I accidentically deleted a user (built-in), I found that I have no way to
add any new user.
OS:Windows XP Profession Edition
I recommend downloading and running Reimage. It's a computer repair tool that has been proven to identify and fix many Windows problems with a high level of success.
I've used it in the past to identify and fix everything from blue screens (BSOD's), ActiveX errors, corrupt files and processes, dll/exe/sys errors, recover lost memory, Windows update problems, defragging, malware removal etc.
You can download it direct from this link http://downloadreimage.com/directdownload.php. (This link will automatically start a download of Reimage that you can save to your computer.)
Right click on "My Computer."
Expand "Local User and Group."
Right click on the "New User" folder and select "Add New User."
Does a cooling pad work on a laptop that doesn't have vents on the bottom?
I have an HP Probook 455 G1 and the cooling pad doesn't seem to work at all.
Every 10 seconds audio manager will set the volume on my mic to 0 and mute it I have already tried to uninstall it and reinstall it but no result.
It may be malware but I am not sure as of yet. Would really appreciate help right now.
Problem Solved, As suspected it was malware. To fix this launch task manager, then go to start up, go through the list if something dosn't have a icon or dosn't seem to fit in right click and open its file location. If you are definite that it is malware disable it, restart go to the file location and delete all the files.
this post was edited
My laptop: toshiba satellite l550 ... The part no. Is PSLWSA-01000Q
OS: Win 7 32 bit Professional.
Problem: let me give you an overview of my laptop.... It was very slow until recently I did a system restore ... It is a laptop with fans that rev all the time and has the ability to overheat and shutoff once the laptop gets to about 105 degrees celsius.
My problem today is that I cannot boot the computer past the BIOS ... all the components within the boot menu fail to boot... These consist of in order of my boot settings.
1. P1-Toshiba MK5055GSX
2. P4-MASHITADVDRAM UJ890AS
4. Realtek Boot Agent
When I clicked to try boot the Realtek Boot Agent an error message came up https://www.dropbox.com/s/1unhqan3mrszmlt/2015-07-19 18.08.14.jpg?dl=0
When I press enter on each of these in the boot menu the tells me the part has failed. Please Help me I would like to fix this issue.
I am planning to buy a new LT but I'm not quiet sure what's the best one. What is good about Toshiba?
Hello, Im using Medion Akoya laptop, win 7 32bit.. The problem started 4-5 months ago when sound just stopped after a few minutes of use, and as time passed sound worked shorter and shorter, a month ago it worked just so I could hear the windows starting sound, and it stopped after a few secs.. Now I cant even hear it.. But when I plug in headphones or other speakers it works.. I tried reinstalling windows, playing with the drivers and sound options in device manager, tried everything I could find on google.. But either its my low understanding of what people say or just a different problem (I never found a post that had the SAME problem as me).. Please help me if u can, I want to sell my laptop and I cant do that like this..
Update : I installed the soundcard drivers that I found for this exact laptop, uninstalled drivers that were installed with windows update, installed the driver I downloaded, system sounds worked properly untill I went to youtube and watched a video for like 30 secs.. then it just stopped like it used to when this problem first showed up..
Also I noticed that when laptop goes to saving mode, or whatever(screen goes black) like a black screen saver, and when I move the mouse a bit to wake it and continue the video, it has sound, but stops after a while again..
I own a netgear dgn1000 modem+router and it is not working properly so I am using a sustitute modem right now and when I tried configuring my netgear modem once again using my laptop there is a problem occuring...
I am using internet through wifi through substitute modem...when I connect netgear modem to my lappy for configuring through 192.168.1.1 the site doesnot open in fact internet does not work and when I remove the lan cable through netgear modem and use wifi on my sustitute modem it works fine
note: inernet is now continuously working through substitute bsnl modem only...the problem occurs only when lan is connected through netgear modem...
Here's a link for the user's guide containing the install instructions - - Did you use the Install Wizard?
Hello let me explain my situation We live in an apartment complex and there are desktops that connect to the router On an evening we were experiencing extreme lag which we determined was due to traffic on the channels We bought a router that can use ghz and also new compatible adaptors Installed it worked just fine on ghz for a day Then the signal took a dump and ping was between and thousands on all pcs Rebooted the router after reading forums and seeing this as a common issue until reboot and it was fine again Signal took a dive again a day later rebooted again This time only of problem with 5ghz Router the pcs were getting the speed and the other one was barely getting any no more than gb s Rebooted that PC was Router problem with 5ghz fine the Router problem with 5ghz other were under gb s Rebooted and they all switched order again Finally got all working again just for a day until the signal took a dump now I cant get more than PC the same one this time every reboot at max speed Switched them onto the ghz works fine Back to ghz nope nothing clinging to connection for its life on of the PCs All are using identicle adapters feet from router no walls and are set up identicle Channel is on auto as is the frequency have tried mhz mhz and a variety of channels Does anyone have any idea Thank you nbsp
Make and model of router? How are you accessing the internet, I.e. cable, FIOS?
So about a few weeks ago (not exactly sure when it started) my computer stopped allowing me to access certain websites. It started out with only a few, but now it is almost 50-80% not connecting. I do not think it is a problem with my browser. I typically use Firefox, but IE will connect to the same ones Firefox allows, and will also not connect to the same websites Firefox will not allow.
I have searched these forums for a couple of hours now and nothing seems to fit my exact problem, and I am hesitant to use the solutions from other forums because it might further hurt my system. I am not tech-savvy/computer literate to say the least, and I would need a thorough walk-through on how to diagnose the problem, as well as how to fix it.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
How are you not allowed to view the website? Does the page show "The page cannot be displayed"? or you are not authorized or something else?
Try running cmd.exe, type "ipconfig /flushdns" without quotes.
Here are my specs Motherboard GIGABYTE G Sniper H CPU Intel Core i - K Devil s Canyon Processor GHz GT s Hard Drive Western Digital Blue WD EZEX Video card SAPPHIRE Vapor-X VXL RAM HyperX FURY GB -Pin DDR SDRAM DDR Desktop Memory Problem video output with Model HX C F x This is sort of a complicated issue I will try my best to guide you through what is happening I started with all of my devices connected including my video card and sound card When the HDMI was connected to the video card the motherboard logo would appear for a split second and disappear to be replaced with a black screen The black screen does not go away and the BIOS menus cannot be accessed I then tried removing the video and sound cards and connecting the HDMI directly to the motherboard Problem with video output The BIOS menu started up and I was able to install my OS and motherboard drivers There are no issues when the computer is RESTARTED but when it is shut down as it needs to be to install the video card sound card there is no video output at all Connecting HDMI to the video card gives the same issue as before I have been able to get video output by using the jumpers although this only works sometimes and I would really prefer not to need to do this every time I start my computer So far I have been able to install my sound hard with this method but the video card is tough Please help nbsp
I should mention that the jumpers I mentioned are used only to reset the BIOS, I apologize for any confusion. Basically, resetting the BIOS allows for video output sometimes.
I have been using my external hard disk(WD My Passport Essential SE) 1 Tb, since last 6 months, but after a recent virus scan, my laptop is not showing the external hard disk, i have tried using My computer, Manage and Disk management.
I am unable to find external hard disk even in Disk management i.e. it is not showing.
So please can anyone help me in this concern......
I would really appreciate and thanks in advance
First, try accessing it from another computer to be sure it can be accessed elsewhere. The Western Digital Passport Essential has had a pretty high failure rate as seen in our shop... so the unavailable external hard disk may not have anything to do with the virus scan may have nothing to do with the problem.
In other cases, I would attempt to reinstall the Passport drive. You do not usually cause any damage to the data on the drive when you do this.
Resolved DNS on other on one problem working laptop, DNS network computers problem on one laptop other computers on network working I returned home for the holidays with my laptop running Windows Enterprise -bit When I connect to the wireless network my laptop reports that it is connected with internet access but there is no browsing capability at all P P works Steam works but Chrome Firefox Steam browser give me DNS problem on one laptop, other computers on network working the quot This webpage is not available quot page telling me that the DNS lookup failed All the other computers at home are working happily My settings were to obtain an IP address and DNS server address automatically nslookup said DNS request timed out It didn t work with the wireless or the wired internet with an ethernet cable I set up another network by using my iPhone as a hotspot to make sure it wasn t an issue with all connections and my computer could browse just fine using the iPhone hotspot But it didn t work with my home connection The first thing I tried was to use openDNS s DNS addresses and with my home connection It still failed and nslookup gave the same quot DNS request timed out quot I reset the modem router it s combined unfortunately to factory settings and tried directly connecting with an ethernet cable again It worked for half a second and I opened webpages before it stopped and gave the DNS errors again I tried the wireless internet and it still didn t work I can connect to the modem router I made a guest network just to try it and I got DNS errors again When I reconnected to my primary network it worked for half a second again then stopped My next attempt to fix it was going to the cmd prompt and typing ipconfig release then ipconfig renew I restarted my computer and tried again but I still received the same errors with P P working like before I turned off my firewall and tried but it still didn t work Then I tried ipconfig registerdns restarted my computer and tried again Still didn t work At this point IPv has been disabled but it s still not working I restarted the modem router multiple times but it does nothing to alleviate the problem I have Microsoft Security Essentials did a scan nothing detected Also tried System Restore to two days ago got an error about how it failed Summary Using openDNS address Turned off IPv ipconfig release ipconfig renew ipconfig registerdns no virus trojan system restore failed None of the above worked Other computers at home using the ISP s provided DNS server work My computer works with other connections but not my home network Is there anything else I can try Thanks in advance nbsp
Using openDNS address.
Turned off IPv6
system restore failed
None of the above worked.
Other computers at home using the ISP's provided DNS server work.
My computer works with other connections, but not my home network.Click to expand...
Good work. The router is fine so don't fuss with it anymore.
Look for an updated driver for your WiFi adaptor.
On any working system run IPCONFIG /ALL and compare it to the results on the failing system. Look for missing Gateway address or IP address like 169.x.y.z
Some concern re failing system restore, but that's not a networking problem per se.
Work on a wired network first and then move to wifi.
Empty all manual settings on the LAN Connection (get properties, scroll to tcp/ip, click property button - - check ALL tabs; delete everything.
You should be able to PING 188.8.131.52 and then PING google-public-dns-a.google.com.
This shows the LAN adaptor has connectivity and DNS resolution.
Now do the very same sequence with your WiFi connection.
Disconnection from the router and then reconnect.
Inspect IPCONFIG /ALL again to look for valid IP addr, gateway addr and valid DNS settings. (not the OpenDNS you had before).
ping 184.108.40.206 ; if this doesn't work, then the WiFi settings are invalid even before DNS is an issue.
How can I get my pendrive to it's previous state just by formatting or anything else.
Do I need to update my drivers after os installation for getting wifi worked ?
How can I get my pendrive to it's previous state just by formatting or anything else.Click to expand...
Not sure I follow you. When you format the USB drive it will be blanked.
Do I need to update my drivers after os installation for getting wifi worked ?Click to expand...
You will need to install the drivers for your Netbook after so the wifi will work, yes.
Until recently my laptop, an Asus Vivobook with an i5-processor, touchscreen and a 500 gig harddisk, worked just fine, no problems whatsoever. But when I started playing GuildWars 2 it developped a nervous 'tick'. Let me explain: of course the battery of my laptop doesn't last forever, so sometimes I have to plug it in while playing GW, and as soon as I do that the screen starts to black out randomly, as bad as sometimes every 3 seconds. It turns itself on again, and there's no loss of performance (at least not a noticeable one). It gets worse: when I stop playing it continues to flicker on and off. I know that it's not a heat problem, at least I don't think so. SpeedFan detects temperatures up to 67 degrees while playing, but that's it, my laptop should be able to handle that.
Can anyone help me?
...ok, here's an addendum to my post: at the moment the screen goes blank every time I plug in the charger, and the core temperature is around 51, 52 degrees, so in my humble opinion it's definitely not a heat issue.
Hey all My new computer is a new graphics with Problem cards quot Medion Akoya P -E quot With art number windows It has an NVIDIA GeForce GT graphic card Problem with new graphics cards Original Psu w My old computer is a quot Emachine EL quot windows vista Original Psu w I have bought a Psu from w to have a pin connector for the GTX ti graphic card When installing this Psu in my EL both graphic cards works fine Now I have brand new graphic Problem with new graphics cards cards NVIDIA GEFORCE GT NVIDIA GEFORCE GTX TI Asus Both cards WORKS on my old Problem with new graphics cards computer Now the problem When installing the new Psu w into my medion computer everything works fine When I remove the graphic card from my new computer and put the or the in it the computer wont start getting long beep and x short beep this means problem with graphics card Now I have retested my graphic cards in my old computer and they both works fine so there is a problem probably something within my computer settings I have searched and searched but couldn t find any solution so thats why I m posting it here I am from Belgium so forgive me for my bad grammar Any suggestion will be tried and I am sure all cables are connected probably when I need to install my GT I don t even need to unplug any cables so thats not the problem nbsp
Wait. So when you put the 630 and 650 in your Medion, it fails?
Ok so I do not know if this is the right forum or site to ask this question to be honest It applies to Linux though more applies to a networking issue So here is the problem I currently live in an apartment that has its own network that is given to them by their ISP So my router is getting its ip address from their DHCP server router and then I give out my own problem Apartment Network IP address via my own router So Im trying to be able to SSH into my machine or even just to remote desktop onto my Windows side I have my router set up accordingly and I can ssh into my machine when I am on their own network not my own but when I am away I cannot because Apartment Network problem my routers IP address is unique in the apartment complexes network Does anyone know a solution to this I was thinking a VPN into their network Apartment Network problem and then SSH into my own afterwords Problem is I m really not sure if this is a solution and if so How do I do it Thank you for your time I hope someone has a solution to my problem nbsp
This is a STATIC route or PORT FORWARD problem and without the consent the apartment owner, neither are possible.
Your data flow is
ISP == Apt.router---Your.router---your.pc
Assume the Apt.router is at address 192.168.1.1
If yours is anything else, then your lan is isolated from the apt and you have great security.
* to get Public access (eg from work) to your pc, you need to
cross the Apt.router nat, get to your.router and port forward to your pc - - complicated.If your.router is on the Apt.lan (meaning you disable DHCP in your router)
you are exposed to all the other apartments,
and still need port forward to your PC, and that requires a FIXED address assignment in the apt.router.
IMO, the conclusion is this is non-trivial, has dependencies on the good will of the apt owner/tech support guy and requires extra diligence on your systems for security & privacy.
This would need (imo) to be more than just 'I want to play games on the Internet'
So, suddenly my internet stopped working (im using lan adapters you put in the socket). I ****ed up I think, I was dicking around and I manually changed the ip, subnetmasker and the default gateway to what my laptop has. I copied the dns server adres too, and I made an adres up for the alternative dns server. This obviously didnt do jack ****
So I changed the properties back to "automatically assign ip adres" and I went into cmd, I typed "ipconfig/all". It now shows NO default gateway, and it shows the ip that I copied from my laptop, the dns servers show: fec0:0:0:ffff: : 1%1
Now, I would realy like some help here, since im not a computer expert (as you probably could tell). Ask me what you need to know!
Anyone? I think a mod moved my thread to "networking", why is it moved from "free tech support" -->software, to networking?
A few months ago I made a minecraft server and it worked perfectly. Today I tried to join with external ip and it didnt work but I could before.Is it something important? Is my server working? Is it the router's problem?
I would appreciate any help as soon as possible
Btw my ip is 220.127.116.11
@ 13:50 PDT I can not ping that IP from Southern Calif.
Ive been having one BIG issue with my computer Ive researched alot and tried alot of things but nothing has worked I think that its the SVCHOST issue but I cant find a great usage CPU problem 100% site video on how to delete it Heres whats been happening also I keep my computer on all the time Its stays nice and cool so I dont need to turn it off 100% CPU usage problem I will a couple times a 100% CPU usage problem month or if im going somewhere it stays off till I get back But this has nothing to do with the problem I think Ok So I turn on my Computer after I restart it because of the CPU Insanely Slow PC I get on my usual sites Facebook NOAA Weather Youtube Mail Etc But it seems it doesnt matter what I do Watch netflix play minecraft or dont even have a browser or game open at all my CPU ALWAYS Spikes to and when it does it stays their And doesnt go away until I shut off my computer and re-start it When I try to install something or upload a video to youtube the hour turns into minutes of the CPU jumping to its like it knows what im trying to do and completely stops it by running CPU to so I cant do anything I dont want to pay for anything to get rid of it I would rather do it manually My CPU percentage Jumps in very high s From to to then to then to it just jumps everywhere at a very high speed Here is something even more messed up My Cpu will be showing those High percentages but when I go to Task manager and look at the processes running theirs only - that are running between - CPU Usage And when I play a game For example start up Flight Simulator it takes Cpu But it jumps from to back and fourth FSX is the ONLY game when after an hour runs just fine Any other game I play freezes Extensively The internet then stops doesnt load Applications start to not respond the only thing I can really get to is the Files of my computer and Task manager Regedit and Run Im running on Windows X Home Premium I have a Intel Pentium dual core E GHz Ive never had any problems with the CPU before And so far after trying to research and fix this problem for a couple days Im about to throw this out my window im so pissed I cant do nothing with lag Help nbsp
So what is the process with most CPU usage, in Task Manager? It's gotta be something.
Apple's decision to include just a single port on its new 12-inch MacBook provoked the ire of many, and perhaps rightfully so. Adapters are the obvious answer for devices lacking a USB Type-C interface but what if you have multiple...
I'll bet Apple is kicking themselves right now for now making this little device themselves.
I feel bad for Apple users though... having to spend extra money to get what should be basic functionality.
So to clear out what my hardware is my core is an intel i LGA For a bit of background - A few months back I encountered this problem that my high temperature with too constantly Problem CPU fan started to malfunction Though a few hours later the fan started to work again I used a flashlight to look into the CPU and yeah it was spinning Both of Problem with CPU temperature constantly too high them at equal rates So onto the actual problem I few days ago I just got my PC fixed since my vid card malfunctioned Fearing it was overheating I downloaded speedfan and now constantly check my GPU temperature However what worries me now is that it constantly reads my CPU temperature to be around - Celsius The frightening thing is it s ALWAYS at that range Even when I just turn my computer on despite it being in air-conditioning the temp is always at that range I also asked the guy who fixed my PC and said that it was a problem but that C is standard for a PC that s been used for hours Since I m kind of lazy to screenshot upload I ll just type out what it reads in Speedfan CoreTemp and CPU Thermometer Speedfan GPU C System C CPU C AUX C SMIOVT - C HD C Core C CoreTemp Tj Max C Core C Min Max Core C Min Max Load varies from - CPU thermometer reads relatively the same with a - C range What the hell is up with my PC and what can I do to solve it nbsp
It could be a miscalculation on the part of the on-die sensors, or a horribly failing cooling system.
I've checked Google for that chip's average temps, and they aren't supposed to be that high.
My CPU isn't a multi-core, so it by default doesn't generate much heat, but it's overclocked enough to make a toast.
Try disabling any 'Quiet fan' features in your mobo's BIOS, and check the temps.
For how long have you had this problem? Only recently, or since Day 1 of the assembly?
Try taking off all the fans and checking them individually. Check whether any fan is malfunctioning. If none is, it could be a case of bad case airflow. Or miscalculated temps.
Still, give me some more details on which programs you mostly run, how much load they give the CPU. I'll abuse Google for more information on your case.
I have a speaker installed in my cpu and it work just fine.
my computer is windows 7.
and my headphone does make sound when I plug it on my computer and work just fine with other device than my computer.
why is it only the right side of the headphone is working while the left side of it only make a static noise?
please help. I've tried everything I could find in youtube and other resource but none of them seems to have the same problem as mine
Have you tried plugging the headphones into something else (radio, mp3 player, another computer) to see if it might just be a problem with the headphones and not the computer?
Hello there, so here is the really weird problem I am having
When I connect pc to pc monitor, it gives black screen (the ms-dos screen were you have the "_" blinking on the left top)
When I connect pc to my TV, it works all good.
Here is the strange part:
When I connect my pc to my TV and it works, if I unplug the cord and connect it back to pc monitor, without shutting down the pc, IT WORKS! ...
graphic card : geforce750, hdmi cable
Any idea what is going on and how to fix it?
Try updating your video card drivers
Actually what happened is I opened my cpu to clean out any dust so I cleaned it and even cleaned under the processor with a dry cloth.but when I tried to turn on the pc when everything was arranged,a black screen with a paragraph of error is shown.turns off the pc automatically.
My motherboard is fine,it shows a green light in the extreme end.
My processor is working great.
Hard disk is also fine.
But still it is not turning onn. Please help.
Did you happen to have disconnected the power cable from the computer and press and hold the power button to discharge any built up static charges before opening and cleaning inside the computer?
You mentioned you cleaned under your processor. Did you pull the processor from the motherboard or was it still attached when cleaning?
Did you re-check ALL wires and connections? Try disconnecting all cables (to motherboard, hard drive, optical drive, video card, etc.) and then re-connecting said cables, making sure they are firmly seated.
Any chance you can take a photo of the error message and post it here?
May I suggest next time do not use a dry cloth, because you can actually build up static charge within the cloth itself and you could have discharged the built up static electricity into (or onto) one of the computer components.
A couple of my DVDs have what appears to be a grey area, out faded spot, and another has squiggly lines all over it, like someone drew squiggles with a pen. None will play. What's caused this & please... Can it be fixed??
I have owned a Canon Pixma Mp750 Muli-functional printer for several years and it has always worked perfectly on my Windows XP PC.
I have purchased a new Windows 7 PC and updated the printer and scanner drivers from the Canon download website. The printer works great, but the scanner won't scan.
I've tried using the MP Navigator, Scangear and the Windows Scan & Fax facility but the process only gets as far as the calibration stage and stops. I eventually get an error code 2,178,0. I have tried to resolve it by changing the USB port, uninstalling the drivers and re-installing them, but the scanner still won't scan.
Any ideas, guys? The Canon support team appear to think it is a Windows error, but I'm not so sure. The drivers all seem to be installed correctly.
I have canon pixma e500. using windows xp 64 bit. the scanner and copy functions are fine but no print. if I connect it with windows 7, everything works super fine.
Hey, I m having a big problem with my router.
I use a wa3002g4 utstarcom router. An year ago everything worked fine.
Now, my pc fails to get an ip adress even though dhcp is enabled. When I manually assign an ip, it connects and I am able to 'ping' as well. But, I still cant connect to router's login page or internet. If I connect using wifi it shows 'Limited or no connectivity'. Please help.
Try a manual reset. There should be a reset button on the router. This will load factory defaults and allow you to start fresh. If this fails, your device is likely bad.
Edit: BTW I am experiencing the same thing to an extent because of bad service. The bad service is somehow creating chaos with my network. The network functions more smoothly with the ISP connection disconnected. You can try disconnecting your ISP cable and check your network settings without ISP first.
My system has starting to slow down and sometimes stop when on the net. Seems to be when waiting for a reply to a request like opening a web site. When opening my email I have to wait for a minute because when the page opens and I start to type the screen go blank and the page will redisplay....any thing that I typed will be gone. System is running on an ethernet cable. More problems seems to be when I back page it will take some time before the page will display. Has at times just hang and will not go back.
Another weird problem is when I try to download Flash Player it will not let it download. Just hangs and does nothing.
These program are more on Chrome than on Firefox. Also when I send it my work timesheet Chrome will not display the reply from my company but Firefox will. AT&T has run several test on the DSL line and said all is OK. Eithernet card problem maybe? I am beginning to think maybe a complete system failure is coming.
BTW...Lap top runs fine on wireless.
Disable all browser extensions and add-ons, quit the browser and relaunch it
HI There is a solution for Pendrive not detecting or usb drive not visible in My computer and device manager Recently I had a problem with Sandisk Cruzer Micro gb pendrive When I inserted the pen drive the system is detecting but it is not visible in Windoes explorer and device manager But it is working in other computers So it is not damaged or virus problem Solution for not visible pendrive infected If you Open Disk management there you will find your pendrive without any drive letter Here the problem is not with the pendrive it is with the system To resolve this Solution for pendrive not visible problem I tried in many ways and installed driver detecting softwares but there is no use Finally I succeeded in the following method The problem occured because unexpectedly the drive was un-mounted To solve you should have Administrator privilages on your local system Later go to Local security policy select Local policies in that select Audit policy and select Audit object access and check Success and apply From RUN type diskpart and right click on it and select Run as Administrator At the DISKPART prompt type automount press enter next type recover press enter next type rescan press enter and exit In Device manager under storage devices find your device not recognized and uninstall it Unplug the device and plug it again then the driver automatically installs and it is mounted to your computer You will get the autoplay window Thats it Solution for pendrive not visible problem nbsp
This is the only and unique one that was worked!!!n awsome!!
how did u found it???
Hello, I used to be a member here a long time ago, but I forgot my old e-mail so I had to create a new account. Here's my story/question....
In April 2013, I bought a PC (Intel Core i7-3770) that came with a GeForce GTX 650 2 GB and used it for 2 years with no problem, until I decided to get a new GPU. I purchased the GeForce GTX 970 SC 4 GB and every so often my PC would restart only in-game. I changed my settings to not automatically restart on error and to write minidump files but my PC never does, it just reboots in game. I monitored my temps and my card never overheated and my PC was cool all the time. I've put the 650 back in for now and no problems so far. Is the 970 I bought too much for this power supply or motherboard? Should I exchange it for an 800 series? any help would be appreciated
mobo: Gigabyte GA-B75M-HD3
psu: Azza Alpha 500watt
Yes, the problem is probably with the power supply and there is no 800 series. You should probably look at replacing the power supply. That's a $30 power supply and from the reviews I've read people seem to agree that you get what you paid for.
I bought a R9 270X by XFX. My current specs are:
CPU: AMD A10 7800k (Standard Clock Speeds, Graphics Disabled)
RAM: 4GB (2 sticks, both working)
Motherboard: FM2, Gigabyte
PSU: 500 watt 80+ Cert Silver
HDD: 500GB WD Blue
So the issue is that the R9 card consistenly crashes out of all games no matter if I uninstall the drivers or reinstall them. I have tried removing the drivers through catalyst control center and through application based tools (DisplayDriverUninstaller). Once I uninstall and reinstall, it works, until the computer is restarted and then rinse and repeat.
Is this the card saying it is dying? If so it is a weird way of graphics card dying.
Hi forum I have changed my power supply because my ex power supply involved in the problem specs was Watt Watt Real model GP B Green with that before it crash down my system was boot up correctly after I hit the Power On button on top of my chassis since a few days ago that I ve bought a new PSU with this spec Green Watt Real OC edition model GP B GOLD plus Gold now the problem is every time I want to turn on my PC first it doesn t boot up but it s powered on and all hardware are in correct position and nothing s weird just actually do nothing until I push or times Reset button or Power button from chassis and then after a while when it re-started again everything goes well and system will boot up perfectly note - new results and experience I decided to have had some tests so I told by myself let s check the computer when it s powered off recently and I did uninterrupted turn it back ON again so it worked I tried several times to power On and power Off shutting down from windows and it worked so I get that when my machine is powered off for half an hour or maybe several hours then it should be handle after my problem PSU changing Weird this problem Weird problem after changing my PSU which I mention and This test was a huge leap in my opinion pluralization - I m thinking maybe it refers to my new and fresh PSU maybe it has a new system delay interrupt or maybe optional Weird problem after changing my PSU setting that can help through this - maybe the problem is related to the cables I m not sure because I double checked the cables and all connections before - if problem is related to the Capacitors so in this case Capacitors are usually swollen but there is no sign of this condition I also double checked Capacitors for assurance - especially this PSU is the best kind of high power supplies and it s new no sign of ripple noise or any suspicious signs of its internal hardware - so we can say no MOBO suspicious no PSU suspicious no Graphics suspicious anything but only RAM at this point we can say maybe problem is refers to the RAM modules because I haven t test it yet and I hope it is nothing to worry - according to recent test we can assuming there should be a common setting or case that helping us through this because if there was a problem with any kind of hardware then why when I test it repeatedly ON OFF uninterrupted there was no sign of a problem and one more thing remember not to there is no sign or overheating of any kind of my hardware too I m always aware about this any help will appreciate in advance Thanks System Specs OS - Win Enterprise x CPU - i Video - GTX Mobo - Asus P X D Premium x chip RAM - GB Corsair XMP x GB MHz nbsp
Any suggestion ? HELLOOOO?anybody's home?game time..
PC Specs CPU AMD Phenom II x T GHz Stock cooler NOT Overclocked MB ASUS M A GPU Radeon HD GB GDDR RAM GB DDR HyperX MHz running at OS Windows Ultimate -bit Hello So these last couple of days I ve been struggling to fix my CPU Overheating problem The first time I noticed this problem was when I was watching a Twitch stream using Google Chrome and I had a few other tabs opened gag YouTube Facebook and all of a sudden I got BSOD the dump process went up to and then the whole PC just froze so I had to manually restart it Upon booting I got a message saying quot CPU Temperature too high please enter setup quot CPU problem Overheating So I did and I saw that the temperature was around degrees celsius I turned off my PC and waited a while turned it on and this time it booted normally and when I checked the temp using HWMonitor it was sitting around - degrees idle with cpu usage at - which I think is weird btw my room is CPU Overheating problem cold since I only turn on the heating when it get s below outside The BSOD happened more times of which twice when I was playing a game quot Grey Goo quot I used an ingame cpu temp monitor and noticed that the temperature went from to degrees in minutes of playing p s CPU Overheating problem I had a svchost exe virus located in Windows Temp folder which according to VirusTotal was a BitCoin miner It was starting with windows and using around of my CPU but now I have it quarantined with Malwerbytes Premium Things I ve tried so far Cleaning the PC from dust Replacing thermal paste Changing the Minimum processor state to it was set to by Razer Cortex Power Plan Using SpeedFan to run the CPU fan at - RPM Scanning and cleaning the PC with Malwerbytes ComboFix RogueKiller ADWCleaner Avast Home Edition Spybot Search amp Destroy Things I haven t tried Installing a fresh copy of windows Hopefully things that you guys will advise me to do Sorry for writing a new Harry Potter book but I wanted to include as many details as I can Cheers nbsp
Just a question about thermal paste and fans:
How many fans in your case? 3 ? 4 ? (Not counting Video Card fans) 1CPU, 2 Case?
Also how big are the case fans, and are they turned up ? Do any of the fans make noise? (Could not be performing at maximum rates)
for your CPU fan is it also running optimally(no noise, fully cleaned out, not bent)?
What brand is the thermal paste that you bought ?? and how did you apply it? an even thin layer enough to cover the chip fully but not too much so that it's overflowing on it?
Edit: Also forgot to ask, have you checked the Motherboard Chips to see if they are overheating? I've seen that a lot but you said that your temp. monitor programs say it is for sure the CPU so.
Hi, I have a Toshiba Satellite Pro C660 with a blank screen. The laptop starts up and goes through its boot cycle fine, but nothing is displayed on the screen.
I've read through tons of forums, but nothing seems to work.
I did the whole removal of battery, power supply and holding the power button for 60 secs... still blank...
When plugging in an external monitor it works perfectly fine, so this eliminates any issues with the CPU / GPU / RAM / HDD, etc.
I re-installed windows 7, which would hopefully eliminate any software issues.
Next logical step was to check the LCD backlight, inverter and ribbon cable... So I replaced the screen, but still blank screen. Just as a side note, the backlight lights up with both old and new display, but no picture.
This leaves me to think that it might be something in the BIOS?
Any suggestions / ideas?
Hi there! I'm using HP presario c700 . During few days I'm going to see display is not working properly. I mean I can't see anything without sound, It's display is going to show a black shadow with some scratchs.
Please anyone say something, what should I do?
Hi there, have you tried hooking up to an external monitor? This will help you determine if it's a problem with the screen or logic board.
Hi there I ve recently bought a second hand laptop because it was cheap and seemed to only have a minor problem which I hope to be able to fix So far problem TK Easynote boot Bell Packard I ve not been able to so I thought I d ask here for Packard Bell Easynote TK boot problem some help Specs Packard Bell Easynote TK CPU AMD Phenom II X N GHz Videochip AMD Radeon HD M GB VRAM RAM GB DDR orginal OS Windows Home Premium So the problem is that if I try to boot it Packard Bell Easynote TK boot problem about times it starts up I can hear the fan and HDD starting and see the lights turn on Then after a couple of seconds before seeing anything on screen I hear the fan stopping while the lights remain on The times it boots up properly and everything works What I ve Packard Bell Easynote TK boot problem done so far remove battery and power adapter reinstall RAM both at once and one by one hold down power button for a minute and try again with the power adapter connected This doesn t appear to do anything much I haven t removed the CMOS battery yet because it s embedded in a peculiar way and I m not familiar with how to remove it yet Then during one of the few sessions where I was able to boot successfully I installed the newest BIOS-version from the Packard Bell site This also didn t do anything Then since I wanted to do it anyway I started with the installation of Arch Linux where so far I ve only wiped the entire HDD and repartitioned it then I was too busy and couldn t complete it This doesn t matter much as long as I can get into the BIOS properly I ll be fine I m a Linux newbie but have successfully installed Arch Linux on a very old laptop So what I wanted to ask do you know any way to make the startup work everytime Do you have any ideas what it might be My theories so far - It s probably a hardware related problem since it still occurred after BIOS-update and full HDD-wipe without OS - broken powerbutton connection somehow -- gt replace powerbutton - broken fan overheating -- gt shutdown - broken fan cable sometimes does connect correctly I m curious if you have any theories on how to save the laptop Kind regards Ilja nbsp
The laptop may need its thermal pads or paste replaced. The motherboard may be detecting a false over-heating signal...
Hello guys gt Nvidia problem 240 I ve just registred Nvidia gt 240 problem to this forum I hope there is somebody who can help me Nvidia gt 240 problem So the Nvidia gt 240 problem problem is with my Nvidia graphic card gt as you can see in the thread title I must say that I have sent emails to nvidia support ofc no answer I have tried to post threads at their forums but every time thread DISAPPEARED Also I ve tried to send PM to forum staff and guess what No answer nothing Im just so pissed that company like Nvidia doenst give a crap I must mention that I ve tried to look for solutions on web but the only advice was to take sledgehammer and to smash card into milion pieces System Windows Ultimate b I will try to give you guys most informations I can Here are couple of screenshots so you can see whats going on screenshots taken with Lightshot so feel free to click on the links http prntscr com rxtmz http prntscr com rxu j At second screenshot you can see that image on desktop is fine For some reson image becomes ok as soon as I turn off Desktop Windows Manager in Task Manager menu Why I have no clue I ve tried - different drivers same crap Tried reinstalling system - same crap Please help me I would be very grateful nbsp
U are giving u'r self the answer. That card is old and needs to be replaced.
I recently just built a gaming PC with my friend I have installed all of the drivers for the GPU from the installation disk it came displays dark. Build. glitches goes then New problem? Monitor GPU with Windows has been updated fully also besides three updates that continue to fail They are just security updates they may or may not be the problem The PC runs fine and the display will show New Build. Monitor displays glitches then goes dark. GPU problem? clear and crisp for about half an hour until New Build. Monitor displays glitches then goes dark. GPU problem? glitches will start to appear in the screen and next the monitor will appear black The light is still on and the PC is still running whatever it was last I know this because it did it during a driver installation and after I waited an hour and then restarted the PC the driver install was done Often after I restart the PC nothing will show up at all If I wait awhile and get lucky it will boot up normal The glitches happen most often when I try to run a game The mentioned updates continue to fail and idk why I have ran a troubleshoot for the PC as well and the it says no driver can be found for the PCI Simple Communications Controller After I choose to search for the driver online or on my computer it says no driver found During a Windows Update failure I got another error message concerning my graphics driver saying a problem could ve occurred because a graphics driver is missing Yet the program GPU Tweak that was installed with the disk says that everything s up-to-date When I try to update manually it says the sam thing This computer was not expensive I can post exact specs when I can get back into it and maybe some pics Specs Not listed is a terabyte of memory blu-ray burner and and an msi Z -G Gaming motherboard I have a strong internet connection and am using a DVI port for the monitor I have ruled out the monitor as the problem Before I said the PC was NOT expensive I meant NOT cheap I spent around on the parts nbsp
Looking at the screen shot of GPU-Z it appears you are running a AMD Catalyst 13.8 BETA drivers. I would suggest downloading the latest drivers from AMD: AMD Catalyst Omega Drivers 14.12. Then go into your control panel and completely uninstall the amd catalyst from your computer. Once completed, you may need to reboot the computer. After reboot, install the newest drivers from the link I posted above. Do so and then try again to produce same error results. Let us know if it works or not so we can try other options, or resolve the issue.
Okay, this is very weird. when I connect to my wifi on my laptop the internet doesnt work. It says connected and everything. it says it has internet access. It just doesnt work. But if I connect my phone to the wifi and use USB tethering to my laptop it works. :/ Help please.
Hey RenRoo.Have you tried a another browser? Does the wired connection to the router work? If yes, I would go into Device Manager, and click the + sign next to Network Adapters.Right click on the wireless adapter and select uninstall.Exit, reboot the system, allow the system to "find" the wireless adapter, then check and see if it will connect. If you still have the same problem, connect via your phone and in Device Manager, try to update the driver.
I came home one day to find that my monitor was no longer displaying my PC via HDMI. After a lot of testing, I've found that the monitor works with other PCs via HDMI, and my PC works with other monitors via HDMI, but they don't work together. All I get is a black screen. I know that my PC's resolution is set to one that my monitor can display. I've tried several different cables. I have absolutely no idea what the issue might be, and I'm pretty much at my wit's end here. Any ideas?
Have you tried different projection modes? Windows will remember set profiles for specific monitors. It is possible the the projection mode was turned off for the monitor, and will stay that way until the mode is changed.
For Windows 7 press "Windows Key + P" to bring up the projection menu.
For quite some time now I have been having this problem where I can hear other people but they cannot hear me, the only thing they hear from me is my computer. So for example if I am on youtube watching a video, they would be able to hear what video I am watching, while at the same time they can't hear me at all when I talk. I have tried Microsoft sound recorder to see if that could here me, but still no luck. I then tried a video while using Microsoft sound recorder and it recorded that.
I have tried uninstalling all of my audio drivers and changing setting as what people suggest but still no luck.
I have never had luck in figuring out what the problem is so I have just used Skype on my phone but it has gotten to a point where that is just a hassle and very inconvenient.
Any help is appreciated!
Hello Yesterday I got a virus on an Acer Extensa laptop Said virus was turning on a fake antivirus whenever I opened a file which wanted me to pay a price for a quot cleanup quot I wasn t able to Acer Extensa 5235 booting problem turn anything on Luckily I managed to turn it off through msconfig and delete the virus files Right now however the laptop won t even turn on The Acer Extensa 5235 problem booting quot Acer quot screen goes on the flickers a few times in the upper left corner and the laptop resets I won t even get to a safe mode The notebook had minimal differences from the factory preset had Win Acer Extensa 5235 problem booting and worked until yesterday I have a OEM Win XP home CD at my disposal at the moment I have already tried Booting through BartPe and an iso image of Windows XP on an USB flashdisk To no avail I get to the BartPe layout but the BartPe file explorer shows no disks available Boot through the disk itself At first it didn t load with the error quot STOP X B xf d Xc X X quot which I was able to circumvent by transferring from a SCSI mode to IDE mode in BIOS When I installed Win XP however I had an error concerning a few uncopiable files described for example here - http forums penny-arcade com discussion cant-install-xp-from-any-disk-to-any-disk I skipped everything and the PC now resides in a quot minimal quot Win Xp preset With the former Win configuration of course absent I think I d be able to fix this if I found the MSCONFIG settings for the Windows I used before and which I mistakenly modified I probably turned off something that now blocks the system from starting Is it possible to do so through the new Windows Xp installation The former Win folder is untouched Win Xp runs from another folder Thank you very much for all help nbsp
I had to look up BartPE to see what it was but I think it's unlikely to save the day in your situation.
Assuming that your priority is to get Windows 7 back I'd first check that you have the Microsoft authorisation code for your copy. If it was pre-installed on the laptop there will be a hidden restore partition and you could try holding down the Alt key while tapping F10 to access it. Failing that option I'd download a Windows 7 SP1 ISO, burn it to disc, reinstall the OS and hope that there are no serious driver problems. Both options mean that everything you have installed and saved will be lost unless you have already made backups.
I have an ECS mobo with 1 GB RAM. I'm going to add another 1 GB RAM. The current RAM is Kingston and another is Apacer. When adding the Apacer into RAM slot of the mobo, the computer doesn't show anything. I replaced the Kingston's slot with the Apacer but again the PC doesn't come up and doesn't show anything.
What is the problem please?
What is the specific model of the motherboard?
Hello,someone pls help me...I custom build my pc system specs are: mb asrock z97m anniversary,ram hyperx fury ddr3 1866mhz,cpu intel i5 4690k,psu chieftec navitas gmp 1000c-1000w....all parts are new just buy from store...and gigabyte gtx 690 used(think its culprit) and all is working on windows 8 x64 nvidia driver 344.75 whql!!!Now to probles....system boots fine,log in account(random system crash with black screen,can get back only with hard reset) windows works fine,can using net,watch youtube,listen to music....but when try to run some game,than immediate black screen crash with no error report,try furmark....the same crash after 1-5sec furmark render,cant even open geforce expeience...immediate crash!!!What a problem?Swap 690 with 680....everything works fine!igpu works fine!Try windows 7 x64....the same,but few times see error code 7 something about opengl and driver stop responding....but in windows 7 I can run furmark only on windowed 640x320!!PLS HELP ME!!!!
I ran out of USB ports, so I went in for a powered USB hub.
One by one, all the USB ports went out of action, and then windows (XP) would not boot normally.
That was quite a scare.
I detached all devices attached to the USB ports and ran Device Cleaner (thanks to Lookin)
The PC began to boot normally, and all but one USB came alive.
I am playing around with Server 2012. If I want to have a laptop configured for "at office use" with option to go on site, what would be the best way to do that in order to retain access to shared locations on server that is "at office"?
Should I create a standard windows account unrelated to my domain controller, and have them VPN regardless if they are in office or on site? Or is there a way to have a laptop configured for domain use, where it will still be functional (local computer use) on site outside of the office, even without internet connection (I know you can's VPN without it).
Well this is kind of interesting. You can in fact use a domain laptop away from the local network as long as you have logged into int once on the domain so it can cache your password for future log ins. Now comes to the more difficult part of your question's. Accessing files remotely while not online, you can set up what is called offline files. Offline files will give you acess to your files away from domain network. So if you choose to do offline files any changes made to the file while away from the domain controller where you shares are set up will have to be synced once back on the domain network. So if you make changes to lets say docA while off domain network, once you get back to domain network you will have to sync offline files to the server to update any changes you have made. This set up would not require offsite network but can bring problems when syncing once you reconnect on domain. But now lets say you have the same shares and now you have multiple individials with the same access to the shares. Say you make changes to docA and the other person makes changes to docA while offiste. Once you both reconnect and sync to server you could have issues with data such as duplicate information or doc merging. VPN would be the best option for sure....
My usb mouse is connected, it's led is on, but it's not moving the cursor at all.
I tried unplugging and plugging it in every usb port I have but still not working.
Strangely keyboard 100% works and usb drive works too
I tried another mice that's 100% working on my other computers and they all won't work.
What should I do?
I would have a look in 'Device Manager' at the line 'Mice and other pointing devices'
Click the small arrow to the left of that line, to get the next line to show, below it.
Right click on that, and choose either 'update driver' or 'Uninstall' and then reboot your pc, with the mouse connected, and Windows should install the driver for it again.
I'm assuming this is a Microsoft mouse, if another type it might need it's own driver which should have been supplied with it, but it would be very unusual not to work in Windows at all, whatever the maker.
I have problem with my LG Flatron L246WH monitor..
This is actually problem
Capacitors seems to be ok Pic 1 Pic 2
I bought a ADSL Modem D-Link 2730U
We are connecting to the Modem via Laptop, PC, Phone,... at the same time.
I want to know how can I monitor network(Receive/Send) for each user who connected to the Modem.
Can I do such thing?
if anyone can help ill be really thankful.
pc 1, 2 runnging win7 ultimate x64
1 adsl modem, 1 tp-link router, 2 computers (pc1, pc2).
ADSL(modem) - LAN1 - PC1 , LAN2 - Tp-link
Tp-link - LAN1 - PC2, WAN - ADSL(modem)
Everything is working, but computers cant see each other in HomeGroup.
Tried various methods but nothing work.
So my question is how to set HomeGroup for those 2 computers. Any suggestions?
@Moirax . I can't answer your question, but your mention of Homegroup makes me ask what is it for? To avoid hijacking this thread,I'll PM you.
I pair my Plantronics Calisto PLT Headset to my Desktop Computer (Windows 7 x64), and it showed that everything is OK, but when I tried to use it, it didn't work.
When I press icon of sound on the taskbar and I go to Playback or Recording there is there Bluetooth Hands-free Audio but is Disconnected, and I don't have any idea how to connect this and make to work.
Can someone help me to solve this problem? I will really appreciate any help.
I did everything like supposed to be. I attached few images to show my situation.
Yesterday I bought USB BT400 Adapter.
I started everything from beginning and there is exactly the same situation. Nothing changed. If you look to the picture, everything is pair and installed and when I ask them, they said that was something wrong with Windows configuration (not 100%).
Point is that they didn't have any clue what is wrong.
I didn't mention that before when I installed USB Bluetooth Adapter, and I pair my device in the Playback and Recording devices when I tried to connect it worked for very short time and after this somehow disconnected by itself.
I don't know if I explain well what's happened, but if you want to ask something to make clear, please don't hesitate.
Hi. New guy here. I'm an oldtimer...cut my teeth on tubes and ended up as a 2-way radio and power plant tech. Retired at that point and didn't keep up much with the digital age. I have a compaq fp5315 computer monitor with an audio problem....either lots of noise when volume is normal, or at times no noise, but very low volume. Can't find any scematics and don't want to tear it apart until I know a little more about where to look. Is the audio board in the monitor or in the computer tower? The connecting cord checks ok and the usual plug-wiggling doesn't make any difference. If the audio board is in the tower, is the audio coming from the tower a normal low-impedance speaker feed or like a 600 ohm? Don't think it's just a simple speaker problembecause it has two speakers and both sound the same and the odds are that both wouldn't be bad.
I have just bought new ram to try and speed up my machine but when I put it in and rebooted I got a long beep followed by two short beep, then it continues to beep twice
Looked this up and it says it's a problem with the first 64k or Ram so I gave up, took the new RAM out and rebooted with exactly the same setup I had originally. Still get the beeps and the machine won't startup! It's exactly as it was before I put the new RAM in but no joy!
Help! I don't know what I should do
The motherboard is H-AIRA-RS780L-uATX
It has two slots
Original RAM is 2gb pc3 10600U
New RAM (now not in the machine) was 2gb 10600u
Try clearing the cmos. Plus make sure when you install the original ram . It clicks in place. Hope this helps you out.
My machine is running XP professional. My problem is about the CD/DVD drive. In normal state, when it's empty, it can be opened and closed just as normal. But for most of the CDes or DVDes, one problem will occur.
The problem is, first that CD or DVD will not be read/recognized. Then the CD/DVD drive is no longer available in my computer window like that is not recognized as well. And also in deice manage's list, there isn't any CD/DVD drive item!
In those situations, every time I need to restart the PC one or several times and try to eject the cd drive and put out that CD/DVD and start the machine again. Then the CD drive will return again!
How to fix that problem please?
Hi, It could be the DVD's firmware is out of date or corrupted in some way (unlikely though.)
If the DVD drive shows in 'Device manager' at first boot, with no disc in, try uninstalling it (right click on the drive) then reboot the pc, it should re-discover it.
Also remove both the power plug and the data plug from the back of the DVD drive and plug them back in again just to remake the connections.
Might be worth checking the connections from the ribbons to the motherboard as well.
I have a very strange problem with my sound card and Here is the details ....
My sound Card was working well the day before ...I was just recording from line in and running the audio recorded from line in and no problems occurred ...
Next Day I found that there is no sound and the speaker and the line in and microphone all not working and showing that they were "Not Plugged In"
I tried to reinstall the driver and I even tried to reinstall the windows But this was useless . I also installed the new driver but didn't work
the sound manager showing that they are working fine but ther are not plugged in
and the weird thing is that the optical port "which is part of the sound card " is working fine this means that the sound card isn't faulty or burnt out ??
this is the picture
please Help me .........
thanks in advance
Is it that you have selected Digital Audio (S/PDIF) as 'default'. so the speakers cannot be, at the same time.
Right click on 'Speakers' icon, is there an 'Enable' option?
I just got a gigabyte R7 260 in the mail changed my psu to a 500 watt and turned on my computer everything looks good I ran the cd to install the drives and it crashes every time when installing. So I go to device manager to try to update drives it says they are up to date , but there is a problem with it and it isn't using resources, weird thing is my on board graphics say the same thing now.So do I need to disable 1 or ? .I have never had problems installing a card before.I ran a dxdiag it shows no graphics at all, but that now I'm running 32 bit weird . thx for the help
What is says on both =Windows cannot verify the digital signature for the drivers required for this device. A recent hardware or software change might have installed a file that is signed incorrectly or damaged, or that might be malicious software from an unknown source. (Code 52) I don't know how to change this
I sent it back if the next 1 does it. Then I'll try to fix it.
Hello My old and faithful Lite-on HW1673s cd/dvd writer tells me to "insert blank disc" It used to be occaisionally and I simply put in a different disc but now its all the time regardless of disc quality or type. If it is goosed can anybody tell me a generic replacement or can I just get any one that sounds good on Amazon? Alan
All one has to do to replace cd/dvd writer is unplug the old one and plug the new one in it should not matter the brand or anything and unless u are using Windows 98 u shoud not need any software.
I'm trying to connect 3 monitors to my Sapphire HD 7770 OC edition which has 2 mini DP ports,1 HDMI and 1 DVI port. So I have 2 adapters mini DP to DVI (the 10$ ones from amazon) and I have a Sapphire HDMI to DVI adapter(maybe I could use that in some combination). So I connect 2 monitors via DVI cables into the DP adapters, and one monitor into the DVI output of the card via VGA cable with a VGA/DVI adapter. And I cannot duplicate the 3rd monitor in catalyst. So it recognize 3 monitors but I cannot duplicate the 3rd, only 2 monitors are working in the same time and I can chose which ones...So should I get a new monitor with a DVI output, or buy new active adapters becouse I think the ones I have aren't active. In this case can I buy just one or do I have to buy 2 ? Or can I buy 1 active DP and then use the HDMI to DVI adapter ? I hope someone can help me.
That card should support up to 4 displays, so perhaps the non-active adaptors are the problem.
Maybe someone else with more experience here can confirm.
I bought a new Tenda Adsl2 Router
when I connect it to My pc or laptop it shows error
"Limited or no Connectivity"
I repair it by windows but still same problem.
I can't access 192.168.1.1
please help me to connect
Is that a wired connection? Try this before attempting WiFi . . .
I am now working on a ASUS G jh I ll describe the problem from when I first acquired the laptop The laptop started up with a blue BIOS background eventually the OS started Very lightly and blue tinted After playing around I discovered that the problem was intermittent when changing the elevation of the LCD lid I ordered NEW LCD Video Cable For Asus G G JH G JW G J G SW SERIES - Q ASA http www ebay com itm trksid p m l amp ssPageName STRK MEBIDX IT thinking this would fix the problem It did not Since then I have tried one different LCD panel and get the same results Now the problem is no longer blue It s just dark very very dark I can see that it still sends the image to the screen but it looks at if it s Asus G73jh problem screen the older LCD panels with the backlight disabled I know that this does not have a backlight or inverter though I have reinstalled Windows reinstalled the drivers reinstalled CCC still having issues maybe this is related AMD Catalyst fails to load properly The error message is quot Catalyst Control Centre Command Line Interface has stopped working quot It seems maybe there is something wrong with the graphics processor but I currently have a monitor connected through VGA and have also tested the HDMI output and both work fine I have been using and testing this system Asus G73jh screen problem with the external monitor since I have disassembled the laptop to replace the LCD LED cable I no longer have the old cable Anyone with any tips I would really like to figure this out if not for a working laptop for the curiousity of knowing what caused the problem Please help I will appreciate it very much nbsp
Is the display panel an LCD or LED type? Many LCD laptops can be converted to LED by using a simple flat cable adapter...
Hey there, this might sound crazy. But as I was partitioning my micro sd card. I decided to remove the partition. And when I did that. It is now undetectable by my laptop or any laptop for thaf matter but I formatted the card on my phone, and it works for my phone. But not my laptop. I am trying to partition the sd card because I am using it to store files from my internal rooted phones memory to the sd card internals. I really need help badly! Is there any way you can help?
Can you change the processor from amd fx 6100 to amd fx 8350 black edition I bought it like this a couple weeks ago and the 6100 seems laggy doing heavy games and misc task should I try that or try over clocking it ?
the graphics does just fine to me between 40fps to 70fps maxx.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
HERE ARE THE SPECS
Windows 7 Professional 64-bit SP1
Zambezi 32nm Technology
4.00GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 666MHz (9-9-9-24)
ECS A960M-MV (CPU 1)
STD HDMI TV ([email protected])
2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GT 610 (PNY)
465GB TOSHIBA DT01ACA050 ATA Device (SATA)
HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GH24NSB0 ATA Device
NVIDIA High Definition Audio
I bought it like this a couple weeks ago and the 6100 seems laggy doing heavy games
2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GT 610 (PNY)Click to expand...
There is no wonder your gaming is laggy with a GT 610. GT 610 is not a gaming card. For gaming get yourself a 650 or better. I personally have a GTX 660. With a better graphics adapter you should be fine with the FX-6100. Make sure your power supply will support a better graphics adapter as well.
Hi , my wifi dosent open facebook or browser but it can open watsapp , viber ..... etc and when I connect my pc to it torrent work fine and download but dosent open any page on browser so please help
Are you sure FB isn't blocked in Egypt (I see that you are from there via your profile)? That could be the issue.
I recently bought a external hard disk of WD (My Passport Ultra) 1TB. It was working fine untill now. Now there is a problem going on. I have used only 656GB of space but it now show that I have only 4GB of storage left. Earlier it was showing 257 GB of space left from 913GB but now it shows the above. I can't understand what is the problem. If anybody could guide me it would an immense help. Thank you.
[email address removed]
Maybe @jobeard could help here. What OS are you running? OS X or Windows?
I would like to seek help regarding my laptop (Dell Inspiron 3437). I oftenly encounter a very slow start up/booting and also there are times that shutting it down takes too long also as if it is not responding, which will result to forced shutting it. I need help in this.
Thanks you very much.
Which Windows and how much free space do you have?
Hi guys and girls I ve got an odd problem and am unsure as to how I should progress it Basically An me (For it odd is) problem I ve added an Arctic Cooling system to my CPU because the original cooler was a bit on the noisy side having read many product reviews I picked the Freezer Pro Rev It s fitted and running to a point When the fan is plugged into the CPU fan header I get a weird beep sequence and my system fails to start so as an experiment I An odd problem (For me it is) plugged the new fan into my fan controller and only connected the original fan electrically thus powering both I ve got a temp sensor for the An odd problem (For me it is) controller anchored at the Freezer Pro s base as close to the CPU as possible so I can run the fan on auto In this configuration I get no beeps and everything runs as normal I did notice when the Freezer Pro arrived that it s connector was wired differently to the original so looking at the connector with the lugs uppermost as it plugs onto the header it s wired Black Red Blue and Yellow reading from left to right the Blue and Yellow were originally the other way around but figured that it was assembled wrong so swapped then about to match the original cooler fan connector I ve looked up the beep code I get but again it s not really clear what s wrong it s basically a double beep pause then beeps but only when the Freezer Pro fan is plugged into the mobo header other than the swap of the Freezer Pro plug pins I ve done little apart from run it with the above set up and I m a little puzzled it looks like the Freezer Pro fan is causing it but the fan runs with no issues when connected to either the mobo or fan controller headers I d rather not have to buy a new cooler before at least asking for anyone s thoughts or suggestions I m running my system at factory settings so no overclocking done yet I do know the BIOS is years out of date but the info I have suggests I don t need to update it I do know my system isn t overheating but I had planned on over clocking it in the future this little snag has put that plan on hold for the time being I don t really stress my system just play games and such but this bug is annoying me System details MOBO - ASUS m a t V evo USB CPU - AMD Phenom II X T Graphics Card - Nvidia GeForce GTX Ti Memory - GB Kingston DDR Main HDD - WD GB rpm quot SATA Secondary - WD Caviar Black TB HDD rpm SATA Back up drive - Seagate ST AS GB USB CD DVD - Optiarc AD- S SATA Fan Controller - NZXT Sentry Touch Screen in middle bay Case - Cooler Master HAF X Full Tower PSU - Corsair TX I ve got a couple of extra USB cards but taking them out made no difference to the problem External Peripherals Razer DeathAdder usb mouse not wireless Deskjet D printer Toshiba Regza quot TV monitor Crappy rd party USB webcam Bamboo graphics Tablet and pen USB TP-LINK USB Wireless modem Creative headset can t find model number nbsp
Okay, a quick update. I think I've fixed the Freezer Pro problem, seems in my desire to get it working I made a mistake in changing the way it's mobo connector was wired. I returned it to the original wiring configuration, plugged it into the header and hey presto......no beeps and it's up and running, no more issues......it's currently running at about 1400 rpm, nice and quiet, CPU temp is about 43 degrees C, updated the BIOS to it's latest version while I was at it. So far it's been ticking over at about that speed for a few hours now so I reckon it's fixed.
Thanks to all those who had a look at my fault, next time I'll be a bit more patient and try not to make such a basic error
I have joined a computer (PC1) to a domain control server (2008), and user able to login using their domain user account - although recently I have found out that even though the computer (PC1) do not connect to a server, user still able to access using their domain account.
Is there a way for me to restrict domain account user from accessing the computer (PC1) if they are disconnected from server?
Hope my explanation make sense to you guyz.
Thank in advance
Lots to be considered. Joining a domain is intended to give the company admin configuration control of all the company users.
This is normal, expected and even proper for the company to do this.
restrict domain account userClick to expand...
hmm; only the company admin should be able to do this and almost always it is done using some scripts, NOT by loggin into your PC. So - - who is accessing your PC remotely, the admin - - how do you know this occurs?
PCs joined to a domain usually get a replacement for PC Login - - the network form and that creates a link to the domain controller.
The video is 1 min and 14 sec, yet only the couple first seconds is enough to understand the problem. what could be the problem for?
as you can see, half of the screen display colors correctly, the other half, the colors and texts and smudged, they are there but smudged and not applicable to read or view
Can you still RMA it, or did you do something that is not covered by the warranty?
I recently upgraded my PC to this configuration:
Processor: AMD FX-8320
Motherboard: ASUS M5A97 R2.0
Video Card: ATI RADEON HD 5770
RAM: Kingston HyperX 2 x 4 GB DDR3 1600 MHz
Hard Disk: Western Digital 1TB Blue SATA3
PSU: Thermaltake 530W SMART SERIES
My CPU temperature is extremely high.
When I'm not doing anything it's around 40 celsius, but I recently played Battlefield 3 and COD Ghosts and it shut down. The temperature was about 95 celsius.
What is happening to my CPU?
Are you using the stock cooler? I have the same CPU and ended up replacing the stock cooler because of bad temperatures. How is the rest of your system's cooling situation? The highest recommended temperature that CPU is rated for is 62C for the processor and 72C for the AM3+ socket.
I have a HP 650 notebook that is in ok condition with Windows 8 OS. It uses a Ralink 3290 wireless adapter for my wi-fi needs. For the past three months, my adapter has been vanishing! I look at the indicator in my bar, and it shows no device available. I open up the Network and sharing Center and select the change adapter settings, and the only thing showing is an ethernet connection that I don't use. I can sometimes get the adapter to return by using the find and fix devices option on the search menu, but sometimes even that doesn't work. I've even been getting the "This device cannot find enough free resources (code 12)" message for the Ralink PCIe from the troubleshooter. while I did see an article on this elsewhere, I had some trouble understanding it. Can anyone help me figure out why this is happening to my laptop? Thanks for any help you can provide.
You might need to update and install the laptops chipset drivers. And also try to update the driver for your wireless adapter from the manufactures site or from the HP support page.
When I connect my headset to the front it I receive msg. that I connect mic, and I'm sure that I connect it in the right way,when I connect it in the green one in the back it says that I connected it in the orange ! I had this problems after bios update!
Verify that you used the correct bios update. You could have accidentally installed a bios meant for a similar model computer that just happens to mostly work for yours. If that is not the case, you could always try to revert back to an older bios to see if that fixes the problem.
After updating the Windows XP to Windows 7, my computer becomes really slow and recently often receives a low disk space message. And there is only 3GB of free space left on my system partition. So, I think it is the time to extend my system partition space. But, I am not so familiar about the partition expanding things and don?t know what to do. Do you have any idea for me? Please, give me some suggestions! Thanks!
Can you post a screenshot of Disk Management, so we can better understand what you are dealing with?
I have a Samsung RF510 laptop; really nice and plays games nicely, but as of yesterday I've had a problem.
Whenever -anything- that runs causing the fan to start roaring and the vents to get hot, the laptop will suddenly shut down after just 10 minutes. It could be games, I could be rendering a video in sony vegas, doesn't matter.
Thing is, the corner where the vents were would always get really hot on my laptop and this has never posed a problem before; only now it is suddenly shutting down. It's never done this before yesterday, and I mean never. Even a week straight of 5 hours of Borderlands on max settings every night never caused an issue.
Would blowing compressed air into the vents help? Is there a known issue (I did LOTS of searching all day, though it only found people with similar problems who haven't fixed them)? should I try something else completely?
I would appreciate any advice! I can provide additional specs if necessary.
Compressed air might help. Is this notebook on a flat surface when you use it? Try not to use these thing on bed covers and sheets.
So, I recently fired up my old PC and it worked for a while just fine but now all of a sudden it speeds up like crazy. The analog gadget clock spins like a fan and every keystroke gets "pushed" at least 20 times if I just tap it once.
The question is, is there a way to "vsync" or slow down the computer to a normal rate?
How old? Sounds almost like a dying CMOS battery (the little button battery on your mobo).
I'd turn PC off, unplug from power, take out this battery, press power buttons, then assemble it 10 mins later and turn it on and see.
My problem is that when I try to connect to internet through Wifi it says Limited connection and troubleshooting says that Wifi IP configuration is invalid, but when I use cable the connection is fine. It all happened after I plugged ethernet cable from router to a new PC and if I connected it back to router few days later I got that problem with all devices like phones and laptops. My ISP told me to get a new router, but when I change under IPv4 properties from automatical to following:
IP address: 192.168.1.101
Subnet mask: 255.255.255.0
Default gateway: 192.168.1.1
Alternate DNS: 18.104.22.168
with that I get like 1-2Mbit connection which is slow and I'm not sure that it's safe to use.
I have also tried to restart router many times.
Can anyone help me to solve this?
but when I change under IPv4 properties from automatical to following:
IP address: 192.168.1.101
Subnet mask: 255.255.255.0
Default gateway: 192.168.1.1
Alternate DNS: 22.214.171.124
with that I get like 1-2Mbit connection which is slow and I'm not sure that it's safe to use.Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Perfectly good AND safe.
Your symptom sounds like the DHCP reply is not reaching the device. Set it back to AUTO, connect
and then get the config again with ipconfig /all. If you see 169.x.x.x, that's a DHCP failure
I just bought a new computer and I must have hit something but now I cannot use the question mark as all I get is the EéééÉÉÉ and the one above is the sameèèè. so anoying how do I undo this please
C J Hadley said:
I just bought a new computer and I must have hit something but now I cannot use the question mark as all I get is the EéééÉÉÉ and the one above is the sameèèè. so anoying how do I undo this pleaseClick to expand...
No guarantee, but if wireless, remove the batteries for a bit, it might help. Any lights lit up on the keyboard? If so, which?
I finally found out why my wireless keyboard didn't work as I mentioned in another thread several months back.
Evidently the USB wifi thingy was in a USB port that didn't work. When I was going thru this thread http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/unknown-device.202706/
I removed it thinking it might be the unknown device.
Anyhow, I've been trying to find the manual for my wireless KB & can't find it.
I'm not sure which number(s) I need. MS PART NO. X820309-001
Serial number or Product ID? Here it is
Well, I went here http://www.microsoft.com/hardware/en-us/d/wireless-keyboard-3000 & despite the fact its default language is English, the downloads are in any language BUT.
Hope everyone is fine and well.
My said laptop is having severe heating problem with my Latitude E6430 i5-3360M upgraded to Windows 8 Enterprice 64 bit OS.
It is getting heat up too much from left side and exhausting the battery earliest.
Just one issue that can I see in it that Teredo tunneling pseudo interface shows a yellow exlamation mark in Device Manager. Windows 7 Ultmate 64 but I cannot find the solution to mitigate it.
Your expeditious help is requested to resolve the above problem.
You require to uninstall and then re-install the device which shown the exclamation mark in device manager, otherwise require to run the device driver further.
First of all my config MB Crosshair IV Formula BIOS v CPU AMD Phenom II problem be) (might with PSU/MB help Need X T ghz stock with Zalman Need help with (might be) PSU/MB problem s cnps x cooler RAM Need help with (might be) PSU/MB problem GB x AMD Performance Edition GPU ATI HD with Accelero Xtreme III cooler SSD Corsair Force GT gb system and GB Samsung HDD PSU Corsair GS VA SMS Nobreak As follows I have been using this desktop for quite a while to years and never had a single hardware problem Every time I turned the nobreak on the case fans AND cpu fan would spin in full speed and stop before letting me turn the computer on A few days ago it stopped happening and when turning the computer on the cpu fan was taking too long to start twitching a few times as if it were trying to but not doing so sometimes resulting in an error but then I pressed F and things would go forward and the PC would work just fine Also worth noticing I didn t use to hear the cpu cooler s speed going up and down so often before as it was doing Up until yesterday this was the single issue but now it is causing my computer to reboot So far this is what I tried Removing cables from Nobreak and going straight from wall line filter - gt No good Removing VGA cables - gt No good Went to BIOS settings and enabled Q-FAN so that my cpu cooler stays in a lower level THIS has solved the rebooting issue Ran Prime blend for hours long just to ensure CPU and RAM are fine no errors at all Cable connections are all checked and ok From what I gathered so far this seems to be an issue with my PSU which is making it not provide sufficient power anymore Unfortunately I don t have a close friend with a gaming PC and neither do I trust computer stores from my town so I would have to buy a new PSU to replace it Any light on this issue would be HEARTHLY appreciated as I need to gather as much information as I can before proceding any further Also could this also be a MB issue not succesfully managing things Thank you in advance Bruno nbsp
It doesn't sound like a mobo issue, but I don't know what it could be. Try to make sure nothing is lose inside your computer with PROPER SURROUNDINGS (No carpet, grounded, etc.)
Hello, im using
Windows 7 64bit
Motherboard Name Intel Whitesburg DP55WB
Realtek ALC888/1200 @ Intel Ibex Peak PCH - High Definition Audio Controller [B-2] PCI
Headphones steelseries syberia v2 - 3.5mm jack
this is integrated sound card
so my problem is, what not working balance. then I press test, the sound must come from left to right ear, but it comes from both always, even I do all volume on right ear it anyway plays on both sides.
Even I delete driver, on default win7 driver remains same problem.
I tried to use earbuds, another headphones still same.
now im thinking just buy sound card to solve problem
I solved, so problem was my razor black widow keyboard it has 3.5mm jacks, so my headphones plug dont stick full.
im so shocked how razor failed
I'm using a 2TB WD My Passport external HDD. It was working fine, until last month. Suddenly, the HDD never showed up on my computer, and only the virtual cd (the password one) drive used to show up, and the loading bar, just used to go on and on, and explorer.exe would hang, until I remove the drive. I had given up hopes on it, and just let it go. Didn't touch the HDD for around 20 days. Yesterday, I randomly just connected it again, and the drive started working normally, with ALL my data intact. After I disconnected it, and tried to plug it back, it didn't work, and it got back to the same problem. Now, since I know that the data is fully intact, I really don't want to format the drive. And yes, the disk is recognized and is visible in device manager. Please help me out, with this.
Thanks a lot, in advance!
I would suggest you to do a back up copy of your important files from that drive and try running WD Data Lifeguard diagnostic tool to check and fix possible error on your drive.
I was not sure on what board to post this.
When running Windows XP on my older computer I could play an enhanced CD that besides a full tack of music I would also see really nice graphics in the beginning where I could make selections to see maps and different info.
Now that I am running Windows 7 I only have the option of hearing the music.
Any ideas as to what the problem may be?
My Kraken is picking up everything I say, before anyone says about unchecking ''listen to device'', it's not checked, the weird thing is, when I disable the mic from the sound options, it stills picks up everything, it's like the headphones and microphone are connected.
I use Windows 7 ultimate 64bit
Hi there, I purchased an edifier mh 1370 multimedia speaker a while back it has been working fine. I took it to a mates place for a birthday party and when I brought it back to mine and connected it up, it seems that the right speaker out port does not work.. I've plugged the right speaker into the left port and vice versa and both speakers work so it's definitely not the speakers. I've checked my audio software and properties nothing has changed. I've checked the 3.5mm audio connecting cable. I mean all I did was bring it to a party let it run for about 9hours I think and came back used it and the right speaker port doesn't work Would it be an internal problem? if so how would I fix it? I don't know anything about electronics and I really don't wanna buy a new one trying to be handy here haha....
Plug some headphones or earbuds into the jack to make sure both channels are working. If it sounds okay, your most likely problem is the wires in your speaker system - usually the 3.5 plug or the nearby wire has separated inside the insulation. I would cut the original plug off and solder in a new one from Radio Shack, if you're okay with soldering, or have a repair shop do it if you're not able to.
All of a sudden my build-in webcam is no longer recognised. I have upgraded my OS from windows 7, to windows 8, to windows 8.1, but that was a while ago and my webcam has worked in the mean time.
Has anyone had similar problems or does someone have a (possible) solution? All ideas are welcome, since I need my webcam for videoconferences.
It could be compatibility problem,,, try to install webcam for windows 8.1
I am having the same issue I can not find one single thing online to resolve the problem I am running windows 7
Moderator note - Moved from this thread: http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/acer-aspire-one-d257-resolution.201534/
Have you tried right clicking the desktop and then clicking screen resolution and adjusting it to where you can see the taskbar?
Hi, I have problem with my flash drive. It just won't load, I tried everything, and still nothing.
Here is some pictures that can help.. I think..
Windows installs multiple drivers for this device. This is the 2nd driver (that's failing to install). The first will be listed under USB in Device Manager. By default, Device Manager only displays a device when its connected.
Plug in/remove your device and look for a device appearing/disappearing under USB. It'll probably be a USB Mass Storage device. (Maybe a USB Composite). When you find it, right click it Properties->Details tab. Use the pull down menu to select Hardware IDs. Copy/paste what you see in your next post
I'm trying to create a second partition on the SD card in my phone. I'm using Minitool Partition and the newest version doesn't even detect the SD card and an older version detects it but when I go to resize and click "apply changes" it gives me an I/O error. How can I fix this? Would reformatting the SD card completely help?
Since you are already screwing with partitions, then sure, why not reformat it? It will kill anything you have on it currently though.
I have networked PCs before many times successfully so this is not my first time trying to network PCs in a home environment Though I m wondering if Windows is part of the problem I would have thought that for sure until one of the name credentials bad password? user with unknown even correct failure: or "Logon new laptops running W would not connect to any of the other three PCs Laptops running W Yet these other three W PCs Laptops CAN connect to this laptop Then it gets a little more "Logon failure: unknown user name or bad password? even with correct credentials interesting this same laptop that couldn t connect to those three W PCs Laptops CAN connect to a Windows desktop and a XP Laptop and those two can also connect back to it without issue It s almost like my network is divided in half and only half can talk to each other But then when I thought it couldn t get any more interesting I realized the first three W PCs Laptops can talk to the others it s just that the others W Laptop W Desktop XP Laptop can t talk back to them without getting the error quot Logon failure unknown user name or bad password even though the username and password are correct I don t fully understand this error because on the surface it s just WRONG My username and password are correct but it appears something somewhere is interfering or hijacking the authentication process Three of the computers laptops are brand new just purchased last week and setup this week The HostPC is also fairly new just purchased last month I am not using a HomeGroup and have removed all computers that were part of a HomeGroup I have enabled file sharing and network discovery and enabled Use user accounts and passwords to connect to other computers on all PCs I have DSL and am using the wireless modem provided by my ISP which has router functionality built into it It is a Sagemcom Model F ST N All computers are connected wirelessly Time is correct on all PCs I cannot use Group Policy since they re all Standard or Home edition DHCP is enabled and all computers are on the same subnet using the x range of ip addresses The six computers are as follows I figured this may make is easier to visualize the layout HostPC HP Desktop W PC Name DrsBlend U N DrsBlend p w not showing my real password PC HP Laptop W PC Name DrsBlend- U N DrsBlend P W PC HP Laptop W PC Name DrsBlend- U N DrsBlend P W PC HP Laptop W PC Name DrsBlend- U N DrsBlend P W PC HP Desktop W SP PC Name DrsBlend- U N DrsBlend P W PC Dell Laptop XP SP PC Name DrsBlend- U N DrsBlend P W Every PC stated above has the same user name and password and is logged-in with the username DrsBlend and the password The quot Logon failure unknown user name or bad password happens when trying to access HostPC PC or PC from PC PC or PC The HostPC can see and connect to all the PCs but only PC and PC can talk back or access the HostPC It s like the HostPC and PC and PC are in their own little clique and can talk back and forth to each other Those three PCs can also talk to PC PC and PC as well but PC PC and PC cannot talk back to them HostPC PC PC Profile corruption I would have entertained that thought but the fact the first three PCs can access and talk to one another kind of defeats that idea and the fact the PCs were just recently setup Firewall Disabled and disabled TrendMicro with no change With them on off the first three PCs can still talk to each other and the rest of the PCs Anyone have any additional suggestions nbsp
I experienced a similar problem when I was trying to network my 8.1 machine the host network. As you say the host PC can see and connect to all of the machines, but not the other way around. Not sure if it is the same in your situation but I found that Microsoft's idea of network sharing on the Windows 8 class of OS differs greatly from previous OS's in that you can connect to it from an external host, but when trying to do the other way around it doesn't "see" the PC in question due to differing network sharing protocols included in the OS.
Anyone feel free to correct me if I am wrong, I am speaking only from what happened with my network.
I decided to take the plunge and go with the U-verse internet phone etc because of the speed upgrade and the savings I would get As you already know U-verse needs it s own modem router combo I asked the salesman if I could keep my same router and just use the modem part of the problem Uverse router/modem U-verse system and they said yes no problem Well problem The guy that hooked up my system was not sure Uverse router/modem problem how to connect to two together to make the U-verse just the modem and my modem router to be the router Well I am not sure how to do this either I have a Netgear DGN and the U-verse one is a Motorola NVG I have to take the phone line and go into the Motorola and out into the Netgear I can t get into either router now to check anything out I do get internet so I am at least okay in that respect but some of my links to my lighting system and other things don t work properly now I suppose because it is not set up right Any help would be greatly appreciated Just let me know what other info you would need to help me with this little mess Thanks nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/uverse-router-modem-problem.201676/
I ve read all I can about this online and tried everything I ve come across Since upgrading my internet same ISP the upload on my computer not any others on the network It ranges from megabits to If I boot into linux I get but that s far from the megabits the other Slow Problem: Bizzare Infuriating Upload Network computers on the network get But the strange thing is the problem seems to affect only certain programs My browsers are affected as the internet tests I do are from the browser OBS streaming software will not upload more then megabits about k However utorrent can completely max out my upload I ve tried stopping the WMI service and Bizzare Infuriating Network Problem: Slow Upload I have no traffic shaping software installed Here are my specs Operating System Windows Pro -bit CPU Intel Core i K GHz C Haswell nm Technology RAM GB Dual-Channel DDR MHz - - - Motherboard MSI Z -GD GAMING MS- SOCKET C Graphics SyncMaster x Hz LG TV x Hz MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX Gigabyte C Storage GB Samsung SSD EVO GB SSD C GB SanDisk SDSSDHP G SSD C GB TOSHIBA DT ACA SATA C GB Seagate Bizzare Infuriating Network Problem: Slow Upload ST DL - VT SATA C Optical Drives PIONEER DVD-RW DVR- L Audio ASUS Xonar DGX Audio Device Various Network info You are connected to the internet Connected through Killer e Gigabit Ethernet Controller NDIS IP Address Subnet mask Gateway server Preferred DNS server DHCP Enabled DHCP server External IP Address Adapter Type Ethernet NetBIOS over TCP IP Enabled via DHCP NETBIOS Node Type Hybrid node Link Speed Bps Computer Name NetBIOS Name CALVINS-PC DNS Name Calvins-PC Membership Part of workgroup Workgroup WORKGROUP Remote Desktop Disabled Console State Active Domain Calvins-PC WinInet Info LAN Connection Local system uses a local area network to connect to the Internet Local system has RAS to connect to the Internet Wi-Fi Info Wi-Fi not enabled WinHTTPInfo WinHTTPSessionProxyType No proxy Session Proxy Session Proxy Bypass Connect Retries Connect Timeout ms HTTP Version HTTP Max Connects Per Servers INFINITE Max Connects Per Servers INFINITE Max HTTP automatic redirects Max HTTP status continue Send Timeout ms IEProxy Auto Detect Yes IEProxy Auto Config IEProxy IEProxy Bypass Default Proxy Config Access Type No proxy Default Config Proxy Default Config Proxy Bypass Sharing and Discovery Network Discovery Enabled File and Printer Sharing Enabled File and printer sharing service Enabled Simple File Sharing Enabled Administrative Shares Enabled Network access Sharing and security model for local accounts Classic - local users authenticate as themselves Adapters List Killer e Gigabit Ethernet Controller NDIS Connection-specific DNS Suffix Home Connection Name Ethernet NetBIOS over TCPIP Yes DHCP enabled Yes MAC Address D - D- E-F - B- IP Address Subnet mask Gateway server DHCP DNS Server Network Shares Misc D Misc Finished Torrents D Downloads Finished Torrents Games D Games Games E Games Torrents E Downloads Torrents Video D Video Video E Video Current TCP Connections C Program Files x Google Chrome Application chrome exe C Program Files x NVIDIA Corporation Update Core NvBackend exe C Program Files Box Sync BoxSync exe C Program Files Hola app hola exe C Users Calvin AppData Roaming uTorrent uTorrent exe C Windows Explorer EXE G Program Files x Nightly firefox exe G Program Files x Razer Razer Game Booster main exe G Program Files x Samsung Magician Samsung Magician exe G Steam Steam exe hola svc exe hola updater exe KillerService exe lsass exe NvNetworkService exe nvstreamsvc exe services exe svchost exe svchost exe svchost exe System Process System Process wininit exe nbsp
I figured it out, the Killer NIC on my Z87GD65 mobo was not compatible with NetLimiter. Uninstalling it fixed the problem
I bought an asus motherboard from new egg, and 2 of the pins in the processor socket are raised higher than the rest of them, there were also 2 pins bent in half, none of them are close to the other. has anyone heard of a board problem with spme pins longer than the others? it is not much, but very noticable. you can feel them with your finger. new egg is denying the rma, saying I caused damage. have built many rigs, definitly came out of box like this. thanks
Which one of the pins is raised? Here is an example of what a socket of a Z87 motherboard should look like for example:
What is the model of the motherboard? Can you provide an image?
I would try contacting ASUS directly.