I have a samsung Hard Disk, so well when I'm testing my hars disk the software show an error : X 03 Spin up Time the especific information it was attachment in this thread.
Please if you know some kind of solution, tell me.
I'll appreaciate your cooperation.
I recommend downloading and running Reimage. It's a computer repair tool that has been proven to identify and fix many Windows problems with a high level of success.
I've used it in the past to identify and fix everything from blue screens (BSOD's), ActiveX errors, corrupt files and processes, dll/exe/sys errors, recover lost memory, Windows update problems, defragging, malware removal etc.
You can download it direct from this link http://downloadreimage.com/directdownload.php. (This link will automatically start a download of Reimage that you can save to your computer.)
Are you having trouble with this drive? If not, this error could be meaningless. Does the Drive pass its SMART test?http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/spin-up-time-warning-imminent-data-lost-is-predistec.130051/
Power outage due to storm. Came back on without pictures and documents. It's an HP desktop. Would a file recovery program work? I've tried some of the instructions online, but they don't work.
Oh mary; I feel your pain. Were the pics within one folder and now they're ALL missing?
Hi, I have decided to buy a new computer(or the parts for one).
It will be the first time I assemble one so I would like a little
help from the people on here that has some experaince with computer hardware,
because I myself do not know very much about it.
I have done some research and this is what I came up with:
Motherboard : Asus Z97-A Intel Z97 4xDDR3 SLI CrossFireX Socket 1150 ATX
CPU : Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Socket 1150
RAM : Crucial Ballistix Sport DDR3 DIMM PC12800/1600MHz CL9 2x4GB
GPU : Gigabyte GeForce GTX 750Ti OC 2GB D
PSU : CORSAIR PSU 550W VS550
Hard Drive : Western Digital WD20E, 2TB, SATA 6 Gb/s, 3.5", IntelliPower, 64MB
What I want to know is if all these parts will fit together and if it is a good
computer? I want a fast computer thats good at a bit of everything. What I will be using it for mostly is programming, games like bfbc2, downloading/watching movies/tv series and just browse the internet.
And I think I will be using mint as my os(still new to linux).
I think those are great choices.
I've said time and time again that solid state drives are the future but the truth of the matter is, traditional spinning disks still have a place inside a modern PC as a storage / backup drive. The question then becomes,...
Well I'm glad I have never bought a Seagate HD. I usually buy Western Digital, except my SSD is Samsung.
I want to start a youtube gaming channel but idk if I have the power to record games like minecraft and record at the same time do you think I have the power to do it?
Windows 7 Home Premium (64bit)
AMD A10 5800K Quad Core Processor
16GB DDR3 1333 Mhz Ram
1TB SATA Hard Drive
Radeon HD 8370D Graphics
5.1 channel Sound Chipset
GigaByte Network Ethernet
Wireless N 150 Wifi
DVD-RW Burner Drive
All in One Card Reader
6 x USB2.0
400W Power Supply
Dimensions (WxDxH): 19" x 7.75" x 17"
E-3lue E-Blue Mazer II 2500 DPI Blue LED 2.4GHz Wireless Optical Gaming Mouse
USB 2.0 Clip-on Webcam Camera HD 12 Megapixels with MIC for PC Laptop Win 7/8
Logitech K360 920-003365 Wireless Keyboard - Ivory - Small
Sades 7.1 Surround Sound USB Headband Pro Gaming Headset For PC Laptop SA-903 PC Laptop SA-903
Do you have any connectivity issues or slow load times? Also, what is the make and model of your power supply?
Otherwise you should be fine.
I recently cloned my old 160gb hdd on to a new 1tb hdd, then proceeded to format my old hdd. After formating it had lost 128gb only showing 32gb. I have checked for partitions (unallocated) but none can be found. Even tried remapping mbr, with no result. Any help to recover my lost storage space would be great.
I'm running Windows 7 home premium BTW don't no if that info will help with a solution or not.
My friend's USB flash memory has data (its drive shows that there is data in it) but when I double click on it to open it and see the contents, it doesn't show any folders and files! I did the following works:
1- I scanned it by my updated kaspersky AV. but no threat found
2- Scanned by windows defender tool. same result!
3- scanned by malwarebytes anti-malware. same.
4- cmd (run as administrator) -> go to its drive (e.g., H:, when H is my flash drive) and typing the attarib -s -h *.* /s /d command. It could not to show the data.
All my attempts faced failure till now.
Can anyone help me please?
Go to cmd (run as administrator) -> go to its drive (e.g. H: where H is my flash drive) and type the attrib -s -h *.* /s /d
Now flash will show the data.
Your attrib spelling was wrong correct them
Video Card EVGA GTX 750Ti Superclocked 2GB
CPU Intel Pentium G3258
Memory Team Elite Plus 8GB DDR3 1333MHz RAM
Motherboard ASRock H97M Anniversary
Power Supply Corsair CX430 430W PSU
HDD Western Digital WD Blue 1TB 7200RPM HDD
Case Corsair Carbide Series Spec-01 case
How much do you guys think I could get this built for and do you reckon it could play the elder scrolls online on the highest settings or the medium settings thanks.
Also I on a budget and probably won't pay over $500
My first time building! some things have not yet been picked, so I want your opinion on the things I have in mind, and the ones I can't decide over...
Motherboard: Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z
Processor: AMD FX-8350
Graphics card: Sapphire r9 280
RAM: Kingston HyperX Savage 2x 4GB
power supply: Corsair CX750
Optical Drive: lg bh16ns40 multi blue
Do I seriously need an sdd drive?
also any cases that might suit my build or anything I might not need or DO need?
Did you already purchase the items above or is that what you have in mind for purchasing? What is your overall budget for your Gaming PC? What types of games are you going to be playing on this PC? The AMD FX-8350 is a good CPU, but if you want any kind of future proofing, I would suggest getting an Intel. If you let us know how much you can spend, we can help you build one that will be better for future games.
Also, no you do not need a SSD (Solid State Drive), but it will make boot times and load times faster. My suggestion with that, is purchase a smaller SSD (120GB maybe) for your operating system and also purchase a larger (1TB+) Hard Drive for everything else (applications, storage, etc).
I need the best and most compatible router for TWC?
I need the router to reach a very good distance (between 3 houses really close to each other). Or would it be better to get a booster?
To share from house-to-house, you need a strong RF signal so look for MIMO Class routers with multiple antennas, three if you can find one. If the lot layout is like a triangle between the houses, one good router should work, otherwise when lined-up like a fence, you will need a repeater.
This laptop will not save documents or files to the hard drive. They are there when initially saved, but disappear when the system is next switched on.
Anyone help me pls...
You need to say whether you are new to computers or not and which Windows operating system you have. I remember when we first got a computer many years ago the wife thought that I'd deleted her work. In fact we didn't know whereabouts it was saved and couldn't find our way around. If you are a beginner using Windows 7 try clicking on the Start button and then Documents in the menu that opens to the right. By default that's where things are saved but you can use the Save As option and choose a different location.
I have bought JBL Speaker FLIP Model FHP 2 on 14th July 2014 but it worked for only 2 to 2.5 months thereafter not working anymore.
I have taken to SPAR Artee Industrial on 29/09/14 but they are not providing free replacement not they are able to repairs as Charging PIN has spoiled. THe part is not available locally. The JBP Speaker are not working at all now.
Kindly suggest, for the Customer Care Complaints I am unable to find the Customer Care/ Replacement Customer Care / Service Center / Top Management Contact numbers for getting help for repairs / replacement.
Windows 7 doesn't recognize my SSD drive. When I go to disk management, it shows a message to initialize it (image no.1) but when I press OK to do that, one another message appears and says: Data error cyclic redundancy check (image no.2). My computer windows doesn't show that drive and also when I went to cmd->diskpart, again it didn't show that disk to use of chkdsk /f command. How to solve the problem please?
I could to revive that disk in diskpart using PartedMagic in boot. I've uploaded a new image from that. The remained problem here is that I can't delete it there.
My bother had deleted my laptop partition files and folders when attempting to extend my C partition. All my stored partition movies were lost and could not be found in Recycle Bin. Do you know where these partition videos are? I really want to view these videos again. What can I do to rescue them? Thank you for any advice!
Sorry to hear you are experiencing such an issue.
Your data is stilll there somewhere as long as you don't overwrite it. If you save new data, it would rewrite your previous files.
I did some research for you and I found a threat that you might find helpful:
I really hope this works for you!
I am using Tenda wifi router. It has a problem, it is that it need configuration every time when I start my laptop or connecting with any mobile device. What is the problem with that?
The Tenda wifi router's internal battery may be dead
I have a sony SD Card 16gb class 4 card. I did use the card for almost 3 months, when I tried to use it now, I am not able to access the card,
I tried recovery softwares like recova etc to recover the file, but I was not able to recover even a single byte.
I have many importants files in the CARD, PLEASE HELP ME...,.
I think >>this thread<< could help you out . He seems to have the same problem.
Is there any difference between software which are used for recovering data from HDD or flash memory drives and SSD? For example, can we use of the apps used for HDD to recover data from SSD too?
I do not see why the HDD programs shouldn't work for SSDs. Maybe @jobeard can weigh in if I am wrong. I would check out this article.
Whenever I connect my Hard-disk to laptop, my laptop slows down and am not able to open the hard-disk folder. Am not able to access my data in it. As soon as I disconnect the Hard disk, laptop gets back to normal. Can anyone please help with the issue ?
If it's physically damaged, nothing you can do it in your own. You need to consult it to a professional unless you have knowledge and experience on some DIY hard drive repair.
Okay not really very good at this but my laptop stopped working so I took hd out and connected it to anotherlaptop through usb lead it appears in my disk management (although it shows up grey instead of black or blue if that makes sense to anyone) but it wont show in my computer I have a load od family photos on this drive and would really love some help and will send out good karma to all who try to help me many thanks in advance
Hi techmichellenot. When you say it stopped working,is there anything on the screen when you power up, or any indication that the system passed it's POST procedure (Power On Self Test), usually indicated by a beep before Windows itself tries to boot up?. Any error messages seen?. Sounds like you put the drive in an external case that can connect via USB. If there is indeed a problem with the disk drive and it's not a physical problem with the drive (maybe a corrupted Windows boot file,etc),your system may have a Recovery procedure that will reinstall your OS without erasing your data files (called a non destructive OS reinstall) as opposed to a destructive which erases everything and reinstalls the OS. I would check your documentation to see if your laptop has such a procedure.
My internal HDD failed due to a sudden power outage. I can hear beeping sounds like the motor is trying to spin the drive up and failing to do so. This drive contains all my important data ( documents, photos and videos), I'm thinking of taking it to a data recovery center, How much would it cost me for a data recovery service? I've been recommended to WeRecoverData data recovery labs by an IT person, Anyone have experience with them? Any help advice? Thanks in advance.
Likely thousands. Hopefully in the future you will make backups of important data.
If it was killed by the power outage, you can probably fix it yourself by purchasing the exact same drive on ebay or wherever and swap the PCB.
Hi been awhile since I last posted. In the house we have a desktop and 2 laptops on the go in the house.The desktop is wired internet while the laptops are run on wifi.This worked fine until my isp UPC upgraded my internet speed from 50mb to 120mb.. The desktop and one of the laptops still works fine but the acus laptop has web access for between 20 mins to 45mins before the wifi drops off and becomes limited access. The wifi needs to be renabled to regain access to the wifi which lasts another small while until it gets limited access again.
The laptop specs are:
Windows 7 home premium 64bit
intel Centrino N100 wifi adapter
At the moment its running for 30 mins then wifi cuts off for a few seconds before starting up again.
My house was hit by lightening a few years ago and it fried my computers- so I very quickly went out and bought a WD g mybook external hard drive which I have everything stored on Please keep in mind I am not an expert by any means and do not have a lot of experience with these types of things other than simple computer installs ect but I would not consider myself a beginner I am just desperate to recover my files without having to pay someone to try to do it for me A few weeks ago my computer simply me a WD MyBook off Help my get data stopped recognizing it was there When I would power it off or on or reset it it would attempt to load but the blue light would constantly blink First think I did was try a new USB cord which changed nothing- I also have tried it on three different computers- Nothing I read about taking the hard drive out of the casing yes I realize it voids any warranty but at this point I am more concerned with my data than getting any sort of a replacement so I carefully removed it- I put it in my computer hooked up to a SATA drive- It did not show up in Help me get my data off a WD MyBook Disk management or under my computer I went into BIOS and did see a removable disk but if I set it as boot priority obviously it would not work- I do not know if there was something else I should have done to get it to work in BIOS I then hooked it into another computer where I have a second hard drive- Took mine out and put this one in its place since I know that I am able to access my second hard drive on this computer- It simply didnt show up I then took it to Best Buy- And they informed it that the hard drive was trash- That her machine would not even get it to power up at all that data recovery was not even possible and I should throw the hard drive away and start over I took it to another computer store who told me they could send it out and attempt data recovery at the tune of I brought the drive home- Hooked back up the USB board and plugged it back in as if it was again a external- It turned on- light begin to blink as before- but I can also hear and feel it spinning- I am not hearing any strange sounds nothing sound loose inside it just sounds like it spins for a few minutes then stops- and that light constantly blinks I then read online that someone mentioned that with these they often have an encryption built in to the usb connection which makes it so the hard drive will not power up as an internal hard drive or without that usb board on it Anyone know if there is truth to that I am desperate to get this to function so I can get my files off of it- Please if anyone has any ideas what I can do please share Thank you in advance- Brooke nbsp
I don't know anything that'll help you, sorry.
But here's your step#1 problem: My house was hit by lightening a few years ago and it fried my computers- so I very quickly went out and bought a WD 500g mybook external hard drive which I have everything stored on.
If your computers get fried, an external HDD will also probably get fried. Remember, having a backup means having a minimum of three copies (original, 'backup', long-term storage backup).
Friends and neighbors, last March I had such a system crash that, due to the number of bad HD sectors, I had to replace the HD. The HD with my various tools was not even detectable. My system ran Windows 7 64-Bit and IE9. The computer is an MSI notebook. Anyway, while doing some searching to diagnose another problem, I registered for this site after seeing Puppy Linux, whose page I saved to my Favorites. Having kept the old HD, in case I could salvage any data, is it possible for me to use Puppy Linux on that old HD? Thanks. Your answers will be a great help.
Hey Louis. We don't know how bad the drive is, but you can try putting the drive in a USB enclosure, formatting it, then install Puppy Linux on it, since apparently Puppy Linux doesn't require a lot of space and can also be run from RAM according to the Wikipedia link.
So... like most of world my family lives online. Having found that ISP pricing in Alaska is horrendously expensive, I want to find a solution that I can create 4 SSIDs, one for each of my three kids (ages 12, 14, &16) and one for me and my wife, and place a data cap on each SSID so that I can't be hit up with the bills that come with overages. I figure with individual SSIDs they can use what ever device they have with out having to detirmine MAC addresses or IPs used or any of that other stuff.
I would like to have just one router be able to accomplish this. I have an older router, an Apple Time Capsule I bought about 6 years ago, but as I don't use Macintosh computers any more, I would be happy to buy a new router and get it set up to manage this dilema.
Any Advice or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Hi all, a friend has a laptop running XP, the system clock resets everytime it's switched off for more than half an hour or so. I have tried three replacement CMOS batteries (and checked the voltage with a multimeter, 3V or thereabouts), no joy. I have cleaned the battery clip contacts & definitely inserted the batteries right way up, any polite suggestions please?
Have you check the bios to make sure the time is set correctly in the bios? If not windows will not keep the correct time.
You saved an old hard drive (or three) from previous computers and now you?d like to get at the data on them. Is there an easy way to access the data without cracking open your current computer and mounting the hard drives inside?
very good. I was trying to explain this to someone. Now I think I will just send then the Web Page.
So as a service tech I have had to troubleshoot many a bad power supply or motherboard but here is an error I have not encountered yet The tower time only first Machine the powers up I am troubleshooting is -bit HP compaq dx microtower I dont think it has vista on it any longer but it doesn t get that far When mouse keyboard VGA display and power are plugged in and I press the power button the fans spin up and the machine begins to Machine only powers up the first time power up but nothing comes on the monitor Monitor is on correct input setting and verified to work Also note that there are no addition display chips installed nor have there ever been any So I power it down to verify RAM is seated HDD plugged in all cables and buses are correct and they are but when I press the power button there is no response at all this time no matter what I try I even bypassed the button with another switch in case the relay was bad and no luck So I left work traveled out of town and a week later I come back and give it another try Here s what is strange like a de javu the machine does the same mysterious thing where it powers the first only and no luck the subsequent times It seems the power supply is ok at least enough to power it the first time and the motherboard LED is on Obviously something has gone bad but what could it be has anyone encountered a similar issue nbsp
Three times actually.
One with a bad set of RAM modules.
The RAM modules were RMA'd. When I tried them in two completely different systems, they somehow locked up the system and removing the motherboard battery was the only way to get the system functioning again, even with the previous modules.
Two with a replacement motherboard.
The motherboard replacement would not boot with an i7-2600K. After calling the vendor they convinced me to try a lower level CPU so that I could flash the BIOS. Since all previous versions of the BIOS that I am currently running support the i7-2600K, I suspect it was a newer BIOS meant for Ivy Bridge support.
Three with a power supply failure.
The power supply failed in the middle of using the PC. During the process of rebooting, the PC would not do anything.
All three times the PC would try to boot but fail. On reboot attempt there would not be any signs of life. After disconnecting the battery and/or removing the power cord, the system would then try and attempt to boot once again. Long story short, it could be a number of things that could be wrong, don't rule any of them out.
I burned 1 GB of info in a DVD-R disc. Computer could read it perfectly and said 1 GB was recorded and 3 GB still free available for more data.
Next day I tried to add more data, 0.5 GB in a folder. All was OK, I dragged folder to DVD and PC said it was doing the job, after 2 minutes said folder was ready to be burnt. But the previous folders did not appear. I quit burning and tried to check the information on DVD. right- clicked properties and PC says it has 1 GB of data burnt and 3 GB available. But if I try to read the information I had burnt before, nothing, no files or folders.
May I still recover the 1.0 GB recorded first day? HOw?
When burning multiple sessions to a DVD-R disk, if the sessions are not left open or closed improperly, then it can "lose" data or make the entire disk worthless. As for recovering data from a DVD-R or any optical disk, for all intents & purposes it's a lost cause, it's not impossible, but it would cost out the wazoo and the likelihood of recovery is slim.
As cheap as DVD-R disks are, don't burn multiple sessions, just burn once and be done with it.
Hope this helps, take care!
My HDD sounds like it is reading for a good 3-5 minutes on startup. Programs run after a minute or so - albeit very slowly...
Does this mean its new HDD time as it is a good few years old, or do I have hidden files starting.
I have cleared out what I can find that I don't need at boot....
How many autoupdate programs are running in your services AND
(for me) the Avast! A/V program induces this behavior.
I've reduced the autoupdates on my laptop, but love Avast! and have learned to just accept it.
So over the last few days my Samsung laptop has been putting itself into standby mode without any Samsung warning standby into going mode without Laptop warning And I for the life of me cannot figure out why All options to turn off the computer have been set to Samsung Laptop going into standby mode without warning never while it s plugged in so it s not that I suspected it was the laptop overheating for awhile but I ve got SpeedFan running and with the latest shut down the core temperatures were only around degrees Celsius I ve seen it run up to degrees when I really pushed it to investigate how hot it got and that didn t prompt any response at all except Samsung Laptop going into standby mode without warning for the fan speeding up and the laptop cooled down pretty fast when I let up on what I was doing Is there any other reason the laptop would shut down like this I m not the most computer smart in the world when it comes to the internal workings so any help would be appreciated Potentially relevant things Samsung laptop NP V C Radeon graphics card Intel core i Windows OS nbsp
Do you have all standby options shut off, like when closing the lid?
I just got a new toshiba satellite C55-A5302 laptop and I immediately encountered a problem. The keyboard was not responding but I noticed that if I held down the key long enough then it owuld respond. I was wondering if this was a problem with the drives or if it was a factory defect or if there was any easy fix for it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
DON'T void the warranty, send it back to get it fixed.
I have narrowed my selection for a NAS down to the Synology DS413 or DS412. Primary intended use is home storage, media server, Security IP camera server, and remote storage for my children in college. Anyone have experience with these units?
Remote access by your student(s) at school to your local NAS on your router will need the router to have portforwarding enabled to the NAS address and port.
Also suggest you create a directory per user and make them all private per user and then an additional PublicDocs directory and make that r/w for everyone. In this way you know exactly what data can be access by whom and what is basically "I don't care data" in the PublicDocs\
You should also plan for backups, even if you have a Raid-10 configuration.
I had to format and re-install Windows XP on a Satellite A105-S4201 Laptop. I installed XP, and updated to SP3. The brightness control no longer works using Fn+F6/F7 (or any other way for that matter). It was working before the format.
I tried a couple of different Common Modules installs. This one: tc00324000b (version 6.07.03) won't even install. Gave me error message, "TVALG Driver installation has failed". And this one: SPA210 TCommon Modules-XP (version 1.00.06) installed, and had me restart, but when I tried to install the hotkey utilities afterward, it said "TOSHIBA Common Module not found! This setup will terminate." Also, I have the latest BIOS version installed (v 6.0)
Are there any yellow (!) in the device manager?
I recently bought a new ACER Aspire V5 netbook/laptop, and so far it's been working great, but with only one issue. The clock keeps losing time, roughly every other time it is switched off it keeps losing time. The laptop is used to keep appointments and stuff like that so the clock is in needing of being fixed SAP really. ormally, it is by a few hours, or sometime is goes back by a day or two. Its really, wierd.
- AMD A6-1450 CPU @1GHz
- 6GB DDR3 RAM
- 3 Cell Li-ion battery
- 500 GB Hard Drive
- 10 finger touch screen
- Windows 8 Pro, upggraded from Windows 8.
If its still under warranty, return it . Don't void any warranty.
Do you guys remember the first time to wipe your phone and what probems did you encounter When my first time to wipe my BB I thought I had performed a security wipe to it but I was terrified that phone? the first your Remember wiped time it won s switch on Cuz it was my first BB and I did not want to screw it up Then I tried to find ou why the device not powering on Actually before the wipe I already had some trouble with wi-fi scanning it either show the previous network it was connected or no network found so I decided to wipe it out After the wipe when I turned it on the display showed logo like shredding something and I waited and waited but it won Remember the first time wiped your phone? t turn on Then I tried to remove the MPJ battery which I bought for extending battery life for several minutes and then switched on again but the same logo appeared I felt hopeless and pissed so I decided to left my phone aside and Remember the first time wiped your phone? did my own thing Several hours later I picked up my BB and surprised it was able to turn on Then I googled the meaning of the logo and there was nothing wrong of my phone just not patient enough nbsp
I don't like the Blackberry without the keyboard, the best BB is 9930 and the keyboard is so good that I can not help to writing something all the time.
BB10 is a little expensive now and maybe I will buy a second hand one in the future.
Hi guys Recently invested in a Dell Ultrasharp quot monitor mostly with photo editing in mind and found that one of the main games I play StarCraft seems to suffer from microstutter since it doesn t fully support crossfire With this in mind I ve been eyeing up some of the latest single card solutions but from most charts and comparisons nothing looks like it s blowing my s out of the water performance wise Should I hold off for next HD5850 to Upgrade : ? Crossfire itch time generation of releases from Nvidia and AMD I can always disable crossfire for Starcraft and just live with lower frame rates at x for a while If I Upgrade itch time : HD5850 Crossfire to ? was to grab a card right now it would probably be Upgrade itch time : HD5850 Crossfire to ? a GTX or an System information doesn t seem to be an option from user picture anymore so here are the stats of the rest of the system CPU Intel i K Ghz Corsair H xAkasa Viper Motherboard Asus P P Pro B Revision Memory Gb Corsair Vengeance Graphics x MSI HD Twin Frozr II CrossfireX Audio Realtek ALC -Channel High Definition Audio Storage Crucial C GB SSD Seagate Barracude TB rpm Case Corsair Graphite T Midi Tower Any advice nbsp
Might pay to see what AMD's big announcement is on the 25th September. Best case scenario is AMD bite the bullet and opt for a big die to put some pressure on the GTX 780/ Titan, although I'm picking that what they end up with might split the difference between the 7970GE and the GTX 780 performance wise.
Either way, unless it is strictly a PPS presentation, AMD should be announcing some kind of timetable. If that launch is close at hand you could see a nice realignment pricewise if the products look compelling and present sales start to stall out, with the added bonus that AMD would again drop prices to clear inventory.
If you're set on getting a card before then, I'd check the pricing on GTX 670's as well as 760's. You'll get a little more performance with the 670 especially if its an overclocked card (basically a GTX 680 once you hit that cards clock). If not, then the 7950 is, likewise, a solid option in the £180-200 range.
Hello guys I have been thinking about building a new gaming desktop for a while now but my old idea pad finally died so it is time to do this I guess I really just need a place to start as well as some advice on specific parts my time gaming Build First budget is about - dollars Processor I was thinking I or I though I could use advice Motherboard Im really not sure what to use But I do know I would like quite a few USB ports plenty of room for ram and room for improvements graphics card I First time gaming Build like the nvidia Geforce GTX series though which one im not sure I Do know that I will be using monitors so outputs is a must The games I plan to play are starcraft Skyrim Fallout battlefield and the like I dont really care to play everything on max all the time but I would like to be ABLE to go to max but be able to play normally First time gaming Build on high settings Power I really have no idea what kind of power source I would use so this is one place I need a lot of advice other This is the area where I feel im just going to forget something like what kind of heat sink should I buy to put in the processor Things like that would be very helpful In the end anything you guys can help me with is greatly appreciated Thanks in advance guys Also just saying im not locked into the Nvidia graphics card as I have heard great things about other cards as well nbsp
Something like this is a good base. You can get a slightly lower motherboard, leave out the sound card, and put more money into GPU and PSU. Other people can help with that.
Do you need to purchase a Windows license, monitors, kb/mouse?
TLDR Graphics card and wlan card randomly stop working I ve Wlan time? working time from card and card to Graphics stop posted this on other forums Graphics card and Wlan card stop working from time to time? so far no help so heres my problem I use my computer on average - hours a day I usually play games or im surfing the net now sometimes Graphics card and Wlan card stop working from time to time? my wlan card and my graphics card just stop working they both dont appear in the device manager I cant plug in my monitor through Graphics card and Wlan card stop working from time to time? the graphics card coz the screen just stays black and the wireless internet icon on the bottom right of the windows screen just says quot no connections available quot Im not on this but it seems like this occurs after playing games for long periods of time im pretty sure the games I play arent too heavy for my system empire total war skyrim etc I took my pc to the repair shop before and everything was working fine when they tried it I dont think its a problem with the wlan or graphics card coz sometimes they work perfectly then suddenly they just stop working when this happens it usually gets fixed when I wait for a day open up the pc and clean everything then perform a system restore I have no idea whats wrong Is everything compatible could it be overheating could the motherboard be faulty Its very unlikely that both these parts just stop working at the same time Noteworth -Sometimes when the wlan card stops working the light on the card itself isnt lit up but sometimes it is -These problems dont always occur at the same time Specs Motherboard Asus M N T-M LE V Graphics Radeon HD Wlan card D-link DWA Processor AMD athlon II x PSU Cant see the brand I think its a stock PSU Max watts Thanks for the help nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/graphics-card-and-wlan-card-stop-working-from-time-to-time.195964/
I have an EVGA GTX 560-Ti graphics card connected to two monitors. The primary monitor is a Syncmaster 2433BW and the second monitor is a Syncmaster 204B. Everything was fine until this morning when I booted up and found the second monitors resolution way off. After entering the NVIDIA control panel I found the monitor simply identified as Digital Display with a very limited resolution table available, the monitor was set to 1024x768. On the control panel resolution screen it is identified as "Generic Non-PNP Monitor with only two resolutions neither of which is the recommended 1600x1200. I have tried uninstalling and reinstalling the driver with no improvement.
Have u tried This option the Resize? I use this due to my Samsung tv doesnt have really good scaling which I was left to using a random resolution but this random resolution still is read from the tv as 1920x1080 maybe it might work for u
if this doesnt work I havent actualy got which driver did u install nvidia driver or the monitor one? if so this is were u should go
<-this image seems to not be working right click open in new tab
Right click my computer Properties Device manager and rightclick on the monitors and update software
This could sound confusing but please bare with me So I had a TB HD Sata with win I took it out and used a new SSD which I put Win on Then I hooked up a TB HD Sata as Storage Simple so far right Well now I want to get my documents Bookmarks etc off the quot OLD quot drive I figured simple like with IDE HD s but no When I hook it up as the only drive I get this message EFI Shell Version Current get do How main off Hard Data My Drive? I "former" running mode Map Cannot find required map name Press Esc in seconds to skip startup nsh any other key to continue shell id gt When I hook it up as the second How do I get Data off My "former" main Hard Drive? drive After the SSD the drive doesn t show up I tried to put it in another PC by itself but it said something like it wasn t the disk for that PC Someone please tell me there is an easy way around this I googled a bunch of stuff and tried a few things with no luck I m hoping I m just frustrated and missing the obvious Thanks for any help nbsp
How about unplugging ssd plug old drive back in then transfer stuff to ur 2tb once done unplug old and replug ssd ?
I was curious if anyone who has Spotify Premium and uses it regularly on their smartphone could tell me approximately how much their monthly data usage is. I was planning on getting 4GB and was curious if this would be enough with using Spotify.
I really want some help here cause I have absolutely no idea Specs AMD A - M APU with Radeon tm DH Graphics Quad core Ghz G DDR memory Gig HDD G full Graphics Radeon HD G over FPS down Game time slows Alright I ve never really run into this problem before I can download a game and play it for the first day wonderfully Game FPS slows down over time I start back up and the next day the FPS is cut in half One of these games is War Thunder and going from an average of FPS Game FPS slows down over time to is a little painful Starmade also had this problem I was running FPS for a few days then it dropped to around and stayed there These drops happened weeks apart This has happened with other games but none of their drops happened at the same time The worst part is that one a game drops it always runs that slow and never runs any better regardless of how many restarts settings changes or background programs I close This is odd because I ve never heard of a game-specific drop in performance I should probably mention that the laptop s only about a month old If anyone could help me with this that would be great Thank you nbsp
First, we usually tell people that if this thing is still under warranty then contact seller and tell them of your issues. A10 chips are good chips.
Second, do you have a cooling pad? Heat can cause this issue.
So I got my graphics card, memory and cpu heatsink attached to my asus sabertooth z87 mobo and test with an external test. I get 1 long beep followed by 5 short beeps, although there is a small pause before the final (5th) beep. Now I only have the speaker in and do not have anything connected to a monitor. The manual says 1 continuous beep followed by 4 short ones is hardware failure but it doesn't say anything about a 5th beep that comes after a small pause. Could any of this have to do with the fact that I do not have a monitor plugged in anywhere? Other components:
Corsiar vengeance LP 16GB 1600mhz
Hyper 212 EVO
Okay so now I put it in a monitor and an error message came up saying cpu fan error and im in the bios screen now. anyone ever have this problem?
I have an old laptop HDD (I think it's out of a Dell Latitudes laptop) and I need to access data off of it. I have an SATA/IDE to USB adaptor that I've used successfully several times in this type of situation. However, this particular drive won't respond when I hook it up. It just doesn't spin. I took it to a computer shop to see if they could help me, but they weren't able to get it going.
My thinking is, if I was a bad guy and the F.B.I. confiscated this drive, how would they get info off of it? There must be a way. Any thoughts?
Buy the exact same drive on ebay. If the drive isn't spinning up it is a board issue (or a HORRIBLE spinny failure). So, get the exact same drive from ebay or somewhere else, and swap out the PCB. Problem solved.
I have a wireless ubee modem. I have had it for a will now and it has worked great up until yesterday. I can't find my wireless signal for my internet. I can hook up the usb port and get the internet just fine, but when I turn to wireless I can't even find my wireless signal name to hook up. I know my laptop is still getting signals because my modem is still finding my neighbors signals. Please help!!!
Are you using someone else internet service via WiFi? If your now they power cycle the internet modem and your wireless laptop. Power cycle means reboot them or power them down then power them up. Internet modem can be reset but you would need to call your ISP and let them send a signal to hit the box (reset it) or walk you through the steps to do it on your end.
So I was thinking and I decided that my current computer wasn t good enough for what specs, New time First Build builder games I was playing Then one of my friends gave me the idea to bulid my own gaming rig so here I am Here s my specs CPU i - k GHz Quad-Core Processor CPU Cooler Corsair H i CFM New Build specs, First time builder Liquid CPU Cooler Motherboard MSI Z -GD Gaming ATX LGA Motherboard RAM Memory Corsair Vengeance Pro GB x GB DDR - Memory Storage Intel New Build specs, First time builder Series GB mSATA Solid State Disk Some Guides I ve seen recommend getting a SSD for your operating system to be stored on and a hard drive for all your files games e t c so I m not quite sure whether to go for that idea or just SSD Video Card MSI GeForce GTX GB Video Card Case Inwin GRone Gray ATX Full Tower Case Power Supply Cooler Master V W PLUS Gold Certified ATX V EPS V Power Supply Optical Drive Lite-On IHAS - DVD CD Writer Thermal Compound Antec Formula Nano Diamond g Thermal Paste Operating System Windows Eight bit Cost Is this setup good Please don t post any upgrades because my budget was to so im already over If anything is overkill let me know Thanks for the help nbsp
WOW, thats a nice build!
Although I gotta ask, what is it you do that would require the 4x8GB memory modules? Unless you are doing something spectacular, 2x8GB would probably be more than you need for a very long time.
Since you have chosen a mSATA SSD, I take it you have done your homework and know the motherboard supports mSATA. I had to double check to make sure you wasn't making a mistake. As for the 1 SSD option instead of 1SSD/1HDD, you can make that decision at a later date if you so choose.
My cpu taking much time to turn on, when I switch on the power,it takng nearly 30-40 seconds to turn on cpu led lights and whole cpu itself!
can anyone help me in ths regards.
What is the make and model of this "slow" computer?
I have lost my important and personal data on my SD card. As I tried to connect it to my Mac, it was asked to format, and I pressed it. So, now, all the data is lost. But, I know the lost data after formatting is not actually erased. It is still there and becomes inaccessible. Therefore, could you help me get it back? Any idea could be appreciated. Thank you!
Hmm as far as my knowledge goes, you cannot, I think mostly every website that offers to 'recover' any type of format is a virus in waiting, as for software goes you may wish for someone with more knowledge, the only safe way I can think of is expensive.
Data recovery is not always 100% so take into account you may pay and not get anything in return,
http://stellardatarecovery.co.uk/ Unsure they do SD or not, but it's more likely best to find one yourself so I cannot be held liable!
Hope this helped!
Case - Lancool PC-K Case Power supply - XFX Pro W Core Edition V Cooling Fans - Cooler Master Hyper Plus Cooler Motherboard - Asus P H -MX Builder First Time Advice Need USB Socket VGA DVI Channel Audio mATX Processor CPU - Intel Core i P GHz Socket MB Ram - Crucial First Time Builder Need Advice Ballistix Sports GB x GB DDR MHz PC - U Video card - EVGA GeForce GTX SC GB GDDR Harddrive - Seagate Barracuda TB RPM ST DM Disk drive - Pioneer DVR- BK Hi I am a first time builder who lives in the UK and would like to build a gaming PC that is preferably with in the price range of to I would like to know if the products listed above are compatible and whether I should consider buying other products which are cheaper and better in terms of performance I would also like know if this is a decent build in running most game today in the highest quality as well as how long it will last before I need to buy newer better parts nbsp
Everything is compatible.
Nice case and CPU cooler, however the CPU cooler would not really be needed if you don't over-clock. The Boxed CPU comes with an OEM CPU cooler that is fine with non-over-clock conditions.
Are you planning on over-clocking? If so the motherboard and CPU are not really designed for over-clocking.
Objects available : Laptop with windows vista(32 Bit Home Basic SP 2)
: Tata Docomo internet data card
PROBLEM : I connect to internet via data card on my laptop. I want to share this internet connection on my iPAD which I am not able to do.
After connection to internet via data card on laptop, I created a wireless ad hoc connection. Which creating ad hoc connection I do not get the option of " SHARE INTERNET".
On iPAD this network is detected and the iPAD connects to this network.
On Laptop it is then shown this way :-
MY LAPTOP -------------------- MULTIPLE NETWORKS ----------------- INTERNET
But still the internet on iPAD doesnt get activated.
Plz help. ...
GOT THE SOLUTION.!!!
After extensive search on the internet, I got 1 solution. Unchecking the option "ALLOW SHARE OF CONNECTION" in properties of the data card internet. Then setting up of an ad hoc connection, will get the option "SHARE INTERNET CONNECTION".
I have a WD External SATA 1TB Hard Drive that has ~700 GB of family memories/movies/documents/etc and it is now connected to Windows 8.
The original housing it came in was unsurprisingly cheap and the connection piece broke. I re soldered it on and the connection was made but the drive threw nothing but errors. I figured I messed it up so bought an external case and assembled it. Now however, the drive does not show up under my computer but does in Disk Management.
Disk Management claims that the HD has the full TB unallocated and not initialized. I don't want to initialize it because I don't want to lose the information I have on it. Any idea on how to get this working?
I have downloaded and used the Data Lifeguard available at WD and the External has passed the Quick Test so drivers are all there and working.
Umm, I would try first connecting it back to whatever PC version you were using before (Assuming Windows 7) and seeing whats up.
If that does not work, try messing with the connection that you re-soldered and making sure its all done fully correctly, something may have gotten crossed.
Ok so I m a first time builder here with a budget of I use my computer for web browsing with a million tabs so 1st time build, lost :P open I admit lol music recording editing normally about or so tracks only lite gaming minecraft with heavy skin packs and will be doing small video editing like boxes of video in one frame and watching movies both blue-ray and the occasional live stream I use Windows themes skins on my computer and have more rainmeter gadgets than I probably need I ve come across some good barebones kits for but they lack a few things which I may not even need lol I definitely need a wireless card no cable running to my room and obviously a blue-ray player I don t burn music or movies onto CDs if I need to I already have a burner I m looking for a minimum GB of RAM Do I really need an SSD My mind keeps saying quot YES quot but my wallet says quot nope not in the budget quot I do already have a TB drive for storage I would just like an SSD for the OS and programs But if that s not feasible I have no problem with a small HDD So what am I looking for that will meet the needs of my use and budget Mobo CPU GPU RAM PSU Case SSD-or-HDD Blue-Ray Player Wifi Card and after market cooler heatsink everyone always says stay away from OEM coolers go after market So if I m not all that crazy and this is feasible I appreciate any and all help and hope to learn a good bit in the process please feel free to teach so I actually learn something I m not loyal to any brand so I don t care about any of that at least not yet Thanks nbsp
(everyone always says stay away from OEM coolers...go after market)Click to expand...
I would only make that recommendation based on whether the person will be overclocking. Neither Intel or AMD will package their CPU with a cooler that not sufficiently adequate under non-overclock conditions.
Have you assembled a parts list or are awaiting feedback first?
So I am trying to build my own computer case for gaming and home use and still want to use my micro-atx motherboard running with amd 64 athlon x2. Question is what is the best recommendation for a computer chassis, memory upgrade, and psu. Also, should I upgrade my processor to, lets say, a amd phenom II x3? Thanks for any replies
You should do anything until you tell us what you need (OS? Monitor?), your monitor size, games you're gonna play, budget, location.
Either way, not much point to pump money into your old system.
So I have only bought regular computers and I was thinking about buying a gaming laptop, or possibly pc, but I dont know what I need. Some help would be very appreciated. Here is what I want the computer for, now dont laugh at me, or at least just chuckle to yourself while calling me a noob, or whatever the lingo is. But I wanted the computer for my Sims games. Hey, you guys have your minecraft or whatever, I have my Sims, leave me alone. So what kind of computer would I need. Cuz I will eventually upload all expansion packs and I am tired of my regular pc running slow. So please help, and if buying a regular laptop with some kind of memory can suffice than please let me know.
Well, Sims games arent demanding at all. They use pretty ancient engines. You dont even need a GPU for that, you can easily get a PC with integrated graphics for about 500 USD. What is your budget? You want a laptop right? And is the Sims all you will be playing?
Up until days ago my laptop was working fine Then all of a sudden while transferring files to external hard drive it just froze and that was pretty much the end of it It got to the point where this would keep happening and I know help recovery Need data with it s not good but I ended up just forcing the computer to shut down by pressing the power Need help with data recovery button then the computer wouldn t even boot up I ended up just buying a new laptop btw the external hard drive from my old laptop works fine I bought a hard drive enclosure for the old hard drive from my old laptop to recover some data the hard drive shows up as LOCAL DISK on the new computer but it freezes up when I try to access it everything else on the new computer working fine and can t even eject it Whenever I try to do something with the old hard drive it just takes a long time or there s no response or it freezes It even prevents my new computer from booting up or shutting down Is it hopeless to retrieve some data from this drive or is it a lost cause Really appreciate any help Thanks nbsp
The drive may have some sort of malware on it. Download Malwarebytes Anti-Malware, and run a custom scan on the drive. If it comes up clear, it may have errors. We will proceed from there after you have completed the scan. Best of luck.
Hello Today my WD Raptor decided to die all of a sudden while using my computer it just froze up blue screen on me and reboot then keeps looping I do regular backups so I have quot most quot of my data on my external drives but this happened so suddenly that I have some recent excel files and pictures that are not on my last backup and I would really like to recover those files I run DFT and result was some sector logical failure I remove the drive installed on another computer and I can see the drive but every time I double click on it I got the message quot You need to format the disk in drive D before you can use died, data Raptor need recovery WD it quot and sometimes when I click on the drive I got quot D is not accessible Data error cyclic redundancy check quot Disk management sees the drive as quot Active Primary Partition quot but still can t open it from there I haven t format it yet but I wonder if there is a way to access it somehow to retrieve the data or the only way is WD Raptor died, need data recovery to format it to access it and then use some software to recover the files Suggestions opinions what do you guys think what options do I have Thanks in advance for all the input nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/wd-raptor-died-need-data-recovery.191410/
Hi I have a TOSHIBA GB I had much important project data on it and I did the most terrible mistake of my life not to back it up when all my other HDD datas are double if not triple backedup stick data recovery Memory It was working fine till late night till in the morning when I plugged it on my computer it told me it Memory stick data recovery sholud be formatted first The drive letter doesn t show up on My computer nor in My devices I tried using the EaseUS Data Recovery sample version but it too cant detect the drive I went through the flash drive data recovery procedure in this forum but I do not understand that if I format the drive the data will be gone Again I do not have a backup to copy it again I dont want to recover using the drive but just the data Please please please help someone if such a thing is possible Its almost months of my hard work An update Now its appearing as Removable disk on my computer and if I click on it its saying insert disk into drive F If I try exploring it the format option is appearing Please please help I need the data nbsp
Greetings guys, hope you are doing fine.
I'm using ExpatShield to play SCII ( long story ). Anyway, I tried today to download an arcade map from within SC ( 3 MB ) but it was extremly slow. I alt-tab and opened Resource Monitor and here is what I found >> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/33/expatbug.jpg/
As you can see ExpatShield is downloading at near 70 KB/sec but is not passing data to the original application ( SC in this case ). It actually downloaded more than 70 MB and the map was still at 2%. Moreover, when I exited SCII, Expat kept downloading.
It usually works fine except for this case.
Thanks in advance.
Hey all I m looking for advice and possibly tips and answers on whether or not my current build will work first $1k rig, time builder gaming I ve done some scouting through Newegg and looking at advice tips through the net on how to build a gaming rig and looking at pricings and $1k gaming rig, first time builder what to look for but I want to make sure it ll work most of all and whether or not this is a good buy for k spending limit It s currently $1k gaming rig, first time builder priced at around but with rebates and such I don t know if wishlist accounts for rebates and things like that it could be around altogether After reading the how to post new building threads I ve decided to add in this info I have no bought any items yet I live in Georgia US I m using this computer mainly for gaming I only have a laptop at the moment and most likely won t be using any parts from it for my new computer I m looking to keep this rig under dollars and do not have a monitor keyboard mouse or operating system yet But I m currently looking operating systems at the moment and monitors I doubt a keyboard and mouse will be that bad for cheapo s until I get more money And I don t know if I will need any after market cooling as I m pretty noob new to a lot of this stuff Sidenote I ve been told I could scrap my optical drive for a higher priced Graphics card but I heard the was a decent buy for it s price I ll see what you guys have to say but I would like to be able to watch dvd s and such and install some of the CD d PC games I already currently own Thanks My Wishlist Graphics Card http www newegg com Product Product aspx Item N E Radeon G CPU http www newegg com Product Product aspx Item N E Intel i - ivy bridge gz gz turbo boosted MoBo http www newegg com Product Product aspx Item N E ASRock Z Storage http www newegg com Product Product aspx Item N E Corsair GB SATA III SSD http www newegg com Product Product aspx Item N E Western Digital GB Power Supply http www newegg com Product Product aspx Item N E Corsair TX series Computer Case http www newegg com Product Product aspx Item N E Rosewell Challenger-U Memory http www newegg com Product Product aspx Item N E G SKILL Sniper Series GB x GB -Pin DDR SDRAM DDR PC Optical Drive http www newegg com Product Product aspx Item N E LG Black Blu-Ray TOTAL PRICE I would have posted my actual wishlist but I have no idea how to do it through Newegg nbsp
Scrapping the optical drive for a better GPU is an option. However, what you already have looks solid. I don't see a Monitor,Keyboard/Mouse or OS included in this. Are they on a separate budget?
If you were to scrap the Optical drive, you could move up to something like this.
I've got a home network with two wireless access points (routers with WiFi). One router is the main unit for Verizon FIOS. this is the DHCP server. The other router is upstairs, and performs only to allow an iPod or Kindle to be connected upstairs (have trouble getting a good signal from the main router downstairs). This router has no WAN connection, so is really just a switch with WiFi.
So, I'm starting to get security conscious, and wondering exactly what data on the network is getting out on the WiFi.
Does everything going through the router with the WiFi go out on the radio, or is only data being sent to/from connected WiFi devices available over the air?
Thanks for your help
Without any devices connected, the only thing "going out" is a base signal (ie the rf channel) and the SSID.
When a connection is made, the data traversing the WiFi is dependent upon what specific services are being used by the connected device; eg for a device with a browser, that would include the HTTP request and the subsequent reply.
For security, we activate one of the encryption protocols so that someone nearby with RF tools may see the signals but not be able to 'read' them - - just like SSL protects a browser session.
First post and here is the story I have an old broken XP laptop A friend loaned me his IDE SATA to USB cable so I could get some files off the hard drive I proceeded from computer another one Unable data to get to to connect and download what I wanted o my Acer windows computer I put everything into a folder I can open that folder and read the Docs and Unable to get data from one computer to another look at the pictures no problem I copied the info to an external HDD I tried to download it to my wife s laptop but it is not there I tried to load the same info on to a Cruzer Flash drive and transfer it the same way The folder is empty is what I get when I click on the flash drive letter If I put it back into my computer I can read it If I click properties of the drive it shows the space being used I also tried to put the info onto a laptop at work same thing If I add an unrelated file onto the flash drive it works normally These files are possessed Help I guess you can t edit the title nbsp
It could be because you could have "hide hidden files/folders" checked. Just a guess, good luck.
I have two Western Digital Tb HD making data Problem copy connection to adhoc HD s which I use for archiving and are carbon copies of Problem making adhoc HD connection to copy data each other and my third installed OS HD They are both external to my computer in fact one came as part of a WD My Book Previously I had my Asus P Q Deluxe fitted and I could just plug the two HD s into the PSU with a spare power cable and connect them to the mobo with a couple of Sata cables and copy any data from the main installed HD or replicate data between them No problem However due to RAM issues I have swapped the mobo out for my Asus P W DH Deluxe I just assumed I could go ahead with my adhoc method of plug and play HD connectivity but after shutting down my desktop wiring in just one archive HD and powering up the computer went a Problem making adhoc HD connection to copy data bit funny All the icons had shifted over to my TV display next to my desktop while my monitor s desktop pic got squashed vertically with vertical letterbox lines left and right pretty much as though I had been messing with the AMD Problem making adhoc HD connection to copy data Catalyst Control Centre Any ideas why plugging in an HD or two into the spare Sata EZ Raid sockets would cause this Why didn t it behave like P Q e g plug amp play style or as if I had simply plugged in the HD via the USB One thing I forgot to check was if the HD showed up in My Computer while the icons and what not were on the TV screen Tom nbsp
Nevermind. I plugged the two archive HD's into the mobo today and all is fine and copying perfectly.
Ok here s the history of the problem I have GB Hard drive quot Samsung sp c quot and I am using it since two years with my old desktop system with this S M A R T error at the startup BIOS TWO YEARS BACK I think there are some bad sectors involved at the last part of the HDD space There were partitions initially I e C D E amp F The problem started with partition #83" attribute "1720-SMART failure failing? drive detects imminent hard failed: ... HDD error F with following issues Always took so long copying files into F System got stuck up when some file s folder s from F drive were opened and then automatic restart That time ran CHKDSK on F drive but in the middle of scanning it always restarted the PC automatically Sometimes system restarted when I was copying some HDD error "1720-SMART hard drive detects imminent failure attribute failed: #83" ... failing? random data in the F partition Whenever this restart thing happened at the start up it displayed that there is no primary hard drive detected Then eventually it came back live after - attempts always I also deleted the Partition F and then recreated the partition but same problems persisted YEAR BACK Due to above issues HDD error "1720-SMART hard drive detects imminent failure attribute failed: #83" ... failing? I left the partition F as it was and used others like C D amp E but an year before the partition E started to do things same way F was doing and at that point F was not accessible with error popping The disk is not formatted Do you want to format it now I formatted the partition F and ran following HDD tools afterwards Partition Table Doctor HDD Regenerator Surface tests for C D E was fine but when it started scanning the HDD somewhere in F partition area these tools messed up with something took so long stuck at sectors for long time without repairing it MONTHS BACK I came to know that there are some serious issues in the HDD sectors inside the last GB part of HDD error "1720-SMART hard drive detects imminent failure attribute failed: #83" ... failing? the hard disk I made partitions C D E F G The G partition was for GB space and I never opened this drive since I created it because this will cause same problem what the F was doing before NOW I don t have much issues with C D E amp F while operating them Don t use F too much to be at safe side But I feel that HDD is very slow overall and and every time I turn this system on I get quot -SMART Hard Drive detects imminent failure Attribute failed quot Wondering if it could be fixed or not and I know and understand that my hard disk was failing ever since and most of you guys will advice to back up and purchase a new one but I am still on to fix this one and as if there s any way to get it right up Many Thanks nbsp
The fundamentals still apply:
for every partition ?X?
chkdsk ?X? /f /r
The /R will remap bad sectors in an effort to avoid future I/o errors.
a} fix all partitions
b} get the SMART data and save it for reverence (it will not be reset to zero by chkdsk)
c} view the SMART data every day
d} look for increasing statistics
PLAN on getting a new HDD asap
I just built a new PC and installed a Sapphire RADEON HD 6670 1gb DDR5...
I want to run two monitors (extended) using the DVI and HDMI ports. I just get a black screen on the second monitor??
Which operating system are you using?
Do you have an option to extend desktop in Windows display properties?
If you are using Windows 7 try pressing "Windows Key + P" at the same time. This should bring up a projection menu with 4 options.
Hey all, been a while since I last built a system, and never done one with an SSD.
I'm assuming the SSD is basically my C drive where I will install the OS, plus any games I want to run quickly, then everything else on my D drive (just a regular HDD).
Sound about right?
Right. and don't forget to turn off some things like defragmentation, indexing and prefetch in windows. those are designed for hdd.
My computer running Windows Ultimate -bit can no longer access my Western Digital Caviar quot Black quot TB hard drive that s connected but I suspect my data to still be in there so I wonder what data recorvery tools people have used and recommend This is one of the additional drives to my operating system C drive It has been formatted as NTFS and been working fine for several months until with recommendations Data format, from drive please lost recovery software a week ago Now it appears as the E drive on Data recovery from drive with lost format, software recommendations please My Computer as originally configured but the volume label is now blank I used to have that named as quot Media quot When I double-click on it to Data recovery from drive with lost format, software recommendations please enter the drive I get the Data recovery from drive with lost format, software recommendations please error message quot E is not accessible The parameter is incorrect quot In Computer Management -- gt Storage -- gt Disk Management the drive appears but it s File System is now indicated as RAW rather than NTFS I have tried using Active Partition Recovery and that successfully lists my drive with the original label name quot Media quot and as NTFS and also lists the folders located at the root of the drive which is why I suspect my data to still be in there and recoverable However when I use this tool to do a full scan of my disk it freezes after scanning MB There are tools out there with varying reliability so whch ones do people here recommend another tool I trired I forget its name was scanning my disk but prediced days to go over the entire TB so that s out of the question I have been told to use a tool that can recover files onto a separate disk rather then try to repair the original disk and risk losing more of the original data Any advice would be greatly appreciated Thanks nbsp
Oh crap. Something like this happened recently to me when I had backed up some data to an USB thumb drive. It worked fine for awhile, then some weeks later, my PC just couldn't read it anymore (kept saying "disk in drive needs to be reformatted/etc"...and the properties for the drive also showed it as RAW format instead of FAT32 like it would have been usually).
I think the issue is drive corruption, which seems to be fairly common with external devices like USB drives, but odd in the case of an internal drive. The remedy for me was to try to access it from a different system, which was easy since being a USB stick I could try it elsewhere easily. If you can use another system to access the drive, preferably a Linux/Ubuntu based one; it is likely your best bet to recoup the data before its lost permanently. An external HDD kit would be ideal, and they are quite cheap also.
Hope this helps!
On a Dell desktop w/ XP SP3, the printer (wired Lexmark 1200) will print a page from the browser while online. The printer will not function in Word or Notepad. Any suggestions?
What are the setting differences between browser and Word? Page size, scaling etc. Try from Notepad.
Okay A data? Can I my recover few months ago I had a major shut down on my previous Laptop it turned to mush it slowly got worse Can I recover my data? and worse and the monitor went blue screened about times an hour and was just overused in fairness I got it second hand and it was already years old but they had it fixed up before giving it to me new pieces inside the computer extra ram and settings etc etc Anyway I ve given up on getting it fixed at this point in time I Can I recover my data? do have a couple things on there saved to the Desktop and other Folders such as Pictures n Such and other things I needed for work I managed to remake most of it and then silly me only had them on a USB I d been using about a month and it stopped working plug it into the computer and Nada the Charger Port is even gone and I can t get it turned on for a minute if I move the laptop even an inch the screen shows sections of rectangles all along it in funky colors until it just comes up black dark black as if the computer s off So here s my question finally is there a way for me to get my files from that computer and hook it up to my new one as like a storage device so I can get my stuff off of it and hopefully not any viruses lt lt quot Oh and as a side question Is there any way to get my files off my USB that just stopped working as I lost about of my work Again I don t need it urgently or anything it would just be nice to have it all back nbsp
If a USB stick stops working, it's pretty much bye-bye. There are of course some things you can do, but I'm not going to bother explaining them as I don't believe it will help you.
As for your laptop hard drive: the question is, is it SATA? This is the power/data connectors on the harddrive.
It could be as simple as pulling out the HDD, and plugging it into another desktop computer. Or, into a USB HDD dock.
So I just did some upgrades on my PC and now it s time for the video card I went from a Gigabyte mobo gb ram and an E to an ASrock Extreme mobo for a Upgrading my time PC, GPU new gb ram and a k I m not seeing much difference for what I use the computer for which is Upgrading my PC, time for a new GPU mainly some gaming and just browsing the internet I know the k was overkill and I wish I would have gone with the k and used the extra for something else My question is which card to get I play games like WOW Skyrim Assassins Creed Crysis and Mass Effect I don t game a ton and don t do any video editing other than maybe converting a movie to a different format or burning a DVD I d like to stay as cheap as possible so I m leaning towards the It s sometimes cheaper than the ti I m kinda stuck between these two models and can t really see a difference other than the stock OC Is there a big difference between different brands other than like warranty or cooling Is the ti that much better or would it just be overkill I m using an HIS currently if that helps Thanks in advance and sorry for the wall of text nbsp
If you don't do much gaming and no video editing then the 7870 and 660ti are waaaaaay too overkill.
take a look at the HD7770 instead.
Building a new pc Its been since since I did a brand new overhaul Things to consider -I have a tj and a mountainmods ascension case capable of holding quad rads on front lower panel -Yes I will liquid cool the monster -I have an Areca raid controller capable of running time! Long time PC coming... buildin' sata II drives -I have x GB vertex first generation ssds -I have quot asus led monitors two of them but I will be picking up a quot high res monitor soon -I have a black widow ultimate keyboard -Yes I play mmo s and no I m not saying which ones -I have a watt gold silverstone psu -I know what I currently have is Long time coming... PC buildin' time! good but I plan to piece the machine off and sell give away most of it at least the things that aren t listed above -I leave for the USAF in a month Budget is usd Any questions just ask Have at it Excited to see what contractions my fellow techies come up with nbsp
You don't need anywhere near $4-5k to play MMOs even on a 2560x1600 screen. The most demanding games are FPSs and some RPGs. If you're doing a lot of CPU intensive work then go with an X79/3930K build but otherwise a 3570K will be fine, and you'll have a lot of your budget left over.
Hello everyone I m upgrading my CPU and motherboard and by extension RAM since it s DDR and I want some input on whether or not I should spend some cash and go with a Sandy Bridge or Ivy Bridge system or a Phenom II or Bulldozer one Obviously the Phenom II system would work out cheaper and I like cheaper But I m wondering if that need a long suggestions some Upgrading please after time; very by not opting for the latest-and-greatest Intel chip would I be looking at an upgrade sooner rather than later down the road Any and all suggestions and or input are welcomed my location and current system specs are in my signature so please keep those in mind when suggesting anything I d prefer buying locally since most of the popular components are easily available via retail but I wouldn t mind ordering online if the price is right although with shipping rates the way they are I can t imagine that happening anytime soon nbsp
Honestly speaking, I find that the choice of CPU, whether AMD or Intel, should not warrant that you look at an upgrade too soon. I have been using the Phenom II X3 720 for three years now and still it performs really well for most purposes.
Now benchmarks do reveal that the Intel (Ivy Bridge / Sandy Bridge) are far superior to their AMD (Bulldozer / Phenom II) counterparts. Consider the i5 3570k (the CPU you incidentally suggested for my new build). It costs around $229 which is 20% more as compared to AMD's flagship FX 8150. Although the AMD has 8 cores it is outperformed by the quad core Intel by around 40% (and above) in most benchmarks. In games, the 3570K stock outperforms an overclocked 8150 by approx. 30%.
The above, however, are just numbers. For most everyday tasks you should be fine with either CPU. If gaming at 1920x1080, your GPU will likely be the most limiting factor as neither CPU will cause any bottlenecks.
My opnion is that you finalise your budget. If you see that the Ivy Bridge can be comfortably accomodated go for it. Else I'm sure that the AMD will not disappoint.
One thing of note is that the Phenom IIs have generally benched better than the Bulldozers. That makes me sad as expectations from AMD were much higher.
I have a Crucial 128GB SSD as my OS/Program drive, and a 750GB WD Black drive which contains all my music/movies/photos etc. My issue is that it goes offline or into like a stand-by mode after a certain period of time. So lets say I go to open itunes, it will take 8-10 seconds for it to access the drive and load up the program with my music. It's definitely going into some stand-by type mode, because I can hear when it goes into it, and when it comes out of it when I open a program or file that happens to be on the HDD. So I wanted to know if there is a way to disable that so my access is instant. Any info appreciated, thank you.
Could it be the "Turn off hard disk after" setting in the Power Options?
I have two Seagate 7200 hard drives than are no longer recognized by the desktop or by my laptop via a usb/EDI/SATA adapter. These were my backup drives and have all my photos, itunes, and doc files. Rather than speed $1,000 to have the files extracted by a recovery firm I wondered if its possible to remove the storage media from one drive and install it in a new drive box. Say buy a $60 internal drive open it up and remove the disks, take the disks out of the non-working drive and install it in the new internal drive. Is that even possible? Would the circuitry on the new drive even recognize the replacement disks? Would the drives need to be the same GB? Inquiring minds want to know!
I've heard of people buying the exact same drive (needs to be exact so the PCB is the same) and then swapping those out. I've never heard of people removing the platters and putting in a new drive - I think that would be highly risky if not impossible. Try to find a working drive with the same PCB on ebay, then swap the boards.
My computer (Compaq Presario 2500, win xp-sp3) experiences some serious speed problems.
It delays at boot time. It takes about 20 - 30 minutes to complete it. Lunching of applications is tedious, sometimes 5-10 minutes, and execution and switching between applications is really slow. Process Explorer indicates that IRQs and DPCs consume up to 90%of cpu time.
At arbitrary times it crushes just freezing or with a screen that says that it has to shutdown because of a serious problem.
Please help me to resolve these problems.
Thank you in advance.
Assuming you have scanned for malware, I would suggest a system file scan, using "sfc /scannow" &/or "chkdsk" from a command prompt, if no good a repair install of xp, if you can get hold of a disk. Otherwise, might be looking at hardware failure (could try reseating RAM too?)
Hope this helps.
Well I ve just spent the past hour or so trying to chill out and relaxing by trying to play some Call of Duty on my laptop computer quot Trying quot is my key word here because for whatever reason or reasons the darn thing in game turns My without warning! off, itself laptop is turning itself off without warning I get about - maps into the game which is approx something like - minutes in and the thing shuts itself off I know for a fact this isn t an issue that my laptop s hardware is bellow the requirements for the game Toshiba x- dual SLi Nvidia GeForce M GT s MB s each Intel Core Duo T My laptop turns itself off, without warning! G s GB s of system RAM Realtek High Definition My laptop turns itself off, without warning! Audio Sound Card Windows Vista My laptop turns itself off, without warning! Ultimate -bit I m well over in almost every area the games requirements but even with that the game or the computer shuts itself off I m thinking this could be heat related I ve got the thing resting atop a nice dual fan laptop cooling tray I did notice possibly one of it s exhaust vents might have been blocked a little by a printer I had stationed pretty close to it I moved the laptop away from that printer about another - inches or so and try d the game again same thing about minutes into it the thing shut itself off Upon firing it up again I ran the stock Toshiba diagnostic tool no problems detected I then checked the hard drive no problems found I then ran CCleaner and checked the registry no errors found Lastly I went into the Administration control panel to view the event log and see if Widows was reporting anything in there is wasn t no sudden crashing type errors were reported This baffles me no errors anywhere and it keeps turning itself off whenever playing Call of Duty Maybe it s my setup I do have my laptop via HDMI hooked up to my Samsung inch LCD television with the television set to quot game mode quot maybe there s something screw y with the setup The computer behaves when in normal operations web browsing You Tube watching VLC media playback Windows Media Player playback it all checks out fine Anyone got any recommendations or thoughts nbsp
Sounds like it could be overheating. The best thing to do will be to load up something like CPUID's HWMonitor, fire it up and check the temps whilst gaming.
This is my first gaming build and spent all day on this. Is it looking solid ? or are there bottlenecks ? somewhere I can do better within same price range ?. and Please reccomend me a graphics card.
What I got ready to buy:
COOLER MASTER HAF 912 RC-912-KKN1 Black SECC/ ABS Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX650 V2 650W ATX12V v2.31/ EPS12V v2.92 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC High Performance Power ...
HDD -SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Mother Board - Intel BOXDH77KC LGA 1155 Intel H77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
RAM - Patriot Intel Extreme Master, Limited Edition 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 15000) Desktop Memory Model ...
CPU - Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 3000 ...
Graphics Card - Recommend ?
Is there any reason why you are matching the K version CPU with H77 motherboard chipset?
From what I hear the H77 is not very overclock friendly which is what the CPU K version represents.
I would consider the nVidia GTX 660 Ti or wait a few weeks for the GTX 660 to be released. If the GTX 660 is too high a price the GTX 650 should release about the same time as the GTX 660. I'm not strickly nVidia, it has been awhile since I looked at AMD's offerings.
I m just dipping a toe into multi-monitor use and have some questions I using monitors time multiple First have a inch and a inch monitor at the moment have another and to use if need be later I have a ATI card I have both monitors plugged into the video card I ve noticed when I extend the desktop to both screens I have some quot flickering quot on the second inch monitor Almost like its trying to adjust itself to something automatically It only flickers when I scroll the mouse wheel up and down First time using multiple monitors a page or move a window around etc Seems to happen when one screen has a browser at full screen and something might be leaking over to the other screen not sure if I can explain it better than that When I create an eyefinity group even though the monitors are different I see no flickering at all all is well Just wondering if this is some setting on the smaller monitor I need to look into Its a Dell FPV ALSO I am assuming this videocard with two monitors on it may take a performance hit if I use it while gaming For example have the inch be the gamer monitor and have the inch showing the desktop with a browser window or teamspeak on it Also I m looking through my parts here and I have some older video cards I may look into adding one just for the second monitor on the desktop Thoughts nbsp
im no expert but it could be your refresh rate on the second monitor is different from the first so that could be it,
1.go to control panel under appearance and personalization click adjust screen resolution
2.click the monitor you want to change
3.click advanced setting and monitor tab and change the refresh rate
and your gaming fps should not go down through the multi display set up unless your doing something graphic/cpu demanding task
So I built my Rig around a month ago, and since then I have saved up $400 AUD.
I've been doing quite a bit of gaming and video editing and come to the conclusion that it could use a bit more 'kick'.
So- what do you guys think?
I'd rather not spend all $400, so I've been looking at the HD7850, or 7870 if I should stretch my budget.
Here are my current specs:
CPU: AMD FX-6100 (3.3GHz-6core)
Cooler: CM TX3 EVO (push-pull config)
GPU: GTX 550ti
MoBo: ASRock 970 Extreme 4
HDD: 500GB seagate
Memory: 8GB (2x4GB-1333MHz) Patriot Gamer2
Monitor: 22" Viewsonic (1920x1080- not too happy about this. If I look closely, text is blurred over 2-3 pixels, and it does not look as clear as my 1366x768 laptop. Yes, I have turned on cleartype text and all that. it does not help)
Any input is appreciated!
If you can wait a few more weeks the GTX 660 Ti is nearing release. That is unless you want to jump fence and go with AMD this time around. I think the release date is set for August 16th. Waiting would allow you to compare price/performance between nVidia and AMD.
I have Windows XP SP that would not boot to the desktop on a Normal boot The system has SATA HDD amp SATA DVD-RW partition HDD XP -- Windows lost data problem on Red SATA ports on the Motherboard amp Black SATA port on the mother board I apologize but sadly I do NOT remember if the DVD drive or one of the HDD was in the Black SATA port I m not REALLY sure I Windows XP HDD partition problem -- data lost understand the difference but The system would boot up almost to the desktop so I was able to boot up in Safe Mode Once I could get to the desktop I looked at the System log in Event Viewer amp it showed that the controller was reporting drive errors on Hard Drive NOT the boot drive It was happening so much that it was virtually filling the Event Viewer amp making it Windows XP HDD partition problem -- data lost hard to see anything else in there amp kept the system from being able to boot to the desktop It never made it to where it said Windows was loading my personal settings I have never seen a NON-boot drive keep an XP system from being able to boot up Once I made it to where I could see the Event Viewer messages I shut the system down amp disconnected the quot bad quot drive amp restarted the system It then booted up fine but when I looked at the event Viewer is STILL showed Hard Drive errors I thought that it might be a bad cable so I shut the system down again amp connected the SATA cable that was connect to Hard Drive amp moved exchanged it with the one on Hard Drive amp booted the system I looked in the Event Viewer amp it was STILL showing Hard Drive errors so I opened quot Disk Management quot amp it thought the hard drive that I took out was still in the system At this point it was actually in another room Disk Management showed hard drive errors so I right clicked on the drive that wasn t even IN the system amp chose quot Delete Partition quot amp that made the drive errors stop Remember THAT hard drive was NOT in the system at the time I rebooted the system amp looked in Drive Management amp it reported quot Drive Missing quot When I looked in Event Viewer it STILL had Hard Drive errors NOW I suspect that this is REALLY a power issue amp NOT a hard drive or controller problem My power supply has leads Has SATA type amp IDE type type power connector Has SATA type Connectors Has IDE type amp Floppy type power connector I shut the system down again put the quot bad quot drive in the system disconnected all of the SATA cables amp power cables Plugged the HDD in the Red SATA ports left the DVD uplugged moved the power cables Of course I figured that since there where SATA power connectors on one lead it would be OK to plug in hard drives Keep in mind that this system has been running this way for years with showing this problem although now that I think about it the boot drive has failed times BUT they were all Seagate GB drives amp I have had those fail in several other systems FAR more often than the Hitatchi or Samsung However the WD drives have failed just as often as the Seagate Since I now suspected that this was a power problem I decided to plug in only of the HDD in the SATA power lead amp plugged the remaining HDD in the SATA power lead that the DVD was using amp I left the DVD disconnected I booted the system NOW my question Problem The drive that I took out of the system thinking it was bad now has NO partition When I deleted the partition on the HDD even though it was NOT in the system at the time that partitions are gone I have not done anything else to the drive since I found this problem so does ANYONE have ANY idea what I might be able to do to bring the partitions amp my TB of data back In UNIX there are format commands commands that can bring back files because they re not REALLY gone the allocation table is just not looking in the right place or something I realize this was a L-O-N-G amp Boring story but I had to go through the whole thing to explain the problem amp hopefully get a solution Thank you ... Read morehttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/windows-xp-hdd-partition-problem-data-lost.183526/
I dont know whats wrong these are my specs:
Asus Xonar 5.1
Seasonic Platinum 860 watt power supply
Corsair Vengeance 16Gb 4 x 4Gb
Intel I5 3570k ivy bridge 3.4Ghz (3.8Ghz with turbo boost)
EVGA GTX 670 FTW 2Gb vram
Seagate Barracuda 500Gb Hdd
Lite-on Bd Drive
At first I forgot to plug in the 12v cpu power, but I fixed that. This morning I noticed I put the power buttons cable into the wrong spot because I was following the cases color coding instead of the motherboards. But now I have no idea whats wrong. I have one idea, the screws I used to screw the motherboard in are really long and they stick out of the motherboard. Could that be the problem? Can someone help me I REALLY want to use this pc. I have been waiting for 5 years.
Please tell us what the problem is. What is the computer doing or not doing?
Hi guys So I is bootup. Where my keyboard? time First built up my computer Where is my keyboard? First time bootup. for the first time with the following components Antec Sonata Elite Black mm cold rolled steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case Western Digital Caviar Black WD FAEX TB RPM SATA Gb s quot Internal Hard Intel Core i - K Sandy Bridge GHz GHz Turbo Boost LGA W Quad-Core Corsair Vengeance Blue GB DDR SDRAM Dual Channel Memory Kit OCZ ModXStream Pro W Modular High Performance Power Supply compatible with Intel Sandy Bridge Core i i i and AMD Phenom Sapphire AMD Radeon HD GB PCI-E Video Card L ASUS Intel Z ATX DDR LGA Motherboard P Z -V I put everything in place and turn on the power but nothing happens Nothing shows up on my Where is my keyboard? First time bootup. monitor in the beginning and there are no beeps Then I realize that my case doesn Where is my keyboard? First time bootup. t have internal speakers but no biggie I figure its going to be ok I check the connections on everything and reinstall everything to make sure all of the components are connected alright Then I reconnect the VGA plug into the one not on the motherboard but on the GPU All the fans are running and I can feel everything else running as well I restart The monitor now boots up and I see option to press enter and F Both of them are more or less for BIOS but it detects USB keyboard but it does detect the mouth I press the keys on my keyboard for the corresponding options but nothing happens Help Do I need to buy a USB keyboard nbsp
Perhaps. This sounds like you need to update the USB drivers. I just built a new system and most of my USB 3.0 were not working. I had to update to the latest offerings. You may need a BIOS upgrade as well.
I recently noticed that any sound and/or video starts to stutter at random occasions. It could be when im watching a Youtube video or a video in Media Player Classic, and even when playing a game. Basically all games are unplayable, sound keeps stuttering/cutting and so does the game.
GTX 580 Twin Frozr II
I just tried reinstalling Flash Player, my Codec packs. And it still has this issue, whole pc lags along with sound, mouse moves like laggy slow motion and sound does the same.
If its any help, just when these problems began my svchost became 280mb+ memory usage 24/7
Hi, I am building a computer for the first time. But i would like some tips. I have already chosen some parts:
Cooler Master full tower. Model:RC-932-KKN5-GP Product code on Newegg: N82E16811119160
Cpu: Intel I7 Quad core Sandy Bridge Processor 95W. 3,4 Ghz (3.8 Ghz with Turbo Boost) Model:BX80623I72600 Product code on Newegg:N82E16819115071
I am planning on building a strong pc for high end gaming but i am not sure on what kiond of parts I should choose. First of all are these good parts and would you recommend any other full towers. Also I do not know much about gpu's and would you recommend any of those for me. Also what tools do i need for a pc once i build it other than a screwdriver and do you have any tips for building them? Thanks in advanced.
Knowing your budget and location (I presume US since you mentioned Newegg) would be excellent.
Do you want a silent-and-sleek build? or a more in-your-face gaming rig?
How much storage do you think you'll need? there's no point in adding a 3TB HDD if you'll never fill it.
Do you need a display to go with your new build? how about other accessories?
Will you also be using your PC on workstation tasks such as media encoding, 3D modelling, image editing?
Regarding your suggestions, the Cooler Master HAF 932 is a very good case, but a bit on the expensive side (depends on your budget).
Here are some alternatives:
- you might like this one.
- this one
- or this one
It all depends if you demand excellent cooling or quiet computing.
The i7 2600 is a powerful CPU, but expensive and not exactly the best one Intel has.
Depending on your budget, you might want a Sandy Bridge-E CPU (supports quad-channel RAM) which will offer the best performance you can get or a Sandy Bridge i5 2500K which offers the best bang for the buck atm.
We TechSpotters know quite a bit about GPUs and will help you choose the one that suits your needs. :grinthumb
But we really need to know your budget.
This is a very good and comprehensive up-to-date guide to assembling a modern PC.
PS: TechSpot's buying guide is an excellent read as well.
Hey everyone As you may see I m fairly new here having discovered this site not even a week ago when I started reading up lots and lots of articles and reviews on the current hardware available to build me a solid High-End system that would suit my needs So own system assembling time First my now that I have decided upon the following parts I d be thankful to know if may have missed something important or if there s anything that seems like an utter waste of money Motherboard ASUS Sabertooth Z CPU Intel i - k Graphics Gainward GTX Phantom GB First time assembling my own system If I d anywhere like to have an extra edge it d be the graphics card Additionally I chose the GB model because I do quite some photoshopping video editing and d modelling mapping plus I d like this card to be able to keep up with games for at least - years Memory G Skill DDR MHz x GB Storage OCZ Vertex GB I d like a good SSD to keep my OS and all my programs on GB because on my current PC even the GB partition can t hold all my Steam games and the heavy programs that I have also I intend to have a virtual machine running some time as well so there s no way a GB drive would be enough Storage Seagate Barracuda TB SATA rpm Case CoolerMaster Storm Trooper Power Unit Corsair TX V W Haven t really decided on the optical drive yet will probably go with the one from my current PC at first and get a good one later So if there s any tips or recommendations you could make I d be very thankful to hear them nbsp
I think this will be an excellent system. What HSF will you be using? Hopefully not the retail one with the rest of the machine being so top-notch. It might also be worth going with a pair of 8GB DIMMs instead of 4x4. It should be fairly close in price but give you a better upgrade path in the future.
Does anyone have an opinion on a free, good, and easy to use web site for storage and back up of all my home PC files online?
Carbonite is better in my opinion, especially for small business backup. Hope this helps, take care!
I just finished building my new New boot priority first SSD and build: time Ivy Bridge system and it booted up fine The motherboard is a Gigabyte Z X-UD H I have installed a New build: first time SSD and boot priority Samsung SSD in SATA Port and a Samsung HDD is SATA Port In addition I have installed an Asus DVD drive The Bios recognizes all three drives in the System ATA - Port Information Serial ATA section of New build: first time SSD and boot priority the BIOS BUT in the Boot Options Priorities it recognizes only the Samsung as priority and the Asus DVD as Priority The Samsung hard drive is not listed If I am reading both the manual and other information correctly the Boot Option Priority section will only recognize the primary hard drive In this case it would be my SSD Am I correct and I can go ahead and load Windows or am I missing something Also I am assuming at this point that Windows will assign the SSD as the C drive Will I need to manually assign another letter for the hard drive Thanks nbsp
That is setting the boot priority for each type. You will need to set values for the specific boot types.
Hard Drive/CD/DVD ROM Drive/Floppy Drive/Network Device BBS Priorities
Specifies the boot order for a specific device type, such as hard drives, optical drives, floppy disk drives,
and devices that support Boot from LAN function, etc. Press <Enter> on this item to enter the submenu that
presents the devices of the same type that are connected. This item is present only if at least one device
for this type is installed.Click to expand...
If you look under the Hard Drive listing, you should see both HDD and SSD. Select which one you want to boot. The one you select should show in the priority list for booting to HDD.
I have seagate 1.5TB external HD out of warranty a couple months ago(have it for 2 years). Today, I just checked HD tune, it shows health: warning because of reallocated sector count and spin retry count. So I just do the seatools test: I ran short driver self test pass, short generic: pass. I ran Long generic pass. Could someone tell me that should I worry or do something about it?Thanks for any helps!
You should always worry about your data. I have had hdds pass manufacturers diags and end up failing shortly thereafter, other pass and are fine for years. Keep in mind: the failure rate of hard drives is 100%, it's not a matter of IF it will fail, but WHEN. If it is a primary drive in your computer, then I would purchase a new one and clone the data to the new one. Keep the possible failing drive for non-trivial data, or put it into a system that is not as important/does not need backed up. Hope this gets you going in the right direction. Take care!
Hi all I have been having a problem with my wireless intern network connection I have a sneaky suspicion that my service provider is doing all they can to not have this be there problem Sequence of events -Wireless connection intermittently stops impedance lost, connection Wireless problem...what? working - times a week for the past month -Service provider said it was probably the router -Bought a new router Problem still occurring -Service provider said it Wireless connection lost, impedance problem...what? was my wireless network card Told them that ALL the laptops in the house don t work Okay well then that s not the problem -I go look at the modem Power light-ON Send amp Receive- Blinking Cable Light- OFF -Told me my modem was offline Said it was probably an impedance issue Not sure what that means -Unscrewed the cable Wireless connection lost, impedance problem...what? touched the inside with my finger screwed it back in rebooted computers All computers working -Previous technicians said to unplug the power to both modem and router that works temporarily I m not sure what is going on here and I am no wiz with this stuff but I am now thinking this is either a problem with the cable line OR the cable modem I keep getting different answers from the cable company and they tell me I might have to have someone come out to look into the issue which of course I will be billed for Already paid for a new router How should I deal with this nbsp
The company should be able to supply you with a new modem to attempt a fix. This should not be something you are billed for, generally you should be billed if the issue is caused by something other then their product(the Modem) or the telephone line leading to your house+the demarcation point.. These are all things that the ISP should be covering.
Does this issue happen when you are connected by Ethernet cable? Or JUST wireless?
If this is limted to a wireless issue then I would say that it is an issue that is fixable on your part:
Things to look at: Phone lines(Filters on your phones)
Wireless Phones, Microwaves, any new wireless devices in the house.. Wireless devices can cause interferance with eachother. lots of wireless phones work on the 2.4GHz frequency, the same frequency that 802.11 works on (Wireless) If this fixes the issue, try each phone separtly to narrow down the issue.
To eliminate phones as the issue, you could disconnect all your phones in the house, and test your wireless connection and see if it improves. To make sure it is not due to distance/interferance (Physically) Set up the laptop within 3 feet of the router and see if any issues happen connecting to the router.
Microwaves also work on the 2.4GHz frequency at times and can cause interference when running, but this would be a rare disconnect.
Lastly, if this is simply an issue overall (Wireless and hardwired(ethernet)) then I would suggest connecting to their modem directly, ensuing there is nothing between you and their device. IF there is still an issue, replace the cables between the Modem (The phone cable) as well as the ethernet cable to your computer.. If there are still issues then this is left to the ISP to fix and should not be at your cost.
You pay for their services and this should include the service and repair of their device. Modems tend to break down/overheat and have issues over time, they should be able to supply you with a new one.
I have a 3 year old monitor that I have to set to a much higher brightness setting than when it was new. I could answer my own question, except that during this time I've had a continually worsening eyesight condition, so I can't tell whether it's me or the monitor or both. If I knew whether or not it was normal or at least not too uncommon for the backlight to dim over time it would help me to figure things out. Thanks much.
Do you mean "LCD backlight"?
If so, as far as my knowledge goes, should not be the case with a good LCD. However, I'm not sure whether that would be applicable in that situation over prolonged periods like 3 years. If the brightness of other light sources has diminished relatively less to the LCD, it could be that your eyesight is not entirely to blame, and the LCD maybe indeed degrading.
Sorry I wasn t exactly sure where to post this thread I looked up how to remove this warning that keeps coming up on this forum earlier and followed the procedure someone posted about renaming a file called TWARNMSG EXE i couldn t find that file and as the problems and the make of laptop were slightly different I thought I d post my issue My laptop is a Toshiba Satellite Pro C - W and I have a message that keeps coming up every seconds headed quot System Warning quot and reads quot Warning A problem with the cooling system has been detected C660-16W cooling Pro warning system -- Satellite Repetitive Toshiba Next Line Please turn off the computer immediately and return it for service quot I have had this warning coming up for months and tolerated it but it has gotten worse and annoyed me for the last time I can hear the fan and the computer is not over heating No other issues arise like the computer slowing down it just gets in the way of what I am doing like typing right now As I have typed it s already popped up - times Please help soon this is preventing me from gaming and even other things by now Thanks nbsp
I'm going to have your thread moved to a more appropriate forum. Please stay subscribed.
Note: TWarnMsg twarnmsg.exe > Toshiba System Warning Function for Windows 98, Me, 2000 - provides notification dialog when the cooling fan stops ...
This is a valid program, but it is up to you whether or not you want it to run on startup.
There are some rogue programs that give fake alerts or 'critical system messages.' But this isn't one of them. It is specific to the brand of system you have. It might be that someone in the other forum has another idea- but my suggestion would be to take it to a show and have them open and clean out the box.
I recently finished building a low budget gaming rig, after installing windows 7, the drivers for my hardware, doing updates...etc, my bios warned me that my hard drive's status is "BAD", I skipped this warning and booted into windows where I was informed that my hard drive could fail soon and I should back up. I should mention that I formerly used this drive in an external enclosure for almost two years before using it in my rig.
I backed up and ran crystal clear disk info (see results attached). What should my next course of action be? Could I have done something wrong in the building process to cause this?
The disk is going bad, to put it in simple terms.
It could continue for a while longer, but I would consider replacing it.
There might be an option that could repair the damage (I think), but I'm sure someone else will say if there is.