Recently my T has been overheating and shuttind down after a few hours of browser usage I believed this was due to a heating problem so I finally got under the keyboard today only to find little to no dust or after shuts seconds power approx. on T410 20 down debris clogging up the heatsink fan Just to be safe T410 shuts down approx. 20 seconds after power on I hit it with the compressed air again After reassembling the laptop now shutdown after a short period of being powered on This shutdown happens regardless of me getting into windows loading or getting into the BIOS setup I think this too may be an overheating problem as I see and hear the fan spinning up harder before the sudden shutdown nbsp nbsp I've tried everything from running with only the AC in only one ram card in holding the power button for seconds prior to actually powering up etc Is there any more troubleshooting I should preform or should I just accept the fact I'm better off handing this to a repair professional nbsp nbsp Side note After reassemble I had screws that didn't fit anywhere on the exterior casing maybe I mistook a screw placement and now it's somehow short circuitinghttps://forums.lenovo.com/t5/ThinkPad-T400-T500-and-newer-T/T410-shuts-down-approx-20-seconds-after-power-on/td-p/3376043
I recommend downloading and running Reimage. It's a computer repair tool that has been proven to identify and fix many Windows problems with a high level of success.
I've used it in the past to identify and fix everything from blue screens (BSOD's), ActiveX errors, corrupt files and processes, dll/exe/sys errors, recover lost memory, Windows update problems, defragging, malware removal etc.
You can download it direct from this link http://downloadreimage.com/directdownload.php. (This link will automatically start a download of Reimage that you can save to your computer.)
Power outage due to storm. Came back on without pictures and documents. It's an HP desktop. Would a file recovery program work? I've tried some of the instructions online, but they don't work.
Oh mary; I feel your pain. Were the pics within one folder and now they're ALL missing?
My laptop wont power on at all.
No charge light.
No light when power is pressed.
Was working fine yesterday.
Have tried battery and charger from identical working laptop to no avail.
Any ideas? I can usually fix laptops etc but if it wont power on at all I'm lost.
Did you try removing the battery and AC adapter and holding down the power button for 30 seconds. Then re-installing the battery and try booting again?
Hello I am new to building the pcs so I am afraid I may have fried mine I really am pry I did not but this is what happened I finish tower Power will not work button My the pc and My tower Power button will not work when I turned on the power supply the power button on the motherboard glowed so then I pressed my tower button and nothing worked so then I re setup he F PANEL cords u know the pwr switch and all that jazz turns out it was set up wrong so I put them in right and tried to turn on the computer again the power button on the motherboard turns on but not my towers power button and so my pc will not officially turn on I am guessing and I am worried that I may have fryed my pc because when I took out the f panlle cords I realized my pc was still on and turned it off immanently and I am afraid that may have fryed the motherboard if anyone can help me it would be wonderful I am freaking out and have no Idea what the problem thank you for reading P S My tower button does not making a clicking sound when you push it I am not sure if that normal or it is broken or somthing it just doesnt make any click sounds nbsp
You could have a defective power switch on the PC case. Test this by using the reset switch as a temporary power switch. The power switch and the reset switch are the same for practical purposes except, of course, the size of the button (on most cases). If the reset switch works and is able to start the PC, then you know the power switch is defective.
I have an older eMachines Desktop PC model EL1360G which has a 200 watt power supply.
I would like to upgrade it to at least a 400 watt power supply.
Does anyone have a suggestion as to where or what I should buy? I watched a few videos on youtube on how to do the replacement but how do I know all the plugs on the new unit are the same and will fit? Because if they don't, I'll be more confused than I already am.
Check and make sure all the connectors are the same as the ones you have
I'm not certain if the image above is what you have but I'm thinking it is.
Image above looks to have:
1x 20pin+4pin (ATX Power)
1x 4pin (P4)
2x SATA power
Does your power supply have these and only these?
This happened couple days ago when my laptop started to act like crazy.. It used to freeze but two days ago it shuts down when I'm in the middle of doing something like Photoshop.. It even shut down while posting this thread once..
I thought it'd be a problem with the windows so I installed a fresh one but yet the problem is not solved..
And after some search on internet I came up with some apps like HDD and CPUID Monitor and here's a snapshot of the scan, and I wish someone of TECHSPOT family would help, that'll be so much appreciated..
Hi guys, new here...I'm setting up a new pc, sooo a few questions here.
I'm planning on getting an Asus A88XM-plus motheboard, Amd X4 860K cpu and Sapphire R9 280 3GB video card...so how much power supply would be enough...450-500W?..would 650 be an overkill? Is all of this fully compatible?
Do I need a sound card, modem or special cooling or something? ( I already have 2*8gb Ram sticks and HDD, don't really need DVD drive).
I'm also thinking in between Antec 902 V3 case and a lot cheaper LC Power Gaming 975b Air wing Midi...how much quality difference is there in between these two?
Also, how much improvement is there in between this card and my current one, sapphire r7 265 2gb?
Are there anything that you would exchange for something else...I'm on a tight budget, but I don't mind spending a few extra bucks if it be worth in the long run.
Thanks in advance.
Hey Techspot I m hoping you can help me out with a little problem I ve lot down a suddenly Laptop shuts started experiencing I got a Lenovo G just last year and everything s been going great with it so far However as of about a day ago it decides Laptop suddenly shuts down a lot to start shutting down without any warning whatsoever It seems that this happens at random also Some times I can keep the laptop on overnight I like to have videos playing while I sleep with no problems and other times it snaps off after not even minutes Thus I can t really finish a scan with avast or malwarebites I haven t done anything out of the ordinary either I don t know if it s really overheating because I keep it in a similar environment as my Toshiba laptop that has remained on around the same amount of time with no overheating whatsoever I m running Windows on my Lenovo EDIT I thought that my problem was in fact overheating so I cleaned the fan area with some compressed air That seems to help a little bit but my computer still has a tendency to shut down randomly just a lot less frequently I checked the temperature with SpeedFan and upon startup my core temp is as high as C then cools off to about C when I m doing nothing The thing that worries me is that SpeedFan can detect no RPMs from my fan Fan Fan and Fan all show RPMs in the program nbsp
Chances are the thermal pads or the thermal paste on the CPU/video chip needs replacing
Microsoft showed off a whole range of new PCs and devices running Windows 10 at Computex 2015, but one that really caught the eye is the Quanta Compute Plug, an entire PC integrated into a power plug the size of...
They may be handy to a lot and even have very reasonable prices but I can't imagine myself ever wanting any of these.
Hi, Guys (And Gals) I'm attempting my 1st PC build and HAVE used the various online power supply calculators... however I'd like to hear some feedback from you all. No matter where I look online I always like to come here to be sure. My specs for the build are as follows:
MoBo: GIGABYTE GA-F2A68HM-H FM2+ USB 3.0 MATX
Amd A6 5400K 3600Mhz Blk Edt 1mb 65w Socket FM2
Video Card: XFX RADEON R7 240 2GB DDR3 LOW PROFILE
RAM: ADATA XPG V1 DDR3 1600 4GB
HDD: Seagate 1TB Serial ATA HD 7200/64MB/SATA-6G
I would really like to use one of the 350W or 400W power supply I stripped from my previous PC's. I'm thinking of hooking it to an HDMI or VGA projector eventually though (Haven't bought it yet) Can I get away with one of these and play a game like World of Warcraft? or do I need to order something like the
SolidGear 650W PS2 ATX Power Supply on Tiger Direct?
Thanks in advance for any advice & thoughts
Over engineer the PS;
Calculate the actual needed power,
add a fudge factor and
multiply by 1.5.
Then round up to the next commonly available size
Here's the situation. I have this old mITX computer I built a few years ago that I'd like to hook up to Dad's big-screen TV so he can Skype from his living-room. Problem is, the computer is VGA only and his TV is HDMI only. The MoBo has just one PCI (not PCIe) slot with a maximum output of 75watts.
I tried a PCI video card with HDMI output, but the slot couldn't drive the card. Didn't even detect it.
I believe DVI uses less power (the cards are definitely cheaper), and I could just use a simple DVI-to-HDMI cable. A native HDMI port would be better. As long as it works, I don't care. But w/o an external power input, the card can't draw more than 75watts from the PCI slot.
Anyone know of a card that fits this very specific bill? Thx.
ADDENDUM: PC only has a tiny 300watt PSU.
Check this one out: Zotac GeForce GT 610
It is a PCI Card (non express) that has DVI / VGA / HDMI. It is also a Low Profile and requires a 300w power supply or higher. It looks like it should work with your situation.
I recently moved my computer from one side of my desk to the other and somehow it managed to make it so when I press the power button nothing happens. I've disassembled and reassembled the computer numerous times and tested the psu. The psu is working and it seems like the motherboard is the culprit. What is confusing me the most is that when I short the 24 pin connector to the motherboard then plug it in if I also press the power button I can turn on the computer. I dont see that as a permanent fix just in case it sleeps and I assume it is not good for the computer so I am looking for help on how to permanently fix my issue. Thanks in advance.
Hello I need to connect power/reset buttons to dell optiplex 620, but I just can't connect them anywhere on motherboard.
I need help as fast as possible
I've got FSP Aurum Pro 1200W.
What UPS should I buy for that power supply if we assume that it has 100% workload?
See watts to KVA calc: http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/watt-to-kva-calculator.htm
issue: what is the power factor?
hint: PF ~ 0.75
HI, I was wondering if it is safe to use an atx psu on a motherboard with an eatx power connector. The motherboard has a 24-pin eatx and a 4-pin atx 12v connector. I bought the motherboard and started using an atx psu and everything seems to work ok then realized after it was an eatx power connector on the motherboard. Are there eatx psu's? Thanks
EATX is a form factor (12"x13") not a power connector. I'm assuming you are talking about using a PSU with a 20 pin (old ATX) connector with a newer motherboard that has a 24 pin (current ATX) connector. If that is the case you will need to consult your motherboard's manual. Some 24 pin boards run fine with only 20 pins some don't. The issue is that each pin in only rated to carry a certain amount of current (Amps). If you overload one of these pins your risk burning or melting the ATX connector on either the PSU, Motherboard, or both.
I want to learn how to manage ARM processor power management with LINUX (for example the Cortex-A53 MP Core).
Can someone recommend literature, a tutorial or web based information?
Thank you in advance
I was given a year old Corsair power supply XMPSU- TX-C I wanted to make sure it Questionable Power Corsair Supply s working right before plugging it to a motherboard So I did the paper clip power on trick and all the voltages were ok I proceeded to connect just one harddrive The harddrive spins up and then Corsair Power Supply Questionable makes a revving noise every second as if its powering down and back up repeatedly Also theres a green LED light on the harddrive that blinks normally its a solid on This doesn t happen every time I cycle the power supply however When the harddrive powers up properly the LED light is constantly on and rpm is constant I tried two other harddrive with the same outcome The problem is definitely intermittent I connected all three harddrives with the same results I tried the same setup with two other power supplies with no issues at all I am now sure the issue is specific with the Corsair power supply Is it because there s not enough load on all rails making the power supply unstable The AC current draw was only mA so it wasn t the overcurrent protection kicking in The V line was steady Corsair Power Supply Questionable but the V line fluctuated a few hundredths of a volt in unison Corsair Power Supply Questionable with the harddrive revving The V line was steady when the harddrive powers up normally I m hesitant to connect a full computer to this Anyone have an idea before I try to RMA the power supply Is this just a peculiarity of this model nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/corsair-power-supply-questionable.209459/
I am looking to get a new graphics card for my computer because atm it has integrated graphics, which as most of you know sucks. The power supply is 250W which I doubt would be enough to have a whole new graphics card implemented. The model is p6166f. The mother board has this for a graphics card slot PCI express 16x GPU. Please give me suggestions, I am looking to spend approximately 150 - 200 $ total.
We need to know who made your system. How old is your system?
So I've been thinking about upgrading my GPU from a GTX 760 2gb to a GTX 980 but I'm not sure if I have to buy a new Power Supply aswell. I'm using a 650W power supply.
My specs are: MSI motherboard(forgot the name), 8GB ram DDR3, SSD 200GB, HDD 1TB, DVD-RW, 2 120mm fans + the CPU fan , a core i5 4670k (3.40 ghz) and the gtx 760 itself.
Try this out; http://www.extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp
my laptop HP g61 does not power on either with battery or when connected to the mains supply(AC). whenever i press the power botton the battery lit in the front of the system will only blink for about 3 seconds without the system been power on(the fan,the keyboard light nor the power botton lit will not on) i try to remove the battery nd press the power button for 30 secs before putting it back,still their is no respond. but i discovered each time i remove the battery and plug it to the Mains,the indicator power light beside the plug of the system will lit for about 3 seconds before it went off again.i have checked it with another charging adapter all to no avail. pls ,help me out.
Perhaps you have one of those infernal HP laptop motherboard problems? How old is your HP g61, and have you kept the cooling channels free of lint and dust? How old is the hard drive?
Since it doesn't work from a battery or from wall power, you should have an experienced tech take a look.
First thing I would do is remove the hard drive, so you can rescue the data if need be.
Then I would remove the battery, and try again from the Mains. If nothing, then there is some real work ahead. Consider this a major failure in that case, and get expert help to take a look.
I doubt there is a quick fix.
Please keep us informed as to what you learn and what helped get your HP G61 back up and running.
I come here in need of some help I ve been troubleshooting this issue for quite some time and have not been able games goes while few a for seconds playing Screen black to find the solution on my own The issue Sometimes when I play games my screen Screen goes black for a few seconds while playing games will go black at a random time for a a period of time sometimes only lasting - seconds other times lasting up to a minute and then recovers itself and I m able to continue playing The sound continues playing during the black outs but I have no control of my computer Can t see anything and cannot use commands like ctrl alt del Sometimes when my computer recovers from the black screen I can hear the fans on my GPU boost up to about I have setting in MSI afterburner to Screen goes black for a few seconds while playing games increase my fan speeds as the temperature of my card goes up Sometimes when recovering from a black screen my fans will go up from to like Then it stays at for the remainder of the time until I reset my computer Once my computer is reset my card will run at the again Background and computer information This issue did not start happening until I installed and new graphics card and reinstalled windows The GPU was tested before I reinstalled windows and everything ran perfect no blackouts I reinstalled windows because I got an SSD here are my specs as of now CPU FX- MOBO Asrock Extreme RAM gb DDR and gb DDR SSD gb w windows installed on it GPU Radeon r upgraded from a radeon which ran perfect PSU w Corsair few last things to add that may be helpful - I have not experienced any black screens when using my computer and not playing games - I typically play low-end games like league of legends which aren t too intensive on the gpu - When I load into the UEFI my RAM displays as all sticks running at MHz Even though of my sticks are - my gpu has never gone over degrees since ive installed it so I dont think its an over-heating issue If you need any other information let me know and ill be happy to provide it Any help will be EXTREMELY appreciated I m going crazy right now because I can t figure this thing out lol Thanks so much - Nick nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/screen-goes-black-for-a-few-seconds-while-playing-games.207781/
I know we had a thread on this in April of last year but what I really want is a poll so I can quickly see the numbers. What I'm trying to see is how many people are running 3 core machines and how many people have 6 core procs. Keep in mind I want to know actually cores, not the number of simultaneous threads you can run. Also, if you're using a multiprocessor machine please add up your cores. Also, if you have a triple core machine but it's not your primary I would appreciate it if you would post so in the thread.
Work related question or just curiosity?
I run 2 cores now in almost everything I physically use. I have a single core system that runs and does stuff for me nearly 24/7, but I almost never sit in front of it.
Hello It may seem like a simple problem but I know nothing of the subject and I ve had the problem for ages Whenever I copy large files Movie size think MB the copy progresses very remaining" drives "5 sec Copying to/from stuck before for flash on 30 finishing seconds fast MB s until it reaches about where it gets stuck for about seconds to a minute and it says quot Time remaining seconds quot during all that time I have this problem with any flash drive in any USB port amp It also happens when copying to network drives and external harddrives which leads me to think it s a software windows issue Some vital information Copying to/from flash drives stuck on "5 seconds remaining" for 30 sec before finishing The flash drive I mainly use is USB quite new and easily capable of MB s writing speeds It reaches about - MB s during the copy until the final point where it still says MB s but does nothing for seconds USB port is also and I ve also tried every single other port in my computer None are broken and none ever show any signs of being slow The flash drive is NTFS formatted but it used to be FAT I ran checkdisk to see if there was anything wrong but there wasn t It s NTFS since I occasionally need files gt GB I tried using TeraCopy to bypass the issue but this way doesn t reach speeds of over MB s which takes even longer in the end It does fix the hanging at issue I tried converting the drive back to FAT which removes the issue of it hanging at but again the speed doesn t go above MB s which means it takes longer in the end making it not worth it What bothers me is that the files transfer at the maximum speed right until the very end where it just magically gets stuck for seconds or more before finishing like nothing happened Please advise P S I shamefully have to admit I never safely remove my hardware nbsp
It may seem like a simple problem, but I know nothing of the subject and I've had the problem for ages.
Whenever I copy large files (Movie size, think 700MB+), the copy progresses very fast (~100MB/s) until it reaches about 99% where it gets stuck for about 30 seconds to a minute, and it says "Time remaining: 5 seconds" during all that time.
I have this problem with any flash drive, in any USB port (2 & 3). It also happens when copying to network drives and external harddrives, which leads me to think it's a software/windows issue.
Some vital information:
The flash drive I mainly use is USB 3.0, quite new and easily capable of ~150MB/s writing speeds. It reaches about 120-130 MB/s during the copy until the final point where it still says 130 MB/s but does nothing for 30 seconds.
USB port is also 3.0, and I've also tried every single other port in my computer. None are broken, and none ever show any signs of being slow.
The flash drive is NTFS formatted, but it used to be FAT32. I ran checkdisk to see if there was anything wrong, but there wasn't. It's NTFS since I occasionally need files >4GB.
I tried using TeraCopy to bypass the issue, but this way doesn't reach speeds of over 20MB/s which takes even longer in the end. It does fix the 'hanging at 99% issue'.
I tried converting the drive back to FAT32, which removes the issue of it hanging at 99%, but again the speed doesn't go above 20MB/s which means it takes longer in the end, making it not worth it.
What bothers me is that the files transfer at the maximum speed right until the very end, where it just magically gets stuck for 30 seconds or more, before finishing like nothing happened.
P.S.: I shamefully have to admit I never safely remove my hardware. Click to expand...
Although I've had the same happen on my downloads, this "P.S.: I shamefully have to admit I never safely remove my hardware." could be part of the problem, good luck.
I m a tech with years of IT experience PSU. power bad Still or motherboard a won't up Not and I ve built my fair share of computers over the years I have a puzzling one I cannot get to Not a bad motherboard or PSU. Still won't power up the bottom of I m afraid I cannot for the life of me Not a bad motherboard or PSU. Still won't power up get this computer to power on Here is a list of things I ve tried and or eliminated The first thing to happen was quite strange The computer would start when I first got it it was a used system but only after a few presses of the power button I don t ever remember it powering up on the first press of the power button It s an Intel DX BT Extreme Series motherboard with a bit Intel CPU in it GB of RAM FYI the motherboard has a aux power on off switch ON the motherboard itself used for testing at the labs - the manual recommends using the front panel switch however obviously Current state the computer will not turn on at all There are two LED s by the CPU that are for indicating a voltage regulator overheating and the CPU overheating When I hit the power switch the VR Regulator LED blinks quickly once and that is all Ok here goes - Tested PSU came back fine Decided to use that PSU in another system to double check would not boot up in the nd system I replaced the PSU with a good one I know that works of even higher wattage Still doesn t boot up - Tried using onboard power switch same result Tried using the reset switch as a power switch same result so the switches are likely OK I even removed all front panel switch connectors and tried to jumper the two power pins using a flathead screwdriver Still doesn t boot up no power only a solid green light on the mobo when power is plugged in - Reseated all RAM sticks although a system should still POST if a stick is bad as well as CPU same result - Replaced RAM with RAM I know works Same clock speed compatible with this motherboard Again if it s RAM it shouldn t prevent the fans from spinning - Replaced CPU with a good one same socket factor Still no powering up - Removed all other hardware USB cables video card speaker connector drives etc same result - Also replaced the fan with a non-OEM intel fan that has a higher RPM and draws more air - Tried replacing thermal paste on the premise that since the VR reg is showing it s overheating hopefully this would do something - Replaced CMOS battery Same result After testing just about everything I came to the conclusion that it must be a bad motherboard What Yeah a faulty Intel motherboard I ve never heard of such a thing So I RMA ed the board and got the new on in the mail How puzzled was I when the same exact thing happened Words can t describe Solid green light when power cord is plugged in VR light flashes BTW the green light is a V Standby Power Indicator Now in the manaul it states that these lights CPU amp VR LED s will flash when they re indicating a fault not blink once So I tried all the steps again nothing I have replaced every piece of hardware I can think of with good hardware and am still getting the same result - a flashing VR regulator LED Intel has no support for this and the people I ve spoken with at tech support at Intel are stumped My only thought left is a grounding issue which would seem strange to me since the problem gradually got worse that is taking more presses of the power button to power on then eventually no response I am going to switch cases and see if that s the problem If that fails I am out of troubleshooting steps - I ve literally replaced EVERYTHING inside and outside the computer Again to reiterate these are the things that have remained constant in both motherboards original and RMA ed Solid green V Standby Power Indicator Flash of the VR LED when applying power I have replaced every component with the exception of the case and the standouts which I believe have grounding rings on the threads Any ideas nbsp
Speaking of shorts, try pulling the motherboard out of the case. Place it on a non-static, non-conducting surface and leaving in the CPU, heatsink/fan, only hook up the PSU, RAM and graphics card, see if will post.
My Acer Aspire shuts down loses power - seconds after powering on It started when I was playing a Acer laptop after seconds down shuts video game and the laptop suddenly shut down I thought it was overheating so I let it cool down About an hour later I Acer laptop shuts down after seconds turned it on and it boot normally but min later the laptop shut down again Next time I tried it turned off minutes then seconds later In those s after pressing the power button no errors or beeps occur just the Acer logo screen I even get past Acer logo sometimes or go to Bios password prompt if i press F just before laptop powers off Acer laptop shuts down after seconds This all happened in the course of a few hours laptop was working fine beforehand no overheating think so cause games lagged when laptop was overheating previously If I turn it on again just after it powered off the laptop shuts down in seconds as opposed to seconds if i leave it alone for a while Also according to task manager CPU and RAM usage is normal when shut down happens Tried Cleaning out the fan and the heat sink wasn t that much dust Fan works Applying new silver thermal grease to CPU and GPU after removing the old one Powering on with only one RAM stick then only the other black screen when I take out both Powering on without Wifi card Powering on without the battery only on AC power Then only with the battery in Powering on without Hard Drive Powering on while putting pressure to the middle of the keyboard read that this might pop the CMOS battery to it s slot if that s the problem Pressing the power button for min There are a lot of people with Acer Aspire who have powering on and off in endless loop problem Supposedly GPU reflow helps I don t think my problem is the same though because my laptop shuts down and doesn t restart Also my screen is working This is the only computer I have Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated nbsp
Are you able to run Memtest for any length of period? Search for YUMI Multiboot. Download that, install it to a spare USB stick. Download memtest from yumi program. Boot off of stick and run memtest.
If not get a new motherboard/cpu off ebay.
Hello everyone - I have just assembled a new build It will not power up I need a suggestion to figure out if the problem is the case or the motherboard This is a mini-itx build power-up: power New or Build MB? no supply case's The case is New Build no power-up: case's power supply or MB? Linkworld LC - B This case comes with a volt watt external laptop-style power supply that plugs into the rear of the case just like New Build no power-up: case's power supply or MB? a laptop power supply plugs into a laptop - a barrel connector Inside this power connection connects to a power supply component that is not like a regular ATX power supply but is on a printed-circuit board New Build no power-up: case's power supply or MB? mounted on the case This has several capacitors and other stuff From that comes the -pin and -pin power supply lines for the motherboard I assume the -volt power supply for this external power supply unit is right since it came with the case It was watt The processor is an IBM t with TDP of watts Lower-powered CPUs can be put in a small so I assumed the power supply might be under-powered I ordered a -watt volt power supply with the right size barrel - and same polarity pos inside The MB is an ASRock H MV-ITX It is mini-itx form factor Still same problem Everything is connected correctly When I press the power-on button an external CD drive I have plugged-in spins up for a while But no power light comes on in the front of the case there are no POST beeps the fan for the CPU does not spin up No other signs of life So power is getting into the MB - the external CD drive is plugged into a USB socket in the rear panel of the MB After trying a watt and watt power supply I believe the problem cannot be the power supply cord Can it be that I have too little load I don t think so I plugged in another mm fan and an ol-fashion floppy drive just the power connection to add more load - same thing no power-up no POST nothing but the CD drive will spin up when I open-then-close it yet again So here is the help I need what else can I try -assuming the MB and case are fine is it more likely the case power supply is bad or the MB --Thanks nbsp
Well, I figured out the problem.
I am planning to re-do the older mini-itx system I have; it has gotten riddled with Trojan software for kids downloading games; it basically has been de-commissioned already.
So, I took the pico-psu power supply from that older computer, and hooked it up to the one I am making. Everything went perfectly.
So, I un-did that, removed the MB from case, disconnected the barrel-power connection from the case, unscrewed and removed the power supply that had been mounted in the case, put the pico-psu power supply back in place (I had to drill the hole for the barrel-connection out to be a little bigger since the pico-psu internal/external connection is threaded and held in place by nut with lock washer), and routed wires to be clear of cpu fan, screwed MB to stand-offs, and closed it all up.
now, everything is great. I like this linkworld case, but the power supply is worthless. I may try to get a few dollars back from the ebay vendor, to make me happy with a case that is less than what I should have gotten, but is working for me; I don't want to wait on returns, etc.
My new build wont power on all I hear is a few high pitch sounds coming from what I think is the psu.
SSD 128GB SAMSUNG 850 Pro
1TB HDD (from previous build it was working fine 2 days ago)
2TB HDD(from previous build it was working fine 2 days ago)
GPU = GTX 680 2GB (from previous build it was working fine 2 days ago) MSI GTX 970 GAMING 4G GeForce GTX 970 4GB 256-Bit on it's way in the mail.
Case is pretty old and doesnt have a lid but it was working fine with my pervious buid)
PSU = CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750W ATX12V v2.31/ EPS12V v2.92 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC High Performance Power Supply (from previous build it was working fine 2 days ago)
Heatsink = Scythe Ashura Universal Processor Cooler
CPU = Intel Core i7-4790K Haswell Refresh Quad-Core 4.0GHz
Motherboard = MSI Z97-Gaming 7 Intel Z97 Motherboard
Memory = CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory
Please help me
Disconnect everything except the monitor, cpu, ram. In fact, go down to 1 stick of ram. Will it POST now?
24x7 - Low Power Consumption ? Internet Download Machine
I want to build a System that has LOW POWER Consumption.
Mostly Downloading Stuffs , Might Host Own Cloud too , Email Clients , IRC Clients , Other Internet Connected Apps
I was thinking of a Kabini System
Athlon 5350 (25 W TDP) & Some AM1 Mother Board
Again I was thinking about the Intel G3258 Anniversary edition processor (But it has Much Larger TDP)
It should be A Windows 7 Machine . Not Linux or other what nots !
But I am Here for some Advice. I already told you my requirements.
Advise me - What should I do ?
I only want to buy
Processor + Motherboard + RAM
SMPS (PSU) + HDD
I have the rest
Hmm; Why is power consumption a hi priority issue - - are you running off a solar powered system or portable generator?
Ok so I got this computer it works great! until I try to game the only game that works is Fable TLC (it works for all games) all other games the monitor goes black for a few seconds so I cant play any games really. how do I fix this without spends tons of money on parts? everything works fine even others have no problem see things thru remote access im the only one that's having the issues. brand new tower and monitor.
Can you give us your hardware components such as the make and model of your power supply and the watts, amount of RAM, your cpu, and video card? Is this a new system?
A good example of why not to buy cheap power supplies.
This power supply was about 6 months old, Used for 2 or 3 days per week, And drew around 450 watts under full load.
Thankfully the rest of my pc components were spared. It was used in my second older pc, I use a corsair TX850 v2 in my main machine.
Sorry I must not have sent the last post correctly I am new to this site So I will try again I was getting ready to upgrade to bigger hard drive or drives Before doing that I needed to take the old hard drives out to obtain some information off the labels I did so and while they where out I cleaned the Mounting slots a little better than using just No drives to SATA Power hard air Having done that I re-installed them both When I turned on the power button the button lit up and the fans were running But No Power to SATA hard drives it No Power to SATA hard drives does not seem that the hard drives are getting any power as I can t hear or feel any thing Plus the computer is not booting No Power to SATA hard drives I don t recall unplugging anything other than the two hard drives But I also notice that I have a short cable bundle with two white plugs with three pins and one empty pin hole on the other end a black connection with with five connector slots with one middle on blank That makes me think that I unplugged the power to the hard drive someplace along the ling As I have a wire bundle that has two SATA power connectors that are plugged in But their are three white female plugs marked P P and P which are not connected to anything in that wire bundle I don t know at this point if the power comes through that bundle from the power source Of if I do not have the power plugged into the lope I hope that somebody can help me figure this out and let me know if I burnt out the hard drives and have to start over with my recover disk reloading windows and going from there nbsp
How would I close this post out. Dumb me had the monitor plugged into an unused VGA port. It only took me two and a half days to figure that out. I wanted to let others know to check and see if they have everything plugged in where it should be. Including the VGA or other monitor cables.
I wanted to reset my admin password on my asus ultrabook,
so I took advice from some wanker who told me to remove round battery for 5 min, unplug it from motherboard, plug ac power in without replacing battery yet....... So... THIS WANKER DID!...
Now turning my computer on ive got nothing .... Except a 'battery charging flicker', when releasing power button after holding it a long,long time!!!!! PLEASE HELP ME IM STUMPED, OR SIMPLY THE OWNER OF A PAPER WEIGHT? .... ( I did see a green light briefly when I plugged it in, without the round battery. )
Sounds like this procedure corrupted the motherboards bios, and you may have a "paperweight" now for good. Did you re-install the "round" Bios button battery?
I have a 9 yr old Desktop PC and my power supply is going out. The one I have is a modular style power supply. Is it required that I replace it with another modular power supply or does it matter?
No, it doesn't matter which one you use. Use whatever type you wish.
I had a completely new experience.
I installed a new R9 280 today.
I have a CORSAIR HX Series HX750 750W 80 PLUS GOLD PSU. ([email protected])
I was running an ATI 6870.
Previously I never heard the PSU. While checking out a game a fan ramped up and I thought it the
R9 280. I thought man that's loud. Through some experimentation I found the R9 280 fan noise was not the problem but the HX 750. I cannot tolerate too much noise from my computer so this PSU has to go.
I know the R9 280 draws more power then the 6870 so the PSU is doing it's job.
My question is: How many watt PSU would I need so it won't ramp up....or are there other considerations I need to focus on as well...besides the +12 rating and wattage.
Thanks for any help
Just get the Rosewill Gold 450w, I think it's on sale.
You won't really find any good passive power supplies.
I bought a gaming PC, and I am wondering if my graphics cards and the computer itself are pulling to many watts, Will the lighting inside the box put a demand on the power supply??? I am debating about taking them out, I don't even have the lights on anyways I find them a waste they came with the computer I bought
I bought a gaming PC, and I am wondering if my graphics cards and the computer itself are pulling to many watts, Will the lighting inside the box put a demand on the power supply??? I am debating about taking them out, I don't even have the lights on anyways I find them a waste they came with the computer I boughtClick to expand...
Josh*^ - the lights could not possibly be pulling more that 10 watts, at an extreme. Probably they are actually pulling a level that you could not notice before-and-after if you used an actual measurement, such as with the Kill-A-Watt.
Same for fans, and most anything else you plug in or on except video cards.
Everyone: you will spend all kinds of money to have powerful components, and a suitable power supply - so go ahead and get an ACTUAL power draw measurement -
The kill-a-watt is simple to use and read, very simple. it costs $20 or $25.
You can use it on anything you plug into a 120 volt outlet. Vacuum cleaner, hair curler, radio, anything. It tells you exactly how much power is being used. Exactly.
For over a decade, these power calculators have been estimating power needs, and they have been over-estimating by 100% the entire time.
Greetings I ve moved to another country where electricity is not stable and goes high low or even disconnect power failure many times a day So i brought an old UPS i have discovery and connected it to the outlet and connected the PC and the LCD screen to it Sometimes when the electricity goes high down the UPS seems can t regulate fast enough or when the electricity disconnect the UPS can t change to battery mode fast enough so the PC restarts I though the problem is from the UPS so i bought failure during My despite restarts UPS PC power a new one iXA PRO which also has a built in AVR with wide input range of - Vac wide range of input frequency output short circuit protection overload protection and the transfer time My PC restarts during power failure despite UPS is ms I connected the PC and the LCD screen My PC restarts during power failure despite UPS to the new UPS and connected my modem and an external hard to the old one Surprisingly when the electricity went high low or when it disconnected the modem did not reset but my PC restarted which means that the old UPS is still working and the problem is from the PC itself I use My PC restarts during power failure despite UPS a very god power supply Blue Storm - wat so any idea what the problem could be Note When the electricity goes high low or disconnect the PC doesn t actually restart it just half turned off i mean i can still hear the fans rolling but there is nothing on the screen and i have to turn it off then on Note Sometimes when electricity goes high low or disconnect the PC keeps working normally Thanx in advance nbsp
My guess is your power supply in your PC uses active PFC (Power Factor Control) while your uninterruptible power supply is likely rated for a passive PFC.
My sister's 13" MBP (2011) died a few hours ago. According to what she told me, she was using it, and then, poof, black screen and no power. She doesn't have the cash at the moment to have it properly checked by a tech, so I did a basic troubleshoot in an attempt to narrow things down.
While the internals are a bit dirty, I didn't see any obvious signs of physical damage (it was relevant to check for this). Furthermore, the machine doesn't seem to respond to any power sources. I tried a couple different power cables and, while the little amber light on the magsafe (sp?) tab will come on briefly, the computer with neither power on nor display a charge on the built-in charge indicator. I will also note that the machine failed while disconnected from an outlet source with a full battery indicated.
My initial conclusions are a) the computer fried itself or b) the battery is toast. Any suggestions?
If no one here can offer any insight, I would post this to the Apple discussion forum. There are usually people there that can diagnose this from just a description so that is your best bet.
I turn-on the power on my laptop and all I see is a cycle of Red, Green, Blue, White, & Black of color on my screen. Computer was working the night before. I do not know much about troubleshooting a computer. Can anyone please give me an advice or guide if this is something I would be able to tinker to work or bring the laptop over for service.
I have a Dell XPS1730 (5 years old) with Nvidia IUPGA5D G84. Recently, upgraded to Windows 7
I appreciate your assistance.
The internal video has died. To verify this you can attach an external monitor and see if the display is normal
So I've got a mostly custom built pc, its motherboard has everything built in(Graphics.etc) but im looking to upgrade to this for graphics:
I have two questions:
1. I have a 500w psu currently, will I have to upgrade, and by how much.
2.how will I take of the built in graphics on the motherboard.
And also, are there any reccomendations for a better psu
Technology:GDDR5 SDRAM, Size:3 GB, Bus Width:384-bit, Effective Clock Speed:6.4 GHz, Width:4.2 cm, Depth:31.1 cm, Package Type:Retail, Height:15 cm, Cables Included:1 x DVI-VGA adapter, Peripheral / Interface Devices:Two 8-pin power connectors, Required Power Supply:750 WClick to expand...
your link clearly states that a 750w PSU is required.
you can use any of these online power supply calculators:
newegg(store) calculator(power supply requirement)
When I power on my Toshiba equium a200-151, the screen lights up but no display at all - even though there is loading activity. I rigged up to my PC monitor and everything is fine - see bios and windows loading etc. Borrowed a spare compatible working screen but same problem. I'm not 100% sure if its the inverter or the ribbon connector - any ideas before I buy a new inverter? Thanks for looking.
I would say that the video cable (ribbon cable) is bad based on what you have tried so far. This cable goes from the motherboard to the LCD display. Did you use the old inverter off the suspect Toshiba when you tried the compatible spare LCD panel?
I have a Lenovo Ideapad Z575 and whenever it moves it turns off and reboots. This problem happens when it is on battery and plugged in. I know that it must be something wrong with the hardware but what is it and how do I fix it. Thanks for all of the help
So any time the laptop is moved whether it is plugged into it's charger or not, it shuts off?
I've bought a z87ext4 mobo + int core i3-4130 CPU. The problem: When I put it together and turn it on it almost immediately shuts down. I have unplugged the memory and it doesn't give a sound. I watched Dr. Debug (the digital code indicator) and it doesn't even light up. I read on internet and found somebody with the same problem after building it but the site gave no solution. Could somebody help?
Is everything properly connected?
Hi all. I just bought a graphics card that needs 350 watts and +12v with 20 amps to run. My power supply has to following output:
+5V 22A MAx -12V 1A max
+5V (FP) 2A Max +3.3V 17A max
+12VA 18A max +12VB 18A max
combined power on +12VA and +12VB rails must not exceed 360 watts
Total combined power must not exceed 375 watts
Can it run the card?
Hi, could you please post a little more detail.
Instead of saying graphics card, it would help if you said the actual graphics card.
Instead of power supply, you could say what power supply you have.
Hi there. Since I bought my new mouse and illuminated keyboard, when I use the PC a lot, they have spontaneously been stoping for a period of time and then they work fine. I didn't have this problem before because I had a ps2 keyboard. Now I have USB mouse and keyboard and this happens. I do believe there is a problem with the power management. A friend of mine has the same motherboard and he incurs the same problem. I have a Gigabyte GA-B75M-D3V and here is a printscreen of my bios with the power management tab.
What settings should I change?
I think you'd be able to adjust that power management settings in Windows under
Control Panel>Power Options>Edit Plan Settings>Change Advanced Power Settings>USB Settings
Or in Device Manager>USB Root Hub Properties>Power Management Tab
Is my motherboard compatible with and does it have enough power watts it compatible my Card have power new to & enough with run Is mob Video to run new video card My specs More details about my computer Component Details Processor Intel R Core TM i CPU GHz Memory RAM GB Graphics Intel R HD Graphics Gaming graphics MB Total available graphics memory Primary hard disk GB Free GB Total Windows Home Premium System Manufacturer Gigabyte Technology Co Ltd Model H M-UD H Total amount of system memory GB RAM System type -bit operating system Number Is my mob compatible with new Video Card & have enough power to run it of processor cores Storage Total size of hard disk s GB Disk partition C GB Free GB Total Media drive D CD DVD Graphics Display adapter type NVIDIA GeForce LE Total available graphics memory MB Dedicated graphics memory MB Dedicated system memory MB Shared system memory MB Display adapter driver version Secondary monitor resolution x Primary monitor resolution x DirectX version DirectX Video Card Information Network Realtek RTL D D Family PCI-E Gigabit Ethernet NIC NDIS New Video card info Nvidia G-Force Video Px Video card UPC- Mb PCIExpress X Dual Monitor Support My power supply is watts and on my motherboard now there is only sticks of GB ram Patriot Viper Extreme and nothing else in any of the expansion slots I looked online but cannot get a straight answer Can my motherboard run this card with no issues Thanks I am shine nbsp
No one can say if it will run with no issues, just because there could be any number of complications that could pop up. If you asking will it work with your current system, then yes it will run on your current system with the PSU. I would advise that you uninstall the video drivers (and software) for the current card, changing out to the new card. This will create less of a head ache for you in the end.
I would also suggest trying to find another 2GB ram stick because your motherboard is a Dual Channel motherboard and the computer will run better if you have 4 sticks of ram instead of 3. Its not going to hurt your computer by having 3 sticks of ram versus 4, but you will get better overall performance.
I have put together a new build with the Gigabyte Assassin 2 m/board and a Corsair AX 860i PSU. On start up the PSU clicks out and won't run. The PSU Self test is good - green light and the fan is running, however when I connect all the peripherals the PSU just drops out and will not run. I have double checked all connections from the CPU, M/board, memory, graphics cards. This is all in a Thermaltake Level 10 case, my next check will be the hard drive connections - hot swap bays. Any help will be really appreciated.
Hey guys I had some contractors doing some work on my house today and they needed to shut the circuit off to the room my computer was in The computer was on at the time so it shut off when the power was cut Now it won t go back on Power button does nothing at all and I don t know if it s the power supply mobo or switch I ve got a power supply tester which causes my computers fans to start up when it s plugged in so the power supply does respond not Power mobo button working... issue? The results are in the attached file It shows LL which means to low to register voltage for the - V line I honestly don t know if I even have that line so I don t know if that s bad I attached the label on my power supply too Would Power button not working... mobo issue? no voltage cause a computer to completely not respond Because the fans DO start up when the power supply tester is plugged in I don t think the switch is the problem because I tried to short the power switch jumpers with a paper clip and nothing happened I also took the CMOS battery out for a while and then tried it again and that didn t work Any ideas on whether I need a mobo or a power supply I don t have an extra PSU around to test with but I may try to find one before ordering a new mobo thanks in advance -mike nbsp
Not the switch. Could be the motherboard or PSU, but I don't have any good insight.
I would unplug the PSU and flip the 120/240V switch to 240V, then flip it back before plugging it in. To me, this doesn't make any logical sense, but over about 16 years of playing with PCs I have seen it work twice.
my acer laptop 7520 shuts itself down after booting for few seconds.
It has Vista but dont think its a software / virus issue. As I got into BIOS / booting menu, it did not stay there. it shuts itself down.
I removed CD rom from laptop but had same result. It has two 1GB rams, I removed them one at a time but had same result. I then removed Harddisk and tried to make it boot from USB, but had same result. It was shutting down after 10 - 30 seconds. I see the Fan running when ever I start the laptop. Fan is very clean. no dust, dont think its a heating problem then.
please can some one advise what could be issue.
I ran it on full battery but had same result. Then I removed battery and connected the power cable into laptop, same result. it shuts down after few seconds.
Sounds as though its over heating. You might try taking a can of air and blowing the vents out. If this has not helped. You may need to take it to a repair shop. and have the thermal pads replaced.
My brother in law has a got himself a free computer to which I am going to donate my old Sapphire X1950GT graphics card. The problem is, is that I can't easily wire it in to the computer as it has a crappy generic PSU with only one Molex and several Sata power plugs.
What I do have, without slicing and dicing and getting out the soldering iron, is the adaptor cable below. What I don't know is whether this has a sufficient amount of wires I.e. 0V and 12V to provide power to my G/Card.
System power consumption with a Sapphire X1950 GT is less than 250W. I think you will be fine with the splitter mentioned above. You probably don't need much extra power to run the card. I assume there is at least a 300W PSU or greater in the system.
I've been working on computers for quite some time, but this has me completely perplexed. Just purchased a new case (NZXT Guardian), new EVGA 650TI vid card, 4 gigs of Corsair PC 6400 (Dual Channel), have two hard drives (500 gig Seagate w/Vista loaded/350 gig WD Caviar w/XP loaded), new 750 watt Corsair gaming psu, new Asus M2N32 SLI Deluxe board (wireless edition) and two new DVD-R/DVD-RW drives (HP drives) and AMD Athlon 6000 cpu. When I hit the start button, everything fires up for about 5-6 secs, and the system shuts off. I've tested the psu and it's fine. The memory works in another computer, and so do the h/d's and optical drives. I keep thinking there's something wrong with the board or chip. I've torn this build down and rebuilt so many times in the past three days my heads spinning. Thought I'd get some fresh perspective on this thing.
Disconnect all drives, graphic card, and all but one memory module to see, if the system has the same symptoms. If the system seems to have the same symptoms, you can rule out those components as being a possible culprit.
The 750W PSU is a bit much for a 650Ti. I take it you were giving head-room for possible future SLI with larger graphics cards.
This is a tough one. Have you made any progress on this issue?
Hey how's it going. Any help would be great.
Had an older system so got a new motherboard and CPU. Installed it all and then no power when I try to switch it on. The orange modem light comes on but nothing else turns on.
Gpu- GeForce GTX 460
Ram- Kingston DDR 3
Psu- Shaw p4s6 860w.
I also tried putting in one ram card at a time. Taking the graphic card out and using on board. Taking the motherboard out of the case to see if it was shorting out.
Hey how's it going. Any help would be great.
Had an older system so got a new motherboard and CPU. Installed it all and then no power when I try to switch it on. The orange modem light comes on but nothing else turns on.
Gpu- GeForce GTX 460
Ram- Kingston DDR 3
Psu- Shaw p4s6 860w.
I also tried putting in one ram card at a time. Taking the graphic card out and using on board. Taking the motherboard out of the case to see if it was shorting out.Click to expand...
By any chance could you post a picture of your computer as it is hooked up right now so we can see if your missing anything. Try to check if the 4pin/8pin connector on the motherboard is hooked up and check for tightness of all the Motherboard connectors to start with.
Hi im planning to maximuize my fans in my case Phantom But im not sure if My power Supply could Handle it Right now It Running on Phanton Case top MM fans rear mm fans and front mm fans Raidmax RX- K W ATX Power Supply ASRock GM-VGS FX AM w Radeon AMD FX- GHz Quad-Core Processor AMD Stock AM AM w Case Fan GB Supply Power x GB DDR MHz GB SATA Hard Drive DVDROM DVD Reader Power Supply Drive External USB Wireless N Adapter SAPPHIRE R GB DDR WITH BOOST Required watt My system is running fine now even if I put the fans controler into max speed but now im planning to maximize my fans in my case here is the fans status for my case Side x x mm included rpm Front x x mm included rpm Top x x mm included rpm Rear x x mm included rpm Bottom x mm HDD Pivot x mm Question Can my PSU handle everything for my system im also planning to upgrade my ram to gb or What is the Power Supply recommended for my system Or when im planning to upgrade my motherboard what would fit well with my system looking for slot ram or if my watt power supply strong enough to power thermaltake dual frio heatsink Thx you very much for trying to help nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/power-supply.199652/
Hello all I made a post regarding the performance failing of one of my supply power affect hard performance? drive/computer Faulty hard drives The conclusion we came to has unfortunately not resolved my problem and I am beginning to think my Power Supply may be the culprit Faulty power supply affect hard drive/computer performance? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Before I go into details here is my current Hardware Q GHZ GIGABYTE EP -DS R GB PC mhz x gb x gb Nvidia GTX mb requires x pin power adapters Asus Xonar soundcard requires floppy power adapters Windows x Jeantech W PSU modular PSU PCI-E nodes and nodes for other devices gb HDD operating system tb HDD data tb HDD data tb HDD data - added recently ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ My original problem in brief Upon accessing certain files in one of my TB drives I hear a distictive quot click lockup halt quot sound and then the entire system crashes first the drive will become inaccessible then windows explorer will crash followed by the mouse and eventually a BSOD after a minute ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ I bought a new TB a month ago to replace what then I thought was a failing TB drive Since the problems have become quot random quot and happen across all four drives tb tb gb tb I am now considering my PSU the culprit Jeantech Absolute w It seems logical to me Sometimes while performing tasks which put stress on several HDD s at the same time my computer is quot choking quot running as fast smooth as it should but with sudden freezes with those HDD quot click - stop - restart quot sounds Booting into windows is failing from time to time freezes on the quot starting windows quot screen or DISK BOOT FAILURE Insert system disk The PSU is modular - could certain quot plugs quot in my PSU are faulty I haven t tested this extensively but in some cases when the computer is not starting up at all using different power ribbon cable combinations seems to help Also I had to remove my DVD drive completely when I first installed the new TB I bought and I don t think my computer will start at all with it plugged in anymore so my PSU MUST be having a hard time coping with all the components If it is of any relevance I use an Nvidia GTX which requires x PCI-E pin power connections hard drives power is supplied via THREE modular ribbon power cables - two HDD s share power from the same ribbon cable lastly worth noting I use an asus Xonar sound card requires floppy power connector several symptoms suggest the PSU any thoughts nbsp
a 1000Watt shouldn't have any problem coping with the components that you have, i would recommend that u borrow a power supply from a friend and try it out on your computer, maybe the power supply is old and is not supplying proper voltages on all the rails....
Hello. I have a self built computer. I play a game called War Thunder. I have a Radeon 2900 HD 4 gigs of RAM. A dual core processor at 2.66 Ghz. When I play my War Thunder game I will get in a flight and a half at the most, then the system shuts down and reboots. I have run a stress test and eveything but nothing shows up as a problem. Any ideas why this is happening?
Update: I ran OCCT stress test again but this time I ran it in fullscreen mode. As soon as the test starts in full screen mode the computer shuts down and restarts. I am guessing now that my PSU is going bad.
More likely the cooling system is insufficient and it's getting over heated. Run Eventvwr.msc and under system events, look at the events being created.
Hi can anyone help please, I just received my new Plait GTX Nvidia 770 Jetstream card and noticed it came with an 8pin and 6pin power requirement. They provided a 6pin to 8 pin adapter and I have a Corsair 650 TX PSU with 2 6pin power lines problem is the 6 to 8 pin adapter looks like it need both 6pin lines from the PSU to provide the necessary voltage/amps and that still seems to leave me short the other 6 pin port on the GFX card. Do I need to plug both 6 pin attachments in to the adapter or will one suffice?
My bad, silly fool that I am I failed to realize both 6pin PSU power lines also have additionally the other 2pin lines required to make up the 8pin connection right along side. Thought I may need a newer PSU there! LoL
I gave my external hard drive to a friend but his laptop didn't recognize it. after getting it back, I connected it to my laptop but it didn't show up in disk management at all. the drive is receiving power since the light is on. I felt the drive upon connecting to laptop and noticed it tries multiple times to rotate the magnetic disk but in the end it come to a stop and nothing after that. I think my friend's laptop somehow damaged my drive since I'm sure it's a hardware problem.
So, I was wondering maybe any of you guys have an idea how to fix it if possible otherwise, I'd like to know if I can recover the data without spending for the experts?
Hey armmzd. Sure sounds like a drive gone bad, and assuming you know it was good when you gave it to him,maybe it was dropped,etc. All I can suggest is going to the drive manufacturer's site and see if they have a drive diagnostic tool you can try.
Hi guys I ve spent today building a pc for myself However on pressing the on button there s no reaction at all My machine specs are M B - Gigabyte GA- A-UD Processor - AMD RAM - Corsair Gb DDR Case - Zalman Z Graphics card - Gigabyte HD PSU - Corsair CX M W Wi-fi card also installed but can t remember the name and seem to have temporarily lost the box in a pile of packaging So far I ve checked the CPU and motherboard power sockets the wall plug sockets and the power cord to my PSU I ve also checked the connections between my case and the motherboard and these all appear to be correct on power build PC doesn't As part of this final point I switched the power on LED with the power button they both originate from the same location so thought they may be mixed up Anyhows I got a solid LED which suggests to me that a there s power running through the switch circuit and b the pc isn t booting when told to as a PC build doesn't power on solid LED would indicate PC build doesn't power on circuit completion which would be the equivalent of holding in the on button If anybody could shed any light on where to go next I d be eternally grateful currently searching the house for a paperclip to test the PSU nbsp
Does the CPU and case fans move at all, when pressing the power button?
I have a printer
There is no lighting up
The power supply give
red wire about 7 V
blue wire about 11 V
Holding down the power button en stop/reset won't work
How can I test the logic board is defect?
Image logig board
Its my first turned power Supply Flashback when LED is flashing on build and I think my motherboard isnt working but more specifically I want to know why the flashback led is flashing when I turn on the power supply Power is going into the motherboard the standby light comes on as well as the Flashback LED but when I attempt to turn the computer on with the power button Flashback LED is flashing when power Supply turned on on the case nothing happens I ensured both the ATX power connectors were fully in everything is connected RAM is in but the computer will not boot Also I might have have connected the power to the case in at the opposite ends ground to power and power to ground but it has been reversed and if that is the problem would I have to replace the case or the motherboard Here are the specs -ASUS M A motherboard -Fractal R ATX Tower Case -AMD FX- core AM GHz -Kingston GB in SSD -Corsair TX -Kingston gb HyperX DDR Ram nbsp
No idea but slight suggestion Power supply???
Whenever I play Call of Duty 4: Modern Warfare or COD 5: World at War after a while my laptop turns off automatically and my laptops Specs are: 2nd gen. Intel core i3 processor, 500 GB HDD, 4 GB Ram, Nvidia GeForce 610M with 1 GB dedicated VRAM. I have seen the specifications needed to play the game and my laptop's specs are much more higher.
It happens only with Call of Duty games and all the other games works perfect.
Check the laptop profiles for Power vs time vs Battery life
I got this laptop, neo, 1 1/2 year in my possession, it so happened that I accidentally hybernate I for a couple of hours, when I tried to open it, the there is no booting taking place., no fan,just the led light for charging/power , I have tried the hard reset as suggested in other forum, but the charging light just blinking as I press the power button( connected with the adaptor and w/o the the battery)
is there any one know my case?
Remove the battery altogether; then hit the POWER key, which will drain any power left onboard.
Now reinstall the battery and connect to the A/C charger - - does it show as charging?
Wait a few minutes and then hit power on again - - it should resume from hibernation.
My mom gave me a Dell Dimension 4700 computer that was acting up. She said it would turn it's self off randomly and she thought it was a virus. When I brought the computer to my place, it powered on once, then I went to turn it on again and nothing. No lights, no power what so ever. So after doing some research I bought a new power supply for it. I just replaced the power supply and plugged the computer in and now there is a blinking amber light in the front and a solid green light on the motherboard but it won't turn on. I have checked all of the connections and they are properly seated. Any ideas what is causing the problem?
My iphone 4S can not support whole day use as the battery nearly drain .
So I searched iphone 4S external battery in amazon and find Plush cartoon toys power banks AD below. The price is 29.99$ a little expensive as its 5200mAh. T
http://amazon.com/Constellations-Thunderbolt-Incredible-Blackberry-Fashionable/dp/B00DJ3DZK2 (avoild link, delet url space when past in IE)
Also I found a external battery case here :
The battery capacity is only 1700mAh but can be used as a case protector for iphone 4s
Which one I should bought or
do anyone find the similar high capacity like 10000mAh but cheaper one in ebay buy.com or amazon and other place?
Before you invest in more equipment, try to reduce power consumption (see this)
My father is having issues with his computer and shut down The computer turns on and runs fine It shut downs successfully as far as I can tell Fans stop spinning power LED turns off but then starts itself about or seconds later POST beeps are one short then about a second later a somewhat longer beep at a different tone deeper if I remember correctly I then get a quot Power Surge Detected possible faulty PSU quot warning The computer continues to boot to windows properly if I allow it I haven t tried holding the power button when windows is running I don t want to either but all other attempts to shut down from windows lead to the same end result I can shut down from BIOS Shut Down and Power Supply by pressing the power button and the system does not restart itself I m not sure where to look There have been no problems with the computer during usual use It runs fine I don t see any signs of a PSU issue although I m not terribly experienced there Temps are between and degrees C OS and drivers are fully updated I m not entirely certain if BIOS is fully updated or not Any ideas on what the issue could be Do I need to look into a new power supply I m going to try replacing the CX M with the Silencer MkII W from my gaming computer Power Supply and Shut Down this weekend to see if that resolves the issues Specs Intel i - Stock cooler Asus P Z -V LK Rosewill Line Glow Only of the blue LED fans are installed WD Caviar Blue GB Crucial Ballistix GB Asus Blu-Ray CDD Corsair watt CX M Running Windows nbsp
A faulty PSU can cause serious damage to other components. My first advice is do not start this PC up again especially in light of the warnings you are receiving. If you know of anyone who has a multimeter to test this psu it please have them do so.
Corsair is known for their quality power supplies but even they can ship out faulty ones. Let us know how the switching of the psu works.
My apologies if this in the wrong area, it seemed right at the time.. My problem is, brand ned build roughly a week old.. When I hit the power switch nothing happens, I have to reach around and flip the PSU switch on and on again, then hit the power button and it starts up just fine. A friend mentioned it could be a short, or a grounding pen somewhere interfering. But as I've never seen a problem like this, I can't diagnosis it on my own.
Case: Cooler Master 932 HAF
Mobo: Sabertooth Z77
PSU: Corsair HX850
Hey Mogymog. Does this happen every time you turn on the pc or is it an intermittent but frequent problem?. I assume you already checked the power switch wiring to the mobo for a secure connection.
I have G50V notebook pc. It shuts off itself I tried to turn on again. it does not work. Previously, it was shutting down repeatedly when the fan is hot but I turned it on again when the fan got cool. but now it is totally shuts off. what shall I do?
You could have a damaged processor?
Hi guys my name is karan . I just build my pc a couple of months back and while I'm playing a heavy game on it always restarts and show this error I dont know what to do pls guys help me my pc specs are -
amd fx 4100 3.6 ghz
asus m5a78l-m-lx v2 motherboard
amd radeon hd 6670 2 gb ddr3
iball 400 watt psu (got free with my iball cabinet) , pls guys help me
SURGE is normally associated with an increase in line voltage and that can be deadly to the PS and other components.
A DROP-OUT is when A/C voltage goes below minimum and this can effect the system too.
If power is poorly regulated (ie it fluctuates periodically), I would get a UPS to condition the power better. I have two: one for the computer equipment and another for my large LED tv.
You can get a cheap multi-meter to measure and monitor the voltage visually and then when you get the error, glance to confirm - - is it hi or low?
Personally, with only 400w PSU and your gaming environment, I would suspect you are stressing the PSU to its limit when gaming.
I got this laptop in for repairs recently and it has been a very tricky one I already told the client that I don t think it can be fixed but my curiosity has driven me to keep working on it This system came in unable to startup freezes during startup or said no boot device present I pulled the HDD out and scanned it from another computer Sure enough every error check would freeze around Note that I said freeze not display an error I would have to end task to close the windows drive check Chkdsk r from command prompt resulted in the same freezing partway through Disk copy and clone software would also freeze partway So during failure - drive after Toshiba Shuts OS install A305-S6898 off Satellite I copied the users files off manually and went to load a new Toshiba Satellite A305-S6898 - Shuts off during OS install after drive failure HDD in the laptop Every Toshiba Satellite A305-S6898 - Shuts off during OS install after drive failure time the OS install disk would load there would be Toshiba Satellite A305-S6898 - Shuts off during OS install after drive failure problems Sometimes it would freeze during the quot loading windows quot screen of the windows install Sometimes it would get to the install process and freeze right after selecting the disk to use Lately the most common problem is at variable points in the initial install loading process the system will just power cycle and restart At this point I ran memtest and found no errors Just the same I switched out the RAM and still it had problems I tried multiple different OS install disks and set bios back to defaults The problem persisted never being able to install a new OS I tried different hard drives external dvd drive and installing from a USB stick Oddly enough half of my repair utilities simply won t load things like seagate disk utilities paragon and acronis disk directors either freezing or giving weird errors like quot cd drive not present quot or quot memory not found quot The only thing that will run without freezing or restarting seems to be memtest which makes me think it s not an overheating issue since this can run for hours Frankly I m stumped It seems odd that the hard drive failed at the same time as whatever component is causing this problem so I assume either coincidence or some sort of drive controller failure that caused damage to the drive as well as making the system freeze while loading most any volume Any thoughts nbsp
Yeah, it may be a motherboard issue... Have you tried removing or resetting the CMOS battery?
I have a Gateway, model ID49C. I bought it new about 3 years ago but replaced its battery less than a year ago.
This phenomenon has been happening for more than a year: When I plug in my computer to charge, sometimes the front power light (orange when charging) and the light for the power button start flashing in unison and the computer stops receiving charge. It immediately stops when I unplug the computer. This only seems to happen when the computer is open -- I can still fully charge it overnight. Lately it's started to happen so often that my computer can barely charge at all from the number of times I have to unplug it.
Does anyone know what's going on, or where I could look to find more info? Thanks for your help!
Try another AC adapter...
I have a Dell Dimension 5100 Desktop computer that the power supply recently went on so I replaced it and now the computer is not recognizing the CD/DVD drives?
When I first installed it and powered the computer on it said I had a Floppy Diskette Seek Failure . I don't have any floppy drives installed so I disabled it through the BIOS and now I noticed the drives aren't working . I have two drives installed one to play dvds and burn cds and the other is a dvd burner . Both of the drives power up and you can hear the disk spinning but nothing happens and the computer doest show I have them?
The old PSU may have taken out the motherboard when it fried - fairly common, especially with the cheap O.E.M. units used by Dell. Also, some Dell boards are proprietary, which means the connectors may not be standard ATX - Check the pinout on the 24 pin ATX connector to make sure it matches on both PSUs.
Has anybody got a serviceable Power Lead which connects mains adaptor model ac-v315 to base of Sony CCD-TR3300E Hi8 Camcorder and which is no longer required. No longer available from Sony.
Hi, I'm thinking about upgrading from 2 Crossfired 7970's to Quad 7970s, I'm currently running a XFX 1050w Power supply so I know I will have to upgrade to a bigger one, So I'm just wondering what size to go on the psu to safety run them all and the rest of my rig. Thanks alot!
this is an average power consumption of a radeon 7970
u have to take count not only the graphics cards here though all ur system specs should be listed down if possible and if ur running an overclock it would help better
but judgeing by the cards it would add up already to a 1300w alone
+ might I ask what u need quad 7970s for I feel like 2 is enough overkill already
Okay to start things off my laptop is an ASUS N61J series model and it's been with me for about 3-4 years now.
The problem is that one day when I plugged my laptop to the charger the power just won't go in to my laptop. The charger is working fine and I was able to use my laptop via battery life.
I got it repaired at a local laptop repair center and they said that the BIOS IC (what they particularly said at the work performed is "Reseal/Reset BIOS IC").
So my question is what excatly happened to my laptop? Like:
1) What caused this problem
2) How did the shop excatly fix the problem just in case it happens again I would know what to do
Thanks in advance!
I think they're referring to the BIOS integrated controller. This controls basic functions of your laptop, outside of Windows.
From the description, it sounds like they opened up your laptop and 'reset the BIOS' - that is, remove the small button battery out of it, to force it to reset.
I don't know how that would help you charger problems.
Trying to see if I can swap a Radeon 5830 for a 5850 but need to know if it uses 6pin connectors or 8pins because the 5850 used 8pins
Radeon 5830 needs two 6-pin connectors. That's the AMD reference card anways, what make/model are you looking at?
I think Asus uses a 6 pin AND an 8 pin, as an example, so you have to check the makers specs for the individual card.
I have an Asus EeePc 1015PED which cannot power on when I press the power on button. The laptop starts up for about 1 second then dies. How can I tell if this is a motherboard problem? Tried it without battery but also encounters same issue.
Try different power supply (can be hard) and also try reseating the RAM if possible.
My sister in laws Acer aspire 5750z-4885 was recently sat on and the screen is cracked. I was going to replace it for her but before I order a new screen I was wondering if it is even just the screen and not something else that I cannot repair. The laptop since getting the screen cracked will shut off after powering up in about 4-7 seconds or so I haven't used a stop watch lol.
I am wondering if perhaps there is a short or some other dmg caused by the screen being cracked that will not be remedied by replacing it. I have limited experience with cracked lappy screens. Thank you all so much for any and all replies I love this board and it has helped me many times in the past.
Yes, the cracked LCD screen can be the cause of the shutdown. Replacing the LCD panel is not that difficult for someone experienced, but for you it might be too much. You have to disassemble the top cover without breaking the plastic. The video cable might not be included with the new panel, so you would have to use the old cable. The cable connection to the panel is very delicate...
Can anybody Help Me !!
I have set up a Server type machine on a HP Touchsmart running Vista
I have purchased a Seagate 2TB Expansion Drive with its own power source
I desperately want to know how this external drive can be seen by other devices on the network
I have other external drives with their own power supply and non of them can be accessed by other computers on the network....Is there a trick to these devices!!!
I have external hard drives with NO power supply just USB connection and I can access them from any computer on the network and any media device on the network
I'm not very technical and would like to know if its just the type of device and I should be buying usb connected hard drives for music and movies
You need a router that has a USB connection. Then you can connect the external storage to the network. That is only for a USB drive though. Do you have one of those passport drives with a battery?
Late night I was in bed then I shock Static button... mobo case power fried? remembered that I needed to pay a bill that was due the next day So I jump out of bed and right to my PC I reach for the power Static shock case power button... mobo fried? button with my static charged finger unawares and get a shocking surprise I didnt actually press the button but the PC fired up anyway only to power down seconds later So I ground myself too late and press the power button Nothing no response Next I open the case and press the power button on the mobo no response The power and reset button on the mobo are lit up btw So then I unplug my power cord from the psu wait for the pc to drain completely then plug the cord back in Right when I plug the power cord back in the pc fires up then dies seconds later I ve tried -shorting out the battery -resetting cmos -screwdriver to the case power pin -bench test All with the same result Heres my hardware CASE Thermaltake MK-I Chaser CPU Intel Core i k GHz GPU EVGA GeForce GTX GB MOBO Asus P Z V PRO GEN MEM Corsair Vengeance GB DDR - x SSD Crucial M GB HDD Western Digital Caviar Black TB Windows Home Dont know what to do next I bought everything in February of so everything should be under warranty if qualified Thanks in advance nbsp
Sounds like you've fried something important. You could probably try getting an RMA on the board, but they might realize what has happened.
I feel for you bro. I did a similar thing with a motherboard not too long ago.
It's some computer speakers my boss gave me. They got dropped, or in some way physically abused. Go figure. Her computer has no built in speakers, so they're the only way for her to make sound. I checked it with headphones and the computer works fine. The LED won't light up when I hit the power button. I looked for a bad connection but found nothing of the sort. It simply won't turn on. The power button itself is loose, it looked like it was just glued to the board. I tried holding it in place with my hand and pushing it down, still no luck. Any advice?
Some electrical component either broke or got dislodged when the speakers fell. If you don't know about that kind of stuff and aren't prepared to spend hours Googling and slowly disassembling the speaker.. you're probably out of luck.
I have a Toshiba netbook nb505, about a week ago my son knocked it off the end table. About 20mins later I received the "blue screen error". I had to hold down power button to completely shut down, from that moment it has not powered back up. When the power button is pressed, the green power light comes on, and the fan begins running (for only a few seconds), then nothing (display never powers on at all). Knowing enough about computer to get myself in trouble, I have tried a few things. The same thing happen with or without battery installed, or ac connected. I tried taking out battery, unplugging ac and holding power for 30secs, nothing. I finally decided it was the motherboard and replaced it. Then to my chagrin, the exact same issue. I am dumbfounded (my next guess is the cmos battery), any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
You replaced the motherboard yourself, but you now think it's the CMOS battery (which should be on the new motherboard too). What?
Something isn't right.
Try taking out the HDD, reseating the RAM sticks too.
my laptop is a packard bell dot (same as the acer aspire one zg5) equipped with a hannstar j mv-4 94v, I disassembled it to fix a wireless module problem, then when I assembled it back and put on the battery the power and charge leds flash for a second and nothing happens when I try to power it on.
same reaction happens when I plug on the power supply or put on the battery.
even the battery doesn't seem to charge anymore (its indicator just flashes for a second as I said)
here's a video:
any help or suggestion?
One of the ribbon cables may not be securely connected. Them things are a pain to deal with.
If you hadn't previously worked on it, I was going to suggest the power supply may have gone bad. Since you worked on it and that is when the problem started, its been my experience the problem is nearly always workers error.
Swapped out the older ASUS motherboard when it apparently died - was also told that by a repair shop A sympathetic person donated his quot old quot ASUS P WD complete with PCU and RAM and heat sink for the cost of shipping so went to work He said he had upgraded to a more powerful setup and that this all worked when he removed it and stored it I had upgraded the power supply a few years ago to an ULTRA d watt when I added a couple Replacement up won't power motherboard drives and it always seemed to work I printed out the instruction manual for the P and not having done a lot of work on PC s for some years other than adding drives etc followed it very closely The plugs from the case were labeled so I m pretty sure I got the power amp interrupt switches case lights and fans etc all hooked up right Also the main cable to the board from the power supply and a secondary power supply cable to a socket near the CPU Also got the C drive EIDE and the additional SATA drives hooked up to the board and Replacement motherboard won't power up to the power supply and believe I have them right Maybe a question on the C drive There a set of sockets for EIDE drives incl one designated as a Primary and another Primary socket for an Replacement motherboard won't power up IDE drive If I recall my C drive is an EIDE so I should have connected to the right socket on the board Even if not shouldn t the CPU and case lights and fans power up When the big moment came to hit the switch it was an anti-climax Nothing happened The only sign of life is the green power LED on the board no CPU fan or anything No case lights or fans either I checked all the connections I mentioned and believe I have them right Being there s virtually no sign of life other than the green LED power light when I switch on the power supply could it be the power supply may have been the problem the whole time How can I test it - I have a digital meter Thanks for any ideas nbsp
Short the 2 power switch pins on the motherboard with a screwdriver.
I have a HP LaserJet Earlier this week I was using my laptop with a phone and an external hard drive both connected to the laptop HP power printer 2430 since error surge will USB LaserJet print not through USB connectors However when I connected the HP LaserJet using a printer cable with HP LaserJet 2430 printer will not print since USB power surge error a USB connector I received a message that said USB Power Surge Error or something similar Since then I have not been able to print I bought a new printer cable and it still does not work I ve been able to use the USB port on the laptop by connecting other items and they work fine so that s not the problem I am able to use the Menu button on the Printer to print out the Printer Info such as configuration page usage page etc However I can not get the Printer to work via a Printer Cable I keep receiving an error that says This document failed to print Is it possible the port which accepts the cable on the printer is damaged My family uses this printer on a daily basis Any assistance with this issue will be greatly appreciated Thanks Rachel nbsp
I forgot to add that the printer previously worked using this USB Printer Cable for years prior to this.
I'm still looking for help on this. If anyone has any knowledge regarding this, PLEASE let me know.
I had someone give me a dell E228WFPc monitor and it just shut off after a period of time and has to be turned off with the on/off switch and turned back on to get it to work. The longer it stays off the longer it works and when it turns off and is turned immediately back on it only stays on for a few minutes.
I did some research and it seems like a few people have this same/similar problem, is this what you are talking about: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=20065
K so I have a new pc Built myself and had a few problems getting PC shuts off randomly it to turn on Turns out I had to short two means that aren t even the power connector ones Anyway I got everything setup Windows blah blah I move it to my room from kitchen cause kitchen had better lighting for working conditions I turn it on and bam it shuts off after maybe - minutes Now I m thinking it could be cpu over heating It is hotter in my room I left the computer on bios and slowly PC randomly shuts off watched cpu temp climb At PC randomly shuts off about C it shuts off Is that an over heating temp It sits at that for a while before it shuts off I haven t updated drivers yet could that be a problem Build Cpu Intel i Psu kingwin w Motherboard asus p z - v lx Gpu radeon hd I also took off the heat sink after getting frustrated and taking everything apart when it wouldn t start did that PC randomly shuts off mess with the thermal paste It looks evenly applied When it shuts off it s just off no warning Please help nbsp
Take out graphics card and try again. Also, what do you mean by "Turns out I had to short two means that aren't even the power connector ones."
My Acer Aspire 7750G stops charging after a little time playing games. The laptop turns the charging on and off fast one time, then after a little while after stops charging until i manually replug the powercord (pull it out then in again).
When it stops carging the power and battery lights blinks continuously along with the on/off button, even after i shut the laptop off. The only thing that resets it is replugging the power cord. The laptop is not very varm, but it does seem to happen when the cooling fan starts working hard.
Any idea what may cause this?
Hi. I have same model, same spec. I spoke with acer ppl and they said that is soft issue??!!!! Soft my ar.. How software can cause that laptop is disconnecting and all lights on/off, hdd, processor light is flashing!!! ????? I rang different acer support in different country and they've said they know the issue and it may be either mother board or graf card. Now my 1000e worth laptop is on his way to acer service in the uk. I'll keep u updated once I'll get more info. Regards
Hi all, I have monitor gericom 2030 and it has some power board model that I cant find on sell, so I have buy one that is almost same with it. 4 plugs for invetors are same but one connection for t-con board is diffrent and on oroginal board I have pins (5V, 5v, GND, GND, 12v, BL, N/F) and on board that I have buy has ( 12v, 12v, GND, GND, 5v, 5v, GND, N.C, ON, DIM, MS ) So any suggests wich on wich one I should connect?
I got this older computer I built just recently and when I power on the computer it turns on then off then right back on and I gotta say that this is the first time I seen this happen before. It has an ASUS mobo and there are no issues as far as I can tell and I think I tried the PSU in another computer and it was fine so I am not sure what would cause this? Any ideas why this would be happening? Thanks.
Few things I can think of 1 take cmos battery out and replace it 2 check bios settings (default settings ) then depending how many sticks of ram u got take them out and put 1 at a time and see if problem still happens
HardDrive Western Digital WD Blue WD AAKX GB RPM need? power What I supply do MB Cache SATA Gb s quot Internal Hard Drive -Bare http www newegg What power supply do I need? com Product Product aspx Item N E MOBA GIGABYTE GA- A-D AM AMD SATA Gb s USB ATX AMD Motherboard http www newegg com Product Product aspx Item N E Processor AMD Phenom II X Black Edition Deneb GHz Socket AM W Quad-Core Processor HDZ FBGMBOX http www newegg com Product Product aspx Item N E GRAPHICS CARD ASUS HD - GD -V AMD Radeon HD VGA GB GDDR Graphics Card http www amazon com gp product B RFYEQW ref ox sc act title ie UTF amp psc amp smid ATVPDKIKX DER RAM CORSAIR Vengeance GB x GB -Pin DDR SDRAM DDR PC Desktop Memory Model CMZ GX M A C http www newegg com Product Product aspx Item N E Monitor ASUS VS Series VS H-P Black quot ms HDMI LED Backlight Widescreen LCD Monitor cd m ASCR http www newegg com Product Product aspx Item N E DVD DRIVE ASUS X DVD Burner - Bulk X DVD R X DVD RW X DVD R DL X DVD-R X DVD-RW X DVD-ROM X CD-R X CD-RW X CD-ROM Black SATA Model DRW- B ST BLK B AS OEM http www newegg com Product Product aspx Item N E Can someone let me know how many watts I need to run this nbsp
A quick check with an online power calculator gave me 300W
Basically, you don't need a whole lot, which is good, because you can focus on quality.
If your on a tight budget, an Antec NEO ECO 520C is about as cheap as you will want to get. Anything cheaper puts your components at risk, and is extremely inefficient. If you have some more cash, get a SeaSonic G Series 550W. The SeaSonic may actually save you money, as it will waste less power.
A friend dropped it off the other day asking me to see if it worked. After looking it over for several minutes, I noticed no power cord. I tried googling to see if I could get more info but came up blank.
Its a Polaroid, model # FLM-2017
Pictures are attached
This one shows the pc/cable/power. If somebody can help me find out the cost of a power cord, I'd appreciate it.
If not, I'm taking the speakers out of it for use elsewhere. Thank you.