Ok so my week old laptop as suddenly became really slow and CPU usage says but when I look most are with or so things with about - so I dunno what is happening Although if I system restore from before Issue Sound Issue Speed and all the Vista service pack updates happened then it is quite a bit Speed Issue and Sound Issue better though still sometimes laggy Also my sound is sometimes messed up and all fuzzy I dunno if this is linked to the speed issue or not All the specs etc Summary Product Name Aspire G Operating System Microsoft Windows Vista amp Home Premium Service Pack Processor AMD Turion tm X Dual-Core Mobile RM- System Memory MB Hard Drive WDC WD BEVT- ZCT SCSI Disk Device GB CD DVD Drive Slimtype BD E DS E S SCSI CdRom Device Video NVIDIA GeForce M GF MG GF MGS NVIDIA GeForce M GF MGS GF MG Audio Realtek High Definition Audio NVIDIA High Definition Audio Network Broadcom NetXtreme Gigabit Ethernet Atheros AR X Wireless Network Adapter HDAUDIO Soft Data Fax Modem with SmartCP UUID A E A EDE B BA E Serial Number LXARG X DD BIOS Version v Battery mAh LI-ION Processor Processor AMD Turion tm X Dual-Core Mobile RM- Cores L Cache Data Cache KB x Execution Trace Cache KB x L Cache KB x Multimedia Video Device Device Name NVIDIA GeForce M GF MG GF MGS Total Available Graphics Memory MB Dedicated Video Memory MB Device Name NVIDIA GeForce M GF MGS GF MG Total Available Graphics Memory MB Dedicated Video Memory MB Audio Device Realtek High Definition Audio NVIDIA High Definition Audio Webcam Device Device Name Acer Crystal Eye webcam Driver Version Memory Current Memory Size MB Memory Type DDR Slot Installed Size MB Slot Installed Size MB nbsp
I recommend downloading and running Reimage. It's a computer repair tool that has been proven to identify and fix many Windows problems with a high level of success.
I've used it in the past to identify and fix everything from blue screens (BSOD's), ActiveX errors, corrupt files and processes, dll/exe/sys errors, recover lost memory, Windows update problems, defragging, malware removal etc.
You can download it direct from this link http://downloadreimage.com/directdownload.php. (This link will automatically start a download of Reimage that you can save to your computer.)
Hi everyone A few days ago I replaced my cpu motherboard and hdds on my system OLD System main components Case Antec v Cpu i Mobo Asus onboard realtek mobo low crackling) bk volume (very ud3h sound ac1150 issue - and Gigabyte p x d-e RAM corsair vengence gb x GPU Zotac GTX Boot drive Intel Gigabyte ud3h bk mobo - realtek ac1150 onboard sound issue (very low volume and crackling) gb ssd Win HDD WD TB black New System main components Case Antec v Cpu i k Mobo Gigabyte z x - ud h-bk RAM corsair vengence gb x GPU Zotac GTX Boot drive Samsumg evo gb ssd Win HDD WD Gigabyte ud3h bk mobo - realtek ac1150 onboard sound issue (very low volume and crackling) TB black I was able to clone the ssd and hdd samsung migration for ssd and Easeus todo backup for hdd Initally I had some driver conflict when I Gigabyte ud3h bk mobo - realtek ac1150 onboard sound issue (very low volume and crackling) booted up the computer on the new mobo I managed to uninstall all the old drivers and then used the driver cd to install the mobo drivers and even updated all of them to the latest version I The conflict I m still having is with the back panel audio for the onboard sound I get very low volume and and crackling at certain frequencies tried on both my generic creative speaker and Audio technical headphones When I m plugging in the speaker into the green port and have it plugged in half way or accidentally touch the jack to the I o plate I get really strong loud static noise Here is the list of solution that I tried with no success Updated the Realtek HD Audio Manager app I e the one installed from the driver cd to the latest one Used DPC latency checker and it is showing all greens didn t test it for more than a minute though should I be doing something while the app is on to test for interference Installed Generic Realtek driver for ac codec Disabled C E and EIST in the bios Played with the equalizers on Realtek HD Audio Manager helped to reduce bit of static but its still there and the volume is still very low Disabled all line in devices Checked audio with a ubuntu live cd and the problem still persists does this indicate a hardware issue What I find strange is that my front panel that is connected to the HD audio pins on the motherboard works fine with the same speaker and headphones I still have some more solutions I need to test out like Update the bios currently on F version the latest is F I have a spare asus xonar dg PCI so will try to install it and test if audio will works fine But this is not a permanent solution as I only have one PCI slot which I m using for my wireless card adapter Edimax g Run Memtest can this ever be a problem for sound related issues Driver Sweeper I believe I have properly manually uninstalled all the mobo drivers but going try this app to be sure Can someone please point me in the right direction on how to solve this This is the first time I m installing replacing a mobo and cpu so should check if there is a wiring issue when I replaced all the parts back into the case Please let me know if more information is need to help resolve this I have a few more days left incase I have to RMA the mobo so any pointers would really be helpful before I decide to send it back if at all TIA Sreejit S nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/gigabyte-ud3h-bk-mobo-realtek-ac1150-onboard-sound-issue-very-low-volume-and-crackling.217321/
I have recently purchased a new HP Ultrabook Folio1040. After few days of use I noticed I could hear a clicking noise comming from my laptop, this noise you can only hear if the room is silent. any idea ?
I have replaced a new Sandisk 256 gb SSD hard drive with 128 ssd. is it normal to hear this sound ? speakers are on mute.
but sound only comes when I move my laptop ...when it is on flat surface the sound sometimes stops sometimes keep coming slowly. Thanks in advance.
Does the "click" sound only happen when you are moving the mouse or scrolling the wheel or anything (Basically, doing anything on the computer?)
If so the processor could just have a small click sound coming as it's processing, I've noticed this with a few system but most don't do it.
You say it has an SSD and not a HDD, so it shouldn't be the hard drive making the noise as there's no physical parts moving, it operates similarly to RAM. Otherwise I would see if it sounds like it's coming from where the Fan is.
Does anyone out there has experimented to use a Sound Card on a IBM Power 7 server running AIX 7.1
I know the card should be a PCIe lo profile to match the hardware. My concern is mainly with having the system recognize the card and drivers on AIX.
Any help will be apreciated.
The proprietary Unix OS should recognize the sound cards with out problems
Hi, as the title suggests I've got a bit of a sound problem:
I wish to record some of my digital sound (e.g. my friends in Skype) using Audacity and stereo mix. However, using the built-in stereo mix record feature Audacity has, no sound is being recorded. So I checked out the stereo mix device under 'recording devices' in 'Sound' and found that it was not detecting any sound at all.
I'm not totally sure as to how all it's settings must be, but it's like this now:
Listen to: enabled
Playback through: Speakers (Realtek HD Audio)
The device is set to be 'used' ofcourse.
Any help would be greatly appreciated...
Go to Edit -> Preferences and to the 'Audio I/O' or 'Devices' tab, and make sure the the audio INPUT is set to the source you want to hear from, in this case, the pc sound card or such, apparently Windows 7 does not change the input device when you select the Stereo Mix function for some reason.
If that's not the case, maybe your sound driver isn't allowing the stereo mix to work, you can try the Control Panel configuring method, which you can find at the audacity website (i can't set up links yet, but go to wiki.audacityteam.org/ and add this: index.php?title=Mixer_Toolbar_Issues#Using_the_Control_Panel) [sorry for this, but it's for a good reason, i'm not a bot/spam ]
kind of a pain to read through and configure everything, but will fix the issue.
If you don't want any trouble at all, you can just plug you speaker in the PC's 'Line In' plug (the blue one), and set Audacity's Input device to "Line in" or such.
I just solved my own problem and thought others might benefit since I could not find the solution using internet search My Realtek HD Audio manager seemed to be creating an echo on my quot Line In quot HD Audio Realtek "line from effect) (if in" echo it Removing output sound not a is audio signal I had already set the environment and equalizer sound effects options to lt None gt but the echo persisted I found the problem seems that I was essentially duplicating the Removing "line in" echo from Realtek HD Audio output (if it is not a sound effect) Line In audio stream The first quot source quot I found was the HD Audio manager You can open the manager and view the Line In tab - mine had a non-zero playback volume the slider was NOT all the way to Removing "line in" echo from Realtek HD Audio output (if it is not a sound effect) the left for zero playback If you want Removing "line in" echo from Realtek HD Audio output (if it is not a sound effect) output from the HD Manager that makes sense I also found out a second Line In quot source quot It was in the Line In properties settings where I had checked off the option to quot Listen to this device quot When I disabled that the echo disappeared To view this Line In properties tab right-click on the speaker icon in the notification area then select Recording Devices yes quot Recording quot Then the tab will display in a window with the title Sound You should see the Line In device in the list Right-click on this item and select Properties The Line In properties window pops up Then select the Listen tab UNselect Listen to this device The echo should disappear if you re experiencing my problem I hope this helps someone I m just trying to help the community from which I ve received so much help grinthumb nbsp
Two same signals
You're doing the right thing... getting rid of the other input signal.
Hello, Im using Medion Akoya laptop, win 7 32bit.. The problem started 4-5 months ago when sound just stopped after a few minutes of use, and as time passed sound worked shorter and shorter, a month ago it worked just so I could hear the windows starting sound, and it stopped after a few secs.. Now I cant even hear it.. But when I plug in headphones or other speakers it works.. I tried reinstalling windows, playing with the drivers and sound options in device manager, tried everything I could find on google.. But either its my low understanding of what people say or just a different problem (I never found a post that had the SAME problem as me).. Please help me if u can, I want to sell my laptop and I cant do that like this..
Update : I installed the soundcard drivers that I found for this exact laptop, uninstalled drivers that were installed with windows update, installed the driver I downloaded, system sounds worked properly untill I went to youtube and watched a video for like 30 secs.. then it just stopped like it used to when this problem first showed up..
Also I noticed that when laptop goes to saving mode, or whatever(screen goes black) like a black screen saver, and when I move the mouse a bit to wake it and continue the video, it has sound, but stops after a while again..
Let me start by describing my setup. I have my desktop computer connected to my ultra 4k tv via a 20 ft hdmi cable. A couple of days ago I noticed that when I play a video file from my computer the sound is skipping and popping. However, when I play a pc game on the tv using the same setup the sound is fine. When I watch the same file on my computer it works perfectly, so I know it isn't the video file. Also, I tried a different hdmi cable and the problem persists, so I know it isn't the cable. Prior to this new problem everything was working fine. I have reinstalled my video cards drivers, but this didn't fix the problem.
processor: Intel core i5 - 3570K CPU @ 3.40GHz 3.40 GHz
Installed memory (RAM): 16.0 GB
System Type: 64 - bit operating system (windows 7 ultimate)
display adapter: Nvidia GeForce GTX 970
Vizio 43" ultra 4k tv
Anyone have any idea what could be causing this?
Have you tried to hook it up to another television via the HDMI cable and see if the problem persists? What program (software) do you use to watch the videos? I personally like VLC media player, because you can adjust the sound timing if needed.
I have a Vista Home Premium bit pc sp I have an audio problem The audio usually works perfect This is the second time in monts external sound from No speakers that for some reason it just doesn t get thru the speakers Although they sound like they are working perfect I have external speakers and the LED light is on to show the power is on If I turn the speaker on off it appears the sound is excellent On the speaker icon in the taskbar there is no red line through it All volumes appear fine When I right click speaker icon left click playback devices there is one icon quot speakers quot Realtek High Definition Audio checkmarked quot working quot Everything on the bottom is greyed out There is no yellow warnings under device manager When I click on sound it says quot Realtek High Definition Audio quot Right clicking for properities bring up the device is working properly The light is lit on my networks card is that what it s called My sister used the headphones a few days ago and said No sound from external speakers there hasn t been sound since although when I plugged them in there was no sound thru the headphones OR the speakers Speakers ARE working Attached is the DxDiag file My sister thanks you a million in advance for any instructions we can follow nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/no-sound-from-external-speakers.212794/
I went back to a restore point .Now I have no playback device other than my headset . It has sound on my headset but not through the speakers.and this comp. has a built in speaker and used to play, when I go to device manager under sound,I see my headset and 4 Nvidia High Definition Audio nothing wrong with any of it..I tried to update the drivers but it said they were all updated ... what am I missing?
List any Problem devices
Make sure devices are connected and powered on
Click Start->Run, enter: msinfo32. Click the + sign next to Components to expand it
Click Problem Devices. Anything appear?
If yes, click on it, Ctrl-A to select all, Ctrl-C to copy it, Ctrl-V to paste into next post
On the other hand, if no devices are listed, tell me so
Generate and attach a DirectX report
Click Start->Run, enter dxdiag and click OK
===> If you?re running 32 bit Windows, dxdiag will launch on its own
===> If you?re running 64 bit Windows, you?ll see 64-bit DxDiag. Click it to launch the 64-bit version of dxdiag
Notice progress in lower left window corner
When done, click Save Information button and save as a text file to your Desktop
Attach it to your next post by clicking the Upload a File button
My usb keyboard and mouse stop working for abt 30 sec or so when I put my phone in charging mode with one of my usb ports...will it be safer to get a usb sound card or an internal pci sound card?.I prefer the usb sound card for its portability;especially if I shift to notebook platform. but I am worried about not getting enough juice through the usb port to power the sound amplifier since I have connected quite a number of devices on existing usb ports.. choices are either,'asus xonar DG' internal pci sound card or 'creative sound blaster play 2 usb sound card'.
So basically how the title is.
My internet would drop out/freeze. Router doesn't indicate any change in service. I plug my laptop into the modem, and have prime speeds.
Restart the router. Works for awhile.
Reinstalled the firmware manually on the router.
Set the Channel off of "Auto" and put on various options of 9, 10, 11 to avoid clashes with other networks.
Freezes. Now the router indicates there's no connection. Drag the cord out of modem and test. Prime speeds.
Okay, screw this - I went and bought a new router yesterday because, sure, that Belkin one was 2-3 years old. Set it up with same channel settings, etc.
I have a laptop that runs a VPN (for work) that uses it, plus multiple iphones (3) and ipads (2) an AppleTV and a Samsung smart TV.
Like, help me please here.
OK, but lets solve on thing at a time 1) ignore the VPN at work and let's get the home router stabilized.
The mobile devices are difficult to diagnose, so 2) stick with the PC for now.
did you update the ethernet & wifi drivers on the PC?
have you looked to ensure your new router has the latest firmware?
*if* you have a DSL connection to the ISP, do you have the line filters on EVERY device connected to the phone line EXCEPT the line to the modem? *MUST HAVE*
Got to get these right first.
THEN, find the MTU that's right for you AT HOME and set that into the new router:
get a command prompt
ping -l 1500 -f 22.214.171.124
as long as you see Packet needs to be fragmented but DF set., reduce the 1500 by 8 and iterate with the new number
:: record the MTU that works for your ISP at home
The router conf page is accessible using your browser and HTTP://your_router_address/
You need the router password
set the new MTU. Also set a new router password and save the settngs.
The wired connection should be solid at this point.
The wifi should also be better, as long as you avoid other stations with the same channel.
I assume you've see the post re inSSIDER for wifi setup.
I need some professional help.
R9270x BY XFX
NOW, without the graphics card the computer runs fine. When I install the ddriver's for the r9 it will work, but eventually the display driver stopped working makes its way back.
I've ran all diagnostics on the memory and checked temperstures which all turned out to be fine.
I sent the card into xfx and they returned it saying it's fine.
WTF DO I DO MATES. I think it's the card....but that's just me.
Okay Everyone This time I'm really not sure if this is in the right forum.
My new Laptop sounds, to me, like transistor radio when I play music.
Sure it has Dolby. But. With two tiny speakers on the bottom, it doesn't
seem to help much
Today I fixed the problem. I plugged in the sound system I used on my desktop PC.
2 XA3021 Altec Lansing speakers, with a matching Altec Lansing XA3021 sub woofer.
I've had them for about 10 years now, and they still sound really good.
Here's my question. Does the Dolby that comes with the Laptop only work with the built in speakers
or does it extend to my Altec Lansing speakers?
As the title implies I m currently having issues the first major issue is that my PC is turning on off and which the second is that my other hard drive suddenly up and Issue Invisible & HDD Computer Grounding disappeared on me My computer started to turn on and off on me for no reason while I was trouble shooting my initial problem of the HDD when I fiddled around inside my case Eventually ripping everything out of the case and quot card-boarding quot the motherboard which it worked and stayed on and as I gradually put everything back together it was all good until I sat the motherboard back onto the brass copper studs that sits inside the frame and screwed it in At that point my computer started to turn on and off again which lead me to believe it s some manner of a grounding issue Computer Grounding Issue & Invisible HDD I have no clue on what to do at this point about going about this should I just get a new case made of plastic My current full tower case is all steel While I was watching a movie which was stored on my second hard drive is started to freeze lag repeat all that good stuff on me It froze my computer up completely and I was force to hard reset the computer when I booted my PC back up I found that my second hard drive had up and vanished on me So I went into my bios and saw it quot working quot I switch to ACHI to see if it ll make a difference but I got a BSoD so I left it at IDE At that point my computer gave me the option to quot repair windoe files quot or start normally Both options made my computer get stuck on the loading screen thankfully safe mode boots up fine So what could had caused this and how may I go about fixing it nbsp
I also swapped out the PSU with a spare I had lying around, didn't get any power from it so I reused my old one. Now I don't have power from that one either. So besides the "missing" HDD and a suddenly a "no longer working PSU "I'm assuming the motherboard is bad, opinions?
Ever since I setup a KVM switch to have 2 computers sharing 1 monitor/keyboard/mouse, I have had monitor problems.
There is a subtle but noticeable wobble/ wavey-ness thing happening across the screen when connected to one of my computers (my AMD).
Also, my display (with AMD computer) has a stretched horizontally look. I have tried different screen resolutions but they all give this stretched look which I didn't have before.
And my AMD used to give 1920 x 1080 as an option for max resolution, but this is now capped at 1600 x 1200.
Please help as this is very annoying & looks awful. The specs of the KVM switch say "Max. Resolution: 1920 x 1440. Bandwidth: 200MHZ"
My AMD computer:
Windows 7 64 bit SP1.
AMD Athlon II X4 620 2.6GHz.
Video card ATI Radeon HD 4350
What is the make and model of the KVM switch you purchased? I have tried lower quality switches at my work and found similar results. Ended up having to get one of the more expensive / better brand ones that solved the issues.
My Dell has been acting up pretty recently (6 months old and still under warranty), and the battery does not charge past 80%. Once it get's near the 80% charge, it immediately fills up to 100%.
I've remembered using the laptop for more than 6 hours under moderate use but now it barely lasts 2 hours.
Please give me some advice because I'm really dependent on this laptop.
You have 6 or 8 cells battery. If 6 it's normall. Should work about 2-max 3 hours when new. On 8 cells could work till 5 h.
Producers give only 6 months of warranty on bateries
I recently got this amazing p monitor for my custom rig and I love it Well most of it There is this problem with the backlight where when the monitor turns on after a while of inactivity the backlight turns on Monitor Backlight ASUS an with Issue VK-248h for a split second Issue with an ASUS VK-248h Monitor Backlight then suddenly goes very dim Issue with an ASUS VK-248h Monitor Backlight The brightness setting Issue with an ASUS VK-248h Monitor Backlight is unchanged kept at a solid yet it s a quarter as bright as it should be I can go into the menu and change the brightness and I can tell faintly that it does adjust but never up to the proper level To remedy the issue I repeatedly turn the monitor off and on until the display finally lights up properly and it stays that way for the entire time I am using it At the start of the session in which I write this post I had to do this at least times before it worked so I finally decided to really look into this problem It seems this is a unique issue as I found absolutely no matching posts on the interwebs by searching with the all-mighty Google Search Is there anyone that can provide some insight as to why this occurs and or how to fix it Thanks for your time nbsp
New theory: Bad capacitors... somewhere. Possibly power supply
After a day at work, observing some coworkers working on used LCD TVs (and working on one myself), I now understand quite a bit more about such things.
I had removed the display from my setup and left it on the floor for a few days. Today, I decided to try it again. The backlight started up perfectly fine, surprisingly. The ASUS screen showed for a couple seconds, then went off, as normal. Then, when it's supposed to activate the selected display input, it shows the screen for just long enough to get half a frame drawn, then goes completely black. Turning monitor off and on repeatedly, and trying different input methods, gave same result. I got it to work once, but at that time the backlight had gone too dim again.
I think now I might know how to fix it, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to take the dang thing apart! Lol.
I'm working on a XP machine. I think its slowness when installing apps (and also when its installation) is because of the HDD issue. Maybe there are bad sectors. I know that using C:\ drive properties -> tools, I can test the C: drive for bad sectors. But how to see the results!? It's wants me to restart the PC. Is there any log file after finishing of the test?
Is there any better way to find and solve the issue please?
The better way is to run a true diagnostic utility like SeaTools. Run a Long Generic test on the drive and see what happens (this will take a while).
If I currently get an average of 20mbps using a linksys n router with comcast as my ISP. If I upgrade to an ac router, and assuming I have ac compatible devices, will I get any significant increase in wifi speed? I wasn't sure if I need to get a faster internet tier from Comcast or not. AC routers promise much faster speeds (400mbps) but comcast says they provide me with 25 tops. Can I just upgrade my router or do I have to pay more to comcast?
If 25mbps is all that comcast is providing, u are doing all u can expect if u are receiving 20 u are doing all u can expect with that plan. changing u'r router is not going to help in the least.
Hi All I have a strange one here I connect to the net via my Belkin router nothing special about the setup of the router My main pc however I have configured to use a static IP for downloading purposes I have used the same IPV settings for a number of years with no dramas Last night I switched on the PC and connected to the Internet but after a few minutes I got the no internet connection symbol yellow triangle I am connected via networking plugs also so tried the see if they were the issue but they are fine I ran the windows troubleshoot wizard and it came back with Your computer is trying to use a DNS server that is incorrect or doesn t exist I removed my static IP details and tried to connect by obtaining IP details automatically but this had no effect I used my phone s internet connection DNS Issue to google this DNS Issue and was advised to try which I then reinput my static ip details but this time putting the google dns settings and I can connect to the net The wierd thing is that my wifi will not connect to the net my DNS Issue question really is do I need to update the DNS setting in my router in order to get wifi working or should I be flushing DNS on pc the wifi is for my Ipad so not a lot DNS Issue I can do on that to connect Making my brain ache a bit sorry for the long post any help or advice would be appreciated Arvon nbsp
Yes, you can set the DNS addresses in the router manually and then every device connected to that router will inherit your settings when they are configured to you DHCP
I m doing this on my Toshiba laptop at the moment and you ll see why later in this post Earlier today I acquired an ASUS Z C notebook and had noticed that the keyboard is acting rather strange Certain keys will also register other keys when pressed Here s which ones react this ASUS Issue Z54C/X54C Mapping Keyboard way letters are not case sensitive U will also register Zero will register registers registers R W registers S ASUS Z54C/X54C Keyboard Mapping Issue I I places a Date Stamp this might be the problem There may be others but I d like to move on to the behavior the way this behaves is if I press the key U then quot u quot or quot U quot will show up depending on ASUS Z54C/X54C Keyboard Mapping Issue if I press Shift or not The same thing happens if I press the key This is the same for all others if I press one or the other of these keys in question the other appears with it At first I thought this was a problem with the copy of Windows that was installed so I installed Windows Tech Preview I was going to do so anyway However this behavior did not go away Looking for help and I d be more than happy to resolve this problem I should note that not all keys behave this way but that the majority of them work fine It s just that this should not be happening to begin with I ve also pulled the keyboard out and inspected it I didn t see any dried fluids or any obstructions in the keys Should I perhaps consider replacing the keyboard Sadly I have no USB keyboards to see if the behavior is isolated to the laptops primary keyboard although using the On-Screen Keyboard doesn t elicit this behavior nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/asus-z54c-x54c-keyboard-mapping-issue.208302/
On my studio pc, I've installed a new rack mounted firewire audio interface in the studio. On the other drives (windows 8.1) the interface has installed perfectly but on the xp drive, although the drivers etc have been installed, once set, it works perfectly with the new outboard soundcard.
However, whenever I reboot to the xp drive, xp always reverts back to the on-board realtek sound card. I set the default to the new interface (a Presonus Firestudio Project) but every reboot it defaults to the realtek.
The motherboard is a P5N-E SLI if that helps.
How can I stop this happening so the new interface is the default?
Thanks in advance,
Have an unusual mark on screen at startup then green lines and pink but otherwise pc ok cannot upload jpeg image for some reason
HI all I am having problems detecting the Xonar Pheobus and have tried all and 5 Rampage Asus Phoebus Xonar issue Asus Extreme the pcie slots with no luck Red and the grey - even the shorter grey slot Have disabled the motherboard s HD onboard Asus Xonar Phoebus and Asus Rampage 5 Extreme issue sound too and still not detected in my devices The pcie cable is connected to the sound card and I have enough PSU to power all - Enermax W When the card is inserted to the grey slots - The red light Asus Xonar Phoebus and Asus Rampage 5 Extreme issue is seen through the control extension box Headphone Microphone Connector Asus Xonar Phoebus and Asus Rampage 5 Extreme issue box jack ports However the green light is NOT seen AND the Xonar Phoebus logo on the card itself is lit powered up However when I insert the card into the red pcie slots these lights are not on One this else I noticed is the card DOES go warm over some time so tells me it is not switched off I tried to install the driver and I get a message no card detected etc etc Is there anyone kind enough to advise me their BIOS settings etc who has managed to get the Xonar to work properly Did you have to adjust any BIOS settings from default to get the card to be recognised Printscreens would be cool if it is not too much of a bother Thank you in advance Kind regards Killershadow nbsp
The question(s) I have is ->
Am I missing anything when attempting to install the sound card? I have tried with no GPU drivers (including the Nvidia sound for the GTX 750 ti sc) / disabled onboard HD sound and still the sound card not detected.
Even in this motherboard, it should detect the sound card regardless of what sound source is set as default and then allow me to install it and set it as default (without messing about with the BIOS)?
Maybe my sound card has died when moving it from the last computer - Static death.....................
Hello All I am having a bit of a strange issue that I have with CPU Motherboard or Strange issue never run into before Yesterday after getting home from the store I booted up my PC and started to play a game although I noticed that I was getting framerate stuttering It seemed to keep dropping a lot throughout my play So I started taking a look at some of my sensor utilities Strange issue with CPU or Motherboard When I opened Asus Probe II I noticed that it was telling me that one of my chassis fans weren t running Okay no problem it must have gone bad I than took at look at the frequency and noticed that my AMD FX- was only running at GHz per core I also checked CPUZ and had the same results So I booted to the bios just to take a look and noticed that it show my Chassis fan WAS running fine and that my frequency was at GHz per core as it should So I though that it must be a fluke Booted back into windows and again same issues So I shutdown and took the side off my case which is also where the Chassis fan it said was running is located Turned the computer back on and noticed the fan was running fine I logged into windows and noticed that seconds after windows logs in that one chassis fan turns off and the CPU underclocks to GHz multiplier All of the other fans in my case still running perfectly GPU running fine HDD s running fine Could it be possible that Asus probe II itself is underclocking my CPU If so what would be causing the fan to shut off My first thought was power-supply but I have no issues when stressing my hardware even in this state I am an IT consultant but have not run into this issue before Any help would be greatly appreciated PC Specs- ASUS m a r Motherboard AMD FX- CPU CoolerMaster HYPER N CPU Cooler Kingston HyperX Blu GB x Galaxy Geforce GTX Ti OC w PowerSupply Cougar Evolution Full Tower Case Samsung gb SSD Let me know if you need any other information nbsp
CPU temperature too high?
So I have a Toshiba Portege r500 with no H/d & a second one for parts. When I went to take the H/D and pop it in I realized the H/D hook-up cables are different. The "parts laptop" has a "FMUSH1" cable connecting it to the sata drive. The newer Portege has a cable labeled " FMUPH2" (I'm assuming for an SSD?)
My Question is....Can easily swap them somehow or is there an adapter/converter possibly?
Thanks in advance for any possible help!
So with more research I'm thinking I have a ZIF Tape (Cable) that previously connected to a 1.8 SSD which I now need to convert to a 2.5 sata connection.
I ordered a 24-Pin ZIF to SATA Adapter Connector Card off eBay. It comes with its own "ribbon" (Tape/cable whatever) as shown in the pic. Will I need to replace the ZIF from my mobo with it? or is it simply in case "you" need it?
Also just wondering could I have swapped out the sata ribbon (Fmush1) with the ZIF ribbon (Fmuph2) where they connect to the MoBo instead? (It's extremely difficult to get to on this model and the "clips" seem very fragile so I avoided attempting it)
So, I built a PC years ago and kept a few things from my old unit.
Sound and video card.
Sound card didn't work with the new system so I'm running it onboard. Sounds okay, but I'd like to update it!
Video card is beyond old. Just picked up SimCity for 10 bucks and it looks like crap. Has to play on low settings.
Here's what I have:
Core i7 950 running at 3.07
6MB Ram (thinking of going to 8 here)
64bit OS Windows 7 home premium
ATI Radeon 5450. (NOT HD) I've looked for the card online and can't even find a picture of it.
What should I be looking for in terms of a video card to last me for years to come?
Santa left me a nice check for Xmas so money isn't really an issue!
Here's a pic of the PC (graphics card is taken out from the missing PCIe slot)
Wow. Bestselling card on Amazon is $359.99
I wasn't thinking of spending more than $200...I don't game that much and just want a much-needed upgrade!
Hello I have an old HP Pavilion n that has - GB DDR PC ram modules but they are being reported in BIOS as only being at PC and I am just wondering if this is the best that this system can do with this speed of ram or is there anything that I can do to get it to run at PC Here are the specs from CPU-Z Mainboard Model - ASUS P B -LA rev Chipset - Intel i D rev Southbridge - Intel BA ICH rev Processor Intel Pentium - GHz - Northwood Clocks Core Core Speed - MHz Multiplier - x Bus Speed - MHz Rated FSB - MHz CPU-Z is reporting that both modules are PC DDR but the BIOS is indicating PC The BIOS does not have the ability to change anything regarding clock settings and the board itself has no jumpers to change so any input would be welcome regarding any suggestions if this system can actually get full usage of the PC DDR GB modules or if it can only run at PC because of the Bus Speed I thought that if Speed Ram reporting BIOS not correct in the board had a MHz FSB it would run DDR PC ram Any advice would be appreciated Thanks Brian nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/ram-not-reporting-correct-speed-in-bios.207737/
I have a laptop and I'm using Razer Kraken Neon Pro. Microphone takes everything from headset, that I can't play games and talk through skype with my friends. The sound is just too high for them. My brother got Razer Kraken Neon Pro too, but on desktop pc, still the same problem.
Windows 7 my pc, Windows 8 my brother's pc. I have IDT sound device.
My pc was getting heated nd fan was a bit noisy.
so cleaned my fan in a shop .when I returned home hardly 10 min my pc worked then shut down
again I went der he saw fan was not moving he pushed it a bit nd it started moving it worked for me till this this evening but again when I shut it down fr a while it gave me the same issue I removed the keypad tried to move the fan with my fingers nd its working now .....
whats the main issue
The fan is old and needs to be replaced.
So I ve owned my P HM gaming laptop for around years now and for the most part I haven t had any issues However when I start my laptop it always defaults to booting off of the ethernet card even after switching my SSD to the position in the bios menu Normally this isn t that much of an issue as I can just cycle through the bios boot options using CTRL Laptop Boot issue ALT DEL The main issue that I am having now is that the last time I was using my laptop I used hibernate instead of the normal quot sleep quot or quot standby quot Now whenever I attempt to start my laptop up the message quot Resume from hibernate quot is on my screen which is normal except it tries to resume using the ethernet card If the laptop is in hibernate evidently I am not able to access the BIOS menu or cycle through my boot drives I have read that a way to fix this Laptop Boot issue might just be taking the battery out and letting any residual power that the motherboard might be running off of fade away over time I read that this normally only takes minutes or so I tried waiting minutes and it Laptop Boot issue didn t work so I just tried again but waited a few hours this time before putting the battery back in and attempting to start my laptop up The laptop is still attempting to boot from hibernate Does anyone know of any way to get to the BIOS menu from the hibernate screen Or does anyone know of anyway to fully shut off my laptop Laptop Boot issue to get rid of hibernate and just start up normally Any assistance would be greatly appreciated nbsp
it always defaults to booting off of the ethernet cardClick to expand...
This means that BIOS is not seeing any HD, marked Active and contains a bootable partition
I m trying to configure Surround Sound but Realtek doesn t seem to be installing and it s configuring speakers driver 5.1 Realtek Trouble Sound; issues Surround to driving me nuts I have installed the driver provided by Gigabyte for my motherboard Trouble configuring speakers to 5.1 Surround Sound; Realtek driver issues and it s not doing anything It installs asks me to restart the PC but nothing is Trouble configuring speakers to 5.1 Surround Sound; Realtek driver issues there OS is Windows -bit Gigabyte says that my motherboard supports both and Surround Sound so I don t understand why I can t configure my speakers to run it only lets me use Stereo Device manager only shows High Definition Audio Device and Control Panel doesn t show Realtek at all Realtek Audio Manager doesn t appear either it s not in the system tray icons where I would usually find it Even searching for Realtek brings up nothing other than all the drivers I have downloaded to see if they would work Link to motherboard s Realtek driver as provided by Gigabyte http www gigabyte com products product-page aspx pid dl Link to motherboard s specification http www gigabyte com products product-page aspx pid sp Image showing my device manager gt sound http gyazo com ad b bd e ae a Any ideas as to what the problem is I can t seem to find anything audio related in BIOS either nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/trouble-configuring-speakers-to-5-1-surround-sound-realtek-driver-issues.206888/
So today out of nowhere, "well previouslly I installed game called "TERA" and after it this started but I unistalled it and it's still the same" when I listen to music, any sounds especially when sounds get louder, sound starts to cracklle, familiar to static but crackle, also when I play games, fps is lower now, it sometimes freezes, crackled when game appears to make sound and etc. Sometimes video card turns off and on bottom right it says "Nvidia bla bal bla has stoped working, reconnected bla bla" I have no idea what that is, I changed my Headphones to other ones, I checked temperature of both CPU and GPU, are both fine 30-50~ as it usually is. Unistalled game that it (might off coincidentally) ruin it but I doubt it was that.
I really need help, reinstalling windows and downloading all the stuff with slow internet again will be pain for me.
p.s I installed new drivers for video card too. PLEASE HELP
Also this thing crashed out of nowhere too
Here is the problem I just recently was given a laptop. I was told that it was hooked up to a tv with HDMI but, there was sound on the laptop. I am running Windows 7 Premium HP Pavilion g7-1318dx Notebook PC
Serial Number: 6CF2085XDS Product Number: A7A43UAR . I have no sound with just notebook speakers. I have went to the HP driver download site and tried to download the audio drivers. I receive a warning " The Hardware detected is not supported by this IDT software package. Install will now abort." There are 3 Audio downloads on the Hp website none work. The speaker Icon down by the clock with a red X on it when you do a mouse roll over it says no speakers or headphones are plugged in. I have tried headphones still no sound. I have also tried to the windows trouble shooter and it says it detects no problems. Play back devices is only showing Digital Audio (HDMI) High definition Audio device not plugged in. Recording says there are no audio devises are installed in. I have tried everything any help would be appreciated.
I think that you need an extra lead because HDMI gives picture only. The lead I have has a mini stereo jackplug at one end which goes into the computer's headphones socket and two phono plugs (white and yellow) at the other to plug into the TV's audio input at the back. You should then be able to work out how to set up the sound via Control Panel.
I need help Okay so I hooked up all my parts last night with issue 560ti Crosshair and Video V Asus GPU to my ASUS Crosshair Formula V mobo and Video issue with Asus Crosshair V and 560ti GPU when I boot it will not show any video whatsoever No beeps no video no nothing I have a ti in there right now because I wanted to test it before my new came in that I ordered yesterday Video issue with Asus Crosshair V and 560ti GPU just wanted to see if the mobo was functional and all my other components were working Does anyone know why I would be getting no video I was thinking maybe I need to reset Video issue with Asus Crosshair V and 560ti GPU the CMOS Some people told me to check the BIOS but how do I do that if I have zero video on my screen Any help would be great as I am at wit s end with this stupid computer it has not run right since I moved and it is extremely frustrating putting all this time and money into this thing with no results I used to have a Corsair Liquid CPU cooler but the pump died and I finally got fed up with Liquid Coolers and went with a Noctua heat sink instead Going to do some more testing after work but was hoping to get some tips from you guys I have other ti s I can test to see if that card is just dead but it was like midnight and just decided to give up for the night last night Also My motherboard doesn t have an on-board video port I don t believe I see none at least My PC was up and running with drivers loaded for this exact card before it went down the computer has just been sitting there for months I am using the same hard drive only thing that has changed is the Noctua cpu cooler being in place of the now dead Corsair H All the fans are running the video card fan is running the psu fan is running so it seems like everything is getting power Any help would be greatly appreciated If you need more info please let me know nbsp
Let's do this one step at a time, first no part of any computer lasts for ever. U said u had 2 other video cards, first, see if either one of them will work. If that does not work, it could be the slot in the mother board, try an other X16 slot. but honestly to me it sounds like the mother board is not working if u have a speaker plugged into it and assuming the speaker is working because normally there would be beeps if the motherboard is not sending a video signal.
Hey, so I have an OCZ ZT 750 and its one of the units which runs 100% fan noise when ever im doing anything that requires the GPU, ive seen you can run the fan into a molex with a resistor to keep it constant, but what I want to do is, run it to my fan controller, just so I can ramp the fan up if needed, rather than nailing down the performance.
What I found is the fan is a 2 Pin connector, but fan controllers run 3 pins, am I able to run the 2 pin into the 3 pin on the fan controller and have control over it, or does the 3rd pin need to be connected for it to work?
I have a very strange problem with my sound card and Here is the details ....
My sound Card was working well the day before ...I was just recording from line in and running the audio recorded from line in and no problems occurred ...
Next Day I found that there is no sound and the speaker and the line in and microphone all not working and showing that they were "Not Plugged In"
I tried to reinstall the driver and I even tried to reinstall the windows But this was useless . I also installed the new driver but didn't work
the sound manager showing that they are working fine but ther are not plugged in
and the weird thing is that the optical port "which is part of the sound card " is working fine this means that the sound card isn't faulty or burnt out ??
this is the picture
please Help me .........
thanks in advance
Is it that you have selected Digital Audio (S/PDIF) as 'default'. so the speakers cannot be, at the same time.
Right click on 'Speakers' icon, is there an 'Enable' option?
My old computer is crapping out and yes I know I need a new one. But in the meantime, it is telling me I have no soundcard. I am attaching my dxdiag report... Please help...
Go to device manager and check if there is a yellow exclamation mark in there.
I have a sennheiser HD 202 and I am not able to hear any sound from the right side. I have to hold the cable in a position rhen it works. So what shall do now? Is there any chance of bringing it to normal state?
It's probably one of the wires inside the headphone lead has broken.
Does the same problem happen on all devices you plug the headphones into?
Or just one thing, say your PC for instance? (could it be a laptop headphone socket?)
If the problem is with all devices, ipods, pc's etc, then it's the headphone lead broken inside. If you can solder small wires and parts, you could change the lead yourself, but if the headphones are less than a year old you should return them under guarantee.
Hello I have a touchsmart 300 and it has no sound from the speakers or headphone jack. I have tried the troubleshoot thing and it dont recognize anything wrong with them. please help. ive tried updating the driver and it says it is updated. so lost. thanks.
Did your pc have working sound when new?
Check the volume level, it's easy to turn it right down or mute it.
Check if the speakers are selected by going to the speaker icon in tray near the current time.
Right click on speaker icon, choose 'playback devices'.
A new box appears, with a speaker and it should have a green tick over it.
Right click on the icon and choose the option 'test', you should hear audio tones.
If you don't have a green tick, right click on icon and choose 'enable'.
I just finished assembling my first build. At first it turned on without a hitch, was able to install windows and a few drivers.
I had to restart a few times, which went fine for the first few times, and then it just didn't boot back up. The power button doesn't do anything, the fans don't start, nothing happens.
When I jump the psu, all the fans start, so I'm thinking the issue must be with the mobo..
Here's a list of all the parts I'm using : http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/JFVvD3
First, are any wires touching that might be causing a short such as a wire touching the back of the mobo? Second, I had something similar happen to me a few years ago with a new build. There is a tried and true though often tedious way that can help diagnose possible issues.
1. Remove all hardware except for one RAM stick from the motherboard and this includes Sata and fan connections to peripherals such as your SSD, etc,
2. Now see if the system boots with only the one RAM stick. If it boots then shut down add the second stick of RAM and then reboot. If it boots then repeat by adding a piece at a time.
3. If is doesn't boot then it is either your mobo or your power supply. Also, check to see if your heat sink is seated correctly.
BTW, nice little system there.
My brothers schoolwork laptop is frozen the problem occured like 2 days ago were the laptop seemed to be freezing for a couple of minutes and now when he trys to switch it on
Bios is not booting up.
and the only options he gets is launch in repair safe mode and start windows normally. which end up both the same in a black screen and a little black cursor with nothing to do but move the cursor.
after this happened my first reaction was for a complete format so I tried to install him a new copy of windows but my bootable device isnt even being recognized by the system it always ends up in the same screen for the windows startup.
edit ok so I dug a little more.psh..never had a laptop and found out the bios is on the asus logo screen.....well anyhow I booted up the system from the pendrive and the result is always the same the black screen with cursor only
The laptops hard drive has failed...
I've recently built a new computer for myself and has been running perfect for a few months. A couple days ago whilst gaming/browsing my monitor went into power safe mode and shortly after my computer shut off, I tried to start up again only to have the same problem occur , the only old parts were a graphics card and psu, I just got in a new gpu and installed it successfully. Same problem occurs. All fans are running properly including the heatsink , processor core temps are around 39 , everything seems to be running ok? Thoughts?
Check event viewer to see why it shut down.
Hi I didn't know where to post this
my internet speed been groin crazy
its goes fine then at some point all the speed drop the lights flickers
only in wifi tho
I called my ISP they said it the signals from the wireless phone
called my friend he says its signals from other routers * I live in a building around 16 ap 4 per floor*
both said to connect via either
a lot of my usage is by phone so I use wifi
any one have any solution for it ?
Eliminate the possibilities.
Turn off the wifi, connect to router via cable only. Is it still slowing down? If yes, it's something related to wireless. Then continue troubleshooting.
My PC stops producing sound after 15 minutes or so when I turn it on I tried refreshing it but still no good.It is a sony Vaio windous 8
It may be an issue with either the hardware or the drivers. Let's try updating the driver first. Can you take a screenshot of what is under the "Sound, video, and game controller" section in the device manager? You can access the device manager by going to the start menu and searching for "Device Manager".
Hello I am new but methods laptop to all it No known and sound fix fail on I find this community to be very informative and friendly so I decided to give it a go I tried several other forums they all fail to find a solution No sound on laptop and all known methods fail to fix it to my problem First off let me fill you in on what the situation is I bought a new HDD for my laptop because the last one got corrupted and I had to change it So I got the new one It was completely fresh out of the shop so I went and installed windows ultimate x and everything was great until my sound mysteriously dissappeared I didn t panic and I went and installed some proper drivers like I always do when this happens I got them from my laptop s brand site and it was the exact match for my sound device so I am sure my drivers are correct And it fixed it for like minutes and then it went off again I restarted the laptop - sound got back - minutes later boom no sound again A restart fixed and so on and so on Basicly a restart fixes it but it is unbearable to have to restart your laptop every minutes I tried restarting the audio service from the quot services msc quot that worked too for like minutes and with every next restart it worked less and less efficient when it got to the point that when I restart the service the audio dissappears again in a few seconds So far I tried basicly anything and nothing worked The thing that bothers me is that a restart service restart fixes it Why is that That makes me think it is not a hardware problem and it is something to do with the software Oh yeah and I considered the OS to be a corrupted install But it s not I tried putting on a new one and it s the same thing And the audio ports are fine too The default sound device is correct too and I even see the green bar going up and down when playing music but I just don t hear any sound That s it I think but I may be leaving some other method I tried out so please tell me your opinions Thank you in advance and have a nice day P S System restore does not work since this started from the very first log in the OS There is nothing I can restore back to And even if I did it would stop minutes after that so nbsp
Go into the properties for the audio service.
Make sure it's set to automatic startup.
Go to 'Recovery' tab. Set the drop-downs to 'Restart the Service'.
Recently sound has not been coming through my speakers, so I tried to plug in headphones and headset but no further luck. I then went into control panel then sound and check the settings on my playback and nothing was touched or muted etc. I then went to the Speakers and Headphones in sound right clicked and pressed test and it said "The device is being used by another application. Please close any devices that are playing through this device." but no other applications that I could find that would be using it. My prediction is that having no internet protection for a while and downloading off the internet has caused a virus to cause my audio to become mute, if this is so how would I be able to find this application causing it. AVG isnt picking it up.
Broni, from the Virus and Malware Removal forum doesn't think it is malware related.
Just recently, my laptop suddenly became mute. This occurred while I was watching a video. My laptop put itself to hibernation or something, because it was running out of battery life. After I recontinued my session, I had no sound at all. I've tried several attempts to fix this, but to no avail. When I plug in my earphones and try to hear from them, they work perfectly fine, but when I unplug them, everything becomes mute.
If anyone can, please help.
I have a Toshiba Satellite A505-S6005 with Windows 7 64-bit.
Attached to this post is a summary generated by CPUID PC-Wizard.
With your headphones unplugged, does your volume meter in the tray icon area (bottom right) indicate volume at a reasonable level? Sounds like the drivers are working OK, might be something simple hopefully.
I have recently built a desktop computer, that had minor issues that I had eventually worked around or found a solution to. This issue is an exception. When I first used my computer, everything was fine with sound, until I found that my graphics card was not inserted correctly, and I was running with terrible resolution. After fixing this issue, I had no sound. This was about 10 months ago. On and off throughout this period I began to try and fix this issue, by disconnected and uninstalling my GPU. I launched skype and trying calling someone, but it alerted me that my sound card was missing. I know this is not true, so I have 3 main theories: 1. The sound card was fried (not likely). 2. My graphics card audio overrode the onboard audio, 3. The two (GPU and sound card) were operating on the same frequency. As I have said before, I had sound before I re-installed my graphics card, so I would either appreciate a solution to switch back to onboard audio, or a way to use both somehow.
Specs: Motherboard: ASUS P8z77
Graphics Card: Nvida Ge Force 670
Processor: Intel i7 core.
Please respond, this issue has been pressing me for almost a year, and I would really like it to be resolved.
Hi, whenever I play movies on Blu Ray or DVD, from my PS3, the levels are always off to me. The effects and music are always really loud while the dialogue is very quiet. I find myself having to turn it way up during scenes with a lot of talking then having to dive for the mute button when any action scenes come up before my neighbours bang on the door.
Does anyone know how to fix this issue only by going through the settings ??
What is the sound coming out of? If it's anything short of a 3-channel system (Left, right, centre) then you're gonna have a hard time hearing the talking on any movie. It's just how the *****s mix the audio, unfortunately.
My mother in law gave me her old computer because it would start for a few seconds then stop and continue to repeat the process until she unplugged it. I only wanted it for the extra hard drive. After installing the hard drive into my computer (wanting to format it then clone it since it is larger than the one I currently have) it caused my computer to start and stop even being set as a secondary or slave. If I completely unhook it from my computer and start it up again, My normal set up works fine. Any ideas about what could cause this?
There is only one answer, the drive has gone bad. Chances are the rest of the machine may still be good.
Will the old machine attempt to boot without a drive? Does it come up to a boot drive not found error? If it does, the HDD was the whole trouble.
When I connect my headset to the front it I receive msg. that I connect mic, and I'm sure that I connect it in the right way,when I connect it in the green one in the back it says that I connected it in the orange ! I had this problems after bios update!
Verify that you used the correct bios update. You could have accidentally installed a bios meant for a similar model computer that just happens to mostly work for yours. If that is not the case, you could always try to revert back to an older bios to see if that fixes the problem.
First of all hello from a new user, I have a problem with my computer but I need help to nail it down to one part (I think it's the graphics card, but who am I to tell).
A friend of mine said people over here are very nice and competent so why not try to get help here.
Long story short, I played a game, Velvet Assassin, that is rather buggy (I.e. it didn't let me change the resolution to my native 1680x1050).
After some time the screen started flickering in complete white with some color bars here and there. I thought it was another bug on newer systems and changed the resolution; the problem seemed resolved.
Until my little brother started to play Forge of Empires, that little browser game, where the problem again occured at an even faster rate.
I hope you can help me, I made a short video of the issue, I know it's not of best quality, but maybe it helps.
Thank you in advance
Have you tried updating your drivers? Also could you please post the make and model of your laptop /desktop and the system specs.
I'm really struggling here. I've just purchased some Corsair DDR3 Vengeance Pro Series Red DDR3 Memory with the Specs CAS 12-13-13-35, 1.65V at 2666MHz. I got 2 sets (2x4GB per set, 16GB overall, all 4 slots are occupied). When I choose the XMP profile, the computer fails to post, it resets and then tells me "overclock failed". To get it to boot I set the speed to 2133MHz and it is now stable.
MoBo is an Asus Maximus Vi Hero (Z87) and a Haswell Core i7 4770K with a H60 closed loop on it.
Power supply is a Corsair AX750.
My question is, why can I not hit the advertised speed of 2666MHz? Do I need to send more voltage through them?
Thanks for your help in advance.
Ok, so I just recently upgraded to a Cat6 cord, I needed a longer cord and the only ones being sold where the Cat6 so I had to get it. Before I installed it, I had a Cat5E, my speed listing was about 3.8mbps give or take.. yeah crappy verizon DSL. But after hooking up the Cat6, I'm now getting about 1.2mbps. I'm rather confused on this, cause from what I read and what I know, that shouldn't cause my speed to dive bomb. And I know it's dive bombed even without the speed test, cause everythings slowed down, loading webpages, gaming, it's all miserably slow. So, I'm at a loss, did I somehow install it wrong? Did I not appease some Tech god before doing it right? Or, perhaps a faulty line?
Temporarily use the 5e cable again? See if it goes back to previous speed.
My guess would be this should not happen. The cable I would think is sort of a go or no go situation, meaning it works or it doesn't. I'm sure you can have cables with some 'damage' that work but at reduced capacity, but 5e and 6 should be capable of doing 1000Mbps, so when you are talking about a decline from 3.8 to 1.2 that is minuscule compared to what the cable should be capable of, so I really doubt the cable is at fault. Just a weird coincidence based on the information you've given us.
Hey guys Just got my new Sound Blaster Everything phenomenal Blaster sounds videos Youtube Sound Z: except Z in the mail this morning After some research I found that I Sound Blaster Z: Everything sounds phenomenal except Youtube videos should set Windows Sound settings to Speakers non-full range in order to best utilize the SB drivers I use a pair of Razer Carcharias stereo headset I don Sound Blaster Z: Everything sounds phenomenal except Youtube videos t have speakers Supposedly by doing this and turning on SBX Surround I ll get simulated surround in games and listen to stereo music just fine simply by turning off SBX Surround when doing so Well games sound great with simulated surround FLACs stored on my computer sound great and crisp no matter what Windows is set to Stereo or BUT Youtube videos sound awful In order to get Youtube videos to sound good I need to go into Windows CP and set the sound options to Stereo Speakers Once I do it goes back to sounding great again It should be noted that I only use Youtube for music As unlikely as it may sound YT is an amazing resource for classical music You can find a lot of performances by different conductors orchestras or soloists if a solo piece and Sound Blaster Z: Everything sounds phenomenal except Youtube videos you can create your own playlists It s kind of a big deal to me Everything else about the card is amazing Windows x Latest Firefox Latest Creative drivers Jan as of this post Problem The sound loses clarity it becomes muddy and the bass is way over the top If I crank the volume too high the sound becomes distorted Not pleasant at all This doesn t happen in the slightest with music stored on my hard drive only YT nbsp
The behavior that you explained can be fixed if you set the adobe flash player to 'follow' your soundcard settings. If you're on 64-bit windows, go to:
Open MMS.CFG and add this line:
Worked perfectly for my 5.1 setup. Youtube audio was previously stuck on its own upmix (a.k.a simulated surround) settings and ignored my soundcard settings.
My dad was putting some paper into his printer and had apparently put the paper in too far. When he tried to print something it jammed up and the printer had abruptly shut off. I have tried leaving it unplugged for a while and plugging it back in however, the printer WILL NOT turn back on at all.
As the topic says, my computer doesn't detect my on-board sound card. It all started when I tried to install new audio drivers from manufacturers page, but the next day when I booted PC up there were no sound. In Device Manager, under Sounds, game,.. controllers tab sit 4-5 High Definition Audio Devices. Here's pic:
Then tried re-installing original audio drivers from motherboard CD, enabling/disabling On-Board HD Audio in BIOS but still no luck.
My Audio Device is VIA VT1705.
DxDiag shows that no sound card was found.
This is what is shown in Playback Devices tab:
But I have no HDMI kind audio devices..
How to make my system recognize my sound card?
I've bought a Sound Blaster Recon 3D a year ago.
It works awsome ! But this morning it was off the light and cannot work while plug in any computers.
I am very bored and nervous, I think it was broken down and cannot work anymore.
Am I right ?
Please say NO and help me
Thank you very much.
Hello My sound chip on my board was blew for no reason bad thing only being a month old bored and I am not waiting days to rma it and for me to get it back anyway I managed to pick up a old sound card not sure on the model Motherboard? Work. Not Maybe Did Sound Card that worked fine for three days then stopped outputing audio so I bought a sound card intex cmi that did not have the bit wndows dirvers and everytime I turned the computer off the machine would not detect the card I then I have to press the reset button or turn the system a few times to get the card to be recognized again and I could not also find the drivers for the OS Sound Card Did Not Work. Maybe Motherboard? I checked at the back of the cards box and it says bit pci bus master What does the mean could that be that the card was not compatible for the stystem or could it be the motherboard I tried a nvidia video card in the Sound Card Did Not Work. Maybe Motherboard? PCI-E slot and the card works fine with no faults The sound card was using the PCI slot and I tried every PCI slot My Motherboard asrock fm a x extreme Thanks nbsp
I tested in a very old card from 2001 or 2004 something like that and it appears there's power going through the card so that's the plus.
Maybe it's because I'm using old crap and the sound card model is old?
Hi gang. My usb modem HAS to be unplugged then plugged in for it to work?
Even if PC is off when I do this it will automatically start/connect when windows(7) loads and will work normally. If I don't do this I can not get it to work?
'device mngr' shows it as an 'unknown device'?
I have reinstalled it to no avail.
Are you talking about a modem or a usb network adapter?
Hello. my rig is
fx 4100 4.53ghz
amd r9 270
corsair 600w gs600 gaming series psu
ocz vertex 3 90gb boot drive
240gb samsung 840 ssd
500 gb seagate hdd
1866mhz kingston hyperx ram
asus sabertooth fx990 r2.0
so my issue is this. I can overclock the r9 just fine, run benchmarks and whatnot. everything runs stable. I have clocked it as far as 1100 core and 1600 memory. everything ran stable on heaven and 3dmark vantage and things like msi kombustor to check for stability. as soon as I went into a game, it went bsod. so I figured ok. oc too high. I dropped it abit, tried again. same result. I continued reducing the core and memory till it went down to stock, and then it runs stable. any increase in core or memory by even 1 mhz, will cause it to crash in game. drivers are all up to date, bios, things like that all up to date. any suggestions as to why games don't like it? its multiple games as well. me1, 2, 3, swtor, wow etc. thanks
Well if the overclock if causing the issue, chances are it can seem stable but then turn out to not be because a certain area is stressed more than on benchmarks or other games. Normally I would suggest working on bumping up the core clock first before memory and then checking stability because thats the easiest part to focus on at first. Memory can cause distortions and other issues like a BSOD just because you stressed it just enough to cause an issue.
Try moving just the core clocks and voltage up first, then work on the memory once you have that stable.
I'm having an issue connecting to my wireless network with my computer. Things were working fine until a few weeks ago when the wifi on my computer stopped connecting; now I can only get internet through a wired connection (although the fact I can do this is strange to me). My rooommate is not having any issues with the wireless whatsoever. I have a fairly new acer aspire s7 which has no difficulties connecting to any other wireless network while I am at campus or have gone home for the weekend. I'm at a loss as to how to fix this issue as it has become impossible to do any form of research while I am at home. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Posibilities are your wireless signal is not in range or the wireless router is full of user who are connected to it, or it surpasses the user's limit.. how many user's has wifi connected to the wireless router?
PSU issue I think
heres what it is when I first installed this card (had a 500w antec psu) the comp was fine till I played diablo and poof shut off the comp via psu , so decide to get a thermaltake 2 600w and hook tht up now ot plays for a longer time
but does the same thing,I took the card back and got a new one of the same
same thing happens , so I decided to try a different approach and I have a psu I modded for xbox 360 tht is wired to stay on and I ran the card powered by tht and was able to play for hours and only 2 times it shut that psu off suggestions or now a psu tht doesnt get fooled so easy or what is really going on...lol thank you
If you got a different video card and a different PSU, chances are there is something else wrong unless you got very unlucky and got another bad part from one of the two things swapped out.
My guess would be one of the following just from one you said:
The new PSU is bad as well
The CPU is overheating and shutting off
GPU could be overheating and shutting off (Though this is unlikely)
Those are just a few things to check, I would go into the bios and see what temp the CPU is running at while in there and decide if its running above what it should be. If that's not the issue I would try returning the PSU for a different one and see if that fixes the issue. Though the fact that the machine shuts off with 3 different PSU's points to a different part being an issue.
What command do I type in Command Prompt if I want to use Last Known Good configuration
Boot into Safe Mode (F8), that's where the option is located
I am having a issue with my new router (Tenda W150D Router), its not giving me access for uploading any files through wi fi on my iphone 5s using app (Wireless Drive), even I tried the same with vlc upload feature in iphone still it doesnt work......
I think the issue is with the firewall in the router which I cannot access normally from the router setup...
guys pls help.. any comments are welcome
Hmm; accessing a website is an outbound action thru the firewall on port 80.
A site with file uploading uses the same port 80 as normally used for surfing the web.
We need more data to analyze the problem
?What URL are you accessing for the upload?
from this "iphone 5s using app (Wireless Drive)", I assume the data moves this way:
ISP==router -- wifi to your 5S: using an app called Wireless Drive?can you confirm this please?
?are you sure you're accessing the router and NOT attempting upload via the cellular connection?
Hello, I'm new here. I'm trying to fix my sons Asus laptop. it won't connect wirelessly but will connect via ethernet cable. device manager has exclamation point beside network controller. I cannot download drivers for it. can you help?
"I cannot download drivers for it"... Why? Can you get the driver from here:
If the driver won't install, the Wifi card may be bad... Something that doesn't happen very often
Hey guys I had some contractors doing some work on my house today and they needed to shut the circuit off to the room my computer was in The computer was on at the time so it shut off when the power was cut Now it won t go back on Power button does nothing at all and I don t know if it s the power supply mobo or switch I ve got a power supply tester which causes my computers fans to start up when it s plugged in so the power supply does respond not Power mobo button working... issue? The results are in the attached file It shows LL which means to low to register voltage for the - V line I honestly don t know if I even have that line so I don t know if that s bad I attached the label on my power supply too Would Power button not working... mobo issue? no voltage cause a computer to completely not respond Because the fans DO start up when the power supply tester is plugged in I don t think the switch is the problem because I tried to short the power switch jumpers with a paper clip and nothing happened I also took the CMOS battery out for a while and then tried it again and that didn t work Any ideas on whether I need a mobo or a power supply I don t have an extra PSU around to test with but I may try to find one before ordering a new mobo thanks in advance -mike nbsp
Not the switch. Could be the motherboard or PSU, but I don't have any good insight.
I would unplug the PSU and flip the 120/240V switch to 240V, then flip it back before plugging it in. To me, this doesn't make any logical sense, but over about 16 years of playing with PCs I have seen it work twice.
Just bought thermal take challenger ultimate keyboard and having a problem when when I plugin the keyboard it override the windows sound and goes off, tried with 2 pcs win 7 and win 8 same thing no sound
want a solution
Got the same problem..
I've been having issues with getting a descent/loud sound from my microphone. The audio is at 100% and microphone boost is at 20db. Still really low.
Not sure if it has anything to do with my soundcard. The sound works fine if I have the mic in my mouth, except I don't want to have it in my mouth whenever I need to speak. (skype etc) Any solutions?
Has this mic worked better in the past or has it always sounded low? I assume you want to use your motherboard's built-in Realtek audio chip for the mic, so make sure that Realtek is the default device for playback and recording in Control Panel/Sound, and check all settings there and in Realtek control panel. Also get the latest driver for your Realtek ALC xxx. The driver may have been replaced by a generic Windows driver - check for driver author and version in Device Manager.
Can processor speed be increased without changing or removing any harddware
Depends on your specs and what you mean by increase.
Some processors are unlocked and can be over-clocked by increasing the processor frequency multiplier (which is multiples of the system bus frequency). This only effects the stability of the processor if clocked to high.
Many systems even if the processor is not unlocked, can still be overclocked by increasing the system bus frequency. Changing this frequency effects everything in the system, which can cause system instability with anything.
System builders will lock both system bus and frequency multiplier, by customizing the system BIOS. Limiting the BIOS is the number one reason, I do not like prebuilt systems.
I bought steelseries siberia v2 non USB and when I got them they haven't been working. Microphone or sound. They do work on my ipod at least! I'm running windows 8. When I first plug them in, my computer doesn't recognize them. To at least get SOMETHING to recognize, I have to go into my realtek audio driver control panel, and CHECK [disable front jack detection]. After I check that, my computer recognizes a (SPEAKERS) and (MICROPHONE) from realtek, both of which play nothing. I have tried reinstalling drivers, reverting drivers, new drivers, I have tried plugging into different jacks, I have tried making it my default device, I have tried everything I can think of. Can you help me
So my Packard Bell Easy Note MX37-S-200 has suddenly started making persistent " Crackling " and " Popping" noises from the moment I boot it. The noise is coming from the speakers and the sound is now distorted. I have very recently got it back from the repair shop after having my AC jack replaced... I would really like to rule everything out before I start pointing fingers at the repair guy
Things I have tried - Disabling sound driver - Noise was still there and laptop just installed it again.
Running avast scan through it - Scan picked up nothing.
Played with the sound setting - Nothing changed noise still there.
Plugged in PC speakers - Noise still coming from laptop but sound came out of the speakers fine.
I have noticed also that when the laptop first starts up the noise is louder and more spaced out. I'm wondering maybe whether it is the fan? But I don't no why the noise would be coming from the speakers.
Would really appreciate any help
My guess is that based on the information provided that the wires for the speakers have either been damaged or crossed in some way where they are touching something they shouldn't causing distortion. My advice would be to take it back and tell them whats going on and make sure to have them fix it for free if they opened it and caused this problem.
I just installed a GTX 760 into my computer which previously had an AMD card. After I installed the card, my Realtek HD Audio Manager decided to stop working.
When I plug audio devices in, it no longer has a window pop up alerting me that I've plugged something in. After opening Realtek HD I saw that nothing plugged in was being detected, except for DIGITAL. Picture below is what I see.
In Control Panel -> Hardware and Sound -> Sound, it says nothing is plugged in in both Playback and Recording except Realtek Digital Output. I can't set anything as default because it is greyed out.
I've tried restarting, reinstalling the drivers(via Device Manager), a system restore to when it was working, nothing has worked so far.
I'm running Windows 7.
Wondering what is wrong? Sound was working fine before I installed the card.
Recently, I need more speed for my computer.
Basically I want upgrade hardware but I am not expert: I need some advice.
I am using my computer for Computer Animation: Mostly Autodesk Maya.
I am in the middle of learning Animation Part and realize if I am going to use MentalRay with Animation,
I have to wait a long time [I believe].
Currently my computer's spec:
ASRock P67 EXTREME 4
8GB of RAM
GTX 560TI of 1GB
Which hardware should upgrade ?
Hi all I m hoping you might be able to guide me in diagnosing what the problem is with my editing workstation Specs Microsoft Windows Professional -bit SP CPU Intel Core i GHz C RAM GB Triple-Channel DDR MHz - - - Motherboard Gigabyte Technology Co Ltd X A-UD Socket C Graphics MB GeForce GTX EVGA C Hard Drives GB Western Digital WDC WD HLHX- JJPV SATA C GB Seamus SATA GB Western Digital WDC WD EARS- Z B SCSI Disk Device SATA C Optical Drives PIONEER DVD-RW DVR- D ATA Device have attached rest of Speccy TXT file I ve had a range of problems from random BSOD to general instability slow downs rebuild, PC issue etc) numerous Help diagnosing (after reinstalls, to very slow internet to HDMI output of video card not working OCCT tests said occt core over maximum value I have formatted and reinstalled Windows twice tested no problems and even reseated ram - which seemed to work for a time Help diagnosing PC issue (after numerous reinstalls, rebuild, etc) When problems started again I bit the bullet and paid someone to check it rebuild update BIOS and reinstall Windows which AGAIN seemed to fix the problems for a time this was doubtless a waste of time and money It s caused so much grief that I d move on and buy an entirely new machine - but I m too stubborn I want to get to the bottom of the hardware issue which is hopefully a component that needs to be upgraded anyway and can get on with my life So I m hoping people can give me guidance to run tests and diagnose exactly what the hell is broken in this box Thanks in advance Morgan nbsphttp://www.techspot.com/community/topics/help-diagnosing-pc-issue-after-numerous-reinstalls-rebuild-etc.200246/
Is it normal for the fan speed on my Radeon 4800 to be 0 when the card temperature is 71 degrees C?
Download MSI Afterburner, see if you can manually change the fan speed.
I have a problem with a batch of Dell optiplex 980's, for some reason the Main boards fail at a alarming rate.
According to Dell it is the memory controller that fails.
Error Lights 1,3,4 are on nothing on screen, power led solid blue about 10 error beeps!
Dell tech replaced the main boards and all is fine for a while but same problem persists.
Also according to Dell level 6 tech, it could be over heating, I had some fun proving them wrong, two PC's sealed in a box , hammering them, Temp between 85 Celsius - 90 Celsius in the sealed enclosure, optical drive started melting, cooled the PC's for a day and powered back on, no problems!!
Does any one out there maybe have a issue similar to this on the optiplex 980, main board failures?
Dell Optiplex 980 Lights 134 on no screen
Yes I have exactly the same problem. Turned PC on this morning lights 134 on plus blue power light but no screen at all. Still under warranty, phoning dell in the morning - I will keep you posted
After Broni s series of attempts to help me in THIS THREAD he suggested that I may have a video chip or motherboard issue NOTE I am on issue motherboard Possible a Chromebook now and am trying to clean my fiance s laptop He just got it back from a local tech shop on windows reinstall - he downloaded some nasty viruses via email attachments we believe BAD BAD BOY and I tried to reinstall windows on my own times but the acer discs would not complete the reinstall so we took it to the shop By he d managed to get reinfected but I don t know if it was residual from the previous infection My latest thread to him following his instructions to go into System Recovery mode was After some Googling re not being able to start the Acer the only way I could figure Possible motherboard issue out how to get past the screen with several vertical lines comprised of the little horizontal lines like my earlier video shows let s call it my HVLinePattern for shorthand was to take out battery for over minutes while unplugged the whole time press down power for seconds plug back in reboot and I could F and F but NOT F At some point I got a single set of short beeps cpu failure wild guess per http www fixya com support t -acer aspire laptop problems booting I cannot seem to reproduce these beeps tho I tried to let the laptop Possible motherboard issue start up in regular mode and kept looping the acer logo with options to F or F at the bottom vs a brief flash of black screen until I powered it down with the power button I rebooted tried to F and got what I interpret to be long short beeps immediately followed by long short beeps immediately followed by long short beeps immediately followed by the HVLinePattern screen I powered down and rebooted then hit F chose boot by disc took a screenshot but it s in video format oops can add later if necessary hit F and changed to boot order screenshot on my google drive -bit ly foRTDf put my windows install disc in the drive recovery disc of crossed my fingers rebooted got what I interpret to be long short beeps immediately followed by long short beeps immediately followed by long short beeps immediately followed by the HVLinePattern screen I then took out battery for over minutes while unplugged the whole time pressed down power for seconds plugged back in rebooted and long short beeps immediately followed by long short beeps immediately followed by long short beepsimmediately followed by the HVLinePattern screen I rebooted a few times and shot a little video LINK ON YOUTUBE while I observed the same pattern of beeping Riveting stuff Click to expand As I expressed to Broni I m not terribly optimistic we ve already began the process of shopping for a replacement Now that I know the beeps have a significance I m a bit agitated that the tech shop ignored the HVLinePattern screen and the beeps they likely also heard Oh well At any rate if you have any insights I d be so very appreciative If not I truly understand that my fiance managed to do too much damage by not getting help quickly enough and or by clicking on an especially malicious piece of malware We just hope we can take steps to avoid it again in the future Thank you nbsp
Sorry! must've been half asleep when I posted this under MOBILE COMPUTING ... meant to put it in PROCESSORS AND MOTHERBOARDS and just did so. If there's a way I can delete my original post above, let me know so I can learn the RIGHT WAY to take advantage of this valuable resource.
Moderator note: Irwynn, I moved your post here to a more appropriate subject forum IMO.
I have a 2TB My Book Live that I and my housemates use to store media. Initially I was the primary contributor to the drive, and at that time there were no issues. Eventually, someone else began adding files to the server. Since then, any folder that someone else has added files to cannot be accessed by me unless I am logged in as a guest. If I log in as an administrator the folders show up but are greyed out. This only happened with one user. I am running a Mac, and they were using Windows, but other Windows users have added files without causing this issue. I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this, and if anyone knows of a workaround other than always logging out as administrator when I want to access those folders.
Thanks for any help
This appears to be an issue on how the drive was formatted and hard disk permissions. Before I go through a bunch of steps to fix, since this is an older post, is this still an issue or have you resolved it?!
Post back please.
OK, so I have a stable network connection through my modem at all times and of which is currently hard wired to my desk top. Every hour or so I seem to lose connection to the internet through my pc but the modem still shows a stable signal (online light stays on) I run the trouble shooter for internet and get nothing most times so I end up having to re-boot the pc to get connection back. I'm not the most tech savy so any suggestions on how to get this fixed step by step instructions would be VERY helpful !
First I would try replacing the Ethernet cable being used to connect the modem & PC. Next, if there are other "LAN" ports in the modem, plug into a different port. After that I would try pinging the default gateway (ip address of the modem) with an infinite ping and watch to see if there are dropped packets. if there are multiple dropped packets, then it could be a bad network card in the PC or a bad port in the modem.
to infinite ping, open the command prompt and type the following:
ping <ip address of modem> -t (c:\ping 192.168.1.1 -t)
to make the ping stop press: Control C look at the results and see if you have dropped packets. Here's a look at mine after 10 pings
C:\>ping 192.168.10.1 -t
Pinging 192.168.10.1 with 32 bytes of data:
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.10.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Ping statistics for 192.168.10.1:
Packets: Sent = 10, Received = 10, Lost = 0 (0% loss),
Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:
Minimum = 0ms, Maximum = 0ms, Average = 0ms
Hope this helps, post back!!
I have a SONY Handycam that uses MP120 8mm Video Cassettes. I used this Handycam to tape home videos. When I use the playback feature on the Handycam it seems as if it is playing back in a slower speed. When I connect the Handycam to my computer and play back, it does the same thing. It is as if the camera was recording at a wrong speed. Is there any way I can control the speed of the video camera via computer, so that I can get the home videos transferred to DVD?
So I just installed my 8350 about two days ago and I just found out that it isn't running to its full potential. It's running at 2812 MHz. when it should be running at at least 4k MHz. I tried running my game to see if it will go up and maybe its just idle to save power but that did not work. Then I went into my bios and turned off all my C-State (c1e, c6 are the only two I have). And that did not do the trick and I have ran into a brick wall. Please help me.
I have 3 possible solutions to the issue: 1) The CPU is flawed. 2) You are in a power saving Windows state. 3) Your CPU is running hot, which will throttle its speed to something lower.
In order to check whether your PC is in a power saving mode, go to the start menu and type in "power options". Choose the one listed under "control panel". Once you click it, it should bring up a window that tells you what power state you are in. Choose the "Balanced" plan if it is in power saving mode and see if that helps.
Secondly, download and run RealTemp and tell me what the CPU temperature is at idle and when gaming.
I am new to upgrading my PC, but I have some experienced friends and I have stumped them all with my issue. I installed a new MSI Twin Frozr III R7850 graphics card in my HP Pavillion Desktop, I have a PCIe x16 2.0 and the card uses 3.0, however from research that should not be my problem. I installed the card and two startups in a row I got 8 1 second beeps. On the third startup however I got nothing, it just started up, no picture and obviously not loading any programing, but no beeping. I have tried the HDMI and DVI ports that the graphics card uses and I still have nothing. My computer, however, runs perfectly fine when I do not have this new graphics card powered. Am I doing something wrong, or is my card just dead?
Well ill go through a few basic things:
First did you hook up both 6 pin connectors?
Second what video card was installed previously, if it was NVidia, did you remove the previous drivers.
Third, have you tried different slots on the motherboard for testing, also does the motherboard have onboard video.
Try these solutions and lets go from there.
I'm having an issue with the keyboard for my Toshiba Satellite P775-S7320. Put plainly, keys have started triggering other keys, as if both keys were pressed at the same time. Nothing was spilled on the keyboard, but now, A and Tilde trigger one another, and the same for 1 and 2, Q and S, W and Tab, X and Capslock. The only exception to this is Z and \. Z will trigger \, but \ will not trigger Z. I've popped off the keys and cleaned them with compressed air, I've rebooted my computer several times, and am unsure of where to go from here.
Try hitting the NUM LK/SCRN LK key
Acer travelmate Model BY Operating system Windows XP wth servicepack Hi After being reinstalled windows xp the sound of my laptop has been disabled The icon of sound in the right bottom of the screen has been gone And now I got different sound errors sometimes when I go to - start all programs accessries entertainment volume control and then disabled is Sound click I got the error that quot there is no active mixer device avaiable On control panel when I click on sound and audio devices I found all the options related to Sound is disabled sound are being disabled I also checked out the harware section on MY Comuter the sounds drivers are there but something goes wrong Sound is disabled with respect to that I have already downloaded audio vga and someother drivers from us acer com ac en us content drivers and installed them but the problem is still there that is the sound is disabled I would really appreciate on this forum if I can get the solution from someone with respect to that sound problem I am facing I can t want to open my laptop s harware because I cant do that BinNyen nbsp
Well, considering the fact that XP expires http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/enterprise/endofsupport.aspx
You're probably better off going to W7 or W8.
I have a Dell Latitude D620 laptop that I bought in 2006 and it runs EXTREMELY slow, whether I am on the Internet or just doing basic tasks in Windows or MS Office. It has Windows XP, some basic software (like MS Office), and only a few files (because the hard drive crashed last year, so I only put a few files back on it, after installing the new hard drive). I know it's relatively old, but is there ANYTHING I can do to increase the speed of the computer, without buying additional memory? Any help I can get with increasing the speed will be greatly appreciated.
Also, I don't know if this is a different issue, but sometimes the laptop seems to get too hot (at the bottom) after being on for too long.
Thanks in advance.
First, make sure your vents are clear of dust. Heat can cause all kinds of issues. Do you have a cooling pad?
Second, have you scanned for infections?
Hello, I have a aspire 1430G desktop that has an AMD E-450 APU and I recently upgraded the PSU to support my also recently gained Gigabyte GT610. When I place the GT610 into its PCI slot and turn it on I get a black screen that says no input detected. When I remove the graphics card my computer runs like normal, and now im stuck with not a clue in the world of what to do to get the GT610 to work with my desktop. Any suggestions of what to do?
Are you connecting the monitor to the card? In order for the card to work the monitor must be connected to a port on the card.
If not the reason for the black screen is the integrated graphics is disabled when installing a dedicated graphics card.
I've been having a rather irritating problem with my NVIDIA graphics card. Ever since I installed the card, it has been outputting sound through the card instead of through my onboard audio. Since I do not want to purchase an HDMI to DVI cable to play sound through my monitor, I was wondering how to redirect the audio to play through my motherboard so I can hear sound again. I have tried resetting BIOS settings, reinstalling all drivers for sound card, motherboard, and gpu, and I have poked around 100's of forums, and tried everything. I'm even considering buying a different brand of card because this stupid thing has created so many problems.
Right click on the speaker icon in the taskbar. Select playback devices and see if you have an option other than HDMI. I have 4 HDMI ports in addition to Speakers and "Speakers" is the default device on my machine.
Just picked up a Logitech HD Pro C920 and love it. Looks great...but for some reason the audio is...weird.
It sound maybe a little 'muffled'...I don't really want to say 'choppy', but it's close.
System should be more than equipped to handle everything....
Windows 7 premium 64 bit
I know I have different USBs inside...2.0 and 3.0....but I'm not positive which is which...wondering if this would make a difference?
I'm using onboard sound instead of my old (out of date) soundcard
Really love the HD recording but I have to have better sound!
Thanks for any help
Switched to the (clearly labeled) USB 3.0 didn't notice a difference.