I have Win7 Home Premium. I need to replace the motherboard.
Will I have to go thru Microsoft to re-register my OS? I initially used the Win7 32 bit upgrade version. Thanks for any advise.
I recommend downloading and running Reimage. It's a computer repair tool that has been proven to identify and fix many Windows problems with a high level of success.
I've used it in the past to identify and fix everything from blue screens (BSOD's), ActiveX errors, corrupt files and processes, dll/exe/sys errors, recover lost memory, Windows update problems, defragging, malware removal etc.
You can download it direct from this link http://downloadreimage.com/directdownload.php. (This link will automatically start a download of Reimage that you can save to your computer.)
Quote: Originally Posted by ronnielee09
I have Win7 Home Premium. I need to replace the motherboard.
Will I have to go thru Microsoft to re-register my OS? I initially used the Win7 32 bit upgrade version. Thanks for any advise.
Since it is a retail upgrade version of home premium then the below tut will be needed to ensure successful activation
Clean Install with a Upgrade Windows 7 Version
If your windows still does not activate upon re-installation the follow this tut
Activate Windows 7 by Phone
Hi techspotters it has come time to modify my old rig I m planning to upgrade the cpu without changing my motherboard but there is a slight risk involved that the purchase I am going to make is with CPU board AM3+ AM3 faul So back to basics My current MB M A TD PRO AM3 board with AM3+ CPU USB - link Current CPU Phenom t oc running ghz Current RAM EVOleggera x running underclocked mhz the one to upgrade to AMD FX -- So this is a basic operation a cpu swap but few questions popped up on the research phase M A TD is a AM board which apparently after some searching supports some of the FX series cpus that are AM I have also found the corresponding BIOS that I need to flash myself to to make it work properly and be recognized by the MB link Q amp A FX is known to support mhz RAM speeds my existing RAM runs max at without overclock and is placed x which occupies all slots and might confuse the FX which supports dualchannel as usual Meaning I will need to leave my RAM running at mhz how big will the reduce be in the performance of the CPU- mhz vs When setting up the proceccor I will need to disable the Turbocore to make it stable on the older AM board which only supports cpu speeds up to ghz and the fx on turbo bumps to ghz After disabling turbo all cores are set to run at which by research is the most stable option on my existing MB Will FX bottleneck gtx or gtx and how bad it is going to be Upgrading hardware is always nice but am I making bold move by upgrading a year old cpu to almost as old one And if someone with more knowledge can state me that there is no performance gain to be maid I just might stick with my old as long as its still breathing and calculating Thanks in advance for replys And no changing an motherboard is not an option So fond of my old rig best regards m nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/am3-board-with-am3-cpu.214400/
I bought an interesting little Single Board Computer as an mITX motherboard (a WADE-8020, more info at the link below):
I have another similar board in an old Hoojum Cubit 3 case, and was wondering if anyone might have any other suggestions for a similarly eye-catching case, probably ready-made, though I'm not averse to either buying a DIYed case, or maybe trying to make one myself (I have a Dremel but not much else, and that includes skill )
So my DVD drive has died on my and I hear if u get a new one off Ebay u have to get the key from the old one DVD a drive 360 dead Replacing and stick it on the new so your Xbox will read it thats all well and good if your drive would work be picked up by PC The drive is dead and there is no way of getting the key Now if my logic is right the key is stored on one of the Microchips in the board so If I can get the chip off the board by heating it up what piece of Hardware would I need to read it and software to get the Needed information off in order to flash it onto the new XBox drive I plan to order I don t want to shell out on a new console as its in full working order despite DVD drive and doing it said way would be cheaper Yes Also if anyoen knows which chip it is on the Xbox Ben Q VAD Drive I be very happy I Plan on replacing it with another benQ drive I point out I do not intend to play pirated games I just want to be able to replace my DVD drive which may be against MS EuLA but I don t care as its not breaking UK law I will use it to back my games up again fully within UK law Thanks in advanced for replys nbsp
If you're positive that the old drive is dead (i.e. no power to the drive) then getting the key is impossible. if the drive has already been flashed then the key should have been saved. i'm quite positive there is no way to retrieve the key from the motherboard itself, without the use of specialized equipment, that you don't have access to anyways.
buy a new console and keep the old one for parts or sell it as is
On my studio pc, I've installed a new rack mounted firewire audio interface in the studio. On the other drives (windows 8.1) the interface has installed perfectly but on the xp drive, although the drivers etc have been installed, once set, it works perfectly with the new outboard soundcard.
However, whenever I reboot to the xp drive, xp always reverts back to the on-board realtek sound card. I set the default to the new interface (a Presonus Firestudio Project) but every reboot it defaults to the realtek.
The motherboard is a P5N-E SLI if that helps.
How can I stop this happening so the new interface is the default?
Thanks in advance,
So heres the story The computer has been working fine for several years Last night I decide to D850MV/D850EMV2 long Three desktop board beeps on Intel plug in my tv to the desktop via dvi It Three long beeps on Intel desktop board D850MV/D850EMV2 works fine and I dont have any problems I get home today and try and turn the computer Three long beeps on Intel desktop board D850MV/D850EMV2 on and I dont get any video signal to either the tv or the normal monitor Also long beeps accompany start up it sounds as though things boot but I dont get video or sound but it sounds like the hard drives click now and then like normal and the fans all run fine Ive swapped the first ram stick with one other and havent tried the rest yet and I have not changed the video card yet but plan to in the next minutes as of writing this Nothing looks physically damaged and I dont have any extra ram for this computer laying about since its a rambus so all I can do is swap the ram thats in it around and because I cant get video I cant run a test on the ram Suggestions or help would be appreciated Specifically what the long beep codes mean ive Three long beeps on Intel desktop board D850MV/D850EMV2 found a couple different versions of the code online and not sure which is correct Also what might have caused the problem plugging the tv in thats the only thing I did different unless someone was messing around with it without my knowledge or could it just be from years of wear or what nbsp
I think three beeps on Intel is a memory issue. At least that what it was when I had a stick of cheap RAM crap out on me.
I'd run Memtest and go from there
RAM can fail from a number of causes. Heat exposure, flaky transistor junctions, who knows. I seriously doubt plugging the TV in had anything to do with it.
You could go into BIOS to ascertain if the RAM voltage is set correctly. Over-volting is a DIMM killer.
You should be able to get documentation for that board directly off Intel's web site. Intel used to give BIOS beep codes ion the board/chipset manuals.
They also have hardware monitor software as a free download. Look up "Intel Desktop Utilities Lite".
This is my Entire system spec Im looking to upgrade my processor but I need help Operating System System Model Windows Home Premium x Service Pack build Install Language English United States System Locale English United States Installed AM Boot Mode BIOS Secure Boot not supported eMachines ET G System Serial Number PTNBA Enclosure Type Desktop Processor a Main Circuit Board b gigahertz AMD Athlon II X u kilobyte primary memory cache kilobyte secondary memory cache -bit ready Multi-core total Not hyper-threaded Board eMachines MCP PM-GM Bus Clock megahertz BIOS AMI P -A Drives Memory Modules c d Gigabytes Usable Hard Drive Capacity Gigabytes Hard Drive Free Space HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GH N SCSI im with AMD is board? to my What Processor mother compatible this And new CdRom Device Optical drive WD Virtual CD USB Device Optical drive Generic- Compact Flash USB Device Hard drive -- drive Generic- MS MS-Pro HG USB Device Hard drive -- drive What AMD Processor is compatible with my mother board? And im new to this Generic- SD MMC USB Device Hard drive -- drive Generic- SD MMC MS What AMD Processor is compatible with my mother board? And im new to this MSPRO USB Device Hard drive -- drive Generic- SM xD-Picture USB Device Hard drive -- drive WD My Book USB Device Hard drive GB -- drive s n WMAVY WDC WD AAKX- CA SCSI Disk Device GB -- drive s n WD-WMAYUL SMART Status Healthy Megabytes Usable Installed Memory Slot DIMM has MB serial number DE B Slot DIMM has MB serial number D B Slot DIMM is Empty Slot DIMM is Empty Local Drive Volumes c NTFS on drive GB GB free k FAT on drive GB GB free Operating System is installed on c Network Drives None discovered Users mouse over user name for details Printers local user accountslast logon Quentin PM admin UpdatusUser AM local system accounts Administrator AM admin Guest PM HomeGroupUser never Marks a disabled account Marks a locked account HP LaserJet Professional P w on IP Microsoft Shared Fax Driver on SHRFAX Microsoft XPS Document Writer on XPSPort Controllers Display ATA Channel Controller ATA Channel Controller NVIDIA nForce Serial ATA Controller x Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller What AMD Processor is compatible with my mother board? And im new to this NVIDIA GeForce GTS Display adapter DELL WFP Monitor quot vis s n XX- JU -XXXXX- - S June Bus Adapters Multimedia Standard Enhanced PCI to USB Host Controller Standard OpenHCD USB Host Controller HP Webcam HD- Mobiola Wave Audio Device WDM Mobiola Web Camera Video Source NVIDIA Virtual Audio Device Wave Extensible WDM Realtek High Definition Audio Senstic PocketAudio Senstic PocketCam USB Audio Device Virus Protection Back to Top Group Policies No details available None discovered Communications Other Devices Hamachi Network Interface primary Auto IP Address Gateway Dhcp Server Physical Address A D Connection Speed Mbps Microsoft to Adapter Microsoft ISATAP Adapter NVIDIA nForce Mbps Ethernet Auto IP Address Gateway Dhcp Server Physical Address FC C AA Connection Speed Mbps Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface Networking Dns Servers HID-compliant consumer control device x HID-compliant device x USB Input Device x HP Webcam HD- HID Keyboard Device x HID-compliant mouse Microsoft PS Mouse USB Composite Device x USB Mass Storage Device x USB Root Hub x Generic volume shadow copy WD SES Device E F G H I nbsp
That is an AM3 socket CPU which means it should be compatible with the Phenom II series CPU's. I looked up the board and it should still support up to a 95 watt CPU so any Phenom II X4 CPU with a 95 watt TDP would work on it.
As the topic says, my computer doesn't detect my on-board sound card. It all started when I tried to install new audio drivers from manufacturers page, but the next day when I booted PC up there were no sound. In Device Manager, under Sounds, game,.. controllers tab sit 4-5 High Definition Audio Devices. Here's pic:
Then tried re-installing original audio drivers from motherboard CD, enabling/disabling On-Board HD Audio in BIOS but still no luck.
My Audio Device is VIA VT1705.
DxDiag shows that no sound card was found.
This is what is shown in Playback Devices tab:
But I have no HDMI kind audio devices..
How to make my system recognize my sound card?
I have an LG Monitor that has blown a capacitor in the ac adapter, I want to order a new one, I can only find replacment models and all the amps are different. after reading alot of forums it seems less amps is bad and more is ok.. so this is my question.. my ac adapter has these ratings....
INPUT - 100-240V- 50/60 Hz 0.7 A (0.7 A)
OUTPUT - 12 V --- 2.0 A (2.0 A)
and the one im looking at on ebay is
INPUT - 100-240V- 50/60 Hz 1.0 A
OUTPUT - 12 V --- 2.5 A
The seller claims it will work fine.. Is this true... Thank you
I believe it will work fine, yes. But please get another opinion before purchasing.
My laptop's hard drive has been getting worse and worse in the past 2 months, eg. freezing for up to an hour at a time, heating up to painful temperatures until it overheats and crashes. But today she finally died and is completely unable to start.
A systems diagnostic gave error 2000-146, which apparently means hard drive failure. But everything's already backed up and safe, so I'm quite happy to just replace it.
But... I don't know how on earth I would go about doing that, or what I should be looking for when buying a new laptop hard drive, ie. what the difference is between a desktop HD and a laptop one.
So... Any advice?
Hey Partian Shot. A desktop drive is bigger and will generally have greater capacity. What is the make and model number of your laptop?. Do you have the Windows OS on a disk?
After my brother sprayed it with glass cleaner.my laptop key board types wrong letters.lets say I want to write "my laptop key board is messed up" this is what it types: my lap0to9p0 ke3ybo9ar4d i8s me3sse3d u7p0. all the letters in the upper row type the letter and the number above it and vise verse(exept t,y,5,6)
I tried the num lock and sticky keys,checked my language tap still nothing
(I use dell inspirion , windows 7)
Have you tried a USB keyboard? If not, try it. You might also try the on screen keyboard.
I just came from a retail store to check on prices but most of their parts weren't available anymore. Instead of a G. Skill Ripjaws 2x4 8gb DDR-3 1600, the clerk offered me a Crucial Ballistix 2x4 8gb DDR-3 1866 memory. The board I'm gonna buy is an Asrock H77 Pro4/Mvp but looking at their memory support list http://www.asrock.com/mb/memory.asp?Model=H77 Pro4/MVP, it doesn't seem compatible.
The clerk had told me it was compatible and that he had tried it before but I'm not sure if it'd have unwanted effects over some period of time. (I got drawn in by how the memory looks and its LED so I'm including it as a choice). Thanks.
It will be compatible, worst case scenario is just setting your 1866Mhz RAM to run at 1600Mhz. You're getting quicker RAM for free.
I think I've mentioned it in here before. Its an older HP compaq Presario Model # 17XL4
Original OS was Win ME. When I first got it 5 or 6 years ago, it had a bogus XP Pro OS on it & I put a genuine copy on it & it was working fine till the harddrive died one day.
I know the harddrive is a goner because I've tried putting XP Pro on it a couple times since & its a no go.
I'd like to find a new/rebuilt harddrive for it so I can get it back up & running. It'll be used for email & reading only. Any ideas?
I don't have a ton of $$$ so......TIA
http://www.geeks.com. Has IDE hard drive for laptops for 25.00
Hi all, I have monitor gericom 2030 and it has some power board model that I cant find on sell, so I have buy one that is almost same with it. 4 plugs for invetors are same but one connection for t-con board is diffrent and on oroginal board I have pins (5V, 5v, GND, GND, 12v, BL, N/F) and on board that I have buy has ( 12v, 12v, GND, GND, 5v, 5v, GND, N.C, ON, DIM, MS ) So any suggests wich on wich one I should connect?
1) 1 Windows Server 2003 running Active Directory services to manage logon and permissions for file sharing.
2) 15 workstations.
We now want to have:
1) 1 Windows Server 2008 R2 server running Active Directory services to manage logon and permissions for file sharing.
2) 15 same workstations, with their same user profiles.
So I joined the 2008 R2 server to the domain, and then used the dcpromo tool to make it a domain controller.
Problem is, whenever I take the old server offline, (the 2003 one) everything flips out, logons are slow, and the 2008 server gives people trying to access shared files weird errors like that the server that authenticated them cannot be contacted, and asks them to log in again with their username and password before accessing shared files on the server.
What did I do wrong? I must be forgetting something.
1. Transfer all FSMO roles to your 2008 R2 server
2. Uninstall AD on 2003 server
3. You can now permanently take 2003 server offline
A couple months ago my old desktop PC broke down, the fault belonged to the motherboard which has burned out. I know it may sound dumb to say I don't know the motherboard model but I've looked all over the motherboard itself and found no intelligible model numbers. Anyway I was hoping that you guys could help me out picking out a replacement as I'm having some difficulty doing so. I don't want to build it from scratch but rather use the components that are still in good condition.
Model - Aspire M7300
OS - Windows Vista 64-bit
VGA - ATI Radeon 4850 HD 1024mb
AMD Phenom ii x3 710 triple core processor
suggested motherboard? http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/motherboardbundles/mbb-5502a.html
The item you have linked is not just a motherboard, it is a motherboard, CPU and memory (RAM) bundle.
Since you already have a CPU and memory (both of which are more powerful than the bundled ones) you definitely don't want to be going with that.
The motherboard you will need is an AMD socket AM3 or AM3+
These are the AM3+ boards on the website you linked.
However, before I make a recommendation, I need to know what the computer will be used for (gaming, everyday web browsing ect).
Also, changing a motherboard is quite a task, and may be especially hard on an ACER box like you have. You will end up having to get some new thermal paste for your CPU heatsink (or a new heatsink), and possibly a new copy of windows. It doen't seem like you know a whole lot about PC's, so your going to have to do some research before attempting this.
I got a M5A99x Evo Re2.0, brand new board and the audio from the rear doesnt work at all when I plug the pink and green plugs. I have an HDMI connecting from my TV to my Gcard, I get audio through the TV but cant seem to get those jacks working. Ive used two different headsets to see if it might have been the headset itself. im really stumped.
Have you gone into the sound menu in your control panel and set your default audio device to your headset?
If, under the "playback" tab, the HDMI output is ticked, then this is the problem.
Just click on the correct device(It should either list your headphones or say "high definition audio", or something similar) and then click "set default".
This should solve the problem.
My system is as follows:
ASUS P4PE Mobo
NVidia GeForce4 MX440 graphics with AGP8X
Philips 17" Flatscreen Monitor
OK so my monitor has bit the dust. I dont want to upgrade any of my computer components because its too old. About 9.5 yrs. I want an LCD monitor thats going to overlap from now until I buy a complete new system. I dont want to buy a monitor that will be underspec'd for the new system. Im not very knowledgeable on their resolutions and whats not compatible or why, nor about aspect ratios and compatibility.
- My Video Card has a max resolution 1024x768 pix . Can I use a 16.9 and the standard resolutions of today?
Thanks for any help.
You can use any monitor with any graphics card, with 2 caveats; must have compatible ports (DVI,VGA,HDMI,DisplayPort) or use an adapter, and your resolution will be limited to the component with the smaller value (your card's 1024x768). So until you build the new system, it will display the same size as your old one, with a wide black bar on either side (but should look better anyway). The sweet spot these days is 23" widescreen (less than $150), 24" under $200, and 27" start at $250. I have an Acer 23" and it's big enough for me. Remember, though, when you have a bigger monitor it will run at lower frame rates with a given video card, so keep that in mind when spec'ing the new system. Until 3 months ago I was where you are (Pentium 4 3.4 GHz). I gradually upgraded my parts until I ended up with this;
Asus P8Z77-V, Intel [email protected] GHz, Kingston HyperX [email protected] MHz, EVGA GTX 550 Ti [email protected] MHZ/2257 MHz, Corsair H100 liquid cooling, Ultra X4 750w, Corsair Carbide 400R, 2 x WDC Green 2TB, 1 x WDC Blue 500GB, 1 x Hitachi 400 GB, 1 x Hitachi 1TB external, LG M-Disc Super Multi DVD, 6 x 120mm case fans, Acer 23" [email protected], Microsoft Wireless Desktop 3000, Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit
I've got about $1400 total in it (plus many months of research and list-making, which was half the fun) and it's so much faster I can hardly believe it, even without an SSD (soon!). So you can get a monitor now, then find a case you like and move into it, get your fans set up the way you want, then one day get a Z77 mobo and i5-3570K and switch everything over. You'll need a new hard drive, your old one is IDE and the new mobos are SATA. Later you can get a decent video card, faster RAM, an SSD, etc. BTW, the integrated Intel HD 4000 video on the 3570K is awesome, I used it for a week just to try it out, and it played most of my games okay. I envy you - for you, the fun is just beginning. New hardware aimed at the enthusiast market is a multi-billion dollar business now, so competition is fierce, prices are low, and great new stuff comes out almost daily. Do the research, read the reviews, and have fun.
I bought a pre-assembled computer a while back and it came with a 30GB SSD for the OS (which is Windows 7 64-bit if it's of any relevance). Unfortunately this is incredibly small and between security updates and bits and pieces from various programs that refused to install on anything but the boot drive I've found myself with only about 2GB left. I want to buy a bigger drive to replace the SSD but I'm not sure of the best way to all the data I need on the new drive. Should I try some kind of cloning software or is it better just to do a fresh install of the OS.
I was also wondering, since SSDs are pretty price, if I would lose a significant amount of speed if I got a standard platter hard drive instead. Would most things other than boot time be unaffected?
What popped into my head when I read your post was Acronis. There are others, of course. You might want to hang around a bit and wait for more suggestions. Personally, however, I'd do a clean install. But that's me and I like to keep things simple and straightforward so as to avoid complications. Do wait for the advice and opinion of more knowledgeable members on this.
I was also wondering, since SSDs are pretty price, if I would lose a significant amount of speed if I got a standard platter hard drive instead. Would most things other than boot time be unaffected?Click to expand...
A good-sized, well-priced SSD will run rings around a platter drive many times over, in my opinion. Makes for a faster PC all-around. But then do you really need that much performance for your purposes? What do you use your PC for? My desktop at work has a platter hard drive and it suits its purpose just fine.
Can't you keep your SSD and maybe get a standard platter drive for your archives and maybe some apps? If you're on a laptop, have you considered maybe getting an external HDD? Sorry if I've missed a point somewhere.
My father wants me to find my mother a laptop, he gave me a budget of around $700. In all likelihood she will mostly use it for facebook, facebook games and movies. She will mostly be using the laptop while working in a coffee stand so she can probably plug it in whenever she needs to. She probably wont replace it for some time so something that will hold up well over the years would be nice. She hates change and is used to using windows systems so I'm not sure if she would go for a mac. I really don't know a damn thing about laptops and I have no idea what to look for or where to start so any help would be appreciated.
HI all The DVD-RW drive in our Toshiba L d-S seems to have gone caput We have only had it a year but it does get used alot It will only read some of our dvds now other DVD s it refuses to even recognize the format or says media is unreadable even though there is no visible damage to the disk I have run malwarebytes superantispyware ccleaner spybot s amp d avast microsoft online seurity scanner and hijackthis with no results other than spyware Device manager says it is working fine I uninstalled from device manager and rebooted Same thing Could not find updated drivers for it Microsoft Fixit say media is unreadable or unknown format but the disk plays fine in our other Toshiba L Some movies start right up in VLC other dvds cannot be read Some of our burnt movie backups work great while the original dvd cant even be quot read quot It burns just fine and every cd we put in so far reads fine Dont think it is codecs issue cause an older original StarWars DVD wont read at all in it If a game is put in it can read it but the autorun does not start up laptop burner replacing Toshiba Advice DVD on L655 I check autoplay and it Advice on replacing Toshiba L655 laptop DVD burner says to load game Advice on replacing Toshiba L655 laptop DVD burner or for DVDs play with VLC I edited the registry to get rid of the filters there was only an upper this did not really help When any disk is inserted the drive really thinks long and hard about it all this leading me to the conclusion that we need a new disk drive Toshiba has been remarkably unhelpful saying our warranty expired weeks ago After saying all that my question is this does anyone know if any laptop DVD-RW drive will be compatible or if laptop drives come in different sizes I have replaced laptop hard drives before but never a dvd drive I am going to have to take the old one out to find out if it is SATA or IDE I am hesitant to order one since I cant seem to find one that says it will specifically fit an L Thanks any advice is appreciated and sorry for the lengthiness nbsp
The Optical drive is held in by one screw, usually located under a bottom cover. Open the tray and when you remove that screw, just pull the drive out. There should be a part number on the drive label. Use this number to locate a replacement drive. The drive's plastic bezel can be removed and placed on the replacement drive, so you can purchase a much cheaper drive that doesn't have a bezel installed. EBay is a good source
Been a long time browser of TS and am glad to finally join. I am looking to utilize a Q6600 processor and the following system board and RAM:
ASUS P5G41T-M LX Plus
Corsair XMS3 1333MHz PC3-10666
The goal is to moderately overclock the Q6600 to 3.2 GHz. In my research, I have read many positive reviews about the stability of ASUS boards, and the DDR3 capability is significant to me. However, from what I have gathered, this board can be fussy when overclocking the CPU. Has anyone had any experience with a similar setup?
I would appreciate any thoughts/comments/suggestions.
Firstly, why do you need to overclock it? I'm guessing its more because you want to, than necessity, but my thoughts are below.
I run the exact same CPU in my system 24/7 and while it might be long in the tooth compared with most systems on here, it's certainly not lacking at stock speeds as it is.
Not sure if system specs is easily read right now, but for the sake of doubt, mine are: Intel Core2Quad Q6600 G0 stepping (at stock OC with Corsair H50 (push/pull) providing cooling), Abit AW9D-MAX, 8GB OCZ Gold series DDR2-1066, HD6870, Antec HCG-620 PSU, a SSD and six mechanical disks.
I wouldn't call 3.2GHz a moderate OC on the Q6600, that's more like 2.8-3.0GHz. I used to have mine overclocked but the difference was so minimal (in real terms) that the additional heat it gave off and power it consumed made it pointless. I was never able to achieve 3.05GHz or above either, but I've no doubt that more experienced hands would have managed it. Overclocking is my weaker subject in the field of IT generally speaking, and I can't say I've ever really pushed the envelope very far in that regard.
Though that said, I've always found Gigabyte boards to be much more forgiving when it comes to RAM settings. Asus in my experience can be a real nightmare with recognising the default timings and voltages for RAM, and in "my experience" need much more work to achieve the same result.
Another point that needs to be considered is LGA-775 is legacy hardware now, so you'd be spending money on defunct hardware. If you have the CPU it might be better to grab a second-hand board off of eBay or something, or maybe look to something newer and more current.
Hi guys it s me again with a bunch of questions A few days ago my power supply unit crashed supply replacing power after Problems so I had to replace it It works perfectly fine but it has a light grey wire consisting of black red and white smaller wires and it has a four-pin end which doesnt Problems after replacing power supply seem to go anywhere my old psu did not have this wire It is my first contact with this kind of hardware and i Problems after replacing power supply am pretty puzzled about this After the death of the old psu my computer decided not to recognize devices in my usb ports And as I have an external sound card it is a pain in my neck The computer does show that there are usb root hubs and says they are working properly My mouse has a red light and it is blinking as it should be when i try to connect my mobile to the pc it shows like it is working but no sign of the kraft g on my computer Also it does not show that my generic usb device as the sound card is connected To sum up I looked up about my connected usb devices and it showed the history and also said none of them are connected atm If you managed to read this awfully written piece English obviously is not my native language and i am kind of in rage here and understand the problems here are the questions What does this wire described in the first paragraph do Is it possible that some kind of virus psu crashing disabled the usb ports somehow How can I get my usb ports to work nbsp
Is it one of these?
Bought me recently a new MoBo: P8H67, installed it, killed Realtek onboard in the BIOS, all thus far goes splendid.
Put in SoundMax (from my P5E Lifestyle), hardware checks ok.
Install driver... and here things go awkward: no matter what I try: SoundMax Hi Def is not found/recognized.
Tried both the DVD-soft that came with me P5E, as well as online new drivers, to no use...
Reason for SoundMax: I was slightly baffled by the power behind the tiny card, it was literally mindblowing (over my JBL's).
This power is not found on Realtek hardware, hence.
Prob: I want to keep using the tiny SoundMax, but I desperately need a driver.
Win 7 Ultimate X64 (registered)
Thank you all:
List any Problem Devices
Make sure devices are connected and powered on
Click Start->Run, enter: msinfo32. Click the + sign next to Components to expand it
Click Problem Devices. Anything appear?
If yes, click on it, Ctrl-A to select all, Ctrl-C to copy it, Ctrl-V to paste into next post
On the other hand, if no devices are listed, tell me so
Generate and attach a DirectX report
Click Start->Run, enter dxdiag and click OK
===> If you?re running 32 bit Windows, dxdiag will launch on its own
===> If you?re running 64 bit Windows, you?ll see 64-bit DxDiag. Click it to launch the 64-bit version of dxdiag
Notice progress in lower left window corner
When done, click Save Information button and save to your Desktop
In TechSpot window, use the paper clip icon to attach the report. (If you don't see icon you may need to first click Go Advanced)
i was wondering if HIS H675FS1G Radeon HD 6750 1GB 128-bit DDR3 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card would work on a MSI G31TM-P21 LGA 775 Intel G31 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard.
Card # at Newegg=N82E16814161395"]
Board#at Newegg= N82E16813130234
o wait the card is ddr3 , does that mean it won't work?
Sure, the card will work fine. The graphics card memory is independent from the memory type of the motherboard.
I currently have a Lenovo laptop and have had it for 2 and a half years. The battery has always been pretty bad and last about 3 minutes unplugged. The hard drive is a temperamental one from an old laptop as the original broke for no apparent reason, probably didn't help I was constantly having to rebuild it too. I know it is stupid but when I got this laptop I was young and naive and didn't realise how essential recovery disks are.
I realise to replace all of these would be quite expensive so am wondering whether it is worth just buying a new laptop?
We need more information to comment.
There are at least 7 levels of Lenovo laptop... Is this a T-series... or just what is it? model and type.
In general, Lenovo laptops are among the most reliable...
This is not a good time to buy hard drives, due to the market over-adjusting to the hard drive factories under water in Thailand.
Batteries, good ones, can be found for $35 to $45
But you can get a 90 GB SATA hard drive for $90 or less.
Tell us the hard drive brand and size, the amount of memory installed.
All in all, we can rebuild a decent Lenovo for $140... and that is a lot less expensive than a new laptop. But a shop would have to charge you $205 or more.
A cheap laptop might cost you $500 to $600, but a good laptop could cost you $1200 to $1800. For long term reliability, I would want to invest at least $1000 to $1500
Tell us more so we can best advise you.
Awhile back my eMachines T6420 Replacing motherboard eMachines T blew some caps on the motherboard and quit working I bought a new MS- mb and a new power supply It still won t work right The computer powers on and off with the front power switch but I get no indicator lights on the front of the tower and a quot No Signal quot message on the monitor The Caps lock and the Num lock lights on Replacing eMachines T6420 motherboard the keyboard don t light up and my optical mouse light doesn t come on The cooling fan on the power supply and on the case run but the CPU fan is off My DVD CD tray will open and close but if I put the restore disc in it nothing changes I would really like to get this machine running again so that I can rescue my files I have an exterior hard drive I used for backups but since this machine I have now is a Win version it refuses to recognize Replacing eMachines T6420 motherboard most of the backuped up data Plus I really miss Outlook Express Thanks for any help you can give me nbsp
It sounds like your new motherboard or powersupply may be bad. There is also the possibility that other components (CPU, RAM) may have been damaged depending how the old board failed. Was it just leaking caps or did it fail catastrophically (sparks, smoke, exploding caps, etc.)? Of course double check all connections and make sure all components are seated properly in their slots/sockets. Also what PSU did you get (is it OEM or aftermarket and if aftermarket please give brand, model, and rating on the various rails). Also was the "new" motherboard actually new or a used/refurbished one?
could anybody tell me if it is possible to replace cpu in a toshiba satellite a660 17 is it soldered in or can it just be removed and a new one put in
Chances are that the CPU is removable...
I have been going through the process of building a computer for the first time and the motherboard is the final piece of the puzzle I am seriously considering the Asus Maximus Gene-Z as the motherboard to go along with GB Hawks OC in SLI on mATX a Is SLI usually on board avoided? air to go along with an OC i - k but I have been seeing some concerns about temperatures in general As far Is SLI on a mATX board on air usually avoided? as cooling the board would be in a mid-tower that has the dimensions of the full tower Storm Sniper with its default fans and the CPU would be cooled by a Corsair A I do have a few ATX motherboard in mind if the mATX option isn t ideal for SLI including the MSI Z A-GD ASUS P Z -V PRO or ASRock Z EXTREME GEN i - K Corsair A GB GTX Hawk in SLI x GB G Skill Sniper DDR Samsung Spinpoint TB Asus x DVD-Drive Cooler Master Storm Sniper Seasonic X- nbsp
Personally if I was building a computer without having any hardware to start with I would probably aim for a higher end single card rather than 2 older and now mid range 460 GTX cards. That way in the future you can pickup another higher performance card and then use SLI.
As for mATX and SLI, as long as the board supports it then there is no problem. You have stated its in a full tower so airflow won't be a problem. You might find some problems such as PCI 1x slot blocked/unusable when you have two double slot (two expansion slot height) PCI-E graphics cards in the motherboard.
Hi all I have an asus x s laptop and a while ago the power jack inside broke off and went further into the unit I managed to take the laptop apart and retrieve the jack I then rather stupidly attempted to desolder board PCB Splintered the remainder of the unit from the board and found that apparently ASUS use diamond as solder that or I wasn t doing something right Anyway point is that the contacts stayed in the board no matter what and only with force Splintered PCB board and heat did they come out unfortunately however there are still two contacts firmly in the board Anyway as you can all imagine the inevitable happened The board warped slightly and on one of the corner points the iron went through and splintered the side picture attached A couple of questions Number And I think I already know the answer to this As this has happened will this be detrimental to the running of the laptop I m going to guess that the second I turn it on should I be successful in replacing that the power will short and the world will end or something Number Since last using the laptop I can only assume that the rest of the components processor RAM Drive etc are still in good working order and I m wondering just how successful anyone may think it would be to sell the laptop as spare parts or would I be better off taking into the yard with a shotgun Sorry about the cynical nature of this post that s just how I am that and I m incredibly annoyed at myself for thinking that me soldering iron delicate electronics was ever going to have any other outcome than this nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/splintered-pcb-board.171757/
Need info old board P4SD-VL
<I'm trying to fix a very old pc; it's almost ready but I can't set front USB ports.>
Thatīs what I said. But more than a simple thing I need; USB frontal ports are working now. The matter is I canīt find drivers to set Sound, LAN, Modem... The pc is working fine, I've installed operating system, office programs and some other software without trouble.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Who made the motherboards chipset? VIA?
hello, ive had this desktop computer for years now and the processor is extremely outdated. I have been looking around trying to figure out how i can upgrade the processor speed but it seems the more i look up the less i know about computers...
anyways i have: Board: MICRO-STAR MS-7184
Serial Number: 5922655884
current proccessor: 2.00 gigahertz AMD Athlon 64
256 kilobyte primary memory cache
1024 kilobyte secondary memory cache
I believe the socket is a 939? when i looked up these specs i found that the highest processor i can place is " AMD Athlon 64 X2 (up to 4800+) and Sempron (up to 3200+) processors".
Can anyone verify this?Or is it not worth investing in a new processor? i am looking to find the best upgrade rather then spending cash to buy a new computer. Any advice would be extremely appreciated.
Truth be told you are better off upgrading your Motherboard, RAM, and Processor if you want to see any substantial difference. A socket 939 is quite a bit old and since then they have move onto the AM2, AM2+, AM3, AM3+, etc sockets for AMD Mobos and Processors.
Socket 939 processors are to the point where they are no longer just old enough to be cheap. Since they are no longer made they are old enough to be more expensive than modern counterparts in many cases.
When upgrading the MOBO and CPU you want to look into more than just the processor speed. Important factors are also the types and amount of cache for a processor, number of cores, and RAM that can be used with that CPU.
The newer Athlon II X2s as an example are a significant leap from the original Athlon 64s and a discerning buyer online can find them significantly cheap. AM2+ boards are currently somewhat inexpensive and so is DDR2 RAM. They are currently at the stage where they are old enough to be somewhat cheap but with the newest socket and processors being sold by AMD now it may change iwthin the next few years to start getting expensive again from being old enough.
You also have the route of a AM3 with DDR2 or DDR3 Ram option available which are also moderately priced.
If you check out the website pricewatch.com you can look at pricing for several different mobos, cpus, etc from various websites easily. I just completed a full build including case, HDD, Mobo, CPU, DVD-RW, RAM, Graphics card, etc for just over $350.00
I'm planning to fix up this laptop soon. I need to buy 2 x 2gb for the ram and a new LCD screen for it. I plan to get a new HDD for it sometime next year. What do I need to know for buying this ram stuff and if there would be a program that would give me the extra info about it that I may need...
Read the manual. If there is no manual then do a search for the make and model and you should be able to find the manual in PFD format. It should tell you everything you know.
How old is the system and what is the make and model?
I got a Intel Server Board L440GX with the dual Pentium III processors and i cant get it to recognize the Mylex eXtreme RAID 2000 FW 7.01-00. I have never configured a raid before but i think i got it right(not sure) anyway the bios says that no h.d. or likewise is installed. I ain't got any ideas on what to do please help
bwta, sound like you better take a look at:
Hello all First post so bear with me Thanks Here s the situation I m replacing the internals on a brand new Toshiba Satellite Pro L after it was doused in sweet tea I was able to procure a new mobo and USB ports No power after replacing USB L630 to Satellite and Toshiba mobo Card reader board for about half the price of the laptop and the cleaning replacement went smoothly Here s the rub though -Brand new Mobo -Brand new card reader USB board -Brand new connectors Computer accepts power and shows powered on Even boots However as soon as the USB board is plugged in the entire rig looses power until it is unplugged and reset with the power button Odder still even though the old board acts a bit odd keeps trying to turn the computer on as soon as it s plugged in it behaves the same way Old and new USB boards both cause the board to lose power I ve done full electrical testing and even though the power circuits show full power at the DC in jack the board drops to half power and then loses it completely as soon as either USB board is plugged Both boards behave the same even when nothing else is connected except for the USB board Completely lost at this point Any help would be greatly appreciated nbsp
The replacement motherboard is probably bad. Have I ever bought bad motherboards? YES! Both for laptops and desktops...
Hello everyone Im new here and hope I followed the with Replacing drive HDD CD-ROM rules about posting properly Im upgrading my current HDD to a SSD that I pulled Replacing CD-ROM drive with HDD from a laptops who mother board took a dump since its on the smaller side I was going to use it as my boot drive I also saw an interesting article about a company that offers an adapter where you can remove your CD-ROM drive and put a drive in there I was planning on putting my current drive in this adapter The main question I have now is using this second drive going to be exactly the same as a external Ive never been on a computer with drives Thank you for the help in advance P S a second question I thought of does anyone have a good cloning software they would recommend Most of the ones Ive used take up way too much storage for a recovery and partition the drives in a way that I dont like Thanks again in advance nbsp
How large is the SSD? If you look carefully, most cases come with 2 HDD slots, so there's no need to buy a 5 1/4 to HDD adapter
the title basically says it all, i was just wondering if it was possible
No, you'd have to add a discreet card if that's even possible, which it probably isn't.
HP Pavilion m7560n
NVIDIA GeForce 6150 LE (mobo)
AMD Athlon 64 X2 4400+ / 2.2 GHz
4 gb ddr2 sdram pc2-4200
Thermaltake TR2-450w psu
ATI Radeon HD 4350 1gb ddr2 600mhz
Microsoft Windows XP Media Center Edition 2005
Seagate 320 gb hd
Keep in mind, the operating system came with the computer. I don't have an install cd. All I have is 3 recovery disks and I'm not betting they'll work with a new mb. My goal is to reuse all hardware if possible. Links in next post.
frist, only has two ram slots, not 9.6 x 9.6, will it still fit?
second, same as above.
third, almost seems to good to be true. Only shipped with motherboard. No software.
Hi, (First Post)
While it is often true that when you get no post after startup, that it is often the powersupply - it would be nice to know if the motherboard is functioning properly.
I use power supply testers, a great time saver, but does anyone know of a reasonalby inexpensive motherboard tester on the market?
Well, I have seen a few mobo/ram testers on Ebay but have no idea how good they are. Just do a search on there for motherboard tester and several will come up, they are about Ģ20.
Solved Replacing my x need advice on possible alternatives Hello guys i have recently upgraded my system to an up-to date quad core setup I have been using my trusty old x for on need my Replacing alternatives advice 4870x2, possible nearly years now and still it is able chew on any game that is thrown at it But lately what has started to bug me is the ATI s lack of support in terms of old dual GPU graphics card and as a result i have been having all sorts of issues with different games where one game works well with certain set of drivers and other with different ones So i have finally decided that it is time to move on to something more recent and equally if not more powerful I have done some research and i am inclined towards buying a GTX which i can get for around after discount Also there is a Super overclocked version that is available for Replacing my 4870x2, need advice on possible alternatives that is close to a in terms of performance Do you guys think that an extra is worth the performance boost i have also thought of the possibility to get and unlock a but its more like a hit or miss as its not certain if the card will unlock not to mention the chances of artifacts increased temps if it does Also I have a single PCI express motherboard so Replacing my 4870x2, need advice on possible alternatives SLI is out of question for now Please feel free to post your thoughts and views cheers nbsp
That's a pretty good price for a GTX 480, the stock version should give you just slightly better overall performance than the 4870 X2 ... the SC a bit better. The driver situation with the 4870 X2 will not likely improve over time, so if your goal is better driver support this sounds like a reasonable move.
I need to replace my acer aspire one d255 keyboard, i found a decently priced one on ebay but would like to get some advice from you kind techie people first before i take the plunge as i kinda suck at this type of thing. First of all is it fairly easy to do? could someone provide me with a kind of step by step guide.
Thanks in advance for your help
This is a video of the keyboard removal procedure...
Acer Aspire One Keyboard Removal Video l
I have a set of Altec Lansing FX 4021 computer speakers and I'm looking to buy a replacement control pod and attached cable. The control pod is about 3-4" square and has a rotating adjuster for the audio levels. The "cable" is attached to the circuit board of the pod and the other end requires a male 7pin Din plug to attach to the subwoofer. I'd like to buy the pod/cable intact, if anyone has one. If not, I need the wiring diagram for the 7 pins, allowing me to solder replacement plug correctly. Thanks
hey all....i replaced my cpu fan and i removed all the wires and after replacing when i put the power switch all the front panel buttons wont work and all the fans in the pc starts working also the computer doesn't start
I think you missed some wires, eg the cpu power cable, its usually yellow and black, its next to the cpu heatsink.
Or make sure that you ram is connected well and lastly check that you processor is locked well...
Oh, i have forgotten, is you mobo an ATX with 24pin or 20pin?
if its 24pin, make sure that all the power connectors are all in and well fitted..
Hope that helps.
ok first off i got this board second hand from my brother he couldnt get it to work at all however he thought it was a video card compatability issue He had a ATI Radeon card and its an NVIDIA chipset on the board Now that ive giving a tiny bit of back ground ill give you the systems specs or atleast the specs itll be once its working and can see things CPU Intel core duo E RAM GB DDR x OCZ REAPER Motherboard As mentioned EVGA NVIDIA i sli GPU GEforce GS PSU Sparkle W gold class TB for storage and a GB + no =( sli output board video Evga 680i Nvidia for the OS Thats whats in my box and the box itself is a Rosewill Evga Nvidia 680i sli board + no video output =( CRUISER So far everything looks like its powers up right and and the HDD spins up it seems like its posting correctly i jus cant get anyvideo out of it Any suggestions would be helpful also keyboards will not work in any usb port and on the mointer it says entering power save mode it detects the cable being there but does not get a signal ive tried multiple keyboards and multiple video cables nbsp
sounds like it's just a faulty board... it doesn't matter if you have a single ATI or NVIDIA card, it should work with either
So I am trying to replace a hard drive in a Lenovo all in one desktop because it's previous drive was failing. The replacement drive is just a standard 3.5in drive: 2 TB Western Digital Green.
So I took the old drive out and put the new one in, but I get an error when I try to boot into my Windows 7 Ultimate x64 disk.
From the Windows Boot Manager it says the following:
Info: An unexpected I/O error has occurred.
It also talks about unplugging any external drives but there aren't any connected in this case.
What should I do?
Sorry, its a bit unclear. Are you replacing the boot drive, or just a storage drive in the system?
Hello I have a desktop with motherboard Via KT CF- ruinign on windows xp I had a MB memory and the computer was running very slow with lots K7VTA3 ECS RAM v8) fully isn't recognized (board of RAM isn't fully recognized (board ECS K7VTA3 v8) lags I decided to buy some more memory and bought the lot of two kit Kingston KVR X C AK total of GB I opened the computer and inserted the two memory sticks on the motherboard and switch on the computer As it runs BIOS says only MB Ram and not GB RAM Other times it reads sometimes says MB and one time said MB RAM Its very strange this Whats going on I dont know but the site says that the board accepts DDR SDRAM Did I bought a wrong set of memory sticks or is it something wrong in the computer data from Everest software ID Motherboard -KT CF- -K VTA C- Motherboard ECS K VTA v Physical Memory Total MB Used MB Free MB Utilization North Bridge VIA VT Apollo KT Thanks Boto nbsp
I dont know but the site says that the board accepts DDR200/266/333 SDRAM.Click to expand...
You bought DDR400 so I'd say your RAM is not supported by your motherboard. Also, the voltage standard for your motherboard is 2.5 volts. Your RAM needs 2.6 volts although it should still run if your motherboard supported it in the first place. You might be able to bump up the voltage in the BIOS but I can't say for sure.
Okay, my board is as described. I have a black bank and a blue bank. I plan on upgrading to 8 gigs of RAM this spring. With my motherboard's setup, would I benefit more from 2 sticks of 4 gig RAM or 4 sticks of 2 gig RAM?
A link to my board:
Link us to your motherboard's website. The manual should contain the correct memory configurations.
Hi - I have a Gateway EC18 with a very loud fan and wouldn't you know it, the warranty just expired.
So I went to the gateway support site and typed in the serial number and looked at the vendors for parts but no fan is listed.
Where should I look for a replacement fan?
do you think this is what you are looking for?
There isn't any picture, but the model number matches up. I'm not sure how easy it will be to take apart. I have broken down a few laptops and they are complicated. In the mean time, I recommend you get a laptop cooling stand.
Hey there, I would like to replace the internal hard dive of my laptop which is easy enough to do, but would I need to buy a new version of Windows 7 to install or would I be able to use the External Recovery Media disc that came with the laptop when I brought it?
If the discs contain all you need to restore the OS you should be fine. If the discs require a recovery partition on the current laptop drive, you'll need to do some work to get that onto the new drive.
Hello to anyone reading this I ve dropped my laptop and after that my screen didn t work anymore the picture was al garbled Although it still does work when I plug it on an external screen So I thought in that case it has to be something with the screen or the cable GM2W - replacing it Ares after black Screen PackerBell So I replaced them with new ones the screen Product P -T and the cable Product P Screen black after replacing it - PackerBell Ares GM2W -T I even wanted to replace the backlight inverter but seeing that the new and the old inverter had the exact same result I stuck with the old original one Now when I turn it on I only get a black not blank screen When I use the Fn F key combo to switch to the external screen it still works When I then switch back to the laptop the screen works there too until the screen is reinitialised witch happens a few times during startup then it goed back to black This does however only work as long as Windows hasn t loaded yet because in Windows this little trick doesn t work anymore and the laptop screen doesn t come back on when I try to switch to it I ve tried removing battery and power holding power button up to a minute and then turning it back on again but that doesn t do anything So now I m fresh out of ideas and teh intarwebz has no new ideas to offer me so I thought maybe just maybe some other geek has had this same problem or even better works for PackerdBell and knows exactly whats going on here and can give me the solution So If your out there and know what I can do and that doesn t mean ways to get artisticly agressive believe me I ve thought of those gt PLEASE help me Thanks for any replies in advance nbsp
It sounds to me like a graphics chip gone bad get someone to check it out for you.
So I recently had my main computer crash and break to the point I need a new computer so I figured I'd make it worth it this time.
Here's the deal: (add the www to see it)tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=6327547&SRCCODE=GOOGLEBASE&cm_mmc_o=VRqCjC7BBTkwCjCECjCE
Everything on there seems decent but I am curious about the board itself. Would the Intel Desktop Board DP55WB Motherboard be good for gaming, which I wish to use my computer mainly for. I have at most a 700 dollar budget and this seems like a nice deal for it. I plan on putting a Geforce GTX 580 graphics card in it as soon as I get the money as a little side note if it matters.
So I recently had my main computer crash and break to the point I need a new computer so I figured I'd make it worth it this time.
Here's the deal: (add the www to see it)tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=6327547&SRCCODE=GOOGLEBASE&cm_mmc_o=VRqCjC7BBTkwCjCECjCE
Everything on there seems decent but I am curious about the board itself. Would the Intel Desktop Board DP55WB Motherboard be good for gaming, which I wish to use my computer mainly for. I have at most a 700 dollar budget and this seems like a nice deal for it. I plan on putting a Geforce GTX 580 graphics card in it as soon as I get the money as a little side note if it matters.Click to expand...
I'd suggest looking at the same chipset, but in either Gigabyte or Asus brands. Intel boards are fine, as much as it goes, but the BIOS is very limited as to configuration for different memory, and overclocking options. Intel really markets it's boards as mainstream items, intended for average users and businesses, they're not really aimed at the enthusiast.
The feature set can vary widely from board to board, and you should have a look at these pages to see which board has the capabilities you need;
Asus P-55; http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...600008069 600008216&IsNodeId=1&name=Intel P55
Gigabyte P-55; http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...600008069 600008216&IsNodeId=1&name=Intel P55
I need to buy a new printer to replace my Canon Pixma iP4000. Things I'm looking for are: separate color ink cartridges and paper feed from the top (this is crucial--I bought an iP4820 and it's going back because it will only feed regular paper from the bottom and photo paper from the top). I print an occasional photo, but do not feel that I must have a photo printer anymore. I'm looking in the $150 or less price range. I would prefer a Canon because it's what I'm used to, but am open to suggestions. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Welcome to Techspot Melissa1434,
I bought a Epson TX 100 for $58.00 from Officeworks here in Australia. Out of the box with free refills of ink and when it came time to replace these they are easy on the purse strings. Three colours Cyan, Yellow, Magenta with Black as the alternative. And it does print photos though I have not needed to use that facility yet.
Edit- 20/11/10 just found a sale on for some carton damaged Epson printers "Promotion only available on Shop Online, hurry while stocks last." here in Australia
listed in Hot Deals too.
I replaced the harddrive on my HP Pavilion DV1000 laptop. I have the original disks that came with the computer. I set bios to boot from cd. However when I turn the computer on with the xp cd in the optical drive, I just get a blank screen. I can here the cd drive start and stop. Any suggestions on what the problem may be?
Hi , Is the hard drive you have fitted brand new, nothing on it? Or does it have an OS on it from previous PC? In the BIOS does the new drive show in the list ? And are you using a genuine MS Windows disc, or the HP recovery disc, (as supplied with a new PC?).
how do u know if u have on board sound card on ibm
The easiest recognition sign would be 3.5mm jack plugs on the rear panel of the motherboard.
3 (Green, blue, pink) is common on older boards, 4, 5 or more commonly 6 jacks for newer (and 5.1 +) sound codecs.
If you post some details of the system/board the forum will be able to give you a more definitive answer.
Wondering if anyone has tried a non-Nocona, E-ATX dual Xeon board in the HAF 932. I'm talking one of the newer Dual-Xeon boards. I know I lose the single-CPU ATX back opening, but I'm more concerned about if it actually handles a dual-Xeon E-ATX board.
Thanks for any help.
I plan to upgrade my video card from geforce 9500GT to geforece GTS250.. my mother board model is gigabyte GA-M61PME-S2P..
Powersupply? Just making sure...
I have an e Machine T-series with Ati Radeon xpress 200 series. recently the borders and text in any window started becoming very "fuzzy looking", making it very difficult to read text.. I tried the system recovery with no change. Should I try to update the video drivers from a a download site or, replace the card on the board? plz help, I cant afford a new computer. thanks so much.
if this has degraded overtime and was not fixed with a restore of the system it's probably a hardware issue and won't be fixed by a driver update. Have you checked to be sure it's not the monitor? Do you have another video card you can try just to see if that fixes the issue?
I want to put together two of the new GTX 460 video cards and using an i7-870 proc.
Any SLI mobo recommendations?
what price range are you in here?
......Hmmmmm, something tells me Chef will be here in a minute with 3....no...make that 4 recommendations.
I want to turn on my PC automatically during late hours so that I can do some downloads and maintenance works on my PC automatically!!
But I cant find an option for RTC alarm enabling in this BIOS!!
Whats wrong with this Mobo?
Will any one help me?
After a series of computer and network failures mostly due to electrical storms and electrical contractors I decided to upgrade my old Netgear router to a new Netgear Wireless-N router I have used Network Magic to manage my networked computers and when I decided to upgrade NM the new version didn t support my old router So it seemed like an all over upgrade update was in order What should have been a simple process-- turn everything off disconnect the old router replace it with the new router and router Netgear router not found wireless - Replacing go through the set up process cable modem on then router on etc has turned into a mystery I used the Netgear startup wizard followed step by step more than once and each time I got to the last part of the process it stalled saying quot No Router Found quot It Replacing Netgear wireless router - router not found was only after several unsuccessful attempts that I decided to open my control panel and check things out Network Connections showed my status as quot connected quot so I opened my browser and found that I am able to connect to the internet What I have not been able to do is to set up my network network security etc I tried to initiate Network Magic for set Replacing Netgear wireless router - router not found up with the same results-- quot no router found quot Anyone know what I have going on here Am I only connected through the LAN connection perhaps To make matters further complicated my phone service is Vonage VOIP and the Vonage device has failed so I m waiting for the new one to arrive can t even call out for help Any suggestions information would be appreciated I m pretty much a novice at this-- at least I am when following the directions leads me nowhere Thanks Tricia nbsp
let's establish what IS working and then deal with Network Macgic
I assume these simple tests all work:
ping the router address using the ip address
nslookup www.google.com. returns an ip address (notice the period after .com)
ping www.google.com works
and tracert www.google.com works also
and your browser has no problems (just the be sure)
Here is what I see; I assume you have everything EXCEPT the router
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Hi I have been having problems with my hdd s circuit board on my dell d I aint sure what happen I think it Toshiba circuit HDD board was just my bad luck Anyways I was wondering if its possible of saving the HDD by switching the board with one of the same model boughten brand new off the internet Also I forgot to mention that I put a master password Bios password also applied but thats not a problem since I am able to enter my password on the hdd so no could get into it without my consent just in case it got stolen I am just wondering if that will screw anything up with the new circuit board The name and model of the hdd is Toshiba Toshiba HDD circuit board MK GAX I hope someone can give Toshiba HDD circuit board me some advice on this topic because I don t want to wast my money which ever way I go buy a new hdd or just a circuit board Please respond and thanks in advance nbsp
Come on people, just don't let me hang. I need something, thoughts, ideas, and/or anything else. I just don't want to leave with nothing...
I will be upgrading my system in july and was wondering if anyone can recomend a new cpu, motherboard and DDR3 sims. I currently have an E8500, ASUS P5N-32E, GTX275, Corsair TX650 PSU and 4gig of DDR2. I was thinking of going with the an Intel Core i7 930 2.80Ghz (Bloomfield) (Socket LGA1366). Can anyone recomend a good board around Ģ150-180 that will fit this CPU and also some DDR3 sims?
The Asus P6X58D-E is a great motherboard at your price point.
Are you planning on going with 6GB of DDR3 memory to utilise the CPU's triple channel memory controller? What's your budget for the memory?
Hey guys i still have my Intel Pentium D I have my main gaming rig which is the Quad Q and my secondary rig which is the emachine Intel e system I want to have a final Motherboard Replacing a rig the rd rig so instead of buying another rig lol i want to replace the MB in the Intel Pentium D system i was told that this is my rig http www intel com support motherboards desktop d ggc sb cs- htm http www newegg com Product Product aspx Item N E Now recently i bought a brand new WD GB Internal HD a sata connector molex thing and some sata cords because i have no plans to change the watts PSU in it but i need those things to make my sata hd work Anyways i am looking to replace the MB but wanted to know my mb is a micro atx can i replace it with any micro atx mb If you can find a simple mb that would be nice anything better then this pentium d system also the fsb is low so i am looking for a powerful single core or a different dual core or triple core etc Price range bucks and up limit to OH AND I NEED A CPU LOL nbsp
you can get this
Combo Deal AMD Athlon II X2 255 Regor 3.1GHz & MSI 785GM-E51 AM3 $144.98
RAM - Kingston 2GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1066 $48.99
I know this might not be possible but I'm wondering if you can uses two SLI cards, but use the on board port to push the output video. I have two 9800 GT cards with dual DVI connections. The motherboard has a HDMI output and I would like to hook this pc to my HDTV. I can hook the the on board port just fine but the system doesn't use the graphic cards at all. Is their a way to make the graphics cards work when their ports are not in use? Thanks in advance!
2 X 9800 GT
1220 modular power supply
Dual core AMD 3.2 GHz
2 X 500 GB hardddrive
4 GB of RAM
obviously it wouldn't work. you cannot expect the graphic card to output the display to onboard HDMI port right? it's time for DVI to HDMI converter.
How do i fix or enable my system board Dell Latitude C640 on my laptop ?? Question US Marine in Iraq needs help azap!!!!!!!Sempre Fi USMC
You'll have to explain what is "system board" and what exact problems you're having.
I have an old Dell XPS Gen2 with WD Raptors in RAID0 using WinXP. I want to upgrade to Win7, but there are no RAID controller drivers for Win7 for this machine. So I want to remove the RAID array and replace it with an Intel SSD (only 2 SATA connectors on MB). Questions: do I physically remove the WD drives first? Do I turn off RAID in the RAID controller (^I at startup) or in the BIOS setup (^F12) first? Does it matter?
Thanks for any advice.
Hello all I m new here almost as new at poking around inside my computer at this point its nothing lost nothing gained I have read several hundred posts of others who also fell victim to these substandard machines An e machines label wont be on my desktop again even if its case is blotted out with whiteout Anyway enough rant I m here for your help I have an model T amd athlon failed board victim Unknowing emachine, 754/478 socket replacement, of power supply that took the motherboard with it originally a - bit Unknowing victim of emachine, board replacement, socket 754/478 Mhz gb x machine msi MotherBoard I have looked at options and due to purpose or use of it I remain torn as to the best way to replace it seems Unknowing victim of emachine, board replacement, socket 754/478 Cputopia com On Sale has a motherboard basic single core board processor and processor fan for a Unknowing victim of emachine, board replacement, socket 754/478 bit over a hundred dollars dependent on options selected they also have a box case processor board and power supply for around dependent upon how equipped while the power supply upgrade is at one page its at another No big deal about that Anyway my other option is to get a sole independent board with the same socket as my oem processor motherboard and reuse my Atlon Processor - HD - DVD-Cd and new windows program as such Now the crux of the problem is I have seen T quot s listed here and elsewhere as having come from the factory equipped as socket and processor as well as How do I know or how can I tell which one I have I need to compare performance of the T - socket to the Sempron quot its been suggested this Sempron also comes in a variety of speeds and cores some better some worse than the Atlon it is dependent on the encoded processor suffix quot No description of such is available with the advertised replacement board and case at cputopia and I certainly don t want to go down or backward in speed or performance There are no performance specs advertised with this Cputopia com replacement board case cpu fan or other optional parts available either essentially no sepec no matter what I buy of the sempron All replys will be appreciated my budget doesnt give me room for errors do it once and do it right the first time wish I had been this cautious when I bought the emachine but budget was not as bad as now come Halloween I m gonna put lipstick on it put it outside and call it a pig with a big emachine billboard Regards to all here Leo nbsp
Dude, get a grip. I know less about computers now than before I read your post.
I thought that socket 478 was Intel (Pentium Celeron), now I come to find out that it's AMD.
An AMD Sempron 3000 only comes in one speed, if it's another speed, then it has a different number.
All of the s*** you mention is beyond obsolete, so maybe it's time for a whole 'nuther computer. Please, I heartily suggest that you avoid attempting to build a machine, at least in your current state of mind.
I don't think that any of us here are really equipped to deal with the anxiety, angst, or incoherent and rambling thought patterns you have exhibited thus far, let alone what you're trying to pass off as sentence structure.
BTW, my Emachines T-5026 just reached its 5th birthday. If you'd like to check in and wish it many happy returns, (pun not intended), here's the link; http://www.techspot.com/vb/topic143315.html
I would argue that it is not really possible to be an "unknowing victim" of Emachines.
You bought it because it was cheap, cheap s*** breaks. So where's the surprise, the mystery, or the unpredictability?
I've got an old ECS Elitegroup PF21 extreme motherboard. Now ever since I reformatted I have had no sound from my on board audio. The only way I have been able to was through my USB headset. I've never formatted a computer and it was my first time. Everything works perfectly fine and I have no problems other then this. Does any one know what could have gone wrong?
Download the drivers from the motherboard's support site here
My config: amd X2 4000+ , asus AM2 m-atx mobo.
I read this guide about oiling cpu fans. so i proceeded to remove the fan and then applied oil as instructed. Since i have done this, the fan has become exceedingly noisy.
It always used to make a lil annoying buzz before . But now its exceedingly loud. Is there a way to fix this ? like somehow open the fan or change bearings or something... ?
If I have to purchase something then , I want to go as quiet as possible .
These i think are my options:
1. get cheapo fan replacement (would probably be noisy)
2. get some nice pricey quiet fan , and use it with stock heatsink.
3. replace heatsink and fan by aftermarket cooler for pin-drop silence.
I don't have an exact budget, but as always lesser the better.
ASUS m-atx mobo , m-atx cabinet (i think) AMD X2 4000+ AM2 socket.
suggest something please. I am willing to mod/tinker with things...
Have you tried ASUS? NewEgg, Directron, Frys?
It doesn't need to be pricey.
Replace the heat sink and fan as one package for best results.
Now you know why we warn against oiling ANY fan bearings.
It appears my DVD/CD drive has bit the dust, at least it will not recognize any CD but will play a movie DVD. This drive is an IDE.
Thinking about replacing it with a SATA DVD/CD drive as they are now less expensive then IDE drives.
My MB has an extra SATA connection available, the other one is used by the SATA HDD.
Question: can I do this replacement and is it essentially a "plug and play" in the set-up?
Does anything need to changed in the BIOS?
MB: MSI K8MM-V
OS: Windows 2000Pro w/SP4
Any direction is appreciated.
According to the description of your setup, yes, it is basically a plug and play deal.
The mother board is an ASUS P5Q? I know the adapter is working because I can hook the cable that comes from the case to another sata slot shut down turn the enclosure on and boot and I have a third hard drive. But that is not how I would like to do it. If the mother board would recognize the enclosure it would give me an icon in the tray to shut it off and I would not have to reboot to back up something.
Thank u for any help
I have about 5 choices for motherboards here and all of them are within my budget. But all these mobos seem to have fairly the same reviews. So can you please help me decide? BTW I do plan to overclock my system.
- Gigabyte GA P55MUD3
- ASUS P7P55 D
- Intel DP55KG
- MSI P55 GD65
- Gigabyte GA P55M UD2
Probably the MSI would offer the best all round feature set. All would offer basically the same stock performance.
I'm personally not a great fan of MSI, but that's because of personal experience with their P35/P45/680i and 780i boards. Haven't worked with a P55 based board as yet (too expensive in this part of the world) so as with the other choices I would seek out customer reviews as a basis for comparison in addition to published spec sheets and reviews.
I have a problem and I think it s memory related I read the post about quot Dual-Channel Memory in Single-Channel Motherboard quot But it didn t help plus it was memory channel Dual board? single in Channel from Here s my computer it s old I know I don t have the money to upgrade all of it - Intel Pentium D GHz - EVGA GeForce GS MB GDDR PCI Express - Intel D GGCL ATI Socket Dual Channel memory in single channel board? MicroATX Motherboard - GB x MB PC DDR MHz CL Memory - Ultra -Watt power supply - Windows XP bit I recently bought a memory upgrade GB x GB -Pin DDR SDRAM DDR PC Dual Channel Kit My computer worked fine minus the small memory amount before I installed the new memory After I installed the new RAM my computer posted got to the windows splash screen got to the log in screen let me log in then loaded the OS While loading the OS and launching other start-up programs my computer froze I restarted many times and it fixed it It never got past a few seconds after loading the OS and a few programs I reinstalled my old memory and it worked fine again without a hitch What is the problem Is it the fact that the new memory is dual channel and the motherboard is single channel I re-read the specs of my mobo and it said that dual channel is optional However when I go to the BOIS menu F on startup it says quot single channel mode quot whith the new dual channel kit is in Is there something in the BIOS I should change Something to download Please Help Thanks in advance - Veng nbsp
Well, I can say I solved my own problem.
After I spent the last 4 hours trying to find the problem. I ran a bunch of mem tests, cleaned the mem slots, etc... It turns out it wasn't a hardware issue at all. I was wiggling my mouse on start up and noted the time it froze... and every time it froze an application was launching in the system tray.
Turns out it was Norton F'ing Anti Virus....
The second it launched the computer froze. So I booted in safe mode and disabled the start up and all other functions of Norton. Rebooted in normal mode, and sure enough, it worked! Without a hitch!
Now here comes the Beach of it. Since I couldn't uninstall Norton because I disabled it (i.e. nothing would run because all the extensions, shells and services for it were dead), I rebooted in safe mode to uninstall, BUT Norton doesn't work in safe mode... WHAT!? The damn program specifically states in a condescending dialog box that you "must reboot in normal mode to access Norton... blah blah blah"
What kind of Virus program doesn't let you access it in safe mode? Isn't that the point, to run a virus scan in safe mode? Piece of crap! But anyways, I digress.
So now I finagled a way to run in normal mode without Norton launching to uninstall it. Uninstalling as we speak, actually.
To answer my own question:
Yes, dual channel kits work in single channel boards (Just make sure you uninstall Norton before you put the new RAM in, haha).
p.s. After this... I'm switching to McAfee or some sh*t.... Christ. YOU HEAR ME NORTON!? GO SUCK A FAT HAIRY LOBSTER C*CK!
I am getting a new video card for my Dell 8300. The new card is a GeForce 7300GT 512 MB DDR2. I was advised that I will need to upgrade my PSU, but have heard that replacing a PSU for the Dell 8300 is difficult. Does anyone have any instructions? I am looking at getting a Silencer 410 Dell2 PSU, as it is advertised as being specifically compatible for the Dell 8300.
"I am looking at getting a Silencer 410 Dell2 PSU, as it is advertised as being specifically compatible for the Dell 8300"...
This should work fine. It is easy to replace the power supply, just be careful to identify all the connections from the old power supply to the motherboard and to the hard drives and CDROMs, so you can attach the new supply properly. There is usually 4 screws or clips that hold the power supply in place. If you are at all mechanically inclined, you will figure it out
I need to order my mother a 22 inch monitor but I'm not sure which one to order. I would prefer to order it from newegg but if their is a good deal on one somewhere else tell me! It will have to be connected by d sub not dvi so I'm not sure if image quality is a very big deal. She will use it for browsing and 2d games such as zuma and bejeweled as well as browsing but her ancient pc only has integrated graphics so will it handle it fine?
I was thinking that these ones looked good but I'm not sure which will be most reliable.
Edit: Ahh yes of coarse I forgot to mention the budget, 150 to 170 would be ideal.
Any help would be appreciated.
Hey im thinking of upgrading my pc so i can just hook it up hdmi to my tv. Ive looked around and my mobo only supports pci cards, which when i checked the hdmi out cards were a bit pricey. It also has one agp 4x slot but cant find a decent card in that department.
Should i get a new MOBO instead with an integrated hdmi out because another benefit of that would be a better CPU and ram support (mine currently says max memory is 1 gig on crucial, but i looked up the serial and says it supports 2) I do want a faster and stronger rig but dont know if all my components would matche up with a new board.
What would i need to look for in terms of choosing either of these options. My case apparently supports uATX (micro).
Depends on your cash situation. Sounds like your PC is a bit old so a refresh would be in order. Particularly if you have a nice TV, you are probably going to want to use the PC for gaming/media.
My Fujitsu Amilo Li1705 laptop has been reaching full capacity (80gb) for a while so I decided to get a new hard drive.
I've updated the RAM from 1gb to 2gb with no problem.
My hard drive has arrived but with no cables, instructions etc. and searching the web has proved just as unfruitful as most sites refer to external hard drives.
I don't have an external disc so was wondering if there's any way of copying everything over. I've heard of temporarily taking the CD drive out to have the two drives at once but wouldn't know where to start.
Any help/ instructions would be much appreciated.
Obviously you did not build a Recovery Disc originally?
You can just order a Recovery Disc from HERE
If your machine is not supported, then then sometimes the Fujitsu forum members will help, at Their Forum
That's 3 ways of getting your Recovery media. I hope it helps
Could someone give me a link to a motherboard beeper as this board does not come with one?
thank u Nick
How about this one? http://www.cwc-group.com/8ohm.html
I tried to install windows onto my laptop. It went through the set up process, but when it got to the install part, I got an error message stating that Windows could not find a HDD installed on my computer. So, thinking something was wrong with the HDD, I bought a new Wester Digital HDD. After installing the new HDD, I again tried installing windows, with the same outcome. Someone has told me that Compaq is bad about putting "blinder" codes in their BIOS to hide the HDD from being overwritten. I called Compaq Tech Support, but because my warranty is out, they wanted an arm and a leg to "help". Is there any truth to this? Does anyone have a solution for this problem?
If this is a SATA hard drive, you need to install SATA controller drivers at the F6 prompt. Since this procedure needs a floppy drive and you probably don't have one, go into the BIOS and see if you can change the controller from SATA or AHCI mode to IDE mode. If have this option, then Setup should continue.
Hey all I am totally new to overclocking or working with the inside of a computer in everyway I watched my friend put this computer together for me he recommended what parts I buy etc about years ago The only thing I did was to pop in the RAM Ok so basic questions I have then I will list my specs Is it worth it for me to overclock I am super tight on cash and just want to buy some new RAM and get this thing faster for about - months till I can afford a new computer I am considering buying gb of Kingston ValueRAM GB x GB -Pin DDR SDRAM DDR PC System Memory Model KVR X C AK G - Retail for bucks thats my budget unfortunately So is it a good idea Any advice on some basics of how I can begin to overclock on this board Specs Neo4-F 3200+ K8N on for to Looking AMD advice board my OC follow Name AMD Looking for advice to OC my AMD 3200+ on K8N Neo4-F board Athlon Code Name Venice Brand ID Package Socket Technology nm Core Voltage V Family Model Ext Family F Ext Model F Stepping Revision DH-E Instructions MMX DNow SSE SSE SSE x - Core Speed MHz Multiplier x Bus Speed MHz HT Link MHz Looking for advice to OC my AMD 3200+ on K8N Neo4-F board L Data KBytes -way L Inst KBytes -way Level KBytes -way Caches Size KBytes Descriptor -way set associative -byte line size L Cache Size KBytes L Cash Descriptor -way set associative -byte line size L Cache Size KBytes L Cash Descriptor way set associative -byte line size Motherboard Manufacturer MICRO-STAR INTERNATIONAL CO LTD Model MS- version Chipset NVIDIA nForce Rev A Southbridge NVIDIA nForce MCP LPCIO W EHF Brand Phoenix Technologies LTD Version PG Graphic Interface Version PCI-Express Link Width x Max Supported x my card NVIDIA GeForce GT with nm technology Core MHz Size MBytes Shaders MHz Memory MHz Type DDR Bus Width bits Memory x MBytes Kingmax Semiconductor slices or w e you call em Type DDR Channels Single Size MBytes DRAM Frequency MHz FSB DRAM is CPU CAS clocks RAS to CAS Delay tRCD clocks RAS Precharge tRP clocks Cycle Time tRAS clocks Bank Cycle Time tRC clocks Command Rate CR T DRAM Idle Timer clocks Max Bandwidth PC MHz My current RAM timing tables Frequency of JEDEC MHz CAS Latency of JEDEC RAS to CAS of JEDEC RAS Precharge of JEDEC tRAS of JEDEC Voltage for JEDEC V Frequency of JEDEC MHz CAS Latency of JEDEC RAS to CAS of JEDEC RAS Precharge of JEDEC tRAS of JEDEC Voltage of JEDEC V I hope that is all the information necessary It took me a long time to type it all out Too bad this CPUZ program doesn t have an easy copy paste text file Please let me know if there is anything else I need to provide that can help out Thank you so much to anyone out there willing to take time to help me out nbsp
HI calio, welcome to Techspot
what is it you want to accomplish with OC'ing? is it for gaming performance?
I plan to build my own computer since the DELL gx280 have given hard time to me. The i5 process would like to be my system in this time. Here is the list what I estimate on ebay (mostly)
CPU: Intel Core 2 q9400 - $190 OR i5 - $200
CPU Fan: ???
M/B: Asus P5KPL-CM - $60 OR Intel DP55WB - $100
Ram: Kingston 4gb DDR2 800mhz - $60 OR DD3 -$70
Video: ATI Radeon 4850 - $124
HDD: Western Digital 500GB 32mb, 7200 rpm - $56
DVD-RW: LG DVD-RW - $31
CASE: standard ATX Tower with 500w power - $45
I have no idea about a CPU cooler. What I heard that the CPU cooler should be different ones depends on the M/B and case.
What kinds of cooler can I use for my system? Also how am I able to firgue that out?
Fast Healthy Weight Loss
I plan to build my own computer since the DELL gx280 have given hard time to me.
I want to replace the original hard drive with a larger capacity drive, the original is (don't laugh):
Hitachi DK23DA-20, 20GB, ATA5, EIDE, 4200rpm
DELL's site gives me little to go on for replacement parts but an alternative site suggests:
160GB ATA100 5400 rpm drive
I have found a Toshiba 320GB ATA/300 5400rpm at Fry's. Is there anything I need to know about the ATA type to ensure compatibility? Will this ATA300 drive work with my system which previously had an ATA5 drive?
Toshiba makes a very good drive. We rate it among the top three, along with Seagate, Western Digital, and Fusjitsu. In our repair shop over the past 20 years, Toshiba has been our most reliable drive. A 5400 rpm drive will last longer than a 7200 rpm drive, and that speed will be noticeable...
Also look at www.directron.com, www.zipzoomfly.com, www.TigerDirect.com, and PCMall.com among others... prices vary almost daily.
Be sure you are getting the right type of drive... some are SATA, SATAII, EIDE, and ATA6...
It is difficult to return hard drives, so be sure you are getting what you need.
The 320 GB is a good choice, and will be almost as inexpensive as the 160... and most certainly less costly per gigabyte.
Ive got a toshiba laptop and i went to sleep watching a dvd on it.
It fell off my bed and now when i type it doesnt keep up to speed even if i plug a different keyboard into it and use that.
I constantly have to go back and r-type everything i do
Any suggestions on how to possibly sort it out myself?
Dropping a laptop can do all kinds of damage... If you're not comfortable taking laptops apart, you will have to take it to a computer repair shop
I have ( and currently using) onboard audio for my sound output. It is Realtek onboard audio for an ASUS MOBO. Its 8 channel audio and im purchasing a sound card. It's a Creative Labs 7.1 sound card with EAX. Is it a good upgrade? I'm sure it is but im just looking for some quality advice first
It's not quite the same as switching from on-board video to a discrete video GPU card, but it's the best comparison that I can think of. At least with the video you can see a significant difference. With audio it's a little harder to hear a difference, especially since you need a good speaker set to reference from. If your CPU is a little down in power then you'll notice some improvement in games too. A lot of the crackling and poorly addressed effects will be cleaned up. For me, I was also able to hear other players further in a map than I could with on-board audio.
One thing to add to this brand of card that you're buying: The manufacture makes different audio profiles available in their software for this card. These profiles are designed for entertainment, games, etc... Enabling or disabling a profile might make the difference if EAX is available in-game or not. If it does not come with the manufacture's software, I would suggest looking for a disc ISO since this software would be necessary to configure the card for these options. And the updates at the manufacture's website might be incomplete.
gigabyte X48TDQ6 mobo
2X2gb ocz ddr3 1600mhz
i have run my system for about a year with q6600 cpu with no problems with this mobo,memory,graphic card.
yesterday i have changed my cpu to qx9650 with the intel stock cpu fan. when i play games after 20 minutes i get bsod and the system reboot even in regular use on desktop.
the cpu temp in idele is about 27 deg. (not seems beacuse overhit)
on bios everythind on standart/auto (no o.c).
i upgrade my bios revision.
the bsod is "not less or equel" something:
Problem Event Name: BlueScreen
OS Version: 6.0.6001.2.1.0.256.1
Locale ID: 1037
Additional information about the problem:
OS Version: 6_0_6001
Service Pack: 1_0
thanx 4 any help.
look on the box the CPU came in, or run CPU-z and see what the revision is. If it is an E0 you need BIOS F8D beta to run that CPU. At least that is what Gigabyte is showing for that CPU on the GA-X48-DQ6 mobo. I couldn't find a GA-X48-TDQ6 mobo listed on their site. Typo or wrong region possibly? Also check windows updates. There may be something for that CPU, or maybe you need more than SP1 on your OS? Your BSOD screen by the way is referencing a failure to read paged memory.
Hi everyone I am having problems with the sound card on my ACER PC and I asked the people I brought my 2nd hand ACER Veriton 3500v from what they did to the PC re formatting the HDD and loading it up with WIN XP Pro again. Apparently they used a program called KIlldisk that wrote 0?s to the HDD before they formatted it? They formatted it in FAT32 then loaded the op system.
As the sound card etc was working o?k prior to them doing this would it have been possible that using KIlldisk has turned ?off ? some how the sound card etc? And if so how can I turn it back on? I keep getting a msg Multimedia Audio Controller not loaded code 28 can you help.
have you re-installed the sound driver?
also,go into your BIOS set up and enable the onboard sound.
A while back user quot raybay quot posted some thinkpad r51 on Replacing backlight/inverter guidance on replacing the backlight and or inverter on an ibm thinkpad r notebook Here is a quote Inverter That is a very high price for an inverter for an R but the R is a very rare computer so you may have to pay it you need a very Replacing backlight/inverter on thinkpad r51 good quality hard steel philips Replacing backlight/inverter on thinkpad r51 screw driver great care in removing and replacing the screw covers and the time it takes to remove and replace screws But the inverter just plugs in Mark all your screws as you remove them as they are not all the same length or diameter But the most important function is removing the screw hole covers so you can use them again You will benefit from a very very thin flat blade Replacing backlight/inverter on thinkpad r51 screw driver or other tool to lift the screw covers out and off You will need a nice adhesive that remains soft when you replace them It is very rare for an inverter to go out in that model What I m wondering is this sounds like instructions for replacing just the inverter but what if my problem is with my backlight as well or instead Apparently they can also be replaced but I ve read suggestions that this may involve soldering If you are lurking raybay do you know specifically what is required to replace the backlight on this model nbsp
You can get the inverter, new, on eBay for $9.95 on up to $20... DO NOT BUY A USED ONE, and DO NOT BUY ONE FOR A SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT MODEL. It is the screen that determines the model number... and that inverter/backlight is part of that particular model number.
Your inverter and your backlight are basically the same thing the failure of one affects the other... or they are in the same device depending on the laptop.
None of the IBM Lenovo units need soldering... but you have to remove about 20 screws, and remove the rubberized screw covers... so making it pretty again when you are done is the hard part... as you have to learn how to reapply the screw covers and the rubberized stickum.
USE VERY GOOD, VERY TOUGH TOOLS. DO NOT USE TOOLS that wear easily. Cheap toosl will mar the screws and ruin stuff.
First you buy the backlight.
Second, remove the keyboard.
Third, you remove the screw covers with a very thin device like a 1/2 or #1 flat screw driver, only with thinner metal... and some tweezers to lift off and store the screw covers which are mostly very thin, round flat rubber disks.
You need some soft of bowl or series of cups where you can put the different size screws. You need to keep a chart of which size screws come from where... Unless you have a good mind for those sorts of things and nobody does.
You may find it easier to remove the back of the computer where the screen is kept... and CAREFULLY remove the ribbon cable for the screen that plugs in beneath the keyboard.
Keep in mind that after a laptop has aged a year or two, the plastics become very brittle and easily shatter.
Take your time. Force nothing.
When you have all the screws out, the screen will come apart from the case.
Then at the bottom of the screen you will find a device about the size of a ball point pen or maybe even thinner.
You remove that device by unplugging, it, then insert the new one.
Be sure it is stable. We use a bit of masking tape or electrical tape to hold it in place.
Then put everything back together using the longest screws first.
You can leave it ugly at first, then put your screw covers on last. You may have to order new ones if you screwed things up.
When you are done, you will wish you had taken more time and done a better job, but it is too late now.
It wills work fine, but if it belongs to your girlfriend or ex wife, you may want to hide out..
After cleaning my computer free of dust, I reinstalled all the necessary parts to get the computer working again. When I was to put the processor back, I found that:
1) the pins were a little bit bent but I think they bent back in place when i put it back
2) In order to put back on motherboard, i had to remove the processor from the fan and that means the thermal paste was somewhat removed.
So the biggest question I have is: Is re-adding thermal paste necessary? and is this why its been shutting down?
I have just installed a new gigabyte GA-G31M-ES2L motherboard with 2gig of Kingston valueram 667mhz ddr2 and a Intel Pentium 4 presscott 3.0ghz cpu. I connected everything as it should be and decided to use the onboard graphics of the motherboard to start with. When i tried to boot it up but the fans spin and the drives spin up for about 8 seconds before the power cuts off. I thought this is the power supply as it may be underpowered at 350 watts but the only other PSU i had to test with is only 300 watts so i couldnt rule out the PSU. Could anybody tell me what could be wrong with this pc as i need to get it fixed asap.
Thanks in advance,
You need to make sure that you connect the 4 or 8 pin CPU 12 volt connector to the motherboard socket near the CPU
Anyone else who has lived through this knows the pains of which I will speak a a VAIO - Replacing tips MJPC-300A1 few Original PSU is proprietary with VERY little Replacing a VAIO MJPC-300A1 - a few tips room inside case to use quot standard quot ATX supply Also the OEM units and the aftermarket seem to be made with unobtanium or some other rare element that makes the cost gt Besides being only about quot deep it also has a power jack for speaker and an external fan control from the MB that is monitored My solution I gutted the old ps housing and screwed a mATX watt unit to it It fits inside case nicely has enough oumph to run the unit dvd movie playing while hd defrags and it is actually quiet too Long term results are pending but so far so good The only provision I didn t make was for power to supply speakers But I have long since stopped using originals for a nice piece set As for the MB fan controller it CAN be disabled in the bios but you will need the old PSU opened up to allow it With my replacement PS in place I kept getting an error on bootup Easy enough to bypass just press F and you are on your way A more permanent solution is to disable the monitor in the bios To do this you will need the new PSU in place connected and running and the old PSU NOT powered up but just the wire connector connecetd to the MB When you boot up enter setup F and arrow over to POWER tab lt enter gt you will see the fan monitors Without an input to the MB it will only read rpm and will not highlight Once you get the proper signal in there it will give a speed and then be able to be highlighted and toggled OFF You will need to connect a wire fan you can use the rear case fan like I did to the spot on the PS where the ps fan connects and jumper power into the fan I used one of those fan taps that pulls power from a pin molex and small wires in the back of the fan connectors Black to black red to red as soon as the fan started to spin I toggled the fan to not monitored and save and exit bios Put everything back the way it should be shazam New PS quiet and bonus all for about Just my Good luck on yours nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/replacing-a-vaio-mjpc-300a1-a-few-tips.129045/
My on board video adapter is non functional. I am trying to replace it with a PCI video adapter but the issue is that I cannot see the screen in order to gain access to the BIOS and disable the on board video adapter. Anyone have any other ideas other than replacing the motherboard?
I have confirmed that the video adapter is broken at the motherboard.
It is a Emachine desktop.
so you can't see any display?