Hello - I'll try to be succinct and cover everything I have tried nbsp I have a T i with Win installed along with all issue suggestions needed please! power - T410 the drivers nbsp It has been working fine T410 power issue - suggestions needed please! but I seem to be experiencing a power issue nbsp This first manifested itself as the screen going blank and refusing to come back on nbsp Thinking it was overheating my partner opened it up and cleaned out the fan my partner fixes Lenovos as a field engineer and applied thermal paste to the processor nbsp All seemed well I was working on it plugged in when suddenly it T410 power issue - suggestions needed please! shut down nbsp I tried to restart it but without success so I left it plugged in with the orange light flashing and went off to have supper nbsp When I came back the orange light was still flashing so I decided to leave it to charge overnight Next morning - orange light still flashing and although it would power up there were odd things going on when I looked in Power Manager nbsp It showed the battery as being good for hours although I knew that if I took the AC adapter out it would close down nbsp So I tried a different known good battery - same thing nbsp Then a different PSU - same thing nbsp On the desktop it shows as charging for half a dozen animations then goes static - Power Manager says it's charging but doesn't display the 'time left to fully charge' and isn't actually charging at all nbsp So - here are the things I've changed and tested at each step nbsp The battery nbsp The PSU trying both w and w - power manager recognises them for what they are but no charging actually happens Hard drive with a fresh install of Win Motherboard Processor Palmrest Memory including using just one in each slot Keyboard nbsp Because motherboards one with nvidia graphics and one Intel both exhibit the same behaviour I am now at a complete loss and the only thing left to change that I can think of is the screen so I might do that while I wait for a response nbsp If I appear to have overlooked anything obvious then please let me know - I'm usually pretty good at figuring things out by a process of troubleshooting but I'm beat this timehttps://forums.lenovo.com/t5/ThinkPad-T400-T500-and-newer-T/T410-power-issue-suggestions-needed-please/td-p/3358458
I recommend downloading and running Reimage. It's a computer repair tool that has been proven to identify and fix many Windows problems with a high level of success.
I've used it in the past to identify and fix everything from blue screens (BSOD's), ActiveX errors, corrupt files and processes, dll/exe/sys errors, recover lost memory, Windows update problems, defragging, malware removal etc.
You can download it direct from this link http://downloadreimage.com/directdownload.php. (This link will automatically start a download of Reimage that you can save to your computer.)
Power outage due to storm. Came back on without pictures and documents. It's an HP desktop. Would a file recovery program work? I've tried some of the instructions online, but they don't work.
Oh mary; I feel your pain. Were the pics within one folder and now they're ALL missing?
My laptop wont power on at all.
No charge light.
No light when power is pressed.
Was working fine yesterday.
Have tried battery and charger from identical working laptop to no avail.
Any ideas? I can usually fix laptops etc but if it wont power on at all I'm lost.
Did you try removing the battery and AC adapter and holding down the power button for 30 seconds. Then re-installing the battery and try booting again?
Hi everyone A few days ago I replaced my cpu motherboard and hdds on my system OLD System main components Case Antec v Cpu i Mobo Asus onboard realtek mobo low crackling) bk volume (very ud3h sound ac1150 issue - and Gigabyte p x d-e RAM corsair vengence gb x GPU Zotac GTX Boot drive Intel Gigabyte ud3h bk mobo - realtek ac1150 onboard sound issue (very low volume and crackling) gb ssd Win HDD WD TB black New System main components Case Antec v Cpu i k Mobo Gigabyte z x - ud h-bk RAM corsair vengence gb x GPU Zotac GTX Boot drive Samsumg evo gb ssd Win HDD WD Gigabyte ud3h bk mobo - realtek ac1150 onboard sound issue (very low volume and crackling) TB black I was able to clone the ssd and hdd samsung migration for ssd and Easeus todo backup for hdd Initally I had some driver conflict when I Gigabyte ud3h bk mobo - realtek ac1150 onboard sound issue (very low volume and crackling) booted up the computer on the new mobo I managed to uninstall all the old drivers and then used the driver cd to install the mobo drivers and even updated all of them to the latest version I The conflict I m still having is with the back panel audio for the onboard sound I get very low volume and and crackling at certain frequencies tried on both my generic creative speaker and Audio technical headphones When I m plugging in the speaker into the green port and have it plugged in half way or accidentally touch the jack to the I o plate I get really strong loud static noise Here is the list of solution that I tried with no success Updated the Realtek HD Audio Manager app I e the one installed from the driver cd to the latest one Used DPC latency checker and it is showing all greens didn t test it for more than a minute though should I be doing something while the app is on to test for interference Installed Generic Realtek driver for ac codec Disabled C E and EIST in the bios Played with the equalizers on Realtek HD Audio Manager helped to reduce bit of static but its still there and the volume is still very low Disabled all line in devices Checked audio with a ubuntu live cd and the problem still persists does this indicate a hardware issue What I find strange is that my front panel that is connected to the HD audio pins on the motherboard works fine with the same speaker and headphones I still have some more solutions I need to test out like Update the bios currently on F version the latest is F I have a spare asus xonar dg PCI so will try to install it and test if audio will works fine But this is not a permanent solution as I only have one PCI slot which I m using for my wireless card adapter Edimax g Run Memtest can this ever be a problem for sound related issues Driver Sweeper I believe I have properly manually uninstalled all the mobo drivers but going try this app to be sure Can someone please point me in the right direction on how to solve this This is the first time I m installing replacing a mobo and cpu so should check if there is a wiring issue when I replaced all the parts back into the case Please let me know if more information is need to help resolve this I have a few more days left incase I have to RMA the mobo so any pointers would really be helpful before I decide to send it back if at all TIA Sreejit S nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/gigabyte-ud3h-bk-mobo-realtek-ac1150-onboard-sound-issue-very-low-volume-and-crackling.217321/
Hello I am new to building the pcs so I am afraid I may have fried mine I really am pry I did not but this is what happened I finish tower Power will not work button My the pc and My tower Power button will not work when I turned on the power supply the power button on the motherboard glowed so then I pressed my tower button and nothing worked so then I re setup he F PANEL cords u know the pwr switch and all that jazz turns out it was set up wrong so I put them in right and tried to turn on the computer again the power button on the motherboard turns on but not my towers power button and so my pc will not officially turn on I am guessing and I am worried that I may have fryed my pc because when I took out the f panlle cords I realized my pc was still on and turned it off immanently and I am afraid that may have fryed the motherboard if anyone can help me it would be wonderful I am freaking out and have no Idea what the problem thank you for reading P S My tower button does not making a clicking sound when you push it I am not sure if that normal or it is broken or somthing it just doesnt make any click sounds nbsp
You could have a defective power switch on the PC case. Test this by using the reset switch as a temporary power switch. The power switch and the reset switch are the same for practical purposes except, of course, the size of the button (on most cases). If the reset switch works and is able to start the PC, then you know the power switch is defective.
I have an older eMachines Desktop PC model EL1360G which has a 200 watt power supply.
I would like to upgrade it to at least a 400 watt power supply.
Does anyone have a suggestion as to where or what I should buy? I watched a few videos on youtube on how to do the replacement but how do I know all the plugs on the new unit are the same and will fit? Because if they don't, I'll be more confused than I already am.
Check and make sure all the connectors are the same as the ones you have
I'm not certain if the image above is what you have but I'm thinking it is.
Image above looks to have:
1x 20pin+4pin (ATX Power)
1x 4pin (P4)
2x SATA power
Does your power supply have these and only these?
Hi Guys! I hope you have the time to see this post and give me some suggestions on Upgrading my PC.
Bought all of these parts last June 9, 2014.
This is my Rig
Windows 7 Ultimate 64 (Service Pack 1)
ECS Elite Group Deluxe H87 H3-M 1150
i5 - 4570 CPU @ 3.20 GHZ
HyperX Fury 8gb 1600mhz
PSU 600WATS Cougar
Nvidia GeForce GTX 770 Twin Frozr 256mb 2GB GDDR5
BenQ 22" LED 1920x1080
HDD 1TB for Storage
500GB split this into half Disk C: has 250 where I install my OS at and Local Disk D: where I put my games/saved games.
PC Case: Ostrog Enermax
I mainly created this Rig for gaming.
I'm planning to buy an SSD soon, any tips? Already read the most budget SSD is the Crucial m4 ssd 128gb
Also thinking of upgrading my Motherboard. Also, if ever I'm changing my MOBO, do you guys think I need to change my PSU as well?
Thoughts/Opinions/Suggestions will be highly appreciated. Thank you!
There is no gain using an SSD for storage. I would buy an SSD to transfer the system and applications to. Format the existing drive for a storage drive. That will give you the full benefit of the speed that an SSD will give you. Try some PC trans software. They do the job well.
I'm in the process of repairing my Altec Lansing ADA885 multimedia speaker system and was wondering if anyone out there might possibly be able help.
Inside the subwoofer cabinet there's a metal box/case which contains the power supply and amplifier circuit board for the subwoofer. On this circuit board there's a 2 watt resistor labelled R2 which is badly burned. Due to the extent of the heat damage, the value (I.e. colour code) is impossible to read. If anyone can advise me as to what the value of resistor R2 should be (so that I can replace it), I would really appreciate receiving a reply. Many thanks in advance...
Apparantly, Altec Lancing no longer have a schematic diagram or any other information for the ADA885 system which they originally manufactured ~2000.
Have you called mon ,wed,and fri,I been calling for 3 wks .no body answers.I have a BX1121 3 pins broke I was looking for what color wire goes to which pin oh now their mail box is closeed
Hi guys, new here...I'm setting up a new pc, sooo a few questions here.
I'm planning on getting an Asus A88XM-plus motheboard, Amd X4 860K cpu and Sapphire R9 280 3GB video card...so how much power supply would be enough...450-500W?..would 650 be an overkill? Is all of this fully compatible?
Do I need a sound card, modem or special cooling or something? ( I already have 2*8gb Ram sticks and HDD, don't really need DVD drive).
I'm also thinking in between Antec 902 V3 case and a lot cheaper LC Power Gaming 975b Air wing Midi...how much quality difference is there in between these two?
Also, how much improvement is there in between this card and my current one, sapphire r7 265 2gb?
Are there anything that you would exchange for something else...I'm on a tight budget, but I don't mind spending a few extra bucks if it be worth in the long run.
Thanks in advance.
Microsoft showed off a whole range of new PCs and devices running Windows 10 at Computex 2015, but one that really caught the eye is the Quanta Compute Plug, an entire PC integrated into a power plug the size of...
They may be handy to a lot and even have very reasonable prices but I can't imagine myself ever wanting any of these.
I bought an interesting little Single Board Computer as an mITX motherboard (a WADE-8020, more info at the link below):
I have another similar board in an old Hoojum Cubit 3 case, and was wondering if anyone might have any other suggestions for a similarly eye-catching case, probably ready-made, though I'm not averse to either buying a DIYed case, or maybe trying to make one myself (I have a Dremel but not much else, and that includes skill )
Hi, Guys (And Gals) I'm attempting my 1st PC build and HAVE used the various online power supply calculators... however I'd like to hear some feedback from you all. No matter where I look online I always like to come here to be sure. My specs for the build are as follows:
MoBo: GIGABYTE GA-F2A68HM-H FM2+ USB 3.0 MATX
Amd A6 5400K 3600Mhz Blk Edt 1mb 65w Socket FM2
Video Card: XFX RADEON R7 240 2GB DDR3 LOW PROFILE
RAM: ADATA XPG V1 DDR3 1600 4GB
HDD: Seagate 1TB Serial ATA HD 7200/64MB/SATA-6G
I would really like to use one of the 350W or 400W power supply I stripped from my previous PC's. I'm thinking of hooking it to an HDMI or VGA projector eventually though (Haven't bought it yet) Can I get away with one of these and play a game like World of Warcraft? or do I need to order something like the
SolidGear 650W PS2 ATX Power Supply on Tiger Direct?
Thanks in advance for any advice & thoughts
Over engineer the PS;
Calculate the actual needed power,
add a fudge factor and
multiply by 1.5.
Then round up to the next commonly available size
Oculus VR on Friday revealed the recommended hardware specifications needed to deliver the best experience when using its upcoming virtual reality headset.
I don't get it? It's supposed to be peripheral device. like an LCD screen, just with inbuilt mouse pointer. What does your PC specs got to do with performance, other than necessity to setup the resolution for inbuilt displays? What does it mean 'games and applications created for the Rift in-house'? Does it mean it will require custom games and applications, no support out of the box for existing games? If that's the case, their VR is gonna die faster than 3D. Please tell Me I'm mistaken?
Here's the situation. I have this old mITX computer I built a few years ago that I'd like to hook up to Dad's big-screen TV so he can Skype from his living-room. Problem is, the computer is VGA only and his TV is HDMI only. The MoBo has just one PCI (not PCIe) slot with a maximum output of 75watts.
I tried a PCI video card with HDMI output, but the slot couldn't drive the card. Didn't even detect it.
I believe DVI uses less power (the cards are definitely cheaper), and I could just use a simple DVI-to-HDMI cable. A native HDMI port would be better. As long as it works, I don't care. But w/o an external power input, the card can't draw more than 75watts from the PCI slot.
Anyone know of a card that fits this very specific bill? Thx.
ADDENDUM: PC only has a tiny 300watt PSU.
Check this one out: Zotac GeForce GT 610
It is a PCI Card (non express) that has DVI / VGA / HDMI. It is also a Low Profile and requires a 300w power supply or higher. It looks like it should work with your situation.
I recently moved my computer from one side of my desk to the other and somehow it managed to make it so when I press the power button nothing happens. I've disassembled and reassembled the computer numerous times and tested the psu. The psu is working and it seems like the motherboard is the culprit. What is confusing me the most is that when I short the 24 pin connector to the motherboard then plug it in if I also press the power button I can turn on the computer. I dont see that as a permanent fix just in case it sleeps and I assume it is not good for the computer so I am looking for help on how to permanently fix my issue. Thanks in advance.
I need some professional help.
R9270x BY XFX
NOW, without the graphics card the computer runs fine. When I install the ddriver's for the r9 it will work, but eventually the display driver stopped working makes its way back.
I've ran all diagnostics on the memory and checked temperstures which all turned out to be fine.
I sent the card into xfx and they returned it saying it's fine.
WTF DO I DO MATES. I think it's the card....but that's just me.
Hello I need to connect power/reset buttons to dell optiplex 620, but I just can't connect them anywhere on motherboard.
I need help as fast as possible
I've got FSP Aurum Pro 1200W.
What UPS should I buy for that power supply if we assume that it has 100% workload?
See watts to KVA calc: http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/watt-to-kva-calculator.htm
issue: what is the power factor?
hint: PF ~ 0.75
As the title implies I m currently having issues the first major issue is that my PC is turning on off and which the second is that my other hard drive suddenly up and Issue Invisible & HDD Computer Grounding disappeared on me My computer started to turn on and off on me for no reason while I was trouble shooting my initial problem of the HDD when I fiddled around inside my case Eventually ripping everything out of the case and quot card-boarding quot the motherboard which it worked and stayed on and as I gradually put everything back together it was all good until I sat the motherboard back onto the brass copper studs that sits inside the frame and screwed it in At that point my computer started to turn on and off again which lead me to believe it s some manner of a grounding issue Computer Grounding Issue & Invisible HDD I have no clue on what to do at this point about going about this should I just get a new case made of plastic My current full tower case is all steel While I was watching a movie which was stored on my second hard drive is started to freeze lag repeat all that good stuff on me It froze my computer up completely and I was force to hard reset the computer when I booted my PC back up I found that my second hard drive had up and vanished on me So I went into my bios and saw it quot working quot I switch to ACHI to see if it ll make a difference but I got a BSoD so I left it at IDE At that point my computer gave me the option to quot repair windoe files quot or start normally Both options made my computer get stuck on the loading screen thankfully safe mode boots up fine So what could had caused this and how may I go about fixing it nbsp
I also swapped out the PSU with a spare I had lying around, didn't get any power from it so I reused my old one. Now I don't have power from that one either. So besides the "missing" HDD and a suddenly a "no longer working PSU "I'm assuming the motherboard is bad, opinions?
HI, I was wondering if it is safe to use an atx psu on a motherboard with an eatx power connector. The motherboard has a 24-pin eatx and a 4-pin atx 12v connector. I bought the motherboard and started using an atx psu and everything seems to work ok then realized after it was an eatx power connector on the motherboard. Are there eatx psu's? Thanks
EATX is a form factor (12"x13") not a power connector. I'm assuming you are talking about using a PSU with a 20 pin (old ATX) connector with a newer motherboard that has a 24 pin (current ATX) connector. If that is the case you will need to consult your motherboard's manual. Some 24 pin boards run fine with only 20 pins some don't. The issue is that each pin in only rated to carry a certain amount of current (Amps). If you overload one of these pins your risk burning or melting the ATX connector on either the PSU, Motherboard, or both.
Ever since I setup a KVM switch to have 2 computers sharing 1 monitor/keyboard/mouse, I have had monitor problems.
There is a subtle but noticeable wobble/ wavey-ness thing happening across the screen when connected to one of my computers (my AMD).
Also, my display (with AMD computer) has a stretched horizontally look. I have tried different screen resolutions but they all give this stretched look which I didn't have before.
And my AMD used to give 1920 x 1080 as an option for max resolution, but this is now capped at 1600 x 1200.
Please help as this is very annoying & looks awful. The specs of the KVM switch say "Max. Resolution: 1920 x 1440. Bandwidth: 200MHZ"
My AMD computer:
Windows 7 64 bit SP1.
AMD Athlon II X4 620 2.6GHz.
Video card ATI Radeon HD 4350
What is the make and model of the KVM switch you purchased? I have tried lower quality switches at my work and found similar results. Ended up having to get one of the more expensive / better brand ones that solved the issues.
Intel i5 3rd gen 3450
Gtx 970 amp extreme edition
Samsung evo 120
PSU corsair vs 650
Liquid cooler h50 corsair
Currently they are on LGA 1155 mobo
I just killed my old motherboard
And now I am planning to buy i7 4790k
There are three motherboards I have in mind and all of them are asus z97 series based. Want to buy only asus..
I want to know that whether I should upgrade and get 1150 mobo and new processor or not!
(I have no plans to put dual gtx 970 bt plan to use secondary gfx card (gtx560) as phyx dedicated card)
If yes then
1. Which mobo I should go for and why?
2. Will the old h50 will be fittable on my new board or not!
Any new advise also appreciated!
I want to learn how to manage ARM processor power management with LINUX (for example the Cortex-A53 MP Core).
Can someone recommend literature, a tutorial or web based information?
Thank you in advance
My Dell has been acting up pretty recently (6 months old and still under warranty), and the battery does not charge past 80%. Once it get's near the 80% charge, it immediately fills up to 100%.
I've remembered using the laptop for more than 6 hours under moderate use but now it barely lasts 2 hours.
Please give me some advice because I'm really dependent on this laptop.
You have 6 or 8 cells battery. If 6 it's normall. Should work about 2-max 3 hours when new. On 8 cells could work till 5 h.
Producers give only 6 months of warranty on bateries
Hi, this is my first post on techspot, and I am kind of a newbie on building pc. I have never done it and been looking up everything I can. My needs are just basically normal computing but I want to be able to play new games (shadow of mordor). I dont do any video editing or anything. I have been reading that an i3 will be fine and I need a good gpu instead of overkill on a cpu. I also want a good mobo that has plenty of potential (something about more ports???). I just need to be steered in the right direction of what to get without blowing out the budget. I dont play too many games (and no fps and very few online). I just dont want to see a new game in 6 months that I want and dont have minimum sys requirements. Also I was very skeptical about getting an AMD cpu instead because they get so much hotter, but I know alot of people will recomend it. Sorry for being so longwinded.
Have you thought of going down the used parts path as you seem to be wanting a machine "cheap" with an i3 instead of looking at what kind of job you really want it to do, unless you will only be playing games in a really low resolution (fps). E.g. the Intel NUC and the ASUS Vivo have Core i3 CPU and they are nothing like a gaming PC.
Here is a couple of pros for a Core i5, and they are;
"Intel Turbo Boost":- Which lets the processor increase its clockspeed whenever the workload on the CPU increases and none of the Core i3 CPUs have Turbo Boost.
"Cache":- The i3 (Ivy Bridge) processors have 3MB (except 4 Clarkdale processors which have 4MB) of cache all the Core i5s (except 4 Ivy Bridge processors which have 3MB and 6 Clarkedale which have 4MB), have 6MB of cache. The cache is like RAM for the processor but it is built into the processor chip. So this gives it (the CPU) access to the memory storage a lot quicker. Without a CPU memory cache and RAM the CPU would need to access the HDD which would be even slower.
Searched eBay.com.au for "i5 cpu" in "Computer components and parts" and had a myriad of choices.
You really need to decide on the CPU first then mobo and then components (small SSD for the O/S, graphics card and RAM) and lastly a PSU to power all your choices (you could even bung a cheap PSU in just to get the rig going, so long as you realise that it WILL fail down the line!)
Hope this helps
Edit:- Changed CPU listings to be accurate for world-wide purchasing as some markets did not get some CPU incarnations released as a new product (based entirely on the Ivy Bridge and Clarkdale Core i3 / i5)
Reference Intel 2105/03/22 from http://ark.intel.com/.
I recently got this amazing p monitor for my custom rig and I love it Well most of it There is this problem with the backlight where when the monitor turns on after a while of inactivity the backlight turns on Monitor Backlight ASUS an with Issue VK-248h for a split second Issue with an ASUS VK-248h Monitor Backlight then suddenly goes very dim Issue with an ASUS VK-248h Monitor Backlight The brightness setting Issue with an ASUS VK-248h Monitor Backlight is unchanged kept at a solid yet it s a quarter as bright as it should be I can go into the menu and change the brightness and I can tell faintly that it does adjust but never up to the proper level To remedy the issue I repeatedly turn the monitor off and on until the display finally lights up properly and it stays that way for the entire time I am using it At the start of the session in which I write this post I had to do this at least times before it worked so I finally decided to really look into this problem It seems this is a unique issue as I found absolutely no matching posts on the interwebs by searching with the all-mighty Google Search Is there anyone that can provide some insight as to why this occurs and or how to fix it Thanks for your time nbsp
New theory: Bad capacitors... somewhere. Possibly power supply
After a day at work, observing some coworkers working on used LCD TVs (and working on one myself), I now understand quite a bit more about such things.
I had removed the display from my setup and left it on the floor for a few days. Today, I decided to try it again. The backlight started up perfectly fine, surprisingly. The ASUS screen showed for a couple seconds, then went off, as normal. Then, when it's supposed to activate the selected display input, it shows the screen for just long enough to get half a frame drawn, then goes completely black. Turning monitor off and on repeatedly, and trying different input methods, gave same result. I got it to work once, but at that time the backlight had gone too dim again.
I think now I might know how to fix it, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to take the dang thing apart! Lol.
I was given a year old Corsair power supply XMPSU- TX-C I wanted to make sure it Questionable Power Corsair Supply s working right before plugging it to a motherboard So I did the paper clip power on trick and all the voltages were ok I proceeded to connect just one harddrive The harddrive spins up and then Corsair Power Supply Questionable makes a revving noise every second as if its powering down and back up repeatedly Also theres a green LED light on the harddrive that blinks normally its a solid on This doesn t happen every time I cycle the power supply however When the harddrive powers up properly the LED light is constantly on and rpm is constant I tried two other harddrive with the same outcome The problem is definitely intermittent I connected all three harddrives with the same results I tried the same setup with two other power supplies with no issues at all I am now sure the issue is specific with the Corsair power supply Is it because there s not enough load on all rails making the power supply unstable The AC current draw was only mA so it wasn t the overcurrent protection kicking in The V line was steady Corsair Power Supply Questionable but the V line fluctuated a few hundredths of a volt in unison Corsair Power Supply Questionable with the harddrive revving The V line was steady when the harddrive powers up normally I m hesitant to connect a full computer to this Anyone have an idea before I try to RMA the power supply Is this just a peculiarity of this model nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/corsair-power-supply-questionable.209459/
I'm working on a XP machine. I think its slowness when installing apps (and also when its installation) is because of the HDD issue. Maybe there are bad sectors. I know that using C:\ drive properties -> tools, I can test the C: drive for bad sectors. But how to see the results!? It's wants me to restart the PC. Is there any log file after finishing of the test?
Is there any better way to find and solve the issue please?
The better way is to run a true diagnostic utility like SeaTools. Run a Long Generic test on the drive and see what happens (this will take a while).
I am looking to get a new graphics card for my computer because atm it has integrated graphics, which as most of you know sucks. The power supply is 250W which I doubt would be enough to have a whole new graphics card implemented. The model is p6166f. The mother board has this for a graphics card slot PCI express 16x GPU. Please give me suggestions, I am looking to spend approximately 150 - 200 $ total.
We need to know who made your system. How old is your system?
Hi All I have a strange one here I connect to the net via my Belkin router nothing special about the setup of the router My main pc however I have configured to use a static IP for downloading purposes I have used the same IPV settings for a number of years with no dramas Last night I switched on the PC and connected to the Internet but after a few minutes I got the no internet connection symbol yellow triangle I am connected via networking plugs also so tried the see if they were the issue but they are fine I ran the windows troubleshoot wizard and it came back with Your computer is trying to use a DNS server that is incorrect or doesn t exist I removed my static IP details and tried to connect by obtaining IP details automatically but this had no effect I used my phone s internet connection DNS Issue to google this DNS Issue and was advised to try which I then reinput my static ip details but this time putting the google dns settings and I can connect to the net The wierd thing is that my wifi will not connect to the net my DNS Issue question really is do I need to update the DNS setting in my router in order to get wifi working or should I be flushing DNS on pc the wifi is for my Ipad so not a lot DNS Issue I can do on that to connect Making my brain ache a bit sorry for the long post any help or advice would be appreciated Arvon nbsp
Yes, you can set the DNS addresses in the router manually and then every device connected to that router will inherit your settings when they are configured to you DHCP
So I've been thinking about upgrading my GPU from a GTX 760 2gb to a GTX 980 but I'm not sure if I have to buy a new Power Supply aswell. I'm using a 650W power supply.
My specs are: MSI motherboard(forgot the name), 8GB ram DDR3, SSD 200GB, HDD 1TB, DVD-RW, 2 120mm fans + the CPU fan , a core i5 4670k (3.40 ghz) and the gtx 760 itself.
Try this out; http://www.extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp
my laptop HP g61 does not power on either with battery or when connected to the mains supply(AC). whenever i press the power botton the battery lit in the front of the system will only blink for about 3 seconds without the system been power on(the fan,the keyboard light nor the power botton lit will not on) i try to remove the battery nd press the power button for 30 secs before putting it back,still their is no respond. but i discovered each time i remove the battery and plug it to the Mains,the indicator power light beside the plug of the system will lit for about 3 seconds before it went off again.i have checked it with another charging adapter all to no avail. pls ,help me out.
Perhaps you have one of those infernal HP laptop motherboard problems? How old is your HP g61, and have you kept the cooling channels free of lint and dust? How old is the hard drive?
Since it doesn't work from a battery or from wall power, you should have an experienced tech take a look.
First thing I would do is remove the hard drive, so you can rescue the data if need be.
Then I would remove the battery, and try again from the Mains. If nothing, then there is some real work ahead. Consider this a major failure in that case, and get expert help to take a look.
I doubt there is a quick fix.
Please keep us informed as to what you learn and what helped get your HP G61 back up and running.
Unfortunately has been few years with no PC rig since I started working and carry notebook wherever I go. But I do remember the good old days where It was great to tweak the rig and squezze every Mhz our of every component. Unfortunately its not that much fun with a notebook
I have most of my components selected :
MSI Z97 MPOWER Max AC
Cooler Master V8 GTS
Corsair HX 1050
G.SKILL Trident X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB)
SSDOCZ VERTEX 460A 480GB
Seagate Barracuda 2 TB
But Im wondering if this a good selection of motherboard / PSU / Memory
What do you guys think, considering I didnt overclock for quite few years now. I want easy but rock stable motherboard overclock..
Never been to keen on MSI mobos. Bad experience in the past I guess..
I m doing this on my Toshiba laptop at the moment and you ll see why later in this post Earlier today I acquired an ASUS Z C notebook and had noticed that the keyboard is acting rather strange Certain keys will also register other keys when pressed Here s which ones react this ASUS Issue Z54C/X54C Mapping Keyboard way letters are not case sensitive U will also register Zero will register registers registers R W registers S ASUS Z54C/X54C Keyboard Mapping Issue I I places a Date Stamp this might be the problem There may be others but I d like to move on to the behavior the way this behaves is if I press the key U then quot u quot or quot U quot will show up depending on ASUS Z54C/X54C Keyboard Mapping Issue if I press Shift or not The same thing happens if I press the key This is the same for all others if I press one or the other of these keys in question the other appears with it At first I thought this was a problem with the copy of Windows that was installed so I installed Windows Tech Preview I was going to do so anyway However this behavior did not go away Looking for help and I d be more than happy to resolve this problem I should note that not all keys behave this way but that the majority of them work fine It s just that this should not be happening to begin with I ve also pulled the keyboard out and inspected it I didn t see any dried fluids or any obstructions in the keys Should I perhaps consider replacing the keyboard Sadly I have no USB keyboards to see if the behavior is isolated to the laptops primary keyboard although using the On-Screen Keyboard doesn t elicit this behavior nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/asus-z54c-x54c-keyboard-mapping-issue.208302/
I have had an IPhone, found they are fragile, have bad battery life.
I do need to access personal email
Do not need to edit documents
I would prefer a micro sim
Either a long battery life or a easy way to switch them out
I do play a few games on my moble
...Budget? You realise any smartphone with removable battery will satisfy your requirements.
Have an unusual mark on screen at startup then green lines and pink but otherwise pc ok cannot upload jpeg image for some reason
HI all I am having problems detecting the Xonar Pheobus and have tried all and 5 Rampage Asus Phoebus Xonar issue Asus Extreme the pcie slots with no luck Red and the grey - even the shorter grey slot Have disabled the motherboard s HD onboard Asus Xonar Phoebus and Asus Rampage 5 Extreme issue sound too and still not detected in my devices The pcie cable is connected to the sound card and I have enough PSU to power all - Enermax W When the card is inserted to the grey slots - The red light Asus Xonar Phoebus and Asus Rampage 5 Extreme issue is seen through the control extension box Headphone Microphone Connector Asus Xonar Phoebus and Asus Rampage 5 Extreme issue box jack ports However the green light is NOT seen AND the Xonar Phoebus logo on the card itself is lit powered up However when I insert the card into the red pcie slots these lights are not on One this else I noticed is the card DOES go warm over some time so tells me it is not switched off I tried to install the driver and I get a message no card detected etc etc Is there anyone kind enough to advise me their BIOS settings etc who has managed to get the Xonar to work properly Did you have to adjust any BIOS settings from default to get the card to be recognised Printscreens would be cool if it is not too much of a bother Thank you in advance Kind regards Killershadow nbsp
The question(s) I have is ->
Am I missing anything when attempting to install the sound card? I have tried with no GPU drivers (including the Nvidia sound for the GTX 750 ti sc) / disabled onboard HD sound and still the sound card not detected.
Even in this motherboard, it should detect the sound card regardless of what sound source is set as default and then allow me to install it and set it as default (without messing about with the BIOS)?
Maybe my sound card has died when moving it from the last computer - Static death.....................
Hello All I am having a bit of a strange issue that I have with CPU Motherboard or Strange issue never run into before Yesterday after getting home from the store I booted up my PC and started to play a game although I noticed that I was getting framerate stuttering It seemed to keep dropping a lot throughout my play So I started taking a look at some of my sensor utilities Strange issue with CPU or Motherboard When I opened Asus Probe II I noticed that it was telling me that one of my chassis fans weren t running Okay no problem it must have gone bad I than took at look at the frequency and noticed that my AMD FX- was only running at GHz per core I also checked CPUZ and had the same results So I booted to the bios just to take a look and noticed that it show my Chassis fan WAS running fine and that my frequency was at GHz per core as it should So I though that it must be a fluke Booted back into windows and again same issues So I shutdown and took the side off my case which is also where the Chassis fan it said was running is located Turned the computer back on and noticed the fan was running fine I logged into windows and noticed that seconds after windows logs in that one chassis fan turns off and the CPU underclocks to GHz multiplier All of the other fans in my case still running perfectly GPU running fine HDD s running fine Could it be possible that Asus probe II itself is underclocking my CPU If so what would be causing the fan to shut off My first thought was power-supply but I have no issues when stressing my hardware even in this state I am an IT consultant but have not run into this issue before Any help would be greatly appreciated PC Specs- ASUS m a r Motherboard AMD FX- CPU CoolerMaster HYPER N CPU Cooler Kingston HyperX Blu GB x Galaxy Geforce GTX Ti OC w PowerSupply Cougar Evolution Full Tower Case Samsung gb SSD Let me know if you need any other information nbsp
CPU temperature too high?
So I have a Toshiba Portege r500 with no H/d & a second one for parts. When I went to take the H/D and pop it in I realized the H/D hook-up cables are different. The "parts laptop" has a "FMUSH1" cable connecting it to the sata drive. The newer Portege has a cable labeled " FMUPH2" (I'm assuming for an SSD?)
My Question is....Can easily swap them somehow or is there an adapter/converter possibly?
Thanks in advance for any possible help!
So with more research I'm thinking I have a ZIF Tape (Cable) that previously connected to a 1.8 SSD which I now need to convert to a 2.5 sata connection.
I ordered a 24-Pin ZIF to SATA Adapter Connector Card off eBay. It comes with its own "ribbon" (Tape/cable whatever) as shown in the pic. Will I need to replace the ZIF from my mobo with it? or is it simply in case "you" need it?
Also just wondering could I have swapped out the sata ribbon (Fmush1) with the ZIF ribbon (Fmuph2) where they connect to the MoBo instead? (It's extremely difficult to get to on this model and the "clips" seem very fragile so I avoided attempting it)
My pc was getting heated nd fan was a bit noisy.
so cleaned my fan in a shop .when I returned home hardly 10 min my pc worked then shut down
again I went der he saw fan was not moving he pushed it a bit nd it started moving it worked for me till this this evening but again when I shut it down fr a while it gave me the same issue I removed the keypad tried to move the fan with my fingers nd its working now .....
whats the main issue
The fan is old and needs to be replaced.
So I ve owned my P HM gaming laptop for around years now and for the most part I haven t had any issues However when I start my laptop it always defaults to booting off of the ethernet card even after switching my SSD to the position in the bios menu Normally this isn t that much of an issue as I can just cycle through the bios boot options using CTRL Laptop Boot issue ALT DEL The main issue that I am having now is that the last time I was using my laptop I used hibernate instead of the normal quot sleep quot or quot standby quot Now whenever I attempt to start my laptop up the message quot Resume from hibernate quot is on my screen which is normal except it tries to resume using the ethernet card If the laptop is in hibernate evidently I am not able to access the BIOS menu or cycle through my boot drives I have read that a way to fix this Laptop Boot issue might just be taking the battery out and letting any residual power that the motherboard might be running off of fade away over time I read that this normally only takes minutes or so I tried waiting minutes and it Laptop Boot issue didn t work so I just tried again but waited a few hours this time before putting the battery back in and attempting to start my laptop up The laptop is still attempting to boot from hibernate Does anyone know of any way to get to the BIOS menu from the hibernate screen Or does anyone know of anyway to fully shut off my laptop Laptop Boot issue to get rid of hibernate and just start up normally Any assistance would be greatly appreciated nbsp
it always defaults to booting off of the ethernet cardClick to expand...
This means that BIOS is not seeing any HD, marked Active and contains a bootable partition
I know we had a thread on this in April of last year but what I really want is a poll so I can quickly see the numbers. What I'm trying to see is how many people are running 3 core machines and how many people have 6 core procs. Keep in mind I want to know actually cores, not the number of simultaneous threads you can run. Also, if you're using a multiprocessor machine please add up your cores. Also, if you have a triple core machine but it's not your primary I would appreciate it if you would post so in the thread.
Work related question or just curiosity?
I run 2 cores now in almost everything I physically use. I have a single core system that runs and does stuff for me nearly 24/7, but I almost never sit in front of it.
I m a tech with years of IT experience PSU. power bad Still or motherboard a won't up Not and I ve built my fair share of computers over the years I have a puzzling one I cannot get to Not a bad motherboard or PSU. Still won't power up the bottom of I m afraid I cannot for the life of me Not a bad motherboard or PSU. Still won't power up get this computer to power on Here is a list of things I ve tried and or eliminated The first thing to happen was quite strange The computer would start when I first got it it was a used system but only after a few presses of the power button I don t ever remember it powering up on the first press of the power button It s an Intel DX BT Extreme Series motherboard with a bit Intel CPU in it GB of RAM FYI the motherboard has a aux power on off switch ON the motherboard itself used for testing at the labs - the manual recommends using the front panel switch however obviously Current state the computer will not turn on at all There are two LED s by the CPU that are for indicating a voltage regulator overheating and the CPU overheating When I hit the power switch the VR Regulator LED blinks quickly once and that is all Ok here goes - Tested PSU came back fine Decided to use that PSU in another system to double check would not boot up in the nd system I replaced the PSU with a good one I know that works of even higher wattage Still doesn t boot up - Tried using onboard power switch same result Tried using the reset switch as a power switch same result so the switches are likely OK I even removed all front panel switch connectors and tried to jumper the two power pins using a flathead screwdriver Still doesn t boot up no power only a solid green light on the mobo when power is plugged in - Reseated all RAM sticks although a system should still POST if a stick is bad as well as CPU same result - Replaced RAM with RAM I know works Same clock speed compatible with this motherboard Again if it s RAM it shouldn t prevent the fans from spinning - Replaced CPU with a good one same socket factor Still no powering up - Removed all other hardware USB cables video card speaker connector drives etc same result - Also replaced the fan with a non-OEM intel fan that has a higher RPM and draws more air - Tried replacing thermal paste on the premise that since the VR reg is showing it s overheating hopefully this would do something - Replaced CMOS battery Same result After testing just about everything I came to the conclusion that it must be a bad motherboard What Yeah a faulty Intel motherboard I ve never heard of such a thing So I RMA ed the board and got the new on in the mail How puzzled was I when the same exact thing happened Words can t describe Solid green light when power cord is plugged in VR light flashes BTW the green light is a V Standby Power Indicator Now in the manaul it states that these lights CPU amp VR LED s will flash when they re indicating a fault not blink once So I tried all the steps again nothing I have replaced every piece of hardware I can think of with good hardware and am still getting the same result - a flashing VR regulator LED Intel has no support for this and the people I ve spoken with at tech support at Intel are stumped My only thought left is a grounding issue which would seem strange to me since the problem gradually got worse that is taking more presses of the power button to power on then eventually no response I am going to switch cases and see if that s the problem If that fails I am out of troubleshooting steps - I ve literally replaced EVERYTHING inside and outside the computer Again to reiterate these are the things that have remained constant in both motherboards original and RMA ed Solid green V Standby Power Indicator Flash of the VR LED when applying power I have replaced every component with the exception of the case and the standouts which I believe have grounding rings on the threads Any ideas nbsp
Speaking of shorts, try pulling the motherboard out of the case. Place it on a non-static, non-conducting surface and leaving in the CPU, heatsink/fan, only hook up the PSU, RAM and graphics card, see if will post.
I need help Okay so I hooked up all my parts last night with issue 560ti Crosshair and Video V Asus GPU to my ASUS Crosshair Formula V mobo and Video issue with Asus Crosshair V and 560ti GPU when I boot it will not show any video whatsoever No beeps no video no nothing I have a ti in there right now because I wanted to test it before my new came in that I ordered yesterday Video issue with Asus Crosshair V and 560ti GPU just wanted to see if the mobo was functional and all my other components were working Does anyone know why I would be getting no video I was thinking maybe I need to reset Video issue with Asus Crosshair V and 560ti GPU the CMOS Some people told me to check the BIOS but how do I do that if I have zero video on my screen Any help would be great as I am at wit s end with this stupid computer it has not run right since I moved and it is extremely frustrating putting all this time and money into this thing with no results I used to have a Corsair Liquid CPU cooler but the pump died and I finally got fed up with Liquid Coolers and went with a Noctua heat sink instead Going to do some more testing after work but was hoping to get some tips from you guys I have other ti s I can test to see if that card is just dead but it was like midnight and just decided to give up for the night last night Also My motherboard doesn t have an on-board video port I don t believe I see none at least My PC was up and running with drivers loaded for this exact card before it went down the computer has just been sitting there for months I am using the same hard drive only thing that has changed is the Noctua cpu cooler being in place of the now dead Corsair H All the fans are running the video card fan is running the psu fan is running so it seems like everything is getting power Any help would be greatly appreciated If you need more info please let me know nbsp
Let's do this one step at a time, first no part of any computer lasts for ever. U said u had 2 other video cards, first, see if either one of them will work. If that does not work, it could be the slot in the mother board, try an other X16 slot. but honestly to me it sounds like the mother board is not working if u have a speaker plugged into it and assuming the speaker is working because normally there would be beeps if the motherboard is not sending a video signal.
Hey guys I was looking at case suggestions mini-ITX redoing a build as a mini-itx so it would be more in the question to carry it somewhere if need be This is my alternative to getting a laptop as a primary mini-ITX case suggestions computer and ill be gettiing some sort of cheap portable tablet laptop for college work So I was looking for mini-ITX cases that would be best for my situation Alot of them are cube-like and im not a fan I would prefer something that I could put my xbox on top or vica versa Not that id definately be doing that but thats generally what form factor I want I also need to be able to fit like at most a GTX in it I know thats asking alot but alot of the cube cases can do mini-ITX case suggestions it all mini-itx cases ive really seen are too slim or to cube like and that makes it feel clunky to move anywhere Id really like to have the most efficient PC case possible Ive got a corsair c build right now and it just doesnt work at college as well as id want Oh yea my budget is at max Looking further im starting to think I won t be able to get a build small enough for what im looking for and I guess thats understandable I guess I should say my PSU budget is so it either needs to support a normal PSU or have a smaller one in that price range and wattage amperage that can run a non overclocked i and a GTX nbsp
I am doing a second mini-itx and the case does not seem to be working. the first case is no longer available - I posted pics here - it was all acrylic/clear - over the long term, it turns out that the acrylic broke at the power-on button and where the power supply meets the back of the case.
You might want to look at some that are for video - they have a low, flat profile like a DVD player.
You can get one that will accommodate a pico-psu power supply. This is a laptop-style power supply, with a barrel connector to connect to the computer.
This connection needs to be figured out before ordering parts. The right pico-psu will connect right into the ATX power supply plug, just like the plug coming out of a regular ATX power supply. But the barrel connection needs to be supported by the case.
Hello everyone - I have just assembled a new build It will not power up I need a suggestion to figure out if the problem is the case or the motherboard This is a mini-itx build power-up: power New or Build MB? no supply case's The case is New Build no power-up: case's power supply or MB? Linkworld LC - B This case comes with a volt watt external laptop-style power supply that plugs into the rear of the case just like New Build no power-up: case's power supply or MB? a laptop power supply plugs into a laptop - a barrel connector Inside this power connection connects to a power supply component that is not like a regular ATX power supply but is on a printed-circuit board New Build no power-up: case's power supply or MB? mounted on the case This has several capacitors and other stuff From that comes the -pin and -pin power supply lines for the motherboard I assume the -volt power supply for this external power supply unit is right since it came with the case It was watt The processor is an IBM t with TDP of watts Lower-powered CPUs can be put in a small so I assumed the power supply might be under-powered I ordered a -watt volt power supply with the right size barrel - and same polarity pos inside The MB is an ASRock H MV-ITX It is mini-itx form factor Still same problem Everything is connected correctly When I press the power-on button an external CD drive I have plugged-in spins up for a while But no power light comes on in the front of the case there are no POST beeps the fan for the CPU does not spin up No other signs of life So power is getting into the MB - the external CD drive is plugged into a USB socket in the rear panel of the MB After trying a watt and watt power supply I believe the problem cannot be the power supply cord Can it be that I have too little load I don t think so I plugged in another mm fan and an ol-fashion floppy drive just the power connection to add more load - same thing no power-up no POST nothing but the CD drive will spin up when I open-then-close it yet again So here is the help I need what else can I try -assuming the MB and case are fine is it more likely the case power supply is bad or the MB --Thanks nbsp
Well, I figured out the problem.
I am planning to re-do the older mini-itx system I have; it has gotten riddled with Trojan software for kids downloading games; it basically has been de-commissioned already.
So, I took the pico-psu power supply from that older computer, and hooked it up to the one I am making. Everything went perfectly.
So, I un-did that, removed the MB from case, disconnected the barrel-power connection from the case, unscrewed and removed the power supply that had been mounted in the case, put the pico-psu power supply back in place (I had to drill the hole for the barrel-connection out to be a little bigger since the pico-psu internal/external connection is threaded and held in place by nut with lock washer), and routed wires to be clear of cpu fan, screwed MB to stand-offs, and closed it all up.
now, everything is great. I like this linkworld case, but the power supply is worthless. I may try to get a few dollars back from the ebay vendor, to make me happy with a case that is less than what I should have gotten, but is working for me; I don't want to wait on returns, etc.
Hey, so I have an OCZ ZT 750 and its one of the units which runs 100% fan noise when ever im doing anything that requires the GPU, ive seen you can run the fan into a molex with a resistor to keep it constant, but what I want to do is, run it to my fan controller, just so I can ramp the fan up if needed, rather than nailing down the performance.
What I found is the fan is a 2 Pin connector, but fan controllers run 3 pins, am I able to run the 2 pin into the 3 pin on the fan controller and have control over it, or does the 3rd pin need to be connected for it to work?
My new build wont power on all I hear is a few high pitch sounds coming from what I think is the psu.
SSD 128GB SAMSUNG 850 Pro
1TB HDD (from previous build it was working fine 2 days ago)
2TB HDD(from previous build it was working fine 2 days ago)
GPU = GTX 680 2GB (from previous build it was working fine 2 days ago) MSI GTX 970 GAMING 4G GeForce GTX 970 4GB 256-Bit on it's way in the mail.
Case is pretty old and doesnt have a lid but it was working fine with my pervious buid)
PSU = CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750W ATX12V v2.31/ EPS12V v2.92 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC High Performance Power Supply (from previous build it was working fine 2 days ago)
Heatsink = Scythe Ashura Universal Processor Cooler
CPU = Intel Core i7-4790K Haswell Refresh Quad-Core 4.0GHz
Motherboard = MSI Z97-Gaming 7 Intel Z97 Motherboard
Memory = CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory
Please help me
Disconnect everything except the monitor, cpu, ram. In fact, go down to 1 stick of ram. Will it POST now?
24x7 - Low Power Consumption ? Internet Download Machine
I want to build a System that has LOW POWER Consumption.
Mostly Downloading Stuffs , Might Host Own Cloud too , Email Clients , IRC Clients , Other Internet Connected Apps
I was thinking of a Kabini System
Athlon 5350 (25 W TDP) & Some AM1 Mother Board
Again I was thinking about the Intel G3258 Anniversary edition processor (But it has Much Larger TDP)
It should be A Windows 7 Machine . Not Linux or other what nots !
But I am Here for some Advice. I already told you my requirements.
Advise me - What should I do ?
I only want to buy
Processor + Motherboard + RAM
SMPS (PSU) + HDD
I have the rest
Hmm; Why is power consumption a hi priority issue - - are you running off a solar powered system or portable generator?
I had a drive go south on me, looks like the MBR, MFT, and the backups for them got trashed on the drive after a reboot. The drive itself still is fully operational, and my usual go to software, ZAR, unfortunately is not doing the trick. Does anyone have any other suggestions on what to try?
I've used a program called testdisk to repair a messed up MFT, it's free.
A good example of why not to buy cheap power supplies.
This power supply was about 6 months old, Used for 2 or 3 days per week, And drew around 450 watts under full load.
Thankfully the rest of my pc components were spared. It was used in my second older pc, I use a corsair TX850 v2 in my main machine.
I do not want to go over how much it costs now. Another thing I need to mention is that this is a black/blue themed pc.
What exactly is the Intel Devil's Canyon Bundle? From what I can tell it is not specific parts and can be any number of components. Everything else looks good though, just not sure about the bundle.
I just finished assembling my first build. At first it turned on without a hitch, was able to install windows and a few drivers.
I had to restart a few times, which went fine for the first few times, and then it just didn't boot back up. The power button doesn't do anything, the fans don't start, nothing happens.
When I jump the psu, all the fans start, so I'm thinking the issue must be with the mobo..
Here's a list of all the parts I'm using : http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/JFVvD3
First, are any wires touching that might be causing a short such as a wire touching the back of the mobo? Second, I had something similar happen to me a few years ago with a new build. There is a tried and true though often tedious way that can help diagnose possible issues.
1. Remove all hardware except for one RAM stick from the motherboard and this includes Sata and fan connections to peripherals such as your SSD, etc,
2. Now see if the system boots with only the one RAM stick. If it boots then shut down add the second stick of RAM and then reboot. If it boots then repeat by adding a piece at a time.
3. If is doesn't boot then it is either your mobo or your power supply. Also, check to see if your heat sink is seated correctly.
BTW, nice little system there.
I'm new to the world of graphics, I have the following motherboard and specs on my pc:
DELL VOSTRO 260 INSPIRON 620 DESKTOP MOTHERBOARD GDG8Y CN-0GDG8Y
Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-2100 CPU @ 3.10GHz
Intel(R) HD Graphics 64MB 1.3GB
3.0 GB RAM
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium Edition Service Pack 1 (build 7601), 64-bit
HARD DRIVE: 450.9GB with 350.2GB free.
I'm trying to play Aion Free to Play (server based game) I've run the 'can you run it?' test on my PC and everything is fine expect my graphics as they are on board graphics. it recommends an NVidia GeForce 780 GT or AMD Radeon X1800 XL or better. I haven't been able to find either of these as they seem to be fairly old.
based on the specs and details provided can anyone tell me what is the best card I cant get that my machine will run and that will play the game.
Any new $80 card or better will do just fine. Just make sure your power supply is strong enough to support the card you get.
Sorry I must not have sent the last post correctly I am new to this site So I will try again I was getting ready to upgrade to bigger hard drive or drives Before doing that I needed to take the old hard drives out to obtain some information off the labels I did so and while they where out I cleaned the Mounting slots a little better than using just No drives to SATA Power hard air Having done that I re-installed them both When I turned on the power button the button lit up and the fans were running But No Power to SATA hard drives it No Power to SATA hard drives does not seem that the hard drives are getting any power as I can t hear or feel any thing Plus the computer is not booting No Power to SATA hard drives I don t recall unplugging anything other than the two hard drives But I also notice that I have a short cable bundle with two white plugs with three pins and one empty pin hole on the other end a black connection with with five connector slots with one middle on blank That makes me think that I unplugged the power to the hard drive someplace along the ling As I have a wire bundle that has two SATA power connectors that are plugged in But their are three white female plugs marked P P and P which are not connected to anything in that wire bundle I don t know at this point if the power comes through that bundle from the power source Of if I do not have the power plugged into the lope I hope that somebody can help me figure this out and let me know if I burnt out the hard drives and have to start over with my recover disk reloading windows and going from there nbsp
How would I close this post out. Dumb me had the monitor plugged into an unused VGA port. It only took me two and a half days to figure that out. I wanted to let others know to check and see if they have everything plugged in where it should be. Including the VGA or other monitor cables.
My brothers schoolwork laptop is frozen the problem occured like 2 days ago were the laptop seemed to be freezing for a couple of minutes and now when he trys to switch it on
Bios is not booting up.
and the only options he gets is launch in repair safe mode and start windows normally. which end up both the same in a black screen and a little black cursor with nothing to do but move the cursor.
after this happened my first reaction was for a complete format so I tried to install him a new copy of windows but my bootable device isnt even being recognized by the system it always ends up in the same screen for the windows startup.
edit ok so I dug a little more.psh..never had a laptop and found out the bios is on the asus logo screen.....well anyhow I booted up the system from the pendrive and the result is always the same the black screen with cursor only
The laptops hard drive has failed...
Hi guys, I'm not good in english but I hope u will understand all.
Few weeks ago, my computer monitor suddenly get 1024x768 (or something like that) resolution, and I can't set better, because this is my max resolution. Before this situation I had 1920x1080 resolution. I know I can now only set resolution of my video card. I searched for reasons, and this must be corrupted EDID, but I can't find someone with this damn monitor. I also tryed install many different versions of video driver and use few different cables, but problem is still alive.
If u have this monitor, I wan't to get copy of your EDID, or if you have other idea, I can do whatever u write
Monitor: LG M2280DF-PZ
GPU - NVidia 450 GTS
I've recently built a new computer for myself and has been running perfect for a few months. A couple days ago whilst gaming/browsing my monitor went into power safe mode and shortly after my computer shut off, I tried to start up again only to have the same problem occur , the only old parts were a graphics card and psu, I just got in a new gpu and installed it successfully. Same problem occurs. All fans are running properly including the heatsink , processor core temps are around 39 , everything seems to be running ok? Thoughts?
Check event viewer to see why it shut down.
I wanted to reset my admin password on my asus ultrabook,
so I took advice from some wanker who told me to remove round battery for 5 min, unplug it from motherboard, plug ac power in without replacing battery yet....... So... THIS WANKER DID!...
Now turning my computer on ive got nothing .... Except a 'battery charging flicker', when releasing power button after holding it a long,long time!!!!! PLEASE HELP ME IM STUMPED, OR SIMPLY THE OWNER OF A PAPER WEIGHT? .... ( I did see a green light briefly when I plugged it in, without the round battery. )
Sounds like this procedure corrupted the motherboards bios, and you may have a "paperweight" now for good. Did you re-install the "round" Bios button battery?
I have a 9 yr old Desktop PC and my power supply is going out. The one I have is a modular style power supply. Is it required that I replace it with another modular power supply or does it matter?
No, it doesn't matter which one you use. Use whatever type you wish.
Dvd burner will duplicate cd's fine, but the movies always say failure after endless times of trying...someone plz help
They are so cheap now it is probably worth everyone's time to just get a new one.
If you really want to troubleshoot it, put it in a different computer or OS.
I had a completely new experience.
I installed a new R9 280 today.
I have a CORSAIR HX Series HX750 750W 80 PLUS GOLD PSU. ([email protected])
I was running an ATI 6870.
Previously I never heard the PSU. While checking out a game a fan ramped up and I thought it the
R9 280. I thought man that's loud. Through some experimentation I found the R9 280 fan noise was not the problem but the HX 750. I cannot tolerate too much noise from my computer so this PSU has to go.
I know the R9 280 draws more power then the 6870 so the PSU is doing it's job.
My question is: How many watt PSU would I need so it won't ramp up....or are there other considerations I need to focus on as well...besides the +12 rating and wattage.
Thanks for any help
Just get the Rosewill Gold 450w, I think it's on sale.
You won't really find any good passive power supplies.
I bought a gaming PC, and I am wondering if my graphics cards and the computer itself are pulling to many watts, Will the lighting inside the box put a demand on the power supply??? I am debating about taking them out, I don't even have the lights on anyways I find them a waste they came with the computer I bought
I bought a gaming PC, and I am wondering if my graphics cards and the computer itself are pulling to many watts, Will the lighting inside the box put a demand on the power supply??? I am debating about taking them out, I don't even have the lights on anyways I find them a waste they came with the computer I boughtClick to expand...
Josh*^ - the lights could not possibly be pulling more that 10 watts, at an extreme. Probably they are actually pulling a level that you could not notice before-and-after if you used an actual measurement, such as with the Kill-A-Watt.
Same for fans, and most anything else you plug in or on except video cards.
Everyone: you will spend all kinds of money to have powerful components, and a suitable power supply - so go ahead and get an ACTUAL power draw measurement -
The kill-a-watt is simple to use and read, very simple. it costs $20 or $25.
You can use it on anything you plug into a 120 volt outlet. Vacuum cleaner, hair curler, radio, anything. It tells you exactly how much power is being used. Exactly.
For over a decade, these power calculators have been estimating power needs, and they have been over-estimating by 100% the entire time.
Greetings I ve moved to another country where electricity is not stable and goes high low or even disconnect power failure many times a day So i brought an old UPS i have discovery and connected it to the outlet and connected the PC and the LCD screen to it Sometimes when the electricity goes high down the UPS seems can t regulate fast enough or when the electricity disconnect the UPS can t change to battery mode fast enough so the PC restarts I though the problem is from the UPS so i bought failure during My despite restarts UPS PC power a new one iXA PRO which also has a built in AVR with wide input range of - Vac wide range of input frequency output short circuit protection overload protection and the transfer time My PC restarts during power failure despite UPS is ms I connected the PC and the LCD screen My PC restarts during power failure despite UPS to the new UPS and connected my modem and an external hard to the old one Surprisingly when the electricity went high low or when it disconnected the modem did not reset but my PC restarted which means that the old UPS is still working and the problem is from the PC itself I use My PC restarts during power failure despite UPS a very god power supply Blue Storm - wat so any idea what the problem could be Note When the electricity goes high low or disconnect the PC doesn t actually restart it just half turned off i mean i can still hear the fans rolling but there is nothing on the screen and i have to turn it off then on Note Sometimes when electricity goes high low or disconnect the PC keeps working normally Thanx in advance nbsp
My guess is your power supply in your PC uses active PFC (Power Factor Control) while your uninterruptible power supply is likely rated for a passive PFC.
My sister's 13" MBP (2011) died a few hours ago. According to what she told me, she was using it, and then, poof, black screen and no power. She doesn't have the cash at the moment to have it properly checked by a tech, so I did a basic troubleshoot in an attempt to narrow things down.
While the internals are a bit dirty, I didn't see any obvious signs of physical damage (it was relevant to check for this). Furthermore, the machine doesn't seem to respond to any power sources. I tried a couple different power cables and, while the little amber light on the magsafe (sp?) tab will come on briefly, the computer with neither power on nor display a charge on the built-in charge indicator. I will also note that the machine failed while disconnected from an outlet source with a full battery indicated.
My initial conclusions are a) the computer fried itself or b) the battery is toast. Any suggestions?
If no one here can offer any insight, I would post this to the Apple discussion forum. There are usually people there that can diagnose this from just a description so that is your best bet.
My mother in law gave me her old computer because it would start for a few seconds then stop and continue to repeat the process until she unplugged it. I only wanted it for the extra hard drive. After installing the hard drive into my computer (wanting to format it then clone it since it is larger than the one I currently have) it caused my computer to start and stop even being set as a secondary or slave. If I completely unhook it from my computer and start it up again, My normal set up works fine. Any ideas about what could cause this?
There is only one answer, the drive has gone bad. Chances are the rest of the machine may still be good.
Will the old machine attempt to boot without a drive? Does it come up to a boot drive not found error? If it does, the HDD was the whole trouble.
I turn-on the power on my laptop and all I see is a cycle of Red, Green, Blue, White, & Black of color on my screen. Computer was working the night before. I do not know much about troubleshooting a computer. Can anyone please give me an advice or guide if this is something I would be able to tinker to work or bring the laptop over for service.
I have a Dell XPS1730 (5 years old) with Nvidia IUPGA5D G84. Recently, upgraded to Windows 7
I appreciate your assistance.
The internal video has died. To verify this you can attach an external monitor and see if the display is normal
So I've got a mostly custom built pc, its motherboard has everything built in(Graphics.etc) but im looking to upgrade to this for graphics:
I have two questions:
1. I have a 500w psu currently, will I have to upgrade, and by how much.
2.how will I take of the built in graphics on the motherboard.
And also, are there any reccomendations for a better psu
Technology:GDDR5 SDRAM, Size:3 GB, Bus Width:384-bit, Effective Clock Speed:6.4 GHz, Width:4.2 cm, Depth:31.1 cm, Package Type:Retail, Height:15 cm, Cables Included:1 x DVI-VGA adapter, Peripheral / Interface Devices:Two 8-pin power connectors, Required Power Supply:750 WClick to expand...
your link clearly states that a 750w PSU is required.
you can use any of these online power supply calculators:
newegg(store) calculator(power supply requirement)
When I power on my Toshiba equium a200-151, the screen lights up but no display at all - even though there is loading activity. I rigged up to my PC monitor and everything is fine - see bios and windows loading etc. Borrowed a spare compatible working screen but same problem. I'm not 100% sure if its the inverter or the ribbon connector - any ideas before I buy a new inverter? Thanks for looking.
I would say that the video cable (ribbon cable) is bad based on what you have tried so far. This cable goes from the motherboard to the LCD display. Did you use the old inverter off the suspect Toshiba when you tried the compatible spare LCD panel?
First of all hello from a new user, I have a problem with my computer but I need help to nail it down to one part (I think it's the graphics card, but who am I to tell).
A friend of mine said people over here are very nice and competent so why not try to get help here.
Long story short, I played a game, Velvet Assassin, that is rather buggy (I.e. it didn't let me change the resolution to my native 1680x1050).
After some time the screen started flickering in complete white with some color bars here and there. I thought it was another bug on newer systems and changed the resolution; the problem seemed resolved.
Until my little brother started to play Forge of Empires, that little browser game, where the problem again occured at an even faster rate.
I hope you can help me, I made a short video of the issue, I know it's not of best quality, but maybe it helps.
Thank you in advance
Have you tried updating your drivers? Also could you please post the make and model of your laptop /desktop and the system specs.
I just got a new system that is rather light on the USB ports, so I figured I'd take advantage of the built in bluetooth. That being said are there any bluetooth mice that the users of Techspot either own and like, or find appealing? I tend to like my mice full sized and being contoured for the right hand is a bonus.
Hi all. I just bought a graphics card that needs 350 watts and +12v with 20 amps to run. My power supply has to following output:
+5V 22A MAx -12V 1A max
+5V (FP) 2A Max +3.3V 17A max
+12VA 18A max +12VB 18A max
combined power on +12VA and +12VB rails must not exceed 360 watts
Total combined power must not exceed 375 watts
Can it run the card?
Hi, could you please post a little more detail.
Instead of saying graphics card, it would help if you said the actual graphics card.
Instead of power supply, you could say what power supply you have.
My dad was putting some paper into his printer and had apparently put the paper in too far. When he tried to print something it jammed up and the printer had abruptly shut off. I have tried leaving it unplugged for a while and plugging it back in however, the printer WILL NOT turn back on at all.
Hi there. Since I bought my new mouse and illuminated keyboard, when I use the PC a lot, they have spontaneously been stoping for a period of time and then they work fine. I didn't have this problem before because I had a ps2 keyboard. Now I have USB mouse and keyboard and this happens. I do believe there is a problem with the power management. A friend of mine has the same motherboard and he incurs the same problem. I have a Gigabyte GA-B75M-D3V and here is a printscreen of my bios with the power management tab.
What settings should I change?
I think you'd be able to adjust that power management settings in Windows under
Control Panel>Power Options>Edit Plan Settings>Change Advanced Power Settings>USB Settings
Or in Device Manager>USB Root Hub Properties>Power Management Tab
Hi gang. My usb modem HAS to be unplugged then plugged in for it to work?
Even if PC is off when I do this it will automatically start/connect when windows(7) loads and will work normally. If I don't do this I can not get it to work?
'device mngr' shows it as an 'unknown device'?
I have reinstalled it to no avail.
Are you talking about a modem or a usb network adapter?
Is my motherboard compatible with and does it have enough power watts it compatible my Card have power new to & enough with run Is mob Video to run new video card My specs More details about my computer Component Details Processor Intel R Core TM i CPU GHz Memory RAM GB Graphics Intel R HD Graphics Gaming graphics MB Total available graphics memory Primary hard disk GB Free GB Total Windows Home Premium System Manufacturer Gigabyte Technology Co Ltd Model H M-UD H Total amount of system memory GB RAM System type -bit operating system Number Is my mob compatible with new Video Card & have enough power to run it of processor cores Storage Total size of hard disk s GB Disk partition C GB Free GB Total Media drive D CD DVD Graphics Display adapter type NVIDIA GeForce LE Total available graphics memory MB Dedicated graphics memory MB Dedicated system memory MB Shared system memory MB Display adapter driver version Secondary monitor resolution x Primary monitor resolution x DirectX version DirectX Video Card Information Network Realtek RTL D D Family PCI-E Gigabit Ethernet NIC NDIS New Video card info Nvidia G-Force Video Px Video card UPC- Mb PCIExpress X Dual Monitor Support My power supply is watts and on my motherboard now there is only sticks of GB ram Patriot Viper Extreme and nothing else in any of the expansion slots I looked online but cannot get a straight answer Can my motherboard run this card with no issues Thanks I am shine nbsp
No one can say if it will run with no issues, just because there could be any number of complications that could pop up. If you asking will it work with your current system, then yes it will run on your current system with the PSU. I would advise that you uninstall the video drivers (and software) for the current card, changing out to the new card. This will create less of a head ache for you in the end.
I would also suggest trying to find another 2GB ram stick because your motherboard is a Dual Channel motherboard and the computer will run better if you have 4 sticks of ram instead of 3. Its not going to hurt your computer by having 3 sticks of ram versus 4, but you will get better overall performance.
Hello. my rig is
fx 4100 4.53ghz
amd r9 270
corsair 600w gs600 gaming series psu
ocz vertex 3 90gb boot drive
240gb samsung 840 ssd
500 gb seagate hdd
1866mhz kingston hyperx ram
asus sabertooth fx990 r2.0
so my issue is this. I can overclock the r9 just fine, run benchmarks and whatnot. everything runs stable. I have clocked it as far as 1100 core and 1600 memory. everything ran stable on heaven and 3dmark vantage and things like msi kombustor to check for stability. as soon as I went into a game, it went bsod. so I figured ok. oc too high. I dropped it abit, tried again. same result. I continued reducing the core and memory till it went down to stock, and then it runs stable. any increase in core or memory by even 1 mhz, will cause it to crash in game. drivers are all up to date, bios, things like that all up to date. any suggestions as to why games don't like it? its multiple games as well. me1, 2, 3, swtor, wow etc. thanks
Well if the overclock if causing the issue, chances are it can seem stable but then turn out to not be because a certain area is stressed more than on benchmarks or other games. Normally I would suggest working on bumping up the core clock first before memory and then checking stability because thats the easiest part to focus on at first. Memory can cause distortions and other issues like a BSOD just because you stressed it just enough to cause an issue.
Try moving just the core clocks and voltage up first, then work on the memory once you have that stable.
I'm having an issue connecting to my wireless network with my computer. Things were working fine until a few weeks ago when the wifi on my computer stopped connecting; now I can only get internet through a wired connection (although the fact I can do this is strange to me). My rooommate is not having any issues with the wireless whatsoever. I have a fairly new acer aspire s7 which has no difficulties connecting to any other wireless network while I am at campus or have gone home for the weekend. I'm at a loss as to how to fix this issue as it has become impossible to do any form of research while I am at home. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Posibilities are your wireless signal is not in range or the wireless router is full of user who are connected to it, or it surpasses the user's limit.. how many user's has wifi connected to the wireless router?
PSU issue I think
heres what it is when I first installed this card (had a 500w antec psu) the comp was fine till I played diablo and poof shut off the comp via psu , so decide to get a thermaltake 2 600w and hook tht up now ot plays for a longer time
but does the same thing,I took the card back and got a new one of the same
same thing happens , so I decided to try a different approach and I have a psu I modded for xbox 360 tht is wired to stay on and I ran the card powered by tht and was able to play for hours and only 2 times it shut that psu off suggestions or now a psu tht doesnt get fooled so easy or what is really going on...lol thank you
If you got a different video card and a different PSU, chances are there is something else wrong unless you got very unlucky and got another bad part from one of the two things swapped out.
My guess would be one of the following just from one you said:
The new PSU is bad as well
The CPU is overheating and shutting off
GPU could be overheating and shutting off (Though this is unlikely)
Those are just a few things to check, I would go into the bios and see what temp the CPU is running at while in there and decide if its running above what it should be. If that's not the issue I would try returning the PSU for a different one and see if that fixes the issue. Though the fact that the machine shuts off with 3 different PSU's points to a different part being an issue.
What command do I type in Command Prompt if I want to use Last Known Good configuration
Boot into Safe Mode (F8), that's where the option is located
I have put together a new build with the Gigabyte Assassin 2 m/board and a Corsair AX 860i PSU. On start up the PSU clicks out and won't run. The PSU Self test is good - green light and the fan is running, however when I connect all the peripherals the PSU just drops out and will not run. I have double checked all connections from the CPU, M/board, memory, graphics cards. This is all in a Thermaltake Level 10 case, my next check will be the hard drive connections - hot swap bays. Any help will be really appreciated.
I am having a issue with my new router (Tenda W150D Router), its not giving me access for uploading any files through wi fi on my iphone 5s using app (Wireless Drive), even I tried the same with vlc upload feature in iphone still it doesnt work......
I think the issue is with the firewall in the router which I cannot access normally from the router setup...
guys pls help.. any comments are welcome
Hmm; accessing a website is an outbound action thru the firewall on port 80.
A site with file uploading uses the same port 80 as normally used for surfing the web.
We need more data to analyze the problem
?What URL are you accessing for the upload?
from this "iphone 5s using app (Wireless Drive)", I assume the data moves this way:
ISP==router -- wifi to your 5S: using an app called Wireless Drive?can you confirm this please?
?are you sure you're accessing the router and NOT attempting upload via the cellular connection?
Hello, I'm new here. I'm trying to fix my sons Asus laptop. it won't connect wirelessly but will connect via ethernet cable. device manager has exclamation point beside network controller. I cannot download drivers for it. can you help?
"I cannot download drivers for it"... Why? Can you get the driver from here:
If the driver won't install, the Wifi card may be bad... Something that doesn't happen very often
Hay Guys, I need suggestions about the best Gaming Headset with the following characteristics:
Price: 70/90? (97/124$) (58/75£)
For what?: Gaming mainly.
I would check this out: http://goo.gl/LO8f1Z.
Hey guys I had some contractors doing some work on my house today and they needed to shut the circuit off to the room my computer was in The computer was on at the time so it shut off when the power was cut Now it won t go back on Power button does nothing at all and I don t know if it s the power supply mobo or switch I ve got a power supply tester which causes my computers fans to start up when it s plugged in so the power supply does respond not Power mobo button working... issue? The results are in the attached file It shows LL which means to low to register voltage for the - V line I honestly don t know if I even have that line so I don t know if that s bad I attached the label on my power supply too Would Power button not working... mobo issue? no voltage cause a computer to completely not respond Because the fans DO start up when the power supply tester is plugged in I don t think the switch is the problem because I tried to short the power switch jumpers with a paper clip and nothing happened I also took the CMOS battery out for a while and then tried it again and that didn t work Any ideas on whether I need a mobo or a power supply I don t have an extra PSU around to test with but I may try to find one before ordering a new mobo thanks in advance -mike nbsp
Not the switch. Could be the motherboard or PSU, but I don't have any good insight.
I would unplug the PSU and flip the 120/240V switch to 240V, then flip it back before plugging it in. To me, this doesn't make any logical sense, but over about 16 years of playing with PCs I have seen it work twice.
So I play The Sims 3 & currently I can have all the expansion packs running but of course it won't be moving as fast as if I had less running.
My current PC specs are:
HP Pavillion P7-1421 PC
- Next Gen AMD Quad-Core A8-5500 Accelerated Processor
- 8GB DDR3 system memory
- 1.5TB Hard drive
- AMD Radeon HD 7560D
- Super Multi DVD burner
- Windows 8
I'm looking to upgrade in a costly manner & not entirely looking for perfection. Just running faster.
My PC is pretty stock I haven't done anything besides install programs ( The Sims, Simcity, Photoshop)
Well depends on the area you want to boost your machine. If you are speaking in the area of gaming, my suggestion would be to grab a new video card (Since you have an APU, an AMD GPU might be your best option) because that will boost your gaming up significantly.
But its going to depend on what you want to be boosted.
My brother in law has a got himself a free computer to which I am going to donate my old Sapphire X1950GT graphics card. The problem is, is that I can't easily wire it in to the computer as it has a crappy generic PSU with only one Molex and several Sata power plugs.
What I do have, without slicing and dicing and getting out the soldering iron, is the adaptor cable below. What I don't know is whether this has a sufficient amount of wires I.e. 0V and 12V to provide power to my G/Card.
System power consumption with a Sapphire X1950 GT is less than 250W. I think you will be fine with the splitter mentioned above. You probably don't need much extra power to run the card. I assume there is at least a 300W PSU or greater in the system.
Hi all I m hoping you might be able to guide me in diagnosing what the problem is with my editing workstation Specs Microsoft Windows Professional -bit SP CPU Intel Core i GHz C RAM GB Triple-Channel DDR MHz - - - Motherboard Gigabyte Technology Co Ltd X A-UD Socket C Graphics MB GeForce GTX EVGA C Hard Drives GB Western Digital WDC WD HLHX- JJPV SATA C GB Seamus SATA GB Western Digital WDC WD EARS- Z B SCSI Disk Device SATA C Optical Drives PIONEER DVD-RW DVR- D ATA Device have attached rest of Speccy TXT file I ve had a range of problems from random BSOD to general instability slow downs rebuild, PC issue etc) numerous Help diagnosing (after reinstalls, to very slow internet to HDMI output of video card not working OCCT tests said occt core over maximum value I have formatted and reinstalled Windows twice tested no problems and even reseated ram - which seemed to work for a time Help diagnosing PC issue (after numerous reinstalls, rebuild, etc) When problems started again I bit the bullet and paid someone to check it rebuild update BIOS and reinstall Windows which AGAIN seemed to fix the problems for a time this was doubtless a waste of time and money It s caused so much grief that I d move on and buy an entirely new machine - but I m too stubborn I want to get to the bottom of the hardware issue which is hopefully a component that needs to be upgraded anyway and can get on with my life So I m hoping people can give me guidance to run tests and diagnose exactly what the hell is broken in this box Thanks in advance Morgan nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/help-diagnosing-pc-issue-after-numerous-reinstalls-rebuild-etc.200246/
I have a problem with a batch of Dell optiplex 980's, for some reason the Main boards fail at a alarming rate.
According to Dell it is the memory controller that fails.
Error Lights 1,3,4 are on nothing on screen, power led solid blue about 10 error beeps!
Dell tech replaced the main boards and all is fine for a while but same problem persists.
Also according to Dell level 6 tech, it could be over heating, I had some fun proving them wrong, two PC's sealed in a box , hammering them, Temp between 85 Celsius - 90 Celsius in the sealed enclosure, optical drive started melting, cooled the PC's for a day and powered back on, no problems!!
Does any one out there maybe have a issue similar to this on the optiplex 980, main board failures?
Dell Optiplex 980 Lights 134 on no screen
Yes I have exactly the same problem. Turned PC on this morning lights 134 on plus blue power light but no screen at all. Still under warranty, phoning dell in the morning - I will keep you posted
After Broni s series of attempts to help me in THIS THREAD he suggested that I may have a video chip or motherboard issue NOTE I am on issue motherboard Possible a Chromebook now and am trying to clean my fiance s laptop He just got it back from a local tech shop on windows reinstall - he downloaded some nasty viruses via email attachments we believe BAD BAD BOY and I tried to reinstall windows on my own times but the acer discs would not complete the reinstall so we took it to the shop By he d managed to get reinfected but I don t know if it was residual from the previous infection My latest thread to him following his instructions to go into System Recovery mode was After some Googling re not being able to start the Acer the only way I could figure Possible motherboard issue out how to get past the screen with several vertical lines comprised of the little horizontal lines like my earlier video shows let s call it my HVLinePattern for shorthand was to take out battery for over minutes while unplugged the whole time press down power for seconds plug back in reboot and I could F and F but NOT F At some point I got a single set of short beeps cpu failure wild guess per http www fixya com support t -acer aspire laptop problems booting I cannot seem to reproduce these beeps tho I tried to let the laptop Possible motherboard issue start up in regular mode and kept looping the acer logo with options to F or F at the bottom vs a brief flash of black screen until I powered it down with the power button I rebooted tried to F and got what I interpret to be long short beeps immediately followed by long short beeps immediately followed by long short beeps immediately followed by the HVLinePattern screen I powered down and rebooted then hit F chose boot by disc took a screenshot but it s in video format oops can add later if necessary hit F and changed to boot order screenshot on my google drive -bit ly foRTDf put my windows install disc in the drive recovery disc of crossed my fingers rebooted got what I interpret to be long short beeps immediately followed by long short beeps immediately followed by long short beeps immediately followed by the HVLinePattern screen I then took out battery for over minutes while unplugged the whole time pressed down power for seconds plugged back in rebooted and long short beeps immediately followed by long short beeps immediately followed by long short beepsimmediately followed by the HVLinePattern screen I rebooted a few times and shot a little video LINK ON YOUTUBE while I observed the same pattern of beeping Riveting stuff Click to expand As I expressed to Broni I m not terribly optimistic we ve already began the process of shopping for a replacement Now that I know the beeps have a significance I m a bit agitated that the tech shop ignored the HVLinePattern screen and the beeps they likely also heard Oh well At any rate if you have any insights I d be so very appreciative If not I truly understand that my fiance managed to do too much damage by not getting help quickly enough and or by clicking on an especially malicious piece of malware We just hope we can take steps to avoid it again in the future Thank you nbsp
Sorry! must've been half asleep when I posted this under MOBILE COMPUTING ... meant to put it in PROCESSORS AND MOTHERBOARDS and just did so. If there's a way I can delete my original post above, let me know so I can learn the RIGHT WAY to take advantage of this valuable resource.
Moderator note: Irwynn, I moved your post here to a more appropriate subject forum IMO.
Hey how's it going. Any help would be great.
Had an older system so got a new motherboard and CPU. Installed it all and then no power when I try to switch it on. The orange modem light comes on but nothing else turns on.
Gpu- GeForce GTX 460
Ram- Kingston DDR 3
Psu- Shaw p4s6 860w.
I also tried putting in one ram card at a time. Taking the graphic card out and using on board. Taking the motherboard out of the case to see if it was shorting out.
Hey how's it going. Any help would be great.
Had an older system so got a new motherboard and CPU. Installed it all and then no power when I try to switch it on. The orange modem light comes on but nothing else turns on.
Gpu- GeForce GTX 460
Ram- Kingston DDR 3
Psu- Shaw p4s6 860w.
I also tried putting in one ram card at a time. Taking the graphic card out and using on board. Taking the motherboard out of the case to see if it was shorting out.Click to expand...
By any chance could you post a picture of your computer as it is hooked up right now so we can see if your missing anything. Try to check if the 4pin/8pin connector on the motherboard is hooked up and check for tightness of all the Motherboard connectors to start with.