So at first i thought it my keyboard wasn't being seen by windows but sometimes after holding the bluetooth button P3) (included ... Acer Aspire Acer Keyboard Case with an unknown device appears that appears to be my keyboard yet when i type in the connection code it doesn't respond and then the device no longer is showing It could just be another bluetooth device though i live in a dorm so there's many other people with bluetooth devices in the area nbsp I checked out this nbsp https acer--uk custhelp Acer Keyboard Case (included with Acer Aspire P3) ... com app answers detail a id how-to-pair-the-acer-bluetooth-keyboar nbsp but it only applies to and not Perhaps acer should release a driver update for windows early adopters that fixes their keyboard to work with windows unless there is a simple bug fix I looked online but i Acer Keyboard Case (included with Acer Aspire P3) ... seem to be the only one with this issue so far possibly due to the newness of Acer Keyboard Case (included with Acer Aspire P3) ... nbsp Edit found this post which weirdly didn't show up previously nbsp http community acer com t Windows- Bluetooth-not-working-after-installing-Windows- -on-Aspire- nbsp trying to update my drivers again to confirm this isn't an issue nbsp edit nope it added a connected devices section to replace the bluetooth section but otherwise didn't solve the problem yet nbsp edit so after like hours i finally realized what was the issue In order for it to be discoverable you need to make sure to first install nbsp the new windows specific bluetooth driver mentioned in the above post then use the REPAIR option in the bluetooth drivers THEN make sure the keyboard starts having both its blue and orange light flashing reseting the connection After doing nbsp these three things the keyboard should be discoverable in the bluetooth connection menu of windows listed specially as a keyboard Then just type in the code and you should be good to go
I recommend downloading and running Reimage. It's a computer repair tool that has been proven to identify and fix many Windows problems with a high level of success.
I've used it in the past to identify and fix everything from blue screens (BSOD's), ActiveX errors, corrupt files and processes, dll/exe/sys errors, recover lost memory, Windows update problems, defragging, malware removal etc.
You can download it direct from this link http://downloadreimage.com/directdownload.php. (This link will automatically start a download of Reimage that you can save to your computer.)
I can fix this problem...1.setup windows 10 v1511 by usb2.when setup windows ready, update driver with windows update3.download driver Bluetooth and update setup from acer site belowhttp://www.acer.com/ac/en/KH/content/drivers4.restart computer5.after restart goto bluetooth and search new device6.long press on power button on keyboard bluetooth cover until see blink blue and red light together7.when bluetooth connect with keyboard cover, enter 6 code bluetooth and endter for accept code8.enjoyhttp://community.acer.com/t5/Windows-10/Acer-Keyboard-Case-included-with-Acer-Aspire-P3-not-connecting/td-p/372663
Logitech has unveiled a new high-end gaming keyboard equipped with the company's own Romer-G mechanical switches. Officially known as the Logitech G310 Atlas Dawn Compact Mechanical Gaming Keyboard, it appears to be a direct descendant of the G910 Orion Spark...
Has a great design.
Just checking it seems like something is not wife's on this - my Keyboard - - found disabled getting computer of EPP tired still wrong on this computer just using a standard plain usb keyboard All of a sudden this morning when she was changing a plain ordinary mouse the keyboard quit working it works on Keyboard not found - EPP - disabled - getting tired of this on my wife's computer another computer the mouse works while using the same usb port in device manager there is no entry for Keyboard in devices and printers way down at the bottom a quot usb multimedia quot keyboard shows but when I try to look at the drivers there are several drivers and I cannot delete or disable any Looking at the HID compliant consumer control device driver details there are no drivers Device Manager Keyboard shows keyboard there are speed settings but in the hardware tab no name manufacturer location or device status Just in case with all of the problem we have had lately I did some scans the dss scan seems strange Is it mbam Windows Service Pack x NTFS Internet Explorer Motherboard FOXCONN Keyboard not found - EPP - disabled - getting tired of this on my wife's computer AB Processor AMD Phenom tm II X T Processor CPU mhz Disk Partitions C is FIXED NTFS - GiB total GiB free D is FIXED NTFS - GiB total GiB free E is CDROM F is Removable G is Removable H is Removable I is Removable J is Removable K is CDROM M is NetworkDisk NTFS - GiB total GiB free P is NetworkDisk NTFS - GiB total GiB free R is NetworkDisk NTFS - GiB total GiB free S is NetworkDisk NTFS - GiB total GiB free T is NetworkDisk NTFS - GiB total GiB free Something is rotten in Denmark nbsp
Some place I saw a message that windows updates was set to no update hareware files, but I can't find where to change that.
Can you even get a good one for under 50$? I haven't used ones since the junior high but a lot of people have told me they work a way better. I do a lot of typing for work and I also game. My current keyboard is winding down.
"Good" and "cheap" don't typically go together very often. There are certainly a lot of good lower end choices in the keyboard market, but a quality mechanical keyboard from Corsair for instance is around $100. The cheaper you go, the poorer the quality will be. If you don't mind buying a used one, you might check eBay and could probably nab a K70 - for around your price range. I use a Corsair red LED backlight K70 (w/cherry red switches) and its the best keyboard I've ever used. Love it!!! Once you try mechanical, you'll never go back.
Acer has added a new monitor to their gaming-focused lineup, the amazing looking XR341CK. This 34-inch 21:9 UltraWide QHD (3440 x 1440 pixels @ 75Hz) IPS monitor comes with a curved display in a zero frame design, which Acer says...
This type of monitor is the best way to channel the power of your GTX 980 Ti, which inherited its anti-aliasing power from the many generations before it, as opposed to having it choke on the 4K pixel-mania in chase for almost the same effect, at the expense of the dropped FPS.
Hi e1! my keyboard is going crazy, I spilled my drink and hitted the arrow keys by accident, they started to work backwords so I tried fixing them by removing the buttons and cleaning underneath.
But once I replaced the buttons the whole keyboard started to work funny, certain keys dont work and others are running randomly... Please HELP!!!
PS: I have a HP pavillion g series laptop.
Sorry for my bad english.
Your keyboard may still have some moisture. How much time have you allowed for it to dry out? I've heard that a blow dryer at the lowest possible setting will sometimes do the trick in the case of moisture, but it'd take a while and you would have to be very careful as too much heat will damage the electronics. I'm not too sure about this fix, though. Taking a blow dryer to a laptop does sound a bit risky. How did you clean your keyboard? Did you use any cleaning fluids?
I don't mean to get you down, but since it's a laptop we're talking about here -- and granting that you've allowed it ample time to dry out , then I think you will probably need to have the keyboard replaced. Do not let that stop you from doing further research on a possible remedy, though.
I have ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. H81-PLUS mobo in my desktop PC. I looked the menus of the BIOS but didn't find some option for turning the system on by pressing a key on keyboard. Has my mobo such an option? If yes, which menu please?
Press the space bar/mouse button for standby and the power button for hibernation.
I bought an interesting little Single Board Computer as an mITX motherboard (a WADE-8020, more info at the link below):
I have another similar board in an old Hoojum Cubit 3 case, and was wondering if anyone might have any other suggestions for a similarly eye-catching case, probably ready-made, though I'm not averse to either buying a DIYed case, or maybe trying to make one myself (I have a Dremel but not much else, and that includes skill )
I have a keyboard that has been working fine last night then this morning this happened:
When I type o it types o+ and when I type l it types l and enter (the key)
So this makes it extremely hard to get anything done, please help, thanks
How old is the keyboard? Sometimes "gunk" gets built up under the keys and can cause the keyboard to start failing. Have you tries to remove the keys (or take the keyboard apart) and properly clean it? There are plenty of tutorials (video and non-video) available if you are unsure of how to clean a keyboard.
Regular cleaning on all computer parts will extend the life of those parts.
HP G62-b80SS laptop
Many keys in the keyboard aren't working. I've successfully replaced the motherboard for this laptop because it went dead because of some dampness trickling going inside and is now otherwise working fine. It's been abandoned for 7 months. I've reseated the keyboard connector and cleaned it with a contact cleaner.
I guess I need to get a new keyboard, am I right?
Or the motherboard keyboard connector is damages by corrosion...
My dvd rom is not working wont take cd and makes a noise, will it be worth replacing it or should I just get an external dvd/ cd
I also have a Dell Inspiration 4700 that the on and off switch went bad. It has power therefore I dont think has to do with the power supply. I need some answers please on this two postings. Thank you
I have a Acer Aspire X3400 And I would really likle to upgrade it to 3.0 or 4.0, I also want to raise the FPS from 12 ( ikr, it's crap ) to a standard gaming pc
Please tell me
1. Motherboard size
2. What parts you would advise me to get
3. Where can I find some that will fit
I have a logik keyboard for pc and this what my keyboard gives instead
q gives `
w opens 'help' box on whatever programme is open
r gives 5
u gives 6
I gives =
p gives -
g gives b
h gives n
; gives '
' gives /
how can this be solved?
This might help you out!
How To Fix A Keyboard With Wrong Characters
Good luck and let us all know how the repair job went!
My acer battery was getting bad and my computer suggested I change it. Now with my charger plugged in(with or without battery) my laptop will power down after 15-20mins. I have ordered a new battery and will try it but I would have thought my laptop should run fine without one plugged in? Any idea the cause of this? My laptop would run for several hours on safe mode but even now safe mode is being powered down
Neither my keyboard or mouse are working on any of the 7 USB ports on my computer. My mouse was initially working, but I read somewhere if you delete the keyboard drivers you can reinstall them and it will work again. BUT when I was doing that I stupidly uninstalled my mouse driver so now NOTHING works. I can't try if it works in safe mode because my keyboard doesn't respond when I hit f12 during boot up.
When I plug in the mouse or keyboard, I get a window that pops up asking if I want to install the hardware, but it's impossible for me to do anything because my mouse and keyboard don't work! If anyone has any ideas I would greatly appreciate the help. Thanks!
First I would try to find a different working keyboard because you should at less be able to boot into safe mode because the drivers don't even load until windows start loading.
I am looking to upgrade the GPU on this PC but I am unsure if the PSU will be able to support it. I am not looking to install a high end GPU only a low end card such as ASUS 2 GB AMD Radeon R7 240-2GD3-L PCIe. I am aware that the PSU has a max of 220w but I am unsure of the current load. Based on the basic system with no current upgrades are you able to advise me on this?
Basic specs are:
Windows 7 64 Bit
Intel Core i3 2120
Intel HD Integrated Graphics
2 HD (1 SATA 1GB)
1 Optical Drive
Realtek HD Audio
If necessary I am able to disconnect 1 HD and the optical drive as they are not necessary, also to disable the onboard graphics if possible if this will help.
Here is a related topic
Indeed, I thought initially that it was a EFI problem but the problem is simply a graphic driver issue with the graphic card GeForce 605.Click to expand...
I'm not positive a card can work in your machine and can not give suggestions.
Hello, lately I've been having the strangest of problems:
My mouse doesn't work as it should - sometimes clicking on something doesn't do anything, sometimes it does something different, as if some altering keys were pressed - eg sometimes clicking on a tab in a browser will close it (with left mouse button).
I have tried to locate and update new drivers for my keyboard and mouse, since these are my guesses for what could be causing this, but couldn't find any driver for the keyboard and the driver for the mouse didn't change anything.
My mouse : Trust MI-6970C Laser Mouse
My keyboard: Genius KB-G265
I'm running Win 7 Professional
I can't think of any changes that I did at the time this started happening, so I'm really at loss.
Thank you for any advice on this.
Try them with another computer. If they both work OK suspect either a hardware problem with your computer or a possible malware infection. It could also conceivably be a Windows problem but the other two possibilities are more likely.
Acer announced two new gaming-grade 27-inch monitors at the Consumer Electronics Show last month. The XB270HU garnered the most media attention thanks to its IPS panel and Nvidia G-Sync technology. What Acer neglected to mention at the time, however, was...
Those bezels are awesome! I wonder how much it'll go for though...
I am not sure how to ask this properly but basically I have a laptop pad controller (AKAI LPD8), normally used for controlling midi. I would like to use this device to control my shortcuts in foobar2000. The problem is that the program does not really like my controller. When I check the device manager, I saw that my controller is seen as "audio device". Is there any way to make computer see the device as another input device like a keyboard? If I can manage to make controller act like a keyboard I think I can handle the rest, is this possible?
Thanks for your helps in advance!
Okay, if anyone else look for it I've found the solution:
for mac: http://www.charlie-roberts.com/midiStroke/
and for windows http://www.bome.com/products/miditranslator/overview/classic
I am in love with the CM Stryker case however its fulltower so its rather big.
Does anyone know if I can get a similar case in medium size?
Thanks! ( Yes I tried googling already )
I have an Acer that spontaneously decided I no longer needed to play games. Everything else works perfectly fine. It's been doing this for the past few weeks and I've done all that I can. I'm no tech wizard by any means and I need some help. Pretty much it'll open to the load screen for a few moments then disappear back to my home screen. Any ideas on what it could be and what I can do?
These are the specs:
Acer Aspire V5 Touch with Windows 8.1
Model number: Z5WV2
If you need more info let me know, I still have everything for it.
If you are talking about the games that are loaded by a app. You will need to uninstall the app. Then reinstall the app. I have no ideal why this happens . But I have seen it more then once.
I m doing this on my Toshiba laptop at the moment and you ll see why later in this post Earlier today I acquired an ASUS Z C notebook and had noticed that the keyboard is acting rather strange Certain keys will also register other keys when pressed Here s which ones react this ASUS Issue Z54C/X54C Mapping Keyboard way letters are not case sensitive U will also register Zero will register registers registers R W registers S ASUS Z54C/X54C Keyboard Mapping Issue I I places a Date Stamp this might be the problem There may be others but I d like to move on to the behavior the way this behaves is if I press the key U then quot u quot or quot U quot will show up depending on ASUS Z54C/X54C Keyboard Mapping Issue if I press Shift or not The same thing happens if I press the key This is the same for all others if I press one or the other of these keys in question the other appears with it At first I thought this was a problem with the copy of Windows that was installed so I installed Windows Tech Preview I was going to do so anyway However this behavior did not go away Looking for help and I d be more than happy to resolve this problem I should note that not all keys behave this way but that the majority of them work fine It s just that this should not be happening to begin with I ve also pulled the keyboard out and inspected it I didn t see any dried fluids or any obstructions in the keys Should I perhaps consider replacing the keyboard Sadly I have no USB keyboards to see if the behavior is isolated to the laptops primary keyboard although using the On-Screen Keyboard doesn t elicit this behavior nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/asus-z54c-x54c-keyboard-mapping-issue.208302/
If your Acer M does not start up Don t fret I found a simple solution With the computer turned off Remove side panel Reach M460 Acer inside and hold Acer M460 exhaust fan so it can not move While holding fan Push the on button on the front panel Listen for the quot beep quot sound After you hear the quot Beep quot release the fan The fan will start up after a second or two P S Do not let fan move until you hear the quot beep quot first Many suites on the web say it is the quot capacitors quot NOT TRUE I had this year for over a year When I turned off my Acer M Sometimes it would not start up I got so and I cut the wires inside the computer Purchased another used M it did the same thing Figuring I needed new caps I purchased a set of the two biggest caps Then I needed a soldering gun Then I needed to desolder the caps already on the board Then I purchased a rework station So far I have only used the air gun Starting yesterday This procedure works for me It will work for you as well nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/acer-m460.207931/
Without going into details, about a teaspoon of shampoo got spilled on my laptop keyboard in the top left quarter. I tried posting this from it, but it was unreadable. I immediately shut it down & used a dry towel to wipe up excess but some keys still don't work .
Please don't tell me I have to tear my laptop apart The Esc key does work.
Its a VGN-CR590
I do have the manual ,but I don't think it shows how to remove the keyboard. TIA
I'm stumped. I found this http://www.laptopkeyboard.com/Guides.php/Sony/VGN-CR (Silver)/VGN-CR590/KBS15
checked out the manual but still can't find the screws with keyboard icons & I fear breaking the keyboard by removing it incorrectly.
1 4gb samsung pc3-12800 1.35 v
1 4gb nanya pc3-10600 1.5 v
The timings are listed different on the stick.
HWInfo reports that at 666.7 both are 9-9-9-24
Crucial will sell me all 1.35 v memory as upgrades and the 4830T-6678 Timeline X came with the [email protected]
The laptop boots and runs with both sticks installed
Any thoughts on this?
Is the laptop reporting 8GB of memory installed? If it is, you should be okay
Hello Yesterday I got a virus on an Acer Extensa laptop Said virus was turning on a fake antivirus whenever I opened a file which wanted me to pay a price for a quot cleanup quot I wasn t able to Acer Extensa 5235 booting problem turn anything on Luckily I managed to turn it off through msconfig and delete the virus files Right now however the laptop won t even turn on The Acer Extensa 5235 problem booting quot Acer quot screen goes on the flickers a few times in the upper left corner and the laptop resets I won t even get to a safe mode The notebook had minimal differences from the factory preset had Win Acer Extensa 5235 problem booting and worked until yesterday I have a OEM Win XP home CD at my disposal at the moment I have already tried Booting through BartPe and an iso image of Windows XP on an USB flashdisk To no avail I get to the BartPe layout but the BartPe file explorer shows no disks available Boot through the disk itself At first it didn t load with the error quot STOP X B xf d Xc X X quot which I was able to circumvent by transferring from a SCSI mode to IDE mode in BIOS When I installed Win XP however I had an error concerning a few uncopiable files described for example here - http forums penny-arcade com discussion cant-install-xp-from-any-disk-to-any-disk I skipped everything and the PC now resides in a quot minimal quot Win Xp preset With the former Win configuration of course absent I think I d be able to fix this if I found the MSCONFIG settings for the Windows I used before and which I mistakenly modified I probably turned off something that now blocks the system from starting Is it possible to do so through the new Windows Xp installation The former Win folder is untouched Win Xp runs from another folder Thank you very much for all help nbsp
I had to look up BartPE to see what it was but I think it's unlikely to save the day in your situation.
Assuming that your priority is to get Windows 7 back I'd first check that you have the Microsoft authorisation code for your copy. If it was pre-installed on the laptop there will be a hidden restore partition and you could try holding down the Alt key while tapping F10 to access it. Failing that option I'd download a Windows 7 SP1 ISO, burn it to disc, reinstall the OS and hope that there are no serious driver problems. Both options mean that everything you have installed and saved will be lost unless you have already made backups.
Which is your main brand of choice?
My Acer Aspire shuts down loses power - seconds after powering on It started when I was playing a Acer laptop after seconds down shuts video game and the laptop suddenly shut down I thought it was overheating so I let it cool down About an hour later I Acer laptop shuts down after seconds turned it on and it boot normally but min later the laptop shut down again Next time I tried it turned off minutes then seconds later In those s after pressing the power button no errors or beeps occur just the Acer logo screen I even get past Acer logo sometimes or go to Bios password prompt if i press F just before laptop powers off Acer laptop shuts down after seconds This all happened in the course of a few hours laptop was working fine beforehand no overheating think so cause games lagged when laptop was overheating previously If I turn it on again just after it powered off the laptop shuts down in seconds as opposed to seconds if i leave it alone for a while Also according to task manager CPU and RAM usage is normal when shut down happens Tried Cleaning out the fan and the heat sink wasn t that much dust Fan works Applying new silver thermal grease to CPU and GPU after removing the old one Powering on with only one RAM stick then only the other black screen when I take out both Powering on without Wifi card Powering on without the battery only on AC power Then only with the battery in Powering on without Hard Drive Powering on while putting pressure to the middle of the keyboard read that this might pop the CMOS battery to it s slot if that s the problem Pressing the power button for min There are a lot of people with Acer Aspire who have powering on and off in endless loop problem Supposedly GPU reflow helps I don t think my problem is the same though because my laptop shuts down and doesn t restart Also my screen is working This is the only computer I have Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated nbsp
Are you able to run Memtest for any length of period? Search for YUMI Multiboot. Download that, install it to a spare USB stick. Download memtest from yumi program. Boot off of stick and run memtest.
If not get a new motherboard/cpu off ebay.
Hey guys I was looking at case suggestions mini-ITX redoing a build as a mini-itx so it would be more in the question to carry it somewhere if need be This is my alternative to getting a laptop as a primary mini-ITX case suggestions computer and ill be gettiing some sort of cheap portable tablet laptop for college work So I was looking for mini-ITX cases that would be best for my situation Alot of them are cube-like and im not a fan I would prefer something that I could put my xbox on top or vica versa Not that id definately be doing that but thats generally what form factor I want I also need to be able to fit like at most a GTX in it I know thats asking alot but alot of the cube cases can do mini-ITX case suggestions it all mini-itx cases ive really seen are too slim or to cube like and that makes it feel clunky to move anywhere Id really like to have the most efficient PC case possible Ive got a corsair c build right now and it just doesnt work at college as well as id want Oh yea my budget is at max Looking further im starting to think I won t be able to get a build small enough for what im looking for and I guess thats understandable I guess I should say my PSU budget is so it either needs to support a normal PSU or have a smaller one in that price range and wattage amperage that can run a non overclocked i and a GTX nbsp
I am doing a second mini-itx and the case does not seem to be working. the first case is no longer available - I posted pics here - it was all acrylic/clear - over the long term, it turns out that the acrylic broke at the power-on button and where the power supply meets the back of the case.
You might want to look at some that are for video - they have a low, flat profile like a DVD player.
You can get one that will accommodate a pico-psu power supply. This is a laptop-style power supply, with a barrel connector to connect to the computer.
This connection needs to be figured out before ordering parts. The right pico-psu will connect right into the ATX power supply plug, just like the plug coming out of a regular ATX power supply. But the barrel connection needs to be supported by the case.
My Gateway NV52 keyboard randomly stops typing o, p, l, ., and (.
All f a sudden it starts working as normal. Again while I am typing, the above mentioned letters stop working.
I checked for dirt stuck under the keys but nothing was there
the weirdest thing is, I tried a USB flexible keyboard instead and that was working properly for a while and that o, l, and . stopped working on that one as well.
I am confused why it's happening., and sick of filling the blanks of o, p. l with "on-screen keyboard". Please help me to figure this out.
Thanks guys, appreciated.
Hello everyone - I have just assembled a new build It will not power up I need a suggestion to figure out if the problem is the case or the motherboard This is a mini-itx build power-up: power New or Build MB? no supply case's The case is New Build no power-up: case's power supply or MB? Linkworld LC - B This case comes with a volt watt external laptop-style power supply that plugs into the rear of the case just like New Build no power-up: case's power supply or MB? a laptop power supply plugs into a laptop - a barrel connector Inside this power connection connects to a power supply component that is not like a regular ATX power supply but is on a printed-circuit board New Build no power-up: case's power supply or MB? mounted on the case This has several capacitors and other stuff From that comes the -pin and -pin power supply lines for the motherboard I assume the -volt power supply for this external power supply unit is right since it came with the case It was watt The processor is an IBM t with TDP of watts Lower-powered CPUs can be put in a small so I assumed the power supply might be under-powered I ordered a -watt volt power supply with the right size barrel - and same polarity pos inside The MB is an ASRock H MV-ITX It is mini-itx form factor Still same problem Everything is connected correctly When I press the power-on button an external CD drive I have plugged-in spins up for a while But no power light comes on in the front of the case there are no POST beeps the fan for the CPU does not spin up No other signs of life So power is getting into the MB - the external CD drive is plugged into a USB socket in the rear panel of the MB After trying a watt and watt power supply I believe the problem cannot be the power supply cord Can it be that I have too little load I don t think so I plugged in another mm fan and an ol-fashion floppy drive just the power connection to add more load - same thing no power-up no POST nothing but the CD drive will spin up when I open-then-close it yet again So here is the help I need what else can I try -assuming the MB and case are fine is it more likely the case power supply is bad or the MB --Thanks nbsp
Well, I figured out the problem.
I am planning to re-do the older mini-itx system I have; it has gotten riddled with Trojan software for kids downloading games; it basically has been de-commissioned already.
So, I took the pico-psu power supply from that older computer, and hooked it up to the one I am making. Everything went perfectly.
So, I un-did that, removed the MB from case, disconnected the barrel-power connection from the case, unscrewed and removed the power supply that had been mounted in the case, put the pico-psu power supply back in place (I had to drill the hole for the barrel-connection out to be a little bigger since the pico-psu internal/external connection is threaded and held in place by nut with lock washer), and routed wires to be clear of cpu fan, screwed MB to stand-offs, and closed it all up.
now, everything is great. I like this linkworld case, but the power supply is worthless. I may try to get a few dollars back from the ebay vendor, to make me happy with a case that is less than what I should have gotten, but is working for me; I don't want to wait on returns, etc.
Greetings. I typically use and love Microsoft's ergonomic keyboard. However I am pretty hard on my keys playing Star Wars, EQ2 and other games (alt+1, alt+2, ect). I love the feel of mechanical keyboards, love the springy-ness! I also really REALLY love the bent/split ergonomic design that Microsoft came out with. I can type soo much faster on it.
I have searched High n Low and I cant seem to find an ergonomic 'mechanical' keyboard.
So, is there such a keyboard on the market and where can I possibly purchase it?
My friend found this electronic sign. The ones with red leds that scroll a message across it. On the back is a connector marked keyboard. It looks like a Cat5 connector. Anyone know how that would work or what kind of keyboard/adapter he would use?
I know absolutely nothing about the Electronic Signs. The only thing I can do is share a link I found that may help. You can try Programming Alpha Signs Without a Keyboard which points to AlphaNet for Windows for programming software.
Hello...I will start from the begining .
I bought the Acer V5 and tried booting it up...it came with boot-up Linux which means nothing to me so I made a Windows 8 bootable USB and the problems started. First I could'n find the USB and after enabling the Legacy mode it finally found it and booted from it. Turned out the partitions are GPT and as I made the USB MBR it couldn't install so I canceled which I guess was my mistake but there was no other option. After that I created the bootable USB with GPT partition scheme and tried again. Unfortunately this time I got something called GNU GRUB....wth? I googled around and found the commands required for booting - root (hd1,0), then chainloader +1 and finally boot. Then I get the famous The Boot Configuration Data for your PC is missing or contains errors with Status: 0xc000000e. Of course tried that couple of more times but still to no avail. I cannot recover or repair as Windows was never really installed, so I don't know what to do....Hopefully someone here would be able to help. Thanks in advance guys.
My keyboard acting weird in past few days. if I click r, it will go in RUN application, if I click L, It will logout the account, etc. I tried many anti malware like unhackme, Malware Bytes, Adware Cleaner, JKT, TDSS Killer and my Anti virus is Avira. I even tried ESET NOD. All was updated.
I tried 2 new keyboards and still acting weird.
Lastly. I Reformat my PC twice and the virus that modified my keyboard was still there.
Help me. Thank you.
I doubt it was a virus, it sounds more like an incorrect setting in your keyboard settings.
What Operating System are you using & the name/model# of your keyboard. The more info you have, the easier it'll be to fix it.
On my hp laptop pavllion. Noinstructions came with it
Google: "replace keyboard HP pavillion model_number"
Hey guys, I'm pretty much a noob at this.
Long story short... My acer aspire 5552 will not stay on. When I turn it on I have to press on a certain area if not multiple areas. Before I had opened it and cleaned out the fan it use to overheat like crazy it used to hit about 90 degrees I'm wondering if that has ruined something?
Thanks in advance
First of all. Why do you have to hit certain area or for that matter. Multiple areas. It may still be running to hot. Or something was damage when you put in back togather. If it is running to hot . It may need new thermal pads.
I have an Acer Aspire Z5610 AIO computer.When I first bought it a few years back the @ and " were transposed.Hit the @ and " would come up and vice versa.At the time I contacted someone (can't remember who) and with their advice I was able to correct the problem.Due to age the PC was running v.slowly,painfully so.I decide to revert back to Factory default settings,unwisely it turns out,but the old problem of @ and " transposition is back.Has anyone out there got a solution to this problem.It is fixable as I have done it before,but how !!!
Thanks in advance,
It's not really a problem particularly as you know which keys to press to get @ or ". This is one of the few differences between UK and US keyboard layouts. You can change the English language version from one of the options in Control Panel.
Hey everyone I own the Acer Aspire G- and I ve had it for a little over two years now One 5552G-7641 Aspire with Temperatures Acer Extremely High of the main problems I have with it is its temperature Right now when all I have open Extremely High Temperatures with Acer Aspire 5552G-7641 is Firefox and iTunes the temperature according to Speedfan is as follows HD C Temp C GPU C Core C I have the rear of my laptop suspended about cm in the air by putting two bottle caps in the rear corners This is an attempt to promote better cooling When I play video games it overheats to the point that the laptop shuts off automatically I understand that the majority of overheating issues is not cleaning enough And indeed I have never cleaned my laptop before However opening the laptop or bringing it to a tech-guy is not really an option at the moment I have read on many forums that using compressed air is efficient but I have also read that it can be extremely dangerous on laptops because of water moisture Also they seem to only pertain to desktops With that said I am here to ask for advice as to what to do with this thing The only ventilation hole is on the left of the laptop and takes up about of the side If any additional information is needed I will gladly provide it Thank you nbsp
Speedfan is not accurate 95% of the time. Tell me the readings using Realtemp: http://www.techpowerup.com/realtemp/.
sometimes my laptop keyboard and the touchpad just turn off. I can't use any key an I dont even see the cursor on the display. Ii need to restart my laptop and then everything works fine. I've already downloaded a driver from the manufacturer's site. Is this maybe a hardware problem?
I have an HP Pavilion 17 e130ez notebook.
You may try to hard reset your laptop by removing the battery off and also disconnecting the AC power adapter/charger. Then press and hold the power button for about 30 - 60 seconds, after you release it, reconnect the power and turn your laptop ON and find out if you're still having those issues.
Replaced the mobo (Gigabyte GA-78LMT-USB3), CPU (AMD FX-4300 Vishera), and RAM (G-Skill RipJaws 4MBx2) in an older system running WinXP (planning to upgrade to Win7 ASAP). Everything booted up just fine, but the HP keyboard and the Logitech mouse, both of which which work fine on another computer, aren't being recognized at all by the computer. No error messages, just not working. Not even lighting up. We've tried every USB port on the system, and even used a USB-PS/2 adapter to try it that way, to no avail. I'm out of things to try. My only thoughts:
1. Could USB be disabled in BIOS by default? If so, how do I change that without a keyboard and mouse, when I can't even access the BIOS?
2, Could the USB system on the new motherboard be defective? How do I test that?
3. Is there any possibility at all that it's related to the Antec 500W PSU--perhaps not enough wattage for this system? (Hard drives are all pretty old.)
Create and boot from a Knoppix Live CD (just google to find and download the ISO). If USB still doesn't work when you boot from knoppix, you know it must be either hardware or BIOS issue.
Just ruled out malware in other section of this forum. Laptop's integrated keyboard suffers intermittent lock-ups for no apparent reason (sometimes works, sometimes doesn't, right now, doesn't). Touchpad seems deactivated (tried FN + F7 in case of accidental disable, but that's not the case), every option related to touchpad are grayed out in 'mouse' menu (config panel). Before malware check-up,tried system restore to last week, all problems were still there, so I reverted back. I have to use visual keyboard to type. Have to work with external mouse because touchpad doesn't work. Tried reinstalling touchpad drivers from Acer website, and didn't work. Computer worked perfect a few days ago.
Sounds like you may have some system files corrupt. This can occur after a lot of spyware. Some times just removing it dose not correct what it has already messed up. Your best maybe to back up your personal stuff. Then do a factory reinstall.
I just bought a new computer and I must have hit something but now I cannot use the question mark as all I get is the EéééÉÉÉ and the one above is the sameèèè. so anoying how do I undo this please
C J Hadley said:
I just bought a new computer and I must have hit something but now I cannot use the question mark as all I get is the EéééÉÉÉ and the one above is the sameèèè. so anoying how do I undo this pleaseClick to expand...
No guarantee, but if wireless, remove the batteries for a bit, it might help. Any lights lit up on the keyboard? If so, which?
I finally found out why my wireless keyboard didn't work as I mentioned in another thread several months back.
Evidently the USB wifi thingy was in a USB port that didn't work. When I was going thru this thread http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/unknown-device.202706/
I removed it thinking it might be the unknown device.
Anyhow, I've been trying to find the manual for my wireless KB & can't find it.
I'm not sure which number(s) I need. MS PART NO. X820309-001
Serial number or Product ID? Here it is
Well, I went here http://www.microsoft.com/hardware/en-us/d/wireless-keyboard-3000 & despite the fact its default language is English, the downloads are in any language BUT.
After formating my PC I realised that the taskbar is unable to appear because the screen resolution does not fit the desktop. how do I set the specific screen resolution for acer aspire one d257. I have tried using the registry tweak for higher screen resolution but it does not work.
So newegg is offering the Acer 29" B6 B296CLbmlidprz IPS monitor for about 350. Seems like a pretty good deal but I can't find many reviews on it. I was wondering if anybody had any experience with this monitor and/or if you guys have better options for someone who is looking for an IPS monitor below 400 bucks. I want to game with it as well as do some 3d modeling and photoshop work. So I need reasonable response time for gaming. I was also looking at the HP ZR2440w and was gonna get that until I saw this deal on newegg for a larger monitor. 24" models are fine but if there are good deals on some 27" inch ones then I would be interested in those as well. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Heres the link for that monitor.
A few weeks ago I restarted my laptop and it started making an incredibly loud beeping Sound as if keys were stuck. I managed to log into my desktop using the on screen keyboard but as I double clicked my internet browser around 40 pages popped up so I knew something was stuck. After this, a few of my number buttons stopped working but this didn?t really bother me so I didn?t try fixing it but now it seems like my whole keyboard is messed up. Whenever I press a button its almost as if my return key is stuck. Here is an example of me typing without using the on screen keyboard
This post b
Ecause my keyb
What can I do? please help
I've already tried cleaning out my keyboard and my
acer aspire 5750 if thats needed
You will need to take it to a repair shop and have the key board replaced. Or if you know someone who works on lap tops and have them replace the key board for you. Either way It will need to be replaced.
Ok,guys.I need a suggestion about what case to get,my budget is up to 60$.
Looks are not important, the most important things are to have 1 fan or more,good cable managment and good build quality.
The Corsair 200R meets all your needs, but unfortunately, after Corsair released their new Spec budget cases, they raised the price of the 200R from $50 to $70.
So if you want a nice case for <$70, Corsair has some nice options you can check out >>here<<. I would watch unboxing videos on the Spec cases before purchasing since I am unsure if they would suit your needs (I am not too familiar with them since they are new). If you decide on a case, I recommend buying them from either >>Newegg<< or >>Amazon<<.
If you are interested in an unboxing of the 200R, check it out >>here<<.
Hi mouse and responding after Keyboard not bootup Its been a while since I last posted here boy has this site changed I generally know how to fix my pc problems when they arise and if I dont google has been my friend but I have ran into something that has me banging my head on the desk My pc that I built just over a year ago or so has been running smoothly until today I woke up from a nap and booted up my pc and neither my mouse or my keyboard would respond My microphone is also plugged in via USB the light on that is on as with my caps lock key on my keyboard but my mouse light will not turn on after I tried unplugging and replugging it Please note Keyboard and mouse not responding after bootup I am unable to enter bios since I cannot get my keyboard working I also am not able to run in safe mode because that also requires keystrokes Keyboard and mouse are in good working order as I am using them now on my Keyboard and mouse not responding after bootup secondary PC one that got replaced to type out this thread I took these steps unplugging the USB connections and re-plugging them back in - no results - restarted pc - no results unplugging the USB connections and re-plugging them back in in different locations - no results Keyboard and mouse not responding after bootup - restarted pc - no results unplugging USB mouse and used the USB to PS adapter to plug it back in via PS - no results - restarted pc - no results So now that I am unable to get into bios or safe mode what are my options I was thinking of just trying to re-install windows but only as a last resort Thanks in advance I dont think my current system specs are needed to help fix this issue but I will include them just in case to save you guys time Processor Intel core i Motherboard ASRock Extreme X Cooling NZXT Kraken X Memory Geil Enhance Corsa DDR GB Video Card s EVGA SuperClocked GTX Titan Hard Disk s OCZ Vertex GB SSD Toshiba TB HDD Optical Drive ASUS External BR Burner Power Supply CoolerMaster Silent Pro Hybrid w Software Win Keyboard CoolerMaster Storm Mechanical Mouse ROCCAT Kone Pure nbsp
Nvm for now, it seems to be working now, but not with my mechanical keyboard, I reverted back to an older usb 2.0 keyboard and now it and my mouse both work fine.
though, my mechanical keyboard does work fine on my old pc.
so still a lil confused on that.
Acomdata Model with WD AAJB drives installed System Dell Optiplex with Windows XP-Home Acomdata driver installed Two identical by computers different 4 recognized HD not case of IDE Acomdata 509 any New in cases and drives neither was recognized Objective to format these brand new IDE drives New IDE HD in Acomdata 509 case not recognized by any of 4 different computers Drive configured as Master Master with Slave New IDE HD in Acomdata 509 case not recognized by any of 4 different computers and Slave the only evidence of New IDE HD in Acomdata 509 case not recognized by any of 4 different computers movement of disk Pink light was when installed as slave As MASTER or Master w slave No pink LED at any time Reset as MASTER An identical second Acomdata box with a second new WD AAJB drive behaved exactly the same It was not recognized in the Dell Initially the Device Manager USB list showed a yellow warning for a USB Mass Storage Device Uninstall and reinstall hardware made no difference A subsequent repeat of uninstall reinstall caused the yellow warning to disappear When the drive was reinstalled a small screen popped up in the Notification area telling me that new hardware had been found My Computer Open - eventually showed H as well as W X Y Z the card readers At that time Device Mgr USB Mass Storage had no yellow warning any more Storage Disk Management did not show H at that point An internal inconsistency ----- When I tried to FORMAT from the OPEN drop down menu H was shown to be inaccessible Tried the Acomdata drive system on an iMac and two functioning Sony Vaio PCs running Windows None could see the external drive Microsoft and other sites had all the same ineffective directions for taking care of the Code Cannot start this device MS blamed it on a device in one place Nothing to do with a device No one mentioned anything about how the HD should be set up while Acomdata s instructions were to set it up as a Master which I did After spending several hours on this with these two new WD AAJB drives and two Acomdata cases no success --- Contacted WD support for help via E-mail They responded that they do not support the drives unless directly connected to the mother board I e they did not know or have any idea either Searching the Internet the problem shows up very frequently for many people regardless or PC make or Windows OS When I first acquired the Acomdata case it worked OK I actually installed Windows XP pro on it with some files That drive is not recognized either in that case any more Different PC nbsp
Addendum: One of the drives is in a 509 Combo case, so I tried the 1394/Firewire connection.
Result: with the 1394 connection, the PC hung up during booting at the Windows screen.
Checked the BIOS and it looked ok. Safe mode booted OK, but the drive was not visible in My Computer-->Open; Device Manger, or in My Computer--> Manage-->Disk Management.
There seems to be no way to recognize this case or its USB only 2nd unit.
I cannot believe that both Acomdata cases developed defects in storage.
Laptop Model Acer Aspire G Graphic Card Model ATI Mobility Radeon HD MB 512MB) screen 5470 with problem Black ATI (Acer Aspire Radeon 4745G HD Mobility OS Windows bits Problem Laptop starting to turn to blackscreen constantly since last week At the Black screen problem (Acer Aspire 4745G with ATI Mobility Radeon HD 5470 512MB) beginning it still manage to back to normal after restart But then after few days it turn to black screen during every startup whenever it progress until window start-up animation I can even still hear the welcome sound although the screen is black I can still using the laptop through safe mode After that I google for some related solution and found that it s probably the graphic card display adapter problem So I disable the graphic card Radeon HD Black screen problem (Acer Aspire 4745G with ATI Mobility Radeon HD 5470 512MB) option under display adapter and it goes Black screen problem (Acer Aspire 4745G with ATI Mobility Radeon HD 5470 512MB) perfectly well But when I enable the graphic card option under display adapter in normal mode my laptop screen will turns black again back to previous problem I tried to uninstall the graphic card under display adapter and reinstall the graphic card driver download from Acer Support but the problem still appears The graphic card driver after reinstall is appears to be ATI Mobility Radeon HD series instead of previously ATI Mobility Radeon HD Is it normal or I download the wrong driver although it s from Acer Support What should I do to solve this blackscreen problem nbsp
1) Uninstall the all AMD software with this AMD Uninstall tool.
2) Restart your PC.
3) Download and install the latest stable driver (13.4) from here: http://sites.amd.com/us/game/downloads/Pages/radeon_win7-64.aspx
my acer laptop 7520 shuts itself down after booting for few seconds.
It has Vista but dont think its a software / virus issue. As I got into BIOS / booting menu, it did not stay there. it shuts itself down.
I removed CD rom from laptop but had same result. It has two 1GB rams, I removed them one at a time but had same result. I then removed Harddisk and tried to make it boot from USB, but had same result. It was shutting down after 10 - 30 seconds. I see the Fan running when ever I start the laptop. Fan is very clean. no dust, dont think its a heating problem then.
please can some one advise what could be issue.
I ran it on full battery but had same result. Then I removed battery and connected the power cable into laptop, same result. it shuts down after few seconds.
Sounds as though its over heating. You might try taking a can of air and blowing the vents out. If this has not helped. You may need to take it to a repair shop. and have the thermal pads replaced.
Hello All I have a very odd issue here I have a fairly inexpensive Rosewill chiclet keyboard that I absolutely love I spilled coffee on it so I quickly unplugged it used a blow dryer on it with cool air I then let is air dry outside on a sunny day and when I was certain it was dried out I tried it It s perfect no issues That is until recently it started doing weird things such as pressing L makes the computer think I m pressing K thinks it s etc etc Now when I quickly unplug the keyboard and plug it back into the USB it comes back to functioning properly Rebooting also resolves this But usually once to times a day Keyboard characters USB in until types unplugged/plugged incorrect back it does this I play battlefield so it becomes very apparent that the keyboard is acting up when you press L to chat with your squad and it doesn t USB Keyboard types incorrect characters until unplugged/plugged back in bring up the chat screen Anyway here are some things I ve tried - Numlock is off - Different USB Port - Checked my region settings Now I assumed like I am sure a lot of you are that quot it must be the keyboard is shorted out in some way from the coffee quot Well it s a cheap enough keyboard that I love enough so I bought a new one Same thing keeps happening I try it on my other computer and neither keyboard seems to have this issue repeat I am not sure if it s just coincidence or not but it all started after I spilled the coffee I should note that none of my other USB devices are suffering from any weird glitches at least none that I notice The coffee also did not get anywhere near the desktop tower itself Only on the keyboard Thanks for any help nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/usb-keyboard-types-incorrect-characters-until-unplugged-plugged-back-in.199975/
Hi all good to be a part of the forum I am building a new PC that will not have to be replaced in the next couple of years So first off I ll give you a brief of what sort of PC user I am Large PC mobo, others - for Ideas and TV new among keyboard, questions CPU, media Ideas and questions for new PC - keyboard, CPU, mobo, TV among others consumer I watch lots of television shows and keep them stored on my hard drive Also like to live stream TV Computer programmer Will be running Notepad primarily although Visual Studio and Adobe ColdFusion will feature as well Minimal gamer if Ideas and questions for new PC - keyboard, CPU, mobo, TV among others at all I might load GTA IV on to the machine if I get bored GTA V if it comes to PC Ideas and questions for new PC - keyboard, CPU, mobo, TV among others And MS Flight Sim Lots of data entry using MS Access as a front end mostly Casual web browsing High resolution RAW photo editing HD video editing Adobe Premiere After Effects and complex vector graphics Light CAD work and diagramming Impatient Everything has to be fast Fast load fast read write Use CompactFlash as external storage I am not doing anything by halves on this build and as such I have no budget okay I very much have a budget but it is not low So this is the list of hardware I am looking at purchasing http pccasegear com sc tmm My general thought process with the build - Media hub is important as I am constantly misplacing MicroSD- gt SD adapters plus using CF cards - Case design is important I love the design of Apple Computers and fail to see why PCs can t look like that However I am not limited to that case so if you could recommend anything that looks just as awesome please do so - Need speed particularly disk write read - Reason for multiple graphics cards is due to the large amount of monitors - that I will be attaching - Yes I know this is overkill But I m sick of having underkill My primary questions - What s a good CPU and motherboard Large number of USB ports is plus for the mobo and built in WiFi and Bluetooth is a huge advantage as well Though I do have a wireless card I can use if I must CPU just has to be super efficient and not strain under load I know very little about this area - What s a good way to do monitors I would like to have monitors The inch widescreen as shown on that page my current quot inch landscape and two portrait monitors I would like to have the two landscape monitors mounted on top of each other and the portrait monitors on either side I do currently have a HP monitor that can rotate between portrait and landscape as well as my Samsung quot However I don t know how to mount a normal monitor into portrait or what a good monitor would be for a portrait monitor - What s a good keyboard I navigate by keyboard primarily and do alot of typing I d also like a detachable or separate numpad for when I m entering lots of numbers into a database So any recommendations there - Good TV tuner card I have an AverMedia card at the moment and the software for that is just awful And getting it to work with Media Center was a pain Just want something that can plug right in and scan for channels essentially - Sound card and speakers I love good quality sound and I currently have speakers which are I want a really rich quality sound I know sound cards are generally unnecessary unless you are a sound enthusiast which I am not but I do want the best quality I can get Thank you all for any insight you can offer it s a lot I know nbsp
Here is a great place to start.
TechSpot PC Buying Guide - The Enthusiast's PC
If you would like to start by listing a few parts, there are several members here that can help you tweak the list.
You mentioned wanting built-in WiFi. I'm almost certain if you want a good motherboard, you would have to ditch that thought. A mPCIe slot is used for motherboards that come with Wifi, and they are usually only packaged with small form factor boards. I'm almost certain you don't want a small form factor for you build.
Couple days I got new a case Corsair Graphite 230T Orange. I installed mother board P8Z77-V LX, new cooler Evo212. I THINK I installed the motherboard right in the case. I had to remove 1 pin that was blocking the placement of the board.
There is 1 board mounting post that needs to be left out from time to time. I even believe I've seen phenolic, or some type of composition pins to be put in that position.
If you look carefully at you board, you may be able to spot the position, by the lack of ground tracks running to it.
Best I can do. BTW, I don't really trust any thing to do with "tinyURL" or similar links. No offense intended.
Hey guys, I'm planning to get a laptop for general stuff and gaming. It's important to me that I can play PC games that aren't too intensive graphics wise. I need a laptop that can run games like Skyrim, TF2 and some MMOs at preferably medium to high settings (but I could go for med to low). The laptop I've found is here:
ACER V5-552 15.6" Laptop
Processor: AMD A10-5757M (2.5GHz, 3.5 GHz with Turboboost, 4MB L2 cache)
Storage: I TB HDD (5400 rpm)
6 GB RAM (DDR3) Up to 12 GB installable RAM
Graphics Card: Integrated Radeon HD 8650G
OS: Windows 8(.1)
Is this going to work well with fairly easy games or could I go even more intensive for games like Crysis 3 and BF4?
Thanks for your help,
That processor is OK for gaming but the built in GPU is a little low if your expecting high settings even at 720p (With a decent framerate of course). On a game like Crysis 3 Which is so heavy on GPU's, you will likely only get low on that. As for BF4, I can say Medium 30+ FPS at that resolution. If you want a gaming grade laptop, your going to have to jump up a few notches for performance.
This is a medium-low end gaming laptop designed more for people playing not as intensive games as your listing. If you have a budget, could you list it and we will make some alternative solutions. Im assuming around $550 since newegg lists that laptop for that price, but with only 384 stream processors your not going to get far with that even at 720p except on the low settings. BF3 for instance on the 7660D (Which is just the 8650D essentially) runs at 58FPS average on low settings on a 720p monitor.
I'm having an issue with the keyboard for my Toshiba Satellite P775-S7320. Put plainly, keys have started triggering other keys, as if both keys were pressed at the same time. Nothing was spilled on the keyboard, but now, A and Tilde trigger one another, and the same for 1 and 2, Q and S, W and Tab, X and Capslock. The only exception to this is Z and \. Z will trigger \, but \ will not trigger Z. I've popped off the keys and cleaned them with compressed air, I've rebooted my computer several times, and am unsure of where to go from here.
Try hitting the NUM LK/SCRN LK key
Hi, I have a Corsair 550D and was going to get a h100i because I didn't realize I could put the H110 radiator on the side panel and have it exhausting air.
So let's say that's what I do, I have the H110 rad on the side panel exhausting air. That leaves me with the rear fan, the two top fans, the two front fans and the bottom fan. What configuration would give the best cooling with the H110 rad on the side exhausting air?
Well, mounting it on the side is an interesting choice but could work just fine. You have to remember though, hot air rises so you must keep that in mind when building your system.
If I was doing this, here is what I would do:
Front Fans Intake
Bottom fans Intake
Rear Fan Intake
Top fans Exhaust
That will keep a steady flow of cool air over your components. That in my opinion will be the best setup.
For Christmas I got another mm case fan aerocool shark rpm and I tried mounting it at the top of the case to suck out hot air as I have intakes and exhaust already but I couldn t seem to get the right screws to screw it in at the top my case aerocool fan cooling Case question strike x gt came with long screws for the top of the case but they are too thin to screw into the fan So instead I mounted the new fan on the side door on the top fan slot by the CPU as an intake and today when I played a new game that I got for Christmas BF I noticed the CPU temps would get rather hot I am using the stock intel cooler bear that in mind I was getting a max temperature of about degrees C after a roughly Case fan cooling question hour gaming session Would I benefit from making the new fan an exhaust by the CPU or would I be better off or is there a secret way of mounting a fan up there at the top as an exhaust that I son t know about as I imagine that way would be the best way to do things Also my graphics card could handle BF at all max p with FPS Thanks EDIT - To clarify I have intakes at the front one rear exhaust and the new fan as an intake on the side door by the stock CPU cooler nbsp
For Christmas I got another 120mm case fan (aerocool shark 1500 rpm) and I tried mounting it at the top of the case to suck out hot air as I have 2 intakes and 1 exhaust already but I couldn't seem to get the right screws to screw it in at the top, my case (aerocool strike x gt) came with long screws for the top of the case but they are too thin to screw into the fan. So instead I mounted the new fan on the side door on the top fan slot by the CPU as an intake and today when I played a new game that I got for Christmas (BF3) I noticed the CPU temps would get rather hot (I am using the stock intel cooler, bear that in mind) I was getting a max temperature of about 80 degrees C after a roughly 2 hour gaming session. Would I benefit from making the new fan an exhaust by the CPU or would I be better off, or is there a secret way of mounting a fan up there at the top as an exhaust that I son't know about as I imagine that way would be the best way to do things. Also my graphics card could handle BF3 at all max 1080p with 60+ FPS. Thanks. EDIT - To clarify I have 2 intakes at the front, one rear exhaust and the new fan as an intake on the side door by the stock CPU cooler.Click to expand...
With stock coolers, the fan on the intel cooler is pulling the air through the heat sink off the CPU and into the case away from it. By putting a fan blowing air down on the CPU, you are pushing the air back onto your cpu thus keeping the hot air hovering around it.
I would suggest swapping to exhaust.
I had no idea card could be some gigantic, that blows my mind, I can't wait to see the thing!
The problem is I never checked the size of the card to see if it would fit in my case, it won't.
What I would like as suggestions are names of cases long enough from front to back to fit 40cm card but no higher then 58cm as that's the height from the bottom of my desk to the top. (it does leave like half cm gap at thetop, not cool I know). If it's possible to get a case to fit the card that can also fit under my desk that would be excellent.
Edit: BTW, I'm getting a Palit Jetstream GTX 770 4GB.
Edit 2: I am actually now unsure of the length of that particular card, I keep find contradicting numbers.
I'm not sure I understand the request. Why would you need a 16 inch card slot? A 16 inch card slot would be outside of specifications.
Physical card dimensions
The original "full-size" PCI card is specified as a height of 107 mm (4.2 inches) and a depth of 312 mm (12.283 inches). The height includes the edge card connector. However, most modern PCI cards are half-length or smaller (see below) and many modern PCs cannot fit a full-size card.Click to expand...
I just got a new toshiba satellite C55-A5302 laptop and I immediately encountered a problem. The keyboard was not responding but I noticed that if I held down the key long enough then it owuld respond. I was wondering if this was a problem with the drives or if it was a factory defect or if there was any easy fix for it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
DON'T void the warranty, send it back to get it fixed.
Hi there Been Bios and problem Beep keyboard looking around the internet for answers to my problem but didn t find any My computer beeps continuously Bios Beep and keyboard problem at startup When windows loads it stops There is no pattern in the beeping My Bios in Insyde H can t get in advanced mode by the way After startup the quot sign is appearing in the logon textbox a few times And the letter d is not working Bios Beep and keyboard problem A week ago I had a lot more letters not working and also a beep at startup Used an external keyboard and disconnected the laptop keyboard from the motherboard Problems were gone So I ordered Bios Beep and keyboard problem a new laptop keyboard replaced the old one and the beeping started all over again and I m still pasting the letter d The on screen keyboard works fine Sometimes when I use a few programs simultaniously the CPU temperature gets pretty high but that has happened before did a ram test and no problems found Malwarebytes Can t find anything What else can it be I have a Packard Bell easynote tk laptop and use Windows ultimate bit Thanks in advance Tom nbsp
Anyone an idea?
I recently upgraded the memory in my fathers Laptop from the original 256Mb sim to a 2Gb sim. No problem there however the Return key and the Cursor keys seem to have stopped working even in the Bios.
I have removed the battery and held the power button in for 30secs thinking a reset of the Bios would fix the problem, no luck there they still do not function.
I have removed the keys and checked that nothing has been spilled on the keyboard, no problem there ether.
I have also checked internally to see if there was any damage to the ribbon cable. Seems fine.
To be honest I cant seem to locate the issue and was hoping someone could offer some additional support. Anybody any ideas?
Specs: Esystem EI 3101 laptop, Intel Celeron M430 1.73ghz CPU, 2Gb DDR2, Internal 256mb GFX card.
Did you try re-installing the 256MB memory to see if the keyboard started working again?
The n key had been not working properly and now it stopped all together. I took the key off and tried pressing the white piece of soft plastic but nothing shows up. Is it time to get a new keyboard or is there something else to try? It seems like such a waist to throw out a keyboard when 1/100+ keys stopped working.
Try it on another PC and see.
I'm in need of a new keyboard and am using a temporary one currently. Here is what I like
3)have good short cut keys for things like web browser and email client
4)full size and not compact
I'm on the fence about low profile keyboards, I guess they're good because they require less pressure to press a key. I enjoyed the old mechanical keyboards more than the modern ones.
So, you dont want a mechanical keyboard? Then just go with the Logitech K120. Dont pay anymore than like $20 for a membrane keyboard.
Anyone else have trouble with these fans in regards to their reliability? I bought over $100 worth of Aerocool's Shark red edition (of the 120mm and 140mm variety) case fans and a little over a year later the bearings are already starting to go. These fans seem to have a good reputation and they aren't exactly cheap, so I'm surprised that they are giving me these problems.
Two of the 120mm fans started grinding\buzzing all of the sudden and it was very annoying. A month later one of the 140mm fans started doing the same thing. This isn't something that goes away after lubrication and I can even feel it rubbing when I spin the fan manually. They utilize fluid-dynamic bearings so I would have expected them to last a lot longer.
I have these:
They are the Aerocool shark 140mm red edition (3 of them) and I've had limited problems. Two are mounted on a 140mm radiator vertically and they have had zero problems. The third is a bottom intake mounted horizontally and it's had a few minor issues. So far for me they are working fine and sounding good, the bottom one just had this odd grease appear on the fins which I cleaned off but it's still silent like the others.
I have not tried dissembling them yet, but if they are rattling, check if you can rma under warranty or try greasing them yourself.
I've got an Asus N61 notebook. The hinges decided to snap a few months ago and I got some new ones the other day. After painstakingly installing them I noticed the keyboard wasn't working properly.
Some keys are linked weirdly. If I press the d, k, or 6 key it prints 6dk. If I press the backspace or 8 key, it backspaces then prints an 8. The strangest one of all, if I press the = key, it prints an equals sign then the time and date.
The on screen keyboard works fine...
You need to re-insert the keyboard flat cable and make sure that the connector lock is properly set
I have been looking for a good keyboard for my new build. I am looking for a keyboard with mechanical keys, either cherry mx reds or cherry mx blues, I like the sound of the blues better and I am not bothered by it being noisy but I don't know how it feels, can anyone who owns either blues or reds tell me the difference and how they feel?
I have a budget of no more than £100 (tiny I know) I plan on buying it in the future. I have been looking at the corsair k60, but are there any others? I don't mind if it has LEDs in the keys, it would be a nice feature but not a deal breaker.
The CM Quickfire TK is nice, but it has MX Browns. The Corsair K65 is the updated fully mechanical version of the K60. There are also other options like the Logitech G710+ and the Razer Black Widow.
I have the Acer GN245HQ 3D monitor and I need your help to set the parameters of this screen for that I can have a good calibration of colors, and the best reactivity in game, for exemple what's the right value that I must set in the OSD, now I have the default value OSD=10.
Im using the GTX 680 graphic card.
Plz help me.
Colours are subjective to each display, so must be calibrated separately. Google around for guides.
Has anyone this problem or know how to fix it. When switch on my computer the mouse & keyboard do not work. If I then remove all the USB cables it will then work ok, after a few reboots. I am running Windows 8 64 bit. Would appreciate any advice.
I am planning to build a new machine and am wanting to start with the case,,,was wondering if I will strike any difficulties installing old hardware into a new case (apart from the front USB 3.0).
I have been looking at firstly the Gigabyte Sumo Omega here then after I found that I could not get a supplier here in Aus. Struck upon the SilverStone brand here which I should be able to purchase Downunder.
Would it be possible to install in a newer case ? (not planning on going to a smaller form factor) this current Mobo configuration GA- 8KNXPUltra FJ Ultra (with DPS) -Gigabyte-,,?
Thanks in advance
Whoa a Pentium 4:
Well yes I don't see a problem with that as the screw configs have not really changed and most cases come with tons of different screw holes for all sizes of motherboards (Its normally the Extended ATX boards that are harder to satisfy).
You should not have a problem grabbing a new case and putting your old components in, they will fit in a normal sized case with ease!
I don t how can I describe this problem detailed enough But my acer aspire G has been turning off randomly this laptop has been with me for about years now and I suspect that because of the age problems will occur I still hope that you guys can help me repair this on my own Windows vista core duo gb RAM mb video Here are the problems mainly about shutting off randomly -I will be using my laptop for the whole night and while using with no heavy applications running it will just shut off -the processor fan is running I shared this info because I suspect that its due to overheating but will still shut off -I already dismantled my laptop just to clean the fan I removed the dirt trust me I really cleaned the fan on Shutdowns, Charging Not 4935G turned Aspire Random when Acer and where the air is coming out clean still shutting off randomly -I tried putting a desktop fan under the laptop not just a usb laptop cooler but really an electric fan to remove overheating But still shuts off -now here s the weird part I play NBA k which we know is a very heavy game in terms of processing and video and RAM etc If I play NBA k it doesnt shut off Ever but if I do an alt tab to go to my desktop after a few mins it will Acer Aspire 4935G Random Shutdowns, Not Charging when turned on shut off weird thinking that shutting off will mostly occur while playing games But no it doesnt shut off while playing NBA k this is the only PC game I play -if I go to ctrl panel gt power options gt quot Acer ePower Management quot and if I adjust my CPU Speed to quot High quot and quot Maximum quot laptop will shut off in few seconds So right now my laptop is always running in quot Low quot OTHER MAJOR PROBLEMS - for example ill be using my laptop for the whole night in the morning if I plug in the laptop its charging BUT if I pressed the ON Button the charging STOPS so imagine if I dont have a battery inserted in the laptop it WONT TURN ON because its not charging -now if I put the battery and I turn on the laptop it will continue to boot BUT for as many as tries or more it wont reach my desktop because the laptop keeps shutting off AND ITS STILL NOT CHARGING Hope you guys can imagine -now my battery is like dead it doesnt last for an hour I think this is a common problem for year old laptop batteries so imagine the problem if my laptop wont charge even with the battery connected I cant turn on my laptop I just wish that the battery could hold enough power to complete the boot to windows -charging of the laptop or electricity flow will resume in the laptop after a few mins only if I make it to windows I don t know what triggers the charging But my laptop will just Start charging RANDOMLY So this is like the best condition of my laptop WHEN ITS CHARGING and NO SHUTTING OFF Occurs -everything just starts randomly in my laptop SHUTDOWNS AND CHARGING and I cant really find what triggers the SHUTDOWNS and THE CHARGING -if I remove the charger laptop will turn off battery cant hold the power so those are the problems I rEALLY HOPE THAT SOMEONE READ this and Help me repair this on my own Im not afraid to dismantle my laptop what could be the problem is it the battery the fan the charger im planning to reformat my laptop factory defaults or setting install windows but will this help is this a software problem Please help I know this is still a good laptop P S While making this post my laptop shut down TWICE I have to save this to a word file Pls Help nbsp
Turn off laptop take your battery off then hold power buttin down for 20 seconds then plug in charger with battery still off then turn laptop on . what happens ? is laptop running fine
Hey guys Excuse my lack of proper harddrive Problem WD with external case changing terminology I am new to these things Recently my gb WD external hard drive had the USB port connection on the hard drives circuit board break off So Problem with changing WD external harddrive case I went and bought a new case from my local computer shop I had originally taken my HD to see if they could solder the usb port thing back on to the circuit board but they said they don t do repairs So he looked at my HD and told me which case would be best for it I come home and follow his instructions and remove the circuit board from which the usb port fell off from which also supplied the power and connected to the SATA power port on the HD and put it in to the new housing When I connect it to my laptop it does not show up under My Computer However in my icon tray it shows a USB device has connected and it gives me the option of removing it safely I can hear the HD starting up when it gets plugged in but nothing else happens When I removed the HD from its new case and put the old circuit board bit back on and manually held the usb with the usb port connection on to the circuit board from where it came off from I am able to get it recognized by the computer and the WD software for the password prompt starts up So I know my HD is functioning I just cant get it to function in its new case Any help would be much appreciated Thank you nbsp
Is the new case powered in the same way as the old case? If yes, I would return the case.
I'm quite stuck on getting a PC case which will help with cooling. I'm looking for the best case at cooling in the £70 range. The case has to be big enough for graphic card upgrades (I currently have 5850 XFX Black Editions in crossfire). Examples of cases I've looked at are the Carbide 300R, HAF 912 Plus and Fractal Design R4. Please can anyone advise of the best case (in this class?) in the UK. I'm happy to add additional case fans to get better cooling!
MB is ATX, BTW.
Well since im going to assume air cooling I have a couple of options that I personally like for those types of systems:
NZXT Phantom Mid Tower
Corsair 400R or the 300R are both great options
There are many more but those are a few near your price point I recommend. I like the NZXT Phantom cases the most because of their room, expandability, and overall sleek look.
Hello, I went through the process of cleaning my mouse while the monitor was off and I'm fairly sure I clicked something maybe I shouldn't have but after that the whole keyboard was messed up..
E shows up as ]
D shows up as ''
Esc, start, [ , n, y, I, F1-F12 keys don't register, among a few others..
Things I've tried so I don't waste anyones time.. [Windows 7]
Changed Location, Keyboard Layout (English - US) is the only language
Ctrl - Shift x1/2, Alt - Shift x1/2, and pretty much any other variant I could think of.
Plugged another keyboard in, same thing.
Plugged keyboard in another computer, works like a charm.
Restarted, plugged and unplugged. Uninstalled and tried to update driver..
Nothing worked so far, hopefully you can can make something happen.
Thanks in advance.
My problem bit weird... when I right click for 3 times, my keyboard automatically press C
You may find the Microsoft links below helpful in troubleshooting the issue you are facing with the keyboard.
Troubleshoot wired keyboards that don't respond or that type wrong characters: http://dell.to/14W22jO
Troubleshoot keyboard problems: http://dell.to/16LljuT
Please reply with details of system model and operating system if you have further queries.
Thanks and regards,
For easy access to drivers, manuals and product updates, please visit ourSupport Site .
Got aspire 7520 series notebook, who wont boot but on boot flashes caps lock 2 times need to find what problem indicates two blinks
Remove the battery and connect the AC adapter only... does it then boot?
My iphone 4S can not support whole day use as the battery nearly drain .
So I searched iphone 4S external battery in amazon and find Plush cartoon toys power banks AD below. The price is 29.99$ a little expensive as its 5200mAh. T
http://amazon.com/Constellations-Thunderbolt-Incredible-Blackberry-Fashionable/dp/B00DJ3DZK2 (avoild link, delet url space when past in IE)
Also I found a external battery case here :
The battery capacity is only 1700mAh but can be used as a case protector for iphone 4s
Which one I should bought or
do anyone find the similar high capacity like 10000mAh but cheaper one in ebay buy.com or amazon and other place?
Before you invest in more equipment, try to reduce power consumption (see this)
I am having an issue with the sound on my laptop. It will play videos and music, but at some point the sound just....freezes. It is like when a CD has a scratch and it plays the same two words over and over again. Most of the time the screen is not frozen and I can click to exit out or shut the computer down. The sound, however, does not stop when I shut it down or unplug it. It only stops when I remove the battery. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I have an Acer Aspire 5332 and this used to happen to me but when it used to happen I would open up task manager, go to processes and find explorer.exe, then I would click it click end process then go to the applications tab and click new task, then just type in explorer.exe this fixed it for me and it happened for a while but went away on it's own. Hope this helps you.
When I am typing on my laptop, there is a delay when typing letters. Sometimes I have to go back and retype because the keyboard hesitates or displays letters in a delay mode. For example: if type "help" I may have typed the 4 characters but only see "he"
Name of laptop, OS, & any more info would sure be helpful.
I read online that some people, while making their server build, had to drill holes in the case's back plate or just buying another case. I was just wondering if with this case and motherboard, I would have to drill holes because I know that with server motherboards there isn't really a standard. Thanks to anyone who helps out!
You need to find a rack that can support E-ATX motherboards (extended ATX). Do you need a rack? Or is this just a workstation?
What the title says. I am looking for the best air mover for the lowest sound in that range. Im not expecting close to the best I can get at all.
I dont care about sound THAT much, but my PC now gets rather loud under load and I just want to make sure a bunch of fans (5 or 6) wont contribute to noise.
Oh and also, I just want 2 blue LED ones-im getting a corsair C70 and that already comes with 3 fans so I should be plenty set after that
I recommend these:
Cooler Master JetFlo 120
Enermax Vegas Duo - Haven't tried this, but people say it is a good fan. It has 2 colors also.
These are cheaper, but more noisy options:
Rosewill RFA-120-BL - recommended over the CM one below
Cooler Master 120MM Blue LED
I am curious if this has happened to anybody else. I have a logitech wireless keyboard and mouse hooked up to a three year old HP notebook that is then fed through my 46" Sony flat screen. My wife was on the internet when she noticed the keyboard stopped working. As she was trying to get it working her wrist touched the wrist rest on the bottom of the keyboard and it was so hot it burned her. She called me asking what to do. I said take the batteries out so she flipped it over and then noticed the battery door was starting to melt. She pried it open with a knife and popped out the batteries with said knife. One of the batteries was still very hot half an hour later when I got home. Thank God we were home. I hate to think what could have happened.
I've never heard of that happening, but I always use wired ones so they only come on when the computer does!!!
Hey there everyone I am looking to buy a nice keyboard reccomendation Mechanical mechanical keyboard to use for gaming and such The problem is is that I am lost on what I should get and what switches are best for me Currently I have a wireless logitec keyboard and I am sick of it it misses a bunch of keystrokes it has a very squishy feel the the keypresses and it runs on triple A batteries which is quite a hassle I am unable to experience or feel all the different switch Mechanical keyboard reccomendation types for preference but I can only imagine how they would feel for example blue is like a mouseclick brown is like a mouseclick except you can press it further than it has too and black and red are smooth key hits except black takes more force if I am correct I feel as if I would prefer blue or brown the most because of the easy feedback it gives and it would be probably easier for me to break into I also know that ps wire is the best for key rollovers rather than usb and my computer does support ps I am looking for a nice keyboard between - dollars that suites its purpose is durable and a little eye candy wouldn t hurt either I am eyeing Mechanical keyboard reccomendation this one right now what do you people think of it http www newegg com Product Product aspx Item N E nbsp
Here are some options:
Coolermaster Quickfire XT
Razer Black Widow 2013
Corsair Raptor K50
There are plenty more options, but these are the best.
Alright, as the title explains, my computer won't use any form of headset's mic, like at all. Not even its own built in mic, please halp, and I know not **** about computers, so if you could like, explain in ******* terms, I would be incredibly grateful. It might help that I'm a computer gamer, so this would be awesome if you guys would help me. Thank you!
Ive got an acer notebook that dosent like to turn on it will sometimes and when it dose it normally gose in to hibernation you can then get it to turn back on buy pushing the power buton but I gose back to hibernation after 2mins or less I have tryed dischageing the system I need to get it runnig for a project im doing plz help any help apreciated and thanks in advance also I dont no what verstion it is all I no it was bought new in 2008
So here is my problem screen Aspire problem Acer 5920G with Acer Aspire G Acer Aspire 5920G screen problem also I don t understand much about computers bear with me One night I turn off my laptop like normaly the next morning I turn it on for a surprise The screen remained pitch black even though I could clearly hear windows boot up along with other programs like skype popping up Pressed a few random keys and thought I should restart Same thing no reaction from the screen what so ever but I can still clearly hear windows starting up So I browse the internet and here s what I ve tried - I removed the battery held the power button for a while re-inserted the battery turn it back on gt No help - I switch my RAM cards with one another gt Doesn t work - Turn it on and point a flashlight at the screen to check the backlight nada - I check if the magnet for detecting if the screen is up or down is working and it is when I lower my screen it goes to hybernate mode boots up if I click something - I plugged in an external monitor new and functional and press the switch screen button combo but its not reacting the external monitor stays black too It doesn t flicker or anything its giving off no signs of life but I m puzzled because if the screen died it should clearly work on an external monitor which it doesn t Has anyone encountered a problem like this Any ideas on how I might fix it myself and even if I can I m still wondering about what it might be before I send it out to find out the repairs are too expensive I d rather buy a new one nbsp
Try running one memory at a time... first one module, then the other..
Then test with a different hard drive, to see if you can boot to an install screen with your recovery disk...
Any help would be great.. I have just started a fresh copy of widows xp and during the installation setup my keyboard has stopped working... Got through entering the key but with 33 minutes remaining and stuck at the screen ( personalize your software ) thing have gone bad..I have no keyboard function and can only use a mouse when plugged in... Oh forgot to say its a Acer Aspire 3000 laptop.. Thanks in Advance
Hello Thanks for reading and I know this problem has been on here one too many times but im just very curious as to asking these certain questions before progressing onto what I think I should do My problem is that I New signal. Card. nonfunctional No Mouse and Keyboard recently bought a HIS IceQ mainly for the cooling system it comes with Now I had installed it carefully no static shocks nothing like that into my PC Now when I boot it up I get no signal and my keyboard and mouse are New Card. No signal. Keyboard and Mouse nonfunctional getting NO power at all Now the curious part my pc came with a HD Thats it No VGA output on my motherboard Which makes me think do I need to change something in BIOS Does my PC only detect that because it came with it And yes I plugged in the PCIe power connecters too Now to what I think I should do based on reading through the forums Cmos Reset New PSU And thats basically it Here is a detailed Spec list Name HPE Phoenix HD gb DDR AMD FX Ghz x Ram DDR ThermalTake TR w PSU Motherboard is a Gigabyte AC model BIOS is AMI Ang TB hardrive ANY help is very much appreciated Ive been on this problem for a while now Thanks nbsp
Sounds like a bad connection somewhere. Make sure everything is properly fitted and in the right place. When you replaced the GPU - Is that the only component you unplugged and removed? Try putting in the old card to see if it works. If it does, you could have a bad GPU.
My old wireless setup finally crapped out so thought I d try Bluetooth with the longer range One thing I didn t know about Bluetooth at least with this particular keyboard and mouse to a small extent is that after a brief period of inactivity it unconnects or deactivates or whatever and to reactive it I have to type a key and then wait for seconds or more for it to come alive Very irritating especially like when I m trying to sign into something or am Bluetooth problems Keyboard working Bluetooth Keyboard problems on something I ve looked in the app and don t see anything where I can turn that off I don t mind replacing the rechargeable batteries more often if I can avoid that deactivating thing Any suggestions or am I just stuck with that Maybe back to quot old fashioned quot wireless At least those were quot always on quot or Bluetooth Keyboard problems whatever you d call it It s a Microsoft mobile keyboard and mouse There was a small install CD that came with them I don t know if the dongle would make any difference Thanks nbsp
Well, on the hopes there was something in the Bluetooth app that I missed, I went back and took another look.
Not much there, really. But I enabled Bluetooth Network (even tho I only have the BT keyboard and mouse and no other BT devices) and enabled sharing with other BT devices (I guess between the keyboard and mouse and dongle or ?).
None of those seemed particularly applicable when I looked at them before, but
whichever one of those did something, I did a test on the keyboard and at least
yet it hasn't shut off even waiting several minutes.
Actually, would be nice if everything PC / Windows would be that simple!
Whenever I type on my Logitech G510, it doesn't type any characters but when I press "f" it'll bring up recent searches and responds, I'll edit as soon as I'm able to test the keyboard on a different computer, do any of you have any Ideas? When I go into device manager it shows that the device is responding correcting and is not reporting any issues.
EDIT: The keyboard is functioning on another computer.
Restart your computer. You have a stick key problem. I forgot what exactly it is called and how to cure it without restarting since I had this issue, but it was a while ago.