Hello, I would like to buy this Gaming PC http://www.bestbuy.ca/en-CA/product/hewlett-packard-hp-gaming-pc-intel-core-i7-6700-2tb-hdd128gb-ssd... but I read that it has water cooling instead of air cooling and I am not sure if I need to do maintenance for water cooling . I have PC with air cooling now and every month I need to clean the inside of PC from dust.http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Desktop-Hardware-and-Upgrade-Questions/Require-HP-Envy-Phoenix-860-water-cooling-any-kind-of/td-p/5679383
I recommend downloading and running Reimage. It's a computer repair tool that has been proven to identify and fix many Windows problems with a high level of success.
I've used it in the past to identify and fix everything from blue screens (BSOD's), ActiveX errors, corrupt files and processes, dll/exe/sys errors, recover lost memory, Windows update problems, defragging, malware removal etc.
You can download it direct from this link http://downloadreimage.com/directdownload.php. (This link will automatically start a download of Reimage that you can save to your computer.)
Does a cooling pad work on a laptop that doesn't have vents on the bottom?
I have an HP Probook 455 G1 and the cooling pad doesn't seem to work at all.
Since pure alcohol, for example pure Isopropyl alcohol and distilled water are supposed not to conduct electricity. What would happen if I dipped a turned-on PCB into it? . What would happen to a motherboard?
OUCH ! Your assumptions may be spot on, but OMG why would one try this?????????
There's something called 'leakage' - - current flow when it's not expected.
I was working in an aerospace lab and the the EE had me perform an experiment because I said "the resistivity of the salt water was too low and leakage would trigger the device". So we got a bucket of salt water and dropped the device into the bucket - - precisely 30 seconds later (the designed timeout), the bucket erupted and salt water spewed everywhere [yes, the device was an explosive link].
The trigger point for the explosive was <500ma
Hi need some help here plz so a while ago I bought my first PC that wasn t bought on a wallmart cooling and Need it's for upgrading PC my advise I wasn t very knowlegeable on the topic and my budget was limited but Need advise for upgrading my PC and it's cooling with some help from the vendor who is an enthusiast I managed to get something I was happy with and I m still happy I can play nice games and do stuff but I think it s time for some upgrading here are the specs of my rig CPU AMD A K APU MHz BLACK EDITION Motherboard ASUS A- XM A Memory KHX C D B G x Graphics AMD RADEON R GB DDR Storage SEAGATE BARRACUDA TB REF - Case power source COOLER MASTER ELITE PLUS EDGE W AF-B P Other Peripherals LOGITECH G MMO KEYBOARD GAMEPAD Operating System WIN So that s about it Because of limited budget I didn t bought any other fans or disipators so the case has open slots for fans two on top above the CPU and MOBO and one on the upper back the case came with a fan in the front for the hard drive and there is the fan from the power source the CPU and the graphic card but that s about it The front fan pulls air from outside and the power source pulls air from the case forgot to put it on image but back slot is where quot BACK quot label is So basically I want to put to use those open slots on the case mostly because I live on a stupidly hot country like C hot and I do have had one event where the CPU shut all down because of overheat basically went above C I would like some advise as to how to choose a good product that fits my needs and what should be the configuration of the fans since I have read that air input and output should be balanced or bad things happen Also I wish to upgrade other parts of my rig the RAM is no brainer just get a sister to my existing card however the graphic card is another story The vendor assured me that the MOBO CPU and power source were good enough so that I wouldn t have any bottleneck issues if I later decided to upgrade the graphics however I would like your opinion on what can I expect to put on that rig without having those issues basically what are the highest graphic card specs I can expect it to run without problems I do have a personal preference for AMD solutions so keep that in mind since intel stuff costs are way way too inflated on my country I also want a new HDD SSD is still on the list but right now I want more storage so what would be a good option for that the one I have was basically a default option but I would like to know if that s ok or I would be better of with something else finally what should I keep an eye on when purchasing a display in the store they all look good but then I brought my new samsung display home and dark bright scenes look awfull and it makes me sad thank you very much in advance for your time and help and apologies for the wall of text nbsp
Well RAM should be no issue as to the fact your mobo can handle up to 32 gigs or RAM so another 1x8 gig should do you quite fine as long as the RAM matches CAS, voltage, DDR3, and speed; as you say "no brainer."
Go for an SSD and run your OS from that and utilize your hard drive for games. SSDs are coming down in price and it will make your load times so much faster.
As a fan of Cooler Master your case is fine. Here is a link to it from Newegg.com Seriously consider getting those fans and keep in mind that between intake and exhaust, exhaust is the more important of the two. Also, AMD chips run hot. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119256 - check out the fan options under specs.
Honestly, the only thing to upgrade for gaming purposes would be your video card. But here is my question: Are you having any issues gaming with your current system? If not seriously consider an SSD.
As for your monitor Samsung makes excellent ones. Did you calibrate/adjust the settings? What connection are your using: VGA, DVI, or HDMI?
By the way, really nice system on a budget. You got good advice.
Corsair is well known for its PC components spanning a range of categories -- from memory to cases, power supplies, cooling and more. But this year it's trying something new with Bulldog, a barebones, console-like Mini-ITX box that's designed for...
The case looks downright awful too me. I wouldn't have that thing displayed in my lounge.
Here ya go T, the final product...well probably not
2.2Kw Holodeck 7
Gigabyte GA-990-FXA-UD7 (rev 1.1)
16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2133 MHz
4 X HD 7970 Quadfire
1x Corsiar AX1200W
2x FSP Group X5 500W =1000W
1XNexXxos XT45mm x 360mm Rads
2 x NexXxos XT45mm x 240mm Rads
1x NexXxos XT45mm x 120mm Rads
3X VPP-655 Pumps
1X Phobya DC-12-400 Pump
Koolance 370 CPU Block
4 x Heatkiller GPU X-3 Waterblocks
Rad Fans: Coolermaster Excalibur
Bitspower & Monsoon Fittings
Primochill Advanced LRT Tubing
Case CoolerMaster Cosmos 2
Heatkiller X-3 Multilink Quad Bridge
BitsPower Z-Multi 250mML Reservoir
Eyefinity 3+1 Extended 5760 x 1080-25" Monitors
I did end up going full parallel on the GPU's They go from idle @ 28c to 36c under load (Heaven 4.0)
Many in the PC gaming world are turning their attention to AMD's upcoming Radeon R9 300 series launch and specifically, the R9 390X. According to the latest scuttlebutt, this card will ship with two different SKUs - an air-cooled version...
Having to resort to water cooling just to be on par with nvidia what a joke
amd with their hot running primitive brute force gpus
Anyone that spends a considerable amount of time in front of a monitor can attest that finding the right mouse is a must. While there are plenty of boxes to tick when searching for a suitable pointer, for me, it...
Roccat Kone XTD (laser). It's the best mouse I've had so far. My Death Adder has been demoted to closet duty.
It's been a long time since I last posted on this forum but this has been stumping me as of late.
I have a Thermaltake Water 2.0 Performer liquid cooling loop for a while and lately they have been acting up. I noticed that my temperatures on idle could sometimes go up as high as 80 celcius, which is absolutely not right.
This happened after I serviced my machine, and I think I bumped the liquid cooling around in the process of it. I noticed however, if I keep knocking my radiator on the side, the reported temperatures get cooler, and I notice that I can feel the hot air being dissipated from the fins (previously cool). The thing though is that after leaving it for a while again, the fins don't seem to dissipate anything, and the cpu temps start rising again.
I have a feeling that there are air bubbles getting stuck in the loop somewhere, but I have no idea how to get them out or at least out of the way in a closed loop.
Anyone have any suggestions/ideas?
Remove the cooling pad from the CPU. Make sure that the top of the CPU is clean. Apply new heatsink compound if it is used and re-assemble
A factory AMD or Intel heatsink is something I simply won't consider when building a computer. I acquired my first aftermarket cooler 15 years ago to assist in overclocking an AMD Athlon 500 (it reached 800MHz with help from a...
Mine is water cooled. Except instead of liquid its solid. And instead of water its aluminum. And instead of a pump its got a fan. Its actually a laptop.
I am considering upgrading my PC with a new CPU and some cooling for it.
At the moment I have an i5 4570 with stock cooler. It reaches 70c under heavy load.
I have a Bitfenix Mini ITX case using MOBO Gigabyte Z87N-Wifi,
I have been looking at an i7 4770K or 4790K, Is there any other better CPU in that pricerange you would recommend?
I have never overclocked but I have been planning to eventually overclock a little.
For cooling I have looked at the H105i , Would it fit my case even? I read its abit bigger then the H100i. I have checked the specs and as far as I can see it SHOULD fit?
Are there any other coolers you can recommend instead?
Thanks for any input or advice!
If you want a nice little yet powerful cooler, get the Hyper 212 Evo. It can probably handle a .2-.3GHz overlock at least.
My asus computer (idk what model) isnt cooling the gpu. It will idle at 75 than if I do any activity it will go to 100°. Ive tried cleaning and that didn't work very well so all I can do now is ask for help on the matter.
Give some specifics please, like what kind of GPU? some gpu run that hot NVIDA generally do not. Most of the newer NVIDA GPUs will not run 50 while under load. I am running a GTX 780 Ti at full load is 35C.
I am using a corsair H60 liquid cooler. Am I going to get better cooling results by putting the radiator on the top of the case and sucking room temp air in through the radiator and then pushing it out back with another fan(plus a front fan intake also). Or am I not going to notice anything by just having my front intake fan and push the air out through the radiator with a fan? Thanks.
It is probably best to push air out of the case with the radiator since that will probably lessen the amount of dust that comes into the radiator. That is my opinion though. Maybe someone else thinks otherwise.
Right first things first to mix it up a bit, I've started a minecraft server on an LINUX based operating system, I've followed all the steps that have been required to start the minecraft server and so on, I've portforwarded everything (something else about it comes up later) And done everything it has said to do. I've run minecraft servers before so I do know how they work
HOWEVER, Because I still want to keep the portforwarding on my main computer so that I will be able to host other things from it, I changed the minecraft server to 25566 and since doing that no one has been able to connect to it. The only way I can connect to it is the internal address:25566 and nothing else. Other than that it does not work at all.
Yes I have put the correct IP in
Yes I am using the external IP to connect to it but it won't allow me to join with the external IP address even if I put :25566 after it.
You said you've port forwarded it. Then you changed the listening port on server. Did you also change the port forward rule on router?
Thanks for this guide I want to water cool my rig The components to I water my want rig cool I want to water cool are fallowing i K over clocked to GHZ x MSI Lightening at stock May want to over clock it very little if any for benchmark purpose I would like to create a custom loop I did some planning in attached image that presents components I want to use and direction of air flow and water I want to water cool my rig circulation I spent hours jumping from I want to water cool my rig forum to forum and discovered that general rule of thumb is mm radiator per component and mm for overclocked component in my case that would be CPU GPUs mm of radiator in total Now why is my diagram presenting a total of mm that is because I read a radiator with high pressure fans that I want to use would perform just as good as the mm Rad and that is why Also I believe just like with PSU calculator I consider that my components will never at once be Load and go with utilization instead Seams like everyone have its own theory on this I want to water cool my rig Following is a list of components I want to use with links XSPC Raystorm EX Universal OR XSPC Raystorm EX Extreme Universal Phobya Xtreme mm Radiator x EK MSI GeForce GTX Lightning VGA Liquid x Corsair Air Series SP Corsair Air Series AF Quiet Edition x mm stock Corsair Air from D case I m seeking your expertise I feel like I need more radiator power but I m getting a new case and I don t want to hard mod this one Your input will decide if I will move on with this project or stay on air until next time The main reason why I want to go water is a challenge that comes with this project Thanks nbsp
To moderator not sure how to edit my previous post but I just wanted to apply a correction that I am not getting a new case for my pc
Hey guys, I was just wondering if you guys think I should get liquid cooling. Iv just got into overclocking and my over clock on my i5 3570k is at about 4.5Ghz from 3.4. When stress testing I get readings up to 100C. I dont know if my pc fans arnt doing their jobs (it feels like I only have control of 1 of them when messing with my knobs on my case). So I was wondering should I go liquid cooling? If so do you guys have a recommendation on a decent but preferably cheaper liquid cooling system thats compatible with my case, (dont want my fiance killing me)
This is my case
Any input on any aspects of this would be great! =)
You have an NZXT Phantom so I can suggest most liquid cooling systems would fit inside that with ease.
But forstarters, if your hitting 100C, that CPU is throttling and that is dangerous temperature levels for a processor. Are you running on the stock cooler? Because if you are I would turn that back otherwise you may end up burning up the processor.
If you want to overclock that far, liquid cooling would be optimal. Here is my suggestion with the case you have:
Very good, very powerful, and will keep your chip nice and cold.
For Christmas I got another mm case fan aerocool shark rpm and I tried mounting it at the top of the case to suck out hot air as I have intakes and exhaust already but I couldn t seem to get the right screws to screw it in at the top my case aerocool fan cooling Case question strike x gt came with long screws for the top of the case but they are too thin to screw into the fan So instead I mounted the new fan on the side door on the top fan slot by the CPU as an intake and today when I played a new game that I got for Christmas BF I noticed the CPU temps would get rather hot I am using the stock intel cooler bear that in mind I was getting a max temperature of about degrees C after a roughly Case fan cooling question hour gaming session Would I benefit from making the new fan an exhaust by the CPU or would I be better off or is there a secret way of mounting a fan up there at the top as an exhaust that I son t know about as I imagine that way would be the best way to do things Also my graphics card could handle BF at all max p with FPS Thanks EDIT - To clarify I have intakes at the front one rear exhaust and the new fan as an intake on the side door by the stock CPU cooler nbsp
For Christmas I got another 120mm case fan (aerocool shark 1500 rpm) and I tried mounting it at the top of the case to suck out hot air as I have 2 intakes and 1 exhaust already but I couldn't seem to get the right screws to screw it in at the top, my case (aerocool strike x gt) came with long screws for the top of the case but they are too thin to screw into the fan. So instead I mounted the new fan on the side door on the top fan slot by the CPU as an intake and today when I played a new game that I got for Christmas (BF3) I noticed the CPU temps would get rather hot (I am using the stock intel cooler, bear that in mind) I was getting a max temperature of about 80 degrees C after a roughly 2 hour gaming session. Would I benefit from making the new fan an exhaust by the CPU or would I be better off, or is there a secret way of mounting a fan up there at the top as an exhaust that I son't know about as I imagine that way would be the best way to do things. Also my graphics card could handle BF3 at all max 1080p with 60+ FPS. Thanks. EDIT - To clarify I have 2 intakes at the front, one rear exhaust and the new fan as an intake on the side door by the stock CPU cooler.Click to expand...
With stock coolers, the fan on the intel cooler is pulling the air through the heat sink off the CPU and into the case away from it. By putting a fan blowing air down on the CPU, you are pushing the air back onto your cpu thus keeping the hot air hovering around it.
I would suggest swapping to exhaust.
Howdy all The amazing folks at Tech Spot saved my bacon many moons back helping me fix a virus laden laptop for Brand New to can't HP connect 17 Internet Envy Quad Touchsmart my sick kid And so I turn to Brand New HP Envy Touchsmart 17 Quad can't connect to Internet you with my latest computer nightmare and beg of your assistance once again I just bought a new HP ENVY TouchSmart t-j Quad Edition Notebook PC ENERGY STAR for my daughter for Christmas It arrived yesterday and I opened it up to start preloading her software onto it so she can have it ready to go Christmas morning Unfortunately the thing just won t let me get connected to the internet via wifi It is using an Intel Wireless-N adapter running Windows factory installed I have tried everything I could think of - using Intel drivers instead of Microsoft ones resetting WINSOCK flushing the DNS using a static IP instead of dynamic the works Nothing appears to be working The device can clearly see my network - it shows up on the list of connections and validates my security information running standard WEP security - not the best I know but it s easier for the multitude of tech I have on my network all of which connects fine but it only gives me limited access and does not want to connect to the network or the internet My base system is running Windows My router is a Netgear Rangemax Wireless-N Gigabit Router WNR v I have not tried a hardwire connection yet as I really need this to be a wireless device Help me TechSpot Gurus you re my only hope nbsp
Hey Mark. I would connect to the Net by cable and allow it to get any OS updates and/or driver updates before I change any settings.While online,try to connect wirelessly to see if it finds any updates quicker.
Hello, after a water spill (about 2 days ago) most of my key's aren't working. also having problems starting up my laptop. it turns on after a while, but always insists going through system recovery. I ordered a new keyboard, but I'm worried about my laptop still
please excuse the bad grammar/punctuation. I'm using an on-screen keyboard.
Well honestly if the laptop itself is still functioning then that is an accomplishment. With the keyboard being bad yea that is going to have to be replaced. If the computer itself constantly wants to go to system recovery, try reverting the system back to an earlier date through system restore to see if that fixes your problems. If not, you may have an issue regarding the motherboard.
So I just about have all my parts to setup my water cooling loop, I just had a question on the best way to setup the Video cards, I have Two Heatkiller Gpu-X3 Full Coverage Water Block's for my XFX 7970 Black Edition Cards now I was just wondering Which config would cool them better the parallel or the serial operation? I'll be running a 360mm rad and a 240mm rad so I'm not should if it will really matter to much.
If it were me, I would do them serial because it to me is much easier and just looks the best. Besides, with the config your going with, you dont have to worry, even if you did try them both, I doubt the temps would change at all, I run my 6990's Liquid Cooled in a serial config which gives me beyond adiquette temps on a 360 rad and a 140 rad.
I'm needing some information that is extremely hard to come by.
The 740m in the HP Envy 17t-j000, does anyone know, or does anyone know WHERE to look (Google failed me, or I failed Google!) to find out whether it needs ACTIVE displayport -> HDMI adapters?
I question this because I know the 57xx series from ATI required active. The card only supported 1 RAMDAC signal (or something?) and the Nvidia's tech seems different. According to HP support, passive will work fine. I need to have the adapters ordered ASAP, but I do not want to order the incorrect ones.
Any assistance is appreciated.
I plan to buy a new graphics card very soon for my machine. I plan to purchase an AMD Card.
The plan originally, was to wait until the 8000 series cards are released on the 25th. I also wish to Liquid-cool the card.
Does anyone know of liquid-cooling kits for gpu's. Similarly like that of a Corsair h100i where everything needed is in a single kit?
Pump, Block and Radiator+Fan?
Without going into lots of money to purchase a limited edition card, are there any cards with liquid cooling pre-installed?
How long after amd releases there cards can I expect 3rd party manufacturers to release liquid looking for them.
How long after they release there cards can I expect 3rd party manufacturers to release there own cards, eg: Sapphire?
There's no AIO water cooling units for current GPUs, although there was this for the GTX 580. Even if there were they would be costly and totally not worth it. Buy an aftermarket card with a decent air cooler (e.g. Asus DCUII) which will run cool and quiet.
How long after they release there cards can I expect 3rd party manufacturers to release there own cards, eg: Sapphire?Click to expand...
I'm quite stuck on getting a PC case which will help with cooling. I'm looking for the best case at cooling in the £70 range. The case has to be big enough for graphic card upgrades (I currently have 5850 XFX Black Editions in crossfire). Examples of cases I've looked at are the Carbide 300R, HAF 912 Plus and Fractal Design R4. Please can anyone advise of the best case (in this class?) in the UK. I'm happy to add additional case fans to get better cooling!
MB is ATX, BTW.
Well since im going to assume air cooling I have a couple of options that I personally like for those types of systems:
NZXT Phantom Mid Tower
Corsair 400R or the 300R are both great options
There are many more but those are a few near your price point I recommend. I like the NZXT Phantom cases the most because of their room, expandability, and overall sleek look.
Basically im asking for confirmation for what I think I know and asking a few questions The way I get it the reservoir goes out to the pump the pump goes out to the first block the first block goes Trying Liquid to Cooling understand Loops out to a second Trying to understand Liquid Cooling Loops block if there is one and so forth the final block goes out to the radiator and the radiator goes out to the reservoir Is that correct Im assuming since air is all things bad does the resovoir need to be completely filled as in there can be no empty space in the loop at all the pipies and resovoir must both be completely filled at all times so if I ran out of coolant before the resovoir was filled id have to go get more If this was the case is there a way to tell when the system is full without flooding over the edge of the resovoir lol Also what is the most common ID and OD of tubing also what is the official term for the Trying to understand Liquid Cooling Loops things tubes are connected to Can someone explain how the tubing fastened I read initially that some tubing just stayed on via being stretched over the things they are connected to-which doesnt seem very safe I see these metal quot rings quot everwhere but am confused as to how those are fastened Finally the PSU setup I find confusing Why must you short the PSU when testing a loop why is that any different than just turning the PC on via button I guess you have no power supplied to you Trying to understand Liquid Cooling Loops rmotherboard but am I supposed to assume that when people short their PSUs that their graphics cards and hard drives are also unplugged Basically what does shorting the PSU do differently just unplug the PSU from everything except the pump then shorting it starts the pump is that it Another thing it would appear the best way to make liquid cooling systems light up is via UV but in alot of cases ive seen UV doesnt seem to have a strong enough effect on sleeving and cables and such-is there a way to make the loops light up nicely without abusing UV cathodes I can do one cathode but I dont want to have to use to make them look nice Im thinking light blue UV tubing coolant when I ask this question by the way Does using a block in custom loop void the warranties of any hardware under a block like a CPU it might be the same thing for using any other cooling system but im not particiuarly familiar with how warranties work as far as hardware every pc ive ever had is pretty much families old hardware that I refurbished myself lol Ive got a hypothetical build floating around in my head which I wont probably be able to afford very soon but I want to understand liquid cooling completely just in case I dont even trust myself enough to do it if I DID do this rig but if I trusted myself enough in the future I would like to know about it I think thats about it thanks for your patience nbsp
The only two guys I know for sure, that would have answers for you are dividebyzero and red1776. Hopefully they won't mind me tagging them.
I'm looking to buy a longer cable for this hard drive (Western Digital 2TB My Passport). One end is USB 3, what's the other? Would this be compatible?
A USB 2.0 cable will work. However the drive is USB 3.0 capable and if your PC has a USB 3.0 port you will want a cable like the one you linked. A USB 3.0 cable would be required for USB 3.0 transfer speeds. Also a USB 3.0 cable is backward compatible with USB 2.0 ports, so getting the USB 3.0 cable even if your PC only supports USB 2.0 is future proofing.
When I bought this computer it had windows 7 on it. it ran everything lag/shutter free. I have since upgraded to windows 8 then to 8.1. The problem is the audio and video noticeably lags/shutters. As if the entire computer is pausing. I have talked to HP tech support and they only reinstalled the drivers. All drivers are current. I am fairly sure it has something to do with the HD4k graphics but I do not know for sure. I was hoping the 8.1 would resolve the problem but it has not. I have this problem whenever I watch videos (on the internet or from file) and when I play World of tanks. Any help would be great
I seen similar comments re "since upgrading to Win/8" and (imo) think the drivers are not 'fully compatible' with the new system.
These are the items Im going to buy in a few months I m still in the planing stage What would you change X EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ - Full Copper - http www performance-pcs com cata t info amp cPath amp products id X Danger Den Delrin Fillport - http www performance-pcs com cata oduct info amp cPath amp products id X EK-PSC Fitting mm - G - Black - http www performance-pcs com cata oduct info amp cPath amp products id X EK EKoolant Premium Liquid Cooling Premix Coolant - ml - Blood Red - http cooling help Haf water 932 www performance-pcs com cata duct info amp cPath amp products id X EK-CoolStream RAD XTX - http www performance-pcs com cata t info amp cPath amp products id X EK-DCP V DC Water Pump - http www performance-pcs com cata cts id b e bc abc c fa b X EK-RES X Reservoir - http www performance-pcs com cata oduct info amp cPath amp products id X Bitspower Matt Black quot T quot Fitting - http www performance-pcs com cata t info amp cPath amp products id X Masterkleer Tubing PVC mm quot ID UV-reactive Dark Red m ft - http www performance-pcs com cata t info amp cPath amp products id X Corsair Air Series AF Performance Edition High Airflow mm Fan - http www performance-pcs com cata info amp cPath amp products id nbsp
I would have a look at a different fan model than you have there with the Corsair. The reason is illustrated in Martins Liquid lab tests.
63mm is a relatively thick rad and has a FPI of 11 compared to the Alphacool of 10FPI. The Corasairs have a static pressure of 1.2mmH2O at their max RPM of 1650 while a fan like the Evercool Titan TFD-12025H12ZP Kukri has a static pressure of nearly 3.0mmH2O at the same RPM.
In short, for a rad of that thickness I think you are going to want a fan with much higher static pressure.
I noticed you have three fans listed so I assume you are going to be having a 'push' setup so it makes it even more important to have fans that have a SP of at least in the 2-2.5mmH2O range. Better still in the 3.0-3.5 range if you are going to be doing any OC'ing. And of course your ambient temp situation should be taken into account as well. I am using the Alpha cool XT and UT series listed on the MLL charts you can see in the link below and tried a great many fans before settling on the CM Excalibur 120mm fans (3.53mmH2O) and can tell you that even going from the Cougar COUGAR CF-V12HP (2.2mmH2O) to the Excaliburs made a discernible difference in cooling performance.
My 2 cents worth
I recently bought a new computer already put together by experts which arrived and I continued to install get to grips with it I was very happy and it was completely silent Then out of nowhere the second day of owning it from the moment I turned it on in the morning the fans inside were incredibly noisy and have not stopped being this noisy since regardless of rebooting changing settings as to when they come on or anything I know it is not because the CPU has reached fan/cooling my on about Confused PC a certain temperature as Confused about fan/cooling on my PC it is literally as soon as I turn it on and besides I can see the temperature is not too hot I don t understand why they are suddenly so noisy and making Confused about fan/cooling on my PC so much noise it has baffled me I have tried everything I could Confused about fan/cooling on my PC think of short of opening the case and seeing just what the f is going on and which fan exactly it is - but this is my next step short of any informative insight others can provide I am fairly confident I should note that it is not an obstruction with the fan itself as it is a consistent unwavering and whirring sound Any light that can be shed on this why is it suddenly making so much noise and preferably how to fix it would be greatly appreciated as at the moment it can be heard from other rooms in the house Thanks Specs ZG - TL Zaward Golf Ball Fan mm Corsair Edition GS W Power Supply KFA GeForce GTX TI EX GB Gfx Card Gigabye Z MX-D H Intel Z DDR Micro ATX Motherboard Alpenfohn Panorama CPU Cooler Intel Core i k GHz Processor GB SSD TB HDD GB RAM Lian Li PC-V B Mini-Tower Case nbsp
Well, it depends on what fan is spinning up honestly. Since I'm assuming there is no fan controller, it's probably a bios setting that's changed for whatever reason or something to that extent.
I would check the bios fan settings and see what they are all set to.
So basicly the title says it I have my cooler master case w o the side window and ive been wanting to add some more fans to it I was wondering how much would if benefit if I added more side fans mm as in cooler temperatures for my pc mainly I want to add these to the case will I benefit from them at all http www coolermaster com product Detail cooling case-fan sickleflow-x-non-led html or with the led probably and another question I have my cpu which is oced to and the temps arent that hot as I never rly go that intesive unless im playing cpu bound games like gw in the heavy parts on wvw I was wondering if there was a good air cooler for my intel i - k it currently runs on but I w/o window Cooler Master 431 Side Cooling wish Cooler Master 431 w/o Side window Cooling to push it abit more could u list some good air coolers on the euro margin the hyper evo is in my mind but will it be enough nbsp
That is a good cooler, but I personally like at your budget range the Thermaltake CLP0575 Frio http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106178
But either will do you fine for 4.0ghz on a 3570k
As for more airflow, adding more fans can help, but make sure to just focus on having a good overall flow through the case which will be a huge benefit in general.
So my rig is as follows Case Corsair Obsidian D Processor FX Currently ghz Ram Gskill Trident X Mobo Asus Crosshair V-Z GPUs Powercolor HD s with Swiftech Epsilon Water Blocks Cooling XSPC RX Extreme Liquid cooling with a XSPC mm Single Rad at the back and the XSPC dual bay reservoir with Swiftech MC v Pump At the moment I have a Negative Air pressure going through my case due to lack of inputs for intake on the case Right now I have a mm Fan at the bottom intaking air and my Cooling 800D Obsidian Assistance Liquid Corsair and Radiators are mounted at the top and back areas Corsair Obsidian 800D and Liquid Cooling Assistance according to sizes exhausting with fans at top and at the back Right now temps even under gaming loads like BF are fine and Prime on my for an hour never exceeds degrees But I am trying to go a bit further and I dont like having a negative Corsair Obsidian 800D and Liquid Cooling Assistance air pressure Corsair Obsidian 800D and Liquid Cooling Assistance in the case because I like more air being pulled through the filters to prevent so much dust build up on the Radiators and such My Co-Worker recommended me reversing the to intake with a filter at the top and even though the air would be warm it would add better cooling is what he believes Im not so sure and I hate to do that and then just reverse it back because it harms the temps What do yall think or does anyone have any alternative solutions Bear in mind im happy with my current fans as they are nice fans and I like the sound I get from them They are Aerocool Shark mm and Cooler Master Sickle Flow mm fans My Cooling system currently runs in this order Reservoir Pump--CPU-- mm--HD s-- mm--Reservoir Pump Any ideas I wanted to have more overclocking headroom to eventually try ghz and also I just wanted to be able to have better cooling all around Thanks for any help nbsp
Massive OC CPU and TWO dual-gpu beasts, all off the one loop? All I can say is --> :O
I've got a guy who wants to double password protect his wifi. I know that having strong encryption, and a long password with alpha-numeric and non-alpha-numeric characters would work better for him, but I'm not sure I can convince him of that. Is there a way that I can require two passwords to get into a wireless network?
I dont think it is possible unless you invest in some expensive hardware such as those at businesses (where you need to login on a login page).
Hello to all that are reading this I am now in the process of building myself a new Rig the specs of which are below Corsair Obsidian D Asus Maximus V cooling First project ever water Formula Intel Core i - K Corsair First ever water cooling project Dominator Platinum x GB Asus Xonar Essence STX MSI GeForce N GTX Lightning Corsair Professional Series Gold AX W Modular OCZ Technology GB Vector TB Western Digital VelociRaptor Western Digital TB Caviar Black Now I have never dabbled with water cooling before except for the corsair H but that s not real water cooling but with a rig like this I really want to get into a proper water cooling system build Everything is at planning stage but I wanted to have loops one that goes through the CPU and Chipset motherboard has water cooling block already and another for the graphics card The Reservoir I chose because the reviews say it is very good quiet and overall very good Koolance RP- x Duel in Reservoir which can hold pumps Link Below http koolance com rp- x -dual- - in-reservoir-for- - -pmp- -s-pumps I also went for Koolance Pumps as well to keep everything compatible PMP- http koolance com pmp- -pump-id- mm- - in My question is can anyone here give me a simple list of items that I would need I can follow guides all over the net to setup everything but I m not so confident on what else I would need other than a ton of hosing Which connectors should I choose compression What piping thickness should I go for What are the best CPU blocks and GTX blocks I ve also got a few questions of my own what would be the best radiator setup in that case I am also going for a red and black theme and getting hold of red LED s and coolant is fine but I was wondering if they make Black coolant Any help or pointers would be deeply appreciated nbsp
A couple of very good CPU blocks for you. I have used both and they are excellent. They are nonrestrictive and are not TIM dependent due to the excellent contact they make. I have the 370 in mine right now and am moving to the 380 next week.
Here are reviews on those:
Its a long-shot, but if I can find a review of this block and it's as good I am going to give it a try:
One of the very good rads out there is the Alphacool NexXxos XT line. They are all copper (channels,tank,fins,tank caps, even the mounting screws) They have a very light paint job on the channels/fins and are very efficient and low restrictiveness. They also have access to all three sides of the tank giving you more routing options:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...pper_Triple_120mm_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s161. As far as the size of tubing, pick the one that appeals to you aesthetically, and matches the need for turns and bends in your case. I prefer 1/2" ID, but it's a cosmetic thing mostly. You will not see a major difference in temps from the 3/8" - 1/2" unless you are cooling multiple GPU's in a loop.
The fittings were an expensive trial for me. I landed on a combo of BitsPower (the best fittings on the market IMO) and Monsoon.
Personally I won't use anything but compression, but thats just my aesthetics preference.
As far as fans go for radiators. I don't go with anything less than 2.0 mmH2O static pressure. Short of getting into the noisy (30+ dB) range.
I tried/tested more fans that I care to remember and ended up using these:
Thet run at 3.53 mmH2O and really pull a lot of air through a rad. This is not scientific, but
observational that the static pressure curve seems very steep and they hold a disproportionate amount of their pressure at a lower RPM. Either that or Static pressure ratings are not well regulated or measured differently by various companies.
If extremely quietness is more important. The Cougars are very good. @ 19dB they are rated @ 2.2 mmH2O:
Do yourself a favor and cut in a custom, easy to access drain point for yourself. It makes things much easier.
This is how I did mine: ***The orange Arrow is pointing to it. I just used a acrylic block with G-1/4 fittings on three sides at the bottom of the loop. I can have it drained in 60 seconds.
As far as tubing goes, You will get many impassioned responses to this, but I will say PrimoChill tentatively. I find it has more of a rubber feel to it, a great consistent gloss finish, and will take tighter radius's before kinking.
You should however read the latest feedback on how the tubing you choose is working with the fittings you choose, hazing, and other properties. Fittings such as the Monsoon line are particularly dependent on the O.D. dimension being bang on for maximum effectiveness and workability.
I tried one brand of tubing that made the Monsoon a 'non-compression' fitting because the O.D. was under sized. It's worth purchasing a 12" snip of each tubing you are interested in for a test fit IMO.
Hope some of that helps.
Also make sure you check out Chefs Watercooling Guide for all kinds of good info.
That can be had here:
currently my CPU is at 85c and inside my case its 54c and teh GFX cards are at 41c
my setup is
i5 2500k NOT over clocked
8GB of G.Skill rip jaw... 2x4GB not over clocked
120GB crutial SSD
2x Seagate 1.5TB HDD
I have a antec 1200 case
I guess it doesnt help that its going to be 41c in sydney today
but I feel like I need to do some better cooling. I was thinking about cooling cpu and the 2 gfx cards aswell
what do you guys recommend?
Well 85c is extremely hot for an idle temp. What sort of cooling solution are you working with currently?
It seems like what ever CPU cooler you're using may be seated wrong or has too much thermal paste applied. Because 85c on a stock clocked & idle i5-2500k is terrible.
I got the Western Digital Passport and it's cable is so short that when I plug it into my computer it can't properly reach the desk. What kind of cable is this and where can I buy a longer one?
USB 2.0 or better still USB 3.0, it says on your link - Western Digital Passport
I have a Toshiba Satellite a205-s5000 that I replaced the power jack in. They sent me the wrong plug, mine was hard wired into the board so I cut and spliced the new plug to the wires coming out of the board and still no power. It has 2 red wires and 2 black wires, would it make a difference of which red wire and which black wire I connect to the red and black ones coming out of the board? Thank You for any help.
So they sent you a jack that needed to be soldered directly to the motherboard and the original jack was wired to the motherboard?
I have noticed my graphics card has become louder than it previously was........so I decided to put it through its paces using fur-mark and to my disappointment it was hitting max temps of 92degrees.
I have a tube of Arctic Silver lying around. So.....do I replace the cards stock paste or is there another trick that can help with cooling?
HIS HD6870......lightly overclocked
Furmark is specifically designed to stress test the card. Chances are high that you won't see this kind of stress in most games.
What kinds of cooling solution do you have in your case? Any side fans pointing to the GPU, sufficient airflow, etc?
I've just installed Corsair H60 liquid cooling and when I tried booting my computer up, after 5 seconds or so, everything stops. It happens every time I tried to boot the computer up.
My monitor was black and nothing appeared.
For 2 seconds before the entire system stops, the fan gets very noisy. And for the entire time the computer was booting up, my gpu's fan was even noisier than when I was playing my games.
I cannot get to BIOS or anything.
Why is this happening?
Cooling system: Cosair H60
Cpu: Intel I5 760
GPU: ATI 5770
Mobo: Gigabyte Ga-H55M-UD2H
PSU: 600W Max - 700W
You may have a short someplace between the motherboard and the case, or you may have bent the motherboard while installing the CPU cooler. I'd take the cooler out and replace it with the stock cooler and try again to see it the board still works. If it does I'd try the H60 again, but I'd make sure the motherboard wasn't under any extra stress from it.
I will be getting a silverstone kublai KL04 (http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=324) and an ASRock z77 extreme 4 and I want to get a new cooler as the stock one is not going to work for overclocking. I hope to get a 4.5Ghz overclock with reasonable temps, so I am in need of a pretty good air cooler. I don't care what it costs as long as it's under $150, which shouldn't really be a limiting factor for air cooling. Please post what you think I should get. Thanks.
You can't go wrong with any tower-style coolers out there, especially if you stick to well known brands. I'd probably favor noctua's NH-D14. They used specialize in fans, until they decided to come out with their own coolers as well some years back.
My O.S. is Dell dimension 3000, win xp home, sp3
I recently re-installed windows and some applications and now my computer works very well and FAST - BUT.........
the cooling fan is always on and runs very hard. I am wondering if anyone can explain what the fan is trying to do and why it runs so hard these days. There was a time when the fan was much quieter. The computer seems to be working just about as good as it did when I re-installed things and many virus scans have turned up no malicious problems. When I re-installed windows, I cleaned out the inside of the tower so I don't believe the fan is trying to make up for accumulated dirt in the tower. I'd like to understand what is going on with the fan and, if it's a problem, fix it soon.
Thank you for your help here,
When you reinstalled XP did you also install the chipset drivers?
I'm looking for a cord that has one end that is a female 24 pin connector and the other end have 2 male 12 pin connectors. Does anyone know where I could find one of those?
Someone can lock this thread now I don't need that cord.
ok fist before I start the question here is my build Desktop Case Cooler Master Elite Mid Tower ATX Case with Window MotherBoard GIGABYTE GA- XA-UD AM AMD X SATA questions CPU/desktop cooling Gb s USB ATX AMD Motherboard Ram Corsair Vengeance Blue GB DDR CPU AMD FX- FX -Core Black Edition Processor CPU/desktop cooling questions Socket AM PS Corsair Builder Series CX watt Plus Certified Power CPU/desktop cooling questions Supply Hard Drive Western Digital Caviar Green TB SATA Intellipower MB Cache Graphic Card VisionTek Products Radeon GB DDR PCI Express Graphics Cards OS Windows ultimate Bit This is a Custom Desktop I bought and put together so I added this just in case so I don t get ask abought what I got Ok im using the Stock fan for the CPU my temps on load for gaming System C CPU C is this good temps and as of right now I ordered mm CPU/desktop cooling questions Fans for the case and want to know what I should get for the CPU im thinking of getting the Corsair Hydro series H since the H wont fit my case do you guys have any other suggestions nbsp
That is a bit warm if you are running the 8150 at stock speed , but the H-80 will bring the CPU temp down by 20c +/- . adding a few fans for flow is a good idea as well.
I have satellite L645, I have used it for year and suddenly comes out pop up message, system warning, about cooling system. Any solution to this? It's really annoying. Pop up repeatedly for many times.
Your computer is telling you that it's hot and may need to shut down. If your computer continues to warn you that it's hot you will want to make cleaning out the dust a priority because the extra heat can break your computer.
Well it seems that over the years your laptop has collected dust in the heat sink and fan and is now overheating or beginning to overheat. You can buy a can of compressed air, and while the computer is turned off you can shoot some of that air into the intake vents to see if the accumulated dust will come out of the exhaust vents.
If your overheating condition doesn't improve, your second option would be to take your laptop apart and reuse the compressed air directly on the accumulated dust in the heat sink and fan. The second option isn't recommended for the inexperienced because you'll more than likely need a moderate level of skill to disassemble and reassemble the laptop, and you'll need to clean the processor of the old thermal paste, and reapply new thermal paste to the processor before you reattach its heat sink.
All of those steps can be a bit scary for the first timer.
Hello My current build consists of Antec DF- I have done some mods to the case ill link it as soon as I have some pics Asrock Z Extreme Gen Intel i - k ghz I want higher Gbs of DDR GB Sata hardrive GB SSD for cacheing a water noob cooling! with Help with the Z I only have the stock cooler for the cpu in anticipation for water cooling x Sapphire Radeon Dirt edition in Xfire A full cover block does not exist for this card or at least that I Help a noob with water cooling! know of I will post pics as soon as I have the time to get them I found most of the componets using cooling configurator I want this to be entirely contained in the case except for some radiators on the exterior that resembles this build Here http www techpowerup com gallery html So what I have is all found on frozencpu com This is a all inclusive cooling system where aesthestics I want as much to be red and black as possible I have read multiple guides for liquid cooling but I always feel like I missed something here what I have so far Magicool Extreme Dual mm Radiator - Slim Profile MC-RADI This is to help with compatibility with the case This is for the top dual mm fans on the top of the case Also if you look at the case could you recommend other radiator placements Select G quot Fittings Qty quot ID Barb EK Supreme LTX CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Electroless Nickel Plated EK-Supreme LTX - EN Nickel Select G quot Fittings Qty quot ID Barb - Black x EK VGA Supreme HF -Bridge Edition- Universal High Performance VGA Cooling Block - Acrylic EK-VGA Supreme HF Bridge Edition Select G quot Fittings Qty quot ID Barb Feser Tube Active UV Hose - quot ID quot OD Anti-Kink Tubing - UV Red Steel Spring Hose Clamp for quot OD Tubing - Black Enzotech BCC Memory Ramsinks - Pack BMR-C L Danger Den Monsoon quot Premium quot D MCP Dual Bay Reservoir - Black Black Face Red Trim Red LEDs RES- - New Revision Swiftech MCP -B Fits inside the reservoir Select G quot Fittings Qty quot ID Barb PrimoChill Anti-Kink Coils - OD quot Tubing - UV Red Mostly for asthetics but I m afraid that things will become rather cramped I do wish I could find some motherboard MOSFET blocks I have tried coolingconfig but the only recommended blocks that they have they do not actually sell My Cards have MOSFET sinks already installed however VRAM may be a problem I don t know enough to tell Also if I can get kinda the same look with somewhat comparable cooling for less and you know of these parts or part stores where I can get this stuff I would really appreciate a link Thanks in advance Tabby nbsp
You may want to read Dividebyzero's water cooling guide. It's located in the Guides and Tutorials section of the Forums.
Hey guys im buying a new pc with a i73820 and i pretend to oc him in the future so my question is : Do i have to put an hydro colling system on it or just a good quality cpu fan would handle the job? And one more thing there`s by any chance a risk of the liquid system (those like h60 , h80...) starts leeking on the boards?Thx for the help
Ps: Where a live have a quite bit hot temp
That depends on how far you want to push your OC. Unless you are going to assemble a bespoke watercooling system yourself, I would not bother with any closed loop cooler below the H-100. The H-60/H80 and the like are discernibly out performed by the high end air coolers like The Thermalright Silver arrow, Phanteks PH-TC14PE and the Noctua NH-D14.
as far as leakage, it is highly unlikely that they will leak unless they are damaged.
Sorry I wasn t exactly sure where to post this thread I looked up how to remove this warning that keeps coming up on this forum earlier and followed the procedure someone posted about renaming a file called TWARNMSG EXE i couldn t find that file and as the problems and the make of laptop were slightly different I thought I d post my issue My laptop is a Toshiba Satellite Pro C - W and I have a message that keeps coming up every seconds headed quot System Warning quot and reads quot Warning A problem with the cooling system has been detected C660-16W cooling Pro warning system -- Satellite Repetitive Toshiba Next Line Please turn off the computer immediately and return it for service quot I have had this warning coming up for months and tolerated it but it has gotten worse and annoyed me for the last time I can hear the fan and the computer is not over heating No other issues arise like the computer slowing down it just gets in the way of what I am doing like typing right now As I have typed it s already popped up - times Please help soon this is preventing me from gaming and even other things by now Thanks nbsp
I'm going to have your thread moved to a more appropriate forum. Please stay subscribed.
Note: TWarnMsg twarnmsg.exe > Toshiba System Warning Function for Windows 98, Me, 2000 - provides notification dialog when the cooling fan stops ...
This is a valid program, but it is up to you whether or not you want it to run on startup.
There are some rogue programs that give fake alerts or 'critical system messages.' But this isn't one of them. It is specific to the brand of system you have. It might be that someone in the other forum has another idea- but my suggestion would be to take it to a show and have them open and clean out the box.
My L500 fan is no longer working correctly
I am getting this message
Warning:a problem with the cooling system has been detected. please turn off the computer immediately, and return it for service.
The fan runs inconsistently (always for a few seconds on start-up, very sporadically the rest of the time, but it is completely stationary for the most part.
The computer is currently in pieces, and I am ready to replace the fan with a new one, however im not sure that will fix the problem (as the fan still seems to sometimes run).
Thread Name - 'My Toshiba Satellite l500 cooling fan has stopped working'
This closed thread had a post at the bottom by kristain, has anyone else encountered and resolved something along these lines
Please excuse the lack of link/PM (new member restrictions)
Are you going to replace the fan or the entire cooling heatsink and fan? Was the heatsink clogged with dust? Keep in mind, this also may be a motherboard issue
I've decided on upgrading to a water cooling system for my CPU, and two GPU's (most probably a set of 680's), curently have two 560 Ti's, and a i5-2500k CPU
I'm not sure a dual loop is the best solution or a single loop with two radiators and a decent pump. EKWB have some pretty decent stuff so I'll be getting most components from them.
I've done a quick picture of the setup I was thinking of for a single loop. I'll be setting it up in either a Corsair 800d or 650d case, with the 800d obviously having different radiators.
Anyone know if this is a good way to go for a setup like this?
You need a pump with a good amount of head pressure for a single loop of this kind.
Oh and larger rad for gpus pls. Other than that this setup is fine.
I sent my laptop in to be serviced under warranty because the keyboard would not work. was denied service because of water damage but now my screen doesn't work, can someone help
Water can destroy a laptop or any other electronic device. Chances are that the water sat underneath the keyboard and flowed onto the motherboard where it dried causing corrosion and damaging the motherboard permanently. You could take the laptop to a repair shop and they could give you a repair estimate. Of course, you will have to pay for this repair. If a liquid is spilled on a laptop in the future, immediately open it and turn it upside down. This allows the liquid not to hit and pool on the motherboard, or in a keyboard
I have this card in a Dell Optiplex. I thought it was a DVI connector but none of my monitors or adapters will fit it. Thanks
I looked it up and it appears to be a DMS-59 connector. See here for an explanation: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DMS-59
yesterday I noticed that about every other restart my CPU idle temp would shoot up about 25c. After checking for trapped air and such, I turned to the radiators. I broke out the BK 5500 and had a look
so far so good
This one is actually taken from inside the rad looking out ( that's a light fixture on the ceiling.
guess what the blue thing is? that is a protect plug for the inlet/outlets. I went back and looked in the radiator box and had the correct amount, so it apparently got pushed in at the factory. it does a great job of restricting flow though
While I had it apart i installed a second pump.
Before the plug broke loose and started messing with things i installed some sensors and was running :
Delta temp: idle/load 18c
Rad out/CPU block out 3c
Koolance 370 CPU WB
Alphacool all Cu 360mm x 45mm rad w/ 3 x Cougar VH-12 fans * Rear case exhaust is a Cougar VH-14 140mm*
Alphacool 240mm x 45mm Rad / W/ 2 x CM 75 CFM + 2 x Kinghwin DB-125 white LED fans
Alphacool VPP655l Pump /
Danger Den RAD-Reservoir
Primochill 3/4" Tubing
Silver Kill Coil
There is a AlphaCool all Cu 360mm x 45mm rad pull in the roof, and a 240mm x 45mm Alphacool rad push/push* below. Temps are spectacular. 5.0Ghz+ seems in the bag.
This is going to be the never ending project. next up more sleeving, lighting, and carbon fiber veneer work,
GPU loop will be be after I decide on what GPU's are going in next.
Superb on mate
anyone here have any knowledge of water cooling the socket 771 cpu? I need to water cool a dual socket 771 mobo.
I have a supermicro server board with 2 dual core socket 771 cpu's. This is an always on server in an office and I really need to quiet it down a bunch as well as cool the beast better! idle temps are around 55C on air with Thermalright coolers.
Hey guys. I recently installed my first liquid cooling system. It is currently cooling just the CPU, but I am upgrading so I can liquid cool my two GTX 460s as well. My question is, how? Do I split the incoming water three ways and send one tube to each component (CPU, 460, 460). Or do I go through the CPU, out to the first 460, out to the second 460, to the pump/reservoir, back to the CPU. I ask because I figured the water would be hot coming out of the CPU and it wouldn't make sense to go directly to other parts that need to be cooled. On the other hand, splitting the water 3 ways seems like it would weaken the flow enough that all three parts wouldn't be cooled ver well. So neither system seems quite right. Am I missing something?
Don't split the flow three ways, keep it going from one waterblock to the next. If you're concerned about it getting too hot on the CPU, then flowing to the video cards, I'd suggest throwing a second radiator inbetween, usually just a single 120mm, then a 240mm or bigger as the flow leaves the video cards. Another option is to create a second loop, with it's own individual reservoir, pump, and radiator, but that adds more expense.
Is there a kind of routers to receive Wi-Fi then share it with several computer? if yes, any recommendation? Thanks in advance!
let's confirm what you are asking . . .
isp--->someRouter .. . . wifi connection . . . to second router - -- shared connections
yes, that is possible. the second router acts as a bridge and wired systems can use it.
to use 2nd router with wifi to 'shared connections' you need another wifi router, eg
. . bridge router --wired-3rd router with wifi . . . shared systems
Does anyone know a good brand for notebook cooling pads?
Im looking for one, and maybe you guys have one that you're very happy with?
Outstanding cooling pad.
I've just acquired a second hand motherboard that needs a good clean. Apart from the usual vacuum cleaner and make-up brush routine would it be okay to give it a bath in de-mineralised water to shift the dirt?
Wow, it must be really dirty if you have to resort to bath it. Never heard of using DI water. DI water is not compatible w/ all metals, so if you're using it, I'd suggest drying the board quickly & completely. What about using isopropyl alcohol?
i am geting a new pc for my self and i was wondering what the best cooling method is
Watercooling but brings more headaches and is more "difficult". That said a very powerful air cooler can do a job well if you really want it "cold" if you are going to consider overclocking.
That said Air cooling tends to add more "noise" although its easier to do then Watercooling (as in easier to install).
But it depends if you are going to OC or not and if "noise" will be a problem or not.
In American currency, could I get one for like 50$? Are they dangerous? Like could they get your rig wet and ruin your hardware? I live in Arizona and I am tired of these noisy fans. Also my computer heats my room up a bunch which sucks when its 115 f outside. Would a water cooling system make my computer put out less heat? How about one of these?
My specs are in my system specs, btw my video card seems to put out a ton of heat as well.
Would a water cooling system make my computer put out less heat?Click to expand...
Never used water cooling, but I would say no. Most water cooling system removes more heat from the CPU or GPU then air cooling, so your system will probably put out more heat.
I read somewhere that because Peltier cooler can become really cold than it causes condensation problem. But that's better left for someone w/ experience to answer.
Hey guys, I?ve got a problem with using my RAM ? I used the thermal tape to attach my heatsink on it yet it?s still very hot. Sigh ? seems like my cooler doesn?t cool down the RAM properly. My card was almost ruined when I tried to remove the heatsink. Please help !!! Is there something like a thermal pad that can resolve this problem?
are you speaking of the GPU memory? or the ram modules? Ram is designed to run at relatively high temps ( in most cases 85C) you can buy Ram fan sets, but they can be noisy and can have interference problems. the best thing you can do is have goos case airflow. what makes you think it is running beyond spec?
i have a toshiba satellite and on the back it says the model name is satellite l500-1dt.
i am new to this website and using forums, the message that comes up on my computer is
Warning:a problem with the cooling system has been detected. please turn off the computer immediately, and return it for service.
i am currently working in the alps and do not have an english speaking computer shop near by.
could any one help me and advise me what to do, i do not know much about taking a laptop apart to clean or change parts.
I would purchase a can of compressed air or use an air compressor (with a light gentle nozzle) and blow the dust out of the inside. If you have a failed cooling fan, then it will need to be repaired or replaced. That model I think is rather old, it may not be worth it to repair.
Hello I am would like to know how much I could OC the AMD Phenom II x T Black Ed with the stock cooler Could I reach up to GHz Would it be stable I am not really confident in OCing with the stock cooler I would like to know what would be a good CPU cooler for the AMD overclocking II 1100T + cooling x6 AMD Phenom Phenom II AMD Phenom II x6 1100T overclocking + cooling x T BE I would like to reach AMD Phenom II x6 1100T overclocking + cooling at least GHz with the aftermarket cooler Would the Cooler Master Hyper be good enough If not could you give me some suggestions I am not looking for anything expensive up to about Euros maybe less Here is the rig I will be using AMD Phenom II x6 1100T overclocking + cooling CPU AMD Phenom II x T Black Edition Motherboard GIGABYTE FXA UD Ram x GB Dual Channel DDRIII GPU GeForce GT - I will upgrade in the future hopefully PSU Corsair TX HDD TB CPU Cooler CoolerMaster Hyper - maybe something else depending on how good this cooler is Target CPU speed at least GHz Thanks in advance nbsp
While a 4GHz overclock for the Phenom 1100T is fairly typical and taking into account that the CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ is a pretty good cooler for the price; you may be able to achieve a stable 4GHz overclock. That will depend primarily the amount of voltage needed and the corresponding issue of heat, as the saying goes "Your mileage may vary".
Keep in mind that you have the option of adding a second fan in a push-pull configuration for better cooling with your current 212+.
I have recently bought an Asus HD6950 and flashed it to a HD6970. With that flash my temps have gone up to around 85~86`C so i was thinking of getting a aftermarket cooler....... but, I cant seem to find one that suitable for my needs:
1. It has to be a dual slot cooler because i am definitely going to go crossfire in the near future
2: It should preferable be quiet but also cool well. If i need to sacrifice quietness for cooling, so be it.
3: it has to fit my HD6950/6970 (duh!)
My PSU is well able to handle and extra power sources (1000w overkill i know...)
So any suggestions???
you can try this, im not sure how many slots it is but by the looks it takes 2 slots =P!
Are laptop cooling units units worth it? I'm debating getting one.
Yes, especially if you are gaming. Nevertheless, they are good even for every day computing use.
4 days ago my son spilt a small amount of water into his Lenovo G 530 laptop keyboard.
We have opened the back of the computer, dried it under an air conditioner and used a hair blow drier on warm. Each time we boot the laptop it beeps and nothing comes onto the screen. Is there anything else we can do? Thank you
It might be too late now, but for future reference always turn the laptop upside down on a towel or other porous surface. The "small" amount of water settles on the motherboard and corrodes and rusts the wet areas. This can short out the motherboard... In this case, I am sure you motherboard is fried
I have recently bought an Asus HD6950 and flashed it to a HD6970. With that flash my temps have gone up to around 85~86`C so i was thinking of getting a aftermarket cooler....... but, I cant seem to find one that suitable for my needs:
1. It has to be a dual slot cooler because i am definitely going to go crossfire in the near future
2: It should preferable be quiet but also cool well. If i need to sacrifice quietness for cooling, so be it.
3: it has to fit my HD6950/6970 (duh!)
My PSU is well able to handle and extra power sources (1000w overkill i know...)
So any suggestions???
Did you buy a 3rd party video card cooler yet?
Hello guys this is my first post in this forum.
I work in IT support, and I came across a problem with someone I work with.
Guy called Tony, had a USB stick in one of his front USB ports on his computer, he accidently kicked it and broke some of the USB off in the port.
He has 2 ports on the front, and now when he plugs something into the one that isnt broken, a cooling fan at the top of the computer goes crazy, and it cant be stopped until the computer is shut down, and the USB doesnt register on the computer.
Is this a problem with wires? Or is it just a problem where the ports at the front need replaing all together?
Is this a problem with wires? Or is it just a problem where the ports at the front need replaing all together?Click to expand...
Hard to say at this state.
By "a piece broken off", do you mean Mr. Tony broke the flashstick so that the USB-male is still plugged in, but the drive itself has been detached? Have you removed the piece which is still inside? (It helps ) - also, which OS is the computer running? This is sort of important, as different OS's works (a little) differently regarding the USB-ports.
Currently, it looks like you simply need to remove that piece stuck inside. Although if that doesn't fix the problem (or if there is no piece stuck inside), then probably a connection or two inside the port broke when the flashstick was kicked - resulting in a need for changing the entire port .
I have a fairly old dell model desktop computer Usually I can fix any problems that come up but I need some help with this one Couldn t say what specs I have b c I can t remember The load screen says quot dell dxp series Bios revision quot The normal OS is XP but I have vista instead I ve been using it this way for years at least It does not have keyboard Unique problem of kind the old style keyboard Unique kind of keyboard problem mouse ports instead it has quite a few usb ports and you have to Unique kind of keyboard problem have a usb keyboard and mouse I also have a webcam and phone charger plugged into the usb slots Today it started making the sound that it discovered a device and then the device was unplugged over and over I couldn t do anything with it I had to forcibly shut down the computer and now it does t recognize the keyboard at all Windows can t just start up because some time ago the air temperature sensor has stopped working so I have to push F to go on It s pretty cool where I live and I don t fear overheating Anyway the light on the mouse comes on The phone will still charge so I am scratching my head a bit on this one With no keyboard I can t even start the computer up fully to try and diagnose the problem nbsp
It may be that your usb has failed (partly or completely),
or it may be that the keyboard has failed.
Have you tried unplugging all usb devices, then attach your keyboard to different usb ports?
Have you tried a different keyboard?
Since you note a heat issue,
I would tend to suspect the failure is internal, but that is just suspicion. ...
eg that the mainboard has reached (or is reaching) the end of its useful life.
If you find that your keyboard will not work in any usb port,
and that the keyboard swap also does not work,
one final option MAY be to add a USB PCI card,
if you have a regular pci expansion slot free.
(though some Dells are very limited in this regard)
This may get you back into business for a while.
USB was designed only to allow a certain amount of current draw per port.
If that is being exceeded, it could damage the port,
or it could cause the external device to malfunction.
This can be especially problematic with USB drives.
These should be used with their own (wall-wart) power supply,
rather than even the USB "Y" cable work-around.
(though some may work beautifully with the "y" cable for quite some time,
leaving one mystified when it finally does fail.)
the hp pavilion dv4 2012la have problems win heat because no have suficien enough grids for cool faser and wen is get hover head the tous pad works bad the solution is upgrade the bios of the note book and usa a coler and make some holes close too the gpu and cpu. if you have more problems win soud and video send a letter win the problem maibe i can help you
Spelling a problem for you? ...or is your keyboard messed up?
I ve just installed a new processor my friend gave me Intel Pentium Dual Core E It s clocked at ghz and obviously dual core However I only had the stock fan heatsink from my older processor Intel Core Duo E Now when I run my computer my fan is extremely loud and the processor runs between mid s to low s at cooling Processor idle When I tried playing Processor cooling Crysis it shot up to C I m assuming this is unsafe but Processor cooling not sure how to deal with it Here is what I am thinking Could I get some feedback The E stock cooling setup isn t enough for the stronger If this is the case I ll need to get an aftermarket cooler Does anybody have reccomendations for one that isn t too expensive I don t need to be silent but tolerable at least now mine sounds like a jet engine I didn t have any thermal paste at the time so i just put the processor in and put the fan Will applying some help at all Do I need to try a certain variant Thanks in advance nbsp
You need thermal paste for proper heat transfer, thats is probably why it's so high. You could grab some arctic silver 5 from a lot of PC stores out their, it's good paste and easy to apply.
Hello again guys, well im about to finish my build and i would like to know how to avoid heat problems and how to get a nice power protection (power backup) for my PC.
The main reason of my build is for gaming, WoW to CoD.
My pc parts are:
AMD Phenom II quad 3.2 Ghz
Videocard Nvidia ddr5 1GB
4 GB ram ddr3 1333 2x 2GB
ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3 AM3 AMD 890GX HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard
320GB HDD and i know i have to buy a better one xD
I dont know if only with fans i will keep out of heat issues or if i have to buy something else. I haven't buy the videocard yet so is there a good video card for a good price it would be helpful =D
Videocard Nvidia ddr5 1GBClick to expand...
PSU 500wClick to expand...
4 GB ram ddr3 1333 2x 2GBClick to expand...
Please be more specific.
Hi I am also new to water cooling I have been reading some other user s posts and I am going to request some custom professional help on my system My system specs are Case Thermaltake Spedo Advance Package Black mm SECC Steel ATX FullCase CPU Intel Core i Motherboard Asus P T Deluxe V RAM Corsair Dominator GB DDR Video EVGA GeForce GTX MB XFX Radeon HD GB PSU Tagan BZ Series BZ W With this system I am currently OCing close to GHz Also I am OCing the Video card the thread water Another cooling GTX being my primary the other is not OC ed As you could probably imagine my system is getting pretty hot A few tests get Another water cooling thread my GPU up to Celcius no problem Along with water cooling I am looking to upgrade my video cards to get two in SLI or Crossfire I was considering the Radeon HD I can seem to find water blocks easily enough for that Here are my main questions I WANT to water cool the CPU and GPU s no question but is it worth it to water cool motherboard components ie RAM chipsets Is it cost effective If I set up water cooling for my RAM and motherboard components and I going to notice or will this be a bunch of money for a very small gain Also it seems difficult to find water blocks for the Asus P T Deluxe V chipsets if its recommended to cool them should I upgrade this and recommendations nbsp
This may be difficult for some to comment on. But one question that would help me out. Do the chipsets on the P6T board get too hot for the stock cooler when OC'ing? I'll take some temps and post again. I do not know what is too hot for chipsets. I only know a rough estimation for CPU and GPU's.
Can somebody state that the record for sandy brige is 5.79ghz overclocked
why don't you just overclock 2 cpu's at 5Ghz, cuz 2 x 5Ghz = 10Ghz......oh wait!...thats not how that works! silly me:blush:....:rolleyes:
western digital 64 mb cache 1.5 tb 7200 rpm
nvidia evga gtx460 se
SL9ap/pentium d 3.6 4mb/cache
ddr3 xms3 1333 99924 2 sticks 4g
biostar tp45e combo mobo
5 things plugged into usb
coolmax 700w cu-700b (possibly a piece of **** because i believe its been making my computer randomly crash for the 3 months)
A good quality 450w-500w will suffice for your system. I use a lot of the Corsair HX series in my customer builds and have no problems. Silverstone , FSP, and Seasonic are excellent as well. and good investments to be carried into the next build.
My 2 cents worth
So im using the retail fan/heatsink, yeah it works, but any wise upgrade ideas?
i try overclocking with this but it fails, often.
depends on how much you're looking to overclock, because there are some really good air coolers out there. you could also just try using a better thermal compound like TX-3 or the OCZ stuff. have you been monitoring temps or do you just think that the heat is what's causing the computer to crash? again, it sort of depends on the hardware and how much you're looking to push it.
new to water cooling what would i need to get me started if was to change system to water cooled
spec are Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit
Intel® Core? i7-950 Processor the Corsair Hydro Series? H70 for cpu
Chipset Intel X58 ICH10R chips NVIDIA GeForce 480 GTX
Directx 11 Asus P6T SE
Realtek® ALC1200 8 -Channel High Definition Audio
Optical Drive ATAPI DVD A DH20A4P SCS
Optical Drive PIONEER BD-ROM BDC-202 ATA Device
Printer Brother MFC-490CW
power supply Corsair Professional Series HX1000W
Obsidian Series? 800D Full-Tower Case
any ideas and thanks
where is the video card?
have you done water cooling before?
are you looking to build from the ground up or get a kit?
so about half a glass of water Rebuilding that a Dell had water laptop accident a got spilled onto my laptop keyboard while it was Rebuilding a Dell laptop that had a water accident in standby mode i immediately unplugged it removed the battery disassembled it and let it sit in some rice over night unfortunately i was too anxious and did not wait long enough upon turning it a few days later the screen flickered out and went dark there was is still life in the laptop when the power Rebuilding a Dell laptop that had a water accident button is pushed the normal lights start up but the screen and fan remain off since then i ve got a working motherboard and screen fairly cheap off ebay and after installing both properly the same startup lights turn on and the screen remains dark now i m thinking i needs to replace the intel processor the ram and some of the other components remained dry but i do not really know what components could have been affected i always thought if a computer fried and you replaced the motherboard then it would be fine but is it possible for the processor ram wireless card etc to be fried as well and if the original motherboard was indeed fried would any of the startup lights turn on or would it just be dead btw i bought a refurbished laptop off of newegg com and its decent so fixing this dell is now just a hobby of mine really but its something i d like to do any ideas are greatly appreciated thanks nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/rebuilding-a-dell-laptop-that-had-a-water-accident.160993/
Hello all I recently picked up a Gateway E which has the slim case I know its old but it was free I did purchase a new HDD for it as well as a DVD-burner Other than that it already had GB of memory and a slim MicroATX Gateway solutions for a Cooling Series - case E GHz M Pentium processor I would really like to use it but it is VERY loud I don t see how someone could work with Cooling solutions for a MicroATX slim case - Gateway E Series it on their desk annoys the Cooling solutions for a MicroATX slim case - Gateway E Series heck out of me I removed the heat sink cleaned off the old grease and blew out all the dust Cooling solutions for a MicroATX slim case - Gateway E Series and reinstalled with new grease This seemed to help a little but not very much At idle the processor temp hovers around C is that normal for this processor The fan speed depends on the case temperature or processor temp so when it gets warm the fan is really turning up to rpm I saw Its not really the fan itself that is making noise but its the air flowing through the case fan that makes it sound like a jet engine Are there any suggestions I really don t want to put any more money into it but I was thinking about just getting a different case This would require me to buy a new PSU and heatsink fan also Having the slim case is not a big deal to me Thanks nbsp
No, 60C at idle isn't normal. You were on the right track with changing the case. Most of my CPUs run in the neighborhood of 35 to 40C at idle. (The exception is my Prescott P-4 in an Emachines T-5026, which ATM, is 53C under light load). I haven't seen 60c since the last 100 degree day in my non air conditioned house
I'm curious about the CPU, you've included everything except the actual part number.
You should also investigate to verify that your motherboard is an actual mATX form factor, so that it would mount correctly in a standard case.
One quick question, were the temps that high before you remounted the HSF?
I have been trying to cool my computer down for the past several weeks and so far it has not worked. I bought a cooling pad and looked online for other ways. I want to cool my computer because once my GPU gets to hot my game starts to run at around 5 fps. then i have to wait for it to cool down and then play again and repeat. When my game starts lagging it is when my computer's GPU gets to 110C. I know the heat of my computer because i use speedfan. Thank you. This is a laptop.
Can you give a little more info? Is this a PC or a laptop? Cooling pad makes me thing laptop.
If it's a PC, what type of case do you have? What type of fans and how many do you currently have.
Ok... I live in a building split into flats, (3 floors), the guy on the bottom floor and I share the internet cost, (wireless), but the router is downstairs in his flat.. I can pick it up fine in my back room and bedroom but not in the front room, (where my P.S 3 and P.C live)... With a network cable, (attached to my my laptop in the back room), I can share the internet with the front room but don't like the masses of wire trailing through my place..
I have a wireless router and am wondering if I can somehow use it to take the connection from my laptop and send it, wireless, to the front room - My P.C and PS3.. A bit long winded but I hope you understand what I mean and would greatly appreciate any help you could offer... Thank you...
There are routers that can be more or less powerful. You can get a linsys N router...those are powerful.
If you are on a budged Netgear routers are great. Buy a new router to your friend and ask him to replace his router with your new one.
If he doesnt want to be involved in this at all, buy yourself a Wireless Repeater from Linksys (about $60), and you can repeat his signal throught your house.
So I was wondering what people thought about the mineral oil submersion technique as a method of aqueous PC cooling as opposed to cooling with fans or liquid coolers of other types. I found this site to be quite interesting. And seeing as mineral oil is non conductive it's safe to submerge your PC in, the only issue being that if you need to work on your PC, well it'll be coated in mineral oil.
Mineral oil systems are nice, albeit rare. The problem I see with them is that mineral oil acts like an insulator, and does not dissipate heat very well at all.
If someone were to make a low power "net top" computer for browsing the internet and doing basic office tasks I could see where they would work well, while giving your workspace feng shui. They don't seem to be practical at all for gaming though.
Ok so i have built my now pc an now i am thinking of build a watercooling loop. I will be overclocking my i7 760. there are the parts(ps correct me plz if any of the parts are not compatibe) Im a complete nnoob at dis. I only want to cool the cpu:
XSPC BR525CL 5.25'' Single Bay Watercooling Reservoir - 20 pounds
Black Ice GT Stealth 240 Radiator - 33 "
Thermaltake P500 CL-W0132 pump - 23 "
Heatkiller CPU Waterblock - 30 "
OcUK Extreme Tubing PVC 13/10mm (3/8"ID - 3 pounds per 1 meter
I dont know which coolant i need to get so if any body can help me with that i would be very grateful(but it has to be Blue ) i also dont want to spend more then 120 pound(my utter most limit) Thanks everyone ! I hope to get a reply!!
I will be overclocking my i7 760.Click to expand...
That'd be i5 760/ i7 920+.
I dont know which coolant i need to get so if any body can help me with that i would be very grateful(but it has to be Blue )Click to expand...
It'd most likely be water, its appearance will be dependant on the color of your tubes.
I had a computer that stopped going past bios one day I tried to connect the HD to another computer to recover my files but it also wouldn t go past bios so I think it is the HD s fault I m not sure because I have of What enclosure? HD kind been informed that unless both computers were the same the HD wouldn t necessarily have What kind of HD enclosure? to work in the second one I found the kind of hard drive enclosure but you can still help with these quetsions Also if the hard drive is not booting connected to the pc will I be able to connect it to the computer with a USB after I put it in an enclosure and it will actually work And IF it works when I connect it to the USB port will a new windows start since it has windows installed or will I be able to just look for my files HD s Info Western Digital WD Caviar Blue WD BB Thanks nbsp
If the drive is physically okay, it should work in any machine you put it into and it should work fine from an external enclosure. The fact that the BIOS is hanging may mean the drive is not working properly.
If you do connect it via USB it won't start Windows from that drive, it'll still use the system drive in the PC unless you were specifically trying to boot from USB.
I would boot the machine and then connect the drive in the enclosure (via usb) and see if Windows is able to see the drive.
Hi all. I recently purchased Nvidia's GTX 470 to go with my new intel i7 920 processor, running with 6gb ddr3 on a 10k rpm velociraptor.
I have been playing starcraft 2, and noticed that right when I get into gameplay the GPU temp jumps to 90+ celsius. The fan also reaches nearly 100% to keep the GPU cooled, which is fairly loud and annoying.
For the experts out there, could you please recommend some cooling options for my GPU, and even my CPU?
Any advice on the setup I put together, I havn't built a computer in a few years so I am a bit outdated on things.
Your CPU and graphics card temp will be largely dictated by a couple of factors. Chassis layout/cooling and the power draw of the components.
The GTX 470 is not a cool running card with stock cooling. You either look at an aftermarket air cooler like the Gelid Icy Spirit for example, or look at watercooling...which I'm guessing isn't an option since you are probably out of the loop (pun intended) concerning PC componentry, bearing in mind that every review of the GTX465./470/480 cards lists heat and noise generation as principle negative factors in the cards' ownership. Add in power consumption and that pretty much covers the negative aspects of these cards.
As for CPU cooling, there are a number of options, that again include water cooling, all-in-one water cooling and air cooling. The latter will depend upon computer chassis width if you want to accomodate a tower cooler.
You will need to post back with a few more pertinent details before any specific recommendations are posted.
-Planning to overclock either/or/both CPU and graphics
I've been getting signals coming through randomly, but I think it's some kind of malware. Does anybody have clue?
If you could give a little more specific information it would be helpful.
hi how are you im am thinking of building a water cooling setup for my pc. I have a core i7 920, 12 GB of ram and a hd 5870. Right now i am only thinking of W.C the CPU and to overclock it. I have budget of 160 - 170 pounds.
here is what i found so far:
Many thanks nik11105
you don't need anything elaborate if you are just looking to cool the CPU; a single radiator setup would probably work just fine and be more compact. check out the inventory @ www.frozencpu.com for liquid stuff. they are a US-based company but they ship worldwide. they have one of the best selections of CPU cooling products on the market.
i would recommend a pre-configured kit with 3/8 I/D tubing and preferably an LGA-1366 cpu block (that doesn't require any modification or mount swapping).
I finally decided to ditch my old Core Duo Processor Ghz and upgrade to a quad core My issue is that Core (SL9UL) Cooling Intel Extreme 2 QX6700 for my machine is about or years old now My mobo is the Intel DP LT and the my current cooling for my processor is the Freezer Pro I purchased the Intel Core Extreme Processor QX Quad Core I know I will need to update BIOS for the new CPU but I believe that is worth it While waiting for the new CPUs arrival I ve been researching if my current cooling system will be enough The Freezer Pro is a small fan with a small heat sink mm I believe All the Cooling for (SL9UL) Intel Core 2 Extreme QX6700 aftermarket fans I ve been looking at are mm and up Will these Cooling for (SL9UL) Intel Core 2 Extreme QX6700 be too big to fit in the holes already there for the push-in style heat sink amp and fan slot already in my cpu I need to find a heat sink and fan that will fit in the slot where my Freezer Pro has been I really appreciate your help and suggestions approve p s My new CPU won t be coming with heat sink or fan since I bought nd hand CPU Also I don t plan on overclocking the Ghz out of a Quad core will already feel like a ferarri compared to my old Dual Current System Specs Operating System Windows XP Home SP Mother Board Intel Model DP LT Cooling for (SL9UL) Intel Core 2 Extreme QX6700 Chipset Intel P G Processor Intel Core Duo E Ghz this must go Memory GB DDR RAM Video Card NVidea GeForce GT w GB Memory nbsp
As long as the heatsink is made for a socket 775 CPU it will fit the mounting holes. IMO, if you are not planning to overclock, the Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro is enough. If you decide to get a larger heatsink/fan anyway, most that are designed for a socket 775 should fit. Just make sure the larger heatsink/fan won't interfere with other components like side case fans or extra tall heatsinked RAM.
If this PC is for gaming, consider replacing the 9500GT.
This is rather fascinating...as far as CPU coolers go. Liquid metal CPU cooler.
You can read about it over at The Guru of 3D
opps, maybe Matthew can move this to "links from around the web" not sure why I put it here.
I remember seeing the prototype a while back and thought it was awesome (looks better than the production kit IMO) and couldn't wait to try it out....unfortunately the end result cooling wise doesn't really live up to the hype (or expense) so far. Not that I'm likely to test drive one anytime soon as they seem to be a Europe only release at this stage.
ok hello everybody im back from college and my desktop is in my room feet from the hardline so i bought a router and a usb adapter to pick up the signal the signal speed is only at mbps MAX when good conditions align max if i was next to it is point computer my A about question cooling being its summer and temps this last week have been - and my adapter is overheating and making A question about cooling my computer my connection go mbps max with about k ms on a standard ping -t since this was fine up until this week im contributing this lack of function to heat so what can i do the bosy of the adapter is warm at most to the touch yet if i pull it out and touch the usb plug it almost burns my skin so im thinking i need to cool the core of my computer to prevent it from getting so hot i could move it to the basment some degrees cooler than my room but ya know room is nice so without spending money is there any other option i have would opening the case and putting a fan next to it liable to help drastically enough to make the cleaning worth it thanks sorry for the wall nbsp
the bosy of the adapter is warm at most to the touch, yet if i pull it out and touch the usb plug it almost burns my skin. so im thinking i need to cool the core of my computer to prevent it from getting so hotClick to expand...
I'll assume you meant body.
My kitchen is on fire, better spray down my bathroom.
This isn't a rare problem with USB dongles, my only suggestion is to use a PCI card, sorry.
Also, there aren't really specific USB dongle coolers, so you'll just have to improvise.
my wife has a Acer 7736Z laptop that the kids got water on/behind the screen leaving a water outline after drying. is there a way to take apart the screen and clean it? or is it now permanent damage?....thanks
You can clean it if you can get it apart... for a lot of folks, the first one is going to cause some damage as you learn...
But the biggest problem is convincing your spouse you should be allowed to do it.
You remove the keyboard, and other parts... remove the ribbon cable from between the bottom and the screen side,
Then it is a matter of removing the screw covers then the screws... Depending on the laptop model, there can be as few as 9 or as many as 33 screws holding the screen side together... and more to get to the back of the screen in some cases.
Easy enough to clean with a mixture of distilled water and denatured alcohol.
Even putting it back together is not that difficult, until the last part which is the replacement of screw covers. If you have never done it before, and if you do not have a new set of screw covers, the results can be a great deal more ugly than the watermarks in the back.
Shop/search for the replacement screw covers first... once you have those actually in hand, take on the rest. You will need high quality steel long, medium, and short #0 philips screw drivers. Some of the screws are held in with the blue screw sealing compound, so you may need some of that at the end.
First laptop will likely take four hours, if you are good with tools and your hands.
After that, you can do them in 20 to 30 minutes, start to finish.
Newer laptops may have new style connectors and screw covers... I haven't looked at an acer in nearly a year.
hi im looking into getting watercooling for my Antec 1200 case but im kinda new to it so im wondering what would be better to buy a kit or buy the parts seperatly and what kit/parts i should get my limit for this would be $300 any help would be great thanks
what are you looking to cool? just the cpu or cpu + vids + more bells n whissles?
So my daughter comes in with a Under literally - water water balloon trying to tie it off and somehow it spews all over the computer Water got in through the top vent and immediately shut down In my mind the MB is toast But lo and behold I get the thing apart clean up the water and vacuum it out as well and it powers on but won t boot I have a live CD of UBUNTU and it will boot All indications are that the mobo is okay I think the computer had just been turned on and was still booting when the water hit it so my fear is a true head to disk crash but the hard drives are not making any Under water - literally unusual noises or clicks My first step was to use the Windows CD By the way I m running XP Media Center I didn t setup the machine so I am not sure how the drives Under water - literally are configured There are two twin GB drives but appear as a single GB I booted from CD and went in to recovery mode - it gives me the terminal window with a c prompt but DIR gives an error like quot an error occurred during directory enumeration quot If I run CHKDSK I get quot The volume appears to have one or more unrecoverable errors quot May not be exact wording I can t seem to do anything through Windows but if use the UBUNTU live cd the volume mounts and I am able to see and access my most important files photos music vids etc So one of the first things I m going to do is get an external drive and backup everything I can which I ve been meaning to do anyway This particular machine in my network is too far to run any existing network cables and I can t seem to access the network wirelessly with UBUNTU Can anything be done to either repair or re-install Windows without re-formatting What other advice might you have Thanks nbsp
Try to avoid powering up any more until you have taken every measure to remove all moisture... if possible, remove the keboard, and let it rest on absorbed fiber like a diaper for three days or so.
Usually when the water is finally all gone, your chances of getting it working are good... unless it remained on too long while wet.
If you are not technically minded, you might have somebody who is partially disassemble it and blow it out with a canned air used for cleaning electronics... Dust off, or other accelerants... but do NOT use compressed air due to the risk of damage from static electricity.