Are there any of these things that won t fit together is I need advice for my first ever PC build something overkill underkill I won t I need advice for my first ever PC build pay for a high end GPU if I have a low end CPU Things have to fit together CPU Intel Core i - Processor M Cache up to GHz GPU GTX Gaming G - MSi MotherBoard Z Gaming - MSi I know nothing about motherboards Memory HyperX Fury Black Series GB x GB Again I know nothing about RAM Storage SAMSUNG EVO MZ- E B AM quot GB SATA III Storage Seagate Barracuda ST DM TB RPM Power Cooler Master G M Would this be enough or would it be overkill CPU Cooler Stock Once again I don t know if this is enough but I am not going to OC sooo Would liquid cooling make sense or should I invest in a stronger cooling unit DVD writer ASUS DVD-Writer Black SATA Model DRW- F ST Case Cooler Master HAF Advanced A case has to be stylish This looks okay and there seems to be room for everything Do I have to buy better fans or are the stock ones good enough Please give me some feedback I really need it to be confident with my PC build If I don t get to know more about this I will have to buy a pre-build PC from another pro company nbsp

A:I need advice for my first ever PC build

Hi. First, I am not sure you are aware of it but right now Newegg.com has a three combo special that includes your processor, motherboard, and memory that will save you $42.00. So you can rest assured what you listed with those items will work well.

1. The i5 is considered by many to be the sweet-spot for gaming. Good choice.
2. HyperX memory is made by Kingston and they manufacture excellent RAM and have for years.
3. That motherboard is a BEAST. Do you need everything/will you utilize everything that it offers?
4. I would just get a stronger cooling unit.
5. Check out Western Digital's Black series for hard drives in the 7200 rpm models.
6. Couldn't say about the psu; I usually use the Corsair line. Whatever you choose seriously consider either the Gold or Plantinum Plus certification. 650 watts of power would probably do you but research how much power that video card demands and what the manufacture recommends.

As for the case, the last four systems I have built have all been encased in the Cooler Master HAF series. I absolutely love them for air flow and build quality but make sure that you purchase a an additional side fan and top fan for greater air flow. Here is a good rule to keep in mind: Between the inflow of air or its exhaust, exhaust is the more important. I would get a 120mm size fan for the side and blow in and a 140mm side for the top as exhaust.

I want to suggest that you seriously consider getting the bigger brother of the 912. I found that the 912 is excellent for the micro-ITX boards but for me personally it seems a little cramped for the standard ATX boards -- though I have done it without issue. Look at the HAF 922 which is a mid-tower but with tons of room; I have one for my main rig. There is the full tower 932 but that is probably overkill.

Hope this helps.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/i-need-advice-for-my-first-ever-pc-build.213776/
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Hi, Guys (And Gals) I'm attempting my 1st PC build and HAVE used the various online power supply calculators... however I'd like to hear some feedback from you all. No matter where I look online I always like to come here to be sure. My specs for the build are as follows:

MoBo: GIGABYTE GA-F2A68HM-H FM2+ USB 3.0 MATX
Amd A6 5400K 3600Mhz Blk Edt 1mb 65w Socket FM2


Video Card: XFX RADEON R7 240 2GB DDR3 LOW PROFILE
RAM: ADATA XPG V1 DDR3 1600 4GB

HDD: Seagate 1TB Serial ATA HD 7200/64MB/SATA-6G

I would really like to use one of the 350W or 400W power supply I stripped from my previous PC's. I'm thinking of hooking it to an HDMI or VGA projector eventually though (Haven't bought it yet) Can I get away with one of these and play a game like World of Warcraft? or do I need to order something like the
SolidGear 650W PS2 ATX Power Supply on Tiger Direct?

Thanks in advance for any advice & thoughts
 

A:1st Build Power Supply Question

Over engineer the PS;

Calculate the actual needed power,

add a fudge factor and

multiply by 1.5.
Then round up to the next commonly available size
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/1st-build-power-supply-question.213326/
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Hey there all.

This problem just happened recently. Every time I put a blank CD in my CD drive, a message appears saying "E:\ is not accessible. Incorrect Function. I can watch DVDs but it won't recognize any blank CDs I put.

Any ideas?

Thanks in Advance.
 

A:Drive is not accessible - "incorrect function"

First try this from the Windows Explorer after you have inserted a disc.

Right-Click on E: drive

Select Properties from the pop up menu

Select the Recording Tab

then check the "Enable CD Recording On This Drive" box.
.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/drive-is-not-accessible-incorrect-function.166087/
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Is this a good build to play newer shooter games and games like the witcher 3
Any recommendations for better parts this will cost $473 is budget is 500

Compatibility Check: No issues/incompatibilities found
CPU
AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor
$96.93 $96.93 OutletPC
Buy
CPU Cooler
Cooler Master RR-HT2-28PK-R1 54.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
$15.99 $15.99 SuperBiiz
Buy
Motherboard
MSI 760GMA-P34(FX) Micro ATX AM3+ Motherboard
$54.99 -$10.00 $44.99 Micro Center
Buy
$10.00 mail-in rebate
Memory
Mushkin Essentials 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
$50.99 FREE $50.99 Newegg
Buy
Add Additional Memory
Storage
Western Digital RE3 750GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
$28.01 $3.99 $32.00 Amazon
Buy
Add Additional Storage
Video Card
Gigabyte Radeon R9 280 3GB WINDFORCE Video Card
$179.99 -$20.00 $2.99 $162.98 Newegg
Buy
$20.00 mail-in rebate
Case
Thermaltake Commander MS-I ID ATX Mid Tower Case
$47.99 -$15.00 $32.99 Micro Center
Buy
$15.00 mail-in rebate
Power Supply
EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply
$36.99 $36.99 SuperBiiz
Buy
 

A:$500 gaming build

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/92ZHZL
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/92ZHZL/by_merchant/

CPU: AMD Athlon X4 860K 3.7GHz Quad-Core Processor ($72.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper TX3 54.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($17.22 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock FM2A88X Extreme4+ ATX FM2+ Motherboard ($76.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($60.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.75 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon R9 285 2GB WINDFORCE 2X Video Card ($162.98 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($29.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $529.80
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-05-31 08:39 EDT-0400
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/500-gaming-build.213086/
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I'm trying to keep the price limit at $1000 USD. Here are the parts that I've picked out.
CPU: Intel Core i5-4570 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: MSI Z97-GAMING 7 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
HDD: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card
Power Supply: Corsair CX 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
Case (probs doesn't matter) Cooler Master Storm Scout 2 Advanced ATX Mid Tower Case

Thank you
 

A:Are These Specs Good for a Gaming PC? (First Build Ever)

Looks like a nice build to me

I would drop the cpu down to this
https://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80646i54440

and upgrade the gpu to this
https://pcpartpicker.com/part/sapphire-video-card-100364l
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/are-these-specs-good-for-a-gaming-pc-first-build-ever.212847/
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Hello its my first post!
Well anyways I just build my first ever pc using tutorials like (Austin Evans) well I build it turned it on, and all the fans would work then right after stop! Sometimes I get one bleep from the psu, What should I do as im really annoyed as I spent hours do this!

thanks
 

A:PC turns on then off (newly build)

Since you say the machine tries to boot, I'll assume the front panel connectors are correctly connected.
Make sure all cards, memory, and cables are properly seated. Including the 4pin/8pin motherboard power connector.
Try a different PSU. I had a PSU go out that acted this way, after an instant shutdown. Yours could be a DOA that acts the same way.
Try a single RAM module at a time. Switch modules if the first one doesn't help.
Try with all unnecessary components disconnected. Any damaged component can keep the PSU from receiving power good status.

 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/pc-turns-on-then-off-newly-build.212476/
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I have scoured the from computer, sounds" can speakers "computing my hear my through I internet for a solution to this and have found nothing First my dxdiag is attached I have had this issue for over a year now and I am getting fed up If I put my ear to my pc I can hear computer noises coming from it I can not compare it to another sound as there is nothing else to compare it too it just sounds like my CPU or Hard Drive thinking That doesnt bother me though I expect my computer to make some noise HOWEVER I dont expect to hear it in my speakers too I have a lot of speakers and a lot of headphones no they are not I can hear "computing sounds" from my computer, through my speakers the problem Right now I am using a knappenberger tube hooked up to a GK MB just cuz I can When I plug in any speakers I can hear the CPU sound through them regardless of the volume level I can turn the speaker all the way down and yet the sound will come through This leads me to believe I can hear "computing sounds" from my computer, through my speakers it is a grounding issue or electrical to some degree I would like to try physically grounding my case to see if it would eliminate this God awful feedback However I can not find a guide as to I can hear "computing sounds" from my computer, through my speakers the best way to do this or any other suggestions So here I am Help me and earn my eternal gratitude Some notes If I unplug all of my cables except power and the speaker cable I still hear it if I plug in my speaker cable to my monitor instead of my PC I still hear it Front port still hear it I have yet to try a different sound card as I dont have one Once I find one I will update nbsp

A:I can hear "computing sounds" from my computer, through my speakers

Checked some settings in the Bios, noticed the sound isnt there while navigating it. Static started once windows loaded. Maybe it is some sort of issue with the hard drive
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/i-can-hear-computing-sounds-from-my-computer-through-my-speakers.202182/
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I have a desktop computer that is running on Windows Xp, up until this morning, everything was fine, I could connect to the internet with no problem.

I turned on my computer, and it is telling me that the network cable is unplugged, as well as my network is not showing when i go to "my network connections"

But yet.....

I AM connected to my router, and there is no problem with the cord (I tried it on different computers as well as my Xbox 360 on the same port....so I know its not the router)....when I go into device manager, everything seems to be working correctly, and my network adapter and ethernet card both are marked as working properly.

Any ideas how I can fix this issue ?
 

A:"Network cable is unplugged" but its really not..

sadgyrl514 said:





I have a desktop computer that is running on Windows Xp, up until this morning, everything was fine, I could connect to the internet with no problem.

I turned on my computer, and it is telling me that the network cable is unplugged, as well as my network is not showing when i go to "my network connections"

But yet.....

I AM connected to my router, and there is no problem with the cord (I tried it on different computers as well as my Xbox 360 on the same port....so I know its not the router)....when I go into device manager, everything seems to be working correctly, and my network adapter and ethernet card both are marked as working properly.

Any ideas how I can fix this issue ?Click to expand...

Try rebooting,
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/network-cable-is-unplugged-but-its-really-not.166539/
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I'm trying to record some karaoke but every time I play back the recorded track, the music is "doubled" with a slight delay, as if the laptop's built-in microphone was picking up the music along with my voice. Here is an example:

http://www.singsnap.com/karaoke/watchandlisten/play/c58ef46c3

Notice how those staccato notes are doubled with that slight delay.

I'm using Windows 7 on a Dell laptop with Realtek.
Under Playback I have two devices: Loudspeaker (enabled) and Realtek Digital Output (disabled)
Under Recording I have: Microphone (enabled) and Stereomix (disabled)

I'm recording using headphones and the laptop's built-in microphone. This is what the Realtek Audio Manager looks like:

It's in German but most options are self-explanatory.

If you could help I'd be very grateful.

Thanks for reading.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/bleeding-when-trying-to-record-on-laptop.211024/
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I have been having this issue for about 2 weeks now. Ive literally tried everything including uninstalling/reinstalling network card, restore points (there are none), a windows update download, and reformatting the hard drive (wont let me). Any help is appreciated. I cant afford a new pc or any new hardware at this time.
 

A:"Failed to query TCP/IP settings of the connection. Cannot proceed."

failed to query tcp/ip settings of the connectionClick to expand...

what did you do when this occurred?

Describe network equipment {modem, router} ISP, and your system.

Connect it all together, get a command prompt, enter ipconfig /all >myTcp.txt
and come back here and paste the contents of myTcp.txt as your reply
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/failed-to-query-tcp-ip-settings-of-the-connection-cannot-proceed.177223/
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Hey guys im looking to retrofit my 6 year old gaming PC here soon, and by retrofit I mean totally rebuild it. here is my current build:

AMD Phenom II X6 1075T 3.00Mhz
6gb DDR3 RAM
Nvidia GTX 470

my question is this, I am really not having too many issues with frame rates yet even on the brand new games so I was wondering if upgrading to SLI on the GTX470's would be comparable to upgrading to a GTX 970? Thanks for the help guys
 

A:Build advice

Jlow85 said:





I was wondering if upgrading to SLI on the GTX470's would be comparable to upgrading to a GTX 970?Click to expand...

I would say yes. Just look at the benchmarks from Passmark. The 970 is more than twice the performance of a 470.

http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=GeForce+GTX+470

.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/build-advice.210856/
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Hi my daughter tried to adjust the resolution and now the screen is Black and stuck on Out Of Range. I cannot even get it safe mode or anything. Just a black screen with the writting. It's a windows xp 32. My son is so sad if anyone knows what to do please help. Thank you.
 

A:PC monitor screen is black & says "Out Of Range"

Repeatedly press F8 while the system is booting.. The very first stuff you see on screen will either be your motherboard splash screen or some text. When you get to the menu where you can make a selection, choose VGA mode NOT Safe Mode. That will boot your computer at 640x480, but it will boot with full driver support, just as if things were normal. Change the resolution to what you want after that.

Remember if you change it to something that goes 'out of range' DO NOT touch anything for 15 seconds. It will revert back to what it was after that time and you can try again.

Unrelated.. Go to school at UMR? or different Miner?
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/pc-monitor-screen-is-black-says-out-of-range.210867/
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Hi, this is my first post on techspot, and I am kind of a newbie on building pc. I have never done it and been looking up everything I can. My needs are just basically normal computing but I want to be able to play new games (shadow of mordor). I dont do any video editing or anything. I have been reading that an i3 will be fine and I need a good gpu instead of overkill on a cpu. I also want a good mobo that has plenty of potential (something about more ports???). I just need to be steered in the right direction of what to get without blowing out the budget. I dont play too many games (and no fps and very few online). I just dont want to see a new game in 6 months that I want and dont have minimum sys requirements. Also I was very skeptical about getting an AMD cpu instead because they get so much hotter, but I know alot of people will recomend it. Sorry for being so longwinded.
 

A:Info/suggestions on build? i3?

Hi BraidedDuke5,
Have you thought of going down the used parts path as you seem to be wanting a machine "cheap" with an i3 instead of looking at what kind of job you really want it to do, unless you will only be playing games in a really low resolution (fps). E.g. the Intel NUC and the ASUS Vivo have Core i3 CPU and they are nothing like a gaming PC.
Here is a couple of pros for a Core i5, and they are;
"Intel Turbo Boost":- Which lets the processor increase its clockspeed whenever the workload on the CPU increases and none of the Core i3 CPUs have Turbo Boost.
"Cache":- The i3 (Ivy Bridge) processors have 3MB (except 4 Clarkdale processors which have 4MB) of cache all the Core i5s (except 4 Ivy Bridge processors which have 3MB and 6 Clarkedale which have 4MB), have 6MB of cache. The cache is like RAM for the processor but it is built into the processor chip. So this gives it (the CPU) access to the memory storage a lot quicker. Without a CPU memory cache and RAM the CPU would need to access the HDD which would be even slower.

Searched eBay.com.au for "i5 cpu" in "Computer components and parts" and had a myriad of choices.

You really need to decide on the CPU first then mobo and then components (small SSD for the O/S, graphics card and RAM) and lastly a PSU to power all your choices (you could even bung a cheap PSU in just to get the rig going, so long as you realise that it WILL fail down the line!)

Hope this helps

Edit:- Changed CPU listings to be accurate for world-wide purchasing as some markets did not get some CPU incarnations released as a new product (based entirely on the Ivy Bridge and Clarkdale Core i3 / i5)
Reference Intel 2105/03/22 from http://ark.intel.com/.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/info-suggestions-on-build-i3.210492/
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The specifications for USB 3.1 were finalized nearly a year and a half ago. Commonly referred to as SuperSpeed Plus, it promises even faster transfer rates than USB 3.0 solutions and with hardware now trickling down to end-users, we're finally...

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A:Here's how fast USB 3.1 is in the real world

Very cool, though I hope when USB3.1 external drives are available that the manufacturer will use an M.2 style SSD that'll properly utilize the 2 PCIe lanes needed to saturate the connection. Using 2 mSATA drives seems... wasteful in terms of space, as well as add "complexity" that is unecessary. Probably will be cheaper in comparison though.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/heres-how-fast-usb-3-1-is-in-the-real-world.209493/
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A:Chromebook Pixel 2015: Great build quality, fast, USB Type-C and cheaper (but still too expensive)

Brick-ish.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/chromebook-pixel-2015-great-build-quality-fast-usb-type-c-and-cheaper-but-still-too-expensive.209610/
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Hey I m new to this site and I was wondering if I could get some help with my computer From what I ve seen it says my computer is compatible with all the parts I ve chosen Compatible? Is Build My But I wanted some help on here to make sure they will work Below are a list of parts that I will be getting CPU Intel Xeon E - V GHz Quad-Core Processor Motherboard MSI Z Guard-Pro ATX LGA Motherboard CPU Cooler Corsair H i CFM Liquid CPU Cooler RAM Kingston Fury Black Series Is My Build Compatible? GB x GB DDR - Memory Hard Drive Seagate Barracuda TB quot RPM Internal Hard Drive Hard Drive Seagate Barracuda TB quot RPM Internal Hard Drive GPU EVGA GeForce GTX GB ACX Video Card Case Deepcool TESSERACT SW ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply Corsair CSM W Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply Optical Drive Sony S-CB-PLUS DVD CD Writer Other Parts I Is My Build Compatible? will figure out later Just to give some perspective I will be using the computer to record videos play games and render out edited videos If you think there are better parts to suit the build or if there are any parts that need to be exchanged please tell me below Also I want to stay at least under Thanks Jettster nbsp

A:Is My Build Compatible?

Personaly from just a quick overview so dont take everything for my word, this build seems like it would work well.
What I would do is:
1) I dont think that this build will be able to use a 450W PSU because your parts are pretty high end and the 970 draws alot of power (145W around about) plus everything else I think that you should get a 500W+ PSU so you wont ever have problems related to power you can overclock and be a little future proof.
2) Why not go with more lower storage HDD's and put them in RAID 0? like 3 1tb HDD? each having like 75mb/s totaling to 225mb/s at the minimum as most modern HDDs are faster than those speeds.

Hope this helped and this is only what I would do. Dont take my word for any facts etc from this comment.
Enjoy
~Joe
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/is-my-build-compatible.209304/
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For the past month, Nvidia has faced its fair share of bad PR thanks to the GeForce GTX 970's memory allocation issue. As has been uncovered by users and explained by Nvidia, the GTX 970's last 512 MB of VRAM...

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A:Nvidia CEO says GTX 970 memory controversy "won't happen again"

Again: the performance didn't change overnight; it's today the same performance than the advertised on launch date. Even that technicality can kill the case. Specifications were the "misleading" part.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/nvidia-ceo-says-gtx-970-memory-controversy-wont-happen-again.209149/
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I put together a list of parts for my first gaming PC for under here is the list of parts http pcpartpicker com user Linkin saved jTfRsY What do you guys think Please tell me if all the parts are compatible good quality and what settings this build is able to play Dying Light The Evil Within Skyrim Minecraft Max Payne Metro Last Light Bioshock Infinite and a few other games and how much FPS I will most likely be able to get this PC and everything else like the monitor OS optical drive keyboard mouse and anything else in July because right now I have and my birthday is in July I usually get around - from my whole family I will also sell my laptop for because on a site it said it is worth that much I might make a few extra bucks through that time so I will have about - I might be able to get better parts if I do get that much Anyway I hope you guys can help and PLEASE as best as you can try to estimate how good it can handle some of the games I listed above it will be a HUGE help thanks a lot guys nbsp

A:Gaming PC Build Under $700 Need Opinions

Get a SSD drive for the boot drive, it will make things load faster, keep the hard drive for u'r down loads, program files, and things that do have to load as fast. and I would advise getting a modular PSU it will make keeping the wires in the case a whole lot cleaner, because u do not have near as many wires connected that way.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/gaming-pc-build-under-700-need-opinions.208836/
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I have a computer that I built and I am pretty sure the motherboard is going out on me... Any suggestions for a new motherboard that will support the parts I already have from my previous build?

MoBo - thats going out - : ASUS Crosshair IV Extreme AM3 AMD 890FX SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Extended ATX AMD Moboo

Processor: AMD Phenom II X6 1100T Black Edition Thuban 6-Core 3.3GHz, 3.7GHz Turbo Socket AM3 125W Desktop Processor

Hard Drive: Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 ST3000DM001 3TB 7200RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive

Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X + Turbulence II Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2133 (PC3 17000) Desktop Memory Model F3-17000CL9Q-16GBXLD

Videocard: EVGA 02G-P3-1386-KR GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

I built this thing around 2011 so any suggestions for something new that will work for me?
 

A:Motherboard for my build

Take a look here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&IsNodeId=1&N=100007625 600158776
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/motherboard-for-my-build.208651/
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As you've probably heard by now, Nvidia is having a few issues with their GeForce GTX 970 graphics card. In response, AMD has lowered the price of the card's main competitor, the Radeon R9 290X, in an attempt to get...

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A:AMD cuts Radeon R9 290X price amid GTX 970 "issues"

Meaning AMD could have been selling the card cheaper this whole time.

AMD needs to stand more firmly in their business decisions. Changing prices on a whim every time the wind blows, shows lack of confidence in their product to sell itself.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/amd-cuts-radeon-r9-290x-price-amid-gtx-970-issues.208450/
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I recently just built a gaming PC with my friend I have installed all of the drivers for the GPU from the installation disk it came displays dark. Build. glitches goes then New problem? Monitor GPU with Windows has been updated fully also besides three updates that continue to fail They are just security updates they may or may not be the problem The PC runs fine and the display will show New Build. Monitor displays glitches then goes dark. GPU problem? clear and crisp for about half an hour until New Build. Monitor displays glitches then goes dark. GPU problem? glitches will start to appear in the screen and next the monitor will appear black The light is still on and the PC is still running whatever it was last I know this because it did it during a driver installation and after I waited an hour and then restarted the PC the driver install was done Often after I restart the PC nothing will show up at all If I wait awhile and get lucky it will boot up normal The glitches happen most often when I try to run a game The mentioned updates continue to fail and idk why I have ran a troubleshoot for the PC as well and the it says no driver can be found for the PCI Simple Communications Controller After I choose to search for the driver online or on my computer it says no driver found During a Windows Update failure I got another error message concerning my graphics driver saying a problem could ve occurred because a graphics driver is missing Yet the program GPU Tweak that was installed with the disk says that everything s up-to-date When I try to update manually it says the sam thing This computer was not expensive I can post exact specs when I can get back into it and maybe some pics Specs Not listed is a terabyte of memory blu-ray burner and and an msi Z -G Gaming motherboard I have a strong internet connection and am using a DVI port for the monitor I have ruled out the monitor as the problem Before I said the PC was NOT expensive I meant NOT cheap I spent around on the parts nbsp

A:New Build. Monitor displays glitches then goes dark. GPU problem?

Looking at the screen shot of GPU-Z it appears you are running a AMD Catalyst 13.8 BETA drivers. I would suggest downloading the latest drivers from AMD: AMD Catalyst Omega Drivers 14.12. Then go into your control panel and completely uninstall the amd catalyst from your computer. Once completed, you may need to reboot the computer. After reboot, install the newest drivers from the link I posted above. Do so and then try again to produce same error results. Let us know if it works or not so we can try other options, or resolve the issue.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/new-build-monitor-displays-glitches-then-goes-dark-gpu-problem.207947/
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I have a good system. I am likely to give it to my daughter and build a new one. I have read a few reviews of some new Motherboards and processors taking advantage of the new DDR4.

Does anyone have any insight on if its prudent to build in spring or perhaps wait>?

I can wait as my system is still very good. I just like fiddling with new stuff and builds.

Also will Windows 10 be available for builds by this time or again is this a wait and see?

Thanks much!
 

A:DDR4, Build now or wait till Summer?

You can install the preview version of 10 (beta work-in-progress). DDR4 more expensive than DDR3 but of course if you plan on buying CPU to take advantage of DDR4 speed would be the way to go for now.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/ddr4-build-now-or-wait-till-summer.207710/
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I have a mystery on my hands. I received a Bluetooth speaker as a gift. The BT-4.0 adapter plugged into my computer (USB-2.0 port) detects it (as a "Bluetooth headset"), but when I try to select it as my output device (from the "Sound" Control Panel), Windows reports it as "Disconnected".

If I open "Devices and Printers" and right-click the "Bluetooth headset" icon, I get an alert that the device "Failed to initialize".

I've tried rebooting, tried a different BT adapter, updated my BT drivers off the makers' website, Device Manager shows everything is connected & working (including "Bluetooth Audio").

64bit Win7 Home. Inateck BT-4.0 usb adapter. Speaker is a "MicroBoom" BT v2.1:
Any ideas?

PS: Eliminated the obvious. Speaker is fully charged and works just fine with my phone.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/bluetooth-headphones-paired-but-disconnected-failed-to-initialize.207624/
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http://pcpartpicker.com/p/FWD2TW

all the parts etc will they last ? I wont be doing hardcore like using it all the time but I do want top of the line stuff. I don't mind prices at all. I like to pay for stuff thats worth it.

What could I edit in this build to to make it either better bang for its buck and better for performance?

I want to play all games at ultra and I want to be able to not upgrade anything for a couple years or so.
I mainly will be playing old games like modding GTA IV etc...
 

A:Is this build worth it?

Surprised no one has responded to this yet.
Without knowing what games you might eventually get, its hard to build a computer that can play "ultra" setting. Games being released now are requiring better (if not top of the line - depending on the game) components.
If you were to use the existing setup that you have linked, I would suggest changing a couple things:
The RAM is rated at 1.6V and the motherboard is 1.5V. This is a small issue, but you should try to make sure that it is the same voltage. Makes for less "headaches" while trying to setup the computer. I would also suggest with the RAM - go 16GB (2x8GB) instead of 8GB (2x4GB). 8GB is the norm for gaming now, but who knows in the future. Better to get it now and out of the way, if you can afford it.
I would suggest getting a 800W (or higher) Power Supply instead of the 600W you have listed. This way "if" you do decide to get a different (or add a second) video card, you will have plenty of power to supply to it.
Last thing is you did not include a case to house all of these parts. I would suggest something that has "breathing" room. Get a case that you can add in a couple case fans to create proper air circulation and help eliminate heat buildup.
This is all just my opinion though, so take it as you want. But if you really want to "future proof" as much as possible, my suggestions would help a good deal with doing so.
Let us know what you end up deciding and ultimately come out with when (and if) you build this computer.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/is-this-build-worth-it.207207/
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I don't know if this is the topic/forum. I was wondering if this pc build could play all of the following.

Arma 3
Arma 2
Grand theft auto V(GTA5 for when it comes out)
Grand theft auto IV
battle field 3
battle field 4
Dead island
Crysis 3
all metro city's
And a lot of games like that to medium-high-max settings.

If I posted this on the wrong forum I'm sorry.

http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Famous/saved/sZxWGX

If you guys want you can post part suggestions.
 

A:Is this a good gaming pc build?

Lets start with: What is your overall budget for this build? We might be able to build something better depending on how much you have.
Going with what you currently have listed I would suggest only minor changes to include:
The motherboard is a Dual Channel RAM setup - So you need to find RAM that comes as a pair (2x4GB instead of 1x8GB) for better efficiency.
I would also suggest getting a PSU (power supply) that is from a better known manufacture. Yes the one you selected will work, but the lesser brand ones have the tendency to fail more often (and the one you selected does not have too many good reviews).
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/is-this-a-good-gaming-pc-build.207377/
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Okay, I really want to build a gaming PC.
BUT I DON'T KNOW WHERE TO START.
So, I basically want to build a gaming computer for the experience of putting one together.
I'd rather have intel or AMD, whichever is fine.
My budget is anything, but $650-700 MAX.
Now, I know 650-700 is minimum for a GAMING computer (at least I think I know), but all I want to do on the computer is normal gaming. Like, not hardcore 4k thing or whatever, but just ONE monitor playing a simple game. I don't need ULTRA graphic settings on the game, low-medium but still high dps is absolutely fine. I just want to be able to play modern games smoothly.
I have an idea of some stuff I want, BUT I have NO CLUE with compatibility with these things. I don't know how to tell this stuff.
So could someone give me the parts of a good computer for a gamer such as I? I play WoW, D3, MC, L4D2, SMITE, etc.
I shoulda asked this earlier....today's Cyber Monday.. I NEED TO SQUEEZE IN SOME PURCHASES!

Thanks!! Please help me out
 

A:I want to build a Gaming PC

Well, since nobody else replied, here is a start: http://www.techspot.com/guides/buying/page3.html
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/i-want-to-build-a-gaming-pc.207249/
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Hello It may seem like a simple problem but I know nothing of the subject and I ve had the problem for ages Whenever I copy large files Movie size think MB the copy progresses very remaining" drives "5 sec Copying to/from stuck before for flash on 30 finishing seconds fast MB s until it reaches about where it gets stuck for about seconds to a minute and it says quot Time remaining seconds quot during all that time I have this problem with any flash drive in any USB port amp It also happens when copying to network drives and external harddrives which leads me to think it s a software windows issue Some vital information Copying to/from flash drives stuck on "5 seconds remaining" for 30 sec before finishing The flash drive I mainly use is USB quite new and easily capable of MB s writing speeds It reaches about - MB s during the copy until the final point where it still says MB s but does nothing for seconds USB port is also and I ve also tried every single other port in my computer None are broken and none ever show any signs of being slow The flash drive is NTFS formatted but it used to be FAT I ran checkdisk to see if there was anything wrong but there wasn t It s NTFS since I occasionally need files gt GB I tried using TeraCopy to bypass the issue but this way doesn t reach speeds of over MB s which takes even longer in the end It does fix the hanging at issue I tried converting the drive back to FAT which removes the issue of it hanging at but again the speed doesn t go above MB s which means it takes longer in the end making it not worth it What bothers me is that the files transfer at the maximum speed right until the very end where it just magically gets stuck for seconds or more before finishing like nothing happened Please advise P S I shamefully have to admit I never safely remove my hardware nbsp

A:Copying to/from flash drives stuck on "5 seconds remaining" for 30 sec before finishing

Marty9231 said:





Hello!

It may seem like a simple problem, but I know nothing of the subject and I've had the problem for ages.

Whenever I copy large files (Movie size, think 700MB+), the copy progresses very fast (~100MB/s) until it reaches about 99% where it gets stuck for about 30 seconds to a minute, and it says "Time remaining: 5 seconds" during all that time.

I have this problem with any flash drive, in any USB port (2 & 3). It also happens when copying to network drives and external harddrives, which leads me to think it's a software/windows issue.

Some vital information:

The flash drive I mainly use is USB 3.0, quite new and easily capable of ~150MB/s writing speeds. It reaches about 120-130 MB/s during the copy until the final point where it still says 130 MB/s but does nothing for 30 seconds.

USB port is also 3.0, and I've also tried every single other port in my computer. None are broken, and none ever show any signs of being slow.

The flash drive is NTFS formatted, but it used to be FAT32. I ran checkdisk to see if there was anything wrong, but there wasn't. It's NTFS since I occasionally need files >4GB.

I tried using TeraCopy to bypass the issue, but this way doesn't reach speeds of over 20MB/s which takes even longer in the end. It does fix the 'hanging at 99% issue'.

I tried converting the drive back to FAT32, which removes the issue of it hanging at 99%, but again the speed doesn't go above 20MB/s which means it takes longer in the end, making it not worth it.

What bothers me is that the files transfer at the maximum speed right until the very end, where it just magically gets stuck for 30 seconds or more, before finishing like nothing happened.

Please advise!!

P.S.: I shamefully have to admit I never safely remove my hardware. Click to expand...

Although I've had the same happen on my downloads, this "P.S.: I shamefully have to admit I never safely remove my hardware." could be part of the problem, good luck.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/copying-to-from-flash-drives-stuck-on-5-seconds-remaining-for-30-sec-before-finishing.207001/
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Hi. Im about To build a gaming pc and I have came up with This :

inno 3d ichill geforce gtg 980 herculeZ x4 air boss ultra 4gb GDDR5, DVI, HDMI, 3xdisplayport

Cooler master nepton 280L watercooling system

XFX pro650W core edition full wired power supply

Intel core i7-5820k, 6x 3.30ghz

Asus x99-a

Fractal design define r4 titnaium grey window

Crucial 8gb ddr4 2133 x 2

is this a good build ?

Moderator note: This thread has been moved from another member's thread.
 

A:Is this a good gaming build?

thehubbapubba said:





Hi. Im about To build a gaming pc and I have came up with This :

inno 3d ichill geforce gtg 980 herculeZ x4 air boss ultra 4gb GDDR5, DVI, HDMI, 3xdisplayport

Cooler master nepton 280L watercooling system

XFX pro650W core edition full wired power supply

Intel core i7-5820k, 6x 3.30ghz

Asus x99-a

Fractal design define r4 titnaium grey window

Crucial 8gb ddr4 2133 x 2

is this a good build ?Click to expand...

You should start your own thread next time with the question instead but its decent depending on what your wanting. I am also a bit confused by your wording in spots because it sounds a bit weird.

Are you just gaming on this machine or do you have other ideas in mind?
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/is-this-a-good-gaming-build.206882/
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Please help.. Can't connect to the wifi but using ethernet is working fine.. My phone could connect to the same wifi though
tried to backread some of the threads but didn't work on my laptop
 

A:Cannot "fully" connect to wifi but works fine on ethernet

Additional info. I am using Atheros AR5006EXS Wireless Network Adapter
and I did deleted the driver and it installed again automatically, but sadly it still doesn't work
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/cannot-fully-connect-to-wifi-but-works-fine-on-ethernet.206650/
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I've been having an issue which started this morning. The previous night, I forgot to plug in my Dell Inspiron N5050 after using it. I woke up to find that my battery had died (obviously). I plugged in the laptop, running Windows 7 HE 64 bit, and turned it on. It booted normally and I was able to do all of my tasks as needed. Then I noticed my problem. The battery icon down on the taskbar showed that the device was plugged in, but was not charging. It has stayed at a constant 2% charge for more than 24 hours now. The Battery Meter stated that my battery is performing normally, so I ruled the battery out as the cause. The adapter I am using is the default one that came with the laptop when I bought it, and it appears to be functioning normally as well. What could be the cause of this incident, and what can I do to fix it?
 

A:Battery Stated as "Plugged in, Not Charging"

Most likely you have a bad battery. Dell has had whole series of batteries that they shipped out in a not fully functional state. I have an HP laptop (about 8 years old now) that the battery took a "steamy one" and it will no longer charge properly. You can try this trick (it may not work, but worth a try because did work for me a couple times): power down laptop and take the battery out for 30 minutes; replace battery and plug in charger but do not power on; wait 4 hours of charge and power on. I had it work a couple times that it gave a full 100% charge. Again, if it doesn't work then sorry, but at least you tried.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/battery-stated-as-plugged-in-not-charging.203683/
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Hello everyone - I have just assembled a new build It will not power up I need a suggestion to figure out if the problem is the case or the motherboard This is a mini-itx build power-up: power New or Build MB? no supply case's The case is New Build no power-up: case's power supply or MB? Linkworld LC - B This case comes with a volt watt external laptop-style power supply that plugs into the rear of the case just like New Build no power-up: case's power supply or MB? a laptop power supply plugs into a laptop - a barrel connector Inside this power connection connects to a power supply component that is not like a regular ATX power supply but is on a printed-circuit board New Build no power-up: case's power supply or MB? mounted on the case This has several capacitors and other stuff From that comes the -pin and -pin power supply lines for the motherboard I assume the -volt power supply for this external power supply unit is right since it came with the case It was watt The processor is an IBM t with TDP of watts Lower-powered CPUs can be put in a small so I assumed the power supply might be under-powered I ordered a -watt volt power supply with the right size barrel - and same polarity pos inside The MB is an ASRock H MV-ITX It is mini-itx form factor Still same problem Everything is connected correctly When I press the power-on button an external CD drive I have plugged-in spins up for a while But no power light comes on in the front of the case there are no POST beeps the fan for the CPU does not spin up No other signs of life So power is getting into the MB - the external CD drive is plugged into a USB socket in the rear panel of the MB After trying a watt and watt power supply I believe the problem cannot be the power supply cord Can it be that I have too little load I don t think so I plugged in another mm fan and an ol-fashion floppy drive just the power connection to add more load - same thing no power-up no POST nothing but the CD drive will spin up when I open-then-close it yet again So here is the help I need what else can I try -assuming the MB and case are fine is it more likely the case power supply is bad or the MB --Thanks nbsp

A:New Build no power-up: case's power supply or MB?

Well, I figured out the problem.
I am planning to re-do the older mini-itx system I have; it has gotten riddled with Trojan software for kids downloading games; it basically has been de-commissioned already.

So, I took the pico-psu power supply from that older computer, and hooked it up to the one I am making. Everything went perfectly.

So, I un-did that, removed the MB from case, disconnected the barrel-power connection from the case, unscrewed and removed the power supply that had been mounted in the case, put the pico-psu power supply back in place (I had to drill the hole for the barrel-connection out to be a little bigger since the pico-psu internal/external connection is threaded and held in place by nut with lock washer), and routed wires to be clear of cpu fan, screwed MB to stand-offs, and closed it all up.

now, everything is great. I like this linkworld case, but the power supply is worthless. I may try to get a few dollars back from the ebay vendor, to make me happy with a case that is less than what I should have gotten, but is working for me; I don't want to wait on returns, etc.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/new-build-no-power-up-cases-power-supply-or-mb.206259/
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Good day PC masters/expert/etc, can I ask something? about my computer, the cmos battery of my motherboard just last with in a week what should I do? need some help or tips, thanks a lot

-gaz
 

A:Cmos Battery Drain Fast

Gazher said:





Good day PC masters/expert/etc, can I ask something? about my computer, the cmos battery of my motherboard just last with in a week what should I do? need some help or tips, thanks a lot

-gazClick to expand...

I am not an expert. my limted experience with CMOS battery (CR2032) tells me that it will last for years. for replacement, I use energizer brand which costs less than a dollar.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/cmos-battery-drain-fast.206249/
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My new build wont power on all I hear is a few high pitch sounds coming from what I think is the psu.
My specs:

SSD 128GB SAMSUNG 850 Pro
1TB HDD (from previous build it was working fine 2 days ago)

2TB HDD(from previous build it was working fine 2 days ago)

GPU = GTX 680 2GB (from previous build it was working fine 2 days ago) MSI GTX 970 GAMING 4G GeForce GTX 970 4GB 256-Bit on it's way in the mail.

Case is pretty old and doesnt have a lid but it was working fine with my pervious buid)

PSU = CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750W ATX12V v2.31/ EPS12V v2.92 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC High Performance Power Supply (from previous build it was working fine 2 days ago)

Heatsink = Scythe Ashura Universal Processor Cooler

CPU = Intel Core i7-4790K Haswell Refresh Quad-Core 4.0GHz

Motherboard = MSI Z97-Gaming 7 Intel Z97 Motherboard

Memory = CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory

Please help me
 

A:New build wont power on

Disconnect everything except the monitor, cpu, ram. In fact, go down to 1 stick of ram. Will it POST now?
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/new-build-wont-power-on.206021/
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Hi I'm not a tech-y person so I'm just hoping that someone can help me.

I recently bought a new laptop it's a Lenovo G40
System:

Intel Core i5-4210U CPU @ 1.70GHz 2.40 GHz
RAM: 4.00GB
64-bit Operating System
Windows 8.1 Single Language
I got home, downloaded and installed Firefox for me to use as my default browser. I got to use it for awhile (about 3 hrs) then I tried going on Facebook and it was taking too long to load. Then I tried it on my phone, it loaded faster than on my laptop. I tried searching (on both devices) random stuff on google (e.g. Miley Cyrus) and it took my laptop about 3 mins to load and my phone only took less than a minute to load. I did a speedtest on my laptop and I got 3.4mbps as a result (that's fast enough right?).

I really hope someone could help me with this because I'm currently student and I have a lot of requirements to do and I can't do that without a laptop and internet.
 

A:Slow internet on laptop but fast on phone

So, all 3 are on WiFi. Can you run a test with either of the laptops connected with an Ethernet cable and let us know the results? I suspect your wireless router has 802.11N, and that your phone supports it but your PCs only support 802.11G. 802.11N and G don't always play nicely together, and no 802.11G implementations is ever going to deliver 49Mbps of application layer throughput.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/slow-internet-on-laptop-but-fast-on-phone.205723/
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I used RV042 10/100 4-Port VPN Router. I've configured the dual WAN, and enable Load Balancing for faster internet. But if I accessedhttp://ipchicken.com/ my IP Address is always chaging? How can I setup the router sticking to just one IP address?
 

A:How to "Load Balance" without changing the IP?

Let me preface by saying....taking two circuits and using them at the same time, even with protocol management from the LB is most likely not worth the effort.

But for the sake of the argument, the first hurdle you have is that both circuits need to have static IPs. What type of connections are they?
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/how-to-load-balance-without-changing-the-ip.205897/
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This build will be for my 77 year old mother who lives in another state and I am trying to build this as stable and problem free preventative mode as best as I can with the understanding that any hardware can fail at any time.

Anyway, NewEgg is having both their Blue and Black WD 1TB hard drives on sale that goes off of sale after tomorrow. I know Black is often the choice due to build quality and 5 year warranty. However, the Blue would really help budget wise because every dollar counts and it sees many people have had good success with the Blue.

She does MS Office, email, surfing plus she has an online business that keeps her very busy along with uploading a lot of photos.

Thanks.
 

A:New Build: Western Digital Blue or Black?

Blue. Because of her work tasks.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/new-build-western-digital-blue-or-black.204928/
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Hi, I'm building a budget gaming PC but I don't know what motherboard to get. Here's the parts I'm planning on buying:

Intel Core i5-3570
Corsair Builder Series CX 430
Radeon HD7850

A H77 board will do as the cost of a K cpu and Z77 board (I presume) would cost way more. I'm thinking something around the price of a Asus P8H77-V LE.

Thanks
 

A:What motherboard should I get for my build?

It matters on what brand you buy. Some H77 motherboards come close to low end Z77 boards. Also, the 3570K is just $20 more and allows for you to unlock your system fully as long as you have proper cooling.

If you would like, I can take a look at your build and recommend better components if I see it fit. Just provide me with a budget .
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/what-motherboard-should-i-get-for-my-build.203630/
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Hi guys I have a new job build, after advice A new and few outgoing troubles for the moment so I decided I want to throw some A new build, after advice money away while I can For years I have a had a really simple PC usually for uni basic gaming etc with only a couple of upgrades to GPU PSU but now I A new build, after advice have the itch to create something bigger and largely unnecessary I have read and read and snooped and searched A new build, after advice various tech-based sites but it is kind of like opening a book to the middle and trying to understand what is going on so I am here to ask you fine people for some compatibility questions as well as obvious things I may have skipped over or missed Here is a quick list of things I have ended up being interested in MBoard Asus Maximus VII Hero Z or something similar CPU i - K GHz not sure to the benefits of jumping to i or such GPU s In this respect I am perfectly open to discussion I am willing to pay in total for something ridiculous MSI GTX Ti x PSU EVGA w P Memory Corsair Vengeance Pro x gb DDR - Basically the idea is to spend unnecessarily but also with a little future-proofing in there Things to bare in mind I am by no means rich but at this point in time I would like to spend a little money on myself Seriously though in total anything to give or take a couple hundred would be acceptable Secondly this build would be something I need to spend a month or two saving for to buy so if there is anything new and sparkly coming out in the near future I am sure that I am totally oblivious to it so feel free to advise Thank you in advance for anyone who helps me out nbsp

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/a-new-build-after-advice.205476/
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Hello,

I just finished assembling my first build. At first it turned on without a hitch, was able to install windows and a few drivers.

I had to restart a few times, which went fine for the first few times, and then it just didn't boot back up. The power button doesn't do anything, the fans don't start, nothing happens.

When I jump the psu, all the fans start, so I'm thinking the issue must be with the mobo..

Here's a list of all the parts I'm using : http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/JFVvD3

Thanks.
 

A:Mobo issue? Custom build won't start anymore

First, are any wires touching that might be causing a short such as a wire touching the back of the mobo? Second, I had something similar happen to me a few years ago with a new build. There is a tried and true though often tedious way that can help diagnose possible issues.

1. Remove all hardware except for one RAM stick from the motherboard and this includes Sata and fan connections to peripherals such as your SSD, etc,

2. Now see if the system boots with only the one RAM stick. If it boots then shut down add the second stick of RAM and then reboot. If it boots then repeat by adding a piece at a time.

3. If is doesn't boot then it is either your mobo or your power supply. Also, check to see if your heat sink is seated correctly.

BTW, nice little system there.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/mobo-issue-custom-build-wont-start-anymore.205000/
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Dell is releasing a new 5K monitor in Q4 this year. That's your ideal 2560 x 1440 quadrupled for retina effect, while keeping the perfect proportions, with the software that supports it that is, for the total of 5120 x 2880 madness.
 

A:Dell 27" 5K Monitor

VitalyT said:





Dell is releasing a new 5K monitor in Q4 this year. That's your ideal 2560 x 1440 quadrupled for retina effect, while keeping the perfect proportions, with the software that supports it that is, for the total of 5120 x 2880 madness.Click to expand...

And I thought 4K was crazy high resolution already xD.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/dell-27-5k-monitor.205015/
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Hi, when I typed " dxdiag " it said n/a, last time I checked there was something written in it..
 

A:When I typed " dxdiag " it said n/a

Check your graphics drivers and install the latest one.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/when-i-typed-dxdiag-it-said-n-a.204746/
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I bought a 250 GB Samsung Evo SSD 840 for my desktop (850 isn't available in Canada yet). I'm running Windows 7 but am considering upgrading to Windows 8 or Ubuntu (or dualboot/vmware). My work is technical and to keep up with the times I am considering Windows 8, though I don't have a touchscreen. I am not sure the kind of configuration to use and am open to ideas. The current hard drive I have is a slow 1TB one. I was planning on setting up the SSD as a cache.

EDIT: my motherboard is Asus p8z68-v le
 

A:Setup with 1TB harddrive and fast 250GB SSD

I would not recommend setting up a cache at all with that large capacity SSD. Usually people cache with 64GB SSDs, but in your case, you might as well just migrate data to the SSD and use the HDD for bulk storage (large files).
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/setup-with-1tb-harddrive-and-fast-250gb-ssd.204009/
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Hi everyone

Could someone look over what I have and see if there is anything wrong with the list. oo and I have a SSD hard drive already and can someone recommend a CD drive and ram?
thanks in advance

Qty.Product DescriptionSavingsTotal Price
1
ASUS GeForce GTX 770 GTX770-DC2OC-2GD5 Video Card
Item #:N82E16814121770
Return Policy: VGA Replacement Only Return Policy
$399.99
$374.99
1
NVIDIA Gift - Watch Dogs
Item #:N82E16800995199
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy
$69.99
1
Intel Core i7-4770 3.4GHz LGA 1150 Desktop Processor
Item #:N82E16819116900
Return Policy: CPU Replacement Only Return Policy
$338.99
$326.99
1
CORSAIR CSM Series CS750M 750W Power Supply
Item #:N82E16817139061
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy
$129.99
1
ASUS SABERTOOTH Z97 MARK1 ATX Intel Motherboard
Item #:N82E16813132124
Return Policy: Limited Replacement Only Return Policy
$274.99
$254.99
1
NZXT Phantom 410 Series CA-PH410-B1 Black Computer Case With Side Panel Window
Item #:N82E16811146085
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy
$124.99
$104.99
Grand Total:$1,191.95
 

A:First computer build

Holy smokes.

Possibly, no one has commented because 1. people want to hear what you are aiming for - a gaming PC? CAD/CAM? Web-surfing? etc., and 2. you sure piled on a list of pricey items without any argument for why you need such pricey items when you can do nearly as well by sliding down the price range a lot, and 3. you have not said what size the SSD is - it might not be large enough to comfortably support operating system plus a few multi-player games.

A first-time build does not have to be the ultimate Win experience. Largely, builders work for a trade-off between cost and function. For your first build, you may want to build something that is straightforward, not too expensive, and can be upgraded in the future.

If money is no object, just get the most expensive of everything and enjoy. Just make sure everything is compatible.

I am not trying to be rude. Just kinda surprised by the price tags, and the lack of responses thus far.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/first-computer-build.204008/
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My sister's 13" MBP (2011) died a few hours ago. According to what she told me, she was using it, and then, poof, black screen and no power. She doesn't have the cash at the moment to have it properly checked by a tech, so I did a basic troubleshoot in an attempt to narrow things down.

While the internals are a bit dirty, I didn't see any obvious signs of physical damage (it was relevant to check for this). Furthermore, the machine doesn't seem to respond to any power sources. I tried a couple different power cables and, while the little amber light on the magsafe (sp?) tab will come on briefly, the computer with neither power on nor display a charge on the built-in charge indicator. I will also note that the machine failed while disconnected from an outlet source with a full battery indicated.

My initial conclusions are a) the computer fried itself or b) the battery is toast. Any suggestions?
 

A:2011 MBP 13" Won't Power Up

If no one here can offer any insight, I would post this to the Apple discussion forum. There are usually people there that can diagnose this from just a description so that is your best bet.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/2011-mbp-13-wont-power-up.204013/
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Can someone take a look and tell me if this build is OK.

Intel Celeron G1620
MSI H61M-P20 (G3)
AMERA CASE PINK GIRLS MICRO ATX
Could you suggest also some memory and a video card although I already have a GeForce 8600GS, will that card be enough?

Thanks
 

A:Super cheap build for minecraft and youtube

childofthetao said:





Can someone take a look and tell me if this build is OK.

Intel Celeron G1620
MSI H61M-P20 (G3)
AMERA CASE PINK GIRLS MICRO ATX
Could you suggest also some memory and a video card although I already have a GeForce 8600GS, will that card be enough?

ThanksClick to expand...

Minecraft does not need much but it does need a decent CPU (At least a mediocre one) to do a decent FPS on most settings. In my experience changing the settings does not help as much until you get really low on the game (mostly its draw distance that helps) so I would suggest a slightly higher cpu and a low GPU like an R7 250 or and HD 7750.

Try something like this, Im keeping it cheap but you will appreciate minecraft more with a slightly better processor in the end.

Pentium Dual Core 3.0ghz

MSI H81

Corsair 4gb (2x2gb kit) 1600

PowerColor R7 250

XFX 450Watt 80+ Bronze

You can go lower on the GPU if you wish and the PSU selection on that site did not leave me much room but you can go lower. Otherwise the rest is a decent value budget minecraft build which could get a good playable game experience for anyone needing an inexpensive machine.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/super-cheap-build-for-minecraft-and-youtube.203666/
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I'm wondering whether I can overclock my ASUS R500VD notebook it has an INTEL sandy bridge core I5 3210M 2.50 GHz processor 4GB (max 8) of ram running puppy linux and windows xp home edition SP2 32 bit I have benchmarked it and ill email the results to anyone who replys and gives me their email and if you're wondering why I'm running windows xp read my article in the Alternative OS section of the forums called "If all else is too hard try puppy linux" bye
 

A:Can I overclock my asus notebook 17"

Nope sorry, the I5 3210M isn't OC enabled.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/can-i-overclock-my-asus-notebook-17.202019/
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Hi guys I m hoping I could get some advice on a new build I m doing soon It will primarily £1200 Build for MMO Gaming focus on MMOs and Wildstar and WoW absolutely must work on it although it should beast through them Would be nice if other stuff did too though please point out any incompatibilities or things you would do differently Thanks in advance Specs here Case PCS MAELSTROM T BLACK GAMING CASE Processor CPU Intel MMO Gaming Build for £1200 Core i Quad Core Processor i - k MMO Gaming Build for £1200 GHz MB Cache Motherboard Gigabyte Z X Gaming ATX LG USB SATA GBs XFIRE SLI Memory RAM GB KINGSTON HYPER-X BEAST DUAL-DDR MHz X M P x GB Graphics Card GB NVIDIA GEFORCE GTX - DVI HDMI DP - D Vision Ready st Hard Disk GB KINGSTON V SSD SATA Gb MB R MB W nd Hard Disk TB WD CAVIAR BLACK WD FZEX SATA Gb s MB CACHE rpm st DVD BLU-RAY Drive x DUAL LAYER DVD WRITER R RW RAM Memory Card Reader INTERNAL IN CARD READER XD MS CF SD etc x USB PORT Power Supply CORSAIR W RM SERIES MODULAR PLUS GOLD ULTRA QUIET Processor Cooling CoolerMaster Seidon M High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler Sound Card ONBOARD CHANNEL HIGH DEF AUDIO AS STANDARD Wireless Wired Networking WIRELESS N Mbps PCI CARD USB Options MIN x USB amp x USB PORTS BACK PANEL MIN FRONT PORTS Operating System Genuine Windows Bit - inc DVD amp Licence nbsp

A:MMO Gaming Build for £1200

A better ssd, use an air cooler like Noctua D14 or 15, phanteks,stronger psu for future sli or crossfire 750 or 850,something like a 450mbp dual band for wireless or something in the ac wireless class, 8gigs would serve you well but 16 is nice to have. Last but not least I7 for just gaming is really just paying far to much for just gaming. One of the newer I5s would serve just aswell and save you a dollar. While the build would run okay, Its price to performance is grossly off. You are building a overclocker that cant overclock.

http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Freaksamcker/saved/BTwkcf As far as ram wise, the fastest ram within your budget.( 8gigs) Make sure the air cooler will fit in your case.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/mmo-gaming-build-for-%C2%A31200.203569/
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Ok I m not the best and building computers and am very new at it My fresh build will boot but display absolutely nothing on the it like except everything Fresh display all powers at should build, no on monitor monitor by nothing I mean it won t even go to bios or turn the power light from standby to on This build will boot up all fans will run with no problems including cpu and video card fans and everything will shut Fresh build, everything powers like it should except no display at all on monitor off by holding down the power button properly Also I have not gotten any light or beep codes Here is what I have asus m a motherboard amd fx -core processor black edition asus gtx ti direct cu video card ddr gb Fresh build, everything powers like it should except no display at all on monitor x gb MHz dual corsair vengeance ram watt xion xio power supply sata tb barracuda hard drive dvd cd - writable drive cm storm scout case I have tried trouble shooting programs for the motherboard and video card with no results I have tried resetting the rtc ram I have double checked the power plugs are plugged in properly and making a proper circuit I have taken everything out except the motherboard cpu cpu fan and power supply and still gotten no beeps I have tried changing how the stupid speaker wire connects connecting incorrectly according to the manual and still no freaking beeps I have tried using hdmi and vga cords connected to my tv that supports pc s and a monitor nothing worked cord wise but my old pc worked like a dream when connected to them when talking to tech support for the motherboard they helped me check that it wasn t a grounding issue I have talked to all my pc buddies called tech support and no one can tell me anything i haven t tried or that has worked I have no idea what is wrong I need help I have spent the last two day all day working on this with no clue what is happening nbsp

A:Fresh build, everything powers like it should except no display at all on monitor

do you have the monitor cable plugged into the GPU or MOBO?
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/fresh-build-everything-powers-like-it-should-except-no-display-at-all-on-monitor.178244/
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Hi all,
I have an Acer Aspire Z5610 AIO computer.When I first bought it a few years back the @ and " were transposed.Hit the @ and " would come up and vice versa.At the time I contacted someone (can't remember who) and with their advice I was able to correct the problem.Due to age the PC was running v.slowly,painfully so.I decide to revert back to Factory default settings,unwisely it turns out,but the old problem of @ and " transposition is back.Has anyone out there got a solution to this problem.It is fixable as I have done it before,but how !!!
Thanks in advance,
Frank.
 

A:Keyboard @ and" are transposed

It's not really a problem particularly as you know which keys to press to get @ or ". This is one of the few differences between UK and US keyboard layouts. You can change the English language version from one of the options in Control Panel.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/keyboard-and-are-transposed.203000/
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Hi so for starters this is my rig AMD A - K Quadcore Gigabyte F A M D H rev motherboard X GB Corsair Gaming Memory DDR RAM PowerColor HD GB TB HDDs So anyway I ve noticed that my performance was pretty strangely bad with games these days I just haven t had much time to play but now it became stuck .924v at A8-5600k and 1400mhz terribly clear some games like Outlast and Dark Souls had low fps at times my friend s PC which has an AMD ghz dual core processor and a GT with GB RAM does far better he can run Outlast all A8-5600k stuck at 1400mhz and .924v very high with stable FPS I ve rocking it at medium and it still dips to fps Both of us were puzzled by this because HD is far superior to GT and the A - K can clearly be seen in benchmarks everywhere to outperform that processor of his significantly as well After doing a stress test of my A - k with prime or even AMD Overdrive torture tests either Overdrive or CPU-Z would display that the clock speed is only mhz and the voltage is or a bit more like x and it would just be stuck like that during the tests So it points to my processor not running like it should So maybe it s my A8-5600k stuck at 1400mhz and .924v board I ve disabled C APM cool n quiet set turbo to ghz in BIOS it s still does the same thing I ve even tried disabling turbo and overclocking with the BIOS to ghz or even ghz as well still stuck at mhz Game performance still weirdly bad What should I do nbsp

A:A8-5600k stuck at 1400mhz and .924v

Do you have the ability to disable the onboard graphics for the A8-5600K from within your Bios (or) change the graphics over to PCI-E only? Also, check the Windows Power Management and make sure that it is not limiting the maximum cpu percentage (or set to balanced or power saver modes - you want Performance mode). Not the only solutions, but try these first and see what happens.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/a8-5600k-stuck-at-1400mhz-and-924v.202942/
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Hey, I am wanting to make my first gaming computer and despite all my research and back checking, I still feel like something may be wrong, not to mention if possible I would like to save a bit more money since I am just above my budget of about $500. Below is a link to my build.

http://pcpartpicker.com/user/prince/saved/4Fbc

I am hoping to play mainly games like WoW, Arche Age, and mmos like that. Also I may occasionally play something more demanding like Skyrim or something. Any tips, and if possible money saves, let me know.
Thank You!!
 

A:Gaming Computer Build Check

Probably better to get rid of the GPU and just go with an AMD APU. Like A10-5800K
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/gaming-computer-build-check.202373/
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I think I've checked correctly if the power will be enough and I have plenty of space to fit everything.

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=wish_lists&wlcId=303296&action=wish_lists
 

A:Computer Build Check

Were you wanting all those items? Seemed to be some redundancies and over-kill. Regardless though, 10K has me drooling.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/computer-build-check.202477/
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I'm not sure if this the right forum since it's been upgraded. I am thinking of doing a new build of the AMD FM2+ and here is what I think that I want and I'm looking for any suggestions about this build in it's entirety. This is what I've picked at part pickers so far: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/oldguy55/saved/44ya , I'm not really a gamer, but I do a lot of video editing, converting, bluray/dvd recording and music cds. also keep in mind that I will probably be adding more hard drives to this build as my movie library is increasing.
 

A:Near Future New Build

Ok, so since you do a lot of video editing, I would make numerous changes:
1) I would go for an Intel platform rather than an AMD platform since Intel CPUs are dominant when it comes to video editing.
2) If you arent going to overclock the CPU much, I would tone down the cooler to something like a Hyper 212 Evo.
3) I would tone down the RAM to about 1600MHz since 2133MHz doesnt make much of a difference when video editing (or even gaming).
4) I would replace the Digital Black2 HDD/SSD combo with a pure SSD.
5) I would replace the AMD GPU with something more hefty and nVidia based. I say this because nVidia drivers are usually more consistent and nVidia GPUs are generally better for video editing. BUT, if you are working with programs such as Adobe CC, then I would stick with an AMD GPU (more powerful than a 250X) since Adobe products make use of OpenGL for the most part and AMD is dominant at that.
6) Case is your choice. I personally recommend Corsair cases.
7) The PSU can be toned down to a 750W (Corsair HX 750) possibly, but I wouldnt go any lower since you are hoping to add more HDDs.
8) I would find a Bluray reader and writer all in one rather than having 2.
9) There is really no advantage to having Windows 7 Ultimate over Professional or even Home Premium. Ultimate just really allows you to install language packs (there are some other features that arent really important).
10) You dont need a Wifi adapter as long as the motherboard supports Wifi, but it matters on the board. We can determine that once we figure out the specifics.
11) Keyboard looks fine. I personally recommend the Logitech Wireless Solar Keyboard K750 ($60) since you never have to replace the batteries and the keys are more tactile. But it is your choice.
12) That mouse is made for laptops, just so you are aware .

Sorry for the long rant, but I want to get you the best rig possible . I just need you to answer some questions first though, what programs do you use? How hardcore of a video editor are you (professional?)? Are the projects you work with in very high resolutions such as 4K? What is your price range for this machine? <--- this will help determine which CPU and GPU you can purchase (along with other parts).

I hope this helps.

-JC
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/near-future-new-build.201268/
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Hi all Up until very recently I have been using Scan XS for custom build workstations for our D designers in our London studio for Build Custom Rendering Unfortunately their customer service has fallen off a cliff in the last few months so I am looking at alternative options One of the biggest advantages with Scan was their prices relative to more established competitors and I m hoping Custom Build for Rendering to find a similarly competitive option I have used Mesh in the past but unfortunately they don t include Quadro graphics Custom Build for Rendering cards in any of their systems this is an essential as we work with Solidworks amp AutoCAD as much as we do ds Max I have built my own in the past but as this is a work machine we d prefer to be backed up by a professional warranty What I am considering at the moment is the HP Z but these use Xeon E - CPUs which according to Intel aren t recommended for rendering I m still happy to consider off-the-shelf systems but ideally I d like to get something along the lines of Windows Pro bit i k or newer nVidia Quadro K or better gb RAM Minimum quot IPS Monitor eg Dell U yr Warranty Under k Any suggestions would be appreciated Thanks in advance nbsp

A:Custom Build for Rendering

The Xeon E5-1650 that is in the HP Z420 is an aging processor. I would recommend something newer. I would take a look at the HP workstation site before making a decision through a 3rd party seller like ebuyer.com.

I would recommend looking at newer CPUs such as the ones found >>here<<.

One option is the HP Z420, but it gets quite pricey (~4000 USD not including a monitor (if I am not mistaken)). It has a beefy Xeon E5-1650 V2 inside along with a bunch of other goodies like a Quadro K4000 and a 512GB SSD.

It doesn't seem to me like many of the HP workstations have GPUs, so this is what I recommend: buy a nice HP workstation with a beefy new Xeon E5 6 core CPU (this will kick some mean *** in SolidWorks, AutoCad, and 3DS Max, trust me!) and buy a Quadro or FirePro GPU yourself. Make sure you check the specifications of the PSU first though to confirm that you can run a Quadro GPU on top of the other components. Also, you can easily get a SSD later if you dont want to pay extra for it in the HP workstation. That will run you like $300-500.

If the HP workstations dont work out (the pricing just doesnt workout in the end with the monitors and GPUs and such), then I would get off the shelf parts, but the problem with those is that it is hard to find components with extended warranties. If they do have long warranties, they will probably be expensive.

I hope this helps.

-JC
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/custom-build-for-rendering.202244/
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Hi I have an older PC which I gave to my mum It originally ran Vista but I bought and installed Windows Ultimate around weeks ago after it had been inactive for months It was running great but a couple of weeks ago it just started hanging for no real reason Also at startup it would say that the computer had not been shut down properly even if it had This was only when it was switched off at the wall not after checksum defaults loaded" replaced error battery after - "cmos a restart or when the PC was left plugged in and switched on She only "cmos checksum error - defaults loaded" after battery replaced uses the PC to look at You Tube and some webcams from her grandkids and that s it she s not very computer literate Initially I left Windows repair to run overnight but when I looked at it the following morning it was still in the repair screen so I assume it had hung I spoke to a local repair shop and they suggested I test the RAM test the hard drive and replace the CMOS battery The RAM and hard drive checks went without any errors and after I replaced the battery the hanging stopped I played with the computer all evening and shut it down as normal and switched it off at the wall Next day I thought I would start it up just to check it and I was faced with a quot cmos checksum error - defaults loaded quot message I thought that was strange but maybe the battery was dead so I swapped it over with one from my perfectly working desktop to try it out and my desktop worked fine but after shutting down my mum s one it had the same problem when power was pulled So battery was ruled out Incidentally I will say that I reset the BIOS date and time every time I was faced with the error following up with a save and exit It worked fine until I unplugged the computer I then moved on to the BIOS and set it back to default and the same again After this opened the case and used the jumpers to reset the BIOS to default again but no difference My mum will not leave it switched on at the wall constantly in case it self-combusts same with her washing machine TV lamps etc otherwise I would just do that and ignore it Is there anything else someone can suggest that I try System Shop bought by Mesh Motherboard is an ASUS PSN-E SLI gb Ram - samsung gb hard drive - ASUS Thanks for any help nbsp

A:"cmos checksum error - defaults loaded" after battery replaced

I must add that the PC is the same as when I bought it new from the shop, except for adding a Creative Labs sound card (approx 2012) and installing Windows 7 (around 6 weeks ago). All Windows updates are downloaded and installed.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/cmos-checksum-error-defaults-loaded-after-battery-replaced.201304/
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My dell 1905fp finally crashed after a lot of years. I'm not a gamer, but I was very happy with that monitor.

Of course they no longer make it, and I understand refurbished monitors of this type are not necessarily a good option.

I can't seem to find reviews or comparisons which point the way to other similar monitors. I'm retired and just can't afford the $600 and way up price of what I've seen so far.

I just need a basic monitor with VGA and DVI, but would like the screen performance to be decent, incl for watching movies etc.

Any recommendations, and where to get a reasonable price? Again, don't want a wide screen.

Thanks much!
 

A:Reasonably priced 19" or 20" monitor, not wide-screen?

Nothing wrong with buying refurbs. They may have a few blemishes in the frame but nothing serious to keep them from functioning. I've bought a few myself and have had no issues with them. Although the monitors I bought were 20" widescreens that averaged $120 or less. For what you need/want, I wouldn't spend more than $150.

I know you said no widescreen, but movies do view better on widescreen.

http://www.amazon.com/Dell-UltraSharp-1905FP-Rotating-Landscape/dp/B00091R6KC - less than $100
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/reasonably-priced-19-or-20-monitor-not-wide-screen.201641/
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Hi,

All of a sudden my build-in webcam is no longer recognised. I have upgraded my OS from windows 7, to windows 8, to windows 8.1, but that was a while ago and my webcam has worked in the mean time.

Has anyone had similar problems or does someone have a (possible) solution? All ideas are welcome, since I need my webcam for videoconferences.
 

A:Asus N53SV build-in webcam problem

It could be compatibility problem,,, try to install webcam for windows 8.1
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/asus-n53sv-build-in-webcam-problem.201663/
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I have networked PCs before many times successfully so this is not my first time trying to network PCs in a home environment Though I m wondering if Windows is part of the problem I would have thought that for sure until one of the name credentials bad password? user with unknown even correct failure: or "Logon new laptops running W would not connect to any of the other three PCs Laptops running W Yet these other three W PCs Laptops CAN connect to this laptop Then it gets a little more "Logon failure: unknown user name or bad password? even with correct credentials interesting this same laptop that couldn t connect to those three W PCs Laptops CAN connect to a Windows desktop and a XP Laptop and those two can also connect back to it without issue It s almost like my network is divided in half and only half can talk to each other But then when I thought it couldn t get any more interesting I realized the first three W PCs Laptops can talk to the others it s just that the others W Laptop W Desktop XP Laptop can t talk back to them without getting the error quot Logon failure unknown user name or bad password even though the username and password are correct I don t fully understand this error because on the surface it s just WRONG My username and password are correct but it appears something somewhere is interfering or hijacking the authentication process Three of the computers laptops are brand new just purchased last week and setup this week The HostPC is also fairly new just purchased last month I am not using a HomeGroup and have removed all computers that were part of a HomeGroup I have enabled file sharing and network discovery and enabled Use user accounts and passwords to connect to other computers on all PCs I have DSL and am using the wireless modem provided by my ISP which has router functionality built into it It is a Sagemcom Model F ST N All computers are connected wirelessly Time is correct on all PCs I cannot use Group Policy since they re all Standard or Home edition DHCP is enabled and all computers are on the same subnet using the x range of ip addresses The six computers are as follows I figured this may make is easier to visualize the layout HostPC HP Desktop W PC Name DrsBlend U N DrsBlend p w not showing my real password PC HP Laptop W PC Name DrsBlend- U N DrsBlend P W PC HP Laptop W PC Name DrsBlend- U N DrsBlend P W PC HP Laptop W PC Name DrsBlend- U N DrsBlend P W PC HP Desktop W SP PC Name DrsBlend- U N DrsBlend P W PC Dell Laptop XP SP PC Name DrsBlend- U N DrsBlend P W Every PC stated above has the same user name and password and is logged-in with the username DrsBlend and the password The quot Logon failure unknown user name or bad password happens when trying to access HostPC PC or PC from PC PC or PC The HostPC can see and connect to all the PCs but only PC and PC can talk back or access the HostPC It s like the HostPC and PC and PC are in their own little clique and can talk back and forth to each other Those three PCs can also talk to PC PC and PC as well but PC PC and PC cannot talk back to them HostPC PC PC Profile corruption I would have entertained that thought but the fact the first three PCs can access and talk to one another kind of defeats that idea and the fact the PCs were just recently setup Firewall Disabled and disabled TrendMicro with no change With them on off the first three PCs can still talk to each other and the rest of the PCs Anyone have any additional suggestions nbsp

A:"Logon failure: unknown user name or bad password” even with correct credentials

I experienced a similar problem when I was trying to network my 8.1 machine the host network. As you say the host PC can see and connect to all of the machines, but not the other way around. Not sure if it is the same in your situation but I found that Microsoft's idea of network sharing on the Windows 8 class of OS differs greatly from previous OS's in that you can connect to it from an external host, but when trying to do the other way around it doesn't "see" the PC in question due to differing network sharing protocols included in the OS.

Anyone feel free to correct me if I am wrong, I am speaking only from what happened with my network.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/logon-failure-unknown-user-name-or-bad-password%E2%80%9D-even-with-correct-credentials.201313/
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So newegg is offering the Acer 29" B6 B296CLbmlidprz IPS monitor for about 350. Seems like a pretty good deal but I can't find many reviews on it. I was wondering if anybody had any experience with this monitor and/or if you guys have better options for someone who is looking for an IPS monitor below 400 bucks. I want to game with it as well as do some 3d modeling and photoshop work. So I need reasonable response time for gaming. I was also looking at the HP ZR2440w and was gonna get that until I saw this deal on newegg for a larger monitor. 24" models are fine but if there are good deals on some 27" inch ones then I would be interested in those as well. Any suggestions? Thanks.
 

A:Question on Acer 29" monitor and other monitors

Heres the link for that monitor.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA24G1GC2421
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/question-on-acer-29-monitor-and-other-monitors.201698/
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I tried out DXtory2.0 to record Minecraft and downloaded the XVid codec to speed things up. But though the game runs fast (150fps when not recording, 60-80 when I am) the video comes out choppy when I watch later. The write speed on the folder I allocated to put the recorded videos in varies from 20-60 mB/s. I tried dedicating more RAM to Minecraft, setting priority of java high, setting priority of DXtory high, using a USB readyboost, etc. Any ideas as to why this may be?

Also if it helps, sometimes when I'm playing Minecraft with detailed settings, like rendering far and enabling smooth lighting, etc, it becomes choppy and lags for like half a second, before returning to its original 100+ FPS. When I am actually recording, the FPS of the video recorded is far, far slower (10-20FPS) while the game was running at 40-100 when it was being recorded.

My OS is Windows XP.
Memory: 2046MB RAM
Processor: Q8300 @ 2.50 GHz
Graphics Card: ATI Radeon HD 4850

I've spent ages trying to figure this out. It's really frustrating, but currently doing a malware scan. Thanks
 

A:Major FPS drop while recording, even with fast game

Recording gameplay while playing a game on the same machine is very taxing in general especially seeing as how mincraft is very CPU intensive. Your running on an old Q8300 and the program your using is probably taxing the machine to much and that is causing the skips.

You may want to try a program like Fraps that can limit the frame rates unless the program your using has that option. Many online youtubers or such limit the recording frame rate to 30FPS on lower machines and 60 on upper machines.

Thats probably what your going to have to do.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/major-fps-drop-while-recording-even-with-fast-game.201269/
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My old HP computer fried, but so far the power supply (Corsair 650W) and my memory 8GB and optical DVD burner/drive are pretty much the only thing that survived, lol. So I need a new processor, mobo, graphics card, mid case, and cooler. I have $400.00 as of right now to spend, but will have maybe more from time to time, this will take me a-while depending on the prices of the parts needed to complete my gaming pc. The games that I usually play are BF4, Titanfall, Arma III, Company of Heroes II, and Total War Rome II. For those asking what type of (Mobo: FOXCONN ALOE 1.01), (Video Card: ATI Radeon HD 5850 1GB), and (CPU: 2.80 gigahertz AMD Phenom II X4 925) I had. Thanks for taking the time to read my post and cry of help .
 

A:New PC build help :D

What resolution do you play at? I think you'll need more than 400$ if you want to play those games with a "gaming" pc.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/new-pc-build-help-d.201067/
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I just got new SSD - Transcend 128GB. Installed Windows. When I cold boot my PC -- from a shut off state -- I get this message before Windows loads: "Reboot and select proper boot device or insert boot media in selected boot device and press a key."

However, if I press Ctrl+Alt+Delete and reboot I come into Windows.

If I enter BIOS from cold boot, it does not detect my SSD. After rebooting it detects my SSD. Seems like the SSD is slow at firing up?

I have run chkdsk and memory test without any errors.

My motherboard is the MSI Z87-G55.
 

A:"Reboot and select proper boot device"

Just installed newest BIOS, it didn't help.

When I go into Board Explorer in BIOS it says SATA port 1 is empty. After reboot it says the same port is occupied by my SSD.

Update: Plugged in another hard drive (non-SSD). Same rules apply to it. On cold boot, none of the drives are detected. After reboot, both drives are detected. I used a non-SSD as system drive before this, worked perfectly.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/reboot-and-select-proper-boot-device.200351/
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I have recently built a new PC and am having some issues, I am getting power to all of my components but no power to any of my peripherals (keyboard, mouse & monitor) my monitor is in power saving mode.

I have done the following steps to try and resolve the problem:

- Upgrade from a 500w to 750w PSU
- Replace CPU as there was a slightly bent pin.
- Replace motherboard.
- Reset the CMOS.
- Clean the RAM sticks and put back in
- Boot with 1 RAM stick.
- Tried using DVI, VGA & HDMI cables to connect to monitor.

Also, please note my motherboard does not have a VGA or DVI port so I am unable to test if it is the graphics card.

None of these steps worked, does anyone have any idea what may be causing this issue?

Your help would be much appreciated.

Thanks!
 

A:Peripherals not powering up on new build PC

Need more info on what hardware you are using. Make and Model of: Motherboard, CPU, RAM, Video Card, PSU, etc.
It's easier to troubleshoot with this info.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/peripherals-not-powering-up-on-new-build-pc.199876/
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Recently my network storage device has stopped me from accessing folders with the exception of music. All my pictures for the last 11 years are on it and not backed up anywhere else. Cannot find manual and have done reset but cannot remember URL to setup or admin username and password. Doesn't seem to be online and Edge is giving me no help whatsoever.
 

A:Edge DiskGo 3.5" network harddrive

Ouch if this is a NAS Device or has an IP you can use an app called FIng for your mobile device to find its ip so you can put it in the browser and get to the gui site. If you cant try fing you can use angry ip scanner for winwdows to find its ip.

If you want to try and recover files I would try recuva to obtain any data that has been lost. I am not sure if it is lost or just changed in the mapping.

As most guys will tell you here its very good idea to have three forms of back up. Local, external and online. If you don t know how to use fing or any of the software I duscusses please let me know. I will have links to the downloads below. Goodluck.

http://angryip.org/w/Download
For Fing just type in Fing in either google play or Itunes.
For Recuva: http://www.piriform.com/recuva/download/standard
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/edge-diskgo-3-5-network-harddrive.200015/
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My Hp pavilliin g7 series laptop running windows 7 home starts up with white screen and no beeps or sounds . Started freezing on Hp logo screen last week only sometimes. Id turn off and it would work on second try. About a year and a half ago I used laptop to preview windows 8. And after I reinstalled windows 7 it has been acting funny. Ie freezing and louder fan noise. I did recently update the bios and a pci device driver that never installed. But now it has white screen this morning. I shut off and powered up and still white.
I took off battery and pressed power for 10 sec plugged back in and still white. Still no noise.
Any ideas?
 

A:HP G7 17" screen starts up white and stays white

Try attaching an external monitor and notice what it displays...
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/hp-g7-17-screen-starts-up-white-and-stays-white.199331/
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Operating System Windows Home Premium A few months ago I had purchased an INSTEN Composite AV Cable for Sony PlayStation and INSTEN mm Stereo to RCA Cable M F Inch Cm Black With these I connected the sound from my PlayStation through the Audio In jack on my computer This allowed for an audio transfer from PlayStation into computer and out the Speaker Jack in the back This has worked fine until February rd On February nd I had changed my W power supply for a W power supply Problem "In Audio Line" That day everything worked perfectly however the next day I heard a "In Line" Audio Problem humming and the sound was messed up I found out the cause was the power supply I changed out the new power supply for my old one Now my audio "In Line" Audio Problem is messed up I hear what sounds like an echo in the sound If I have the speaker volume set to I can hear the sound fine but only in the left speaker Any higher I hear interference and it sounds like it is being muffled The other problem is I can t play any music or sound without the Stereo Cable being plugged in Also the port is being labled as In Line in my Realtek HD Audio Manager If there is anything that I need to add let me know nbsp

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/in-line-audio-problem.199925/
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Yes yet another topic seemingly on one that has been asked many times before But this is definitely different The PC Windows enterprise an mdg vxi with dual NICs one is running to science equipment with a static ip - works fine the other connects to the company network well it s supposed to It s not actually on the domain yet because the network path can never be found because of this DNS issue The Issue I can ping any site by it s IP but never by its hostname I cannot load Yet another ping but title hostname" - different "can't any sites though the browser by using the IP the browsers IE lt -- it s our standard browser right now eww Yet another "can't ping hostname" title - but different and firefox although that s not really supposed to be installed cannot load anything According to windows the card is fully connected with internet access We have tried trying different Yet another "can't ping hostname" title - but different NICs as the Yet another "can't ping hostname" title - but different secondary ones removing the secondary and using only the onboard to connect externally giving it a static IP and entering the DNS servers - we ve tried our dns servers as well as googles public ones all cmd commands that I could think of - nbtstat ipconfig flush and reg DNS fixing the host file deleting the TCP IP stack plugged in a laptop just to make sure the port was okay and everything worked I ve pretty much done anything I can think of and anything I ve read online I m sure other things were tried I just can t remember everything I ve done or my team as done as we ve been working on this for over a week on and off I am cisco certified and took network engineering in school I even called in my networking brain trust back home and we couldn t figure this out I m thinking it s something the science company that came in to set up the machine did and I am hoping it doesn t have to be re imaged as they would have to be called back in to setup the machines again Anyone that solves this will be my hero forever nbsp

A:Yet another "can't ping hostname" title - but different

Any luck with this issue?
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/yet-another-cant-ping-hostname-title-but-different.163897/
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Hi,

My wife is pestering me to buy her a 10" tablet, which she'll use for surfing, watching videos, etc, and I wondered if anyone can please help me decide a good one for her. I never really delved into tablets before, myself being more of a desktop PC person. I decided to get her something Android based because it iPad seems to have its limitations.

What should I look out for when choosing a tablet? What version of Android, processor, CPU, RAM, storage capacity and screen resolution should I be looking for, do they all take SD cards or a means of data transfer, etc. She also wants the option to attach a keyboard to it. With regard to internal storage, I heard it's partitioned on some models so apps can only be installed in one partition and the other is for photos, documents, videos, media, etc; what minimum partiton size should we be looking at for installing apps nowadays. Can anyone recommend any models we should be considering?

Thanks.
 

A:What 10" tablet for my missus?

To make this simple. What Operating System you have on your PC or your wife PC. Should stick to what you have so you already know how to use it on the tablet.

Windows Users get Windows tablet
Surface RT, Pro, 2nd Gen (remember these cost more)
DELL has one for $299 8-inch. You wanted a 10-inch.

Now some Windows users have Android tablets because at the time there was much of choice even though Windows XP Tablet and Windows 7 Tablet options where available. Android tablets were used more.

If your both are on MAC apple get the iPAD 9.7-inch 4:3 ratio tablet. They do have 7-inch again 4:3 ratio tablet.

I have one Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit dual core 9.7-inch 4:3 ratio tablet. I use the touch pen with mine it's the same one for the iPad. Surface tablets uses digitize pen with 2 AAA batters inside.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/what-10-tablet-for-my-missus.199527/
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I have an external hard disk of Samsung 650GB which got damaged when I was transferring some files to my pc through it. Now when I connect to any PC or Laptop it shows the safely remove icon but there is no letter assigned to it and also doesn't show up in My Computer though it can be seen in Disk Management.

I tried Mini Tool Partition Wizard but when I create a new partition it stops at 90%. I tried wiping out the partition but to no avail.

Is there any solution for it??? Please help.
 

A:Creating A New Partition Or Wiping A Partition On External Hard Disk Stuck

I would check the manufacturers site for a windows utility to low level format it. If you cannot find a utility to do that on manufacturer's site, then try this: http://hddguru.com/software/HDD-LLF-Low-Level-Format-Tool/ to wipe the drive. WARNING!! this will destroy all data on the selected hard drive!! be very careful when selecting a drive to wipe that you don't inadvertently select the wrong disk. After a low level format, unplug the drive, plug back in, windows should detect as a new, virgin, drive and it'll prompt you to format it. Format it and hopefully everything will be fine from here on out for you.

Post back, Hope this helps!!
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/creating-a-new-partition-or-wiping-a-partition-on-external-hard-disk-stuck.198811/
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Hi all,

I want to build the new gaming computer with average specification to play the games like GTA, Battelfield, Warcraft etc. my buget is around 1000$.. all suggetions are welcomed.....
 

A:Build a Gaming Computer

Do you have a machine or configuration, that you are currently looking at?
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/build-a-gaming-computer.199403/
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Hey guys I have couple of bucks I need to spend on my PC right now
I am looking for a mid range video ed/ gaming setup.
here is my specs currently.
http://pastebin.com/KVKT278U
Any help is appreciated

Regards
Paulie
 

A:PC build: What else do I need?

What's your budget? You're gonna need a whole new rig, including OS.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/pc-build-what-else-do-i-need.199342/
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Well, I just put my pc together and I turned it on, it starts out fine but then to power supply fan turns off and the power supply and the system shuts off after about 3 seconds
 

A:PC Build Trouble

Can you give a little more detail, about what you are building and how you went about putting it together. A description of all your parts and a list of all the power connections would be a good start.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/pc-build-trouble.199282/
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Is anyone aware of a way to do a full reset of the Nvidia control panel settings? I can't switch the color display modes for the external monitor if I do not have one plugged in, so this becomes a catch-22
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/format-not-supported-plight-of-rgb-and-ycbcr444.199275/
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A:First gaming PC build

Good choices.
Depending on the price of that TX650 I'd recommend the Rosewill Capstone 550/m or Seasonic g series 550.
Also it'd be nice to find a kit of 1866 RAM, which you can probably find at a similar price if you're lucky and there's some sales.
Also depending on the price you can probably get a Samsung EVO 250gb for a little cheaper.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/first-gaming-pc-build.198953/
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I'm looking to upgrade from my 24" 1920x1200. I tried to play games on my 55" TV and it just didn't feel right. I play mostly FPS like BF4
 

A:Does anyone here game on a 30" 2560x1600 monitor

I game on a 100Hz+ 27in 2560x1440 Qnix QX2710. The extra pixels and the higher framerates are excellent for FPS gaming, and for the price you can't get much better. A quick google will show up lots of useful threads if you're interested.

I wouldn't get a 30in 2560x1600 monitor just for gaming, they are very expensive and more aimed towards graphics/design professionals rather than gamers. Things you're paying a premium for such as a wide gamut won't be useful and indeed might be detrimental as a gaming and general use monitor.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/does-anyone-here-game-on-a-30-2560x1600-monitor.198467/
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Hey,
I woke up on May 10th 2013 & when it started up my laptop I saw this.




I was a bit scared, but I decided to run the following programs:
Mbam (AV)
DSKCHK
Disk cleanup
Disk defragmenter
Scan disk (SCR-scanow)
AVG tuneup
AVG (AV)
MSE (AV)
Restore point.
I do not know what happened, but I have posted on several other forums, but no answer.
Thanks,
Danawesome.
 

A:Repeated "bad image" error (think it's something to do w/laptop)

Did you fix this?
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/repeated-bad-image-error-think-its-something-to-do-w-laptop.198178/
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im on a 1500 dollar budget and plan on doing alot of video editing using visual effects
 

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Hi guys I ve spent today building a pc for myself However on pressing the on button there s no reaction at all My machine specs are M B - Gigabyte GA- A-UD Processor - AMD RAM - Corsair Gb DDR Case - Zalman Z Graphics card - Gigabyte HD PSU - Corsair CX M W Wi-fi card also installed but can t remember the name and seem to have temporarily lost the box in a pile of packaging So far I ve checked the CPU and motherboard power sockets the wall plug sockets and the power cord to my PSU I ve also checked the connections between my case and the motherboard and these all appear to be correct on power build PC doesn't As part of this final point I switched the power on LED with the power button they both originate from the same location so thought they may be mixed up Anyhows I got a solid LED which suggests to me that a there s power running through the switch circuit and b the pc isn t booting when told to as a PC build doesn't power on solid LED would indicate PC build doesn't power on circuit completion which would be the equivalent of holding in the on button If anybody could shed any light on where to go next I d be eternally grateful currently searching the house for a paperclip to test the PSU nbsp

A:PC build doesn't power on

Does the CPU and case fans move at all, when pressing the power button?
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/pc-build-doesnt-power-on.198098/
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Hi - I am posting pics of the min-itx computer I made within a clear very small plexi-glas case I was motivated to do this after reading abt tiny, clear mini-itx plexi-glas of build Pics the mini-itx form factor including reading that it basically can do what a full ATX format MB could do with some limits on RAM slots and vid cards and reading abt the low-power w tdp intel chips with native video that were Pics of mini-itx tiny, clear plexi-glas build a really cool fit between low power low heat atom processors and the usual intel or amd desktop CPUs the low power makes it easier to have adequate cooling it had to have a max power demand level that would allow a laptop-type power supply with heat sink in the power cable and not in the computer case --the micro-psu atx power supplies plus appropriate laptop-type power cord are a great set-up to allow this I am fascinated by the atoms but still not knowledgeable enough or excited enough to figure out my own build based on an atom I told my year old son that we would make a computer together he likes looking at lego dots com and other kid stuff It would be small since it was just for a boy it would be cool since we like things to be cool for items that might be visually cool to shop for we shopped the case was found on ebay I though some aggressive cool heat sinks on ram would fit per my calculations but I was wrong I ordered g-skill ram with cool heat sinks but had to remove the heat sinks to fit the case temps are fine that was abt it for what would look cool the rest - not much - hard drive and cpu cooler - just had to fit video was not a big concern these intel chips have onboard and these MBs know it and we are not intense gamers the future - maybe not so much I hope he is not living in my basement in years playing rpg specs in next post nbsp

A:Pics of mini-itx tiny, clear plexi-glas build

Specs.
intel g630t. a great price point with the performance we need for everything, at low power - 35w - our needs do not include rpg etc but includes web-browsing, transfer of pics from digital camera to hard drive, some MS Office stuff. ----stock cooler is very low profile, and fits.

4 gb gskill ram.

win7 home 64bit.

Kingston 120 gb hd --repurposed from some other comp I had done.

repurposed 40mm fan as case fan.

usb 150mb/sec transponder -- from Frys for $10.

Oh- big deal - MB is Intel mini-itx dh61dl. you can build a typical atx computer with this, but with limits - the only card slots are 1 (one) mini pci-e and pci-express.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/pics-of-mini-itx-tiny-clear-plexi-glas-build.198033/
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Hi guys I m looking to build myself a new PC suitable I have particular games I d like to run with PC Build Advice decent performance at reasonably high settings - at the moment that s FSX Rome TW and Football Manager yeah that one s not resource heavy but it s on my list - but would like it to be future-proof I already PC Build Advice have a monitor and mouse but everything else needs buying Considering that with the budget I have I ve come up with the following set-up Case - Bitfenix Merc Alpha Gaming Case CPU - AMD FX -core FX GHz Mb cache RAM - Corsair Gb DDR MHz PSU - W Coolermaster B Motherboard - ASUS M A Motherboard Graphics - Gb AMD MSI HD OC PCI-E HDD - Western Digital TB DVD-RW - Liteon x player Cooling - Standard AMD processor cooling fan case has a fan at the rear planning on buying four more fans and adding two to the front one to the top and one to the bottom of the case Speakers - Logitech ZS O S - Windows -bit If anyone can take a quick scan through and let me know if I ve missed something glaringly obvious that would be great Or if there is anything I can PC Build Advice substitute that would give better performance for a similar price that would be great I think everything is compatible I ll double and triple-check this before buying so I m not looking for any in-depth analysis but any guidance would be great Thanks nbsp

A:PC Build Advice

Good Selection, but might I make a few alterations for you to consider because you have a £800. We maybe able to squeeze a bit more out of this build, ill go off amazon.uk for the pricing:

Gigabyte Z87-HD3 79.99
i5 4670k 174.50
Corsair 750watt Bronze 68.98
Seagate Barracuda 7200RPM 1tb 49.99
Cooler Master Hyper212 Evo CPU Cooler 23.99
NZXT Phantom 410 mid tower 84.95
Corsair Vengeance 8gb 2x4gb 1600 65.76
Liton DvD Drive 13.15
R9 280X Gigabyte 230.47
Logitech Z323 Speakers 32.99 (Could not find the speakers you listed so went for what I thought might be close.

Thats just a little advice to maxise your build to the budget, this will provide much more power overall and future proof you for quite some time. Hope this help!
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/pc-build-advice.197960/
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Hi this is my first time attempting to build my own gaming PC from scratch with a budget hopefully falling within a total of USD - After researching a few of the parts for the past few days I ve Gaming PC build please advise come up with a rough idea of what I want in the PC as listed below PCPartPicker part list http pcpartpicker com p bzk Price breakdown by merchant http pcpartpicker com p bzk by merchant Benchmarks http pcpartpicker com p Gaming PC build please advise bzk benchmarks CPU Intel Core i - K GHz Quad-Core Processor Newegg CPU Cooler Cooler Master Hyper EVO CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler Newegg Motherboard ASRock Z Extreme ATX LGA Motherboard Newegg Memory Corsair Vengeance Pro GB x GB DDR - Memory Newegg Storage Samsung EVO GB quot Solid State Disk Newegg Storage Western Digital Caviar Black TB quot RPM Internal Hard Drive Newegg Video Card Asus Radeon R X GB Video Card Newegg Wireless Network Adapter Rosewill RNX-N UBE b g n USB Wi-Fi Adapter Newegg Case Corsair R ATX Mid Tower Case Newegg Power Supply Corsair Professional W Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply Newegg Optical Drive Asus DRW- B ST BLK B AS DVD CD Writer Newegg Operating System Microsoft Windows Home Premium SP OEM -bit Newegg Total Prices include shipping taxes and discounts when available COMMENTS ON PART LISTNG CPU I chose the K as I am open to overclocking However still deciding if I should just go with the new Haswell since I ve read that overclocking doesn t really show results for a gaming rig not sure if I m confident enough of overclocking Motherboard Many builds I ve seen that use the K utilize this motherboard so I guess it goes pretty well with the Ivy Bridge Storage SSD for installing of the Windows OS and the HDD for installation of games and the like Video Card My nd choice as of the moment Open to possible SLI Crossfire configurations but unsure of which graphic cards are worth dual-pairing right now VERY open to suggestions and opinions on this Main Gaming PC build please advise choice is the new SAPPHIRE R X GB TOXIC Edition but currently not available in my country Hopefully it ll be released over the course of this month Case Read good reviews about this case Ideally a Mid Tower other considerations are -NZXT Phantom Black ATX Mid Tower Case Newegg -Cooler Master Storm Enforcer ATX Mid Tower Case Newegg Power Supply Enough for possible overclocking Any feedback and suggestions greatly appreciated Like I ve said I m new to building a gaming rig so I am willing to put careful thought into any opinions put forward nbsp

A:Gaming PC build please advise

Hi, this is my first time attempting to build my own gaming PC from scratch with a budget hopefully falling within a total of USD$1200-$1500. After researching a few of the parts for the past few days, I've come up with a rough idea of what I want in the PC as listed below.

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/22bzk
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/22bzk/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/22bzk/benchmarks/

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Newegg)

CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($35.98 @ Newegg)

Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Newegg)

Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($92.99 @ Newegg)

Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($99.99 @ Newegg)

Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($89.99 @ Newegg)

Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 280X 3GB Video Card ($316.13 @ Newegg)

Wireless Network Adapter: Rosewill RNX-N180UBE 802.11b/g/n USB 2.0 Wi-Fi Adapter ($17.99 @ Newegg)

Case: Corsair 400R ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Newegg)

Power Supply: Corsair Professional 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)

Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($24.98 @ Newegg)

Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($99.99 @ Newegg)

Total: $1283.00 (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)

COMMENTS ON PART LISTNG
CPU
I chose the 3570K as I am open to overclocking. However, still deciding if I should just go with the new Haswell 4670 since I've read that overclocking doesn't really show results for a gaming rig + not sure if I'm confident enough of overclocking.

Motherboard
Many builds I've seen that use the 3570K utilize this motherboard so I guess it goes pretty well with the Ivy Bridge.

Storage
SSD for installing of the Windows 7 OS and the HDD for installation of games and the like.

Video Card
My 2nd choice as of the moment. Open to possible SLI/Crossfire configurations but unsure of which graphic cards are worth dual-pairing right now. VERY open to suggestions and opinions on this. Main choice is the new SAPPHIRE R9 280X 3GB TOXIC Edition but currently not available in my country. Hopefully it'll be released over the course of this month.

Case
Read good reviews about this case. Ideally a Mid Tower, other considerations are :
-NZXT Phantom 410 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($105.98 @ Newegg)
-Cooler Master Storm Enforcer ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Newegg)

Power Supply
Enough for possible overclocking?

Any feedback and suggestions greatly appreciated. Like I've said I'm new to building a gaming rig so I am willing to put careful thought into any opinions put forward.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/gaming-pc-build-please-advise.197868/
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Hello. I've got a basic problem I guess: I messed up with the Realtek microphone settings and selected "Set Default Device". I tried to fix it but I kinda destroyed my mic. - friends tell me they can hear me like I'm closer to them and they hear me worse than before. I just need to unset the Set Default Device thingy but I don't really know how.. any idea?
 

A:Realtek Microphone "Set Default Device"

Try doing a system restore to a previous time in which this was working correctly.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/realtek-microphone-set-default-device.197750/
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As this is my first custom build PC I would like to confirm that these components are from the cheapest sources and are all compatible with each other I am a PC building noob and I am following a guide http www pcmech com byopc step- -materials-required Is this guide up to date and usable I play source games and I want to be able to record sometimes and get at least fps on most games the graphics quality must be around med-high My components please tell me if I can get it cheaper somewhere else and if they aren t compatible what do I need instead I am building a gaming rig as cheaply as possible without getting fps on every game like I do on my GHz laptop with gb of ram build first PC My custom Case http www amazon co uk Aerocool-Strike-X-Toolless-Tower-Gaming dp B NA A ref sr s computers amp ie UTF amp qid amp sr - amp keywords pc cases Price OS http www ebay co uk itm Microsoft-Windows- -Home-Premium-Oem- -Bit-SP -Operating-System- -Bit- trksid p m amp trkparms algo SIC amp its I amp itu UCI BIA BUA BFICS BUFI My first custom build PC amp otn amp pmod amp ps Price Motherboard http www amazon co uk P Z -V-Motherboard-CrossFireX-Intelligent-Processors dp B KZQE Q ref sr s computers amp ie UTF amp qid amp sr - amp keywords atx motherboard Price CPU http www amazon co uk Intel-Graphics-BX I -Generation-Technology dp My first custom build PC B CV E WK ref sr ie UTF amp qid amp sr - amp keywords Intel Core i - Price RAM http www amazon co uk Corsair-CML rmance dp B E M TU ref cm cr pr product top Price PSU http www ebuyer com -alpine-ii- w-b-white-psu-with- mm-blue-fan-alpine-ii- w-blue Price Keyboard My first custom build PC and Mouse I have a decent mouse Razer DeathAdder so I just need a cheap keyboard http www amazon co uk Octigen-JK- amp sr - amp keywords keyboard productDetails Price Graphics Card http www dabs com products gigabyte-geforce-gtx- -ti- mhz- gb-pci-express- - -hdmi- BP html q Nvidia GeForce GTX Ti amp src Price Thermal paste for CPU http www digitaldevicesonline co uk cooler-master-thermal-grease html Price Monitor I may not need a monitor I might be able to use an old one but if someone can find a small monitor VERY cheaply it would be greatly appreciated http www currys co uk gbuk comput s- -led-backlit-monitor- -pdt html Price Hard Drive http www amazon co uk Western-Digital- GB- RPM-Internal dp B A M ref sr s computers amp ie UTF amp qid amp sr - amp keywords gb hard drive Price DVD Drive http www amazon co uk LiteOn-IHAS - -AllWrite-Height-Internal dp B B SJZQW ref sr s computers amp ie UTF amp qid amp sr - amp keywords Internal DVD-RW Price CPU Cooler http www scan co uk products intel-reference-s -aluminum-copper-base-heat-sink-fan-oem Sound Card I m not too bothered about sound so I went for a cheap one but it needs to be able to play game sounds atleast to an OK standard http www ebuyer com -xenta- -channel-pci-soundcard-l- - c Price Not including monitor it totals around I need to get it cheaper and if I can I will get like a gb ram kit and wait till I have more cash and get the gb ram kit if I need to but I would mainly like to know if I can get my ideal cheaper else where and for things like the RAM I just want gb tell me if I can get a cheaper gb RAM kit for example I appreciate this is a lot of things to go through but I really would appreciate and I heard the TechSpot community is the best around and I m sure you will exceed my expectations Note I AM A COMPLETE NOOB I may have made a huge mistake so don t get angry and please spare me too much technical language nbsp

A:My first custom build PC

As this is my first custom build PC, I would like to confirm that these components are from the cheapest sources and are all compatible with each other.
I am a PC building noob and I am following a guide (http://www.pcmech.com/byopc/step-1-materials-required/) Is this guide up to date and usable?
I play source games and I want to be able to record sometimes and get at least 30 fps on most games, the graphics quality must be around med-high.
My components; please tell me if I can get it cheaper somewhere else, and if they aren't compatible what do I need instead? I am building a gaming rig as cheaply as possible without getting 4fps on every game like I do on my 1.8 GHz laptop with 3gb of ram...
Case: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Aerocool-Strike-X-Toolless-Tower-Gaming/dp/B00606NA0A/ref=sr_1_4?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1375030634&sr=1-4&keywords=pc cases
Price: £53
OS: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Microsoft-Windows-7-Home-Premium-Oem-64-Bit-SP1-Operating-System-64-Bit-/190862643411?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo=SIC&its=I&itu=UCI%2BIA%2BUA%2BFICS%2BUFI&otn=21&pmod=380651294248&ps=54
Price: £90
Motherboard: http://www.amazon.co.uk/P8Z77-V-Motherboard-CrossFireX-Intelligent-Processors/dp/B007KZQE7Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1375033864&sr=1-2&keywords=atx motherboard
Price: £85
CPU: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Intel-Graphics-BX80646I54570-Generation-Technology/dp/B00CV3E3WK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375034385&sr=8-1&keywords=Intel Core i5-4570
Price: £157
RAM: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CML...rmance/dp/B008E3M4TU/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
Price: £50
PSU: http://www.ebuyer.com/520535-alpine-ii-600w-b-white-psu-with-120mm-blue-fan-alpine-ii-600w-blue
Price: £14
Keyboard and Mouse (I have a decent mouse (Razer DeathAdder 2013) so I just need a cheap keyboard) : http://www.amazon.co.uk/Octigen-JK-...99617&sr=8-9&keywords=keyboard#productDetails
Price: £5
Graphics Card: http://www.dabs.com/products/gigabyte-geforce-gtx-650-ti-1032mhz-1gb-pci-express-3-0-hdmi-8BP8.html?q=Nvidia GeForce GTX 650 Ti&src=16
Price: £105
Thermal paste for CPU: http://www.digitaldevicesonline.co.uk/cooler-master-thermal-grease.html
Price: £2
Monitor (I may not need a monitor I might be able to use an old one, but if someone can find a small monitor VERY cheaply it would be greatly appreciated!): http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/comput...050s-20-led-backlit-monitor-11925669-pdt.html
Price: £70
Hard Drive: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Western-Digital-250GB-7200RPM-Internal/dp/B00134A2M8/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1375101575&sr=1-1&keywords=250 gb hard drive
Price £24
DVD Drive: http://www.amazon.co.uk/LiteOn-IHAS120-04-AllWrite-Height-Internal/dp/B00B4SJZQW/ref=sr_1_6?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1375101823&sr=1-6&keywords=Internal DVD-RW
Price: £13
CPU Cooler: http://www.scan.co.uk/products/intel-reference-s1156-aluminum-copper-base-heat-sink-fan-oem
£4
Sound Card (I'm not too bothered about sound so I went for a cheap one but it needs to be able to play game sounds atleast to an OK standard) : http://www.ebuyer.com/48180-xenta-6-channel-pci-soundcard-l-8738-6c
Price: £4
Not including monitor it totals around £600, I need to get it cheaper and if I can I will get like a 3gb ram kit and wait till I have more cash and get the 8gb ram kit if I need to but I would mainly like to know if I can get my ideal cheaper else where and for things like the RAM I just want 8gb, tell me if I can get a cheaper 8gb RAM kit for example.

I appreciate this is a lot of things to go through but I really would appreciate and I heard the TechSpot community is the best around! and I'm sure you will exceed my expectations!
Note: I AM A COMPLETE NOOB, I may have made a huge mistake, so don't get angry, and please spare me too much technical language!
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/my-first-custom-build-pc.194805/
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Hi son cheap my First gaming for build, guys have been reading a few of the help First build, cheap gaming for my son me find the best build threads and as my son wants a pc that will play bf at moderate settings First build, cheap gaming for my son for xmas I ve decided to have a go at building one My budget is pounds sterling This is what I ve priced up so far x - quot Primo a quot AMD A DDR Ready Barebones Socket FM This includes a case a watt power supply and an asrock fm m b x - Kingston GB SSDNow V Drive SATA Gb s x - Arctic Silver Thermal Compound x - AMD Athlon X K Black Edition GHz x - GeIL Black Dragon GB x GB DDR x - Arctic Silver Thermal Compound x - His HD mb graphics card All of the above have been sourced from overclockers co uk baring in my mind I ve never built a machine before I suppose what I want to know is will the components I ve picked compliment each other and could you guys point me in the right direction if I ve missed anything crucial out Or for that matter if you could put together a better build for the same sort of money I have been advised to go for the best graphics card I can afford so this is the reason the build looks so graphics heavy Anyway thanks in advance guys just from looking at some of the other threads on this site I can tell there s a lot of you who really know what you are doing nbsp

A:First build, cheap gaming for my son

Some suggestions:
If you are not planning on overclocking the CPU, then you can drop off the Arctic Shield 5 Thermal Compound (which you have listed twice by the way). Thermal compound comes with most CPU's, and it works just fine as long as you are not overclocking too much.
You will need to up the RAM to 8GB (4GB is just meeting the minimum requirements on most newer games). Having 8GB of ram will give you that "Buffer" zone to be able to play all the games for at least a couple years.
You only put in a 120GB SSD drive. You will have that filled with the Operating System and maybe a couple games and not have enough room for anything else. I would suggest for now, dumping the SSD drive and getting at least a 500GB to 1TB 7200rpm hard drive.
Should also get a DVD/Bluray drive.
You will also have to factor in the cost of an Operating System.

Those are my few suggestions, I know other people will be adding in theirs too. Hope this helps you out some.
 

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/first-build-cheap-gaming-for-my-son.197621/