I have a Dell vostro 1220. I recently upgraded from XP 32 to 7 64. Everything is working fine except the bluetooth adapter. The drivers are installed, it appears in the device manager but not in Control Panel > Network and Internet. I've tried different bluetooth stack software but the problem seams to be with the hardware. It just won't switch on.
I did some hardware upgrades as well more ram and HDD to SSD, all working fine. OS install went well, back up was fine. I'm out of ideas other than I broke it when opening up the laptop. I hope this isn't the case.
I recommend downloading and running Reimage. It's a computer repair tool that has been proven to identify and fix many Windows problems with a high level of success.
I've used it in the past to identify and fix everything from blue screens (BSOD's), ActiveX errors, corrupt files and processes, dll/exe/sys errors, recover lost memory, Windows update problems, defragging, malware removal etc.
You can download it direct from this link http://downloadreimage.com/directdownload.php. (This link will automatically start a download of Reimage that you can save to your computer.)
Quote: Originally Posted by nyler
I have a Dell vostro 1220. I recently upgraded from XP 32 to 7 64. Everything is working fine except the bluetooth adapter. The drivers are installed, it appears in the device manager but not in Control Panel > Network and Internet. I've tried different bluetooth stack software but the problem seams to be with the hardware. It just won't switch on.
I did some hardware upgrades as well more ram and HDD to SSD, all working fine. OS install went well, back up was fine. I'm out of ideas other than I broke it when opening up the laptop. I hope this isn't the case.
Welcome to Seven forums.
Please let me know which wireless/bluetooth network card you have on the system. You need to update the application and driver for the system.
Let us know the model so we can provide you the exact link to get it updated. Check this video which would be helpful in updating all the drivers:
Updating Dell Drivers
Kindly update your system specs here by following this.
Keep us posted with the results so we can advise you further.
Something like this but with a thin male connector. I need it to connect flash drives to a usb port where there's little space available around the usb port because the ports around are busy (happens in MacBook air for example).
I think you're talking about a USB to Lightening converter
Hi everyone A few days ago I replaced my cpu motherboard and hdds on my system OLD System main components Case Antec v Cpu i Mobo Asus onboard realtek mobo low crackling) bk volume (very ud3h sound ac1150 issue - and Gigabyte p x d-e RAM corsair vengence gb x GPU Zotac GTX Boot drive Intel Gigabyte ud3h bk mobo - realtek ac1150 onboard sound issue (very low volume and crackling) gb ssd Win HDD WD TB black New System main components Case Antec v Cpu i k Mobo Gigabyte z x - ud h-bk RAM corsair vengence gb x GPU Zotac GTX Boot drive Samsumg evo gb ssd Win HDD WD Gigabyte ud3h bk mobo - realtek ac1150 onboard sound issue (very low volume and crackling) TB black I was able to clone the ssd and hdd samsung migration for ssd and Easeus todo backup for hdd Initally I had some driver conflict when I Gigabyte ud3h bk mobo - realtek ac1150 onboard sound issue (very low volume and crackling) booted up the computer on the new mobo I managed to uninstall all the old drivers and then used the driver cd to install the mobo drivers and even updated all of them to the latest version I The conflict I m still having is with the back panel audio for the onboard sound I get very low volume and and crackling at certain frequencies tried on both my generic creative speaker and Audio technical headphones When I m plugging in the speaker into the green port and have it plugged in half way or accidentally touch the jack to the I o plate I get really strong loud static noise Here is the list of solution that I tried with no success Updated the Realtek HD Audio Manager app I e the one installed from the driver cd to the latest one Used DPC latency checker and it is showing all greens didn t test it for more than a minute though should I be doing something while the app is on to test for interference Installed Generic Realtek driver for ac codec Disabled C E and EIST in the bios Played with the equalizers on Realtek HD Audio Manager helped to reduce bit of static but its still there and the volume is still very low Disabled all line in devices Checked audio with a ubuntu live cd and the problem still persists does this indicate a hardware issue What I find strange is that my front panel that is connected to the HD audio pins on the motherboard works fine with the same speaker and headphones I still have some more solutions I need to test out like Update the bios currently on F version the latest is F I have a spare asus xonar dg PCI so will try to install it and test if audio will works fine But this is not a permanent solution as I only have one PCI slot which I m using for my wireless card adapter Edimax g Run Memtest can this ever be a problem for sound related issues Driver Sweeper I believe I have properly manually uninstalled all the mobo drivers but going try this app to be sure Can someone please point me in the right direction on how to solve this This is the first time I m installing replacing a mobo and cpu so should check if there is a wiring issue when I replaced all the parts back into the case Please let me know if more information is need to help resolve this I have a few more days left incase I have to RMA the mobo so any pointers would really be helpful before I decide to send it back if at all TIA Sreejit S nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/gigabyte-ud3h-bk-mobo-realtek-ac1150-onboard-sound-issue-very-low-volume-and-crackling.217321/
To start off my laptop is an Asus G VW-AS The wireless network adapter is an Atheros AR WB-EG The issue I m having only starts when I play an online game It s not a specific one it happens with all my games After about a few matches I will begin to experience terrible lag spikes Ranging from - ms sometimes even going up to over Usually the spikes are permanent I will jump to around ping and hover in that general number with it occasionally sliding back down to my normal only to immediately spring back up again After this begins to happen any application I use that uses internet internet browser skype etc also lags is severely slowed down This lag is never experienced on any other system using our wireless internet which makes me believe it is in fact my laptop s wireless adapter that is the problem Doing a windows troubleshoot on the adapter DOES fix it but it only fixes it for about to minutes and then I begin to lag adapter network Problems with wireless again Also the troubleshooter seems to only be able to fix it once If I try to troubleshoot the adapter again after already fixing it before that way the troubleshooter will tell me that it couldn t find anything wrong Manually restarting the adapter only works once as well Restarting the computer does not help the problem If the laptop is shut down for a few hours and started back up the adapter will work properly as long as I do not start a game Could anyone help tell me how to stop this from happening Do I need to get a new adapter or is there something I can do for the current one nbsp
Are you sure it is not an issue with your router? Also I dont know where to get Atheros drivers other than from the manufacturer (vaio, lenovo, etc) website. There are no official drivers
Hello I am new to building the pcs so I am afraid I may have fried mine I really am pry I did not but this is what happened I finish tower Power will not work button My the pc and My tower Power button will not work when I turned on the power supply the power button on the motherboard glowed so then I pressed my tower button and nothing worked so then I re setup he F PANEL cords u know the pwr switch and all that jazz turns out it was set up wrong so I put them in right and tried to turn on the computer again the power button on the motherboard turns on but not my towers power button and so my pc will not officially turn on I am guessing and I am worried that I may have fryed my pc because when I took out the f panlle cords I realized my pc was still on and turned it off immanently and I am afraid that may have fryed the motherboard if anyone can help me it would be wonderful I am freaking out and have no Idea what the problem thank you for reading P S My tower button does not making a clicking sound when you push it I am not sure if that normal or it is broken or somthing it just doesnt make any click sounds nbsp
You could have a defective power switch on the PC case. Test this by using the reset switch as a temporary power switch. The power switch and the reset switch are the same for practical purposes except, of course, the size of the button (on most cases). If the reset switch works and is able to start the PC, then you know the power switch is defective.
I recently bought a Windows DVD to put it on the new PC I'm building for my mom. That PC has troubles with the DVD drive itself (stupid motherboard doesn't have IDE..), so I figured I'd set up a bootable USB to install Windows before the adapter arrives. Problem is, the installation DVD isn't playing on my drive (I tried another DVD with a movie on it before, so I don't think its my drive). I brought it to a PC shop and for them it worked fine, even though its quite scratched on the back (I guess the person selling those DVDs doesn't know how to ship them properly) I didn't wanna pay 20 bucks for them copying the DVD, even though I'll probably end up having to do that.
Any ideas what the problem is, or what I can do? I'm not sure if the DVD will work in my moms drive either..
I have an Aspire one NAV50 with Windows 7 starter.
One time, when I turned it on, The icon for wireless connection doesn't appear anymore. Every time I try troubleshoot it, it would just say that there is an ethernet cable unplugged. And so, I connected it into the ethernet cable and it works fine. But when I tried it again on the wireless connections, it doesn't locate to any wireless connection.
I've tried the ff on my laptop:
scan the laptop with MalwareBytes
by the way, last night, when I turned on again the laptop, the wireless connections can already be found. However, after few minutes, it went back to being unlocated again.
I had doubt the Starter supports the Wireless connecting but since you say " the wireless connections can already be found.", so probably it's possible.
In this case and at the moment the thing I'm thinking about is the driver. Try to update its driver for wireless connecting. (You've said the 'update', but update of what?).
hi there my wireless through cable work will not My only ethernet internet internet was My internet will only work through ethernet cable not wireless running fine until yesterday when I tried to connect to the internet the message quot windows can t communicate with the device or resource primary dns server quot came up I followed all methods on this website http answers microsoft com en-us w -b d ec fae but none of them worked for me I then returned my laptop to factory settings in the hope it will work but that didnt not work I then realised it works through the ethernet cable but not wireless I ran ipconfig all with my ethernet cable in and this is the result SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME THANKYOU Windows IP Configuration Host Name Nida-TOSH Primary Dns Suffix Node Type Hybrid IP Routing Enabled No WINS Proxy Enabled No Wireless LAN adapter Wireless Network Connection Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Realtek RTL CE Wireless LAN n PC I-E NIC Physical Address D -DF- A-EB- -B DHCP Enabled Yes Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Link-local IPv Address fe d fccc e c eb Preferred IPv Address Preferred Subnet Mask Lease Obtained October Lease Expires October Default Gateway DHCP Server DHCPv IAID DHCPv Client DUID - - - - -EB- A- A-B - -F -D - -E DNS Servers NetBIOS over Tcpip Enabled Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Realtek PCIe FE Family Controller Physical Address B - -F -D - -EF DHCP Enabled Yes Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter isatap EEB-B - C-AC - CEB F Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes IPv Address ef fb affc eb Pre erred Link-local IPv Address fe affc eb Preferred Default Gateway NetBIOS over Tcpip Disabled Tunnel adapter isatap DF D AB- BF- FA - CB -DFA C Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes nbsp
There may be an issue on the ISP side or router side since restoring to defaults didnt help. Or it could be an issue with the network adapter. Or it could be an issue with the firewall.
Try downloading running these tools (download via ethernet, run on wireless): Network Fix-It Tool (right click on the internet bars on the task bar in the bottom right hand side of the screen, and click "troubleshoot network...") and Firewall Fix-It Tool.
Did you install anything on your PC before this happened? Did Windows install any updates?
Try disabling your AntiVirus. That may be the issue. I doubt it though.
Tell me if any of these solutions help.
I have a Sony Vaio VPCEH15EN laptop & the OS is Windows 7 home basic. I have a wifi router which is of TPLINK.
The wifi won't connect to my laptop but it works fine on my mobile..it would only start working when I use the ethernet cable. I never had this problem before. I have tried everything ..I also tried the winsockfix.bat but all my efforts have gone in vain..I just don't know if the wifi router is faulty or the modem of my ISP...Please help me solve this problem.
I have solved the problem by myself. To do this, first you have to disconnect your Ethernet cable from your laptop and follow the steps: Start>Control Panel>Network and Sharing Center>Manage Wireless Networks and remove all wireless connections by right click on it and select Remove network from the drop down menu. After doing this, close the windows and scan for the Wi-Fi networks. Click on the available network and select connect. After a while, you will be asked to give a password for your Wi-Fi connection. Type the password and click on connect button. And now will be connected to your Wi-Fi network via wireless.
May be it will help you.
MD. MAHMUDUL HASAN
Hi! I don't know much about this place but there's a problem with my laptop and I don't know how to solve it. My laptop won't connect to the wifi anymore but it works perfectly fine with the ethernet cable. I appreciate it very much if you tech geniuses could help me out. THANK YOU!
Are there any yellow (!) in the device manager?
Hi guys I ve been researching and trying to days to get this to work with no avail so I decided to post here for some help as doesn't Ethernet connected Wifi work cable. using working when only Internet I see this community is really active We ve got different laptops here and none of them can connect to the wifi anymore it suddenly stopped working for the last whole week We can connect to the internet through ethernet cables though We only use one at a time if ethernet then wireless is disabled and vice versa Here is a copy of the ipconfig all Windows IP Configuration Host Name PeterMai-HP Primary Dns Suffix Node Type Hybrid IP Internet only working when connected using Ethernet cable. Wifi doesn't work Routing Enabled No WINS Proxy Enabled No DNS Suffix Search List moolahd local Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection Connection-specific DNS Suffix moolahd local Description Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller Physical Address AC- - D- B-ED-F DHCP Enabled Yes Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Link-local IPv Address fe ac a d b Preferred IPv Address Preferred Subnet Mask Lease Obtained Monday October PM Lease Expires Tuesday October PM Default Gateway DHCP Server DHCPv IAID DHCPv Client DUID - - - - - -FB- -AC- - D- B-ED-F DNS Servers Primary WINS Server NetBIOS over Tcpip Enabled Wireless LAN adapter Wireless Network Connection Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Broadcom GN b g n x Wi-Fi Ada pter Physical Address -ED-B - D- -FD DHCP Enabled Yes Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Link-local IPv Address fe c f e e b fc f Preferred Autoconfiguration IPv Address Preferred Subnet Mask Default Gateway DHCPv IAID DHCPv Client DUID - - - - - -FB- -AC- - D- B-ED-F DNS Servers fec ffff fec ffff fec ffff NetBIOS over Tcpip Enabled Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft to Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter isatap optusnet com au Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter isatap moolahd local Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter Reusable ISATAP Interface CE FC E - F - C C- D - D EBEC Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter isatap DDFAF D- B- -AA A-DBE BA F Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter Reusable ISATAP Interface E ED - - A -BB -FB FA F F Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes And here is a copy of the route print Interface List ac d b ed f Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller ed b d fd Broadcom GN b g n x Wi-Fi Adapter Software Loopback Interface e Microsoft to Adapter e Microsoft ISATAP Adapter e Microsoft ISATAP Adapter e Microsoft ISATAP Adapter e Microsoft ISATAP Adapter e Microsoft ISATAP Adapter e Microsoft ISATAP Adapter e Microsoft ISATAP Adapter IPv Route Table Active Routes Network Destination Netmask Gateway Interface Metric O... Read more
You have an IP on your LAN, but none on your wifi. Check your router to make sure DHCP for wifi is turned on and you have enough available addresses.
Hey guys... I just got a new EVGA GTX650 ti boost superclocked. I just put it in and I was not getting any signal to my monitor. I tried VGA, HDMI and DVI. Nothing worked and when I took it out to try booting with my integrated graphics, I didn't get any signal to my monitor. All of my connections and wires are connected properly, my power supply is the right voltage and has enough power to support my graphics card. My hard drives are spinning but I cant access my BIOS. I have tried everything that is common. I know my graphics card is not defective and im thinking that it might be my motherboard. Any suggestions?
You were using integrated graphics before the discrete card? It's strange that your onboard isn't working if it was before hand. Usually it's just a overlooked cable or something plugged in the wrong place. Did you make any changes to BIOS? Some boards require you to change the primary display adapter to PCIE or onboard. Maybe a BIOS reset will help the situation. I doubt there is any issues with the MOBO itself. I suggest stripping the build down to nothing but the bear essential components for operation. This way you can isolate the issue a lot easier.
Hi every one
I need your help gays
I saved some files in my USB but when I explore my USB the files are not appear
it shows that usb is empty
I do not know what to do
Have you tried the same USB on a different pc? If not, do so.
I'm trying to connect my PC and my Asus Zenfone 2 with Bluetooth. When I use the "add a device" wizard on Windows 8.1, my mobile phone is detected, but when I try to add it I get: "Windows doesn't have a network profile for this device".
Also, when I try to detect my computer with my mobile phone, itīs not detected.
I'm using a Trust USB 2.0 dongle Bluetooth adapter (the little one you insert on the usb port) that came with a keyboard and mouse Bluetooth set that I used. Could that dongle be designed only for the bluetooth keyboard and mouse set?
The Bluetooth device seems fine as it already detected your keyboard and mouse. However, your phone seems not supported with the current Bluetooth device and you might need to take another look.
I am considering purchasing a MSI ATX DDR3 2133 Motherboard 970 for my new computer build, and heard from somewhere that it is not compatable with windows 7? Is this true?
Where did you hear that? It will run Windows 7 just fine.
My friend's USB flash memory has data (its drive shows that there is data in it) but when I double click on it to open it and see the contents, it doesn't show any folders and files! I did the following works:
1- I scanned it by my updated kaspersky AV. but no threat found
2- Scanned by windows defender tool. same result!
3- scanned by malwarebytes anti-malware. same.
4- cmd (run as administrator) -> go to its drive (e.g., H:, when H is my flash drive) and typing the attarib -s -h *.* /s /d command. It could not to show the data.
All my attempts faced failure till now.
Can anyone help me please?
Go to cmd (run as administrator) -> go to its drive (e.g. H: where H is my flash drive) and type the attrib -s -h *.* /s /d
Now flash will show the data.
Your attrib spelling was wrong correct them
As I don't go menu and Monitor's won't buttons the work away am writing this I have this blue square on the screen with all the settings for this monitor Whichever button I press on the monitor the menu won t go away Not even the power button works so that means I can Monitor's menu won't go away and the buttons don't work t disable Monitor's menu won't go away and the buttons don't work the monitor Unplugging and plugging it back in doesn t work as soon as the picture appears the menu appears Monitor's menu won't go away and the buttons don't work as well Let me give you a bit of a history as it might help determine the cause About a month ago my old monitor monitor started behaving weird It started turning itself off every now and again Sometimes few times a minute Every time it turns off it turns back on with the splash screen saying quot BENQ quot and everything I had no idea why it does that I tried pressing the buttons on it to go into the menu but every button seemed to shut it off and every button seemed to turn it on So I gave it to a family friend to try and fix it He said that the quot control board quot started dying and that he doesn t have a spare one or something like that He then gave me a spare monitor of his monitor until I can buy a new one or fix monitor So I took monitor from him and sent monitor to the shop so they can try and fix it About a week passes and the shop calls and says that they fixed monitor I go and pick it up and when I came home I unplug monitor and plug in monitor monitor was working perfectly then Monitor worked for about minutes and started shutting down again And when I tried using the buttons they wouldn t work again Same thing as last time So I return it to the shop and tell them that it doesn t work That was about a week and a half ago They still didn t fix it The problem is now the monitor also started having problems It doesn t turn off yet but the menu buttons don t work Power button doesn t work Nothing And on top of that the menu won t disappear from the screen As I am typing this there s a menu on top of everything Every now and again the menu will switch to a different option like quot brightness quot quot auto adjustment quot and such like the buttons are being pressed Now I am wondering could it be that my PC is quot breaking quot these monitors Is there a way for a PC to physically damage a monitor What should I do in that case Also I should say that ever since monitor died and after I installed monitor my PC has been getting blue screens of death It hasn t happened once in years since I got this PC and it started after I got monitor I don t know if that s something that s important but there it is If you need more info please let me know I am trying to figure out what is happening and every bit of help is appreciated Thank you nbsp
No one has any relevant information?
I need some professional help.
R9270x BY XFX
NOW, without the graphics card the computer runs fine. When I install the ddriver's for the r9 it will work, but eventually the display driver stopped working makes its way back.
I've ran all diagnostics on the memory and checked temperstures which all turned out to be fine.
I sent the card into xfx and they returned it saying it's fine.
WTF DO I DO MATES. I think it's the card....but that's just me.
I have a Gateway NE56R and ever since I updated to windows 8.1 I cannot use the internet at home even though it says it is connected to WiFi, but it works at other places. Please help asap
As the title implies I m currently having issues the first major issue is that my PC is turning on off and which the second is that my other hard drive suddenly up and Issue Invisible & HDD Computer Grounding disappeared on me My computer started to turn on and off on me for no reason while I was trouble shooting my initial problem of the HDD when I fiddled around inside my case Eventually ripping everything out of the case and quot card-boarding quot the motherboard which it worked and stayed on and as I gradually put everything back together it was all good until I sat the motherboard back onto the brass copper studs that sits inside the frame and screwed it in At that point my computer started to turn on and off again which lead me to believe it s some manner of a grounding issue Computer Grounding Issue & Invisible HDD I have no clue on what to do at this point about going about this should I just get a new case made of plastic My current full tower case is all steel While I was watching a movie which was stored on my second hard drive is started to freeze lag repeat all that good stuff on me It froze my computer up completely and I was force to hard reset the computer when I booted my PC back up I found that my second hard drive had up and vanished on me So I went into my bios and saw it quot working quot I switch to ACHI to see if it ll make a difference but I got a BSoD so I left it at IDE At that point my computer gave me the option to quot repair windoe files quot or start normally Both options made my computer get stuck on the loading screen thankfully safe mode boots up fine So what could had caused this and how may I go about fixing it nbsp
I also swapped out the PSU with a spare I had lying around, didn't get any power from it so I reused my old one. Now I don't have power from that one either. So besides the "missing" HDD and a suddenly a "no longer working PSU "I'm assuming the motherboard is bad, opinions?
Neither my keyboard or mouse are working on any of the 7 USB ports on my computer. My mouse was initially working, but I read somewhere if you delete the keyboard drivers you can reinstall them and it will work again. BUT when I was doing that I stupidly uninstalled my mouse driver so now NOTHING works. I can't try if it works in safe mode because my keyboard doesn't respond when I hit f12 during boot up.
When I plug in the mouse or keyboard, I get a window that pops up asking if I want to install the hardware, but it's impossible for me to do anything because my mouse and keyboard don't work! If anyone has any ideas I would greatly appreciate the help. Thanks!
First I would try to find a different working keyboard because you should at less be able to boot into safe mode because the drivers don't even load until windows start loading.
Ever since I setup a KVM switch to have 2 computers sharing 1 monitor/keyboard/mouse, I have had monitor problems.
There is a subtle but noticeable wobble/ wavey-ness thing happening across the screen when connected to one of my computers (my AMD).
Also, my display (with AMD computer) has a stretched horizontally look. I have tried different screen resolutions but they all give this stretched look which I didn't have before.
And my AMD used to give 1920 x 1080 as an option for max resolution, but this is now capped at 1600 x 1200.
Please help as this is very annoying & looks awful. The specs of the KVM switch say "Max. Resolution: 1920 x 1440. Bandwidth: 200MHZ"
My AMD computer:
Windows 7 64 bit SP1.
AMD Athlon II X4 620 2.6GHz.
Video card ATI Radeon HD 4350
What is the make and model of the KVM switch you purchased? I have tried lower quality switches at my work and found similar results. Ended up having to get one of the more expensive / better brand ones that solved the issues.
My Dell has been acting up pretty recently (6 months old and still under warranty), and the battery does not charge past 80%. Once it get's near the 80% charge, it immediately fills up to 100%.
I've remembered using the laptop for more than 6 hours under moderate use but now it barely lasts 2 hours.
Please give me some advice because I'm really dependent on this laptop.
You have 6 or 8 cells battery. If 6 it's normall. Should work about 2-max 3 hours when new. On 8 cells could work till 5 h.
Producers give only 6 months of warranty on bateries
Recently my Gbps has taken a serious nosedive I was around Gbps then it dropped dl Adapter 0.84Gbps Network The other computers on the network are getting Network Adapter 0.84Gbps dl great speeds it s just my computer My computer is running fine It s just the connection speeds This isn t just happening on WI-fi it s also happening when I plug in the Ethernet cord My network adapters are Broadcom n Network Adapter Microsoft Kernel Debug Network Adapter Qualcomm Atheros AR PC-E Gigabit Ethernet Controller NDIS They are all up to date And I use Avast internet security Also I ve cleaned the cache in both firefox and chrome browsers I ve also removed all but add block add-ons I m using AARIS modum router through time warner cable And again the Network Adapter 0.84Gbps dl other computers are getting great speeds always up of Gbps I even checked my Mom brand new computer which is getting upwards of Gbps I ve called TWC they sent someone the wires were a bit loose and it fixed everyone s laptop but mine Please help I m clueless here Here is the Broadcom n Network Adapter settings - auto mhz - Disabled n Preamble - Auto Antenna Diversity - Auto AP Compatibility Mode - Higher performance Bandwidth capability - b g MHz Bluetooth Collaboration - Auto BSS PLCP Header - Auto Short Long BT-AMP - Enabled Disable Uon Wired Connect - Disabled Fragmentation Threshold - IBSS g tm Protection Mode - Auto IBSS Mode - b Only Locally Administered MAC Adress - not present Minimum Power Consumption - Enabled Mixed Cell Support - Disabled Power Output - Priority amp VLAN - Prioroity amp Vlan Disabled Rate - Best Rate Roam Tendency - Auto Roaming Decision - Auto RTS Threshold - Shorti GI - Auto WMM - Enabled WZC IBSS Chaneel Number - MHz XPress TM Technology - Disabled nbsp
Also I recently installed windows 8. I've tried all sorts of things to get it to work. Still no luck.
I recently got this amazing p monitor for my custom rig and I love it Well most of it There is this problem with the backlight where when the monitor turns on after a while of inactivity the backlight turns on Monitor Backlight ASUS an with Issue VK-248h for a split second Issue with an ASUS VK-248h Monitor Backlight then suddenly goes very dim Issue with an ASUS VK-248h Monitor Backlight The brightness setting Issue with an ASUS VK-248h Monitor Backlight is unchanged kept at a solid yet it s a quarter as bright as it should be I can go into the menu and change the brightness and I can tell faintly that it does adjust but never up to the proper level To remedy the issue I repeatedly turn the monitor off and on until the display finally lights up properly and it stays that way for the entire time I am using it At the start of the session in which I write this post I had to do this at least times before it worked so I finally decided to really look into this problem It seems this is a unique issue as I found absolutely no matching posts on the interwebs by searching with the all-mighty Google Search Is there anyone that can provide some insight as to why this occurs and or how to fix it Thanks for your time nbsp
New theory: Bad capacitors... somewhere. Possibly power supply
After a day at work, observing some coworkers working on used LCD TVs (and working on one myself), I now understand quite a bit more about such things.
I had removed the display from my setup and left it on the floor for a few days. Today, I decided to try it again. The backlight started up perfectly fine, surprisingly. The ASUS screen showed for a couple seconds, then went off, as normal. Then, when it's supposed to activate the selected display input, it shows the screen for just long enough to get half a frame drawn, then goes completely black. Turning monitor off and on repeatedly, and trying different input methods, gave same result. I got it to work once, but at that time the backlight had gone too dim again.
I think now I might know how to fix it, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to take the dang thing apart! Lol.
Have a nice pair of Bluetooth headphones and trying to get them hooked up to the sound of my older TV. Is there some kind of adapter you can buy to to hook up to the audio out of the TV so I can connect the 2 via Bluetooth? I just don't wanna pay for another pair of headphones. I just want the reciever.
I'm working on a XP machine. I think its slowness when installing apps (and also when its installation) is because of the HDD issue. Maybe there are bad sectors. I know that using C:\ drive properties -> tools, I can test the C: drive for bad sectors. But how to see the results!? It's wants me to restart the PC. Is there any log file after finishing of the test?
Is there any better way to find and solve the issue please?
The better way is to run a true diagnostic utility like SeaTools. Run a Long Generic test on the drive and see what happens (this will take a while).
I built my desktop in Sept These are the specs Motherboard Intel BOXDH CLB LGA Intel H HDMI SATA Gb s USB ATX Intel recognized doesn't HDD get Motherboard Power Supply RAIDMAX HYBRID RX- SS W ATX V V EPS V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready Modular Power Supply New HDD doesn't get recognized Version with Build-in LED Fan On Off Switch Graphics Card GIGABYTE GV-N - HDD doesn't get recognized GI GeForce GT Fermi GB -Bit DDR PCI Express x HDD doesn't get recognized HDCP Ready Video Card CPU Intel Core i - Sandy Bridge Quad-Core GHz GHz Turbo Boost LGA W Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics BX I Last night Feb th I was peacefully watching tv on it I shut it down before I slept Next morning I wake up and turn it on And my baby doesn t turn on She won t respond to my fingers Fans aren t spinning like nothing So what did I do -I opened her up I saw the green light on the mobo was on This gave me a hint that PSU is Okay -Checked if everything was connected even though I haven t moved the computer anywhere lately so I don t imagine anything to get loose Seemed all good -Then I wanted to test the PSU I unplugged the PSU from Mobo the pin connector Only top fan was connected to the PSU Then I carefully performed the paper clip test The top fan ran Woo This makes me thing that PSU is still okay -So I connected it to the rear fan component on the mobo I did not connect the pin connector So at this point I still have the paper clip in the PSU plug I did the test again Only the top fan ran Rear fan did not run Top fan is directly connected to the PSU Rear fan is connected through the mobo -Now I am not sure if the rear fan is supposed to run if the connector aren t connected If the rear fan should run regardless if the pin connected as long as PSU is directly supplying to the rear fan component on the mobo then I would say that my mobo is bad If I need the pin connector to run the rear fan along with the direct connection from the PSU to the component then I would say my PSU is not giving enough power -So I went on got a PSU from best buy with same watts to see if it turns on It did Therefore my old PSU wasn t producing enough energy However now my HDD is not being recognized The BIOS says no Hard Disk recognized All my SATA cable is connected to my PSU I feel my SATA cable that connects HDD to mobo is bad -I connected PSU directly to HDD and still not luck I did this to find out if the connector that comes out of HDD had problems which I think it doesn t Less probable -This is why I think my SATA cable from HDD to mobo is bad as it s not giving good connection I hope my HDD didnt go bad I am trying to see if I can find anyone to check if my HDD will work on their desky -Any Suggestions nbsp
A SATA cables are cheap, go get one and try that.
Hi All I have a strange one here I connect to the net via my Belkin router nothing special about the setup of the router My main pc however I have configured to use a static IP for downloading purposes I have used the same IPV settings for a number of years with no dramas Last night I switched on the PC and connected to the Internet but after a few minutes I got the no internet connection symbol yellow triangle I am connected via networking plugs also so tried the see if they were the issue but they are fine I ran the windows troubleshoot wizard and it came back with Your computer is trying to use a DNS server that is incorrect or doesn t exist I removed my static IP details and tried to connect by obtaining IP details automatically but this had no effect I used my phone s internet connection DNS Issue to google this DNS Issue and was advised to try which I then reinput my static ip details but this time putting the google dns settings and I can connect to the net The wierd thing is that my wifi will not connect to the net my DNS Issue question really is do I need to update the DNS setting in my router in order to get wifi working or should I be flushing DNS on pc the wifi is for my Ipad so not a lot DNS Issue I can do on that to connect Making my brain ache a bit sorry for the long post any help or advice would be appreciated Arvon nbsp
Yes, you can set the DNS addresses in the router manually and then every device connected to that router will inherit your settings when they are configured to you DHCP
My PC with windows 7 is the only computer with issues in the house. Ethernet works perfectly but wifi doesn't even when I don't have the ethernet hooked up. The wifi says it is connected but browsers, steam, and Itunes don't work. I have Bitdefender A/V and already tried uninstalling it, no change. I also uninstalled steam and Itunes with still no change. I even uninstalled and reinstalled the drivers for the wireless adapter. I tried looking and I don't recall downloading or installing anything around the time the problem started. Before I try replacing the adapter itself, I was hoping for help here since I saw a very similar problem in another thread.
If there is any more info I can give to help you help me, please let me know.
I have an Acer that spontaneously decided I no longer needed to play games. Everything else works perfectly fine. It's been doing this for the past few weeks and I've done all that I can. I'm no tech wizard by any means and I need some help. Pretty much it'll open to the load screen for a few moments then disappear back to my home screen. Any ideas on what it could be and what I can do?
These are the specs:
Acer Aspire V5 Touch with Windows 8.1
Model number: Z5WV2
If you need more info let me know, I still have everything for it.
If you are talking about the games that are loaded by a app. You will need to uninstall the app. Then reinstall the app. I have no ideal why this happens . But I have seen it more then once.
I m doing this on my Toshiba laptop at the moment and you ll see why later in this post Earlier today I acquired an ASUS Z C notebook and had noticed that the keyboard is acting rather strange Certain keys will also register other keys when pressed Here s which ones react this ASUS Issue Z54C/X54C Mapping Keyboard way letters are not case sensitive U will also register Zero will register registers registers R W registers S ASUS Z54C/X54C Keyboard Mapping Issue I I places a Date Stamp this might be the problem There may be others but I d like to move on to the behavior the way this behaves is if I press the key U then quot u quot or quot U quot will show up depending on ASUS Z54C/X54C Keyboard Mapping Issue if I press Shift or not The same thing happens if I press the key This is the same for all others if I press one or the other of these keys in question the other appears with it At first I thought this was a problem with the copy of Windows that was installed so I installed Windows Tech Preview I was going to do so anyway However this behavior did not go away Looking for help and I d be more than happy to resolve this problem I should note that not all keys behave this way but that the majority of them work fine It s just that this should not be happening to begin with I ve also pulled the keyboard out and inspected it I didn t see any dried fluids or any obstructions in the keys Should I perhaps consider replacing the keyboard Sadly I have no USB keyboards to see if the behavior is isolated to the laptops primary keyboard although using the On-Screen Keyboard doesn t elicit this behavior nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/asus-z54c-x54c-keyboard-mapping-issue.208302/
Have an unusual mark on screen at startup then green lines and pink but otherwise pc ok cannot upload jpeg image for some reason
HI all I am having problems detecting the Xonar Pheobus and have tried all and 5 Rampage Asus Phoebus Xonar issue Asus Extreme the pcie slots with no luck Red and the grey - even the shorter grey slot Have disabled the motherboard s HD onboard Asus Xonar Phoebus and Asus Rampage 5 Extreme issue sound too and still not detected in my devices The pcie cable is connected to the sound card and I have enough PSU to power all - Enermax W When the card is inserted to the grey slots - The red light Asus Xonar Phoebus and Asus Rampage 5 Extreme issue is seen through the control extension box Headphone Microphone Connector Asus Xonar Phoebus and Asus Rampage 5 Extreme issue box jack ports However the green light is NOT seen AND the Xonar Phoebus logo on the card itself is lit powered up However when I insert the card into the red pcie slots these lights are not on One this else I noticed is the card DOES go warm over some time so tells me it is not switched off I tried to install the driver and I get a message no card detected etc etc Is there anyone kind enough to advise me their BIOS settings etc who has managed to get the Xonar to work properly Did you have to adjust any BIOS settings from default to get the card to be recognised Printscreens would be cool if it is not too much of a bother Thank you in advance Kind regards Killershadow nbsp
The question(s) I have is ->
Am I missing anything when attempting to install the sound card? I have tried with no GPU drivers (including the Nvidia sound for the GTX 750 ti sc) / disabled onboard HD sound and still the sound card not detected.
Even in this motherboard, it should detect the sound card regardless of what sound source is set as default and then allow me to install it and set it as default (without messing about with the BIOS)?
Maybe my sound card has died when moving it from the last computer - Static death.....................
Hello All I am having a bit of a strange issue that I have with CPU Motherboard or Strange issue never run into before Yesterday after getting home from the store I booted up my PC and started to play a game although I noticed that I was getting framerate stuttering It seemed to keep dropping a lot throughout my play So I started taking a look at some of my sensor utilities Strange issue with CPU or Motherboard When I opened Asus Probe II I noticed that it was telling me that one of my chassis fans weren t running Okay no problem it must have gone bad I than took at look at the frequency and noticed that my AMD FX- was only running at GHz per core I also checked CPUZ and had the same results So I booted to the bios just to take a look and noticed that it show my Chassis fan WAS running fine and that my frequency was at GHz per core as it should So I though that it must be a fluke Booted back into windows and again same issues So I shutdown and took the side off my case which is also where the Chassis fan it said was running is located Turned the computer back on and noticed the fan was running fine I logged into windows and noticed that seconds after windows logs in that one chassis fan turns off and the CPU underclocks to GHz multiplier All of the other fans in my case still running perfectly GPU running fine HDD s running fine Could it be possible that Asus probe II itself is underclocking my CPU If so what would be causing the fan to shut off My first thought was power-supply but I have no issues when stressing my hardware even in this state I am an IT consultant but have not run into this issue before Any help would be greatly appreciated PC Specs- ASUS m a r Motherboard AMD FX- CPU CoolerMaster HYPER N CPU Cooler Kingston HyperX Blu GB x Galaxy Geforce GTX Ti OC w PowerSupply Cougar Evolution Full Tower Case Samsung gb SSD Let me know if you need any other information nbsp
CPU temperature too high?
So I have a Toshiba Portege r500 with no H/d & a second one for parts. When I went to take the H/D and pop it in I realized the H/D hook-up cables are different. The "parts laptop" has a "FMUSH1" cable connecting it to the sata drive. The newer Portege has a cable labeled " FMUPH2" (I'm assuming for an SSD?)
My Question is....Can easily swap them somehow or is there an adapter/converter possibly?
Thanks in advance for any possible help!
So with more research I'm thinking I have a ZIF Tape (Cable) that previously connected to a 1.8 SSD which I now need to convert to a 2.5 sata connection.
I ordered a 24-Pin ZIF to SATA Adapter Connector Card off eBay. It comes with its own "ribbon" (Tape/cable whatever) as shown in the pic. Will I need to replace the ZIF from my mobo with it? or is it simply in case "you" need it?
Also just wondering could I have swapped out the sata ribbon (Fmush1) with the ZIF ribbon (Fmuph2) where they connect to the MoBo instead? (It's extremely difficult to get to on this model and the "clips" seem very fragile so I avoided attempting it)
Can I run 1600mhz ram on a mb which is supported 1333mhz (my config MSI-760gm P21-FX 1gb asus amd radeon 5450 gfx card And 4gb rm of 600mhz.
1600 MHz RAM should down-clock to 1333MHz just fine, but I will not make guaranties. It usually works perfect, but there is always the possibility of incompatibilities.
The GPU memory and frequency is independent and irrelevant for this topic.
I have done everything I can think of. I have windows 7 64 bit. I have disabled/re-enabled sound cards, uninstalled/reinstalled drivers. I have checked all settings I possibly can think of. My head phones work GREAT and on startup I can hear the sound, but once in windows, no sounds through my speakers.
I installed win 7 x86 on a sony vaio vpceb36fg. Everything seems OK but the Fn keys. The combination of Fn+related keys work only for sound volume and screen lock button and not for others!
How to get all Fn keys worked please?
Is it needed to install any tool/utility?
Your laptop came with Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit so I'm curious as to why you decided to install a 32 bit version.
Laptops, particularly Vaios, have specific functions assigned to keys. On yours you were previously able to surf the web and play DVDs without booting up into Windows. To regain all that you've lost will take quite a bit of work. The utilities you need will be on a Sony support site. However, sometimes things have to be installed in a particular order before they work. It took me a long time Googling, downloading utilities and experimenting to get everything working when I reinstalled the OS on my Vaio.
Before I say anything else, I am very new to building a computer. Ive never built one in my life. I am curious if the setup I have to far will work! I am trying to look for pretty cheap but good options for parts. So far I have a case, processor, and GPU in mind. I need ideas for the motherboard especially. I dont know how to tell if everything would work correctly, so if something would be incompatible, could you tell me?
So far I have
GPU: Nvidia GTX 760
CPU: Intel Core i7-3770k
Case: NZXT Phantom 240 Mid Tower
Hard-Drive: Seagate Barracuda 2TB HDD
Operating System: Windows 7 64 Bit
Would there be anything else I need? Also what is thermal compound and Heatsink? Are these required for my setup? Please tell me if there is anything wrong with this so far and what items I should use for the unfilled spaces! Thank you all so much!
Over multiple devices on the network wifi works including this laptop I m running on However any time I try to use ethernet including on this laptop there is no internet connection The error when troubleshooting is Wi-Fi Works, Ethernet Doesn't Dns server not responding While on ethernet connection Wi-Fi Works, Ethernet Doesn't I can access the networked printer but cannot access the default gateway so connection is going from room to the modem and through I have tried restarting the wifi lan modem which then connects to another router down stairs which I haven t restarted my dad won t let me I have tried flushing dns uninstalling and re installing the adapter starting in safe mode with networking This is my ipconfig all while on wifi Windows IP Configuration Host Name Rob-Laptop Primary Dns Suffix Node Type Hybrid IP Routing Enabled No WINS Proxy Enabled No DNS Suffix Search List BigPond Wireless LAN adapter Local Area Connection Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft Wi-Fi Direct Virtual Adapter Physical Address B - - - - - B DHCP Enabled Yes Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Wireless LAN adapter Wi-Fi Connection-specific DNS Suffix BigPond Description Mediatek MT E bgn Wi-Fi Adapter Physical Address B - - - - - DHCP Enabled Yes Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Link-local IPv Address fe c d f d a Preferred IPv Address Preferred Subnet Mask Lease Obtained Wednesday December PM Lease Expires Friday December PM Default Gateway DHCP Server DHCPv IAID DHCPv Client DUID - - - - B- - D-A - -A - - -C - DNS Servers NetBIOS over Tcpip Enabled Ethernet adapter Ethernet Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix BigPond Description Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller Physical Address -A - - -C - DHCP Enabled Yes Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes IPv Address d d e fbb a Preferred Link-local IPv Address fe e fbb a Preferred Default Gateway DHCPv IAID DHCPv Client DUID - - - - B- - D-A - -A - - -C - NetBIOS over Tcpip Disabled Tunnel adapter isatap BigPond Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix BigPond Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes And here it is on Ethernet Windows IP Configuration Host Name Rob-Laptop Primary Dns Suffix Node Type Hybrid IP Routing Enabled No WINS Proxy Enabled No DNS Suffix Search List BigPond Wireless LAN adapter Local Area Connection Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft Wi-Fi Direct Virtual Adapter Physical Address B - - - - - B DHCP Enabled Yes Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Wireless LAN adapter Wi-Fi Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix BigPond Description Mediatek MT E bgn Wi-Fi Adapter Physical Address B - - - - - DHCP Enabled Yes Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Ethernet adapter Ethernet Connection-specific DNS Suffix BigPond Description Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller Physical Address -A - - -C - DHCP Enabled Yes Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Link-local IPv Address fe b c dc Preferred IPv Address Preferred Subnet Mask Lease Obtained Thursday December PM Lease Expires Friday December PM Default Gateway DHCP Server DHCPv IAID DHCPv Client DUID - - - - B- - D-A - -A - - -C - DNS Servers NetBIOS over Tcpip Enabled Tunnel adapter Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter isatap BigPond Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix BigPond Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Any help you could give would be mu... Read morehttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/wi-fi-works-ethernet-doesnt.207715/
My pc was getting heated nd fan was a bit noisy.
so cleaned my fan in a shop .when I returned home hardly 10 min my pc worked then shut down
again I went der he saw fan was not moving he pushed it a bit nd it started moving it worked for me till this this evening but again when I shut it down fr a while it gave me the same issue I removed the keypad tried to move the fan with my fingers nd its working now .....
whats the main issue
The fan is old and needs to be replaced.
So I ve owned my P HM gaming laptop for around years now and for the most part I haven t had any issues However when I start my laptop it always defaults to booting off of the ethernet card even after switching my SSD to the position in the bios menu Normally this isn t that much of an issue as I can just cycle through the bios boot options using CTRL Laptop Boot issue ALT DEL The main issue that I am having now is that the last time I was using my laptop I used hibernate instead of the normal quot sleep quot or quot standby quot Now whenever I attempt to start my laptop up the message quot Resume from hibernate quot is on my screen which is normal except it tries to resume using the ethernet card If the laptop is in hibernate evidently I am not able to access the BIOS menu or cycle through my boot drives I have read that a way to fix this Laptop Boot issue might just be taking the battery out and letting any residual power that the motherboard might be running off of fade away over time I read that this normally only takes minutes or so I tried waiting minutes and it Laptop Boot issue didn t work so I just tried again but waited a few hours this time before putting the battery back in and attempting to start my laptop up The laptop is still attempting to boot from hibernate Does anyone know of any way to get to the BIOS menu from the hibernate screen Or does anyone know of anyway to fully shut off my laptop Laptop Boot issue to get rid of hibernate and just start up normally Any assistance would be greatly appreciated nbsp
it always defaults to booting off of the ethernet cardClick to expand...
This means that BIOS is not seeing any HD, marked Active and contains a bootable partition
I have a mystery on my hands. I received a Bluetooth speaker as a gift. The BT-4.0 adapter plugged into my computer (USB-2.0 port) detects it (as a "Bluetooth headset"), but when I try to select it as my output device (from the "Sound" Control Panel), Windows reports it as "Disconnected".
If I open "Devices and Printers" and right-click the "Bluetooth headset" icon, I get an alert that the device "Failed to initialize".
I've tried rebooting, tried a different BT adapter, updated my BT drivers off the makers' website, Device Manager shows everything is connected & working (including "Bluetooth Audio").
64bit Win7 Home. Inateck BT-4.0 usb adapter. Speaker is a "MicroBoom" BT v2.1:
PS: Eliminated the obvious. Speaker is fully charged and works just fine with my phone.
I have two cheepo USB Bluetooth adapters for my Windows 7 PC. One is a tiny generic (thumbnail sized) micro adapter, the other a small "stick" made by Rocketfish.
Both adapters install and "claim" to detect my Bluetooth speaker (misidentifying it as a Bluetooth headset. I have no headset), but the speaker doesn't detect the PC (even when clicking the Discover button.) My cellphone sees my speaker, but it too DOESN'T see my PC.
Are all Bluetooth adapters the same and if my cheap adapters won't pair with anything, neither will an expensive one? Or might there be something else going on?
Do you see any yellow (!) in the device manager when either of the Bluetooth devices are installed?
I have a toshiba laptop right at a year of having it, it will not allow me to get internet connection even though it shows its getting wifi or set up through the router.. Is this a virus or other issue
Moving this topic to appropriate forum.
Hey guys, my laptop asus stopped working with wifi connection and I was just reading some posts here about this same problem but didn't find how to fix it.
I was uninstalling some programs from my pc but I didn't uninstall programs named "something wireless". I just took off what I knew I could.
I also tried the option "solve problems" in the wireless pc symbol and the answer was to connect my laptop to an ethernet cable...that never happened. Just now.
Does anyone knows how I get back my wireless connection? Pleasee
Powercycle the modem and router. Here is a specific order if you have a separate modem and router.
1. Shut down all PC's.
2. Shut down the Modem and router.
3. Power on the modem only. Wait 2 minutes or so.
4. Power on the router. Wait 2 minutes or so.
If you have a modem/router combo, then you don't need step 4.
5. Boot up the PC and see if you can connect.
Hi all I have to the WLAN work as rather Router on from a WiFi LAN a a typical situation in my Internet and LAN setup My ISP provides me with a direct LAN cable that I need to connect either into my PC or into the WiFi Router WLAN port I also have a LAN that I need to connect to so I have installed a separate LAN card for the internal LAN purposes My two setups are below with their issues I hope someone can suggest a middle grounds to have a LAN and a WiFi too Scenario The ISP cable goes into the WLAN port of the Router Cables from the router goes into my PC network card and to other PCs for LAN purposes The PC cards are all configured to automatic IP LAN Internet WiFi is now available This works fine for a few days and then the internet stops working because there is a conflict of IP The ISP expects IPs like xxx and the one on the LAN Router for my PC is Scenario Router to work as a WiFi on the LAN rather from a WLAN The ISP cable goes into network card internet sharing is enabled Router to work as a WiFi on the LAN rather from a WLAN and automatic IP with the ISP s expected IP xxx Another cable goes from my PC s network card fixed IP into the regular LAN port of the same Router Without any issues over the months the Internet works the LAN works other PCs have fixed IPs too etc but no Wifi Can I have best of both the worlds in such a situation I can t install a rd network card for sure as the slot on the mother board is limited Please advise Thanks in advance Bhavbhuti nbsp
isp==>(wan)router-->PC card-1, et al (conflict 123.237,234.xxx v 192.168.1.100)
scenario-1 is a configuration or firmware condition
scenario-2 is a real security issue and the primary PC is basically acting as a DMZ server and is at risk.
Here's my setup:
isp==(wan)router-1--- PCs in the same room
+---(lan)router-2(with wifi) - - - wifi connections in the den
configuration to make this work with full file/print sharing:
disable DHCP in this router
setup all WiFi settings here
notice: router-2 wan slot is left empty to make this work
set LAN address of router one as you please (eg: 192.168.1.1 )
set an address reservation for router-2's MAC -> a fixed, constant IP address on that same subnet (eg 192.168.1.254)
set the DHCP range small (eg 2-32)
router-1 will control all auto-ip assignments for both routers.
Personally, I add another tweak;
reserve ip addresses for all of my devices into the low-end of the dhcp range (say 2-10) and
let 'guests' take addresses above 10
This gives the opportunity to allow file/print sharing to known systems (2-10) and disallow for the guests.
Setup totally within the routers allow my laptop to travel and not be effected by these choices.
Well I am accessing my remote router via and it works access work via phone, Remote PC doesnt via ok when I am using my Phone s Remote access ok via phone, doesnt work via PC browser chrome or IE on Samsung however when I am at computer at work I cant access my router I ran Tracert and I am getting up to hoops and th says quot Request timed out quot lt ms lt ms ms lt ms lt ms lt ms lt ms lt ms lt ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms ms Remote access ok via phone, doesnt work via PC ms ms ms border ge - unitedair- chg pnap net ms ms ms core te - -bbnet chg pnap net ms ms ms ae - chi ip gtt net ms ms ms xe- - - chi ip gtt net ms ms ms c-eth- - - -pe ecermak il ibone comcast ms ms ms he- - - - -cr ecermak il ibone comcast ms ms ms ms ms ms te- - - - -sur mortongrove il chicago com net ms ms ms te- - -cdn mortongrove il chicago comcas t Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Request timed out Trace complete Anyone would know why it works on the phone and doesnt really go through all the way to the end nbsp
Ok I have to ask first when you are using your phone is it always using mobile data or do you connect it at work via wifi? When reason that makes sense to me is at your work they maybe blocking the remote port. I guess it all depends on what you are using also. If you are just using standard RDP then they might be blocking port 3389. If you could give further information on how you are connecting remotely whether using software such as teamviewer or just standard RDP. Also how do you have your router configured. I can better understand witht is information thanks....
I need help Okay so I hooked up all my parts last night with issue 560ti Crosshair and Video V Asus GPU to my ASUS Crosshair Formula V mobo and Video issue with Asus Crosshair V and 560ti GPU when I boot it will not show any video whatsoever No beeps no video no nothing I have a ti in there right now because I wanted to test it before my new came in that I ordered yesterday Video issue with Asus Crosshair V and 560ti GPU just wanted to see if the mobo was functional and all my other components were working Does anyone know why I would be getting no video I was thinking maybe I need to reset Video issue with Asus Crosshair V and 560ti GPU the CMOS Some people told me to check the BIOS but how do I do that if I have zero video on my screen Any help would be great as I am at wit s end with this stupid computer it has not run right since I moved and it is extremely frustrating putting all this time and money into this thing with no results I used to have a Corsair Liquid CPU cooler but the pump died and I finally got fed up with Liquid Coolers and went with a Noctua heat sink instead Going to do some more testing after work but was hoping to get some tips from you guys I have other ti s I can test to see if that card is just dead but it was like midnight and just decided to give up for the night last night Also My motherboard doesn t have an on-board video port I don t believe I see none at least My PC was up and running with drivers loaded for this exact card before it went down the computer has just been sitting there for months I am using the same hard drive only thing that has changed is the Noctua cpu cooler being in place of the now dead Corsair H All the fans are running the video card fan is running the psu fan is running so it seems like everything is getting power Any help would be greatly appreciated If you need more info please let me know nbsp
Let's do this one step at a time, first no part of any computer lasts for ever. U said u had 2 other video cards, first, see if either one of them will work. If that does not work, it could be the slot in the mother board, try an other X16 slot. but honestly to me it sounds like the mother board is not working if u have a speaker plugged into it and assuming the speaker is working because normally there would be beeps if the motherboard is not sending a video signal.
I pair my Plantronics Calisto PLT Headset to my Desktop Computer (Windows 7 x64), and it showed that everything is OK, but when I tried to use it, it didn't work.
When I press icon of sound on the taskbar and I go to Playback or Recording there is there Bluetooth Hands-free Audio but is Disconnected, and I don't have any idea how to connect this and make to work.
Can someone help me to solve this problem? I will really appreciate any help.
I did everything like supposed to be. I attached few images to show my situation.
Yesterday I bought USB BT400 Adapter.
I started everything from beginning and there is exactly the same situation. Nothing changed. If you look to the picture, everything is pair and installed and when I ask them, they said that was something wrong with Windows configuration (not 100%).
Point is that they didn't have any clue what is wrong.
I didn't mention that before when I installed USB Bluetooth Adapter, and I pair my device in the Playback and Recording devices when I tried to connect it worked for very short time and after this somehow disconnected by itself.
I don't know if I explain well what's happened, but if you want to ask something to make clear, please don't hesitate.
Hey, so I have an OCZ ZT 750 and its one of the units which runs 100% fan noise when ever im doing anything that requires the GPU, ive seen you can run the fan into a molex with a resistor to keep it constant, but what I want to do is, run it to my fan controller, just so I can ramp the fan up if needed, rather than nailing down the performance.
What I found is the fan is a 2 Pin connector, but fan controllers run 3 pins, am I able to run the 2 pin into the 3 pin on the fan controller and have control over it, or does the 3rd pin need to be connected for it to work?
I have a problem with my laptop.
Sometimes the space bar, n and enter key stops working. When this happens, I can usually hit the button a few times and the key finally registers. It happens randomly and quite often. But sometimes I can type for hours without it happening.
I have not spilled any liquid on my laptop and I haven't dropped it. The problem started randomly a few months ago.
Does anyone know what could be causing this?
The laptop is an Asus K55V. It is nearly 3 years old
Not sure if this might work that well, but give it a try! If it doesn't..go to a technician...its probably the best idea.
Shut down the laptop, removed battery and cable for a moment, press and hold the start button for 60 seconds... and replace the battery.. start the lap top.
Hope this helps!
What the title says. I bought a TP-Link WDR4300 and installed it, and everything works perfectly on every device except for my laptop (Windows 8.1 Lenovo G480, running Windows Defender as AV). When connecting wirelessly, I get access to the router, but it shows "limited", and it doesn't even let me get into the setup page (192.168.0.1) and when I ping it, every packet is lost. Ethernet, meanwhile, works perfectly. I'd appreciate any suggestions on how to fix it.
I'd like to attach the ipconfig outputs but my command prompt is in spanish and some of the characters are missing in the .txt file, too. I don't know how to get the file in english.
@jobeard I saw one thread you solved in which you said to mention you so you could help. I'd really appreciate it. Thanks beforehand for any and all suggestions.
Hi, You will always have to use the ethernet (Cat 5) cable to get into your router's software, at 192.168.0.1, all routers are set up like that for security reasons.
It's done that way so that no one can change your settings, passwords etc using a wireless connection, you must use the Cat 5 cable to make setup & security changes.
Did you get any setup software with the TP Link router?
If you get good internet access using Windows 8.1 using the ethernet cable, it
might point to possible wireless driver issues.
It might be worth downloading the latest driver for your WDR4300 from the TP-link website;
Hello everyone Been having some crazy stuff going on with this new PC that I just built I cannot get it to startup at first try I just get a black screen and the BIOS welcome try always doesn't first second/third at (but does try) up PC boot at doesn t show up and neither does the windows startup loading of course When I manually restart it Power Button long press it runs just fine I have read that thousands of things could be potentially causing this from Hard Drive to Power Supply to graphics card but my actual bet is on RAM voltages overclock causing it since I recently overclocked it via BIOS setting the default frequency at mhz which is what my RAM offers at maximum and the max that my Motherboard can read The actual voltage is set to auto via BIOS which stays at V so I m not sure if lowering or raising it will solve the problem XMP is disabled not sure if that s relevant My BIOS is up to date My graphics card is old I m planning to change it soon but I didn t have any problem in the past with it Hard drive is also old but runs just fine I m open for any suggestions Specs - Tacens Mars Gaming W power supply - AMD FX- Eight-Core - PC doesn't boot up at first try (but always does at second/third try) MSI Gaming Motherboard http thepcenthusiast com msi- PC doesn't boot up at first try (but always does at second/third try) -gaming-am -motherboa - XFX ATI Radeon HD GB DDR - G Skill Ripjaws X DDR PC - GB CL x modules of GB Dual channel in slots amp - Hard Drive SATA II WD EADS- M B TB - Win - bit Some screenshots CPU-Z confirms I m running at mhz MSI Command Center does not get accurate frequency readings Thanks in advance for all the help If I forgot to mention something please tell me nbsp
Check and make sure the wire cables are connected properly and not loose. Also, can replace CMOS battery and see you may able to access your computer.
P.S. Also check that the hard drive connection is set to UEFI under BIOS connection settings. Windows 8/8.1 supports only secure booting.
Good luck though!!
I just finished assembling my first build. At first it turned on without a hitch, was able to install windows and a few drivers.
I had to restart a few times, which went fine for the first few times, and then it just didn't boot back up. The power button doesn't do anything, the fans don't start, nothing happens.
When I jump the psu, all the fans start, so I'm thinking the issue must be with the mobo..
Here's a list of all the parts I'm using : http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/JFVvD3
First, are any wires touching that might be causing a short such as a wire touching the back of the mobo? Second, I had something similar happen to me a few years ago with a new build. There is a tried and true though often tedious way that can help diagnose possible issues.
1. Remove all hardware except for one RAM stick from the motherboard and this includes Sata and fan connections to peripherals such as your SSD, etc,
2. Now see if the system boots with only the one RAM stick. If it boots then shut down add the second stick of RAM and then reboot. If it boots then repeat by adding a piece at a time.
3. If is doesn't boot then it is either your mobo or your power supply. Also, check to see if your heat sink is seated correctly.
BTW, nice little system there.
My internet wont work, ive tried using both crome and IE but both browsers say that I am not connected to the internet despite the fact my computer says that I am connected to the internet. I know its not a network problem because my other devices are connecting fine. Also I tried connecting to the wifi at home and at school and it still does not work. My laptop is a HP ProBook 6390b and I am using windows 7. This problem started occurring after about 4 months disuse of my laptop which I think might be a factor as to why its not working. I have run windows updater and run a scan with my antivirus but still nothing helps. Thank you for any assistance in advance.
Have you kept up and installed all the Windows 7 updates and are there any yellow (!) in the device manager?
I got a hp 6371it
link --> (http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c02054227&tmp_track_link=ot_faqs/top_issues/it_i...
I have this problem: I bought a kingston Dimm ValueRam 4GB DDR3 1333MHz Non-ECC CL9 (it is compatible with my mb according to hp website). I installed it on my pc and:
1) if I install just that ram it works fine
2) if I install that ram I bought and one ore both ram I had already installed in my pc it doens't work or it blocks on hp main screen or it appears the classic blue screen of hardware error and it never enter on windows (it asks for a system reinstallation)
what is the problem? should I do something else? I tried mounting rams in different slots, I tried everything
Sound as though the ram you bought is not compatible with the existing ram. Is the ram you bought the same specs as the old ram?
About a week ago, our cable internet connection went out. Before I had a chance to reboot the modem & router, my 11 year old decided to completely reset the router to factory settings! Ugh! This caused several issues: my home network is now gone, only a unsecured factory network is available. When I try to plug my laptop into the router via ethernet cord (in order to login to router and setup secure network) my computer will not recognize the router and won't connect to internet. I tried troubleshooting with my cable provider and they say it's in my computer (IP address will not reset) and he recommended I replace my network card. However, today when I brought my laptop to work, it will instantly recognize the wifi at work. So is it really my network card that is causing issues? Please help, I'm desperate and not tech too tech savvy!
Linksys wireless router
Charter cable modem
Hp pavillion dv6 laptop with Windows Vista OS
Did you figure this out?
Hi can any one help I cant hear any sound on my laptop its all turned up but when I conect it to my tv the volumes fine but soon as I disconnet from the tv the sound ont go.
Did you fix this?
Bought the following brand new at Best Buy on and trying to get setup Lenovo K e desktop tower keyboard and mouse LG MP HQ monitor MS Office key code Webroot internet security disc After connecting everything according to the instruction of both the Lenovo and LG instructions double amp triple checking all parts accounted for and connected properly here s what happened Lenovo tower up turn Monitor tower, hooked on doesn't to but boots up fine disc drive in tower opens and closes properly Lenovo keyboard and mouse both detected Great so far except LG monitor does not turn on at all In the back of the monitor two things are connected blue HDMI connector with pins on both sides is connected to HDMI connection in back of tower AC DC adapter plugged into electrical outlet and other end directly into monitor Everything works when power booted up except monitor shows no life - no light indicator and black screen Monitor hooked up to tower, but doesn't turn on Monitor just doesn t turn on at all There are driver discs for both lenovo win and the LG monitor and like I said I can insert them into the tower and close but nothing happens on the monitor display Best Buy said it should be no issue using the LG monitor with the Lenovo PC tower They will charge me to come out to my home even though I bought two year Geek Squad plan They also said I would still get charged even if they were unable to get Monitor hooked up to tower, but doesn't turn on me setup Seems like there is one probably really easy fix but I don t want to pay to have them come out if I get charged regardless of the outcome Anyone out there with any idea what could be preventing the monitor from powering up other than Monitor hooked up to tower, but doesn't turn on it s bad which is unlikely as it was brand new sealed in the box Thanks nbsp
If no standby LED on monitor, is there a separate on/off switch on the side of the monitor?
With LG there are usually manual buttons for CH+- & vol +- plus On/Off (although I have seen monitors with no on/off at all.)
Also check for 'hidden' buttons on the front lower edge of frame or under the front (right) edge.
I would try a different mains lead/cord that is known to to work, also check for a fuse in the plug, could be missing, or isolated with plastic foil.
Even with no inputs the monitor would show a 'No Signal' sign if it was working.
If no 'standby' LED and you have a separate AC to DC adapter block then that could be the problem. All monitors I've seen have a direct AC connection though.
If it then does work, the on-screen menu will need to be selected, and 'input' changed to HDMI.
My brothers schoolwork laptop is frozen the problem occured like 2 days ago were the laptop seemed to be freezing for a couple of minutes and now when he trys to switch it on
Bios is not booting up.
and the only options he gets is launch in repair safe mode and start windows normally. which end up both the same in a black screen and a little black cursor with nothing to do but move the cursor.
after this happened my first reaction was for a complete format so I tried to install him a new copy of windows but my bootable device isnt even being recognized by the system it always ends up in the same screen for the windows startup.
edit ok so I dug a little more.psh..never had a laptop and found out the bios is on the asus logo screen.....well anyhow I booted up the system from the pendrive and the result is always the same the black screen with cursor only
The laptops hard drive has failed...
Here again since I have the most weird problem ever which I have never seen nor heard of before. I recently upgraded the OS on a friends computer, from Vista to 7. However now I can't seem to get the onboard ethernet adapter to work, it can't be seen in device manager nor anywhere else. I have tried to reset the bios (by removing the cmos battery) and I have also checked that the network adapter is set to 'Enabled'. Also, when I connect the cable to the ethernet port no lights go on, it doesn't give any sort of hope what so ever. The cable is ok, the "modem" is ok, and everything else seems to be in order and yet it doesn't work.
Computer in question:
HP Pavilion 6530sc
Non-default GPU and added 1Gb RAM
Whenever you install a new OS, always take note of the model of core system hardware like GPU, chipset, and ethernet/wifi (there are a few others that aren't as important, but nice to have updated) since those are critical to your computers core functionality.
However, a quick google search of your model yielded me with your PC's system specs. Your PC contains a Realtek RTL8201N ethernet adapter. So far I am unable to find a driver from Realtek itself and the HP driver is not Realtek, but instead nVidia nForce.
So after a bit of searching, I came across this: it seems to me that you have an old chipset from nVidia. I am not completely sure, but I think you have an ION chipset. Try installing this ION chipset driver (64 bit) ==OR== this ION chipset driver (32 bit) and tell me if it works. It should include the necessary component drivers and if it works, it means you have an ION chipset like I suspected.
Here are the specifications for your PC BTW.
I've recently built a new computer for myself and has been running perfect for a few months. A couple days ago whilst gaming/browsing my monitor went into power safe mode and shortly after my computer shut off, I tried to start up again only to have the same problem occur , the only old parts were a graphics card and psu, I just got in a new gpu and installed it successfully. Same problem occurs. All fans are running properly including the heatsink , processor core temps are around 39 , everything seems to be running ok? Thoughts?
Check event viewer to see why it shut down.
Hi, hope I've put enough specs in profile for you to help. I have a Compaq Presario 6735s I bought around 2008. CPU quite slow but graphics card not bad so made decision to upgrade. Looked up the laptop manual here to find compatible CPUs for motherboard, socket type etc. Went through 3 different (*****ic) buys before I found one that actually fitted.
Now with everything reassembled, screen will flash up once upon powering on, then nothing. All usual lights come on, even my wireless connects, makes usual start up noises, fan, dvd drive etc ....
Proceeded to take everything apart again, re-connected everything I tampered with. Even RAM, which I didn't have to remove before.
Still same reaction starting up.
Really frustrated with myself as thought this would be the right one. Could honestly cry, haha.
I read the tutorial on here called 'No POST' to no avail either. I really hope it can come back from this.
One last thing I can think of (before pulling new CPU out) is upgrading BIOS to support new CPU but with no screen I am stuck.
Can someone please give me a little direction?
Did you re-install the old CPU to see if the laptop booted normally again? Upgrading CPU's on laptop motherboards can be a very difficult thing to do. What is supposed to be compatible in reality is not
Hello to all I m going to install Win XP properly port The ps/2 of doesn't work the motherboard on my computer I had win but had some problem with installing the HP printer on it and so I decide to install XP because that printer seems to be installed properly The ps/2 port of the motherboard doesn't work properly on XP Now When I put the XP CD on the CD driver it says press a ker to boot from CD and I press the Enter key now the keyboard works after that within installation time when that I should press Enter to install XP this time the keyboard doesn t work My guess is that the ps port of the case has problem it s old and somewhat has been broad Now what is the solution in your point of The ps/2 port of the motherboard doesn't work properly view please My system manufacturer is quot ECS quot and the system model is quot pl-A quot PS there are two black amp white screens which mobo shows First screen shows the amount of RAM the model of CPU the IDEs and info like these which is common for first screen But the here when I want to enter to BIOS by pressing Del key it seems that keyboard doesn t work so it doesn t go to bios The second black amp white screen shows fewer info and it says quot Press shift-F to configure and when I press these two I can to enter to an environment that seems to not be the BIOS the keyboard here WORKS It has very few options And apparently doesn t have options of manipulating the keyboard settings nbsp
So currently I have a modem in the living room Cisco EPC and then it goes all the way to my room to a Cisco WRTG V router Yesterday out of the blue it stopped working This is because I previously had routers in the network Asus and Cisco anyways I decided to disconnect my asus and use only the cisco but the router just won t work I reseted it to it s fabric settings But when I log into it it says the router s IP adress is And hands out IP adresses to my pc such as I have no idea what to do Microsoft Windows Version Copyright c Microsoft Corporation All rights reserved C Users MiKi gt ipconfig all Windows IP Configuration Host Name MiKi-PC Primary Dns Suffix Node Type Hybrid IP Routing Enabled No WINS Proxy Enabled No DNS Suffix Search Router work won't properly List sbb rs Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection Connection-specific DNS Suffix sbb rs Description Intel R V Gigabit Network Connectio n Physical Address - B- - Router won't work properly -B - E DHCP Enabled Yes Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Link-local Router won't work properly IPv Address fe d d ca Preferred IPv Address Preferred Subnet Mask Lease Obtained Wednesday June AM Lease Expires Wednesday June AM Default Gateway DHCP Server DHCPv IAID DHCPv Client DUID - - - - -B -D -EB- - B- - -B - E DNS Servers NetBIOS over Tcpip Enabled Tunnel adapter isatap sbb rs Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix sbb rs Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes IPv Address d abd e a Pref erred Link-local IPv Address fe e a Preferred Default Gateway NetBIOS over Tcpip Disabled Tunnel adapter TO Adapter Connection-specific DNS Suffix sbb rs Description Microsoft to Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes IPv Address ebd bbaa ebd bbaa Preferred Default Gateway c c DNS Servers NetBIOS over Tcpip Disabled C Users MiKi gt This is my ipconfig with the modem and this is with my router Microsoft Windows Version Copyright c Microsoft Corporation All rights reserved C Users MiKi gt ipconfig all Windows IP Configuration Host Name MiKi-PC Primary Dns Suffix Node Type Hybrid IP Routing Enabled No WINS Proxy Enabled No Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Intel R V Gigabit Network Connectio n Physical Address - B- - -B - E DHCP Enabled Yes Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Link-local IPv Address fe d d ca Preferred IPv Address Preferred Subnet Mask Lease Obtained Wednesday June AM Lease Expires Thursday June AM Default Gateway DHCP Server DHCPv IAID DHCPv Client DUID - - - - -B -D -EB- - B- - -B - E DNS Servers NetBIOS over Tcpip Enabled Tunnel adapter Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes Tunnel adapter isatap BE - - BA - E- B A F Media State Media disconnected Connection-specific DNS Suffix Description Microsoft ISATAP Adapter Physical Address - - - - - - -E DHCP Enabled No Autoconfiguration Enabled Yes C Users MiKi gt nbsp
Have you tried pressing the reset button on the router? (long press)
I have seen this 'reset button' on several router brands/models like tp-link (tl-wr941n, tl-wr740n old version, tl-wr740n newer version), buffalo draft-N routers, cdrking routers (made in china router brand sold in the Philippines).
if the reset process I described is the same as what you typed in your first post, try to manually change the router ip address.
my wimax modem ip address = 192.168.1.1
so for the tp-link wr-740 router, I use ip address - 192.168.0.1
login to your router and change it. if there's any save button, click it. my router prompts me to reboot the router. after a few seconds, the preferred ip address I have chosen is good for use.
(I have hidden my MAC address)
My mother in law gave me her old computer because it would start for a few seconds then stop and continue to repeat the process until she unplugged it. I only wanted it for the extra hard drive. After installing the hard drive into my computer (wanting to format it then clone it since it is larger than the one I currently have) it caused my computer to start and stop even being set as a secondary or slave. If I completely unhook it from my computer and start it up again, My normal set up works fine. Any ideas about what could cause this?
There is only one answer, the drive has gone bad. Chances are the rest of the machine may still be good.
Will the old machine attempt to boot without a drive? Does it come up to a boot drive not found error? If it does, the HDD was the whole trouble.
I have a HP 650 notebook that is in ok condition with Windows 8 OS. It uses a Ralink 3290 wireless adapter for my wi-fi needs. For the past three months, my adapter has been vanishing! I look at the indicator in my bar, and it shows no device available. I open up the Network and sharing Center and select the change adapter settings, and the only thing showing is an ethernet connection that I don't use. I can sometimes get the adapter to return by using the find and fix devices option on the search menu, but sometimes even that doesn't work. I've even been getting the "This device cannot find enough free resources (code 12)" message for the Ralink PCIe from the troubleshooter. while I did see an article on this elsewhere, I had some trouble understanding it. Can anyone help me figure out why this is happening to my laptop? Thanks for any help you can provide.
You might need to update and install the laptops chipset drivers. And also try to update the driver for your wireless adapter from the manufactures site or from the HP support page.
First of all hello from a new user, I have a problem with my computer but I need help to nail it down to one part (I think it's the graphics card, but who am I to tell).
A friend of mine said people over here are very nice and competent so why not try to get help here.
Long story short, I played a game, Velvet Assassin, that is rather buggy (I.e. it didn't let me change the resolution to my native 1680x1050).
After some time the screen started flickering in complete white with some color bars here and there. I thought it was another bug on newer systems and changed the resolution; the problem seemed resolved.
Until my little brother started to play Forge of Empires, that little browser game, where the problem again occured at an even faster rate.
I hope you can help me, I made a short video of the issue, I know it's not of best quality, but maybe it helps.
Thank you in advance
Have you tried updating your drivers? Also could you please post the make and model of your laptop /desktop and the system specs.
I just got a new system that is rather light on the USB ports, so I figured I'd take advantage of the built in bluetooth. That being said are there any bluetooth mice that the users of Techspot either own and like, or find appealing? I tend to like my mice full sized and being contoured for the right hand is a bonus.
My friend's Windows 7 x64 ultimate machine recognizes some USB flash drives but not some other ones. The types of all are USB2 and also all drivers are installed (device manager). I don't know what is the problem. Is there any idea please?
USB Device Not Recognized? A Quick Fix For Windows XP/7/8
Whenever I unplug from the router and go upstairs, I can't connect to my wi-fi. The problem also persists downstairs unless I am connected by ethernet. It's been happening for about 2 days. At first the wi-fi would jump in and out randomly and quickly but now it simply wont connect. Is it a virus or how can I fix it?
You might just need to restart your router / WiFI AP to resolve that issue.
My dad was putting some paper into his printer and had apparently put the paper in too far. When he tried to print something it jammed up and the printer had abruptly shut off. I have tried leaving it unplugged for a while and plugging it back in however, the printer WILL NOT turn back on at all.
I've bought a Sound Blaster Recon 3D a year ago.
It works awsome ! But this morning it was off the light and cannot work while plug in any computers.
I am very bored and nervous, I think it was broken down and cannot work anymore.
Am I right ?
Please say NO and help me
Thank you very much.
Hello My sound chip on my board was blew for no reason bad thing only being a month old bored and I am not waiting days to rma it and for me to get it back anyway I managed to pick up a old sound card not sure on the model Motherboard? Work. Not Maybe Did Sound Card that worked fine for three days then stopped outputing audio so I bought a sound card intex cmi that did not have the bit wndows dirvers and everytime I turned the computer off the machine would not detect the card I then I have to press the reset button or turn the system a few times to get the card to be recognized again and I could not also find the drivers for the OS Sound Card Did Not Work. Maybe Motherboard? I checked at the back of the cards box and it says bit pci bus master What does the mean could that be that the card was not compatible for the stystem or could it be the motherboard I tried a nvidia video card in the Sound Card Did Not Work. Maybe Motherboard? PCI-E slot and the card works fine with no faults The sound card was using the PCI slot and I tried every PCI slot My Motherboard asrock fm a x extreme Thanks nbsp
I tested in a very old card from 2001 or 2004 something like that and it appears there's power going through the card so that's the plus.
Maybe it's because I'm using old crap and the sound card model is old?
Hi gang. My usb modem HAS to be unplugged then plugged in for it to work?
Even if PC is off when I do this it will automatically start/connect when windows(7) loads and will work normally. If I don't do this I can not get it to work?
'device mngr' shows it as an 'unknown device'?
I have reinstalled it to no avail.
Are you talking about a modem or a usb network adapter?
Hello. my rig is
fx 4100 4.53ghz
amd r9 270
corsair 600w gs600 gaming series psu
ocz vertex 3 90gb boot drive
240gb samsung 840 ssd
500 gb seagate hdd
1866mhz kingston hyperx ram
asus sabertooth fx990 r2.0
so my issue is this. I can overclock the r9 just fine, run benchmarks and whatnot. everything runs stable. I have clocked it as far as 1100 core and 1600 memory. everything ran stable on heaven and 3dmark vantage and things like msi kombustor to check for stability. as soon as I went into a game, it went bsod. so I figured ok. oc too high. I dropped it abit, tried again. same result. I continued reducing the core and memory till it went down to stock, and then it runs stable. any increase in core or memory by even 1 mhz, will cause it to crash in game. drivers are all up to date, bios, things like that all up to date. any suggestions as to why games don't like it? its multiple games as well. me1, 2, 3, swtor, wow etc. thanks
Well if the overclock if causing the issue, chances are it can seem stable but then turn out to not be because a certain area is stressed more than on benchmarks or other games. Normally I would suggest working on bumping up the core clock first before memory and then checking stability because thats the easiest part to focus on at first. Memory can cause distortions and other issues like a BSOD just because you stressed it just enough to cause an issue.
Try moving just the core clocks and voltage up first, then work on the memory once you have that stable.
I'm having an issue connecting to my wireless network with my computer. Things were working fine until a few weeks ago when the wifi on my computer stopped connecting; now I can only get internet through a wired connection (although the fact I can do this is strange to me). My rooommate is not having any issues with the wireless whatsoever. I have a fairly new acer aspire s7 which has no difficulties connecting to any other wireless network while I am at campus or have gone home for the weekend. I'm at a loss as to how to fix this issue as it has become impossible to do any form of research while I am at home. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Posibilities are your wireless signal is not in range or the wireless router is full of user who are connected to it, or it surpasses the user's limit.. how many user's has wifi connected to the wireless router?
PSU issue I think
heres what it is when I first installed this card (had a 500w antec psu) the comp was fine till I played diablo and poof shut off the comp via psu , so decide to get a thermaltake 2 600w and hook tht up now ot plays for a longer time
but does the same thing,I took the card back and got a new one of the same
same thing happens , so I decided to try a different approach and I have a psu I modded for xbox 360 tht is wired to stay on and I ran the card powered by tht and was able to play for hours and only 2 times it shut that psu off suggestions or now a psu tht doesnt get fooled so easy or what is really going on...lol thank you
If you got a different video card and a different PSU, chances are there is something else wrong unless you got very unlucky and got another bad part from one of the two things swapped out.
My guess would be one of the following just from one you said:
The new PSU is bad as well
The CPU is overheating and shutting off
GPU could be overheating and shutting off (Though this is unlikely)
Those are just a few things to check, I would go into the bios and see what temp the CPU is running at while in there and decide if its running above what it should be. If that's not the issue I would try returning the PSU for a different one and see if that fixes the issue. Though the fact that the machine shuts off with 3 different PSU's points to a different part being an issue.
My laptop doesn't work with wifi when I first open it. It will show at the bottom of the screen that it is fully connected and has full bars, but when I open the internet the pages will not open. I must restart the computer and then it will work. How can I fix this?
When the WiFi is active, the laptop NIC should be disabled - - easy - - just unplug the the cable to the router.
What command do I type in Command Prompt if I want to use Last Known Good configuration
Boot into Safe Mode (F8), that's where the option is located
I am having a issue with my new router (Tenda W150D Router), its not giving me access for uploading any files through wi fi on my iphone 5s using app (Wireless Drive), even I tried the same with vlc upload feature in iphone still it doesnt work......
I think the issue is with the firewall in the router which I cannot access normally from the router setup...
guys pls help.. any comments are welcome
Hmm; accessing a website is an outbound action thru the firewall on port 80.
A site with file uploading uses the same port 80 as normally used for surfing the web.
We need more data to analyze the problem
?What URL are you accessing for the upload?
from this "iphone 5s using app (Wireless Drive)", I assume the data moves this way:
ISP==router -- wifi to your 5S: using an app called Wireless Drive?can you confirm this please?
?are you sure you're accessing the router and NOT attempting upload via the cellular connection?
Hello, I'm new here. I'm trying to fix my sons Asus laptop. it won't connect wirelessly but will connect via ethernet cable. device manager has exclamation point beside network controller. I cannot download drivers for it. can you help?
"I cannot download drivers for it"... Why? Can you get the driver from here:
If the driver won't install, the Wifi card may be bad... Something that doesn't happen very often
I hope this is the right section to ask this question in. I'm a big newbie.
I'm having an issue that I have no clue how to solve. There is a specific webpage that I try to view at home with my laptop, and it never loads on Chrome and Firefox, but does on Explorer. But when I take the same laptop to work or school, it does load that website on all browsers. I also have a desktop that stays home, and has the same problem. Its so strange. I don't know if it's a network thing, or an facebook app thing.
I've tried re-installing Chrome, deleting all cookies and caches, disabling all extensions or plugins, and updating Flash and Java. Any ideas?
Mod Note: Facebook game link removed, you are too new to be trusted fully. Problem m ay be solvable without the exact game anyway.
Hey guys I had some contractors doing some work on my house today and they needed to shut the circuit off to the room my computer was in The computer was on at the time so it shut off when the power was cut Now it won t go back on Power button does nothing at all and I don t know if it s the power supply mobo or switch I ve got a power supply tester which causes my computers fans to start up when it s plugged in so the power supply does respond not Power mobo button working... issue? The results are in the attached file It shows LL which means to low to register voltage for the - V line I honestly don t know if I even have that line so I don t know if that s bad I attached the label on my power supply too Would Power button not working... mobo issue? no voltage cause a computer to completely not respond Because the fans DO start up when the power supply tester is plugged in I don t think the switch is the problem because I tried to short the power switch jumpers with a paper clip and nothing happened I also took the CMOS battery out for a while and then tried it again and that didn t work Any ideas on whether I need a mobo or a power supply I don t have an extra PSU around to test with but I may try to find one before ordering a new mobo thanks in advance -mike nbsp
Not the switch. Could be the motherboard or PSU, but I don't have any good insight.
I would unplug the PSU and flip the 120/240V switch to 240V, then flip it back before plugging it in. To me, this doesn't make any logical sense, but over about 16 years of playing with PCs I have seen it work twice.
So my deafult gateway dosnt start with 192.168 but for my laptop it does and my brothers pc does for me it starts with 184.108.40.206 Any Help I cant portforward Help me il try anything and my Router is Technicolor
Can we assume "my laptop it does and my brothers pc does" applies to his pc connected to your router?
login as an admin, get a command prompt and issue these two commands
netsh winsock reset
netsh int ip reset c:\resetlog.txt
I recently bought a powerline adapter to combat my slow wireless speeds and planned on using it for my PC and XBOX 360 when I occasionally use it. The PC install was easy, it was plug and play no problems just installed the latest MSI ethernet drivers and BAM! Wired network, no problem, but today I come home and I felt like playing some GTA Online, so I unplugged the cable from my PC and into the XBOX and it can't connect. I am using a TP-Link AV500 Nano powerline adapter and a BT Home Hub 4 router. I also made a quick video to demonstrate my problem. As mentioned in the video I can use the internet just fine on my PC, the only problem is with the XBOX. Thanks again -hopgop1 NOTE: Video uploaded to YouTube as for some reason TechSpot doesn't support .3GP so I converted it to .MP4 and it doesn't support that either =[ link
Have you seen whether the powerline adapter is compatible to XBOX.
I have an LG Monitor that has blown a capacitor in the ac adapter, I want to order a new one, I can only find replacment models and all the amps are different. after reading alot of forums it seems less amps is bad and more is ok.. so this is my question.. my ac adapter has these ratings....
INPUT - 100-240V- 50/60 Hz 0.7 A (0.7 A)
OUTPUT - 12 V --- 2.0 A (2.0 A)
and the one im looking at on ebay is
INPUT - 100-240V- 50/60 Hz 1.0 A
OUTPUT - 12 V --- 2.5 A
The seller claims it will work fine.. Is this true... Thank you
I believe it will work fine, yes. But please get another opinion before purchasing.
Hi all I m hoping you might be able to guide me in diagnosing what the problem is with my editing workstation Specs Microsoft Windows Professional -bit SP CPU Intel Core i GHz C RAM GB Triple-Channel DDR MHz - - - Motherboard Gigabyte Technology Co Ltd X A-UD Socket C Graphics MB GeForce GTX EVGA C Hard Drives GB Western Digital WDC WD HLHX- JJPV SATA C GB Seamus SATA GB Western Digital WDC WD EARS- Z B SCSI Disk Device SATA C Optical Drives PIONEER DVD-RW DVR- D ATA Device have attached rest of Speccy TXT file I ve had a range of problems from random BSOD to general instability slow downs rebuild, PC issue etc) numerous Help diagnosing (after reinstalls, to very slow internet to HDMI output of video card not working OCCT tests said occt core over maximum value I have formatted and reinstalled Windows twice tested no problems and even reseated ram - which seemed to work for a time Help diagnosing PC issue (after numerous reinstalls, rebuild, etc) When problems started again I bit the bullet and paid someone to check it rebuild update BIOS and reinstall Windows which AGAIN seemed to fix the problems for a time this was doubtless a waste of time and money It s caused so much grief that I d move on and buy an entirely new machine - but I m too stubborn I want to get to the bottom of the hardware issue which is hopefully a component that needs to be upgraded anyway and can get on with my life So I m hoping people can give me guidance to run tests and diagnose exactly what the hell is broken in this box Thanks in advance Morgan nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/help-diagnosing-pc-issue-after-numerous-reinstalls-rebuild-etc.200246/
Hello! I live in a college apartment (so no access to router). When I hook up my ethernet cable to my computer, all of my messengers work and are connected but I cannot use internet browsers. I recently reformatted my computer and was using a wireless adaptor, but here the internet is so slow that there's really no point and for a decent connection you need to be plugged into the wall. The wall connection worked fine until I reformatted.
This happened before when I moved to my first college and had to use the ethernet cable. I've done everything from messing around with internet explorer proxy settings and whatnot, but what did work was something I found in a thread. It instructed me to go somewhere and delete a file that was blocking the internet part, I guess? I deleted this setting/file and the ethernet connection worked just fine afterwards. I can't find this thread (probably not on this website) anymore. Does anyone here know possibly what the file was?
Check for optional Windows Updates, specifically a network driver. The most common name is Realtek.
And/or try installing this driver. - Software: Drivers & Utilities
If still no go, which computer do you have?