Hello Guys Extremely sorry to bother you guys here again with my issue so i was able to fix all my issue with my pc but now i have problem with File Transfer the Speed of a file to Speed with ? System issue File Tranfer Storage Enclosure TR8M+B be transfer from one hard drive to another is at Kbs on a brand new Storage Enclosure System TR M B See the problem is if i cant fix it by Thursday then i will have to return it as it last day to get full refund from newegg com I was testing this unit File Tranfer Speed issue with Storage Enclosure System TR8M+B ? to transfer file from hard drive in my pc to a hard drive in NSA and i notice that file transfer started at low MB s and then it goes down to KB File Tranfer Speed issue with Storage Enclosure System TR8M+B ? s and then stay at that for hours and then it goes down to KB File Tranfer Speed issue with Storage Enclosure System TR8M+B ? s and stay there for hours and then it goes to KB s I left this file transfer for over days and no luck for it to complete I am not using Raid as i will have my software Raid F so at this moment i am trying to get everything working properly before i install software and applications My New unit is Sans Digital -Bay eSATA RAID JBOD Tower Storage Enclosure w G PCIe Card TR M B Black TR M B x Hard Drive Trays Power Cord x eSATA Cable RR Dual-Port eSATA Gb s PCIe x RAID Controller Sans Digital -Bay eSATA RAID JBOD Tower Storage Enclosure w G PCIe Card TR M B Black - Newegg com Here are DropBox Screenshots https www dropbox com sh coiweqm rmb d hEDFmPtyA I have tried to tranfer files from other drive too but the speed was very slow also but transfer completed with no issue as the file where single small file between MB s and MB s Here is my system info also Bus Adapters AMD AHCI Compatible RAID Controller AMD RAID Console HighPoint RCM Device JMicron JMB X Controller RocketRAID SATA Controller Silicon Image SiI SoftRaid Controller VIA VT RAID Controller ASMedia XHCI Controller x Standard Enhanced PCI to USB Host Controller x Standard OpenHCD USB Host Controller x Other Devices VIA OHCI Compliant Host Controller ASUS Disk Unlocker Microsoft Composite Battery USB Input Device Standard PS Keyboard HID-compliant mouse USB Root Hub x Generic volume shadow copy Local Drive Volumes c NTFS on drive GB GB free d NTFS on drive GB GB free e NTFS on drive GB GB free f NTFS on drive GB GB free g NTFS on drive GB GB free h NTFS on drive GB GB free i NTFS on drive GB GB free j NTFS on drive GB GB free k NTFS on drive GB GB free l NTFS on drive GB GB free Drives Gigabytes Usable Hard Drive Capacity Gigabytes Hard Drive Free Space AMD X Mirror RAID SCSI Disk Device GB -- drive s n d a Hitachi HDS C ALA SCSI Disk Device GB -- drive Hitachi HDS C ALA SCSI Disk Device GB -- drive Hitachi HDS ALA SCSI Disk Device GB -- drive s n JK YBJUN F Hitachi HDS BLA SCSI Disk Device GB -- drive Seagate ST DM - YN SCSI Disk Device GB -- drive Seagate ST DM - F SCSI Disk Device GB -- drive WDC WD EARX- PASB SCSI Disk Device GB -- drive WDC WD EZRX- DC B SCSI Disk Device GB -- drive WDC WD EZRX- MMMB SCSI Disk Device GB -- drive Processor gigahertz AMD Phenom II X kilobyte primary memory cache kilobyte secondary memory cache kilobyte tertiary memory cache -bit ready Multi-core total Not hyper-threaded Operating System Windows Enterprise x Service Pack build Install Language English United States System Locale English United States Installed PM Boot Mode Legacy BIOS in UEFI Secure Boot not supported Main Circuit Board Board ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC M A EVO Rev xx Serial Number Bus Clock megahertz UEFI American Megatrends Inc Memory Modules Megabytes Usable Installed Memory Slot 'DIMM ' has MB Slot 'DIMM ' has MB Slot 'DIMM ' has MB Slot 'DIMM ' has MB Can someone please advise Thank you very much
I recommend downloading and running Reimage. It's a computer repair tool that has been proven to identify and fix many Windows problems with a high level of success.
I've used it in the past to identify and fix everything from blue screens (BSOD's), ActiveX errors, corrupt files and processes, dll/exe/sys errors, recover lost memory, Windows update problems, defragging, malware removal etc.
You can download it direct from this link http://downloadreimage.com/directdownload.php. (This link will automatically start a download of Reimage that you can save to your computer.)
Hello also forgot to say this unit work as : Drive Bays eSATA 6Gbps (via Port Multiplier) 8 Bay SATA to eSATA (Port Multiplier) JBOD Enchttp://www.sevenforums.com/hardware-devices/311232-file-tranfer-speed-issue-storage-enclosure-system-tr8m-b.html
I've done no overclocking, no advanced work whatsoever. Every time I try to google my issue, all of the solutions seem to be based around the person with the issue overclocking their system thus causing high tempuratures. This is not that issue.
On to the actual problem, my motherboard reports temperatures of 69c when running any program that takes any worthwhile amount of system resources (and some that don't), in particular, most games. CPU and GPU tempuratures seem far lower, around 30-40c. Assuming the sensor isn't to blame (and it isn't, if the feel of the case is any indication), are there any reliable ways to lower MB tempurature with simple BIOS and power settings?
Running an old F1a55-M (FM1) on Win 7 Home Premium, SP1.
EDIT: The motherboard idles at 47, which also seems high. I've changed locations for better airflow several times and wonder if I just flat-out need a larger case.
Fans running, dust?
Hi everyone A few days ago I replaced my cpu motherboard and hdds on my system OLD System main components Case Antec v Cpu i Mobo Asus onboard realtek mobo low crackling) bk volume (very ud3h sound ac1150 issue - and Gigabyte p x d-e RAM corsair vengence gb x GPU Zotac GTX Boot drive Intel Gigabyte ud3h bk mobo - realtek ac1150 onboard sound issue (very low volume and crackling) gb ssd Win HDD WD TB black New System main components Case Antec v Cpu i k Mobo Gigabyte z x - ud h-bk RAM corsair vengence gb x GPU Zotac GTX Boot drive Samsumg evo gb ssd Win HDD WD Gigabyte ud3h bk mobo - realtek ac1150 onboard sound issue (very low volume and crackling) TB black I was able to clone the ssd and hdd samsung migration for ssd and Easeus todo backup for hdd Initally I had some driver conflict when I Gigabyte ud3h bk mobo - realtek ac1150 onboard sound issue (very low volume and crackling) booted up the computer on the new mobo I managed to uninstall all the old drivers and then used the driver cd to install the mobo drivers and even updated all of them to the latest version I The conflict I m still having is with the back panel audio for the onboard sound I get very low volume and and crackling at certain frequencies tried on both my generic creative speaker and Audio technical headphones When I m plugging in the speaker into the green port and have it plugged in half way or accidentally touch the jack to the I o plate I get really strong loud static noise Here is the list of solution that I tried with no success Updated the Realtek HD Audio Manager app I e the one installed from the driver cd to the latest one Used DPC latency checker and it is showing all greens didn t test it for more than a minute though should I be doing something while the app is on to test for interference Installed Generic Realtek driver for ac codec Disabled C E and EIST in the bios Played with the equalizers on Realtek HD Audio Manager helped to reduce bit of static but its still there and the volume is still very low Disabled all line in devices Checked audio with a ubuntu live cd and the problem still persists does this indicate a hardware issue What I find strange is that my front panel that is connected to the HD audio pins on the motherboard works fine with the same speaker and headphones I still have some more solutions I need to test out like Update the bios currently on F version the latest is F I have a spare asus xonar dg PCI so will try to install it and test if audio will works fine But this is not a permanent solution as I only have one PCI slot which I m using for my wireless card adapter Edimax g Run Memtest can this ever be a problem for sound related issues Driver Sweeper I believe I have properly manually uninstalled all the mobo drivers but going try this app to be sure Can someone please point me in the right direction on how to solve this This is the first time I m installing replacing a mobo and cpu so should check if there is a wiring issue when I replaced all the parts back into the case Please let me know if more information is need to help resolve this I have a few more days left incase I have to RMA the mobo so any pointers would really be helpful before I decide to send it back if at all TIA Sreejit S nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/gigabyte-ud3h-bk-mobo-realtek-ac1150-onboard-sound-issue-very-low-volume-and-crackling.217321/
FIXED The backplate of the video card looked exactly like my old one but it was somehow making my video card not slide down far enough took it off and now its running HUH ZA If there is a big danger in running it so lofty without a backplate message me and let me know If you have a msi g check the damn backplate I bought a nividia off ebay and my mobo does not detect it It lights up but that is it I can send it back but I wanted to know what I can try first I get this message system card My video does my detect not with the install cd when I use the auto driver updater on nvidia and when I manually download the driver from the nvidia site My old radeon worked fine Old card MSI R GAMING G -Bit GDDR This graphics driver could not find compatible hardware GV-N G GAMING- GD nvidia requires and pin connector Mobo z pro asrock CPU k PSU watt ocz sxs What I have done so far Connected the Power Connectors x My system does not detect my video card -Pin x -Pin From my old card to the new card Im using my old power converters could that matter Id use the one that came with the card but a damn wire is hanging out of its area Checked device manager no device Checked bios made sure pci-e x is the primary video card source Checked my bios mobo overview and it says there is nothing in that slot Uninstalled all amd and nvidia driver in the control panel Uninstalled all drivers with gurus free amd and nvidia Display Driver Uninstaller in safemode Reseated the card Googled a lot Im now going to reset the bios I heard I can also update the bios would that even matter am I just trying to hard to make this possibly DOA card work nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/my-system-does-not-detect-my-video-card.216578/
I've got a S1150 system, which - as we all know - has a very limited amount of PCI-Express lanes. I recently invested in a couple NZXT S340 cases, and I find them extremely cramped for cable management. I'm considering dumping my dual SATA3 SSD raids in these computers in favor of M2 SSD's to eliminate some of the cable mess, but I'm wondering how this will affect my graphics card performance, as I believe this would cut my graphics card's PCI-Express lanes down to x8 (3.0), just as if I was using a PCI-Express SSD.
Does anyone have first hand experience with this type of setup?
I am seeking help either immediate help or as soon as someone gets a chance... please.
I bought a usb flash drive (my laptop recognizes it as a generic usb mass storage device) from the library... cheap I know... anyways I was using it prepairing to restore my pc... I removed it without clicking on the safely remove button and now it says cant remove files because its write protected... and it wasnt before... did I mess it up if not then how do I remove a write protection if I have no lock/unlock switch deal? I scaned it for viruses/malware etc... I can view all the files but cant delete them and I wanted to clear them off so I can use it for another purpose... can anyone help please...
insert the USB device, then
control panel->Admin Tools->Disk Management
Your boot drive will show as C:\ and under
Layout will be Partition
File System will show NTFS
How does your USB show up?
Here ya go T, the final product...well probably not
2.2Kw Holodeck 7
Gigabyte GA-990-FXA-UD7 (rev 1.1)
16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2133 MHz
4 X HD 7970 Quadfire
1x Corsiar AX1200W
2x FSP Group X5 500W =1000W
1XNexXxos XT45mm x 360mm Rads
2 x NexXxos XT45mm x 240mm Rads
1x NexXxos XT45mm x 120mm Rads
3X VPP-655 Pumps
1X Phobya DC-12-400 Pump
Koolance 370 CPU Block
4 x Heatkiller GPU X-3 Waterblocks
Rad Fans: Coolermaster Excalibur
Bitspower & Monsoon Fittings
Primochill Advanced LRT Tubing
Case CoolerMaster Cosmos 2
Heatkiller X-3 Multilink Quad Bridge
BitsPower Z-Multi 250mML Reservoir
Eyefinity 3+1 Extended 5760 x 1080-25" Monitors
I did end up going full parallel on the GPU's They go from idle @ 28c to 36c under load (Heaven 4.0)
I have a three month old Dell Dimension GHZ P Gig Ram and a gig SATA Hard Drive When I got the computer I used the files and transfer PC Relocator utility And had in Error system drives did hard Message: disk find Setup not your installed any a bunch of unwanted extras that came with it I m having a Satellite Internet system installed and they wanted a clean install of windows XP So I opened the owner s manual and got out the reinstallation disk and the problems began By the way Dell tech support s only response has been to say gee that s not right and would send a tech sometime after Christmas Anyway heres step by step what I did I boot to the Dell reinstallation disk Error Message: Setup did not find any hard disk drives installed in your system The windows setup screen appears and loads files The next screen says welcome to setup and offers three options -to setup XP press enters To repair XP press R to exit without installing XP press F I press enter and the following message comes up Setup did not find any hard disk installed in your computer Make sure any hard disk drives are powered on and properly connected And any disk related configuration is correct ect Press F to quit It dose this if I try repair also Dell had me check the connections to the HD and Motherboard They re good And debug the hard drive No luck Everything worked fine until I put in the reinstallation disk Any help would be welcome nbsp
During Setup, it will ask you if you need any extra drivers such as SCSI (or SATA in your case). If so, press F6. Now you are in trouble, because SATA drivers come on a floppy and new(er) Dells don't have a floppy anymore. Borrow a floppy-drive from another PC and install that in your Dell.
Setting up with the Dell disks, I'm not sure if they are RESTORE-disks or full XP-disks.
That may cause another problem.
So basically how the title is.
My internet would drop out/freeze. Router doesn't indicate any change in service. I plug my laptop into the modem, and have prime speeds.
Restart the router. Works for awhile.
Reinstalled the firmware manually on the router.
Set the Channel off of "Auto" and put on various options of 9, 10, 11 to avoid clashes with other networks.
Freezes. Now the router indicates there's no connection. Drag the cord out of modem and test. Prime speeds.
Okay, screw this - I went and bought a new router yesterday because, sure, that Belkin one was 2-3 years old. Set it up with same channel settings, etc.
I have a laptop that runs a VPN (for work) that uses it, plus multiple iphones (3) and ipads (2) an AppleTV and a Samsung smart TV.
Like, help me please here.
OK, but lets solve on thing at a time 1) ignore the VPN at work and let's get the home router stabilized.
The mobile devices are difficult to diagnose, so 2) stick with the PC for now.
did you update the ethernet & wifi drivers on the PC?
have you looked to ensure your new router has the latest firmware?
*if* you have a DSL connection to the ISP, do you have the line filters on EVERY device connected to the phone line EXCEPT the line to the modem? *MUST HAVE*
Got to get these right first.
THEN, find the MTU that's right for you AT HOME and set that into the new router:
get a command prompt
ping -l 1500 -f 22.214.171.124
as long as you see Packet needs to be fragmented but DF set., reduce the 1500 by 8 and iterate with the new number
:: record the MTU that works for your ISP at home
The router conf page is accessible using your browser and HTTP://your_router_address/
You need the router password
set the new MTU. Also set a new router password and save the settngs.
The wired connection should be solid at this point.
The wifi should also be better, as long as you avoid other stations with the same channel.
I assume you've see the post re inSSIDER for wifi setup.
I need some professional help.
R9270x BY XFX
NOW, without the graphics card the computer runs fine. When I install the ddriver's for the r9 it will work, but eventually the display driver stopped working makes its way back.
I've ran all diagnostics on the memory and checked temperstures which all turned out to be fine.
I sent the card into xfx and they returned it saying it's fine.
WTF DO I DO MATES. I think it's the card....but that's just me.
As the title implies I m currently having issues the first major issue is that my PC is turning on off and which the second is that my other hard drive suddenly up and Issue Invisible & HDD Computer Grounding disappeared on me My computer started to turn on and off on me for no reason while I was trouble shooting my initial problem of the HDD when I fiddled around inside my case Eventually ripping everything out of the case and quot card-boarding quot the motherboard which it worked and stayed on and as I gradually put everything back together it was all good until I sat the motherboard back onto the brass copper studs that sits inside the frame and screwed it in At that point my computer started to turn on and off again which lead me to believe it s some manner of a grounding issue Computer Grounding Issue & Invisible HDD I have no clue on what to do at this point about going about this should I just get a new case made of plastic My current full tower case is all steel While I was watching a movie which was stored on my second hard drive is started to freeze lag repeat all that good stuff on me It froze my computer up completely and I was force to hard reset the computer when I booted my PC back up I found that my second hard drive had up and vanished on me So I went into my bios and saw it quot working quot I switch to ACHI to see if it ll make a difference but I got a BSoD so I left it at IDE At that point my computer gave me the option to quot repair windoe files quot or start normally Both options made my computer get stuck on the loading screen thankfully safe mode boots up fine So what could had caused this and how may I go about fixing it nbsp
I also swapped out the PSU with a spare I had lying around, didn't get any power from it so I reused my old one. Now I don't have power from that one either. So besides the "missing" HDD and a suddenly a "no longer working PSU "I'm assuming the motherboard is bad, opinions?
Ever since I setup a KVM switch to have 2 computers sharing 1 monitor/keyboard/mouse, I have had monitor problems.
There is a subtle but noticeable wobble/ wavey-ness thing happening across the screen when connected to one of my computers (my AMD).
Also, my display (with AMD computer) has a stretched horizontally look. I have tried different screen resolutions but they all give this stretched look which I didn't have before.
And my AMD used to give 1920 x 1080 as an option for max resolution, but this is now capped at 1600 x 1200.
Please help as this is very annoying & looks awful. The specs of the KVM switch say "Max. Resolution: 1920 x 1440. Bandwidth: 200MHZ"
My AMD computer:
Windows 7 64 bit SP1.
AMD Athlon II X4 620 2.6GHz.
Video card ATI Radeon HD 4350
What is the make and model of the KVM switch you purchased? I have tried lower quality switches at my work and found similar results. Ended up having to get one of the more expensive / better brand ones that solved the issues.
My Dell has been acting up pretty recently (6 months old and still under warranty), and the battery does not charge past 80%. Once it get's near the 80% charge, it immediately fills up to 100%.
I've remembered using the laptop for more than 6 hours under moderate use but now it barely lasts 2 hours.
Please give me some advice because I'm really dependent on this laptop.
You have 6 or 8 cells battery. If 6 it's normall. Should work about 2-max 3 hours when new. On 8 cells could work till 5 h.
Producers give only 6 months of warranty on bateries
I recently got this amazing p monitor for my custom rig and I love it Well most of it There is this problem with the backlight where when the monitor turns on after a while of inactivity the backlight turns on Monitor Backlight ASUS an with Issue VK-248h for a split second Issue with an ASUS VK-248h Monitor Backlight then suddenly goes very dim Issue with an ASUS VK-248h Monitor Backlight The brightness setting Issue with an ASUS VK-248h Monitor Backlight is unchanged kept at a solid yet it s a quarter as bright as it should be I can go into the menu and change the brightness and I can tell faintly that it does adjust but never up to the proper level To remedy the issue I repeatedly turn the monitor off and on until the display finally lights up properly and it stays that way for the entire time I am using it At the start of the session in which I write this post I had to do this at least times before it worked so I finally decided to really look into this problem It seems this is a unique issue as I found absolutely no matching posts on the interwebs by searching with the all-mighty Google Search Is there anyone that can provide some insight as to why this occurs and or how to fix it Thanks for your time nbsp
New theory: Bad capacitors... somewhere. Possibly power supply
After a day at work, observing some coworkers working on used LCD TVs (and working on one myself), I now understand quite a bit more about such things.
I had removed the display from my setup and left it on the floor for a few days. Today, I decided to try it again. The backlight started up perfectly fine, surprisingly. The ASUS screen showed for a couple seconds, then went off, as normal. Then, when it's supposed to activate the selected display input, it shows the screen for just long enough to get half a frame drawn, then goes completely black. Turning monitor off and on repeatedly, and trying different input methods, gave same result. I got it to work once, but at that time the backlight had gone too dim again.
I think now I might know how to fix it, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to take the dang thing apart! Lol.
I'm working on a XP machine. I think its slowness when installing apps (and also when its installation) is because of the HDD issue. Maybe there are bad sectors. I know that using C:\ drive properties -> tools, I can test the C: drive for bad sectors. But how to see the results!? It's wants me to restart the PC. Is there any log file after finishing of the test?
Is there any better way to find and solve the issue please?
The better way is to run a true diagnostic utility like SeaTools. Run a Long Generic test on the drive and see what happens (this will take a while).
If I currently get an average of 20mbps using a linksys n router with comcast as my ISP. If I upgrade to an ac router, and assuming I have ac compatible devices, will I get any significant increase in wifi speed? I wasn't sure if I need to get a faster internet tier from Comcast or not. AC routers promise much faster speeds (400mbps) but comcast says they provide me with 25 tops. Can I just upgrade my router or do I have to pay more to comcast?
If 25mbps is all that comcast is providing, u are doing all u can expect if u are receiving 20 u are doing all u can expect with that plan. changing u'r router is not going to help in the least.
Hi, a friend of mine has dropped off a Mac HD to recover some pictures for him. He supplied the HD and a ProBox HDF-SU2. This I would think to be plug and play but no matter what I do including swapping to known good USB sockets the ext dive is not being seen. Windows is not even offering to install a driver for the ProBox HDF-SU2. Any help gratefully received. TIA
Hi All I have a strange one here I connect to the net via my Belkin router nothing special about the setup of the router My main pc however I have configured to use a static IP for downloading purposes I have used the same IPV settings for a number of years with no dramas Last night I switched on the PC and connected to the Internet but after a few minutes I got the no internet connection symbol yellow triangle I am connected via networking plugs also so tried the see if they were the issue but they are fine I ran the windows troubleshoot wizard and it came back with Your computer is trying to use a DNS server that is incorrect or doesn t exist I removed my static IP details and tried to connect by obtaining IP details automatically but this had no effect I used my phone s internet connection DNS Issue to google this DNS Issue and was advised to try which I then reinput my static ip details but this time putting the google dns settings and I can connect to the net The wierd thing is that my wifi will not connect to the net my DNS Issue question really is do I need to update the DNS setting in my router in order to get wifi working or should I be flushing DNS on pc the wifi is for my Ipad so not a lot DNS Issue I can do on that to connect Making my brain ache a bit sorry for the long post any help or advice would be appreciated Arvon nbsp
Yes, you can set the DNS addresses in the router manually and then every device connected to that router will inherit your settings when they are configured to you DHCP
I m doing this on my Toshiba laptop at the moment and you ll see why later in this post Earlier today I acquired an ASUS Z C notebook and had noticed that the keyboard is acting rather strange Certain keys will also register other keys when pressed Here s which ones react this ASUS Issue Z54C/X54C Mapping Keyboard way letters are not case sensitive U will also register Zero will register registers registers R W registers S ASUS Z54C/X54C Keyboard Mapping Issue I I places a Date Stamp this might be the problem There may be others but I d like to move on to the behavior the way this behaves is if I press the key U then quot u quot or quot U quot will show up depending on ASUS Z54C/X54C Keyboard Mapping Issue if I press Shift or not The same thing happens if I press the key This is the same for all others if I press one or the other of these keys in question the other appears with it At first I thought this was a problem with the copy of Windows that was installed so I installed Windows Tech Preview I was going to do so anyway However this behavior did not go away Looking for help and I d be more than happy to resolve this problem I should note that not all keys behave this way but that the majority of them work fine It s just that this should not be happening to begin with I ve also pulled the keyboard out and inspected it I didn t see any dried fluids or any obstructions in the keys Should I perhaps consider replacing the keyboard Sadly I have no USB keyboards to see if the behavior is isolated to the laptops primary keyboard although using the On-Screen Keyboard doesn t elicit this behavior nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/asus-z54c-x54c-keyboard-mapping-issue.208302/
Have an unusual mark on screen at startup then green lines and pink but otherwise pc ok cannot upload jpeg image for some reason
HI all I am having problems detecting the Xonar Pheobus and have tried all and 5 Rampage Asus Phoebus Xonar issue Asus Extreme the pcie slots with no luck Red and the grey - even the shorter grey slot Have disabled the motherboard s HD onboard Asus Xonar Phoebus and Asus Rampage 5 Extreme issue sound too and still not detected in my devices The pcie cable is connected to the sound card and I have enough PSU to power all - Enermax W When the card is inserted to the grey slots - The red light Asus Xonar Phoebus and Asus Rampage 5 Extreme issue is seen through the control extension box Headphone Microphone Connector Asus Xonar Phoebus and Asus Rampage 5 Extreme issue box jack ports However the green light is NOT seen AND the Xonar Phoebus logo on the card itself is lit powered up However when I insert the card into the red pcie slots these lights are not on One this else I noticed is the card DOES go warm over some time so tells me it is not switched off I tried to install the driver and I get a message no card detected etc etc Is there anyone kind enough to advise me their BIOS settings etc who has managed to get the Xonar to work properly Did you have to adjust any BIOS settings from default to get the card to be recognised Printscreens would be cool if it is not too much of a bother Thank you in advance Kind regards Killershadow nbsp
The question(s) I have is ->
Am I missing anything when attempting to install the sound card? I have tried with no GPU drivers (including the Nvidia sound for the GTX 750 ti sc) / disabled onboard HD sound and still the sound card not detected.
Even in this motherboard, it should detect the sound card regardless of what sound source is set as default and then allow me to install it and set it as default (without messing about with the BIOS)?
Maybe my sound card has died when moving it from the last computer - Static death.....................
Hello All I am having a bit of a strange issue that I have with CPU Motherboard or Strange issue never run into before Yesterday after getting home from the store I booted up my PC and started to play a game although I noticed that I was getting framerate stuttering It seemed to keep dropping a lot throughout my play So I started taking a look at some of my sensor utilities Strange issue with CPU or Motherboard When I opened Asus Probe II I noticed that it was telling me that one of my chassis fans weren t running Okay no problem it must have gone bad I than took at look at the frequency and noticed that my AMD FX- was only running at GHz per core I also checked CPUZ and had the same results So I booted to the bios just to take a look and noticed that it show my Chassis fan WAS running fine and that my frequency was at GHz per core as it should So I though that it must be a fluke Booted back into windows and again same issues So I shutdown and took the side off my case which is also where the Chassis fan it said was running is located Turned the computer back on and noticed the fan was running fine I logged into windows and noticed that seconds after windows logs in that one chassis fan turns off and the CPU underclocks to GHz multiplier All of the other fans in my case still running perfectly GPU running fine HDD s running fine Could it be possible that Asus probe II itself is underclocking my CPU If so what would be causing the fan to shut off My first thought was power-supply but I have no issues when stressing my hardware even in this state I am an IT consultant but have not run into this issue before Any help would be greatly appreciated PC Specs- ASUS m a r Motherboard AMD FX- CPU CoolerMaster HYPER N CPU Cooler Kingston HyperX Blu GB x Galaxy Geforce GTX Ti OC w PowerSupply Cougar Evolution Full Tower Case Samsung gb SSD Let me know if you need any other information nbsp
CPU temperature too high?
So I have a Toshiba Portege r500 with no H/d & a second one for parts. When I went to take the H/D and pop it in I realized the H/D hook-up cables are different. The "parts laptop" has a "FMUSH1" cable connecting it to the sata drive. The newer Portege has a cable labeled " FMUPH2" (I'm assuming for an SSD?)
My Question is....Can easily swap them somehow or is there an adapter/converter possibly?
Thanks in advance for any possible help!
So with more research I'm thinking I have a ZIF Tape (Cable) that previously connected to a 1.8 SSD which I now need to convert to a 2.5 sata connection.
I ordered a 24-Pin ZIF to SATA Adapter Connector Card off eBay. It comes with its own "ribbon" (Tape/cable whatever) as shown in the pic. Will I need to replace the ZIF from my mobo with it? or is it simply in case "you" need it?
Also just wondering could I have swapped out the sata ribbon (Fmush1) with the ZIF ribbon (Fmuph2) where they connect to the MoBo instead? (It's extremely difficult to get to on this model and the "clips" seem very fragile so I avoided attempting it)
You can't buy these any more, and there's nothing on ebay.
Anyone have any ideas or one to sell. please let me know!
Hello I have an old HP Pavilion n that has - GB DDR PC ram modules but they are being reported in BIOS as only being at PC and I am just wondering if this is the best that this system can do with this speed of ram or is there anything that I can do to get it to run at PC Here are the specs from CPU-Z Mainboard Model - ASUS P B -LA rev Chipset - Intel i D rev Southbridge - Intel BA ICH rev Processor Intel Pentium - GHz - Northwood Clocks Core Core Speed - MHz Multiplier - x Bus Speed - MHz Rated FSB - MHz CPU-Z is reporting that both modules are PC DDR but the BIOS is indicating PC The BIOS does not have the ability to change anything regarding clock settings and the board itself has no jumpers to change so any input would be welcome regarding any suggestions if this system can actually get full usage of the PC DDR GB modules or if it can only run at PC because of the Bus Speed I thought that if Speed Ram reporting BIOS not correct in the board had a MHz FSB it would run DDR PC ram Any advice would be appreciated Thanks Brian nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/ram-not-reporting-correct-speed-in-bios.207737/
My pc was getting heated nd fan was a bit noisy.
so cleaned my fan in a shop .when I returned home hardly 10 min my pc worked then shut down
again I went der he saw fan was not moving he pushed it a bit nd it started moving it worked for me till this this evening but again when I shut it down fr a while it gave me the same issue I removed the keypad tried to move the fan with my fingers nd its working now .....
whats the main issue
The fan is old and needs to be replaced.
So I ve owned my P HM gaming laptop for around years now and for the most part I haven t had any issues However when I start my laptop it always defaults to booting off of the ethernet card even after switching my SSD to the position in the bios menu Normally this isn t that much of an issue as I can just cycle through the bios boot options using CTRL Laptop Boot issue ALT DEL The main issue that I am having now is that the last time I was using my laptop I used hibernate instead of the normal quot sleep quot or quot standby quot Now whenever I attempt to start my laptop up the message quot Resume from hibernate quot is on my screen which is normal except it tries to resume using the ethernet card If the laptop is in hibernate evidently I am not able to access the BIOS menu or cycle through my boot drives I have read that a way to fix this Laptop Boot issue might just be taking the battery out and letting any residual power that the motherboard might be running off of fade away over time I read that this normally only takes minutes or so I tried waiting minutes and it Laptop Boot issue didn t work so I just tried again but waited a few hours this time before putting the battery back in and attempting to start my laptop up The laptop is still attempting to boot from hibernate Does anyone know of any way to get to the BIOS menu from the hibernate screen Or does anyone know of anyway to fully shut off my laptop Laptop Boot issue to get rid of hibernate and just start up normally Any assistance would be greatly appreciated nbsp
it always defaults to booting off of the ethernet cardClick to expand...
This means that BIOS is not seeing any HD, marked Active and contains a bootable partition
My graphics card previously got wet and frankly I don t know enough about computers in order to know what part to order for this How can I find the best graphics card for this system Or more simply can someone tell me what is the best card this system can support Information below Field Value Computer Operating System Windows Home Premium Home Edition OS Service Pack - DirectX DirectX c Computer Name STARFISH User Name Patrick Motherboard CPU Type DualCore system? for Best graphics card this Intel Pentium Best graphics card for this system? D MHz Motherboard Name Unknown Motherboard Chipset Unknown System Memory MB BIOS Type Unknown Communication Port Communications Port COM Multimedia Audio Adapter High Definition Audio Controller NoDB Storage IDE Controller Intel R G ICH Family Ultra ATA Storage Controllers - DF SCSI RAID Controller Intel R ICH R DH SATA RAID Controller Disk Drive ST AS Disk Drive WDC WD AAKX- ERMA Disk Drive Generic USB SD Reader USB Device Disk Drive Generic USB SM Reader USB Device Disk Drive Generic USB CF Reader USB Device Disk Drive Generic USB MS Reader USB Device Optical Drive TSSTcorp CDDVDW SH-S A ATA Device SMART Hard Disks Status Unknown Partitions C NTFS MB MB free Input Keyboard Standard PS Keyboard Mouse HID-compliant mouse Network Network Adapter Belkin Wireless Adapter Network Adapter Intel R PRO PL Network Connection Peripherals Printer Fax Printer Microsoft XPS Document Writer USB Controller Intel R G ICH Family USB Universal Host Controller - C NoDB USB Controller Intel R G ICH Family USB Universal Host Controller - C NoDB nbsp
Look for a model number printed on your motherboard, usually printed around the CPU area.
The info you provided only tells us you are using a Pentium D. Most likely an 820 (could also be either 915 or 920) but not positive. In any case this would be an LGA775 platform, which usually has a PCIe x16 slot. But without knowing the model number of the motherboard so we can check, I'm not going to swear on PCIe x16 support. I am leaning toward PCIe x16 support, since you stated having a graphics card.
Error 0x4001100200001012 attempting to boot from the System Repair CD created on a Dell.
Apparently, this is specific to Dell and their Hack with DataSafe. You can use any System Repair CD generated on some other platform and it will give you access to restore your System Image. Google using that error code and you'll find lots of info. A Windows Install disk will work too.
I have a SR cd from another system and it works just fine :whew:
Don't get caught up a creek w/o a paddle - - if you plan on using a System Image to recover a system,
make sure you have the tools which will allow that image to be restored - - DON'T ASSUME!
background: I'm seeing SMART data that corroborates my laptop HD is degrading and I wanted to prove I could restore when the replacement arrives. As this Dell laptop is a pain to open up, I didn't want to go down in flames due to procedural errors or lack of familiarity. ( I'll never by another Dell )
I need help Okay so I hooked up all my parts last night with issue 560ti Crosshair and Video V Asus GPU to my ASUS Crosshair Formula V mobo and Video issue with Asus Crosshair V and 560ti GPU when I boot it will not show any video whatsoever No beeps no video no nothing I have a ti in there right now because I wanted to test it before my new came in that I ordered yesterday Video issue with Asus Crosshair V and 560ti GPU just wanted to see if the mobo was functional and all my other components were working Does anyone know why I would be getting no video I was thinking maybe I need to reset Video issue with Asus Crosshair V and 560ti GPU the CMOS Some people told me to check the BIOS but how do I do that if I have zero video on my screen Any help would be great as I am at wit s end with this stupid computer it has not run right since I moved and it is extremely frustrating putting all this time and money into this thing with no results I used to have a Corsair Liquid CPU cooler but the pump died and I finally got fed up with Liquid Coolers and went with a Noctua heat sink instead Going to do some more testing after work but was hoping to get some tips from you guys I have other ti s I can test to see if that card is just dead but it was like midnight and just decided to give up for the night last night Also My motherboard doesn t have an on-board video port I don t believe I see none at least My PC was up and running with drivers loaded for this exact card before it went down the computer has just been sitting there for months I am using the same hard drive only thing that has changed is the Noctua cpu cooler being in place of the now dead Corsair H All the fans are running the video card fan is running the psu fan is running so it seems like everything is getting power Any help would be greatly appreciated If you need more info please let me know nbsp
Let's do this one step at a time, first no part of any computer lasts for ever. U said u had 2 other video cards, first, see if either one of them will work. If that does not work, it could be the slot in the mother board, try an other X16 slot. but honestly to me it sounds like the mother board is not working if u have a speaker plugged into it and assuming the speaker is working because normally there would be beeps if the motherboard is not sending a video signal.
I replaced the mobo on my Dell 5510. Purchased from Dell. Sticker on mobo says BIOS ver A05. About every other day I get blue screen and physical dump of memory. My system info says my BIOS ver is A07. How do I go about changing BIOS? Is it as simple as pulling battery for 15 seconds? Some have offered this suggestion but I get a little worried at "friends" advice.
Removing the battery won't change the BIOS version. You need to download the version you require from the Dell site. From Windows you "flash" the BIOS. Take your time preparing for this. If anything goes wrong you will wreck your motherboard.
Hey, so I have an OCZ ZT 750 and its one of the units which runs 100% fan noise when ever im doing anything that requires the GPU, ive seen you can run the fan into a molex with a resistor to keep it constant, but what I want to do is, run it to my fan controller, just so I can ramp the fan up if needed, rather than nailing down the performance.
What I found is the fan is a 2 Pin connector, but fan controllers run 3 pins, am I able to run the 2 pin into the 3 pin on the fan controller and have control over it, or does the 3rd pin need to be connected for it to work?
Hello, and thank you in advance.
I'm building a computer for my Dad, and need help choosing the CPU/motherboard. He will only use it for internet browsing, email, youtube, office etc. No gaming whatsoever.
I'm assuming a CPU with built in graphics is best. I've only built higher end gaming machines, and know very little about integrated graphics.
So my question is, what is the best cpu/motherboard combo that isn't overkill for a simple system like this?
I will assume there are no CPU intensive application. And with the assumption make a statement that there are no PC configurations today that will not suffice for these needs.
Anything with dual cores or more should be fine for these needs. If this wasn't the case, people wouldn't be buying tablets for the same purposes.
I just finished assembling my first build. At first it turned on without a hitch, was able to install windows and a few drivers.
I had to restart a few times, which went fine for the first few times, and then it just didn't boot back up. The power button doesn't do anything, the fans don't start, nothing happens.
When I jump the psu, all the fans start, so I'm thinking the issue must be with the mobo..
Here's a list of all the parts I'm using : http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/JFVvD3
First, are any wires touching that might be causing a short such as a wire touching the back of the mobo? Second, I had something similar happen to me a few years ago with a new build. There is a tried and true though often tedious way that can help diagnose possible issues.
1. Remove all hardware except for one RAM stick from the motherboard and this includes Sata and fan connections to peripherals such as your SSD, etc,
2. Now see if the system boots with only the one RAM stick. If it boots then shut down add the second stick of RAM and then reboot. If it boots then repeat by adding a piece at a time.
3. If is doesn't boot then it is either your mobo or your power supply. Also, check to see if your heat sink is seated correctly.
BTW, nice little system there.
My brothers schoolwork laptop is frozen the problem occured like 2 days ago were the laptop seemed to be freezing for a couple of minutes and now when he trys to switch it on
Bios is not booting up.
and the only options he gets is launch in repair safe mode and start windows normally. which end up both the same in a black screen and a little black cursor with nothing to do but move the cursor.
after this happened my first reaction was for a complete format so I tried to install him a new copy of windows but my bootable device isnt even being recognized by the system it always ends up in the same screen for the windows startup.
edit ok so I dug a little more.psh..never had a laptop and found out the bios is on the asus logo screen.....well anyhow I booted up the system from the pendrive and the result is always the same the black screen with cursor only
The laptops hard drive has failed...
I've recently built a new computer for myself and has been running perfect for a few months. A couple days ago whilst gaming/browsing my monitor went into power safe mode and shortly after my computer shut off, I tried to start up again only to have the same problem occur , the only old parts were a graphics card and psu, I just got in a new gpu and installed it successfully. Same problem occurs. All fans are running properly including the heatsink , processor core temps are around 39 , everything seems to be running ok? Thoughts?
Check event viewer to see why it shut down.
Hi, I just installed a gigabyte ga-z77x-d3h into my system (i5 3570), and even after reinstalling windows the computer is very glitchy, it takes ages to come on, freezes, and usb devices don't work half the time.
I'm thinking it's a dodgy motherboard. Any ideas?
Actually my first post was wrong, (this is someone else's computer) reinstalling windows fixed the glitches it just pauses on the windows logo for about five minutes before booting up.
My System Specs
OS Name Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium
Version 6.1.7601 Service Pack 1 Build 7601
Other OS Description Not Available
OS Manufacturer Microsoft Corporation
System Manufacturer MSI
System Model MS-7641
System Type x64-based PC
Processor AMD FX(tm)-4170 Quad-Core Processor, 4200 Mhz, 2 Core(s), 4 Logical Processor(s)
BIOS Version/Date American Megatrends Inc. V17.10, 10/08/2012
SMBIOS Version 2.6
Hardware Abstraction Layer Version = "6.1.7601.17514"
Installed Physical Memory (RAM) 8.00 GB
Total Physical Memory 7.98 GB
Available Physical Memory 4.32 GB
Total Virtual Memory 16.0 GB
Available Virtual Memory 11.4 GB
Page File Space 7.98 GB
I would like to get this graphics card http://www.dabs.com/products/asus-g...rage - Graphics, TV Tuners and I/O - Graphics will my system be able to handle this?
While it can handle it, it will be greatly bottlenecked by the CPU. Also, we need to make sure your PSU can handle it, so if you can post your full system specs including the PSU, HDD, motherboard,etc., that would great.
You can probably upgrade the CPU to an 8350 since it uses the same socket. But you may need to apply a BIOS update. BUT, before we get ahead of ourselves, please post full system specs like said above. Thanks.
Hi I didn't know where to post this
my internet speed been groin crazy
its goes fine then at some point all the speed drop the lights flickers
only in wifi tho
I called my ISP they said it the signals from the wireless phone
called my friend he says its signals from other routers * I live in a building around 16 ap 4 per floor*
both said to connect via either
a lot of my usage is by phone so I use wifi
any one have any solution for it ?
Eliminate the possibilities.
Turn off the wifi, connect to router via cable only. Is it still slowing down? If yes, it's something related to wireless. Then continue troubleshooting.
I already have Windows Xp SP 3 installed on my hard drive. I am buying another hard drive and am planning to install Windows 7 Professional on it without uninstalling Xp from the first one. So, I had 3 queries. Namely:
Is what I'm doing correct or rather should I do this?
If I do it, will I be able to access data (obviously not the softwares, just the data) stored in the first drive while working on Windows 7 Professional?
If what I am doing is not right, can I uninstall windows from the first without losing my files(again, of course except the installed software)?
Thank you to everyone who replies in advance.
P.S. Unrelated question but does Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 @ 3.00 Ghz support Windows 7 Professional 64 bit?
1. Yep, you can do this. Put in the new hard drive, boot from Win 7 install media. Click install, and then select your new drive. Installing the newer OS after the old OS is the appropriate way to do things, it is more complicated if you already had 7 and wanted to install XP. 7 will notice XP is there and you will have a boot menu on boot where you choose 7 or 'earlier version of windows'.
2. Yes. You may have to take ownership if you change your login name/password.
3. If you follow #1, #3 isn't an issue. If for whatever reason everything hits the fan, just as long as you don't format the drive the files will be there. If it ever did come to this I would recommend copying the files to your new HD temporarly while you still have a lot of space on it. Then formatting the old one and putting some or all of the files back if you need the extra space.
Yes, that processor is fine for 7 Pro 64.
So I built my system using this SSD caching It works really well My hard drive is terrabyte and my Cache drive is a gig ssd Lately while a Intel Storage Rapid Technology question.. playing Star Wars the Old repubic I have been freezing Intel Rapid Storage Technology a question.. in game This freezing completely locks the computer I run Teamspeak and I can still push to talk and my friends can still talk and I can talk to them via this during the freeze What is odd is Cnt alt delete will not bring up the control panel to allow me to kill the game I am just stuck Normally I would say this is a Video driver issue I did cleanly reinstall the latest Nvidia driver and this will still occur sometimes Now when I disable RST I never get the problem I can play and play and play When I reactivate RST to maximized I can still play but its like a timer After about or days the Freeze will happen So my RST question is has the driver been updated since when I built my computer and is it possible to update this driver now without having to re-install Windows and all my programs If I am left with having to re-install I am likely to just fork over the money and just buy a gig SSD and keep Windows and or of my favorite games on it and use the Terrabyte drive for Music videos and storage nbsp
Yep, there's 2013 versions for Win7.
My mother in law gave me her old computer because it would start for a few seconds then stop and continue to repeat the process until she unplugged it. I only wanted it for the extra hard drive. After installing the hard drive into my computer (wanting to format it then clone it since it is larger than the one I currently have) it caused my computer to start and stop even being set as a secondary or slave. If I completely unhook it from my computer and start it up again, My normal set up works fine. Any ideas about what could cause this?
There is only one answer, the drive has gone bad. Chances are the rest of the machine may still be good.
Will the old machine attempt to boot without a drive? Does it come up to a boot drive not found error? If it does, the HDD was the whole trouble.
First of all hello from a new user, I have a problem with my computer but I need help to nail it down to one part (I think it's the graphics card, but who am I to tell).
A friend of mine said people over here are very nice and competent so why not try to get help here.
Long story short, I played a game, Velvet Assassin, that is rather buggy (I.e. it didn't let me change the resolution to my native 1680x1050).
After some time the screen started flickering in complete white with some color bars here and there. I thought it was another bug on newer systems and changed the resolution; the problem seemed resolved.
Until my little brother started to play Forge of Empires, that little browser game, where the problem again occured at an even faster rate.
I hope you can help me, I made a short video of the issue, I know it's not of best quality, but maybe it helps.
Thank you in advance
Have you tried updating your drivers? Also could you please post the make and model of your laptop /desktop and the system specs.
I'm really struggling here. I've just purchased some Corsair DDR3 Vengeance Pro Series Red DDR3 Memory with the Specs CAS 12-13-13-35, 1.65V at 2666MHz. I got 2 sets (2x4GB per set, 16GB overall, all 4 slots are occupied). When I choose the XMP profile, the computer fails to post, it resets and then tells me "overclock failed". To get it to boot I set the speed to 2133MHz and it is now stable.
MoBo is an Asus Maximus Vi Hero (Z87) and a Haswell Core i7 4770K with a H60 closed loop on it.
Power supply is a Corsair AX750.
My question is, why can I not hit the advertised speed of 2666MHz? Do I need to send more voltage through them?
Thanks for your help in advance.
Ok, so I just recently upgraded to a Cat6 cord, I needed a longer cord and the only ones being sold where the Cat6 so I had to get it. Before I installed it, I had a Cat5E, my speed listing was about 3.8mbps give or take.. yeah crappy verizon DSL. But after hooking up the Cat6, I'm now getting about 1.2mbps. I'm rather confused on this, cause from what I read and what I know, that shouldn't cause my speed to dive bomb. And I know it's dive bombed even without the speed test, cause everythings slowed down, loading webpages, gaming, it's all miserably slow. So, I'm at a loss, did I somehow install it wrong? Did I not appease some Tech god before doing it right? Or, perhaps a faulty line?
Temporarily use the 5e cable again? See if it goes back to previous speed.
My guess would be this should not happen. The cable I would think is sort of a go or no go situation, meaning it works or it doesn't. I'm sure you can have cables with some 'damage' that work but at reduced capacity, but 5e and 6 should be capable of doing 1000Mbps, so when you are talking about a decline from 3.8 to 1.2 that is minuscule compared to what the cable should be capable of, so I really doubt the cable is at fault. Just a weird coincidence based on the information you've given us.
My dad was putting some paper into his printer and had apparently put the paper in too far. When he tried to print something it jammed up and the printer had abruptly shut off. I have tried leaving it unplugged for a while and plugging it back in however, the printer WILL NOT turn back on at all.
Hi gang. My usb modem HAS to be unplugged then plugged in for it to work?
Even if PC is off when I do this it will automatically start/connect when windows(7) loads and will work normally. If I don't do this I can not get it to work?
'device mngr' shows it as an 'unknown device'?
I have reinstalled it to no avail.
Are you talking about a modem or a usb network adapter?
Hello. my rig is
fx 4100 4.53ghz
amd r9 270
corsair 600w gs600 gaming series psu
ocz vertex 3 90gb boot drive
240gb samsung 840 ssd
500 gb seagate hdd
1866mhz kingston hyperx ram
asus sabertooth fx990 r2.0
so my issue is this. I can overclock the r9 just fine, run benchmarks and whatnot. everything runs stable. I have clocked it as far as 1100 core and 1600 memory. everything ran stable on heaven and 3dmark vantage and things like msi kombustor to check for stability. as soon as I went into a game, it went bsod. so I figured ok. oc too high. I dropped it abit, tried again. same result. I continued reducing the core and memory till it went down to stock, and then it runs stable. any increase in core or memory by even 1 mhz, will cause it to crash in game. drivers are all up to date, bios, things like that all up to date. any suggestions as to why games don't like it? its multiple games as well. me1, 2, 3, swtor, wow etc. thanks
Well if the overclock if causing the issue, chances are it can seem stable but then turn out to not be because a certain area is stressed more than on benchmarks or other games. Normally I would suggest working on bumping up the core clock first before memory and then checking stability because thats the easiest part to focus on at first. Memory can cause distortions and other issues like a BSOD just because you stressed it just enough to cause an issue.
Try moving just the core clocks and voltage up first, then work on the memory once you have that stable.
I m officially out of ideas and I m hoping you kind way of operating notebook system No on installing folk here could help me out I have a Hp notebook whose hard disc I formatted while transfering data from it to my computer so I could do a fresh OS When I returned the hard disc into the notebook I found No way of installing operating system on notebook that I could not install Windows by any medium I tried plugging in an external DVD reader and installing windows like I did the first time on this notebook but No way of installing operating system on notebook it would not read from the device BIOS recognises it only as USB LEGACY SUPPORT When I tried installing windows from an USB like I did many times on my computer the screen would freeze when I pressed any key to No way of installing operating system on notebook boot from USB I tried changing USB ports for the devices I used it did not help and I tried changing USB memory sticks from which I booted but alas no success I don t know if there is a way of transfering the files from the dvd onto the hard disc make it bootable somehow and then install the OS on the hard drive the same one I also tried installing other OS using the same methods Windows and XP but have had the same problems P S I haven t tried preinstalling a system on the hard drive on another computer and then inserting the HD into the notebook hoping it would boot I tried that once on a comuter and have had no success Please do help cheers nbsp
Does this help ?
or this ?
I'm having an issue connecting to my wireless network with my computer. Things were working fine until a few weeks ago when the wifi on my computer stopped connecting; now I can only get internet through a wired connection (although the fact I can do this is strange to me). My rooommate is not having any issues with the wireless whatsoever. I have a fairly new acer aspire s7 which has no difficulties connecting to any other wireless network while I am at campus or have gone home for the weekend. I'm at a loss as to how to fix this issue as it has become impossible to do any form of research while I am at home. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Posibilities are your wireless signal is not in range or the wireless router is full of user who are connected to it, or it surpasses the user's limit.. how many user's has wifi connected to the wireless router?
PSU issue I think
heres what it is when I first installed this card (had a 500w antec psu) the comp was fine till I played diablo and poof shut off the comp via psu , so decide to get a thermaltake 2 600w and hook tht up now ot plays for a longer time
but does the same thing,I took the card back and got a new one of the same
same thing happens , so I decided to try a different approach and I have a psu I modded for xbox 360 tht is wired to stay on and I ran the card powered by tht and was able to play for hours and only 2 times it shut that psu off suggestions or now a psu tht doesnt get fooled so easy or what is really going on...lol thank you
If you got a different video card and a different PSU, chances are there is something else wrong unless you got very unlucky and got another bad part from one of the two things swapped out.
My guess would be one of the following just from one you said:
The new PSU is bad as well
The CPU is overheating and shutting off
GPU could be overheating and shutting off (Though this is unlikely)
Those are just a few things to check, I would go into the bios and see what temp the CPU is running at while in there and decide if its running above what it should be. If that's not the issue I would try returning the PSU for a different one and see if that fixes the issue. Though the fact that the machine shuts off with 3 different PSU's points to a different part being an issue.
What command do I type in Command Prompt if I want to use Last Known Good configuration
Boot into Safe Mode (F8), that's where the option is located
Ok guys. I am planning to build a system(of course a PC)and I really wanth to know is it worth it, I want to hear your oppinions.
CPU-AMD Athlon X4 760K
MB-MSI A88XM E35
GPU-MSI R7 260X
RAM-Corsair Vengeance 8GB DDR3 1600Mhz
HDD-500GB WD Caviar Blue
Case-I am still thinking about it, maybe Cooler Master K280
I am curious are these parts all compatible and can I run Battlefield 3 on ultra with this?
Ok guys. I am planning to build a system(of course a PC)and I really wanth to know is it worth it, I want to hear your oppinions.
CPU-AMD Athlon X4 760K
MB-MSI A88XM E35
GPU-MSI R7 260X
RAM-Corsair Vengeance 8GB DDR3 1600Mhz
HDD-500GB WD Caviar Blue
Case-I am still thinking about it, maybe Cooler Master K280
I am curious are these parts all compatible and can I run Battlefield 3 on ultra with this?
Thanks guys. Click to expand...
Well you will not get a smooth 60 FPS on Ultra in BF3 with this system. So I would say no you cannot run it on ultra since at the 1080p realm the card averages above 30FPS on ultra.
If you want a system to run BF3/4 on ultra, might we here your budget so we could help you pick out a better parts list?
I am having a issue with my new router (Tenda W150D Router), its not giving me access for uploading any files through wi fi on my iphone 5s using app (Wireless Drive), even I tried the same with vlc upload feature in iphone still it doesnt work......
I think the issue is with the firewall in the router which I cannot access normally from the router setup...
guys pls help.. any comments are welcome
Hmm; accessing a website is an outbound action thru the firewall on port 80.
A site with file uploading uses the same port 80 as normally used for surfing the web.
We need more data to analyze the problem
?What URL are you accessing for the upload?
from this "iphone 5s using app (Wireless Drive)", I assume the data moves this way:
ISP==router -- wifi to your 5S: using an app called Wireless Drive?can you confirm this please?
?are you sure you're accessing the router and NOT attempting upload via the cellular connection?
I have two WD 3tb external drives. They both work but only one at a time. I am running Windows 7. I have renamed both drives but still no go. I have previously have had a 2tb and one the 3tb drives running at the same time with no problem. I had to upgrade to the 3tb from the 2tb because of the size of my projects I am working on. Does anyone have a solution?
Hello, I'm new here. I'm trying to fix my sons Asus laptop. it won't connect wirelessly but will connect via ethernet cable. device manager has exclamation point beside network controller. I cannot download drivers for it. can you help?
"I cannot download drivers for it"... Why? Can you get the driver from here:
If the driver won't install, the Wifi card may be bad... Something that doesn't happen very often
I recently built this computer see other a thread on building a PC using Windows on a ssd drive and I used my sata drives for storage audio video The other drives folders using Can't 7 storage create Windows on drives are from my old system and they were set up for RAID I re-formatted the drives but now they automatically create a system info folder and a recycle bin folder I don t know why but Can't create folders on storage drives using Windows 7 I can t create a folder on these drives They are patitioned NTFS Does this have something to do with the RAID configuration from my old system I need to create folders to manage my projects but it will not allow it Also I installed Norton on the system I am using the internet for downloading programs I need once everything is going smooth I will no longer access the web with this PC The Norton has an error on it and when I try to fix it it gets stuck on trying to optimize the storage disk E My SSD is drive C with a partition D for B U the next drive is E Does anyone know what I am doing wrong Thanks to anyone who can speak to this problem nbsp
Which RAID Configuration are you in? I think you may have have it set up incorrectly. Depending on what RAID you are using will depend on how your drives can be used. Let us know what RAID you are running which you should be able to find this in your RAID control panel when you boot into it. Thanks.
Hey guys I had some contractors doing some work on my house today and they needed to shut the circuit off to the room my computer was in The computer was on at the time so it shut off when the power was cut Now it won t go back on Power button does nothing at all and I don t know if it s the power supply mobo or switch I ve got a power supply tester which causes my computers fans to start up when it s plugged in so the power supply does respond not Power mobo button working... issue? The results are in the attached file It shows LL which means to low to register voltage for the - V line I honestly don t know if I even have that line so I don t know if that s bad I attached the label on my power supply too Would Power button not working... mobo issue? no voltage cause a computer to completely not respond Because the fans DO start up when the power supply tester is plugged in I don t think the switch is the problem because I tried to short the power switch jumpers with a paper clip and nothing happened I also took the CMOS battery out for a while and then tried it again and that didn t work Any ideas on whether I need a mobo or a power supply I don t have an extra PSU around to test with but I may try to find one before ordering a new mobo thanks in advance -mike nbsp
Not the switch. Could be the motherboard or PSU, but I don't have any good insight.
I would unplug the PSU and flip the 120/240V switch to 240V, then flip it back before plugging it in. To me, this doesn't make any logical sense, but over about 16 years of playing with PCs I have seen it work twice.
Can processor speed be increased without changing or removing any harddware
Depends on your specs and what you mean by increase.
Some processors are unlocked and can be over-clocked by increasing the processor frequency multiplier (which is multiples of the system bus frequency). This only effects the stability of the processor if clocked to high.
Many systems even if the processor is not unlocked, can still be overclocked by increasing the system bus frequency. Changing this frequency effects everything in the system, which can cause system instability with anything.
System builders will lock both system bus and frequency multiplier, by customizing the system BIOS. Limiting the BIOS is the number one reason, I do not like prebuilt systems.
I bought a Samsung 840 SSD (120GB) for my gigabyte GA-770T-USB3 motherboard. I am unable to install win 7 64bit on it. It is a SATA SSD.
I have tried ACHD mode in the BIOS, I have tried IDE mode. The drive works as I have tested it as an external drive on other computers.
I bought the drive specifically to be used as a primary drive.
My regular hard drives work fine on the motherboard.
Well, first of all, your motherboard only supports 3GB/s and the 840 is a 6GB/s drive. Just by that you won't really get your moneys worth. And how so are you unable to install? Also can you please list your system specs?
Recently, I need more speed for my computer.
Basically I want upgrade hardware but I am not expert: I need some advice.
I am using my computer for Computer Animation: Mostly Autodesk Maya.
I am in the middle of learning Animation Part and realize if I am going to use MentalRay with Animation,
I have to wait a long time [I believe].
Currently my computer's spec:
ASRock P67 EXTREME 4
8GB of RAM
GTX 560TI of 1GB
Which hardware should upgrade ?
Hi all I m hoping you might be able to guide me in diagnosing what the problem is with my editing workstation Specs Microsoft Windows Professional -bit SP CPU Intel Core i GHz C RAM GB Triple-Channel DDR MHz - - - Motherboard Gigabyte Technology Co Ltd X A-UD Socket C Graphics MB GeForce GTX EVGA C Hard Drives GB Western Digital WDC WD HLHX- JJPV SATA C GB Seamus SATA GB Western Digital WDC WD EARS- Z B SCSI Disk Device SATA C Optical Drives PIONEER DVD-RW DVR- D ATA Device have attached rest of Speccy TXT file I ve had a range of problems from random BSOD to general instability slow downs rebuild, PC issue etc) numerous Help diagnosing (after reinstalls, to very slow internet to HDMI output of video card not working OCCT tests said occt core over maximum value I have formatted and reinstalled Windows twice tested no problems and even reseated ram - which seemed to work for a time Help diagnosing PC issue (after numerous reinstalls, rebuild, etc) When problems started again I bit the bullet and paid someone to check it rebuild update BIOS and reinstall Windows which AGAIN seemed to fix the problems for a time this was doubtless a waste of time and money It s caused so much grief that I d move on and buy an entirely new machine - but I m too stubborn I want to get to the bottom of the hardware issue which is hopefully a component that needs to be upgraded anyway and can get on with my life So I m hoping people can give me guidance to run tests and diagnose exactly what the hell is broken in this box Thanks in advance Morgan nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/help-diagnosing-pc-issue-after-numerous-reinstalls-rebuild-etc.200246/
Hello! I live in a college apartment (so no access to router). When I hook up my ethernet cable to my computer, all of my messengers work and are connected but I cannot use internet browsers. I recently reformatted my computer and was using a wireless adaptor, but here the internet is so slow that there's really no point and for a decent connection you need to be plugged into the wall. The wall connection worked fine until I reformatted.
This happened before when I moved to my first college and had to use the ethernet cable. I've done everything from messing around with internet explorer proxy settings and whatnot, but what did work was something I found in a thread. It instructed me to go somewhere and delete a file that was blocking the internet part, I guess? I deleted this setting/file and the ethernet connection worked just fine afterwards. I can't find this thread (probably not on this website) anymore. Does anyone here know possibly what the file was?
Check for optional Windows Updates, specifically a network driver. The most common name is Realtek.
And/or try installing this driver. - Software: Drivers & Utilities
If still no go, which computer do you have?
I m working one replacing our file server at work The one we currently have was built around and is starting to show its age So I m thinking new server time The server will be for a copy shop that specializes in house plans and construction plans We store lots of large pdf and tiff files Also have a full service sign shop so lots of Illustrator and Photoshop files - may of the raster graphics are New server file FreeNas quite large ft x ft sign dpi takes up a lot of space New FreeNas file server The server will need to connect to - computers at any one time with upto printers amp copiers active on the network at any one time I already have a fairly decent switch with one port having gigabit Ethernet that the file server will be plugged into and there reset of the ports being megabit Ethernet ports of the files we work with are storage on the file server - form house plans to large commercial building plans to customer artwork and designs for both small format printing and large format They are loaded modified saved and printed while on the server I strongly discourage anyone storing files locally as there are no backups on the individual computers only on the file server Both local and through Crashplan Anyways onto the hardware I already have the process from another project that didn t pan out Intel Xeon E - V Ivy Bridge GHz Mobo SUPERMICRO MBD-X SCL-F-O Case Fractal Design Define R PSU Thermaltake Toughpower Grand TPG- M W ATX Ram Kingston GB x GB -Pin DDR SDRAM ECC Unbuffered DDR Server Memory Model KVR D E SK G HDD s Seagate NAS HDD ST VN TB x I plan to put the HDD into a Raid-Z which should give me about TB of space I have built several gaming computers and graphic design computers before but never a server I think I have a fairly good built here but would certainly welcome input from someone with more experience in this area than me nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/new-freenas-file-server.200039/
Is it normal for the fan speed on my Radeon 4800 to be 0 when the card temperature is 71 degrees C?
Download MSI Afterburner, see if you can manually change the fan speed.
I have a problem with a batch of Dell optiplex 980's, for some reason the Main boards fail at a alarming rate.
According to Dell it is the memory controller that fails.
Error Lights 1,3,4 are on nothing on screen, power led solid blue about 10 error beeps!
Dell tech replaced the main boards and all is fine for a while but same problem persists.
Also according to Dell level 6 tech, it could be over heating, I had some fun proving them wrong, two PC's sealed in a box , hammering them, Temp between 85 Celsius - 90 Celsius in the sealed enclosure, optical drive started melting, cooled the PC's for a day and powered back on, no problems!!
Does any one out there maybe have a issue similar to this on the optiplex 980, main board failures?
Dell Optiplex 980 Lights 134 on no screen
Yes I have exactly the same problem. Turned PC on this morning lights 134 on plus blue power light but no screen at all. Still under warranty, phoning dell in the morning - I will keep you posted
After Broni s series of attempts to help me in THIS THREAD he suggested that I may have a video chip or motherboard issue NOTE I am on issue motherboard Possible a Chromebook now and am trying to clean my fiance s laptop He just got it back from a local tech shop on windows reinstall - he downloaded some nasty viruses via email attachments we believe BAD BAD BOY and I tried to reinstall windows on my own times but the acer discs would not complete the reinstall so we took it to the shop By he d managed to get reinfected but I don t know if it was residual from the previous infection My latest thread to him following his instructions to go into System Recovery mode was After some Googling re not being able to start the Acer the only way I could figure Possible motherboard issue out how to get past the screen with several vertical lines comprised of the little horizontal lines like my earlier video shows let s call it my HVLinePattern for shorthand was to take out battery for over minutes while unplugged the whole time press down power for seconds plug back in reboot and I could F and F but NOT F At some point I got a single set of short beeps cpu failure wild guess per http www fixya com support t -acer aspire laptop problems booting I cannot seem to reproduce these beeps tho I tried to let the laptop Possible motherboard issue start up in regular mode and kept looping the acer logo with options to F or F at the bottom vs a brief flash of black screen until I powered it down with the power button I rebooted tried to F and got what I interpret to be long short beeps immediately followed by long short beeps immediately followed by long short beeps immediately followed by the HVLinePattern screen I powered down and rebooted then hit F chose boot by disc took a screenshot but it s in video format oops can add later if necessary hit F and changed to boot order screenshot on my google drive -bit ly foRTDf put my windows install disc in the drive recovery disc of crossed my fingers rebooted got what I interpret to be long short beeps immediately followed by long short beeps immediately followed by long short beeps immediately followed by the HVLinePattern screen I then took out battery for over minutes while unplugged the whole time pressed down power for seconds plugged back in rebooted and long short beeps immediately followed by long short beeps immediately followed by long short beepsimmediately followed by the HVLinePattern screen I rebooted a few times and shot a little video LINK ON YOUTUBE while I observed the same pattern of beeping Riveting stuff Click to expand As I expressed to Broni I m not terribly optimistic we ve already began the process of shopping for a replacement Now that I know the beeps have a significance I m a bit agitated that the tech shop ignored the HVLinePattern screen and the beeps they likely also heard Oh well At any rate if you have any insights I d be so very appreciative If not I truly understand that my fiance managed to do too much damage by not getting help quickly enough and or by clicking on an especially malicious piece of malware We just hope we can take steps to avoid it again in the future Thank you nbsp
Sorry! must've been half asleep when I posted this under MOBILE COMPUTING ... meant to put it in PROCESSORS AND MOTHERBOARDS and just did so. If there's a way I can delete my original post above, let me know so I can learn the RIGHT WAY to take advantage of this valuable resource.
Moderator note: Irwynn, I moved your post here to a more appropriate subject forum IMO.
I have enabled RAID on my HDD and in the BIOS and finally put in a SSD 120gb that works. Now I don't know how to actually run the Intel Rapid Storage utility that I did do once before.
I downloaded the files from Microsoft but like so many Windows 7 (64-bit) files there's no instruction of where to put them. A self installation would've been handy.
So does anyone know how to set up IRS inside Windows 7? It's something to do with Administrative Tools but there's nothing showing in that menu when I go to Disk Management.
Sounds simple but everyone seems to assume you set this thing up automatically.
This is the setup as it shows from boot up.
I managed to find the setup program on this link https://downloadcenter.intel.com/De...apid+Storage+Technology+(Intel®+RST)&lang=eng
After reboot I now get a separate Intel Rapid Storage Technology item on my menu but I can't see any command to accelerate the main C: drive using the SSD.
Anything I need to do extra?
I now get this screen using the program:
You can see it's BLANK!
What am I doing wrong as there are no commands to accelerate the main HDD?
Hi Have a new Dell XPS th gen i The motherboard is Intel Series C - Z I have one TB Seagate drive which has Windows on it and two WD active but 1 see does RAID it? not Rapid Storage Intel TB internal hard drives I formatted both WDs and selected RAID in BIOS I selected the WD HDs to create a RAID array with CTRL I Windows didn t recognize them so I went to disk management and created a simple volume The volume was formatted not quick format and now it shows as Healthy Partition I guess it is ready to use because now Windows Explorer RAID 1 active but Intel Rapid Storage does not see it? shows it as one HD TB in size My question is Intel Rapid Storage keeps popping up the you may have an issue with your hardware I go take a look at it and the only drives that are shown are the original TB system drive and the DVD drive No sign of RAID 1 active but Intel Rapid Storage does not see it? the RAID volume I hit refresh but it does not show up I go to System Report and all HDs show up What do you think is happening How can I have Rapid Storage show the RAID volume I already updated Rapid Storage to the latest version Thank you in advance Below is what the System Report shows System Report System Information OS name Microsoft Windows OS version System name WINDOWS-U I N System manufacturer Dell Inc System model XPS Processor GenuineIntel Intel Family Model Stepping GHz BIOS Dell Inc A Intel Rapid Storage Technology enterprise Information Kit installed User interface version Language English United States Driver version ISDI version Storage System Information Controller name Intel R Series C Chipset Family SATA AHCI Controller Type SATA Mode AHCI Number of SATA ports Number of volumes Volume Volume Number of spares Number of available disks Rebuild on Hot Plug Disabled Manufacturer Model number Product revision Direct attached disk Z D P XK Direct attached disk WD-WMAWP Direct attached disk WD-WMAWP Disk on Controller Port Status Normal Type SATA disk Location type Internal Size GB System disk Yes Disk data cache Enabled Command queuing NCQ SATA transfer rate Gb s Model ST DM - CH Serial number Z D P XK SCSI device ID Firmware CC Physical sector size Bytes Logical sector size Bytes Disk on Controller Port Status Normal Type SATA disk Location type Internal Size GB System disk No Disk data cache Disabled Command queuing NCQ SATA transfer rate Gb s Model WDC WD FAEX- BA Serial number WD-WMAWP SCSI device ID Firmware D Physical sector size Bytes Logical sector size Bytes Disk on Controller Port Status Normal Type SATA disk Location type Internal Size GB System disk No Disk data cache Disabled Command queuing NCQ SATA transfer rate Gb s Model WDC WD FAEX- BA Serial number WD-WMAWP SCSI device ID Firmware D Physical sector size Bytes Logical sector size Bytes ATAPI device on Controller Port Location type Internal SATA transfer rate Gb s Model TSSTcorp DVD -RW SH- DB Serial number S Q YBD ANS Firmware D nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/raid-1-active-but-intel-rapid-storage-does-not-see-it.199550/
I have a 2TB My Book Live that I and my housemates use to store media. Initially I was the primary contributor to the drive, and at that time there were no issues. Eventually, someone else began adding files to the server. Since then, any folder that someone else has added files to cannot be accessed by me unless I am logged in as a guest. If I log in as an administrator the folders show up but are greyed out. This only happened with one user. I am running a Mac, and they were using Windows, but other Windows users have added files without causing this issue. I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this, and if anyone knows of a workaround other than always logging out as administrator when I want to access those folders.
Thanks for any help
This appears to be an issue on how the drive was formatted and hard disk permissions. Before I go through a bunch of steps to fix, since this is an older post, is this still an issue or have you resolved it?!
Post back please.
OK, so I have a stable network connection through my modem at all times and of which is currently hard wired to my desk top. Every hour or so I seem to lose connection to the internet through my pc but the modem still shows a stable signal (online light stays on) I run the trouble shooter for internet and get nothing most times so I end up having to re-boot the pc to get connection back. I'm not the most tech savy so any suggestions on how to get this fixed step by step instructions would be VERY helpful !
First I would try replacing the Ethernet cable being used to connect the modem & PC. Next, if there are other "LAN" ports in the modem, plug into a different port. After that I would try pinging the default gateway (ip address of the modem) with an infinite ping and watch to see if there are dropped packets. if there are multiple dropped packets, then it could be a bad network card in the PC or a bad port in the modem.
to infinite ping, open the command prompt and type the following:
ping <ip address of modem> -t (c:\ping 192.168.1.1 -t)
to make the ping stop press: Control C look at the results and see if you have dropped packets. Here's a look at mine after 10 pings
C:\>ping 192.168.10.1 -t
Pinging 192.168.10.1 with 32 bytes of data:
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Ping statistics for 192.168.10.1:
Packets: Sent = 10, Received = 10, Lost = 0 (0% loss),
Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:
Minimum = 0ms, Maximum = 0ms, Average = 0ms
Hope this helps, post back!!
I have a SONY Handycam that uses MP120 8mm Video Cassettes. I used this Handycam to tape home videos. When I use the playback feature on the Handycam it seems as if it is playing back in a slower speed. When I connect the Handycam to my computer and play back, it does the same thing. It is as if the camera was recording at a wrong speed. Is there any way I can control the speed of the video camera via computer, so that I can get the home videos transferred to DVD?
So I just installed my 8350 about two days ago and I just found out that it isn't running to its full potential. It's running at 2812 MHz. when it should be running at at least 4k MHz. I tried running my game to see if it will go up and maybe its just idle to save power but that did not work. Then I went into my bios and turned off all my C-State (c1e, c6 are the only two I have). And that did not do the trick and I have ran into a brick wall. Please help me.
I have 3 possible solutions to the issue: 1) The CPU is flawed. 2) You are in a power saving Windows state. 3) Your CPU is running hot, which will throttle its speed to something lower.
In order to check whether your PC is in a power saving mode, go to the start menu and type in "power options". Choose the one listed under "control panel". Once you click it, it should bring up a window that tells you what power state you are in. Choose the "Balanced" plan if it is in power saving mode and see if that helps.
Secondly, download and run RealTemp and tell me what the CPU temperature is at idle and when gaming.
Hey I just bought a new
video card http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130680
I did not replace my HDD and the are 3GB not 6 GB as this board supports but are SATA and I have nothing special starting up beside the basic items and AVG 2013 and magic ISO which I had all this on my old system. I am running windows 7 and it takes this machine almost 5 min to boot up it just sits at the windows display screen. I never overclocked anything but I thought this upgrade would be faster than my 4 year old system that this replaced, not slower! OK so any ideas? Would the 6GB SATA HDD drive make that much of a difference?
6GB HDD? Dude what, that's ancient.
Get a new HDD, or a cheap SSD - you'll really see it fly.
I am new to upgrading my PC, but I have some experienced friends and I have stumped them all with my issue. I installed a new MSI Twin Frozr III R7850 graphics card in my HP Pavillion Desktop, I have a PCIe x16 2.0 and the card uses 3.0, however from research that should not be my problem. I installed the card and two startups in a row I got 8 1 second beeps. On the third startup however I got nothing, it just started up, no picture and obviously not loading any programing, but no beeping. I have tried the HDMI and DVI ports that the graphics card uses and I still have nothing. My computer, however, runs perfectly fine when I do not have this new graphics card powered. Am I doing something wrong, or is my card just dead?
Well ill go through a few basic things:
First did you hook up both 6 pin connectors?
Second what video card was installed previously, if it was NVidia, did you remove the previous drivers.
Third, have you tried different slots on the motherboard for testing, also does the motherboard have onboard video.
Try these solutions and lets go from there.
I'm having an issue with the keyboard for my Toshiba Satellite P775-S7320. Put plainly, keys have started triggering other keys, as if both keys were pressed at the same time. Nothing was spilled on the keyboard, but now, A and Tilde trigger one another, and the same for 1 and 2, Q and S, W and Tab, X and Capslock. The only exception to this is Z and \. Z will trigger \, but \ will not trigger Z. I've popped off the keys and cleaned them with compressed air, I've rebooted my computer several times, and am unsure of where to go from here.
Try hitting the NUM LK/SCRN LK key
I have a Dell Latitude D620 laptop that I bought in 2006 and it runs EXTREMELY slow, whether I am on the Internet or just doing basic tasks in Windows or MS Office. It has Windows XP, some basic software (like MS Office), and only a few files (because the hard drive crashed last year, so I only put a few files back on it, after installing the new hard drive). I know it's relatively old, but is there ANYTHING I can do to increase the speed of the computer, without buying additional memory? Any help I can get with increasing the speed will be greatly appreciated.
Also, I don't know if this is a different issue, but sometimes the laptop seems to get too hot (at the bottom) after being on for too long.
Thanks in advance.
First, make sure your vents are clear of dust. Heat can cause all kinds of issues. Do you have a cooling pad?
Second, have you scanned for infections?
Hello, I have a aspire 1430G desktop that has an AMD E-450 APU and I recently upgraded the PSU to support my also recently gained Gigabyte GT610. When I place the GT610 into its PCI slot and turn it on I get a black screen that says no input detected. When I remove the graphics card my computer runs like normal, and now im stuck with not a clue in the world of what to do to get the GT610 to work with my desktop. Any suggestions of what to do?
Are you connecting the monitor to the card? In order for the card to work the monitor must be connected to a port on the card.
If not the reason for the black screen is the integrated graphics is disabled when installing a dedicated graphics card.
I have a Dell Inspiron with Windows Home A few days ago while watching a video on ESPN com an error message popped up saying I had an issue with my video card and then my computer froze and restarted itself before I can write down what the error message said Now when I turn on my computer I get to the screen to type in my username and password and get to my desktop but before the computer is fully loaded it freezes Everything on my desktop comes up normally with all the icons and background I can start my computer in safe mode and tried a system restore to no avail Can anyone help with my issue or send me in the right direction I did notice that under safe mode when my screen saver is supposed to come on I get this message quot The screen save can t run because it requires a newer video card or one that s compatible with Direct D quot Don t know if that is related Thanks for the help Card Video Issue Possible nbsp
This laptop has Intel HD Graphics. It is called on-board graphics permanently part of the motherboard and it is not a video card. The graphics driver might have become corrupted or the graphics chip might have overheated
Hey guys. I am doing a project that compares the relationship between population and internet speed. I was really hoping that you guys would help me out and provide some data for me. Please leave comments with the following information
What's your up/down speed? (speedtest.net results preferred)
What's your local area population?
What's the population of the nearest city?
Any replies would be great, thanks all.
I'm pretty sure there's a thread for this already - I'll link it when I get a chance to search.
I issue An logins with user have a former company PC Earlier I was attempting to remove the company An issue with user logins domain from it so that I didn t have to An issue with user logins log in as the previous user every time just to get to the desktop So I changed the computer name right click my computer properties computer name I then clicked on Network ID and set to this computer is for An issue with user logins home use and then it went wrong I restarted the computer as instructed and tried to log on as the user as before but it is telling me the password is incorrect The username is correct and so is the password It s clear that whatever I did with the Network ID has caused this I have logged on as administrator but need to access the other user due to the saved files on there etc Can someone help me revert back access that user account from admin Is there a way to completely detach the PC from the previous domain so that it is like a normal home PC with no log in Thank You nbsp
Administrator account has permission to access files from other users. Just go to the C:/Users section or whatever.
Hi Everyone - I occasionally have to share a large file between one person and another for work I was using yousendit which worked site large closed Reliable Yousendit needed... file-sharing fine they have changed to be hightail and they have a blog - at their blog there are many comments circa oct about it now not working and being buggy So I don t want to go with that I am looking for current suggestions of a site for file sharing I am willing to pay a modest fee month like to know it will work well and Reliable large file-sharing site needed... Yousendit closed not junk up anyone s computer with any trashy downloader and is very simple to use - I cannot spend a lot of time teaching people with various levels of web savvy and computer savvy how to make an acct log in work some elaborate quot unique quot interface and so on I would prefer a service where an email goes to the recipient s email address they click on the link and from that easily select an option to download I am not sharing burned CDs or DVDs - I just need to share work-related audio recordings from the person recording to a transcriber When I look at reviews on the web it seems that services change a lot over time so I don t want to go for what had great reviews a year ago Please help with suggestions -Thanks nbsp
Look at shutterfly.com
Alright this is really driving me kinda nuts I recently upgraded from a Pentium Dual Core ghz to AMD A - K ghz Quadcore Gigabyte F A M D H GB DDR RAM PowerColor HD GB temp issue A8-5600K monitoring TB HDDs Cooling A8-5600K temp monitoring issue info Aerocool Vs running stock heatsink intake mm fans x facing CPU side x bottom x front facing HDDs and exhaust mm fan at the back And everything s basically fine except the temperature monitoring for the processor A - k in the BIOS it s like C even if System Temperature was C is that even realistic and in Windows bit I can t tell which temp it is using HWInfo HWmonitor Gigabyte s easytune and coretemp In HWinfo it kinda claims the CPU is - degrees Then in Gigabyte s easy tune CPU is C so I traced it and if you look in the picture atleast according to Gigabyte it s Temperature - C but that s kinda unrealistic as it also stays at C even under full load Then finally in HWMonitor there s a Package under AMD A - K that says it s around - C but I m still not sure which one is it What is that quot package quot anyway In fact one time Hwmonitor said C was the max but maybe that was because I was runinng other temp monitors and it conflicted On the rest of the instances in this original post I made sure to run one at a time I ran a Blend Test in Prime and both the TMPIN which is the same value as the - C in Easytune and HWinfo and the A - K Package are changing and maxing at C and C respectively So all in all SpeedFan BIOS HWinfo and ET all display - C or something HWMonitor and Speccy display the - s Which should I trust or what should I use nbsp
Trust the package temp, that's the one on those processors you should be watching for.
I recently upgraded the memory in my fathers Laptop from the original 256Mb sim to a 2Gb sim. No problem there however the Return key and the Cursor keys seem to have stopped working even in the Bios.
I have removed the battery and held the power button in for 30secs thinking a reset of the Bios would fix the problem, no luck there they still do not function.
I have removed the keys and checked that nothing has been spilled on the keyboard, no problem there ether.
I have also checked internally to see if there was any damage to the ribbon cable. Seems fine.
To be honest I cant seem to locate the issue and was hoping someone could offer some additional support. Anybody any ideas?
Specs: Esystem EI 3101 laptop, Intel Celeron M430 1.73ghz CPU, 2Gb DDR2, Internal 256mb GFX card.
Did you try re-installing the 256MB memory to see if the keyboard started working again?
This was posted by Corsair a couple of days ago. What does everyone think? Is this just an attempt to get people to upgrade to shinny corsair ram, or is this finally a reason for gamers to have good ram/ overclock our current sticks?
No way the average FPS increases by 20 just by adding faster RAM (1920x1200 ultra graph)... BF3 barely gains 3 FPS from high speed RAM. It is just bloated graphs and marketing.
Hey, my name is Dazz. I am pretty new here and have just built a new PC, I have connected all the parts of the PC up correctly and seem to be having problems on startup. I hear the general kick into life startup but when I look at my monitor it is completely black, no startup screen. Doesnt even turn on, the light on the monitor is set to 'standby' straight away. I have no idea what the problem is at all.
Any ideas what it might be?
I am using Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 motherboard, 750W ATX PSU, Corsair Dominator 4GB Phenom II x6, and a Prolite E2208HDS monitor
The real question I have is why you are pairing a GTX 690 with a Phenom X6 and 4GB of RAM!
Jokes aside, does the GPU fan spin when you startup the PC? Is it properly seated on the PCIe port? Is there a power connection to the GPU?
recently my old router died, so I bought the new one. I connected it to my PC, entered my ISP information. It's working, but kinda slowly. My ISP speed used to be 10MB/s, but now I'm downloading torrents only with 1MB/s. Task manager shows that network is used by 10% since I have my adapers speed and duplex set to auto negotation. Do you have any ideas how to fix this?
EDIT: I use cable connection.
Disable QoS on the router and the PC
Hye. I juz wnt to ask some short question.
Does my Amd Athlon X2 5600+ 2.9Ghz overclock bottleneck wif my HD4850 IceQ 4 gpu??
How much the performance increase if I upgrade my current cpu to Amd Athlon II X2 270??
If you are going to upgrade and your system supports it, you might as well try to get a 4 core. Especially on an AMD rig, where CPU performance is weaker than Intel core for core. The "AMD Athlon II X4 650" is about the weakest performance I would recommend to anyone. It is comparable to the Core i3-2100 which is as low as I recommend for Intel CPU's.
For generalized performance you can take a look at these benchmarks. - http://www.cpubenchmark.net/
Athlon 64 X2 Dual Core 5600+ - 1463
Athlon II X2 270 - 1988
Athlon II X4 650 - 3663
Core i3-2100 - 3603
In Windows 8, whenever we copy any exe files to USB device/pen drive, there is an Interrupted Action dialog saying that "the file has properties that can't be copied to the new location". How to fix this issue?
I missed to say that there is an easier alternative method to copy files with properties is by creating image of the files need to be copied. For example, iso, daa , bin, etc.
Even if we use alternate methods, we need an easy solution to fix the main issue without any tools or software.
About one weak ago unfortunately I wiped my internal storage and Iost my everything,
I tried to recover my data using hexamob android application(My device is samsung galaxy tab 8.9)
After two times trying, I recovered almost 32GB of data but almost all of them are in dbf format which I'm not familiar with, so I don't know if it is possible to recover these files to my images, movies, etc
Any helps desperately appreciated
dbf files are used for Database storage - - you need the application that created them to access the data
I need forum recommendations on good reliable HDD enclosure which can support up to 4 TB hard drives (I think about $100 or so budget). Just lost flash drives and HDD because of bloody Roswill hub, so I decided stick to quality devices (not China). Also is there any possibility to restore flash drives?
You could try looking at the sticky near the top of this forum, here: http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/flash-drive-recovery-procedures.45834/