With all the discussion around the forum about the pros and cons of vista's UAC, the news of a better alternative, when it arrived in my inbox today, (from Technibble), looked to be a perfect answer.
However a look around the web found this information on the package, (Smart UAC Replacement), found this warning about the developers of the package.
The package looks like a perfect answer to some of my annoyances with UAC and is available / recommended on sites I would normally class as trusted, so wanted to ask if anybody has any further information or comments.
I recommend downloading and running Reimage. It's a computer repair tool that has been proven to identify and fix many Windows problems with a high level of success.
I've used it in the past to identify and fix everything from blue screens (BSOD's), ActiveX errors, corrupt files and processes, dll/exe/sys errors, recover lost memory, Windows update problems, defragging, malware removal etc.
You can download it direct from this link http://downloadreimage.com/directdownload.php. (This link will automatically start a download of Reimage that you can save to your computer.)
I agree this looks sooo good, but, do we trust the provider? I don't think I will be the first one to try it out.http://www.vistax64.com/software/180321-uac-replacement.html
Hi, am prepared to be labelled "thick as mince" however I wonder if anyone can advise how to proceed with the following: Replaced cracked laptop screen on a TM99, on first start up after replacement, the screen worked.....woohoo!, however.....on next startup, there was nothing, no lights, no start up screen...nada. Replaced new with original screen, which although cracked had worked, and it too now failed. Any ideas? The cable for the screen was seated properly and securely, nothing else was moved so am struggling to establish a reason for this non conformance. Could it possibly be a jammed "lid closed" switch? If this is potentially the culprit, anyone know whereabouts it is? Thanks
I am replacing the stock fan/heatsink on my HIS Radeon HD 6790 with the Arctic Accellero R2 Plus. This fan has a 3 pin and 4 pin option for the fan. The stock fan is only 2 pin...black and red. The aftermarket fan's wiring is black, red and yellow, and black (ground), red (VDC), yellow (signal) and blue (PWM).
My question is can I just splice the original connector with just red and black into the aftermarket wiring? The fan came with a molex adapter but I'd rather the video card be able to regulate the fan rather than it just be going full out all the time. Is the factory red and black also considered VDC and ground?
Thanks in advance!
More about : 6790 fan pinout aftermarket fan replacement
"There is only one way to boot a computer..."
Chris, if the fan will plug into the motherboard, it will regulate the speed and u will be alright.
Hey!! So basically I need a new one and I have decided over what to buy and did some research but I want to check in with you guys just to be sure that the gpu and psu are compatible. This is what I want: GTX 760 2gb Physx CUDA; and my current psu is: Silver Power SP-S650. Never had a gpu that needed two 6-pin PCI Express supplementary power connectors before so I want to be super sure that I got it right )
Silver Power SP-S650 650W PSU
ATX 12V V2.3, 80 Plus Bronze, Standard, 4x 6+2pin PCIe, 14x SATA, 7x MolexClick to expand...
By the link in the quote you have a PSU with 4x 6+2pin PCIe connectors, and 650W is plenty for two GTX 760 in SLI.
My gaming computer turned in February and now that it s no longer under warranty things are going wrong This week in the middle of a project the machine rebooted on its own It restarted but shortly after did replacement PSU question it again and again I still have free tech support and two tech s offered help on what could be causing it First I replaced the cooling system thinking the PSU replacement question one installed failed and the cpu was overheating doing it It still rebooted I purchased software called Hardware Monitor to see if the power supply voltage was bad but it seemed ok then I swapped out the memory in case there was a bad stick It still rebooted My support tech feels it still could be the power supply and suggested I replace it I was told that I would need to buy the exact model and that buying any other would require a complete rebuild of my PC Since the computer is years old the power supply isn t sold anymore I was wondering if it s true that my computer would need to be completely rebuilt if I bought a PSU that wasn t the same The power supply is a Enermax Galaxy EVO w model egx ewt My computer was made by Digital Storm More system details available if needed nbsp
1. What hardware do you have in your system that needs such power? We need your hardware specs: CPU, GPU, amount of RAM, drives, etc.
2. Why does he believe a complete rebuild is necessary because that particular psu isn't made anymore? Is it a special size? If your case is to standard specs then see point #3.
3. Who is this support tech? Does he work for Digital Storm by chance? Check these psu's that will more than meet your power needs: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...07657 600479299&IsNodeId=1&name=1200W - 1499W
4. Before you spend any $ find someone who has a digital volttage meter and test your psu to see if that is really the cause.
I have a Dell Latitude D that I dropped while in its carrying bag so even backlight Dell screen Latitude replacement no after it wasn t a real hard landing Now the backlight won t come on I swapped an entire screen assembly from an identical D and it still won t turn the backlight on I swapped the screens again and the borrowed D still works fine and mine won Dell Latitude no backlight even after screen replacement t work I didn t bother to test my screen in the borrowed D I can run an external CRT with mine and I can see the LCD display if I shine a light on it so I know the display is working and not cracked The laptop won t drive the CRT Dell Latitude no backlight even after screen replacement unless it thinks the lid is down so to use the keyboard I removed the sense magnet from the lid and taped it to the place where it would be with the lid closed I ve noticed in the past that this D often stayed fully on including the display it seemed when I closed the lid and walked away for hours Note When I tested the borrowed screen I had the sense magnet removed When the magnet is taped in place simulating lid down both the backlight and the display are off I can t see the display even when a light is shined on it but when the magnet is removed simulating lid up I get the display with no backlight It seems like the display knows whether the lid is up or down but the backlight seems to act like the lid is always down Is this possible What should I look for nbsp
Did you replace the backlight inverter?
I have a board that has dual AMD Athlon 64 FX-74s, the fans are incredidbly loud and I searched online but all I found were pretty much the exact same ones that I already have. I don't want to replace the current fans with identical ones that I will probably have the same problem with... So I was wondering if anyone knew of some compatible replacements for these... I would like ones that will give good air flow for the price seeing how I will need 2 of them....
No modern CPU coolers support the socket F from AMD. You may have to find older models.
Hi Laptop screen is badly cracked needs replacement Original laptop is a Compaq Presario CQ with a CCFl screen n b -l rev c This is with a pin connection and the pink white backlight cable I already have an LED Screen from a dead laptop LP WH TL N This is with a pin connection and no other external cables As it stands right now I have the cable going from inside the laptop proper splitting in one fork going screen cracked, unsure about replacement Laptop into the left side of the inverter and the Laptop screen cracked, unsure about replacement other turning into a flat cable and going into the screen as a pin connection There is also the pink white backlight cable going into the right side of the inverter I m wondering there is any way to use the LED screen using a pin to pin converter Laptop screen cracked, unsure about replacement or possibly to purchase a pin cable outright and ignoring the inverter competely or something along those lines I simply haven t been able to figure out to what level the laptop is built around using that specific screen Thanks in advance nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/laptop-screen-cracked-unsure-about-replacement.194633/
Hello everyone Ok I haven t posted in a while Replacement failing PSU's keeps as I Replacement PSU's keeps failing have bought a Replacement PSU's keeps failing new PC This actually concerns my old pc that I gave to my friend The thing is I have recently found out that the pc has had Power Supplies that have failed in about a year s time Each of these Power Supplies wasn t a cheap model They were collectively well known brands I have asked my friend to tell me what is the current model and wattage of the current PSU My question is what could cause a repeated failure of decent Power Supplies My friend isn t much of a techie and he surmised that it maybe is the Motherboard This Desktop PC is about years old It is an AMD Dual Core Gig RAM DDR The Motherboard is a Gigabyte KA- N SLI and it has currently an ATI video Card I think it s a HD Anyway I originally had a W power supply which couldn t handle the strains of the new video card and the computer s PSU failed As I was working full time in a very stressful job Replacement PSU's keeps failing I did not have the means to buy a new PSU and install it myself as I would have normally The end result was we took it to the shops and spent odd dollars AU dollars for the Power Supply itself for a Watt Power Supply and within to months that power supply failed Currently the PC works intermittently It sometimes turns on and works fine and recently the last days it does not even turn on I just don t understand how a good brand PSU can fail so quickly My friend thinks it might be the Case Fans as the case I had it in had was a gaming case with big mm fan in the front of the Case and two mm fans to the side He seems to think maybe it is the fans chewing up power but I tend to think not as I ran several peripherals when I had that PC and I was a power user compared to my friend who basically only occassionally uses it and he generally only uses it for old games like Neverwinter NIghts I can t seem to get my head around a possible solution My theories are as follows Power Outlet faulty I thought maybe there was a overload at the power socket where the PC is plugged in or possibly the whole house as he said he thought of that and has moved the plug in for the PC around Motherboard If it was the motherboard would it not make those beeping sounds at start From what I have gathered talking to my friend it appears that since the PC hasn t started it has been making distinctive beeps indicating a hardware fault My PC noob friend has stated maybe it was the connection between the MB and the PSU but I thought that was preposterous as the connection wires would be coming from the PSU and not the MB so the chances that PSU cables to PC are faulty just sounds impossible Memory I have not seen the PC myself and only spoke to him on the phone but I will be going over to his house on the weekend to have a look and if need be bring the PC over to my place to take it apart and start testing each component separately to find the fault Also my friend says maybe its just wear and tear But surely that does not make sense I used to own this PC and I was a heavy gamer I played in the years - quite heavily with this pc and I had several joysticks and that was when it had a w Antec Power Supply with absolutely no issues I do know that a mutual friend apparently fixed it last time it broke down PSU He apparently replaced the PSU and gave the interior a clean with compressed air I have a sneaking suspicion he might have tweaked the voltages but again I am not sure and I will be confirming with this technician tomorrow I have instructed my friend to run a dxdiag and send the file to me so I can post it with this thread but I don t think that is gonna happen as it sounds like the PC wont load to windows Can someone please give me clues to how to go about indentifying the core problem here Am I on the right path with my analysis I just can t fathom that it could be the motherboard Is it possible for a faulty motherboard to... Read more
If the psu's are failing like that, chances are something is causing the issue (the odds of that many psu's failing that quickly is very low)
Test the Psu's on another system for starters to see if they are actually bad. That could at least let you make sure it's not something else causin the problem.
I would also try other outlets because a faulty plug can be an issue (plus use a power strip, it helps protect your machine ).
I do not think its the motherboard or the video card as if it was, they would not be functional period. It can also be heat/stress on the psu if the psu is getting to hot due to location or if there's lots if dust build up causing it to fail.
Hi all My computer was top of the line years ago The past few years my computer has been freezing crashing and bluescreening due to the kind of functionality I force it through namely the use of multiple programs at once internet livestream games The fan hasn t worked for over a year now it was choking I simply turned it off and often attempted to keep my system as cool as possible using a large floor fan Today it gave it s death knoll - freezing with video ram artifacts all over the screen I had been I messing around with the EVE Online character creator with internet playing music and Steam open naturally Un- and reinstallation of the drivers would not fix the artifacts it had forced non-native resolution it wouldn t go beyond x or something native is x and was happily informing me that I wasn t quot currently using a display attached to an Nvidia GPU quot despite the fact that the second I uninstalled the drivers my computer was GTX Nvidia 8800 for Geforce Replacement searching for and reinstalling them again I gave up and shut down to look at the power supply and when I turned it back on it was miraculously in it s native resolution and artifact-free but I ve abused it long enough now that it probably only has a few months left and is in desperate Replacement for Nvidia Geforce 8800 GTX need of replacement I realize it might even be artifact-ridden next time I turn it on Dell pre-built desktop years old Windows Vista Ultimate bit Intel Core Quad CPU at GHz GB RAM I think my power supply is max W but I m having trouble figuring the label out so I attached a picture in case I m sorely mistaken I m looking for something that works within my current specs approximately the same size as the Geforce GTX my case won t fit anything much bigger as far as I can tell and I can t get a new case because it barely fits height-wise where I need it to go As I said I use multiple programs and I especially game on my computer so I need something that can handle my usage On the other hand I am looking to completely replace my system within a few years with something custom from Origin so I don t want to be pouring money into this system So - something that will allow me to eke out a few more years within my other current specs without costing me a bundle Say around or Please let me know if you need more information and thanks in advance nbsp
Umm have you thought about buying a new computer, yours is rather old. The amount of work, time and money you will probably spend on it trying to fix it up until you throw it away will be quite a lot.
Swapped out the older ASUS motherboard when it apparently died - was also told that by a repair shop A sympathetic person donated his quot old quot ASUS P WD complete with PCU and RAM and heat sink for the cost of shipping so went to work He said he had upgraded to a more powerful setup and that this all worked when he removed it and stored it I had upgraded the power supply a few years ago to an ULTRA d watt when I added a couple Replacement up won't power motherboard drives and it always seemed to work I printed out the instruction manual for the P and not having done a lot of work on PC s for some years other than adding drives etc followed it very closely The plugs from the case were labeled so I m pretty sure I got the power amp interrupt switches case lights and fans etc all hooked up right Also the main cable to the board from the power supply and a secondary power supply cable to a socket near the CPU Also got the C drive EIDE and the additional SATA drives hooked up to the board and Replacement motherboard won't power up to the power supply and believe I have them right Maybe a question on the C drive There a set of sockets for EIDE drives incl one designated as a Primary and another Primary socket for an Replacement motherboard won't power up IDE drive If I recall my C drive is an EIDE so I should have connected to the right socket on the board Even if not shouldn t the CPU and case lights and fans power up When the big moment came to hit the switch it was an anti-climax Nothing happened The only sign of life is the green power LED on the board no CPU fan or anything No case lights or fans either I checked all the connections I mentioned and believe I have them right Being there s virtually no sign of life other than the green LED power light when I switch on the power supply could it be the power supply may have been the problem the whole time How can I test it - I have a digital meter Thanks for any ideas nbsp
Short the 2 power switch pins on the motherboard with a screwdriver.
Hello, I'm pretty sure my 4850 is ready to bite the dust. I'm looking to replace it with a nvidia card around $100.00. any suggestions? I'm running win 7 64 bit, athlon64 5000,4mb ddr2 ,ssd. I do light gaming I.e. diablo series , icewind dale series , witcher series etc. thanks . mlmassie
Can you give us either the make/model of your mobo, or the make model of your computer if it is a pre-built.
Hi all I normally buy my screens from ebay but does anyone know anywhere cheap . im from london uk so pref in uk please .. thanks
What's wrong with still using EBay? I get all my screens from EBay suppliers
Hi there TechSpot Long time since I last posted but I had a very specific question I m not sure I could get answered elsewhere So my lady friend has been doing all her computing on her Droid RAZR (possible V5 -- replacement GPU y/n?) Acer Aspire Laptop which is kind of sad for me - as a long time system builder and power user - to watch With Christmas coming up her parents and I were going to buy her a laptop Now I work at an electronics retailer and on Black Friday we Laptop GPU replacement -- Acer Aspire V5 (possible y/n?) started selling the Acer Aspire Laptop GPU replacement -- Acer Aspire V5 (possible y/n?) V for I impulse bought it figuring with a GHz Core i and gigs of RAM it was no weakling for a beginner I ve always fantasized about playing games with an SO cooperatively and I thought maybe just maybe this rig could manage FPS in simple games like Magicka or even ambitiously Left Dead But no such luck despite the age of those games My question given that it s got Intel HD integrated graphics it s doubtful the machine even has a PCIe port on the motherboard But before I tear it apart to find out I thought I might Laptop GPU replacement -- Acer Aspire V5 (possible y/n?) ask the wise minds of TechSpot So anybody have any idea if I can upgrade this sucker TL DR Bought a budget laptop for my girlfriend Want to know if I can upgrade from integrated video on this particular model an Acer V - nbsp
There's no way to upgrade a video card in a laptop unless it's something from ASUS, MSI, Alienware, (If you're lucky)
But even if you could, the upgrade would probably be anywhere from $200-$600+ maybe even more. Old 7900GTX Go cards are still fetching roughly $100 on Ebay
I have a HP dv7-1285dx notebook, and was wondering if you guys know the best battery replacement I can get for my money. My current battery is so shot and can't last at all. I'm hoping not to break the bank like on the HP website.
There are a few on UK Amazon (presumably on worldwide Amazon too?) for around £30 ($47), just search "dv7-1285dx battery"
I ve had this keyboard http www amazon com Microsoft-Reclusa-Gaming-Keyboard-Black dp B MR XWK for quite a while now almost years and it has been quite an adventure The basic UI it came replacement Keyboard with was perfect as I don t Keyboard replacement want to spend hours and hours Keyboard replacement trying to figure out how to open my media player with button Leading me to my basic and very important need for a new gaming keyboard My new keyboard will need to have media controls that open things besides Windows Media Player Ituns Spotify etc I despise WMP and often click to use my music without a thought It s convenient and a luxury I no longer choose to live without I don t care whether the KB is mechanical or Keyboard replacement not as long as the keys aren t squished together raised to ridiculous quot ergonomic quot heights or covered in a rubber that will fade in a few months My reclusa has just one button that the letter has faded from in it s years of use I think that s pretty awesome when world of warcraft is basically just spamming one button for hours at a time I would like my new KB to have macro keys besides the media panel which I m assuming all gaming KBs come with today and as user-friendly as possible I looked up the BlackWidow linked as the quot Unicorn quot KB on MMO s Setup of the Month and found that quite a few people are experiencing issues with keys becoming stuck in some way or another or just failing to work at all something like - I don t want to play the lottery when I m spending this much money on a luxury item The quot Narwhal quot keyboard G seemed fantastic until I realized the keys are TINY smaller than my laptops keyboard This is just unacceptable So all-in-all guys and gals I am looking for your kind help If you ve got the perfect KB or maybe have owned one in the past that meets my needs please post its name model Very much appreciated Also what the hell is the big deal with quot mechanical quot keyboards Req Again Keys that won t fade Keys the standard or close to size Media controls for things besides WMP Easily programmable macro keys Backlit Could be red white and blue as long as it lights up with some form of lighting Not required but would be nice headphone jack that does not cut out any sound nbsp
Do you know Google?
I have a Dell Inspiron with an extended life battery that sticks out the back a little The power cord is dying - works intermittently I have a potential replacement cord that came with a different laptop I d like to use However I am uncertain if this may cause problems or even be unsafe First concern The current non-working power cord has a hexagonal cross-section male end that plugs into the laptop The replacement cord has the more typical round cylindrical end The replacement cord does fit in the laptop and it is not apparent physically that it is a problem Second Concern The current non-working hexagonal cord input matches the input on the replacement round cord as expected since they re U cord Power replacement S cords meant for U S power sources However the output is not Power cord replacement the same current non-working hexagonal cord output DC V A replacement round cord output DC V A Will the higher amperage of the replacement cord cause a problem especially a potential safety issue The laptop is left plugged in for long periods of Power cord replacement time unattended I d hate to start a fire Can someone with more electrical knowledge let me know if my concerns have merit or is my little but more than zero knowledge of electricity creating a concern where there should be none nbsp
The current, non-working, power cord has a hexagonal (cross-section) male end that plugs into the laptop. The replacement cord has the more typical round (cylindrical) end. The replacement cord does fit in the laptop and it is not apparent, physically, that it is a problem.Click to expand...
If the cord will fit the plug without changing polarity, you don't have a problem there.
The current, non-working (hexagonal), cord input matches the input on the replacement (round) cord, as expected since they're U.S. cords meant for U.S. power sources. However, the output is not the same.
current, non-working (hexagonal), cord output: DC 19.5V 3.34A
replacement (round) cord output: DC 19.5V 4.62A
Will the higher amperage of the replacement cord cause a problem, especially a potential safety issue? The laptop is left plugged in for long periods of time, unattended. I?d hate to start a fire.
Can someone with more electrical knowledge let me know if my concerns have merit or is my little, but more than zero, knowledge of electricity creating a concern where there should be none.Click to expand...
As long as you operate at the same voltage and supply enough current you will be fine. Same voltage as in DC or AC and the same number value for the amount of voltage.
Current values (3.34A) can be higher as long as the are not lower, your device will only draw the current it requires. If the device requires more current than is available, this is where problems start to arise.
I could go into more details but I will spare you the other un-known language. LOL
The laptop is left plugged in for long periods of time, unattended. I?d hate to start a fire.Click to expand...
I'm not going to tell you that it's not possible for it to start a fire but it's highly unlikely. The most common effect would be frying components on the inside of the power supply or PC. You might smell the components afterward but usually nothing more. As long as you stick with the same voltage and the same or more current, you shouldn't have any issues.
I have look on alot of websites and havent found one that is compatible. Would like some ideas or places to look. Thanks
try some custom cooling? maybe a heatink of an old card with some extra fans spliced in
I am hoping one of you fine people can help me to find a replacement motherboard for my HP Pavilion p p I have gone through the Pavilion Replacement HP p6226p for motherboard needed whole troubleshooting routine -- all peripherals RAM replaced with known-good power supply amp CPU and still can not get into the BIOS setup or boot Replacement motherboard needed for HP Pavilion p6226p past the HP splash screen I m down to replacing the motherboard now This computer currently has Motherboard -- M N -LA Viola CPU -- AMD Athlon II x Quad Core Graphics -- NVIDIA GeForce Integrated I m fine with a replacement motherboard with at least equivalent graphics as I do occasionally game with my boyfriend League of Legends Magicka running on lowest settings is fine with me I Replacement motherboard needed for HP Pavilion p6226p m in the market for a new computer but would like to keep this one limping along for another months or so if all it will cost me is a motherboard I have a Frys amp Microcenter nearby located in Houston and would like to go pick up a shiny new motherboard ASAP so if you could point me to one on their site it would be greatly appreciated Thank you for your time nbsp
Check here and make sure that you have a PayPal account:
I have a HP Pavilion DV7 - 4285dx which comes with a Multi DVD +/- DL blah blah whatever drive in it. (no bluray)
I would like to know if I could find a replacement bluray drive for this laptop.
Does anyone know where I could find this or if this is even possible?
I would assume its possible since that I had bought a bluray drive for my PC, and it works.
After some more research I found a replacement part that should work.
For anyone looking for similar answers, the part number is 605417-001 CT21L
Just do a google search with part of that number or all to help find the correct parts.
Hello. I have a custom-built computer with a Gigabyte GA-KN8SC-939 motherboard with a Athlon64 3500+ processor. The motherboard had been having problems starting about a few years ago with random crashes occurring whenever devices were plugged in to now crashing and freezing up on a regular basis. I suspected it was the motherboard (no other devices were having problems, and the memory wasn't faulty), so I believe I need to replace the motherboard. However, knowing the age of this computer, I don't know if it's possible. Do you guys know of a motherboard that would have performance similar to this one and also work with a Socket 939 Athlon64 3500+ processor?
About the only place you will find a 939 board these days is ebay or at a computer shop that deals in used hardware. For less than $150 you can get an AM3 board Athlon II X2 and 4GB DDR3 If you want to go that route.
CPU: AMD Athlon II X2 250 Regor 3.0GHz
Motherboard: ASRock M3A770DE AM3
RAM:Crucial 4GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333
A setup such as this while not exceptionally powerful by todays standards, would run circles around that old socket 930 Athlon64 3500+ processor.
I purchased a replacement DVD R/W for my Dell Inspiron E1505. When I start up the computer the light comes on the drive and I am able to open the drive by pushing the button on the drive. my problem is the drive does not show up on "my computer" nor in the device manager. I updated my BIOS from the Dell website but that did not fix the problem.
The seller said he tested the drive on laptop the same model as min and that it worked. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The optical drive may be defective. Return it for another...
I am replacing an old mobo due to constant running and bulging capacitors. But its my first time dinking with anything mobo related. Or really anything that isn't replacing a bad PSU.
The old one is an MSI P965 Neo-7.
The new one is a Biostar G41 DVI.
I have the CPU installed fine and went to put the heatsink on top (Ultra brand). The screw holes are too small. Of course, that's when I noticed that I didn't remove the mounting bracket for the heatsink from the back of the old mobo. But I can't get it off. It seems to be glued in using some kind of foam tape pad. The new mobo didn't come with a mounting bracket.
Is there some kind of way to remove the old mounting bracket and install it on the new mobo OR do I have to find myself a new mounting bracket (or heatsink) somewhere?
Usually some foam is placed between the mounting bracket and the back of the motherboard to prevent the board from getting short circuited. The foam has probably stuck to the two surfaces and hardened over time, which is why they seem glued together. If you aren't worried about damaging the old board (since you are replacing it), just pry off the old backplate with a screw driver.
I tried to replace the keyboard on my sons Dell Inspiron and the black flip tab/clamp that holds the ribbon wire to the motherboard broke. Any ideas on where to find a replacement or how to connect it securely another way? I really don't want to buy a new motherboard and Dell doesn't offer the part by itself. Thanks in advance for any help.
Common trouble... I have purchased a non-working laptop just for these clips. Now I have spare motherboards that I can salvage these parts from. There's really no other way to fix this
suggest me a gud mobo as my old mobo is dead. asus preferred and budget is 100-120$ [5k-6k INR]
DELL E2210H, C2D E8400 , 3x2GB DDR3 @ 1333mhz TRANSCEND JETRAM , 1TB SEAGATE HDD, MSI ATI R5770 running win ultimate 64bit.
PSU - 550W HUNTKEY greenClick to expand...
Can your Dell case hold a full ATX motherboard?
Also, if your CPU cooler is held in with 4 screws you will find you'll be needing a new cooler to go along with the new motherboard.
You may also find your new motherboard will not fit in the Dell case, so you might also need a new case to go with that.
Hey guys,I'm thinking of getting a fairly used hp desktop replacement.about a year old,but seeing the article on the site about people having issues with desktop replacements,I'm having second thoughts.Can anyone recommend an alternative?
What kind of budget are you working with. A desktop worth mentioning in your situation makes work sound fun again. What will you be working on? Can't think of any alternatives to a desktop replacement, besides an actual desktop. Sounds like you need something powerful to use on the go.
I'm new the forum and could use some advice. I have experience with removing and replacing all parts of the computer except motherboards.
Cutting the long story short, I tried updating my BIOS last night and I have now ended up with a corrupt BIOS and everytime I try to boot from my Windows 7 CD it blue screens.
I think its time for an upgrade and therefore I would like some suggestions on a new motherboard. I have already bought a 1TB SATAII HDD which is on its way. I would like to replace the motherboard.
I currently have a ASUS P5N73-AM
My computer has a Quad-Core processor, I don't need the built-in Graphics card as I have a stand-alone ATI card. I have 4GB of RAM, but if possible would like to upgrade to 6 or 8.
Thanks for you help in advance,
We need to know the exact model of CPU, but from what you've said, you have a LGA775 motherboard, and DDR2 RAM. Your CPU is likely a Core2Quad, but it doesn't hurt to confirm exactly what CPU you have.
You will be limited by the fact your current motherboard is also mATX, and because most DDR2 motherboards in that format for your CPU have only two slots available, and a max RAM of 4GB - it looks like your at your maximum already.
That said, here are some I would consider (I prefer Gigabyte over everything else but its personal preference):
1. Asus P5KPL-AM EPU iG31 Socket 775 onboard VGA 6 Channel Audio mATX Motherboard £32.94 from eBuyer
2. Asrock G31M-S R2.0 G31 Socket 775 VGA Out 6 Channel Audio mATX Motherboard This supports 8GB RAM £32.99 from eBuyer
3. Gigabyte GA-G31M-ES2L iG31 Socket 775 onboard VGA 7.1 channel audio mATX Motherboard £33.00 from eBuyer
4. Asus P5QPL-AM iG41 Socket 775 onboard VGA 6 Channel Audio mATX Motherboard this supports 8GB RAM £34.90 from eBuyer
You will need to ensure you check your CPU is supported by the motherboards above if you wish to purchase them - or let us know and we can confirm for your peace of mind.
Replacement components for a computer that does not post My desktop computer has been exhibiting unusual components that not a does Replacement POST computer for behavior over the pass week Unfortunately my pc does not always post when the power button is pressed Sometimes the computer turns on after several hours When Replacement components for a computer that does not POST the computer does not post I cannot hear the drives spin up or any posting process including beeps Unfortunately my time is limited for Replacement components for a computer that does not POST researching and troubleshooting the situation since this computer is down I have re-seated all the components inside the case yet do not have additional components to swap in and out The computer switch seems to work on the case When opening the case and pressing the power button CPU graphic card and case fans turn on The paperclip switch technique did not make the computer post either same effect as the power button Changing the motherboard battery made no difference My initial thoughts relates to the motherboard or video card since the power supply is less than months old Corsair TX W When the computer turns on it does not encounter any errors or hiccups and performs as expected My first inclination is to begin looking into replacement components yet I was not planning a major system upgrade So I humbly request suggestions on replacing my motherboard processor and video card My current system has processing power for most computing tasks except when doing heavy multi-tasking with streaming HD video My requirements for replacement components would revolve on a dual monitor setup moving large files file archiving and HD video decoding in a multi-tasking environment This rig does not serve as a gaming machine Value is a top priority for replacement components My budget will be between and AMD seems like the better value The Phenom II X T looks good with cores The motherboard and video card are not easy choices It has been years since my last system build and the technology has rapidly evolved The motherboard should have at least Sata connection most seem to have and on-board sound USB would be nice yet not essential The video card should be powerful enough for basic photo editing and viewing HD content I do have GB of OCZ PC ram from a previous hot deal yet it did not work under my current setup Below is a short list of potential candidates for replacement component and my current system I am hoping this thread would begin a discussion on the components that offer the best bang for the buck Any suggestions would help me avoid major disappointments with getting this system back online Update The computer has not turn on in several days it may be completely dead Replacement Components ----------------------------------- Phenom II X T Black Edition ASUS M A GTD PRO USB AM AMD GX SATA Gb s USB HDMI ATX AMD Motherboard XFX Radeon HD Video Card or something under Current System --------------------- Processor Athlon X GHz MB L Cache Socket Heatsink AMD Heatsink-Fan Thermalright XP- C w mm Fan Motherboard A N-SLI Deluxe Video Card XFX GeForce GT -MB PCI Express Power Supply Corsair TX- w Memory x GB Mhz PC DDR RAM PIN DIN Monitor Dual Dell Inch WA nbsp
Take it to a respected computer repair shop, and find out exactly which component is failing. It might cost you $60 -$90, but will save you money in the long run.
I currently have this monitor http www newegg com Product Product aspx Item N E amp Tpk wb It doesn t say what the backlight is is light for looking replacement Monitor dark, too but I m pretty sure it is a CCFL My monitor is too dark I replaced a quot monitor with a cd m that was brighter than this and it is listed as cd m When I got the monitor I needed a replacement and didn t bother sending it back Now it is too late for that I would like to know if I can replace the back light If so where can I get one I ve done a fair bit of googling and have not found anything I don t really know how to search for this kind of thing I would like to note that I very much enjoy this monitor and the pros out weight the cons by an order of magnitude I Monitor is too dark, looking for replacement light would Monitor is too dark, looking for replacement light buy this monitor again even if it really is dark It has NO DITHERING even with very close shades over a large area The ms response time isn t noticeable I think that this is measured in a full black-to-white instead of the more popular gtg anyway any help is much appreciated even if the answer is quot no that s not possible quot nbsp
Although it's not something I've ever attempted myself it looks as though it can be done. Found this link as a possible source for the lamp itself and it appears there is a link for instructions. Didn't track it to your specific monitor and don't know if these guys are reliable but maybe it's a good place to start.
I need a new battery or charger for toshiba laptop A105-S2101. The battery is a PA3451U-1BRS and its a DC 14.4v 2000mah.
Well first off the battery wont hold or take a charge. Everytime I unplug it from the wall the laptop goes off too. The lights do come on the laptop showing that its charging.
2nd thing is does voltage matter on battery replacement? I cant find 14.4 replacement thats cheap. All ones I find 10.? volt with 4000-4400mah on ebay.
You need to use the same battery, and the same charger voltages. High capacity batteries usually have a higher mah figure, but I would replace them like for like.
Batteries are never cheap, and they do wear out - some faster than others, but eventually they all die and stop holding charge.
I am looking for a new case and PSU for my current computer and my next computer after I upgrade -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Current System Spec -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Q GHZ GIGABYTE EP -DS R GB PC case and a PSU computer Looking replacement for mhz x gb x gb Nvidia GTX mb Asus Xonar DX soundcard Windows x Jeantech W PSU Operating system is on TB drive two TB data Looking for a replacement PSU and computer case drives one GB drive all sata drives -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I will be replacing the budget case I currently use and the quot Jeantech W PSU quot After a lot of research the best candidates in my opinion Coolermaster CM II Advanced Case Corsair W HX modular PSU My concerns are whether these will be suitable for use after I upgrade I will be investing on my next CPU motherboard RAM GPU and will be upgrading to whatever offers the best price performance I could upgrade now but have been advised to wait for the next generation of hardware to hit which should spawn some bargains on the current top hardware Considering my budget I do not want to overlook a quality case and PSU The Coolermaster CM II Advanced offers versatility with modular drive bays and the like I don t know whether W will be enough though To note I don t think I ll run a multi-GPU setup it just seems like a major headache I am more likely to buy a dual core GPU if it is worth it Case fans are something I have always overlooked in the past I have read some things about where to position fans in a case for optimal airflow Now I need to figure out which fans I should get To quote from the specification Air cooling support for up to fans with support for up to x mm fans x Case Fans are included - Front mm Blue LED Fan Top mm Fan and rear mm Fan Will I need anything else Are there better options I can replace these with Thank you very much for any suggestions nbsp
Excellent picks. Both of them should do fine for all your future upgrades.
I'm finding that now that I've got two of them running in crossfire the XFX card I have with the reference ATI cooler is running hot. After last gaming session MSI Afterburner reported 87C max temp. So I've been playing with the idea of selling it and getting another MSI card which comes with a very good cooler, or just buying a cooler (which would probably cost around the same as selling the XFX card and putting money toward a new MSI one).
Anyone got any experience? Any recommended coolers? Tips for installation?
This cooler is very good if you want to go the replacement route. I Don't know about prices in Scotland, but here the prices on the 58xx series are very good, and as good as they are probably going to get. as far as installation tips. more GPU's get damaged because people pull straight up when they remove the heat-sink. When you are ready to remove it, gently twist it back and forth keeping it on center until you break the (now very set) thermal compound loose. Be very sparing on the thermal compound as well. it does not take much to cover the small chip.
hope that helps some.
I have a Toshiba Satellite A350D-005 and I had a major spill on the keyboard, I took the keyboard out and am going to replace it as the whole things is trashed but the laptop its self its perfectly fine. My question may sound really stupid but if I bought a replacement keyboard of a different model would it work? There are some very similar models such as A300D-005 for much cheaper than mine. What would happen if I were to use it?
Your best bet is to dig around on Toshiba forums or just on the net in general. You'll often find that all models in a range will share many of the same parts. See if you can find a part number for the keyboard either from a label or part number on the keyboard or the manual/toshiba website. You'll probably be able to use a keyboard from any Toshiba of that age/range but best double checking first.
My first post so please be patient with me. My PC is a Dell Dimension 8200, (vintage 2002) Pentium 4, 512 cache, 2GB memory, 120GB HD.
I upgraded my OS from Win XP Pro to Win 7 Ultimate in Nov 2010 and my soundcard completely stopped working as being incompatible with Win 7. There are no updating drivers as it is old technology according to the manufacturer (Voyetra Turtle Beach Santa Cruz DSP). Went downtown and bought a replacement and when I tried to install it I found that the connectors didn?t match. The salesman said that Dell uses proprietary connectors therefore I must use a Dell card. Dell doesn?t have any for my outdated system.
So my question is: Will a USB soundcard, (such as the Sound Blaster X-Fi Surround 5.1 Pro or equal) actually solve my problem, i.e., do everything a regular soundcard does? It just sounds too good to be true!
Many thanks for any assistance you can provide.
Did you motherboard come with on-board audio and you added the Turtle Beach sound card or did that sound card come with the PC. Your PC can use a PCI card, not a PCI-express card.
I have a comp. with an ASUS PSN-MX motherboard and it needs to be replaced. I couldn't find one online. Any recommendations on another mobo that would work in place of this one on a small budget?
You sure it's not the ASUS P5N-MX you're talking about? there's plenty of them online, just type it in Google.
My socket AM2 based computer has a faulty motherboard and needs a replacement to get it up and running again. It does not turn on, I have ruled out the other components as the cause of this problem.
The other components are:
AMD Athlon 64 4xxx/5xxx+ X2 series dual core processor
2GB PC3200 RAM
Asus 7900GS GPU
It looks like a replacement will cost around £25-60 judging by what is available on ebuyer.com.
Any suggestions/recommendations? Anything on par with the old motherboard will be fine. I won't need something future proof as this is only a secondary computer my family uses.
I will be upgrading my own computer next year and passing it down to them so we are only looking at getting this computer back up and running in the meantime (they are currently stuck with the aging laptop!)
Thank you in advance your help will be much appreciated
also, Merry Christmas =)
You might have made a typo in describing your CPU. Is it an Athlon 64 X2 4600+?
I am surprised how few retailers are selling AM2 boards these days. TigerDirect has two and Newegg has three available. Personally, I would go with the Foxconn one, but I am biased for Newegg. haha
My PC has been fine for 2 and a half years now, I've never had a part overheat or stop working, but I still don't have any replacement parts. So I'm not looking for duplicates (especially since my motherboard is now out of stock and/ or prohibitively expensive), but upgraded parts still compatible with my current gpu and RAM, primarily a motherboard, as these seem to be the parts I've heard of shorting out the most. I don't need SLI or RAID, I just need something reliable that isn't huge and expensive. Hopefully if one piece has a problem it doesn't short out any others.
I think the rest of the parts are fine.
It's going to be hard to recommend anything without knowing what you currently have. Having an extra power supply on hand would be a good idea. I've only lost one motherboard in the last 15 years so mine tend to last until they're replaced.
As it appears mine is failing, I'm looking to replace my old ATI Radeon 9800XT graphics card with same product (just trying to keep this old computer going/gaming till I can finally get a new system). I've found several "new" Radeon 9800XT cards for sale at reasonable prices, but they're not made by ATI/AMD. Apparently they ARE made with ATI/AMD chips and GPU's. Can anyone please advise as to whether these cards are comparable to the original product? I was hoping to just be able to swap out the card and not have to deal with driver uninstall/reinstalls. Is this possible with these 3rd party ATI cards or do they use different drivers/software?
Any advice is appreciated!
If the brand of the replacement card is Diamond or Sapphire it's basically the same thing, think there were a few others. If it's a reference design then your existing drivers should work, really need to know the exact brand to be sure.
Hey guys, got a question that I wanted to see if anybody could answer. I'm coming to you from my PS3, because yesterday after having to "wiggle and jiggle" the power cord to get my laptop to charge, it finally crapped out. I'm pretty confident that it's the power terminal (located on the motherbored) and possibly the cord also.
To fix the issue, I'm hoping I could just buy a new, but different terminal and cord so I don't have this issue again. Ideally I'd like to get a cord like the mac, but I realize that is a long shot. So i'm hoping I can just get a good, solid cord/terminal.
My question(s) is/are can I replace the OEM power cord/terminal with a non OEM? How would I find the watt/amperage my laptop needs?
My laptop = Gateway MC7801u
What has probably happened is the solder connecting the DC in port to the motherboard has cracked. Since it is soldered to the motherboard, to fix it you will need to re-solder the connections or buy a new motherboard. There is no way you could replace it with a mac-style port (magsafe) without some serious modifications to the AC adapter and your laptop.
I need to replace the above PSU on a computer I am working on. Its standard ATX - so plenty to choose from - only problem is the mainboard is a good distance away from the PSU - so the cables need to be long .....any ideas of an ATX PSU with long cables ?
Corsair's lower end PSUs are a solid choice in my experience. I've used the Corsair CX400 a couple of times in builds and I can highly recommend it.
I had some intermittent shut downs before the power supply finally totally crapped out I have replacement supply start power a after No an HP Pavillion I No start after a power supply replacement first bought a watt supply from Tiger direct but it wouldn t fit in my case BUT I did hook it up and make sure that the computer started up and ran ok It ran fine NOW to replace that the only thing I could find that would fit was a W diablotek My problem is this Now when I hit the power button the power supply fan turns on but nothing else When I turn it off a power surge spins the cooling fan and the cpu fan The side note would be that when I was putting in the power supply the heat sinc was in the way When I pulled it out I didn t realize that the cpu came out with it I jacked up the cpu when reinstalling the sinc I bent some prongs I have replaced it with the identical cpu and still have this problem Any ideas nbsp
What was your power supply wattage that you replaced? Did you test to see if the Diablotech is functional, i.e. test it with a multimeter?
Hi peeps. just a quick question for my next purchase i hope you can help me out with. RMA's my XFX HD 4850 as it was GSODing ebuyer have offered i can purchase a new card in the price of no more than £145 what is the best card i can get my that money at the moment. i was looking at this > XFX HD 5770 1GB XXX Edition GDDR5 Dual DVI HDMI DisplayPort PCI-E Graphics Card <
But im sure they're are probably better cards out there.
But im sure they're are probably better cards out there.Click to expand...
Not at that price point, though if you can find a GTX460...
I m a bit clueless when it comes to networking but here goes Up until a few weeks ago I modem No replacement after sharing file had a happy home network Was running my No file sharing after modem replacement trusty year old Motorola SurfBoard modem into a Linksys wireless router My tower and xbox were wired to the port on the back of the linksys while my laptop wii and ps were all wireless All had connectivity Tower and Laptop could talk to each other and could share files both ways between them then my modem bit the dust Enter the Motorola SBG Mom needed a router for her place and I needed a new modem so I killed birds with one stone and bought it Mom loves her new router and I well sorta like my Motorola Everything has connectivity but my laptop and tower will not talk to each other anymore xbox was also made wireless at this point When I m on my tower and I attempt to browse the quot Map Network Drive quot I can see both computers listed under my home network name When I attempt to click on the laptop to expand it to select the SharedDocs folder I get the following error message quot newlaptop is not accessible You might not have permission to use this network resource Contact the administrator of this server to find out if you have access permissions The network path was not found quot If I attempt the quot Map Network Drive quot from the laptop I get the same message with the exception of the error reflecting my tower name I hope it s something simple like the modem itself is blocking a port or something I ll mention what seems relevant from some other threads I ve tried to understand -both machines are running xp pro sp tower is my own build lappy is AlienWare Area -both machines have file sharing network sharing checked -encryption is set to WPA wireless card can handle it cable SBG gt wireless gt laptop xbox wii ps iphone Tower PC much thanks in advance for any assistance insight i may find nbsp
see this thread, post #5
A handicapped friend of ours has an emachine W3503 with a bad motherboard. We are trying to help him get his computer back up and running as inexpensively as possible since he is living on a very low fixed income. Can this be replaced, and if so, what would I order?
Probably Not the Answer You Were Hoping For.......
The problem with replacing the motherboard in an Emachine is the extravagant price they will charge you. Also, the power supply is most probably also bad, either by virtue of it killing the board, or being killed by it. I absolutely do not recommend buying a board off Ebay, that's sort of asking to be ripped off.
Here's the specs on your machine http://www.emachines.com/support/product_support.html?cat=Desktops&subcat=W Series&model=W3503
That's pretty much bad news as well, since the Emachine in question has DDR type memory, which would likely have to be replaced with any board you might find today.
The standard treatment for this is to buy a different aftermarket board, and a decent PSU. However, the copy of Windows that came with the machine dies with the board, and would have to be purchased also.
This is representative of a type of board that would fit your chassis; http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...rder=BESTMATCH&Description=Intel+G31+&x=0&y=0 and allow you to use your CPU. These boards are about 50 bucks. A replacement Emachine board might be on the order of up to 200 dollars. The upgrade parts I mentioned can be had for about 300 dollars, including the copy of Windows. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116752 This is the OEM version, and you would need to order it with the parts.
As I said, you would also require new memory, a PSU, and a copy of Windows.
PS, The Celeron 356 in that machine is a "Cedar Mill" chip. These were the best single core Celerons (Pentium 4 type architecture) produced. (Until chips based in the new "Core 2 Duo" technology became available). They are however, less than pitiful by contemporary standards. Again, sorry if I ruined your day.
Hello to all I have an EMACHINE W that is approx years old It started the dreaded shutting off by itself problem last week I bench tested the PSU and the power at the motherboard connection and all was well and within specs While the case eMachines replacement motherboard was opened I noticed that of the capacitors next to the CPU were swollen After researching this on the net I am convinced that the motherboard is probably the culprit I know that it s a eMachines motherboard replacement peice of crap computer but I just want to get another years out of it I am in no way a computer guru and find that I understand hardware more than I do software issues My question is this I would love to replace the motherboard and the PSU to get it up and running but is eMachines motherboard replacement there another motherboard I could use instead of the high priced poor quality one that was installed I am also confused on the software issues involved I have recovery discs I received in the mail last week I had to get these because I couldn t access the recovery partition on the hard drive due to a admin password problem So if I replace the motherboard with another does that mean the recovery discs dont have the OS on them Even though it s a Vista system I have had a Windows XP proffesional disc sitting on my desk for years and never used it My neice purchased it from the college bookstore and never loaded it So all in all I admit the software thing confuses me Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated I will gladly post system specs if needed I just kept it quot general quot for now since it might be a generic answer The motherboard is a MCP SM-GM Again thanks in advance and God Bless Mike in South Carolina Sorry for the bold caps on title I cant figure out how to change it nbsp
Dead and not worth replacing, as the restore disks will likely not work.
The motherboard is a known failure, and is actually a 6 year oild board.
ASRock boards are low cost and work, as are many others from the online stores... but you also have to get the right CPU, CPU cooler, power supply, memory, for that board, and make the external plugs fit the case.
You can look at the motherboard specs on line at Directron.com, Newegg.com, Frys.com, PCMall.com, CDW.com, ZipZoomFly.com, and many others... and you will immediately see how complex the order is in matching up everything.
You are probably best off asking a local guru, High School or College Kid with a high interest in computers. Give it to them for a couple of weeks, and let them get it right for you.
The hard drive, memory, and optical drive are still good... but matching them up takes some work, and we would have to see the board setup and CPU to be sure.
I am planning to buy a new laptop this weekend and I want a desktop replacement - just tired of small screens and low performance and unfortunately I simply do not have a desk to put a high-end desktop If I was to buy a desktop it would certainly be equipped with a Core i - GHz processor While I cannot replicate such power in a notebook I am trapped in a dilemma of choosing between four cores or a high clock speed In a desktop it seems to me that such dilemma does not exist since the processors can use more power and have higher clock speeds it would be worth more to have a GHz or a GHz four-core than a GHz or a GHz dual-core But in laptops it s a completely different story The contenders are basically the Core i - m and the Core i - QM or the i - QM and the runner-up is the Core i - QM and i - QM if it is really worth it I have done extensive research on the Internet The sources are not many but it led to to some conclusions The Core i - QM GHz has cores and threads but a low clock speed GHz that can be increased up to GHz with all cores operating It can go as high as GHz with only two cores The Core i - M on the other hand has a clock speed of GHz which can be increased up to GHz with Turbo Boost using all cores Theoretically the i - QM would be a superior processor Intel has put a higher number to identify it instead of duh Four cores operating at GHz equals to GHz in the case of i - QM while two cores operating at GHz equals to only GHz in the case of M with Turbo Boost the i - QM would sum it up quad core? Desktop replacement: dual or to GHz and the i - M to GHz - still a big gap in performance In addition the i - Desktop replacement: dual or quad core? QM has MB L cache while the i - M has MB But that s just theory In real life things are a little bit different I do have a Core Duo right now and I see Windows making Desktop replacement: dual or quad core? extensive use of the two cores However I suspect that even the most advanced software are not optimized for multi-core and multi-threading processing A clock speed of GHz could be a disadvantage in this scenario especially comparing to the much higher clock speed of the i - M The i - M has a clock speed which may be GHz higher than Desktop replacement: dual or quad core? the Core i - QM and that seems to me a big difference I ve read that the i - M would be better for single-threaded or lightly multi-threaded applications due to its higher clock speed Some sources say that the i - QM would be the better choice for heavily multi-threaded apps while others say that due to the huge difference in clock speed the i - M would be the winner even in those cases There are other factors which must be taken into consideration of course The i - QM has MB of L cache while the i - M has only MB and that makes a difference - however I do not know whether this additional MB make it up for the huge gap in clock speed The i - QM also supports MHz memory while the i - M supports only MHz memory and I do not know how this will affect the performance - some sources even say this is irrelevant The i - M is a nm W processor and consumes less power than the nm W i - QM It means less heat and more battery life of course But in terms of performance less heat and less power consumption could mean that the i - M could achieve its top Turbo Boost performance more easily than the i - QM As a result it would be more likely for the less-power hungry i - M to achieve the GHz Turbo Boost performance than the i - QM to achieve the GHz I ve seem some benchmarks on the Internet In Passmark Software s website the Core i - QM scores higher than the i - M but I am afraid these numbers reflect a theoretical performance that nobody will ever get to achieve in day-to-day situations Notebookcheck has done some comparison too and it ranks the i - M in a higher position than the i - QM The i - QM scored higher than the i - M in most tests but Notebookcheck thought the i - M would be a superior processor - perhaps i... Read morehttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/desktop-replacement-dual-or-quad-core.149725/
Hello Hopefully someone could help me out with this I Black card video screen following replacement ve been pulling my hair out on a daily basis troubleshooting this issue The other day I was cleaning my room listening to Pandora on my PC From what I could remember Pandora was the only application I had open at the time All of a sudden my computer flips out and the song that was playing started skipping rapidly and my computer screen went blank Since I couldnt see the screen I had to do a hard reboot I restarted my system and it came back up asking me to Black screen following video card replacement start normally or in safe mode I started normally thinking it wasnt as bad as it really is It came to the log in screen and I entered my credentials The system came up but only one of two monitors I have dual monitors set up one Dell Monitor and one LCD TV turned on Then about minutes later it did the same thing the screen went black and I was not able to do anything at Black screen following video card replacement that time I restarted my system again and this time I started in safe mode minutes later same thing I opened my computer to clean it out and noticed how dusty it was in there I aired out all the dust I looked at the fan on my video card and it looked really dusty like the fan was too dusty to even move I took the video card out and noticed that some of the cylinoides on it were popped like it got too hot So I figured that the video card was done I went out and purchased another one a GeForce GTS GB BIT DDR PCI Expressx I installed it and now I cant even get the system to boot up All the fans go on there is still an amber light coming from my motherboard like it always has But I get a black screen nothing comes up at all I dont even know if my motherboard recognizes the new card because my monitor wont even pick up a signal when I turn on the PC the light on the monitor stays amber like their is no communication to the video card I m thinking the PC doesnt recognize the new card because I havent installed the new drivers for it yet But since I cant see the screen I cant even install the drivers The worst thing is that I DO NOT have an on-board monitor hook up to my motherboard My motherboard is an MSI P N SLI Platinum I tried pulling the card out and putting the old one back in to see if maybe I could get one more life out of it just so I could go in long enough to install the new drivers But my PC did the same thing as when I put the new card in The weird thing is that the fan that is on the card turns on the new one and the old one but there is still no connectivity going to my monitor screen is still black I dont know what to do next anyone have any suggestions I would really appreciate it Thanks in advance nbsp
Does the problem also exist in SAFE MODE?
We really need to know brand and model of computer, or configuration, and age of components to start making many suggestions.
I would want to remove every component possible, and be running some simple stuff... keeping very good notes of what attempts you have made.
I bought a refurbished motherboard and after the install it has power, but displays no video and an external monitor does not work either.
I noticed that where the lcd plugs in on the motherboard one pin was bent over touching the other.
I straightened the pin out and re plugged it in.
Is it possible that with the pin touching the other pin on the board that it fried something or is that not possible?
I was trying to help a friend and I have bite off more than I can chew here.
Or is it that I do not have a compatible board?
I have checked all the connections ribbons etc and nothing seems to be out of place
Any thoughts or suggestions outside of don't bite off more than i can chew next time?
Laptop motherboard replacement takes considerable skill and patience. Have you worked on laptop computers before? Where did you buy the "refurbished" motherboard? You were lucky that the LCD panel connector pin didn't break off. Did you take great care in placing the CPU onto the "new" motherboard and did you apply new clean thermal grease to the CPU and it's heatsink? If you can give us the motherboard part number we can verify that it is the correct part for your model laptop
I have a customer who has a Sony all in one and her hard drive is faulty and needs replacing.
I just wondered if anyone has replaced one and knows the best to get to the HD, the vibe I am getting is that it might be a return to Sony job
Thanks in advance
Download the shop manual from Sony... It is do-able if you have patience, and the right tools.
Ok so had a this machine for months and suddenly had issues with the OS on attempting to reinstall it as a fresh install it was refusing to write to the hardrive display Replacement (other issues, help) no topics motherboard, so I figured the hard drive had died Purchased new HD and encountered same issue So i figured i had a problem with the sata ports on the Motherboard Bought replacement Mother board and Installed barebones CPU fan RAM and HD using on board video Now monitor does not power up so i Replacement motherboard, display issues, (other topics no help) am unsure if i Replacement motherboard, display issues, (other topics no help) am getting into BIOS Setup Intel quad core Kingston branded RAM Original motherboard Biostar G upgraded to Biostar G Gt PCI-E video card I have replaced the motherboard and installed just the CPU fan RAM and internal speaker When starting with RAM out i get an intermitant beep which suggested it is getting to the BIOS I have tried using the on board video on the motherboard and also with the PCI video installed both give no response to the monitor The monitor works on other PCs I get no lights flashing on the keyboard ps when starting up if it is plugged in I have made sure there is no standoffs touching the bottom of the new motherboard I have removed the battery from the motherboard with Power Dissconnected and reset the CMOS jumper making sure i wait for about minutes each time Any thoughts on other possibilities I think there is a chance it could be the power supply or possibly even a dead processor I would like to try to eliminate all other options before i spend more money that i might not need to Thanks Graeme nbsp
...and suddenly had issues with the OS...Click to expand...
What were the original issues with the OS that caused you to try reinstalling the OS in the first place?
My Canon 8400F is acting like the lamp is going bad.
It works for a while when first powered on, then I get the "waiting for lamp to adjust" message and it just sits there.
I can see that the lamp is lit, but maybe it's not bright enough?
If I shut the scanner off, then turn it back on a minute later, I can get it to work for a few more scans until the lamp message comes up and won't go away.
I have noticed for the past year that I have to wait a bit longer for the lamp to adjust, so I do suspect the problem is the lamp.
Is this something I could buy, for less money than a new scanner? I know how inexpensive scanners are these days, so maybe it's not worth the trouble.
I'm sure you can, provided you know how to remove the old bulb so you can get the bulb number from it. If you go to a place such as: http://www.bulbdirect.com/, I'm sure they have what you need. If you can't figure out the bulb number, you can always contact Canon for a replacement.
When replacing this kind of high intensity bulb, don't touch it with your bare fingers. You want to avoid getting any oils from your hand on it.
Hi recently i posted in this forum that my PSU blew up from the responses i got here apparently my suggestions motherboard Replacement mobo got fried as well http www techspot com vb topic html now i am on a VERY tight budget and i can Replacement motherboard suggestions t afford to get new processor gpu etc i can only replace my psu and my mobo so i have a Radeon HD x DDR gb ram and a AMD athlon processor what mobo can i get which is the equivalent or better than my old mobo Asus M N -SLI that can support everything that i already have and also a similar PSU Also someone Replacement motherboard suggestions told me in this forum that the only way i can check if my HD and other stuff got burned is by testing them on another machine but is it possible in Replacement motherboard suggestions any way to check it without another pc i dont have any money to spend right now and i need to check if it s that i won t have to replace anything else on my pc Thanks guys my pc is burned for weeks now and i work with my pc so two weeks without working i am desperate nbsp
What is your budget?
This seems like a very decent motherboard and should suit your needs.
As for your HDD, you will need a working computer to test it.
My CPU cooler just died so I m looking for a new one the one I had came with the CPU when I bought it It s an AMD Athlon X Dual-Core Processor Socket AM I seem to have trouble finding a doable cooler though mostly because I don t know enough about the subject I think but there doesn t seem to be a lot of coolers out there anymore for AM either So far the closest thing to something useful I ve been able AM2 for Athlon replacement socket a a Need cooler help AMD 64 finding X2, to find was MASSCOOL F B H mm Ball CPU Cooler - Retail Specifications Dimensions Heat sink x x mm l x w x h VDC Fan x x mm Bearing Ball bearing Rated speed RPM - Rated power Need help finding a replacement cooler for a AMD Athlon 64 X2, socket AM2 W Max Noise level dBA Max Need help finding a replacement cooler for a AMD Athlon 64 X2, socket AM2 Air flow CFM Current A Max Connector Pin mainboard Life hours hours Application AMD Socket AM and AM CPU AMD Athlon AMD Athlon FX AMD Athlon X Dual Core Business Class-AMD Athlon Business Class-AMD Athlon X Dual-Core AMD Phenom X Quad-Core AMD Sempron AMD Opteron CPU TDP lt W Thermal resistance C W Thermal type White grease pre-applied Another website mentions AMD Socket AM Athlon X Dual Core under this coolers compatibility Do you think I can use this fan or should I look for something else and in that case does anyone have any suggestions nbsp
There are quite a few AM2 HSFs still available. But you must specify your budget and also determine whether your case will house those that are available.
Check out this page.
Hey all, New to the forum. Happy to be amongst you. I have a eMachine T234 for my daughter and it keeps shutting down.
I've read a lot here & done all the checks. Also replaced the PSU with a Dynex 400w, upgraded with a 500g HD and installed a clean copy of the OS. Vista Home 32bit.
I cleaned all fans checked temps and it still does the same. After reading all the other posts about emachines I am confident that it is crap also. But, this is my daughters and I want to fix it for her.
What motherboard can I replace the old one with that is comp/w the Athalon AMD 64 and any other saved parts? Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Mike
I have zero knowledge of eMachines so here goes.
Is the system actually a T2341 ? If so then...
Is this your board ?
If it is then your part number for a direct replacement is MBEM2124L7V2 (or LV7MM2)
According to my search it's an AMD Socket A (462 pin) motherboard of mATX (micro ATX) form factor.
I don't know where you're based- I assume from your username you're from the U.S.- so I'd check eBay and other online auctions first before trying etailers/retailers - the part is fairly old and buying new will most likely be costly.
A quick search of Socket A mATX boards brings up:
Foxconn K7S741GXMG-6L , the site linked also carried a number of DFI boards
Welcome to Techspot !
Hey guys Motherboard questions replacement Gateway Rig CPU AMD Athlon X Motherboard Foxconn C GU Motherboard Ram Speed size and sticks MB DDR Dual Channel sticks two dead either actual ram or motherboard error not sure GPU BFG NVIDIA GeForce GT OC MB PCIe PSU PC Power amp Cooling watt brand New OS Microsoft Windows XP This is my current computer The motherboard on my computer is acting kinda crazy so i need to replace it I was wondering If i can replace it with an AM AM motherboard such that i can use my current processor and eventually buy a phenom II or something Motherboard replacement questions along those lines Do these AM AM motherboard work well with either processor or is there a catch to them I realize that then I would need to buy new RAM most likely But would i have to for example reinstall the OS or is that something that doesn t matter if i just switch the motherboard Also I was wondering Motherboard replacement questions how standard the cooling unit screw are on the motherboard To see if I could also skip from buying one Motherboard replacement questions of those Also while I m at it would you buy one GB stick of memory or two GB Or is the processor too much of a bottleneck Either way I was intending to buy the phenom II processor in like a year or two Thx for the help nbsp
if you get an AM2/AM3 motherboard you wont be able to use your CPU. and yes you will need to reinstall your OS when replacing the motherboard.
Motherboard GIGABYTE GA-MA78LM-S2H $59.99
CPU AMD Athlon II X2 240 Regor 2.8GHz $56.99
RAM G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) $84.99
if this over your budget let me know
Hello all I m new here almost as new at poking around inside my computer at this point its nothing lost nothing gained I have read several hundred posts of others who also fell victim to these substandard machines An e machines label wont be on my desktop again even if its case is blotted out with whiteout Anyway enough rant I m here for your help I have an model T amd athlon failed board victim Unknowing emachine, 754/478 socket replacement, of power supply that took the motherboard with it originally a - bit Unknowing victim of emachine, board replacement, socket 754/478 Mhz gb x machine msi MotherBoard I have looked at options and due to purpose or use of it I remain torn as to the best way to replace it seems Unknowing victim of emachine, board replacement, socket 754/478 Cputopia com On Sale has a motherboard basic single core board processor and processor fan for a Unknowing victim of emachine, board replacement, socket 754/478 bit over a hundred dollars dependent on options selected they also have a box case processor board and power supply for around dependent upon how equipped while the power supply upgrade is at one page its at another No big deal about that Anyway my other option is to get a sole independent board with the same socket as my oem processor motherboard and reuse my Atlon Processor - HD - DVD-Cd and new windows program as such Now the crux of the problem is I have seen T quot s listed here and elsewhere as having come from the factory equipped as socket and processor as well as How do I know or how can I tell which one I have I need to compare performance of the T - socket to the Sempron quot its been suggested this Sempron also comes in a variety of speeds and cores some better some worse than the Atlon it is dependent on the encoded processor suffix quot No description of such is available with the advertised replacement board and case at cputopia and I certainly don t want to go down or backward in speed or performance There are no performance specs advertised with this Cputopia com replacement board case cpu fan or other optional parts available either essentially no sepec no matter what I buy of the sempron All replys will be appreciated my budget doesnt give me room for errors do it once and do it right the first time wish I had been this cautious when I bought the emachine but budget was not as bad as now come Halloween I m gonna put lipstick on it put it outside and call it a pig with a big emachine billboard Regards to all here Leo nbsp
Dude, get a grip. I know less about computers now than before I read your post.
I thought that socket 478 was Intel (Pentium Celeron), now I come to find out that it's AMD.
An AMD Sempron 3000 only comes in one speed, if it's another speed, then it has a different number.
All of the s*** you mention is beyond obsolete, so maybe it's time for a whole 'nuther computer. Please, I heartily suggest that you avoid attempting to build a machine, at least in your current state of mind.
I don't think that any of us here are really equipped to deal with the anxiety, angst, or incoherent and rambling thought patterns you have exhibited thus far, let alone what you're trying to pass off as sentence structure.
BTW, my Emachines T-5026 just reached its 5th birthday. If you'd like to check in and wish it many happy returns, (pun not intended), here's the link; http://www.techspot.com/vb/topic143315.html
I would argue that it is not really possible to be an "unknowing victim" of Emachines.
You bought it because it was cheap, cheap s*** breaks. So where's the surprise, the mystery, or the unpredictability?
O S System Windows XP Home When I tried to replace the existing Drive Replacement Install Cannot Optical CD RW with a newer DVD RW Optical Drive the Hardware manager appeared with the following message Cannot Install Replacement Optical Drive Welcome to the Found New Hardware Wizard and showed the new drive correctly as NEC DVD RW ND A It then proceeded to load the Software wizard but was unable to locate this and came up with the following message Cannot Install the Hardware The hardware was not installed because the Wizard cannot find the necessary software I visited the manufacturers site and they informed me that there isn t any special software and that the drivers on Windows should work without any problems I must mention that the original drive was not faulty but we wanted to replace it with a Cannot Install Replacement Optical Drive DVD type I also reinstalled the original drive and that works fine finding the original software straight away With the DVD refited I went through the process again with the same results and found that if I just cancelled the messages that the DVD would read any disk with no problem I looked in the Device Manager and this informed Cannot Install Replacement Optical Drive me that the drive was showing correctly and that it was working I also looked at the driver files and these were the same files as appear for the original drive and are cdrom sys imap sys redbook sys I also checked in the registry for any Lowerfilters or Upperfilters under the subkey HKEY LOCAL MACHINE SYSTEM CurrentControlSet Control Class D E -E - CE-BFC - BE There was no entries I have also tried to pull the driver files directly from the Windows XP Disc Can anyone help me to stop the messages regarding this change in hardware appearing everytime the computer is turned on nbsp
Have you tried finding updated driver files from the manufacturer website? Perhaps instead of relying on Windows' built in stuff, a newly installed version might force it to shut its mouth. I'm not exactly sure what else you can do.
See my previous post for some background on my problem.
I've come to the decision that my Dell Precision M70 needs a new video card. The card that came in the laptop is an nVidia Quadro FX Go1400. There's a used one on eBay for $125, which is pretty steep. I'm wondering if there are other options? Possibly a newer and better card for the same price or cheaper that fits in the same spot? I'm not getting my hopes up...
I started getting SMART errors on the second drive in the system (WD2000 200Gb) and decided to replace it. I now have a replacement WD3000 300Gb SATA drive. When I install that drive, the machine (Advent T9301) fails to boot - it stays on the Advent splash screen, and I do not seem to be able to get into the BIOS. If I leave power connected but disconnect the SATA cable then the machine boots. I am a little puzzled now, as I had expected it would be a simple swap out - what am I missing?
try removing the drive and then going into BIOS, once in see if it is still showing the old drive.
My inspiron 1100 HD failed. When I replaced the HD the new HD doesn't run, there is no video. At first I had some cap lock and Number lock lights to troubleshoot with, but now that has quit. The cd powers up, the battery charge light lights. I believe the video card may be the problem. If anyone has any advice with this I would be thankful.
You mean No POST? If you startup the laptop with out the hard drive installed, do you get video?
I unfortunately have a hp dv series notebook It would only load maybe outa every restarts this was related to the defective nvidia gpu that would overheat and burn out HP s extended warenty replaced the mobo once About months later video wouldnt appear dv6000 replacement, 3rd HP symptoms motherboard reapearing but i would get poor output to a external moniter as long as i did not attempt to change any video settings if i did it would black out and die Talked to HP they said its my problem now because even though it was defective HP dv6000 3rd motherboard replacement, symptoms reapearing it was past the HP dv6000 3rd motherboard replacement, symptoms reapearing extended warentee HP dv6000 3rd motherboard replacement, symptoms reapearing but they generously offered to replace their defective motherboard again for the price of I opted to buy a refurbished one from hong kong for which claimed to have fixed the issue weeks later and hours of motherboard replacement and i had a working laptop again for about days then it died again this time with the one long beep and short beeps post code and no display The ebay seller said to send it back and they d replace it So in shipping and weeks later i got another motherboard Since i knew what i was doing this time the install took maybe hours Working laptop upgraded the bios and the gpu and first cpu core were running around degrees C so I bought a notebook cooling unit dropped both numbers to around days of light use later it starts beeping at me with a dead display again Coming back to it the next day deciding whether or not to sell it for parts it booted up fine I m at a loss its obviously showing signs of failing again but should I just use it till it dies completely or tear it out and pay another if the guy will even replace it and wait another weeks Or buy some superpowered cooling unit to replace my cheap plastic one I ve even been using the silver thermal compound instead of ceramic though i doubt it would make a big deal The only thing that i could think that might be why these new ones don t work for me other than just the poor quality of the original product is that its a slightly different mobo than my original which had a geforce go and the new one has a so maybe the shells had different cooling units but my model is listed under the supported models on the ebay sellers list nbsp
Are the internal cooling fans working properly?... you replace the motherboard but the fans are a separate assembly. how many fans, one or two?
My Nvidia 8800 GTX 768mb card died this past week so now i need to replace it. My game of choice is EQ2 which I play at high seetings sometimes duel boxing toons on the same pc.
I run duel monitors one is 24" and the other is 21"
I have a 1000w power supply
Intel P4 duel core 2.66
Raptor 10k rpm 150gig hard drive
mother board is Asus P5N-E SLI
memory uh if i remember correctly is 833speed 3gigs
windows XP Home
I want a card that can easly handle duel monitors at high resoulotion plus high gaming settings EQ2 demands a lot so want something that will last for a while. this time around I do not plan on paying $550 like i did for the 8800GTX when it came out. So something between say a $100 - $300+
Thanks for your help
I'd go for a 5850 or 5870 if your budget allows for it, or a GTX 260 which can be found for 170-200.
And FFS get rid of that P4 and get a Core2 otherwise you'll be cpu limited.
Not sure if linking to other forums is allowed but you could always try this http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1421792
Hey there First off i ll post my specs as specified on the sticky guide Motherboard - Asus P T Deluxe Graphic interface - PCIe Memory - GB mhz OCZ Gold CPU - Intel i CPU Speed - stock Power Supply Make Model - Not too sure Hi-Power or something i think Watt output Amperage - w it says v to v so (if of replacement 4870 for Suggestions any) X2 i guess this Suggestions of replacement for 4870 X2 (if any) means rails Each one says Amp each Basically i bought a new system at the start of the year and Suggestions of replacement for 4870 X2 (if any) its been brilliant so far A few months ago though i started to get random freezing and crashes which i suspected to be the graphics card which was a ATI Radeon x My suspicions were proved correct when weeks ago it went insane and gave me all sorts or issues I sent it back however the supplier cannot get a hold of the card to replace so i m getting a refund of about I m normally alright at deciding what to go for but this time i m struggling to choose and was wondering if you could help The x s performance was brilliant but it was rather hot and loud when it had to work I had actaully planned to get the rd party cooler for it before it died http www quietpc com gb-en-gbp products ultragrade ac-acc-xtreme- x Looking now the choice bewteen high end cards seems to be bewtween the GTX or ATI I know the is dx ready but im really not bothered about that by the time thats big the cards for it will probably be much cheaper anyway what i m after is performance Preferably something thats better than the x and from what i can see the isnt exactly leaps ahead in some cases its less till you hit the crazy resolutions at least I m a bit skeptical about the due to a lot of issues ive read concerning it SLI problems and the like i ve been with ATI for the past few years now and havnt had issue like that at least nothing driver related but i m willimg to give it a shot if you think its worth it I should also mention at the moment i just have a quot monitor which has a maximum rez of x BUT i m planning on getting a good one at christmas which can go much higher It ll definetly be one though i dont have the setup for two so dont worry about that So its basically bewtween those or getting totally different cards and crossfire SLI ing them to match the performance but still around the same price I m on the verdge of just buying another x with that cooler and calling it a day but if any of you guys can advise me i d much appreciate it Thanks nbsp
I recommend buying this card. You will be able to run anything maxed out at any resolution upto 1920x1200, and you can throw in another one later if you feel you need the extra performance.
Your PSU may need to be replaced however; two HD 5850s will be too much for it to handle methinks, especially if its build quality is not upto the mark. Can you get any further details on it if possible?
Your other choice is to grab a GTX 295; that will rip through anything you throw at it, and it's an excellent choice for resolutions all the way upto 2560x1600. The only con I see is heavy dependence on good driver support, since SLI performance is heavily dependent on well-written drivers.
Hey Techspot guys, I am currently looking for a new computer. I was looking into building a new rig for gaming, web-browsing, word processing, etc. I have had some wonderful feedback so far, but after talking to the wife, she said she would like to get a laptop so we could use it anywhere. I am looking for any ideas on a reliable desktop replacement, without spending a fortune (Alienwares are nice, but several thousand seems a bit excessive) Do any of you out there know of any affordable gaming laptops, or a place where a decent barebones/ buildable/customizable laptop can be found? Thanks in advance
So far Alienware have been pure trouble.
You can expect to like any of this in the upper third of the price range... below that, and you don't have a good game machine that will last: Dell, Gateway, Toshiba, HP. Avoid Sony, Compaq, Alienware if you want reliability. A high end Dell is worth the money. It is the low cost laptops that are trouble for what you describe... You need quality components, multiple fans, good distribution of cooling air, and lots of memory.
Last night I booted up my computer and it Drive Hard Replacement Primary took about a minute to get past the bios screen Once it had it said something about quot error reading startup disk quot or something along those lines I Primary Hard Drive Replacement put in my Vista disk to do a restore and once it loaded the files it sat Primary Hard Drive Replacement at a blank screen for half an hour Then the hard drive started clicking so I powered off and the drive has been clicking ever since I ve thought up some options for replacing the drive and I was hoping for some input as to which I should go for RMA the drive It is should still under warranty but I have never heard anything good about Hitachi drives from people at TechSpot With this option I am afraid that it would just die unexpectedly on me again Buy a new gb drive Buy a new drive and a copy of Vista bit with a Windows upgrade At some point I will be upgrading my video card to one with more than megabytes of ram and that will cut out of my gigabytes of ram which is already crippled to gb s by Vista bit I figure it is more sensible to upgrade Windows when I know I need to do a fresh installation than to wait and have to delete my perfectly good one when I upgrade my ram or video card Buy a gigabyte budget SSD For the price of windows and a gb HDD I can get one with about mb s read and mb s write This will barely be able to hold all my software but it will easily be able to hold anything that really needs speed like photoshop or games Also I do not really have to worry about it spontaneously failing With that speed is it really worth it to increase the price of the drive by over a gb and sacrifice all the space Any better ideas or sudgestions Thanks a bunch for any input nbsp
(sort of) Good news
Well, I figured out that in fact my secondary hdd is dead, not my first, so all I had to do to get windows up and running was to fix my master boot record. Unfortunately, I hadn't had a chance to back up anything on that drive, so I lost about 7,000 photos from stop motion shorts I make, 10 full length movies, and seven gigs of downloads. I sure have learned my lesson about backing stuff up. Soon I'm going to get a 500 or so drive and an external one also. Man, my computer really hates me right now...
Dell Dimension about - years old Stock SATA gb hard drive crashed got the blue screen all the codes etc Took it to a computer place they also said the HD crashed I have bought a replacement gb SATA HD - attached the two inputs to the back one thin and ling one thin and short and all I get on boot up is a couple of chirps and the screen says quot Drive and and Not Found Serial ATA SATA- quot and repeats for drives two and three The drive is warm it s being accessed it s humming but I ve also tried a third gb drive same thing I even replaced the boot ANY won't replacement now HDD, with Crashed SATA drive original drive back in and the same thing - not even the blue screen and error codes any more Went to F set up set to auto detect all SATA drives sets to on I m computer literate but not a techy or anything Totally lost now Please help emsguy you at aol dot com nbsp
This is a double post... Why?
My wife's work laptop has a crack diagonally across the screed, it cracked simply falling on a recliner.
Can anyone give me instructions on how to change the screen? Also, where to find a cheap screen?
I'd appreciate any help.
You can try this LCD screen: http://www.papatek.com/Panel-141-Inch/Dell-Latitude-D620-LCD-Panel.html
As for replacement procedure, here is the service manual: http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/latd620/en/SM/index.htm
Go to "Display Assembly." Good luck.
I have a workstation ot home with a tyan thunder K8WE, 2xopteron 280s and a 9800GTX+.
It will not turn on; I have replaced the plug fuse, reseated all connections and memory. After replacing the fuse the light on the front of the case lights up but nothing else happens.
Going to test with a nex PSU tomorrow but I suspect the board is dead.
2 questions really - anything else I can try to get it going? And second, what would be a good replacement board if ti comes to that? It must have 2xsockets for 940 cpus and be PCI. Hopefully not too expensive and be available to buy in the UK, or be able to be shipped.
thanks for any advice,
Do you live in a humid climate... some of the circuits rust out.
Also, look at the capacitors (shaped like little barrels, and can be as few as 4 or as many as 18 on a board... Look for puffy tops, bulging sides, and brown or rust colored powder leaking from them or on the board near them. Sure sign the board has died.
Also look at the secondary chip (almost as large as the cpu chip) it rests a few inches from the CPU... there are four arms or legs coming out of that housing down into motherboard holes extending out from the corners. If any of those four legs is loose or has pulled out, the board is dead.
You won't find a lot of choice for a replacement board, but the ones still around are good.
Ok, so recently I bought an EVGA 9400 GT vid card, and with some research found out that my Dimension E310 Mobo is crap. In the BIOS I can't directly select which card to use. Also when I set it on auto detect the EVGA freezes and gives me errors and a whole bunch of crap. Anyways, I need to replace my motherboard but I am not sure what to get.
Pentium 4 Processor
DDR2 800MH Ram
The only real question I need answered is that say I find a mobo on newegg that says it supports DDR2 1200 memory standard. Will it support my 4GB of DDR2 MH800?
The only real question I need answered is that say I find a mobo on newegg that says it supports DDR2 1200 memory standard. Will it support my 4GB of DDR2 MH800?Click to expand...
For your only real question, DDR2 800 Should work on mobos supporting DDR2 1200. As for whether it supports 4GB or not the specifications page of the product you choose should answer the question.
Hi I have an old emachine i am looking into replacing the faulty mobo to keep as a back up to upgrade/replacement Mobo ? my newer system - i was planning just to reinstall XP using the original manufacturers disc but i ve read Mobo upgrade/replacement ? this might prove difficult to authenticate with microsoft Is this absolutely the case despite the mobo needing to be replaced or might i get a break if i only install a similar model brand If so can anyone please recommend any mobo s The original is - Intel Desktop Board D GGC Chipset ATI Radion Xpress i PCI slot Being an old mobo it seems pretty unlikely to find a direct replacement - so looks most probable that i will need to find an upgrade - the question is -is there any chance an ugrade might get accepted by reinstall of XP can i still find a mobo with the same similar chipset or just go for a generally better more modern mobo pcu as i will have to invest in another OS Also - as this is only intended as a backup i intended keeping as much of the old set up as possible to keep cost down so reusing things like the recently purchased x mb DDR RAM mhz - will i have to forget that or can i get a mobo cpu compatible to this RAM Any advice recommendations appreciated nbsp
Sorry , should have said the system has-
P4 processor , 3.06 Ghz /533 FSB
2 Gb DDR2 RAM (533)
Seagate Barracuda 120 gb HDD ST 3120213A ( 7200)
ATI Radion Xpress 200
New Corsair 400w PSU
When I press the power button on my Dell, the 3 lock LEDs light up, but then turn off and the whole thing goes dead without anything ever coming up on the monitor. This started after I replaced the HDD to a larger one. I put the old one back in and still have the same prob. I replaced the Mobo, still the same prob. Any ideas? Jim
Up until now (for me) the problem has been the charging.
Does the charge light come on when you plug in the adapter?
I was thinking of eventually replacing the mobo in my computer, the current dimensions are 9.6 by 9.6 and I found an amazing mobo that I might consider getting that would def. fit my new graphics card, the only problem is, those specs are 9.6 by 12, My question is would it still fit?
There is the motherboard i might want to replace with if it fits
Okay, so my sister's Sony Vaio VGN-NR120E has a damaged keyboard.
I found a place to buy the part (ebay, various other sites, etc. all sell them...) but for the life of me, I cannot figure out how the heck to get the keyboard off of the thing to replace it.
Has anyone replaced a keyboard on a Sony Vaio VGN-NR series before or knows how to do it? I'm fairly confident in my abilities but I want to avoid dismantling parts of the computer I don't need to, so any insight on how it's fastened on there would help.
sony laptops use (like most do) very small clips at the top of the keyboard, usually 3 or 4 of them along with screws from the bottom,, finding which screws is a trial, unlike Dell who mark the screws (k) for keyboard, (p) for palmrest etc etc.
Once you find out which screws they are get a credit card or similar and slide it across the top of the keyboard between the top and the case, you will feel the clips, use another card to gently lift the keyboard at the same time, be careful once done as their is a ribbon cable on a plug that connects to the motherboard, a gentle pull should pull it out if its a molex type, or else it may be a lift up the black bar type and slide the cable out, or slide a little lug on either side up (to the side etc) to remove the cable.
For those of you that were left out when the 4770 went belly up due to bad yields, the replacement card came out today if you care to check it out.
This may be announcement day, but this revision/replacment has been out for a while, and they seem to have fixed the problems.
If you want to know why read my other post :dead:
I need a decent motherboard to replace two of these ASUS boards.
I need to find out whether or not they will fit in the old cases that they came out of. I dont know how to tell if a motherboard with fit in a particular case, so I would actually appreciate someone answering this for me rather than just telling me it will fit or not.
Also, the board needs to be compatible with the old CPUs
(Intel Pentium 4 2.80GHZ/512/533) CPU Socket 478
Here is one example: Asus P4SD i865GV Socket 478 mATX Motherboard w/Video, Audio & LAN
Although this does not have AGP port and our previous setups used AGP cards.
Newegg only has this 478:
You may have luck searching EBay too
I have a Compaq Presario SR1610NX and need to replace my CDRW/DVD-ROM combo drive. One of the gears that opens and closes the drives got jammed and the drive is now useless.
The old drive is a Liteon Model SOHC-4836K but I've been unable to find one anywhere I've looked online
Does anyone know what kind of CDRW-DVD-ROM combo drive I need to buy to replace it
Your Desktop computer takes any internal Combo CD/DVD optical you want. Model doesn't matter... It is probably an IDE drive, but check this before you buy
Hey guys, I have a Gateway FX Desktop Replacement and I bought it refurbished, as suggested by another techie.. (For the price)
As soon as I bought it, it would artifact on black background. I sent it in with its 90 day refurbished warranty, and they replaced the motherboard, cpu, and integrated 9800GTS
Since then, it has operated smoothly until today. I turned her on and I noticed the same distortion on black and similar colors. I got so frustrated I shut her off immediately hoping my eyes were playing tricks. I have a third party warranty with her, but I don't know if they will be able to replace it.. ;_;
Can someone help me out? =((
Tell us more, in more detail... model and configuration first.
My graphics card ATI PRO mb is faulty and I ll be returning it to ebuyer com I would just like some insight as to what the best deals are on graphics cards are at the moment I payed for it which will be reimbursed I m looking at upgrading to this model http www ebuyer com product - ATI gb Or http www ebuyer com product - ATI Sapphire MB Any better suggestions Best price for performance is what I m looking for I play a lot of high spec games at x resolution and it Pro 512mb graphics card 2900 needed ATI for Replacement would be nice to run them as smooth as possible do gb graphics cards offer a worthy performance improvement over mb at that resolution Here are my other specs CPU Q GHZ Mobo GIGABYTE EP -DS R Mem GB PC mhz Video ------ HDD Western Digital GB SATA Sound Logitech X- - Onboard soundcard Monitor quot Samsung x OS Windows Vista Ultimate x Thank you nbsp
I would recommend this BFG GTX 275 instead. Faster than the HD 4870, factory overclocked and with a warranty coverage of 10 years provided you register the card on BFG's site within 30 days of purchase.
Hello all. I have a MSI GX630 notebook and though it has had many problems I now face a bigger one. My adapter was stolen and so I can't use it at all. The original adapter that was sent out with my notebook was a LITEON PA-1121-04. That is 19V and 6.3A like this one:
My question is where can I find a well known and trusted website to order such an adapter from? Or is the website in the link above, pchub.com, a trusted enough place to order from? I am currently in Jamaica.
I am not sure this is where this should be but it's under mobile computing so I hope I'm right in posting here.
That adapter should work fine... As far as PCHUB being good, or trustworthy, who knows. Have you been "burned" buying online before?
The DVD/CD optical drive in my Inspiron 8600 is starting to go intermittantly bad on me and I'm looking for a replacement/upgrade. Dell wants $100 for a REFURBISHED replacement. I'd like to get an upgraded drive (DVD/CD burner with Blueray), but am unsure as to what specs to look for. Newegg/Amazon/Tiger Direct/etc... have several to choose from, but I don't want to buy unless I'm relatively sure it'll work/fit in my laptop. Any suggestions or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
The existing drive is a Hitachi U5251, 24X CDRW/DVD HLDS DMOD.
I think any slim DVD drive will fit as long as it's the correct format (IDE or SATA). You could also check www.pricewatch.com
Thank you all for your posts here and help.
I have an emachines and the motherboard died when the power supply went out. I can not buy the exact motherboard from emachines. There for I lost all my data on my hard drive since emachines has a license agreement with windows that wont allow the windows that came with the machine to run with any other mothboard then the one it came with. Best thing for me to do and what I would suggest to you is take the parts you have and build another computer and buy your own windows CD. These billion dollor companies love stickin it to us.........
I have a Sony Vaio vgn-fs760. I decided to replace the battery because I was only getting 15 - 20 minutes not connected to the AC adapter. I ordered a large capacity battery (VGP-BPL2).
I installed the battery and let it charge overnight - it still reports 100% charging when I hover in the systray. When I double click on the battery in the Power Meter, I believe that it is still showing as the old battery - clicking on refresh does nothing.
sony charging systems has very large period of "tickle charge", that means, that battery will charge to reach designed capacity with very small amount of current(from around 80% till 100%), and this is normal. download mobile meter software, in "battery information" tab you'll see charging process of main battery in realtime. also it shows designed capacity, full charge capacity and current capacity that slowly rises.
I order a new screen and replaced it but get nothing. I tried the old cracked LCD and got nothing there either, so I don't think it is a problem with the screen. I also hooked up an external monitor so I know the video card is working, just no output to the LCD screen.
I think the laptop "close" switch is working because when I close the laptop it goes into hibernation mode.
What else could cause the screen to not come on?
The LCD inverter could be bad or the cable from the motherboard to the LCD panel is bad
The ATI 9800 pro video card in my Gateway FMC901X media center is displaying sporadic digital artifacts even at the initial Gateway splash screen (bootup), As best as I can determine this means some video card component is failing. Is there a modern replacement card that I can put in without having replace the whole computer? The mandatory requirements are:
Component HDTV (1080i) output
works with 250w power supply
at least as fast as the ATI 9800 pro
here are my computer specs
1. Motherboard - 901x motherboard with onboard ethernet 1 AGP, 3 PCI
2. Graphic interface - ATI 9800 pro, Hauppauge TV Tuner
3. Memory - 512mb
4. CPU - Pentium 4 pro w/hyperthreading
5. CPU Speed - ?
6. Power Supply Make/Model - 250 watt
7. Watt output/Amperage - ?
8 2 IDE HD's
9. wireless networking card
10. IDE Dvd-Ram drive
11. card reader
12 Running Vista premium
Did you ever find the replacement? I am in exactly same boat. My 901x hasn't been used for about 6 months since I moved to a new place and I am trying to resurrect it and I am getting all kinds of video atrifacts. Tried clean install and updated drivers same thing, I can boot up but after about 1 minute or screen either goes black or I gets all kind of lines and squares. I tried a new heat sink with the same effect, so looking for a new card.
Please let me know if you found a good replacement. I love the case of 901x and it is still going strong so don't want to upgrade to anything else at the moment.
I have a MSI k7 pro via kt 266a mobo with an athlon xp1600, served me well, however time has moved on.
1/ MSIs website states the max cpu my mobo can take is xp2100 (upgradeing cpu would be cheapest option). Does anyone know any different?
2/ There are some good "bargains" in mobos, as low as 80 bucks Australian, able to take an AMD 64 3200 , based on SIs chipsets. Of the chipsets available, eg, Sis , Via , nforce, are folk noticing any "real world" difference between them.
I occasionally edit and render video-rendering times not a key consideration and occasionally play Lomac and Il2 flight sims. Thats it. Apart from surf the net.
Your input appreciated. Thanks
i just bought an ecs N2U400-A MB, i already had a couple xtra processors so i didnt need to get the combo, but if I had got the combo, i beleive it came with an athlon xp 2400+ for around $100 american. so far i am very happy with the quality and performance of this new board. BTW, it is an nFORCE2 board
Im thinking of changing both the memory and hard drive on my Inspiron 8600. What kind of memory will work on my Dell Inspiron 8600 Laptop Computer? Thank you.
Dell's website should be able to give you that information. Or you can go to www.crucial.com, allow their free and completely safe online memory upgrade scanner do its work and it will a) tell you the type and amount you have currently installed as well as b) the types and amounts you can install.
Then go to NewEgg.com and buy it cheaper. They'll be many good manufacturers to choose from.
Recently the fan on my Help Power Replacement Supply W Cooler Master Power supply started to make increasingly loud noises Upon investigation I found that the fan was locking up and then fighting to spin I tried dusting down the system but had no luck in getting the fan to function properly So yesterday I went out and purchased a new W Antec Power Supply Power Supply Replacement Help to replace it I powered down my system shut off the power supply and removed the power cable Power Supply Replacement Help With an ESD strap tethered I documented the connections removed the cables and replaced the Cooler Master with the new Antec PSU I then Power Supply Replacement Help powered the box back up heard it post figured it was fine and put my monitor back on it This is where my problems begins My system configuration is as follows motherboard nforce sli vid card GTS RAM GB DDR HD two GB raptors in a RAID for my OS HD two GB k drives in a RAID for storage PSU W Antec OS Windows XP When I power the box up all fans are active the hard drives spin up the mother board posts normally and displays the quot FF quot status on the motherboards LED indicator signaling a normal boot process The BIOS runs and I see it detect my two RAID stripes and it indicates that they are healthy It gets to the boot from CD check and goes to a blank screen It does not progress any further I am not of the opinion that the old PSU somehow damaged some system components as the actual power output was fine and my system functioned as expected it was just the fan making nosies that spurred this replacement I thought maybe removing the power caused the motherboard to lose its settings and changed the boot order to boot from my second stripe which is just for storage Logging into the BIOS I confirmed this was not the case At this point I am kind of at a loss any suggestions would be greatly appreciated nbsp
The only thing I can think of is you maybe unseated something a bit when reconnecting stuff. With the power off of course go through and reseat all the power connections, data cables, and add-on cards.
Any reason you didn't just replace the fan in the PSU rather than the entire PSU? Maybe put the old one back in temporarly just to see if it works still.
Hello everyone I see there is a lot of threads about PSUs so I m hesitant about posting another one I just have a quick question My parents PC HP a y suddenly stopped working and I traced the problem to the PSU I used another PSU to verify this Well I don t have a clue what to look for in a replacement PSU besides the max power rating Replacement PSU The original PSU is Bestec ATX- - Z So I need a PSU with at least a W max out that is ATX form factor The main connector is a pin I also need at least peripheral connectors w floppy drive connector and an ATX V P connector Looking at newegg there is A LOT to choose from with many different types available ATX PSU Replacement ATX V ATX V EPS V ATX V MicroATX and MicroATX I just need some guidance Looking to spend - that seems to be the average price of the PSUs on newegg that are - W Thank you nbsp
The Bestec you are replacing is nothing special. This supply will be much better:
Yesterday I tried a procedure I've done before with no problem - a RAM upgrade on a friends PC. Usual process, disconnect cables, remove side panel, earth hands on case, remove old RAM stick (256mb) put 2 new ones in, switch on. PC powers up - nothing on the monitor (though if the cable is disconnected it says so on screen "no signal"). Drat, wasn't sure what the RAM was I was putting in (usually I do), so stick the old stick back in, start up, Same nothing on monitor. Have I fried something? Can I try sticking in a spare graphics card I have in an AGP slot to circumvent the built in graphics of what is an oldish e-machibnes Celeron PC? Any adfvice/thoughts welcome.
Have a look here: Tutorial: No POST (Power On Self Test)
Pretty sure the dispersing voltage (and possibly with addon Video card out first) will fix that, so the original Ram will work again
Ok emachine t Failed HDD replaced with identical HDD that had been formatted Hitachi Deskstar g I have the restore DVD It will load up I can see the ghost images and it loads successfully After all loaded reboot then I Help HDD replacement with can see it going into a blue screen but reboots itself I think it says missing C windows system blah blah ok Yes I tried rebuilding Help with HDD replacement the BOOTCFG Will not work Ok so Help with HDD replacement this is where I am at I believe that I need to tattoo the HDD and can do this blind folded Help with HDD replacement with an HP however emachine is being stubborn I can not find any information on this whatsoever its like a black hole of information to find the iso tattoo program for emachine Can anyone in here point me in the right direction to tattoo Flash so that the restore disk will work properly Yes I could reinstall a new OS but its a friend and he can t afford it right now You know how it is when your friends come to you and need a favor next thing you know its eating every minute of your life away Thanks x nbsp
Your eMachine T2984 is a high failure rate motherboard... well in excess of 60% after two years... Your problem could easily be caused by the eMachine motherboard failure. Your hard drive that came in the eMachines is likely good, as is the cpu, cpu fan, modem, and optical drive. But the motherboard and power supply are of such high failure rate that you will need to test them thoroughly with a power supply tester... and trying your hard drive and other components in another board.
Found this subject on the emachine motherboaerd on a search. Have a T2245 that the motherboard has gone bad. It's the imperail GL VE 20021218 mobo just wanting to know what would be the good replacement mobo would be for that. Any suggestions?
Remember that the board you use must accept the CPU of the one in your failed eMachine board.
The hard drive is likely good, but the Windows on it will detect that the motherboard has changed, and then it will shut down. Sometimes the eMachines recovery disk will work if you run it in repair mode, or if you run a full new install, but usually not on that T2245 model. It is designed to seek out the code on the eeprom on the motherboard to verify that it is allowed to run a repair or install on the new equipment. So you may have to buy a new copy of Windows XP. Your memory will be good, but the power supply will not be good, or in the rare case when it is good, it may not have enough power for the new motherboard.
So expect to buy a new motherboard, a new CPU heatsink and fan, thermal paste, and a windows disk.
Or just buy a decent rebuilt Dell or HP or Gateway, and an external USB enclosure so you can rescue the data on the old eMachines drive and move it to the new or used drive. It will cost you less than the replacement board, power supply, and Windows.